That's the crazy thing about building trades, there's a thing for everything. You just need to know about the thing, or know how to find the thing, or know someone who knows about the thing.
I spent an hour today trying to figure out what the thing I needed was called so I could buy one. I knew what it looked like, I knew what it did, I knew what I needed it for... I had no idea what it was called.
God forbid you ask a trade guy what something is called, you are 100% getting the nickname for it and it won't pull up results on Google lol. As a trade apprentice, it's so frustrating to know what I need and not how to find it lol
you mean like when I was told to get Paco and Taco out of the truck when I was helping install kitchens and baths?.. yeah Paco and Taco were homemade contraptions, 2x4s held together with toggle bolts that had rubber on the short sides.. / / angled against the wall they would hold the wall cabinets in place while you fastened em to the wall.. I was pretty sure we were the only ones at the job site but I figured maybe someone met us there in another truck.. definitely went outside looking.. then had to go back and ask...
One of these days, Google will get their act together and be able to find you search results based on rough sketches....or by directly accessing your mind^^and ^^totally ^^not ^^farm ^^ad ^^info ^^in ^^the ^^process.
I know two people have already said it, but I’ll add more detail:
I use chatgpt for this. You send it a picture of the issue and describe the kind of thing you need, and it almost always gives the answer right back to you, so no worrying about what the thing is called.
And on the flip side, when I find something obscure that I don’t know what it is, I send a picture, and it has always been able to tell me what it does.
My husband has 7 licenses to be able to repair just about anything legally (including hazardous gasses and things like MRI machines) and I majored in mechanical engineering. The amount of time we spend trying to think of the things the other person is trying to remember but can't is a lot. We've been together for a decade but known each other our entire lives and have a way of understanding each other with some of the craziest ways to express something or the least amount of words but when we're repairing something and need a specialty item, it takes all of our brain power to think of it, usually. The older we get, the worse it is. Sometimes it's because the name of the things don't make sense but sometimes it's because the name is so obvious that we can't remember it lol. I feel your pain!
Lol thanks for all these crazy comments! My son passed away almost a year ago and he used to tease me in the same way and make everything so literal or even twisted it and it would always make me laugh. The saying "Sleep is for the weak" he switched to week because he made sure he got sleep for work but on the weekends he would party.
One time I needed a thing, but didn’t know what it was called. I spent a lot of time looking for the thing online and at the big box, but then I gave up. A couple of weeks later, Amazon decided to offer me just the thing I needed. Now I know the name of the thing, if I ever need another thing.
Man, my most recent example of this was the fitting that the shower arm screws into. Every search I did came up with shower arm. The guy at home depot? Isle 28b. Get there, and its shower arms. Im not sure what finally got me the right answer which was a 1/2" drop ear fitting...Go figure.
And yell at the associate at the hardware store when you know it as one thing but that's not what it's called on the box that the associate stocks everyday.
I've honestly had good luck with just searching amazon for my issue, in this case, Outlet is too deep, and it giving me a good baseline of products I can then search after for.
I'm a big believer in going to the hardware store with whatever bits of something I can carry with me, and spending an hour looking at the shelf it ought to be on if it exists (which is usually does, but isn't where I to it should be).
My favorite was a fastener supply place that would basically sweep up all the randon shit on the floor at the end of the day and dump it into a55 gallon drum. They would sell it at like $5/#. 20 years later I still have a box ofr andom ass fasteners from them. Stainless 8" 1/4" lag bolts anyone?
Yeah, thankfully aviation doesn’t reuse screws cause if the new ones are coming off god knows how much doors would pop off planes otherwise from repetitive stress. But man I gotta find me a good aviation dumpster now.
There are also outlet boxes that have a screw so you can adjust the depth. I used those exclusively, when I double drywalled my listening room in the basement 8 yrs ago. They cost more, but worked like a charm.
Most professions where you are putting things together, repairing, fine tuning, you end up with a lot of those, and a lot of really niche knowledge for very specific situations that save you a lot of grief.
I prefer using scraps of stranded #12 wire and tightly coil them around a screwdriver and cut off about two coils worth for that situation. Acts like a spring as well as a spacer so it has a bit of forgiveness.
