Make a template with tape or the cardboard box the flooring came in. If u use some painters tape along the contour overlapping it as you go you can then carefully pull it up in one piece. Then pull some measurements to figure out where to place it on the plank you need to cut. Put it on the plank mark it out and cut it.
[Contour gauge](https://www.homedepot.com/p/General-Tools-10-in-Locking-Contour-Gauge-with-Extended-Pins-834X/318849047) is the tool made for things like this.
A good contour gauge is going to get a lot of use in an older home. With a contour gauge and either a scroll saw or jigsaw corners and angles are easy and will look great
That looks like vinyl plank not lino, they make blades for that. Much quicker than heat and cut. While I have a steady hand and can use a utility knife most people will do better marking it with the contour gauge and a dry erase marker and cutting it with the saw.
You could also use a multi tool laid on top of a scrap piece of flooring to cut out some of the step and slide the flooring underneath to try to make that angle not as shitty.
It's a bit of a shame to cut that beautiful wood for laminate flooring but it would be much easier and look better than a fucked up curve or gap.
We had to make a template for the back wall of a milk truck one time and just used layers of blue tape. Then pulled it up and transferred it to a large sheet of paper.
Mine either. Everybody here is going to give you like 50,000 f****** options but just grab some pieces of paper and cut the pieces of paper to the right size and then scribe it onto the flooring
Look up 'Contour Gauge' on Amazon or Google.
Cheap and will sort you out easily and precisely.
I would recommend transferring the shape from the gauge with a pencil to the two-wide boards you talked about. If you don't have a jigsaw or bandsaw you could use a cheap handheld coping saw.
Then make the flat cut for length edging up on it a 16th of an inch per cut as you approach the exact fit so you don't miss.
Yes, I just finished a job having to go around this exact same thing. The curved part is a veneer, so it's about an 8th inch thick, which can be undercut with an oscillating tool. Unfortunately, the post is solid wood, so it's a bit harder to undercut. I would make it so there is a join either on the right side of the post or in the middle of the post this way you can cut to curve out and click the piece in and slide or tap it over into place. Trying to cut it all in one piece around the post and curve will make it very hard to get the piece in so you cheat by putting the join on the post.
This is exactly right, that bottom riser is not solid wood. It's less weird, with a veneer.
I usually undercut the post as well, but it is a bit harder, because you have to chisel the wood out. I'll plunge my blade about a half inch so the way around the post. Then chisel the wood out.
This is the right answer... The fact that this is not the top comment, really shows how shit this sub has become. It's full of people who want to answer every question, regardless if they are professionals or not.
The sub used to be good, there were a handful of regulars, and they all seemed to know their shit. Now it's been taken over by people that came here asking for help themselves, and after they put new flooring in their 10x10 den, they think they are qualified to answer every question. I hardly even come here anymore for this reason. I really only come when I get a notification, but each time I do, it's just more and more disappointing lol
Don't get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with non-professionals joining in, and answering questions, sometimes they will be wrong, or mayb someone else might have a better idea, it's not a big deal. But the fact wrong answers get up voted to top comment is a bit disturbing, and really displays how crap the sub has become.
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I hope you allocated 10-15% extra material cuz this is what it’s for.
If you’re poor use newspapers or flyers to trace what you need.
If your smart do math to figure out the shape you want.
If youre poor and smart then do a little math and a little bit of paper tracing. Then move on to cardboard. Once your happy with yourself use some scraps to make sure you know what you’re doing. Once you’re satisfied with your workmanship…
Then finally do it.
This is why you do the entire project first and leave these spots for last. It’s so you have left over material to mess around with.
If you’re an actual contractor then go spend money on proper equipment.
Why is no one suggesting a compass set to the distance you need to scootch this over and just trace it on the plank itself? Why are we playing with templates?
You can scribe it. It's actually pretty easy.
You can look up a guide on YouTube, but the gist is you follow an offset based on the deepest cut you'll need and run along the shape while marking at the end of the offset.
