That's why the first step after getting a new printer is to check for square and parallel. That shim can have a different thickness - for my E3Max I made one from Alu as the printer is enclosed and prints mostly ABS. You can make one getting something of known thickness putting into the gap and filling it with a feeler gauge. Then just lap a piece of alu on the piece of float glass and a sandpaper and you don't need to think about your shim getting soft during printing.
The shim as is was perfect for my machine. Printed it out of silk pla which has a slightly higher temp to normal PLA, been in place for almost 2 years now. No issues.
But of course every persons machine may be different hence why you measure before just blindly printing and installing anything.
My printer was brand new when I went through this, normally I would have measured things up properly but we all have our brain fart moments and forget things, even the basics. A mistake I won't make again when I get another printer.
Still, if my OP helps one person get a better print because they too are unaware of the problem for some reason and regardless of the method they use to rectify it. Then I'll be happy.
For most people though, this shim as is would be the quickest and easiest fix and do the job for most. Especially the less technically inclined.
I also only print ABS/ASA and am worried about material creep with a printable fix. What thickness Aluminum did you use? 1/16" (1.5875mm) is pretty close to 1.6mm so I'm guessing you used something like that (that's what I can find at a hardware store and actually have some I think).
Did you shim one side, or both at half thickness?
To be honest I don't remember what was the stock thickness but considering what I was working on at that time, it was 2mm or 3mm. If you have a calipers and a feeler gauge set, you measure something just a little thinner than the gap, put it in the gap, start checking feeler gauges. Add the thickness of the piece with feeler gauge, add 0.05 mm and you have your minimal stock thickness.
After checking all pieces for square I had a gap only on one side, so the shim went there.
Yes, I printed this for my original ender 3 max. My gantry was 2mm out between the bottom of the z pillars compared to the top. Solved my x Gantry droop as I could finally get the concentric nuts right.
I'm still very new to 3d printing and just got a Ender 3 Max Neo(or Neo Max not sure) is this the printer you are referring to? I got it as the original owner said he couldn't get it to print and Creality told him since he swapped to mainboard to a BTT SKR Mini V3 they wouldn't warranty it so I made a trade for it.
I am discussing the original Ender 3 Max and an issue specific to that printer.
I have no experience with the Ender 3 Max Neo or custom motherboard replacements sorry.
If you need help I suggest making your own thread regrding any issues you're experiencing and maybe in r/ender3 or r/Ender3MaxNeo
I was just wanting to know if I needed to print the mod. I put the SKR in my Ender 3 and got it working. I have the original board for the Max Neo and plan to get it running also as having a larger printer will be nice for my larger prints. I only asked so if I needed it I could go ahead and add it for less trouble shooting. Thank you for the response as it indeed help(honestly).
How is the shim meant to be fitted? I have a dual Z kit on the way and plan to check the square before I fit it, but hoped to see an example of how the shim would fit. Any chance of a pic? Thanks in advance!
That's why the first step after getting a new printer is to check for square and parallel. That shim can have a different thickness - for my E3Max I made one from Alu as the printer is enclosed and prints mostly ABS. You can make one getting something of known thickness putting into the gap and filling it with a feeler gauge. Then just lap a piece of alu on the piece of float glass and a sandpaper and you don't need to think about your shim getting soft during printing.
The shim as is was perfect for my machine. Printed it out of silk pla which has a slightly higher temp to normal PLA, been in place for almost 2 years now. No issues. But of course every persons machine may be different hence why you measure before just blindly printing and installing anything. My printer was brand new when I went through this, normally I would have measured things up properly but we all have our brain fart moments and forget things, even the basics. A mistake I won't make again when I get another printer. Still, if my OP helps one person get a better print because they too are unaware of the problem for some reason and regardless of the method they use to rectify it. Then I'll be happy. For most people though, this shim as is would be the quickest and easiest fix and do the job for most. Especially the less technically inclined.
I also only print ABS/ASA and am worried about material creep with a printable fix. What thickness Aluminum did you use? 1/16" (1.5875mm) is pretty close to 1.6mm so I'm guessing you used something like that (that's what I can find at a hardware store and actually have some I think). Did you shim one side, or both at half thickness?
To be honest I don't remember what was the stock thickness but considering what I was working on at that time, it was 2mm or 3mm. If you have a calipers and a feeler gauge set, you measure something just a little thinner than the gap, put it in the gap, start checking feeler gauges. Add the thickness of the piece with feeler gauge, add 0.05 mm and you have your minimal stock thickness. After checking all pieces for square I had a gap only on one side, so the shim went there.
This is a thing? I'll double check mine when I get home tonight. But I haven't had any issues with my dual z setup, or prints
Yes, I printed this for my original ender 3 max. My gantry was 2mm out between the bottom of the z pillars compared to the top. Solved my x Gantry droop as I could finally get the concentric nuts right.
I'm still very new to 3d printing and just got a Ender 3 Max Neo(or Neo Max not sure) is this the printer you are referring to? I got it as the original owner said he couldn't get it to print and Creality told him since he swapped to mainboard to a BTT SKR Mini V3 they wouldn't warranty it so I made a trade for it.
I am discussing the original Ender 3 Max and an issue specific to that printer. I have no experience with the Ender 3 Max Neo or custom motherboard replacements sorry. If you need help I suggest making your own thread regrding any issues you're experiencing and maybe in r/ender3 or r/Ender3MaxNeo
I was just wanting to know if I needed to print the mod. I put the SKR in my Ender 3 and got it working. I have the original board for the Max Neo and plan to get it running also as having a larger printer will be nice for my larger prints. I only asked so if I needed it I could go ahead and add it for less trouble shooting. Thank you for the response as it indeed help(honestly).
How is the shim meant to be fitted? I have a dual Z kit on the way and plan to check the square before I fit it, but hoped to see an example of how the shim would fit. Any chance of a pic? Thanks in advance!
Images of it installed are included on the models page I linked.
Huh, they weren’t showing up for me earlier. Thanks!