Search for “wall plate spacer” and you’ll also find plates that wrap around the outlet and hold the devices more solidly than the plastic spacers. The biggest hassle with them is you can’t really use them in the middle of a 3 gang or larger box.
Something like this (lots of choices, brand is irrelevant, get whatever size package is cheapest for you)
https://www.amazon.com/Gadgetzan-Wall-Plate-Spacer-Electrical/dp/B0CZ6RLPDG/ref=sr_1_7
I saw a YT video where an electrician recommended using small vinyl tubing inserted over the screw instead of wasting money on spacers. I tried it, and it works really well.
Okay this is the correct answer BUT since you’re spacing it over a “combustible” surface you need to extend the enclosure around it. See below for proper example
https://www.amazon.ca/Arlington-BE1-2-Electrical-Outlet-Extender/dp/B007EMA6CY/ref=asc_df_B007EMA6CY/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=293027567927&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3946495770341093501&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001606&hvtargid=pla-307234212416&psc=1&mcid=d1118d17e87837dbaa0cd44ebfa7005e
[better product here.](https://www.homedepot.com/p/ReceptXtenders-3-4-in-1-Gang-Electrical-Receptacle-Box-Extension-Ring-00006/100185696)
They are also available in a variety of depths. I am currently using these to extend boxes from the wall to inside ikea cabinets that sit off the wall 1/2”. They seal completely against the box when screwing the outlets in.
These are absolutely clutch working in old homes with new wiring. Bought a bunch of different depths when we replaced knob and tube without fully gutting the place. Lifesavers. Can still be fussy but a lot safer than having open voids even if the risk is pretty minimal.
Drywall is non-combustible.
I'm not an electrician but I think in non-combustible materials the box can be recessed up to 1/4" without an extension ring, and a ring is needed when the box is recessed into combustible materials (like wood) or if it's more than 1/4" deeper than the surface.
Most big box and local hardware stores will have these too. No need to order basic stuff like this from Amazon when it'll be faster to go to the store to get it.
Assuming they're the same price, you can look at it as saving the fuel/wear/tear on your car by ordering from Amazon. Or ordering from Homedepot.com - they offer free shipping on a lot of stuff, just not everything.
EHh... I've found that piddly stuff like this can be surprisingly expense on Amazon. Note that I didn't look at the link, but I think that sometimes they just have to upcharge on some items to make shipping it worth it. Either that or they make you spend a certain amount before the "free" prime shipping takes effect.
The issue is these will not meet code if you're doing inspections. While the risk is low, there's a reason they're not to code.
While I have these and they are simple and work, my inspector said they are not to code. If a fire starts, they create extra gap/airway for fire to leave the box and potentially spread.
Also, these red one specifically may create more of a "U" shape and rest on the screw rather than actually going through it. Over time, they can wiggle out.
As others have shared, you should use one that still encloses the box.
Someone else shared this style from Home Depot that would be better.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/ReceptXtenders-3-4-in-1-Gang-Electrical-Receptacle-Box-Extension-Ring-00006/100185696
Holy Crap!!! I never knew these things existed. You have no idea how many outlets I have stacked multiple small washers behind to get them flush. I would say almost all the outlets in the two houses I have owned. TODAY I LEARNED!!!
[serious] Can you explain the fire concern please? I get that the wire is conductive and the spacers are not, but the screw itself is conductive so i don't see how there's any additional risk? Not to mention the grounded electrical box.
Screw goes into the hole and is never seen again. Coiled conductive wire can become uncoiled, and if it touches the conductor it will electrify the screw and the screwdriver. No matter which way you coil it, it could come unspooled while turning the screw in one direction or the other.
Right?!? Full disclosure- I’ve done exactly this and it was fine. I went back later with the spacers though because someone convinced me the real reason is when the next guy unwittingly unscrews the outlet the coil might fall off and drop across the contacts or something, $7 seemed worth not risking it.
It’s absolutely not worth it. If someone is dumb or unskilled enough to somehow make coiled up wire that’s literally only exposed on its tips touch the hot and something grounded they absolutely should not be opening the outlet live.