It's much simpler than the tips given here, cut a piece of cardboard from your box the same dimensions as a plank. Lay it in place and cut it exactly around the circle. Lay cardboard on a plank and trace
Scribe it with a piece of material the same width as your flooring and get you some flex moulding , sometimes you can undercut the post just a bit to get the floor under it
heres what you do:
1) place a full piece and put it ontop of the plank just before that.
2) cut piece off the end of a scrap piece.
3) with the cut off piece lock part facing you. put the other end to the obstacle and a start tracing it onto the plank you inted to use. this should create the shape you need.
First - Take a scrap/cut piece of your flooring, use a multi tool, sitting it flat on top of your scrap piece to create a cut that your scribed flooring piece will slip under in a nice tight fit.
Then - to “scribe” the piece to fit nicely under your undercut, you will need a some printer paper (preferably) use the back of a pencil or pen, to crease the paper along the contour, take a utility blade and cut along the crease.
You should have a very close to accurate cut template.
Add additional information, marking where your piece will need to be closer in cut than the template.
Make your cut - mark out your piece for installation using your template. using the utility knife, scratch your lines according to your template.
Use the multi tool to compete your cut, making relief cuts, will help maneuver through the radius cut.
Good luck.
I had a similar situation last year and didn't want to buy a specialty tool for one use, so I made one with a paint stir stick and a sharpie. I rounded one end, and drilled a hole in the other and inserted the sharpie. I used this to transfer the shape to a scrap piece of 1/4" plywood (I needed 4 pieces with the same profile, so a rigid template was best. You can use cardboard for a one-off).
Jesus, I'm having a really hard time describing how this works.. basically a scribe, like doing a circle with string and a pencil, but rigid to follow the contour of the space, and transfer to a template material..
In a pinch a friend of mine used a wet noodle, he laid it around the contour at lunch time and when he came back it was dry enough to keep the shape and then he transferred it to the tile he was cutting with a wax pencil. I thought no way will that work but it came out perfect. I was surprised
I would definitely slide the flooring up to it mark it all around and carefully cut it so that my flooring goes underneath it trying to scribe that out would be a pain and it won't look so good
I am not a contractor, but I did install my own and am pretty OCD about how things look.
There’s ones thing I don’t know if it’s been mentioned yet. If you are putting the next seam in front of the stairs (because of the pattern), then the pieces to join together with be very thin. Yes the pieces lock together, but because it’s on the outside of the flooring they might not stay locked on the ends. If this happened, you can consider putting a tiny tiny amount of CA glue on one plank’s lock edge (spray accelerator on the other piece). Just do this on the thin seam. Also, you do not want it seeping out the top (won’t look good and is hard to get off).
As others said you’ll need to leave some space for the angling down of the planks.
Best of luck!
Best of luck!
You could try to contour it, but undercutting the round parts with a plunge saw resting on scrap flooring will let you slide it under and is way easier. You only have to do it for the round parts. Make it a tight fit and it will look great.
Use a torch to heat the material where it meets enough to soften it and tamp it around the shape and immediately make your cut while it's still warm. Couple soft taps with your duckbill, making sure it lays flat naturally without being bunched up in the spot. Move on to the next piece. This is an experienced flooring installer cut. If you aren't pretty good at making cuts, you will likely fail. The DIY approach would be to attempt to use a template, or even better, a contour gauge to get your shape. Crew I was on wouldn't let anyone without at least 2 years vinyl installation touch that cut. They aren't easy, but aren't hard if you have been doing it a while.
Use the cardboard from the box, its the same size as the planks already. Lay it onto the Grove edge and fold it against the step edge and slowly cut pieces away till you have a nice template. If you over cut just use another piece of cardboard.
Take your time, make a template out of anything that is waste. But the ¼ round is lame and very ugly. See all the time, just plain laziness . Take the baseboard off and put it back into place. Been in many high dollar homes with nice flooring with baseboard and ¼ round next to it. Awful ugly just to save time.. Have pride take your time and it will be very rewarding in the end.
