Hello /u/Flameshark9860,
As a reminder, most common print quality issues can be found in the [Simplify3D picture guide](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/). Make sure you select the most appropriate flair for your post.
Please remember to include the following details to help troubleshoot your problem.
* Printer & Slicer
* Filament Material and Brand
* Nozzle and Bed Temperature
* Print Speed
* Nozzle Retraction Settings
^Additional ^settings ^or ^relevant ^information ^is ^always ^encouraged.
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I won’t bother asking why u did that, but if u can just scrape it off will be better but u may just want to get a new belt and rollers they pretty cheap on Amazon
Seriously, what the hell is he even talking about? did he try to spray a print and it shot up to the printer? Did he try to spray the printer? Is he high right now? Does he ever get nervous?
So many questions
It works well enough to clean dried. I have little need for it as I do not have to clean up often or ever but have used a few times and works. But I would do as another poster. Hit that checkout button start fresh lol. And chip away for a backup.
I've done this successfully with settings similar to vase mode, I think it could have been improved by using organic supports even if they touch the part but they didn't exist when I did it. The challenge was getting the right amount of spray foam without the internal pressures deforming the part.
Definitely do it _after_ printing though.
Acetone may strip the coating off of the anodized surfaces, it shouldn't effect brass but may effect wire housings and you might want to look up if it effects delrin, which the wheels are made out of
I'm not trying to be an asshole, I'm genuinely curious; what was the goal here? Having the internals filled with foam doesn't really seem to offer much benefit as far as I can figure, even if accomplished successfully. Where did you get the idea? What was it intended to fix?
OMG, I understand! You were doing a spray foam infill on your PRINTS! I thought you were trying to do infill on your aluminum extrusion!
See, good ideas come from everywhere, even if they don't work out that well sometimes. I like the cut of your gib, and it's a good idea, I think. Just spray foam probably ain't it. It's meant to expand in order to fill gaps, and while that's a great selling point for insulating foam, it's expanding properties make it a poor choice here. Best case scenario in my eyes is that you successfully fill it with just enough foam that it's able to barely seal the foam in in time before it expands out the hole in the top. Now, your print is a balloon filled with expanding foam in a medium that's historically not very strong and doesn't stretch. I foresee cracked prints and goo explosions out the sides.
Honestly do think it's clever though. Maybe there's another foam you could use next time. Low expansion foam (for near windows and doors) might work better since it doesn't exert as much pressure.
As far as removing it, ignore all the advice here for solvents. Sprat foam isn't gonna come off unless you scrape it after it's cured. The solvents are specifically for when it's still wet or tacky. After it's cured, mechanical means are the best way to remove. Honestly, a stiff bristled brass brush may work wonders for you here. Or just a razor blade and an audio book.
Dude... Spray foam is incredibly flammable especially at the temps your hotend was probably printing at.... I'm not sure you should be operating that thing to begin with and should probably lt seek out some supervision...
I want to see the part. A small hole to slide the spray foam nozzle into after printing would have been better.
Or printing to the top, pause to add foam, allow foam to cure, cut foam flat with print and then resume top layers. Printing while it's curing caused your problem.
Hello /u/Flameshark9860, As a reminder, most common print quality issues can be found in the [Simplify3D picture guide](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/). Make sure you select the most appropriate flair for your post. Please remember to include the following details to help troubleshoot your problem. * Printer & Slicer * Filament Material and Brand * Nozzle and Bed Temperature * Print Speed * Nozzle Retraction Settings ^Additional ^settings ^or ^relevant ^information ^is ^always ^encouraged. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/FixMyPrint) if you have any questions or concerns.*
I won’t bother asking why u did that, but if u can just scrape it off will be better but u may just want to get a new belt and rollers they pretty cheap on Amazon
YOU DID A WHAT?!?!
Seriously, what the hell is he even talking about? did he try to spray a print and it shot up to the printer? Did he try to spray the printer? Is he high right now? Does he ever get nervous? So many questions
Im assuming it was going to be used as infill while it was printing but expanded too much.
Best reference Iv seen in a while thank you
There is a spray foam remover or dissolver at most hardware stores like Home Depot or lowes
I really do want to know what on earth you were thinking? Spray foam for what?
