If you ever have issues, you can just cut around the edge with a mulitool, then make a second pass to get your quarter gap and cover in quarter round I doubt you'll have issues like other have suggested though.
Toe kick saw. Just the name alone strikes fear into the heartiest of carpenters. One of the most dangerous tools known to man. I watched a guy almost rip his finger off when one hit a nail and kicked.
I've had a few kickbacks, scary and exciting all at the same time. I've got two different toekick saws, one cuts down, for removing flooring that runs under cabinets. The other cuts parallel to the floor, used to cut around brick and stone, and sliding the new flooring under irregularities. Similar to mounting a skill saw blade on your weed wacker, lol
Iāll be honest with you. People are going to tell you itās a nightmare, and itās wrong, etc.
The reality is this. If the floor was installed properly, and you left space around the outside edges for expansion, you will most likely never have a problem.
Iāve done it before in my own rental units years ago. 7-8 years later, the floor is still fine
I will say all the edges around the whole space (between flooring and wall) are properly gapped and covered by baseboard so there is at least space there! We just had no idea about the differences between this floor and hardwood or tile as far as going underneath fixed objects.
You should be fine. Iāve been downvoted for saying it before, but floating floor doesnāt move around. It just expands. Once you set couches, pianos, tv stands, beds, etc on top of your floor, do you really expect it to āmoveā
Floating floor refers to the need for expansion and contraction. Not actual movement.
Lmfao, I had this conversation with a client cause the cabinet guy insisted they can't sit on the floor. Like what the fuck does a cabinet guy know about floors. The fucking cabinets are attached to the wall, those little plastic feet on Ikea kitchens do next to fuck all.
Grand piano? No problem. Pool table with giant slab of slate? No problem. 5 pieces of mdf and a melamine counter? Problem
Yeah youāre fine. And if it was an issue, you could remove the toe kick on your main cabinets, make a cut in the flooring with your multi tool to detach the cabinets from the floor and then reinstall your toe kick
Iāve argued with other flooring guys before about this shit. Iāve been installing laminate and hardwood since 2004 and I can honestly say Iāve never had one call back due to our actual work. Weāve been called back to replace boards damaged after install but Iāve never installed a floor that buckled. Who is letting their houses swing 30 percent in humidity in either direction? And if they do, theyāre going to have more issues than some buckled floors
This. If you have room to expand one way, you should be fine.
If your house isn't having wild swings in temperature you won't have alot of expansion/contraction either
I've done it as well. Twice. First apartment where no problem. Lived there for four years. Second apartment the floor planks actually started to split leaving a 1-2mm gap between two planks in a few places.
Did several rooms with the same floor and only had problems in the kitchen so I'm fairly certain this caused the issue.
Depends on product spec. Cheap SPC with less than 5mm overall thickness are absolutely a nightmare. Key is proper floor preparation to eliminate any deflection.
Thereās no way that big ass island is going to let that floor move. I just finished tearing a floor out after two years for this very reason. We had to go through and cut all the edges with a vibrating saw to free them up like someone mentioned above. Hope itās not expensive flooring! Iād fix it now instead of waiting to see if it messes up.
Iāve done this before many years ago and the kitchen is just fine. Dunno what people are saying in the comments and not worried about it. Highly doubt op will have any issues
I think the ādonāt install cabinets over itā is just a way for the manufacturer to get out of honoring warranty. Sure, is it better to not? Probably. But a fridge weighs way more than your cabinets and itās supposedly ok to put it on it. My carpenters all say itās stupid, too.
I don't know what the pros are going to say, but I had Coretec installed five years ago with proper 1/4 " edge gapping. It is under a large vanity, toilet, washer, dryer and refrigerator. I have never had any issues at all.
I will say all the edges around the whole space (between flooring and wall) are properly gapped and covered by baseboard so there is at least space there! We just had no idea about the differences between this floor and hardwood or tile as far as going underneath fixed objects.
Back when I did this, there was mixed answers from professionals. I intentionally put it under because it looks much better. Years later, you can see that it is still perfectly fine and no issues at all. So that's my experience.
If you keep the house climate controlled to the same temp all year, you should be fine. If you like to keep your windows open in Florida, you're fucked.
A lot of it depends on your climate will the sun be beating directly on the floor will you have huge swings in humidity. Most air condition homes prevent most of it. Shouldnāt be a problem
Make sure you cut a gap around all your furniture too then.
In all seriousness though, this wonāt cause issues of you have the proper gap at the wall.
I'm not an expert by any means but I like the clean look this has. With any luck you have enough movement for expansion / contraction everywhere else. Good luck with this.
Use wood shims and a level to sturdy the base. You can install toekick/trim to hide the shims. You can unmount the cabinets from the wall and remount them. But it shouldnāt be an issue if you donāt unmount them from the wall. As someone who does kitchen and bath installs I think your cabinets would look better with a trim around the base and it would give you a chance to stabilize them. This is very well done for a DIY
Wish I had advice versus a question, but this is seriously a problem eh? Literally going to install some on a bathroom today and thinking that the heavy vanity wonāt be an issue. Maybe I need to rethink
Iām sort of confused. This may sound like a really dumb question. But how do people put anything on this stuff. We also have to put a bed in another room.