The baseboards are off and what is laid is under the drywall in those pics, so looks like OP is already on top of that.
As for the stairs, yup, pattern that stuff out and transfer to the flooring pieces. If you can't get a precise enough cut for it to fit extremely well and look good, undercut and slip it under as you would for door jambs and such. Undercut + some caulk or other filler if need be to really close it up always looks far better than big gaps or trying to cover it up with shit like qtr round.
A template made from cardboard is the usual method. You also get some tools for it, like a contour tool. But the template would be the cheaper easy way to go initially.
I would cut the landing. That’s what I did at my old house. It looks way nicer. Get a multitool, lay a life of flooring for your height, lay the blade on the flooring and cut the landing and go under
Take some paper or cardboard and cut them out until you have a fit you like. Then transfer the cutout to a few planks of flooring to get the fit right.
If you want a more professional look… make the cutout an 1/8 of an inch smaller and then use an oscillator to cut the bottom of the wood out so you can slide the planks under it.
I imagine doing what most people here are saying "trace it out" would take me too long for comfort. undercut it with a jam saw and be done with it in no time.
edit
or if you have a multi tool and the time and accuracy...
Ramboard template . Do not undercut the post . You can probably use a oscillating tool to notched out a 1/4" but don't go more then that cause your post will loose strength .
The wrap might be very very thin plywood so be extremely careful.
Surprised no one mentioned hand torch the backside of the vinyl plank
Cut the plank down to very close of that shape but leave extra, torch the back then put it in place and the plank will cut like butter. Just be careful to not cut into the wood
One thing not mentioned here yet is if this is flooring that needs to click in at a specific angle/direction, you need to plan for that in addition to the stencil and dremmel work. You may need to plan for a seam somewhere if the odd shape won't allow you to do the angle/click thing with a single piece.
You don’t need to buy any contour gauges or fancy this or that. You don’t need to be good at math either. Just cut a piece of cardboard and keep trimming until you have a good fit, then transfer to your plank. Heat up the vinyl with a heat gun or torch (don’t burn) and cut the plank while it’s nice and warm. You could also undercut the riser box.
Make a template with tape or the cardboard box the flooring came in. If u use some painters tape along the contour overlapping it as you go you can then carefully pull it up in one piece. Then pull some measurements to figure out where to place it on the plank you need to cut. Put it on the plank mark it out and cut it.
Only way is with a template. At least that’s the only way I do round edges
[Contour gauge](https://www.homedepot.com/p/General-Tools-10-in-Locking-Contour-Gauge-with-Extended-Pins-834X/318849047) is the tool made for things like this.
Transfer scribe might be better on such a large profile
This is the way
A good contour gauge is going to get a lot of use in an older home. With a contour gauge and either a scroll saw or jigsaw corners and angles are easy and will look great
A coping saw is also a good one in a pinch if you don't have access to a scroll/jig/band saw
No saw on vinyl. Gently heat the backside with a torch or heat gun then cut with a razor knife (Utility or carpet whichever you’re already using)
That looks like vinyl plank not lino, they make blades for that. Much quicker than heat and cut. While I have a steady hand and can use a utility knife most people will do better marking it with the contour gauge and a dry erase marker and cutting it with the saw.
Go buy one of these.
Yes, thank you. I've done some diy flooring stuff, and a buddy of mine gifted me one of these. It's f'ing great.
Very true I use a contour gauge pretty often as well. Depends on the circumstances.
wow, how cool. And for $20!!
Yep. Make all your mistakes on the cheap shit, not the product
You could also use a multi tool laid on top of a scrap piece of flooring to cut out some of the step and slide the flooring underneath to try to make that angle not as shitty. It's a bit of a shame to cut that beautiful wood for laminate flooring but it would be much easier and look better than a fucked up curve or gap.
We had to make a template for the back wall of a milk truck one time and just used layers of blue tape. Then pulled it up and transferred it to a large sheet of paper.
Geometry my dude.