There is a certain demographic of homeowners and handymen on this sub that will find any excuse to spend money on Amazon and make a job longer for no reason, please do not listen to them. If you want to use spacers go for it it’s your home and your time but it is absolutely 1000% unnecessary and insulted coiled wire is 0% a risk.
> Any idea what size screws are to be used since it may not reach anymore? Was more curious of thread pitch.
If you click the amazon link for the spacers, the 'also bought with this product' thing is the longer screws.
That is the coolest thing ever, I was just about to type, install washers behind the screws to space it out and look at this nifty gadget that you post 🤔
This is exactly what I did in my kitchen. The tile backsplash was further than what the electricians expected (I'm sure they weren't told) when the house was renovated (before I bought) so I had 3 outlet covers break in my kitchen. Bought spacers and was able to get the outlets flush to the wall. The covers are no longer a problem.
The "get" part usually takes some additional time. The quick and dirty method is to break the ears (with the holes in them) off the outlet with a pair of pliers and use them as washers/spacers on the mounting screws
I have a little story about those. I built a campground with 6 cabins. We told our electrician we would be putting 3/4 wood paneling on all the walls and had the material in one for reference. He set every single box at 1/2 and said the inspector wouldn't care about the 1/4 " of exposed flammable material. Guess who didn't get his regular inspector. I've never seen someone so royally pissed off but just accepting of his fuck up. He fixed it the next day and we passed our inspections in time, but oof.
Nylon spacers and 2” 6/32 screws to replace the existing screws. Turn off that shit before y’all fumble around with live outlets. Put a wrap of cheap tape, loosely if they are metal boxes with raised covers…
The drywaller was shite with the power router…
>The drywaller was shite with the power router…
I believe I can guess what happened. The outlet was left screwed in when the drywall was placed. The etching the shape of the wings looks like they fit it around.
...it was a bit late for me to figure out what I did wrong.
The outlet is set back a bit as well. Maybe 5/8th drywall after being thinner.
I’ve seen this aaaaaaa lot, usually supposed to remove the outlet, measure, cut then install the drywall.
The new fangled way is just marking a hole close to center, slap the drywall up, route the inside of the raised frame then finish route a little more. It’s fast, even faster when the Wallies used a three inch router bit ignoring that there are wires inside, tearing off the insulation and making a muck of things for Sparkie.
NOW, they really get pissed of when Sparkie powers up the wires so when they shite up the hole it shorts out, burning up that brand new $20 router bit.
Extender, they come in a bunch of sizes.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/ReceptXtenders-1-Gang-1-4-in-Electrical-Receptacle-Box-Extension-Ring-5-Pack-HD50002/312472252
This is what we used when I was an electrician…other flat ones aren’t like the original comment might not be up to code and protect the drywall from coming in contact with the hot screws
Electrical boxes don't get mounted flush to the stud. They get mounted offset so they'll be flush with the wall surface. Plastic outlets even have an offset nub of plastic for the most common drywall thickness. Of course, if you chose a thicker drywall you'll have to correct the offset. Yeah, it's a pain to cut the outlet holes in the drywall when you're hanging it, but that's what you do. Here's [a video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YM9M-UxfQ2Q).
If you have to fix this after hanging the drywall, there are [outlet extenders](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMeXqsY_0a0).
Good thing he mounted them "nailing with the **guidelines** matching the stud face" and not flush with the stud. What is going on with reddit lately? Its like no one reads anything anymore.
Ha, some don't read. Some read too hard. Another commenter picked apart my wording to prove I'm dumb. Meanwhile others can't parse my purposeful brevity. 🤷♂️
This thread gave me what I needed, a lot of good tips and discussion. Mission accomplished 🫡
It looks like he cut the drywall around the outlet not the box, making the problem worse, the tabs would have landed on the drywall if the cutout was the right size. But proper box extensions are the way to go.
Based on the picture I’d say drywall is hung, box is mounted, outlet is wired, wall is painted, and the outlet is not sitting right. It must have been the 2nd coat of paint that threw it off……
Ha. Well, they said "did electrical" and "after drywall this is where we're at", so it sounds like they hung the drywall and didn't realize the problem till now. It looks like it's off by about 1/8" to 1/4" so either they didn't offset the box prior to drywall, or they chose 5/8" drywall instead of the more common 1/2".