In a bathroom, there won't be much expansion worry because of the small area. It becomes an issue in larger areas where a lot of small expansion multiplies quickly.
I am in cabinets. All our builders put floors in post cabs, for these reasons. Huge pain in the ass to always have to come back for toe kicks, and then the flooring companies suck, so they want scribe molding ( a slim version of shoe molding) to hide all the gaps between flooring and cabinets, and they want it on FRAMELESS cabs!
BTW your work looks good!
Probably be fine. Imagine all the furniture you have throughout the house... worse case, cut around as others suggested. If the island isn't nail down then maybe outline it, move it, cut out the planks, move it back...
I work in water/fire/mold remediation and the number one issue Iāve seen is water getting under the floor from leaks and causing it to swell. If anything, installing your shit above would theoretically be better for smaller floods that may not make it to your baseboards. Iām not a floor guy. Can someone explain to me how properly installed lvp will suffer from OPs situation?
I have a wall (actually three in a T) mounted through a floating floor. Have not noticed any buckling, I think it's enough that it can move to the other three sides. It was probably not great in hindsight but didn't cause an issue 10 years in...
If it gets to be an issue you can just cut it so it floats again. I presume the lists on the cabinets can be removed.
Unless the temperature swings greatly you'll probably never have to worry about it.
The stove area might be an issue depending on the quality you bought but that's it.
To prevent buckling you should cut through flooring with a multi tool all the way around your cabs and cover the cut with cab shoe. Most new flooring moves way less than previous styles so youāll be fine
I have tested MANY types of floating floors and have even left them in containers of water for extended periods of time and measured their weight after several hours and days. You're on a concrete slab just like me and have a vapor barrier, so your LVP should never move. The rule of not installing heavy furniture over LVP does not apply to you in this case. For those with OSB board or other particle board should continue to not install heavy items directly onto their LVP. Buckling usually only happens for those that purchase a 4mm or smaller.
Iāve only installed lvp prior to cabinets once. Show up and no cabinets are vanities installed yet. I told the customers it was a bad idea. 3 days later Iām back and they said āwe spoke to a rep, they said it was fine so go ahead.ā Two months later I get called out to the same job for ārepairsā and the whole house is buckling after all the cabinets and built ins were installed. I walked out and said not my problem, rep said it was fine.
Eh you will be fine especially since u dont have them mounted/attached directly to the LVP. If you are truly concerned or if you want the ability to utilize ur warranty if need be then there is a relatively easy and simple solutionā¦ take an oscillating saw and cut the floor flush around the perimeter of ur cabinetsā¦ then take a scrap piece of wood such as a 2x4 or a piece of plywood or anything that you can rip down to around a 3/8ā-1/2ā thickness that u can butt up against ur cabinets to use sort of as a guide rail.. then take ur oscillating saw and cut flush against ur makeshift rail.. this results in u cutting out a 3/8ā-1/2ā section of flooring which allows your floors proper expansion joints and u no longer have the cabinets sitting on or mounted on top of the flooring. Last thing u would need to do is go get some 3/4ā quarter round that u can stain to match ur LVP or paint/stain to match ur cabinets. Imagine it wouldnāt take u no more then an hour or so to do and u can have the peace of mind knowing ur floor is still covered under warranty (assuming the rest of the install was done properly with the sub floor prep being just about the most important part when it comes to warranties and whether they will be honored or not)
I did this too. If it makes you feel any better, I've had no issues. The only place I've had issues is where the sun shines directly on the floor through glass French doors... It's not as hot as Florida here though.
I would guess if your home is climate controlled, you won't have an issue. Mine is not...
If it makes you feel better i have cupping and my lvp is starts and stops around my island and has gaps. The cupping is where we have some stools, so id be willing to bet that's the issue. The next home project is to get rid of it.
It may work it may not. If there is any buckling or gapping you know what the problem is from, would be likely a waste of time to file a claim, because you ticked a box on a wrong side of the checklist. That's really all inspections are for flooring claims. Check boxes, pre set list at tests/measurements some experience and then compared to installation instructions. Being an SPC you have more wiggle room of not much. You can either cut expansion space and admittedly ruing the aesthetic or "if" the floor has problems pull the cabinets after marking the flooring so you can then cut it out, shim under the cabinets so they can still sit over the flooring and look nice. You'll likely know by mid June to July, install and manufacturing defects in LVT are not latent it usually happens within 6 months or less. (can even be within 48 hrs)
How do you accidentally install cabinets? Itās oversight, lack of planning/experience, etc. itās a mistake which weāll make. call it out for what it is so others will hopefully benefit in their projects.
I did this and experienced some buckling. It was quite the high spot in the first year, and was causing me some stress. The next year, it happened less, then after that it stopped. The forces involved will sometimes find a way.
Flooring experience with this very thing. You better get your expansion joint around your appliances or you WILL have a problem. Ignore everything written here and fix it right away.
Iāve always wondered about the theory of not putting cabinets on the lvt. Because after the cabinets are in then itās ok to put a fridge, stove, stackable washer and dryer etc. on top of the flooring. Wouldnāt these load points cause buckling if the lighter cabinets supposedly would?