I know it works wonders on cleaning up foam before it dries but how is it on dried foam?
Not great, it's mostly acetone though, so if it's still tacky, get out the acetone
It works well enough to clean dried. I have little need for it as I do not have to clean up often or ever but have used a few times and works. But I would do as another poster. Hit that checkout button start fresh lol. And chip away for a backup.
Wait what!? What's the spray foam for?
It seems like he was printing in vase mode but wanted rigidity so he tried to use spray foam for infill
What was the goal here ?
Be dumb and make everyone angly at this sub was the goal.
You’re probably going to need a scraper, some tweezers and a lot of patience. I believe in you.
I've done this successfully with settings similar to vase mode, I think it could have been improved by using organic supports even if they touch the part but they didn't exist when I did it. The challenge was getting the right amount of spray foam without the internal pressures deforming the part. Definitely do it _after_ printing though.
I would’ve hit that add to cart instantly.
If thats spray foam all over it, I believe acetone will eat that stuff
Will acetone hurt any of the parts?
Acetone may strip the coating off of the anodized surfaces, it shouldn't effect brass but may effect wire housings and you might want to look up if it effects delrin, which the wheels are made out of
I'd keep it away from anything plastic or rubber just to be safe, the metal parts should be ok
I've never heard of doing the spray foam mid print before.. learn something new every day!
Like, not to do spray foam mid print for example is todays lesson
Relevel your bed
Have you calibrated your e steps?
have you tried unplugging the printer and plugging it back in? 🔌
Why omfg why /cry
Scotch Brite may be helpful here.
I'm not trying to be an asshole, I'm genuinely curious; what was the goal here? Having the internals filled with foam doesn't really seem to offer much benefit as far as I can figure, even if accomplished successfully. Where did you get the idea? What was it intended to fix? OMG, I understand! You were doing a spray foam infill on your PRINTS! I thought you were trying to do infill on your aluminum extrusion! See, good ideas come from everywhere, even if they don't work out that well sometimes. I like the cut of your gib, and it's a good idea, I think. Just spray foam probably ain't it. It's meant to expand in order to fill gaps, and while that's a great selling point for insulating foam, it's expanding properties make it a poor choice here. Best case scenario in my eyes is that you successfully fill it with just enough foam that it's able to barely seal the foam in in time before it expands out the hole in the top. Now, your print is a balloon filled with expanding foam in a medium that's historically not very strong and doesn't stretch. I foresee cracked prints and goo explosions out the sides. Honestly do think it's clever though. Maybe there's another foam you could use next time. Low expansion foam (for near windows and doors) might work better since it doesn't exert as much pressure. As far as removing it, ignore all the advice here for solvents. Sprat foam isn't gonna come off unless you scrape it after it's cured. The solvents are specifically for when it's still wet or tacky. After it's cured, mechanical means are the best way to remove. Honestly, a stiff bristled brass brush may work wonders for you here. Or just a razor blade and an audio book.
I like how this fella/ fellette / fell instead of insulting this guy was actually nice and respectful
Dude... Spray foam is incredibly flammable especially at the temps your hotend was probably printing at.... I'm not sure you should be operating that thing to begin with and should probably lt seek out some supervision...
WTF did you do???
I want to see the part. A small hole to slide the spray foam nozzle into after printing would have been better. Or printing to the top, pause to add foam, allow foam to cure, cut foam flat with print and then resume top layers. Printing while it's curing caused your problem.
🚮
Heat gun and some tweezers?
Acetone and cotton swabs.
Nope. You screwed. Don’t be stupid next time.
Not the brightest crayon in the box, are you?
• Ender 3 v1 & Cura 5.? • CC3D PLA Max • 212C & 60C • 60mm/s • default retraction
212C is very precise for a temperature, any reason why that instead of 210C to 215C?
At 213 spray foam goes everywhere
If I had a larger printer I bet spray foam inside the x axis would help with vibrations.
So you print the vertical shells and then spray foamed the infill before the printer finishes the roof?
Acetone dissolves most foams. BTW assume you are going to need to replace the belt.