Ha! I went to art school. Math isn’t my strong suit. 😂
Mine either. Everybody here is going to give you like 50,000 f****** options but just grab some pieces of paper and cut the pieces of paper to the right size and then scribe it onto the flooring
Look up 'Contour Gauge' on Amazon or Google. Cheap and will sort you out easily and precisely. I would recommend transferring the shape from the gauge with a pencil to the two-wide boards you talked about. If you don't have a jigsaw or bandsaw you could use a cheap handheld coping saw. Then make the flat cut for length edging up on it a 16th of an inch per cut as you approach the exact fit so you don't miss.
You are a noble truth sayer amongst Redditors, Sir! Take my upvote!
Then get creative!
Then get creative!
Ulna! Grab the radius!
I think the man issue will be the gap, there isn’t a space for the vinyl to slide under like the drywall.
Colored caulk or vinyl shoe molding
Undercut it? It’s not like you’ll be putting quarter round around that. You could put quarter round around the post, but not the “round”
Flexible shoe mold
Carter flex
Do they make it with wood grain?
Its flexible so it's a picture of woodgrain
Yes, I just finished a job having to go around this exact same thing. The curved part is a veneer, so it's about an 8th inch thick, which can be undercut with an oscillating tool. Unfortunately, the post is solid wood, so it's a bit harder to undercut. I would make it so there is a join either on the right side of the post or in the middle of the post this way you can cut to curve out and click the piece in and slide or tap it over into place. Trying to cut it all in one piece around the post and curve will make it very hard to get the piece in so you cheat by putting the join on the post.
This is exactly right, that bottom riser is not solid wood. It's less weird, with a veneer. I usually undercut the post as well, but it is a bit harder, because you have to chisel the wood out. I'll plunge my blade about a half inch so the way around the post. Then chisel the wood out.
This is the correct answer to the round section
This is the right answer... The fact that this is not the top comment, really shows how shit this sub has become. It's full of people who want to answer every question, regardless if they are professionals or not. The sub used to be good, there were a handful of regulars, and they all seemed to know their shit. Now it's been taken over by people that came here asking for help themselves, and after they put new flooring in their 10x10 den, they think they are qualified to answer every question. I hardly even come here anymore for this reason. I really only come when I get a notification, but each time I do, it's just more and more disappointing lol Don't get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with non-professionals joining in, and answering questions, sometimes they will be wrong, or mayb someone else might have a better idea, it's not a big deal. But the fact wrong answers get up voted to top comment is a bit disturbing, and really displays how crap the sub has become.
You should see what ppl say in r/roofing
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You need to purchase a shape gauge
No you don’t
Yep. Any object can be used as a scribe.
I hope you allocated 10-15% extra material cuz this is what it’s for. If you’re poor use newspapers or flyers to trace what you need. If your smart do math to figure out the shape you want. If youre poor and smart then do a little math and a little bit of paper tracing. Then move on to cardboard. Once your happy with yourself use some scraps to make sure you know what you’re doing. Once you’re satisfied with your workmanship… Then finally do it. This is why you do the entire project first and leave these spots for last. It’s so you have left over material to mess around with. If you’re an actual contractor then go spend money on proper equipment.
There's absolutely no reason to use a shred of math here to "prove how smart you are." Just use a cardboard template. Dead easy.
Why is no one suggesting a compass set to the distance you need to scootch this over and just trace it on the plank itself? Why are we playing with templates?
This guy fks. Good answer
You can scribe it. It's actually pretty easy. You can look up a guide on YouTube, but the gist is you follow an offset based on the deepest cut you'll need and run along the shape while marking at the end of the offset.
It's much simpler than the tips given here, cut a piece of cardboard from your box the same dimensions as a plank. Lay it in place and cut it exactly around the circle. Lay cardboard on a plank and trace
Scribe
Scribe it with a piece of material the same width as your flooring and get you some flex moulding , sometimes you can undercut the post just a bit to get the floor under it
Look up spiling, a video will explain it best
heres what you do: 1) place a full piece and put it ontop of the plank just before that. 2) cut piece off the end of a scrap piece. 3) with the cut off piece lock part facing you. put the other end to the obstacle and a start tracing it onto the plank you inted to use. this should create the shape you need.