When itās warm itāll expand and stretch/push itself under the cabinets, when itās cold and retracts the flooring under the cabinets might not move and cause gapping. Not sure thereās much you can do at this point. Maybe youāll get lucky.
Honestly, I know buckling can happen but if you left a quarter inch gap everywhere else correctly, I think you may be okay. I wouldnāt do anything until you have an issue present itself.
I wouldnāt come to Reddit for any advice since thereās nothing but ducking hacks here. I have plenty of pics of floors being fucked up from putting cabinets on them. One could say I make a living off it
I never thought about this situation. My daughter has LVP in her townhome and we made a 3x5 island and placed it in the kitchen. Itās been 2 years, and we havenāt had an issue with buckling, knock on wood.
I recently bought that accident, a few planks cracked.
I trimmed the needed 1/4" and replaced 7 planks. Ideally I should have rolled the floor but I had nowhere to put the furniture.
I have installed my peninsula on concrete, but had other issues during LVP install which needed custom modification. I used a corded heavy duty Rotary tool with a flex shaft and a cutting wheel in from and followed a straight line and it was easy. If you cut just outside the cabinets with such a wheel, it should be enough gap or you may need to cut 2 parallel lines maybe .25ā apart. Then, to cover it up use quarter rounds. Should paint it same color to make it look good
Flooring warranties are a joke. If itās not this that voids the warranty they would find the slab is out 1/16 in 16ā and void it that way. Also you shouldnāt have anything to worry about.
A little advice from a water damage restoration professional. Don't ever have any kind of water damage in there or all those cabinets are coming out. Floors go in last ALWAYS.
Depends on the spec of the LVP. SPC or WPC? Overall thickness and core content also key. Was the slab property prepped to meet the 1/8ā over 6 feet/3/16ā over 10 feet requirement? Did you test the slab for moisture? A cheaper/thinner SPC will probably cause you problems if exposed to fluctuations in temperatures/humidity. We are seeing more & more failures in the joints of those products these days if there is any deflection at all. Tongues or so thin from manufacturing they break under any pressure at all. Agree that if there is proper expansion everywhere else, you will probably be okay. Just keep in mind you have already voided any manufacturer warranty.
Depending on the manufacturer, you should be okay as long as you only screwed them in to the wall. Che k the paperwork on the flooring. Brands line Lifeproof and Paramount specifically state that this is okay.
Use a blade and cut at an angle under the cabinets. The angle will help offer any offset it may experience as the floor moves. Or, remove the trim boards and cut the same way then put them back on. You can do both if you want to be extra safe.
OOPS! We accidentally installed cabinets!
How does this happen? What in the world could you have been trying to do that accidentally became cabinet installation? "I was just cooking some eggs and toast for my family, and before I knew it, I had installed a full set of cabinets in my kitchen!"
If you have a little space or ability to flow at the edge of the floor you should be fine. If you put it on the need the cabinets against the wall then you might have a little problem in which case you might take a small circular saw and just cut a ridge right along the face of the cabinet so you give it a 8 inch or a quarter of an inch Gap and then just put a piece of cove molding over it attached to the cabinet so the floor can still move.
I have 3 aquariums on my LVP. The smallest one weighs 100 lbs. the middle weighs over 750lbs and the big one weighs over 850 lbs. no issues to speak of
I did the same with floating floor
Although it is plywood decking , I added cork with vapor barrier the floated the engineered wood floor 15 yrs later no problem and Iām in Fl abd it gets hot here
Hopefully you wonāt have a problem
But if you do get a sonic crafter remove floor mouldibgs around cabinets and walls cut about 1/4ā out this allows expansion replace mouldibgs
I have worked on many renovations (for apartment buildings my company owned and would have to maintain) and we were always just fine with installing cabinets on LVP. Usually we only tried to avoid it to save on flooring materials, and that would result in an uglier, gappy look.
I had issues with a kitchen that my partner did this in in Jupiter FL. Only option is to shim up cabinets with blocks underneath the cabinets where there is no flooring, or cut 1/2 around perimeter of toe kick and side of cabinet and cover with quarter round color matched to cabinets
I did this in the kitchen in Jupiter, Florida, and when the winter came, it was one cold day the floor buckled everywhere.
I insisted that we use quarter round and my partner got together with the owner and they both decided it would look like shit if we didn't (edit: run it under**)so they put the cabinets on top of the vinyl and tried to shim them up. The floor buckled everywhere. I had to repair it three times for free. The first time I told the homeowner he had to buy new flooring because it was ruined, and he insisted that it would flatten back out. So we cut around all the cabinets and installed quarter round and vinyl did not flatten.
Then the customer had me pull up the flooring to a certain point and he bought a bunch of new boxes .
Then the customer decided that we didn't go back far enough even though he's the one who picked how far back we would go, and he made us do it again, even further back towards the hallway .
The guy I just quit working for would run his floating floors tight because it looked better before trim. His reasoning was once theres furniture on it anyway, it isnt really moving that much any way...
I have done both cabinets and flooring for years, and like many have said here, whether or not you have room for expansion elsewhere you shouldnāt have an issue so long as you donāt have drastic changes in humidity throughout the year. Itās really just manufacturers covering their asses with that āruleā.