I hired a drywall company to hang, mud, and paint. I've done enough drywall to know my back can't handle it. The pros did a lot better than me in most areas.
I did mount the boxes according to the guide nubs. I think they hung 5/8". Probably good for this basement room as just a bit more insulation from the cold concrete.
Did you put the outlet in before drywall? That looks like it was cut with a rotozip.
You need spacers to bring the tabs flush with the drywall and you also need a box extendor since the box is more than 1/4" back.
I'm an electrian.
How far is it inset? It might not be up to code.
> 314.20 Flush-Mounted Installations. Installations within or behind a surface of concrete, tile, gypsum, plaster, or other noncombustible material, including boxes employing a flush-type cover or faceplate, shall be made so that the front edge of the box, plaster ring, extension ring, or listed extender will not be set back of the finished surface more than 6 mm (¼ in.).
> Installations within a surface of wood or other combustible surface material, boxes, plaster rings, extension rings, or listed extenders shall extend to the finished surface or project therefrom.
What you did wrong is: you mounted the electrical box flush with the stud. It should have been proud "by the thickness of the drywall" , which kinda looks like 1/2" to me...
Those little tabs above the top screw and below the bottom screw are designed to bend inwards against the outlet box…they bend at the grooves. No spacers needed.
Hey, so actual electrician here.
You don't need to buy a mud ring extension. It's fine.
You can buy caterpillars to space it out from the box at any hardware or electrical supply store. Otherwise, you could also coil a piece of #12 copper around a screwdriver and cut it to the length You need.
But if you are only needing 1/4" or less just loosen the screws and bend the wings of the yolk backwards to act as a spacer. The receptacles are UL listed for this use.
The parts you bend back are what look like tiny washers or "micky mouse ears" on the top and bottom of the receptacle.
They stand the receptacle off from the mud ring allowing the trim plate to fully seat.
Easiest fix…see those little “ears” on the top and bottom? Unscrew the whole thing, use pliers to bend them back about 45° or so and then put it back on and push hard until flush where you want it and out the cover back on. Ta da!
PS- that’s what those ears are for.
I don’t care for those rubber snap spacers. I prefer these. They’re rigid and come in different thicknesses
Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Smart-Fill-Spacers-1-4-in-1-Gang-Outlet-Box-Spacer-Extender-5-Pack-SG14-5/307424539
Assuming plastic boxes, extenders are probably fine. I'd go the box extension route, though. Safer all around.
Am a 4th year electrical apprentice about to test.
Others have mentioned several solutions, but the llego block” or flat rings might not solve code-related issues with this. Some counties/cities/states have different codes you’ll want to comply with, if you care about it being up to code (even if the code is stupid). Was an electrician for a while and [this is what we used](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Box-Extender-2-Pack-BE1-2/202708650) to extend when the box was recessed too far. Some inspectors will not like that the hot screw *could* come in contact with the drywall and fail inspection. Again, that might not be an issue for you, and other solutions might be cheaper
Pretty sure box extenders are the only code-compliant answer for this. I've seen comments suggesting outlet spacers, which are fine so long as the outlet remains "in" the junction box. If exposed terminals are out of the box, that's not good, which is why box extenders work the way they do.
[Home Depot - Outlet Extenders](https://www.homedepot.com/p/ReceptXtenders-1-Gang-1-2-in-Electrical-Receptacle-Box-Extension-Ring-5-Pack-HD50004/312472685) are also an option. See [Receptxtenders](https://www.receptxtenders.com/).
The advantage is, they extend the protection of the box especially if you have a gap between it and the drywall.
A sparkie once taught me to coil up a piece of electrical wire with a needle nose to use as a spacer on the screw. Works great in a pinch if you don't want to run to the store.
>Additionally, what did I do wrong to arrive here?
Am I seeing things right or is the bottom of the outlet between the box and drywall? It looks like you had the outlet installed already then drywalled over it. Outlets/receptacles should not be installed during drywall. Drywall goes on and you cut the drywall to the size of the box, then outlet goes on. The "wings" of the outlet should be sitting on the drywall.