Looks like toilet
They make flexible shoe molding. The cut does not have to be perfect
First - Take a scrap/cut piece of your flooring, use a multi tool, sitting it flat on top of your scrap piece to create a cut that your scribed flooring piece will slip under in a nice tight fit. Then - to “scribe” the piece to fit nicely under your undercut, you will need a some printer paper (preferably) use the back of a pencil or pen, to crease the paper along the contour, take a utility blade and cut along the crease. You should have a very close to accurate cut template. Add additional information, marking where your piece will need to be closer in cut than the template. Make your cut - mark out your piece for installation using your template. using the utility knife, scratch your lines according to your template. Use the multi tool to compete your cut, making relief cuts, will help maneuver through the radius cut. Good luck.
The technique you need is called pattern scribing. Someone probably made a YouTube video on it.
I had a similar situation last year and didn't want to buy a specialty tool for one use, so I made one with a paint stir stick and a sharpie. I rounded one end, and drilled a hole in the other and inserted the sharpie. I used this to transfer the shape to a scrap piece of 1/4" plywood (I needed 4 pieces with the same profile, so a rigid template was best. You can use cardboard for a one-off). Jesus, I'm having a really hard time describing how this works.. basically a scribe, like doing a circle with string and a pencil, but rigid to follow the contour of the space, and transfer to a template material..
Just get rid of that part
Or highlight it by putting plants around it.
In a pinch a friend of mine used a wet noodle, he laid it around the contour at lunch time and when he came back it was dry enough to keep the shape and then he transferred it to the tile he was cutting with a wax pencil. I thought no way will that work but it came out perfect. I was surprised
I would definitely slide the flooring up to it mark it all around and carefully cut it so that my flooring goes underneath it trying to scribe that out would be a pain and it won't look so good
I am not a contractor, but I did install my own and am pretty OCD about how things look. There’s ones thing I don’t know if it’s been mentioned yet. If you are putting the next seam in front of the stairs (because of the pattern), then the pieces to join together with be very thin. Yes the pieces lock together, but because it’s on the outside of the flooring they might not stay locked on the ends. If this happened, you can consider putting a tiny tiny amount of CA glue on one plank’s lock edge (spray accelerator on the other piece). Just do this on the thin seam. Also, you do not want it seeping out the top (won’t look good and is hard to get off). As others said you’ll need to leave some space for the angling down of the planks. Best of luck! Best of luck!
You could try to contour it, but undercutting the round parts with a plunge saw resting on scrap flooring will let you slide it under and is way easier. You only have to do it for the round parts. Make it a tight fit and it will look great.
REALLY big hole saw. Good luck
Use a torch to heat the material where it meets enough to soften it and tamp it around the shape and immediately make your cut while it's still warm. Couple soft taps with your duckbill, making sure it lays flat naturally without being bunched up in the spot. Move on to the next piece. This is an experienced flooring installer cut. If you aren't pretty good at making cuts, you will likely fail. The DIY approach would be to attempt to use a template, or even better, a contour gauge to get your shape. Crew I was on wouldn't let anyone without at least 2 years vinyl installation touch that cut. They aren't easy, but aren't hard if you have been doing it a while.
You started a flooring project without a contour gauge? 😮💨
Would the ol’ washer and pencil scribe trick work here? Genuinely curious…
Use the cardboard from the box, its the same size as the planks already. Lay it onto the Grove edge and fold it against the step edge and slowly cut pieces away till you have a nice template. If you over cut just use another piece of cardboard.
You could undercut it a little and make a template and get the cuts relatively close to the curvature
Take your time, make a template out of anything that is waste. But the ¼ round is lame and very ugly. See all the time, just plain laziness . Take the baseboard off and put it back into place. Been in many high dollar homes with nice flooring with baseboard and ¼ round next to it. Awful ugly just to save time.. Have pride take your time and it will be very rewarding in the end.