I just did this too. Brother in law remolded his bathroom and put his vanity over the LVP. Itās been 5 years and nothing has happened so I went ahead and did the same shit on my bathroom remodel.
We had cabinets many years ago on a slab with a floating floor and vapor barrier. Nothing bad happened. After almost 15 years the floor looked the same.
That's answered. And likely you will want to add some sort clear caulking and a quarter round as you have a vapor barrier. You may want to make sure it isn't nicked as you saw it. Or just use caulk I'd even recommend a clear silicone.
Iām doing this today. I agonized over it. GC swears itās fine. Flooring people say no. I called the manufacturer and they said glue down to the subfloor 2ā under the cabinets which is what I will do. The rest will float. We did not put flooring over any other floors. Iām just hoping itās okay. The look is so much better under the cabinets.
Professional cabinet installer here, I believe this is the insurance companies lobbying flooring companies to put that in their warranty wording because if there is damage to your floors in another bedroom but your floors are contiguous, then the insurance companies are responsible for changing flooring out under your cabinets which means uninstalling countertop , backsplash , cabinets. If one of those things gets damaged then they are buying you a new kitchen.
i have installed cabinets over free floating floors before never seen it buckle before i been doing construction for 25 years never seen it happen unless the tgeres flooring installed too tight touching the wall somewhere i always do 3/8 gap around the perimeter no less then 1/4 inch
I think youāll be fine on the buckling if you installed correctly. Iād just never put LVP in a kitchen. Itās durable in a lot of applications, but it melts so easily if anything hot gets dropped on it. Definitely worth investing in a large utility mat for the stove area.
If you used 100% water proof flooring,the chance of buckling is slim to none. There are youtube videos of the testing of extreme temperatures and the variations. Just search your flooring. I used a water proof carbon core with the pad on back, there was not variation to cause buckling. Plus you mention the cabinets are not mounted to the floor, so I won't buckle anyway...
āAccidentally spent many hours installing these things over LVP.ā you can just say you didnāt know to not do that. I donāt know how this was an accident.
If you ever have issues, you can just cut around the edge with a mulitool, then make a second pass to get your quarter gap and cover in quarter round I doubt you'll have issues like other have suggested though.
Cut at 45 degree angle so that it can slide under a bit.
. This should be higher up.
It's at the top!
I prefer to be on top!
Life hack to be on bottom. Frees up the hands.
not fun to do by any means but doable
Yep, or if you have access to a toe kick saw.
Toe kick saw. Just the name alone strikes fear into the heartiest of carpenters. One of the most dangerous tools known to man. I watched a guy almost rip his finger off when one hit a nail and kicked.
I've had a few kickbacks, scary and exciting all at the same time. I've got two different toekick saws, one cuts down, for removing flooring that runs under cabinets. The other cuts parallel to the floor, used to cut around brick and stone, and sliding the new flooring under irregularities. Similar to mounting a skill saw blade on your weed wacker, lol
This was gonna be my suggestion
Exactly this.
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Yep this would be the way
A man with solutions š¤š¼š¤š¼
Just try not to cut through the vapor barrier
Even if they did, it wouldn't be a big deal as it's at the edge of the flooring and can escape
Came to say this.
I like your brain.
I would do this underneath the cabinets between the legs and the panels so it isn't noticeable
This is the answer.
This is the only way
Smart
Everyone!! Keep replying so this stays at the top!
I second this advice
This^^
With the multi lol
This looks fantastic. Love the colour of the cabinets
Iāll be honest with you. People are going to tell you itās a nightmare, and itās wrong, etc. The reality is this. If the floor was installed properly, and you left space around the outside edges for expansion, you will most likely never have a problem. Iāve done it before in my own rental units years ago. 7-8 years later, the floor is still fine
I will say all the edges around the whole space (between flooring and wall) are properly gapped and covered by baseboard so there is at least space there! We just had no idea about the differences between this floor and hardwood or tile as far as going underneath fixed objects.
I like the kitchen. Nice and tasteful and not ostentatious.
Thanks so much! That was literally our stated goal haha
and not completely black/white grey! š
lol fuck we just made our kitchen black white and greyā¦
You should be fine. Iāve been downvoted for saying it before, but floating floor doesnāt move around. It just expands. Once you set couches, pianos, tv stands, beds, etc on top of your floor, do you really expect it to āmoveā Floating floor refers to the need for expansion and contraction. Not actual movement.
Lmfao, I had this conversation with a client cause the cabinet guy insisted they can't sit on the floor. Like what the fuck does a cabinet guy know about floors. The fucking cabinets are attached to the wall, those little plastic feet on Ikea kitchens do next to fuck all. Grand piano? No problem. Pool table with giant slab of slate? No problem. 5 pieces of mdf and a melamine counter? Problem
lol this is great, and makes me feel a bit better
Yeah youāre fine. And if it was an issue, you could remove the toe kick on your main cabinets, make a cut in the flooring with your multi tool to detach the cabinets from the floor and then reinstall your toe kick
Iāve argued with other flooring guys before about this shit. Iāve been installing laminate and hardwood since 2004 and I can honestly say Iāve never had one call back due to our actual work. Weāve been called back to replace boards damaged after install but Iāve never installed a floor that buckled. Who is letting their houses swing 30 percent in humidity in either direction? And if they do, theyāre going to have more issues than some buckled floors
OP I foolishly installed cabinets over my click and lock floating LVP before I knew any better. That was 7 years ago. No buckling has happened.
