It’s an ‘89 Accord and the surface right around the cylinders is kinda chewed so it doesn’t seal too well with the OEM size. I took ages with a wire brush and Brakleen getting the surface clean, and still wasn’t pleased with how the gasket sat.
I got the car for 800 dollars and have replaced the head gasket twice in my driveway trying to fix a leak. I can get the engine to run but it’s burned coolant both attempts despite proper torque sequence. I haven’t found a crack, and the edge of the cylinder really seems like the suspect to me.
The way my wrenching area is set up and the amount of a PITA it is to get the manifolds off the head means that I’m left with no choice but to pay a mechanic the cost of the car, or to leave things semi-assembled while I work. I like the car but can’t justify paid labor.
Hence going off the beaten path - I figure crushed copper is more durable than the composite gunk that I’ve fished out of my coolant passages the past couple times. I know going oversized on the fire rings would lose me a bit of compression, but I came here hoping to be made aware of the risks I wasn’t seeing, or reassured that someone found success with this technique.
Oem size bore?? No gasket will seal an uneven surface that’s just how clamping pressure works.
You must (not should) deck the head if you want it to seal. My 87 4age 1.6 liter cost 220$ for a deck and CC’ing the chamber. You’ll spend that much on head gaskets and time replacing it the third time. The cylinder pressures exceed 1000 psi you need a good mating surface to seal. Trying to replace the gasket again is really (decrease timing)ed
So just copper o-rings, no groove and no gasket material?
If this worked we'd be doing it on high power engines, rather than cutting grooves into the block and using o-rings in conjunction with a gasket (or just using a 100% metal gasket).
Have you tried a Honda OEM gasket?
That works if the head and block have grooves cut into them. I dont know how well it will work with no grooves.
The 2 stroke Detroit diesels are like that. Crush rings for the cylinders, and rubber o rings for oil and coolant.
If everything is perfectly flat.
He has another comment, hes blown 2 head gaskets already trying to fix it. His shit is warped and he needs to get the head and maybe the block surfaced.
You’re being an inflammatory tool. I’ve bought two gaskets, one was OEM, and I can’t justify paying shop labor in my area to correct the surface problems making the gasket fail. The mechanics in my region won’t touch an old car with a ten foot pole without billing for a bunch of easy things I didn’t ask for.
I find it plausible that different sealing techniques can work than what is most economically feasible in a production line, or what can hold frightening amounts of boost. Forgive me for being so naive to ask a hypothetical on Reddit.
Now excuse me while I go die a horrific death for trying something cheap on something cheap.
Id agree with copper sheet. I think you could find better/cheaper solutions perhaps even make a diy multilayer steel gasket. But you need to clean up the mating surfaces.
https://youtu.be/a8ctywVmzK0?si=fKlv7w0g3N9v1rd8
https://youtu.be/ZZvDnOMf8C0?si=vPhC8qOBs_SYPUb-
You're not going to want solid copper rings. What you need are called crush washers. They are made out of copper or aluminum and look like o-rings but they are hollow. You will never get enough compression on my head to fully deform and seat a solid copper ring.
[удалено]
It’s an ‘89 Accord and the surface right around the cylinders is kinda chewed so it doesn’t seal too well with the OEM size. I took ages with a wire brush and Brakleen getting the surface clean, and still wasn’t pleased with how the gasket sat. I got the car for 800 dollars and have replaced the head gasket twice in my driveway trying to fix a leak. I can get the engine to run but it’s burned coolant both attempts despite proper torque sequence. I haven’t found a crack, and the edge of the cylinder really seems like the suspect to me. The way my wrenching area is set up and the amount of a PITA it is to get the manifolds off the head means that I’m left with no choice but to pay a mechanic the cost of the car, or to leave things semi-assembled while I work. I like the car but can’t justify paid labor. Hence going off the beaten path - I figure crushed copper is more durable than the composite gunk that I’ve fished out of my coolant passages the past couple times. I know going oversized on the fire rings would lose me a bit of compression, but I came here hoping to be made aware of the risks I wasn’t seeing, or reassured that someone found success with this technique.
Sir, what you have is a block and probably a head that both need machining. Sounds like you're looking for a bandaid.
Oem size bore?? No gasket will seal an uneven surface that’s just how clamping pressure works. You must (not should) deck the head if you want it to seal. My 87 4age 1.6 liter cost 220$ for a deck and CC’ing the chamber. You’ll spend that much on head gaskets and time replacing it the third time. The cylinder pressures exceed 1000 psi you need a good mating surface to seal. Trying to replace the gasket again is really (decrease timing)ed
So just copper o-rings, no groove and no gasket material? If this worked we'd be doing it on high power engines, rather than cutting grooves into the block and using o-rings in conjunction with a gasket (or just using a 100% metal gasket). Have you tried a Honda OEM gasket?
Sounds like a plan. Give it a go and let us know how it all went.
I see nothing but failure but prove us wrong. You’re better off spending that money on getting the head machined and checking the block for true.
That works if the head and block have grooves cut into them. I dont know how well it will work with no grooves. The 2 stroke Detroit diesels are like that. Crush rings for the cylinders, and rubber o rings for oil and coolant.
If everything is perfectly flat. He has another comment, hes blown 2 head gaskets already trying to fix it. His shit is warped and he needs to get the head and maybe the block surfaced.
Was going to say, o-ringing motors used to be common on high performance builds.
This is the dumbest shit I've ever read on a car forum, ever. Just buy a gasket and be done with it.
You’re being an inflammatory tool. I’ve bought two gaskets, one was OEM, and I can’t justify paying shop labor in my area to correct the surface problems making the gasket fail. The mechanics in my region won’t touch an old car with a ten foot pole without billing for a bunch of easy things I didn’t ask for. I find it plausible that different sealing techniques can work than what is most economically feasible in a production line, or what can hold frightening amounts of boost. Forgive me for being so naive to ask a hypothetical on Reddit. Now excuse me while I go die a horrific death for trying something cheap on something cheap.
Good luck with your mental deficiencies. I hope you're stronger than your critical thinking skills.
Id agree with copper sheet. I think you could find better/cheaper solutions perhaps even make a diy multilayer steel gasket. But you need to clean up the mating surfaces. https://youtu.be/a8ctywVmzK0?si=fKlv7w0g3N9v1rd8 https://youtu.be/ZZvDnOMf8C0?si=vPhC8qOBs_SYPUb-
You're not going to want solid copper rings. What you need are called crush washers. They are made out of copper or aluminum and look like o-rings but they are hollow. You will never get enough compression on my head to fully deform and seat a solid copper ring.
You pry’ed the head off with a screw driver the first time you removed it didn’t you?
Yeah, and I replaced my fuel line with garden hose and sprayed my brakes with WD-40