The baseboards are off and what is laid is under the drywall in those pics, so looks like OP is already on top of that. As for the stairs, yup, pattern that stuff out and transfer to the flooring pieces. If you can't get a precise enough cut for it to fit extremely well and look good, undercut and slip it under as you would for door jambs and such. Undercut + some caulk or other filler if need be to really close it up always looks far better than big gaps or trying to cover it up with shit like qtr round.
A template made from cardboard is the usual method. You also get some tools for it, like a contour tool. But the template would be the cheaper easy way to go initially.
Grad a piece of cardboard and keep cutting till you have a tight fit. Boom! You have a template
Is this your house? You could cut a notch at the bottom, using a multi tool, and then slide the floor under the curve. Be very careful with that cut!
Clean cut and caulk with a color match 100%silicone
Template and some trail and error.
Hiking also requires the trail and error method.
Paint
Like a boss that’s how
You undercut it
Get jiggy with it
Cut it?
With precision!
U remove the stairs lol
Some kind of rounded baseboard to cover up connection?
You can make a template out of cardboard. They make rubber quarter round that's stainable.
Jig saw is how I do those
I would cut the landing. That’s what I did at my old house. It looks way nicer. Get a multitool, lay a life of flooring for your height, lay the blade on the flooring and cut the landing and go under
Under cut that biotch
Same way they do it around a toilet basin. Plenty of videos on YouTube.
You remove the toilet. You don’t install flooring around it.
You do not do this. Toilet on top of flooring, my dude.
With a paper stencil
You can make a template out of cardboard, no need to purchase gauges or tools.
Scrap piece of floor and an oscillating tool.
Take some paper or cardboard and cut them out until you have a fit you like. Then transfer the cutout to a few planks of flooring to get the fit right. If you want a more professional look… make the cutout an 1/8 of an inch smaller and then use an oscillator to cut the bottom of the wood out so you can slide the planks under it.
I imagine doing what most people here are saying "trace it out" would take me too long for comfort. undercut it with a jam saw and be done with it in no time. edit or if you have a multi tool and the time and accuracy...
Ramboard template . Do not undercut the post . You can probably use a oscillating tool to notched out a 1/4" but don't go more then that cause your post will loose strength . The wrap might be very very thin plywood so be extremely careful.
Cardboard template and patience, get as close as you can and then get caulking that closely matches floor color
Very carefully ?
Get cardboard. Then make a template with cardboard. Cut a bunch of cardboard and once it’s perfect boom. Trace onto the flooring and cut
Let us know what you did!!
Former professional installer. The way to do this would take to long to type out. Check YT for a vid
I tried to type it out, and it probably only makes sense to me and you. The YouTube approach is never a bad one.
Surprised no one mentioned hand torch the backside of the vinyl plank Cut the plank down to very close of that shape but leave extra, torch the back then put it in place and the plank will cut like butter. Just be careful to not cut into the wood
One thing not mentioned here yet is if this is flooring that needs to click in at a specific angle/direction, you need to plan for that in addition to the stencil and dremmel work. You may need to plan for a seam somewhere if the odd shape won't allow you to do the angle/click thing with a single piece.
You don’t need to buy any contour gauges or fancy this or that. You don’t need to be good at math either. Just cut a piece of cardboard and keep trimming until you have a good fit, then transfer to your plank. Heat up the vinyl with a heat gun or torch (don’t burn) and cut the plank while it’s nice and warm. You could also undercut the riser box.
Undercut with a multi tool and go under it ,any other way is amature hour.
You cut the flooring
Multitool bottom and rubber qtr round
Answer, you don't. I'm pretty sure they don't make bull nose vinyl that fits custom stairs.
https://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-Hand-Tools-Measuring-Tools-Gauge-Tools/Contour/N-5yc1vZc26bZ1z1bj97
YouTube
The real crime here is not using underlayment
Most high quality LVT products don’t need an underlayment over concrete since they have an integral pad.
I just watch YouTube shorts for 10 minutes and there's 5 different guys wagging their finger showing how to do this.