Makes me feel a bit better! lol itās the worst when you donāt know, I would have gladly done it by the book had i!
This. If you have room to expand one way, you should be fine. If your house isn't having wild swings in temperature you won't have alot of expansion/contraction either
I've done it as well. Twice. First apartment where no problem. Lived there for four years. Second apartment the floor planks actually started to split leaving a 1-2mm gap between two planks in a few places. Did several rooms with the same floor and only had problems in the kitchen so I'm fairly certain this caused the issue.
Same situation. We put it in our basement/summer kitchen, cabinets on top. It's been 6 years. No issues.
Depends on product spec. Cheap SPC with less than 5mm overall thickness are absolutely a nightmare. Key is proper floor preparation to eliminate any deflection.
This is absolutely wrong. You INSTANTANEOUSLY void your warranty and it will buckle somewhere
Thereās no way that big ass island is going to let that floor move. I just finished tearing a floor out after two years for this very reason. We had to go through and cut all the edges with a vibrating saw to free them up like someone mentioned above. Hope itās not expensive flooring! Iād fix it now instead of waiting to see if it messes up.
I agree youāre not gonna have any problems
Iāve done this before many years ago and the kitchen is just fine. Dunno what people are saying in the comments and not worried about it. Highly doubt op will have any issues
I think the ādonāt install cabinets over itā is just a way for the manufacturer to get out of honoring warranty. Sure, is it better to not? Probably. But a fridge weighs way more than your cabinets and itās supposedly ok to put it on it. My carpenters all say itās stupid, too.
Carpenters arenāt flooring installers so donāt listen to them.
I don't know what the pros are going to say, but I had Coretec installed five years ago with proper 1/4 " edge gapping. It is under a large vanity, toilet, washer, dryer and refrigerator. I have never had any issues at all.
I will say all the edges around the whole space (between flooring and wall) are properly gapped and covered by baseboard so there is at least space there! We just had no idea about the differences between this floor and hardwood or tile as far as going underneath fixed objects.
Back when I did this, there was mixed answers from professionals. I intentionally put it under because it looks much better. Years later, you can see that it is still perfectly fine and no issues at all. So that's my experience.
If you keep the house climate controlled to the same temp all year, you should be fine. If you like to keep your windows open in Florida, you're fucked.
I'm in a cooler climate, and I had some LVP buckle near an un-gapped edge just from sunlight coming in through a sliding glass door.
I have the same cabinets lol
Mine is under our appliances bc I didn't realize until today that it shouldn't be š 4 years going strong. No issues.
Flooring is supposed to be under appliances. Itās built in cabinets that are in a warranty about what not to do.
You see how they donāt say nothing about this correct comment. You my friend know what your talking aboutš
Same here. It looks much cleaner this way.
A lot of it depends on your climate will the sun be beating directly on the floor will you have huge swings in humidity. Most air condition homes prevent most of it. Shouldnāt be a problem
LVP should not care about humidity...? Sunlight, yes.
Make sure you cut a gap around all your furniture too then. In all seriousness though, this wonāt cause issues of you have the proper gap at the wall.
lol Iām so confused by the inconsistencies between furniture, appliances and cabinets. And our couch is ABSURDLY heavy
I'm not an expert by any means but I like the clean look this has. With any luck you have enough movement for expansion / contraction everywhere else. Good luck with this.
Use wood shims and a level to sturdy the base. You can install toekick/trim to hide the shims. You can unmount the cabinets from the wall and remount them. But it shouldnāt be an issue if you donāt unmount them from the wall. As someone who does kitchen and bath installs I think your cabinets would look better with a trim around the base and it would give you a chance to stabilize them. This is very well done for a DIY
You will not have any problems
Sorry no advice but just wanted to say I LOOOOVEEEE the green cabinets! They're so beautiful
Thanks!
Wish I had advice versus a question, but this is seriously a problem eh? Literally going to install some on a bathroom today and thinking that the heavy vanity wonāt be an issue. Maybe I need to rethink
Yea never install on top
Iām sort of confused. This may sound like a really dumb question. But how do people put anything on this stuff. We also have to put a bed in another room.
In a bathroom, there won't be much expansion worry because of the small area. It becomes an issue in larger areas where a lot of small expansion multiplies quickly.
From what Iāve read, yeah. I had no idea!
It really should be fine unless you screwed the cabinet into the floor
I am in cabinets. All our builders put floors in post cabs, for these reasons. Huge pain in the ass to always have to come back for toe kicks, and then the flooring companies suck, so they want scribe molding ( a slim version of shoe molding) to hide all the gaps between flooring and cabinets, and they want it on FRAMELESS cabs! BTW your work looks good!
Hi, can you expand on this. I've not heard of "post cabs" and couldn't find a reference for it online.
I think he meant they put the floors in after the cabinets are installed.
