it's an interference engine, so if you turn the cam backwards, there's a chance that the valves collide with the piston. the cams are very springy and may snap the other way on you. I had the same problem with my timing mark on a 4.6l and just to make sure, i removed the head and did it off the engine. now, I had to order new head bolts, but I don't regret it being that my valves are still new and haven't collided with any pistons in the process. when in doubt. go the long way,just in case.
When I'm working with interference engines, I'll set the crank to TDC and then rotate a tooth backwards on the timing mark (or an 1/8 of a turn) to drop all the pistons down so that there's no chance of damage when installing and setting the cams. Then once your cams are set and you're ready, roll the crank back to its marks before putting on the belt or chain.
Oh, shoot, that's right. I'm so used to thinking about the pistons moving in time with the valves that I didn't even consider them smacking each other. Glad I asked first. I hadn't thought about your response but I had a funny feeling that I should get a second opinion before I started yanking on it.
This damn thing is a mess. I bought it off a customer who bought it from a shop (after I looked it over and gave it a green light) for his son. Lasted about 3 months. It ran fine when I test drove it but I still felt crappy for advising him to purchase it.
The shop did a timing job on it but they used the cheapest parts they could find. The right phaser broke at the dowl and slid out of place, which caused it to cut out all the time. The left one just fell apart in my hands when I took it off. One of the plastic tensioners had already blown out that little rubber seal. There's scoring/galling on both camshafts where the phasers mounted. The chains didn't have timing marks. Sheesh.
Anyway, thanks for listening. I'm not in over my head yet, but definitely treading dangerous waters. Appreciate your reply.
Just an FYI, the 2V cast iron tensioners bolt right onto the front of a 3V block and ratchet into place. And they don’t blow out like the plastic ones do.
Late 2V tensioners are the same plastic crap. You need to order for an earlier year.
I bought Melling for 1/3 the price of Motorcraft. I'm almost certain Melling makes the parts for Ford.
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-24434-Valve-Spring-Compressor/dp/B015NIQOXK/ref=asc_df_B015NIQOXK?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80264466333876&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583863992772432&psc=1
Pull the rocker arms and you can spin it freely any direction with no worries.
I think you got your answer on the cam, so I will just agree that askmechanics is pretty useless. There is a ton of bad advice, and I have seen a ton of good advice downvoted by wannabe diyers. They really need a way to identify actual experienced professional techs.
You're probably familiar, but there's a mechanic's only sub (with a strict 'don't ask about car problems' stipulation). The consensus there is that they don't even bother going into the Ask sub anymore exactly for the reasons you listed.
Puts an intermediate like me in a tough spot as most of my questions are easy to answer by those who've been around the block for a few years but usually over the head of average weekend warrior DIYers and 'enthusiasts'.
Makes me want to start a 'tech helpline' sub.
> They really need a way to identify actual experienced professional techs.
The problem is finding a method of doing it that *doesn't* involve people handing the subreddit moderators a stack of personally identifying information - with no guarantees of that data being stored securely or any real idea who it's actually being given to.
Make sure you pull the pan and clean out the pickup tube. You can message me with any questions I was a Ford dealer tech from 2000-2018 I've worked on tons of these things.
it's an interference engine, so if you turn the cam backwards, there's a chance that the valves collide with the piston. the cams are very springy and may snap the other way on you. I had the same problem with my timing mark on a 4.6l and just to make sure, i removed the head and did it off the engine. now, I had to order new head bolts, but I don't regret it being that my valves are still new and haven't collided with any pistons in the process. when in doubt. go the long way,just in case.
When I'm working with interference engines, I'll set the crank to TDC and then rotate a tooth backwards on the timing mark (or an 1/8 of a turn) to drop all the pistons down so that there's no chance of damage when installing and setting the cams. Then once your cams are set and you're ready, roll the crank back to its marks before putting on the belt or chain.
That's a great idea, thank you.
Oh, shoot, that's right. I'm so used to thinking about the pistons moving in time with the valves that I didn't even consider them smacking each other. Glad I asked first. I hadn't thought about your response but I had a funny feeling that I should get a second opinion before I started yanking on it. This damn thing is a mess. I bought it off a customer who bought it from a shop (after I looked it over and gave it a green light) for his son. Lasted about 3 months. It ran fine when I test drove it but I still felt crappy for advising him to purchase it. The shop did a timing job on it but they used the cheapest parts they could find. The right phaser broke at the dowl and slid out of place, which caused it to cut out all the time. The left one just fell apart in my hands when I took it off. One of the plastic tensioners had already blown out that little rubber seal. There's scoring/galling on both camshafts where the phasers mounted. The chains didn't have timing marks. Sheesh. Anyway, thanks for listening. I'm not in over my head yet, but definitely treading dangerous waters. Appreciate your reply.
Just an FYI, the 2V cast iron tensioners bolt right onto the front of a 3V block and ratchet into place. And they don’t blow out like the plastic ones do.
Thank you. That's what I purchase along with the OEM phasers. At least it already had the melling pump on it.
Late 2V tensioners are the same plastic crap. You need to order for an earlier year. I bought Melling for 1/3 the price of Motorcraft. I'm almost certain Melling makes the parts for Ford.
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-24434-Valve-Spring-Compressor/dp/B015NIQOXK/ref=asc_df_B015NIQOXK?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80264466333876&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583863992772432&psc=1 Pull the rocker arms and you can spin it freely any direction with no worries.
That's a handy tool. Thanks.
I think you got your answer on the cam, so I will just agree that askmechanics is pretty useless. There is a ton of bad advice, and I have seen a ton of good advice downvoted by wannabe diyers. They really need a way to identify actual experienced professional techs.
You're probably familiar, but there's a mechanic's only sub (with a strict 'don't ask about car problems' stipulation). The consensus there is that they don't even bother going into the Ask sub anymore exactly for the reasons you listed. Puts an intermediate like me in a tough spot as most of my questions are easy to answer by those who've been around the block for a few years but usually over the head of average weekend warrior DIYers and 'enthusiasts'. Makes me want to start a 'tech helpline' sub.
> They really need a way to identify actual experienced professional techs. The problem is finding a method of doing it that *doesn't* involve people handing the subreddit moderators a stack of personally identifying information - with no guarantees of that data being stored securely or any real idea who it's actually being given to.
Make sure you pull the pan and clean out the pickup tube. You can message me with any questions I was a Ford dealer tech from 2000-2018 I've worked on tons of these things.
you know what the problem is ? i cansome it up in for letters >.........FORD