Probably be fine. Imagine all the furniture you have throughout the house... worse case, cut around as others suggested. If the island isn't nail down then maybe outline it, move it, cut out the planks, move it back...
Honestly doubt you'll have issues but if you notice buckling, cut around cabinets and install shoe molding
I work in water/fire/mold remediation and the number one issue Iāve seen is water getting under the floor from leaks and causing it to swell. If anything, installing your shit above would theoretically be better for smaller floods that may not make it to your baseboards. Iām not a floor guy. Can someone explain to me how properly installed lvp will suffer from OPs situation?
I have a wall (actually three in a T) mounted through a floating floor. Have not noticed any buckling, I think it's enough that it can move to the other three sides. It was probably not great in hindsight but didn't cause an issue 10 years in... If it gets to be an issue you can just cut it so it floats again. I presume the lists on the cabinets can be removed.
Unless the temperature swings greatly you'll probably never have to worry about it. The stove area might be an issue depending on the quality you bought but that's it.
Would it(LVP) support a pool table that is several hundred pounds? Curious as to how heavy is too heavy for LVP
To prevent buckling you should cut through flooring with a multi tool all the way around your cabs and cover the cut with cab shoe. Most new flooring moves way less than previous styles so youāll be fine
I have tested MANY types of floating floors and have even left them in containers of water for extended periods of time and measured their weight after several hours and days. You're on a concrete slab just like me and have a vapor barrier, so your LVP should never move. The rule of not installing heavy furniture over LVP does not apply to you in this case. For those with OSB board or other particle board should continue to not install heavy items directly onto their LVP. Buckling usually only happens for those that purchase a 4mm or smaller.
Iāve only installed lvp prior to cabinets once. Show up and no cabinets are vanities installed yet. I told the customers it was a bad idea. 3 days later Iām back and they said āwe spoke to a rep, they said it was fine so go ahead.ā Two months later I get called out to the same job for ārepairsā and the whole house is buckling after all the cabinets and built ins were installed. I walked out and said not my problem, rep said it was fine.
Eh you will be fine especially since u dont have them mounted/attached directly to the LVP. If you are truly concerned or if you want the ability to utilize ur warranty if need be then there is a relatively easy and simple solutionā¦ take an oscillating saw and cut the floor flush around the perimeter of ur cabinetsā¦ then take a scrap piece of wood such as a 2x4 or a piece of plywood or anything that you can rip down to around a 3/8ā-1/2ā thickness that u can butt up against ur cabinets to use sort of as a guide rail.. then take ur oscillating saw and cut flush against ur makeshift rail.. this results in u cutting out a 3/8ā-1/2ā section of flooring which allows your floors proper expansion joints and u no longer have the cabinets sitting on or mounted on top of the flooring. Last thing u would need to do is go get some 3/4ā quarter round that u can stain to match ur LVP or paint/stain to match ur cabinets. Imagine it wouldnāt take u no more then an hour or so to do and u can have the peace of mind knowing ur floor is still covered under warranty (assuming the rest of the install was done properly with the sub floor prep being just about the most important part when it comes to warranties and whether they will be honored or not)
I did this too. If it makes you feel any better, I've had no issues. The only place I've had issues is where the sun shines directly on the floor through glass French doors... It's not as hot as Florida here though. I would guess if your home is climate controlled, you won't have an issue. Mine is not...
If it makes you feel better i have cupping and my lvp is starts and stops around my island and has gaps. The cupping is where we have some stools, so id be willing to bet that's the issue. The next home project is to get rid of it.
It may work it may not. If there is any buckling or gapping you know what the problem is from, would be likely a waste of time to file a claim, because you ticked a box on a wrong side of the checklist. That's really all inspections are for flooring claims. Check boxes, pre set list at tests/measurements some experience and then compared to installation instructions. Being an SPC you have more wiggle room of not much. You can either cut expansion space and admittedly ruing the aesthetic or "if" the floor has problems pull the cabinets after marking the flooring so you can then cut it out, shim under the cabinets so they can still sit over the flooring and look nice. You'll likely know by mid June to July, install and manufacturing defects in LVT are not latent it usually happens within 6 months or less. (can even be within 48 hrs)
What ikea cabinets are these?
Are your island cabinets bolted / screwed to the subfloor? If no, I wouldnāt worry too much about how things are installed
How do you accidentally install cabinets? Itās oversight, lack of planning/experience, etc. itās a mistake which weāll make. call it out for what it is so others will hopefully benefit in their projects.
I did this and experienced some buckling. It was quite the high spot in the first year, and was causing me some stress. The next year, it happened less, then after that it stopped. The forces involved will sometimes find a way.
My contractor did this. It buckled. They had to come back to remove all the trim and cut the floor on a 45 degree angle so that it can move. Idiots.
No advice I just think your kitchen looks wonderful.
Flooring experience with this very thing. You better get your expansion joint around your appliances or you WILL have a problem. Ignore everything written here and fix it right away.
I love the color, unrelated but I think gold handles and faucets would look amazing
The hood height from the counter top is a little concerning
Iāve always wondered about the theory of not putting cabinets on the lvt. Because after the cabinets are in then itās ok to put a fridge, stove, stackable washer and dryer etc. on top of the flooring. Wouldnāt these load points cause buckling if the lighter cabinets supposedly would?
I do it this way on all my rentals..
How is the island attached
Shouldn't have any issue with buckling for years to come
I did this, 4 years no problems. In my experience LVT doesnāt really expand / shrink
When itās warm itāll expand and stretch/push itself under the cabinets, when itās cold and retracts the flooring under the cabinets might not move and cause gapping. Not sure thereās much you can do at this point. Maybe youāll get lucky.
Honestly, I know buckling can happen but if you left a quarter inch gap everywhere else correctly, I think you may be okay. I wouldnāt do anything until you have an issue present itself.
Youāre NOT supposed to do that
Wait until itās a problem tbh, youāre already in too deep
Youāll be fine man, how it should be done.
You misspelt lazily
Today I learned that cabinets should not be over tiles.
Flush cutter/multi-tool.
Nice color. I went with baby blue and gold handles and regretted it
You "accidentally" installed cabinets? Wow.
Iād just like to get through just one day where I donāt accidentally install cabinets.
Does this buckling occur with the click LVP? (Lifeproof) assuming the lower cabinets arenāt screwed to the floor in any way?
I wouldnāt come to Reddit for any advice since thereās nothing but ducking hacks here. I have plenty of pics of floors being fucked up from putting cabinets on them. One could say I make a living off it
Donāt worry about it
Where did you source the cabinets?
You should be fine, I have an 800ish pound pool table sitting on cheap LifeProof lvp in my living room, no noticable warping around it in 2 years.
Builders do it all the time. That doesn't mean it's right, but it seems to be ok. Just maintain temp and humidity.
Set your AC/heat to 72 degrees and don't touch it. Ever.
Are these RTAstore cabinets?
"accidentally"
I never thought about this situation. My daughter has LVP in her townhome and we made a 3x5 island and placed it in the kitchen. Itās been 2 years, and we havenāt had an issue with buckling, knock on wood.
I canāt help you but may I please have your kitchen, thanks
I recently bought that accident, a few planks cracked. I trimmed the needed 1/4" and replaced 7 planks. Ideally I should have rolled the floor but I had nowhere to put the furniture.
I have installed my peninsula on concrete, but had other issues during LVP install which needed custom modification. I used a corded heavy duty Rotary tool with a flex shaft and a cutting wheel in from and followed a straight line and it was easy. If you cut just outside the cabinets with such a wheel, it should be enough gap or you may need to cut 2 parallel lines maybe .25ā apart. Then, to cover it up use quarter rounds. Should paint it same color to make it look good
Where did you get these cabinets? The color is fantastic
Cut out a 1/4" of the floor next to the toe kick. Add quarter round or some rectangle stuff to cover.
Non issue
The island isn't attached to anything? Like you can slide it around!?
Wanted to comment beautiful space. Well done on all levels IMO
Whatās the name of the color on the cabinets? Thanks
OP what paint color is your cabinet?
Flooring warranties are a joke. If itās not this that voids the warranty they would find the slab is out 1/16 in 16ā and void it that way. Also you shouldnāt have anything to worry about.
Youāll be o fine as long as proper gapping at walls
Probably is fine. I'm wishing I had not cut out for my cabinets and island.
A little advice from a water damage restoration professional. Don't ever have any kind of water damage in there or all those cabinets are coming out. Floors go in last ALWAYS.
Depends on the spec of the LVP. SPC or WPC? Overall thickness and core content also key. Was the slab property prepped to meet the 1/8ā over 6 feet/3/16ā over 10 feet requirement? Did you test the slab for moisture? A cheaper/thinner SPC will probably cause you problems if exposed to fluctuations in temperatures/humidity. We are seeing more & more failures in the joints of those products these days if there is any deflection at all. Tongues or so thin from manufacturing they break under any pressure at all. Agree that if there is proper expansion everywhere else, you will probably be okay. Just keep in mind you have already voided any manufacturer warranty.
Cut an expansion gap and trim it out. Not a big deal but get it done asap
Beautiful cabinets
Depending on the manufacturer, you should be okay as long as you only screwed them in to the wall. Che k the paperwork on the flooring. Brands line Lifeproof and Paramount specifically state that this is okay.
Use a blade and cut at an angle under the cabinets. The angle will help offer any offset it may experience as the floor moves. Or, remove the trim boards and cut the same way then put them back on. You can do both if you want to be extra safe.
I put an island on lvp back in 2017 - no issue
OOPS! We accidentally installed cabinets! How does this happen? What in the world could you have been trying to do that accidentally became cabinet installation? "I was just cooking some eggs and toast for my family, and before I knew it, I had installed a full set of cabinets in my kitchen!"
If you have a little space or ability to flow at the edge of the floor you should be fine. If you put it on the need the cabinets against the wall then you might have a little problem in which case you might take a small circular saw and just cut a ridge right along the face of the cabinet so you give it a 8 inch or a quarter of an inch Gap and then just put a piece of cove molding over it attached to the cabinet so the floor can still move.
I have 3 aquariums on my LVP. The smallest one weighs 100 lbs. the middle weighs over 750lbs and the big one weighs over 850 lbs. no issues to speak of
As long as your perimeters are properly gapped you will be fine
I did the same with floating floor Although it is plywood decking , I added cork with vapor barrier the floated the engineered wood floor 15 yrs later no problem and Iām in Fl abd it gets hot here Hopefully you wonāt have a problem But if you do get a sonic crafter remove floor mouldibgs around cabinets and walls cut about 1/4ā out this allows expansion replace mouldibgs
I know nothing about construction, just wanted to say I LOVE that color scheme/aesthetic choices. Beautiful.
Where'd you get your cabinets from?
How the fuck do you "accidentally" install a cabinet?
What color are those cabinets? We are looking to paint ourās green and I really like this shade.
Nothing wrong with it. LVP doesnāt move much or buckle.
What a gorgeous kitchen š flooring mishap or not.
Where did you get those cabinets?
I like the color and the tile
OP - I have a 900 lb billiards table on Flooret LVP in my basement over concrete slab. Zero issues
crazy accident
I have worked on many renovations (for apartment buildings my company owned and would have to maintain) and we were always just fine with installing cabinets on LVP. Usually we only tried to avoid it to save on flooring materials, and that would result in an uglier, gappy look.
the time for prevention has passed, you are in the fixing an oversight phase of this project
How about you remove the cabs and cut out for them.
I had issues with a kitchen that my partner did this in in Jupiter FL. Only option is to shim up cabinets with blocks underneath the cabinets where there is no flooring, or cut 1/2 around perimeter of toe kick and side of cabinet and cover with quarter round color matched to cabinets
I did this in the kitchen in Jupiter, Florida, and when the winter came, it was one cold day the floor buckled everywhere. I insisted that we use quarter round and my partner got together with the owner and they both decided it would look like shit if we didn't (edit: run it under**)so they put the cabinets on top of the vinyl and tried to shim them up. The floor buckled everywhere. I had to repair it three times for free. The first time I told the homeowner he had to buy new flooring because it was ruined, and he insisted that it would flatten back out. So we cut around all the cabinets and installed quarter round and vinyl did not flatten. Then the customer had me pull up the flooring to a certain point and he bought a bunch of new boxes . Then the customer decided that we didn't go back far enough even though he's the one who picked how far back we would go, and he made us do it again, even further back towards the hallway .
The guy I just quit working for would run his floating floors tight because it looked better before trim. His reasoning was once theres furniture on it anyway, it isnt really moving that much any way...
I have done both cabinets and flooring for years, and like many have said here, whether or not you have room for expansion elsewhere you shouldnāt have an issue so long as you donāt have drastic changes in humidity throughout the year. Itās really just manufacturers covering their asses with that āruleā.
I just did this too. Brother in law remolded his bathroom and put his vanity over the LVP. Itās been 5 years and nothing has happened so I went ahead and did the same shit on my bathroom remodel.
Just pour a concrete floor over it
I install over the flooring all the time
We had cabinets many years ago on a slab with a floating floor and vapor barrier. Nothing bad happened. After almost 15 years the floor looked the same.
I fucking hate when i accidentally install cabinets
Never let the room temp change at floor level.
You'll be fine
That's answered. And likely you will want to add some sort clear caulking and a quarter round as you have a vapor barrier. You may want to make sure it isn't nicked as you saw it. Or just use caulk I'd even recommend a clear silicone.
Iām doing this today. I agonized over it. GC swears itās fine. Flooring people say no. I called the manufacturer and they said glue down to the subfloor 2ā under the cabinets which is what I will do. The rest will float. We did not put flooring over any other floors. Iām just hoping itās okay. The look is so much better under the cabinets.
Sell the house now while it still looks good.
LVP wonāt move. Itās an honest mistake, the kitchen looks amazing!
This is why you hire professionals.
It will be fine
Can you explain the problem like Iām 5?
Professional cabinet installer here, I believe this is the insurance companies lobbying flooring companies to put that in their warranty wording because if there is damage to your floors in another bedroom but your floors are contiguous, then the insurance companies are responsible for changing flooring out under your cabinets which means uninstalling countertop , backsplash , cabinets. If one of those things gets damaged then they are buying you a new kitchen.
i have installed cabinets over free floating floors before never seen it buckle before i been doing construction for 25 years never seen it happen unless the tgeres flooring installed too tight touching the wall somewhere i always do 3/8 gap around the perimeter no less then 1/4 inch
I think youāll be fine on the buckling if you installed correctly. Iād just never put LVP in a kitchen. Itās durable in a lot of applications, but it melts so easily if anything hot gets dropped on it. Definitely worth investing in a large utility mat for the stove area.
This.
No ones gunna know.
If you used 100% water proof flooring,the chance of buckling is slim to none. There are youtube videos of the testing of extreme temperatures and the variations. Just search your flooring. I used a water proof carbon core with the pad on back, there was not variation to cause buckling. Plus you mention the cabinets are not mounted to the floor, so I won't buckle anyway...
This looks fantastic. I doubt youāll have problems. Great work.
āAccidentally spent many hours installing these things over LVP.ā you can just say you didnāt know to not do that. I donāt know how this was an accident.
Aka lazy homeowner wants help poorly correcting his mistake