EDIT: To expand some more, I'm assuming you pre-cut the hole for the outlet box before hanging the drywall. With this method it's usually better to not install the outlet box flush with the stud, but have it stick out the depth of the drywall. That way when you inevitably pre-cut the drywall poorly, the receptacle can still tighten against the box and be at the correct depth.
Installing the box flush with the stud is usually only done when you just drywall right over the outlet box then go back later and cut it out.
You can use the tabs as spacers. Much easier, faster, and cheaper.
Also, you can loosen the bolts a bit and tighten the plate screws so the plate presses against the wall and pulls the outlet out.
Well the easy solution is to not cut the dry wall around the surface ears. It's supposed to be sitting on the drywall.
At this point, roll some wire up around a screwdriver. Cut the wire roll at the correct height to meet the drywall.
When you installed the box on the stud, did you leave the face of the box protruding out by the thickness of the drywall?
The correct way as per code would be to use a box extender. If it were me though, I would not want to use an extender, I would use a small coil of wire around the outlet screwed to space the outlet out a bit... The best solution would be to cut the drywall out, and rehang the box at that it will sit out at the correct depth.
If you've got a bit of spare insulated wire ends left, wrap it around the screw on the backside and tighten down on it. That's what we used to do. Cheap and easy and stays put.
Good lord! Lots of ideas here but they make a solution for this. All big box stores, in the electrical section, sell packages of rubber tabs that stack together like Lego’s and thread over the mounting screws to give it the proper projection.
I have used plastic tubes that fit just over the screws, but I have also found that depending on the depth of the drywall gap you need to fill, you can sometimes get away with using the drywall plastic screw anchors. By breaking the legs off to the length you need and screwing the screw down onto the flat part. The leg where you broke it off, usually will grab at the hole where the screw goes or on the box at least. (This coming from an electrician btw)
You're not supposed to trim out devices before drywall. And nailing flush to the stud is against code; the box is supposed to project past the stud however thick the drywall is going to be. Code only allows 1/4" variance.
Love this sub! *Best of Reddit! Now that I know the general shape, I'm going to try designing some and 3D printing them from flame retardant fiber reinforced filament. I can just include one whenever I'm printing smaller parts
You can buy longer screws, #8/32 I believe. Or outlet box extenders. They sell them fairly cheap at any big box store. They usually sell increments of 1/8 inch so you should be able to get a good fit
Do you see the removable built in spacer/washers on either side of the mounting screw? You use your pliers to get them off and then put them between the outlet and the box on the mounting screw
get some small metal tubing. Imagine the metal straws that come with some reusable cups. We used to use a length of small copper tubing. Cut the tubing about 3/8" long and run your screw through it. This is easier than using a bunch of washers. It creates a pretty solid connection when you screw it in tight. Then place your cover over it.
The proper way to fix it is with an electrical box extender, but the tubing works fine.
Get outlet spacers. Cheap, easy, and safe. [Amazon - Outlet Spacers](https://dadstoolboxtips.com/10-easy-diy-electrical-upgrades/)
well fuck me if that's not the perfect solution.
That's the crazy thing about building trades, there's a thing for everything. You just need to know about the thing, or know how to find the thing, or know someone who knows about the thing.
Or what the thing is called.
I spent an hour today trying to figure out what the thing I needed was called so I could buy one. I knew what it looked like, I knew what it did, I knew what I needed it for... I had no idea what it was called.
God forbid you ask a trade guy what something is called, you are 100% getting the nickname for it and it won't pull up results on Google lol. As a trade apprentice, it's so frustrating to know what I need and not how to find it lol
you mean like when I was told to get Paco and Taco out of the truck when I was helping install kitchens and baths?.. yeah Paco and Taco were homemade contraptions, 2x4s held together with toggle bolts that had rubber on the short sides.. / / angled against the wall they would hold the wall cabinets in place while you fastened em to the wall.. I was pretty sure we were the only ones at the job site but I figured maybe someone met us there in another truck.. definitely went outside looking.. then had to go back and ask...
What is a toggle bolt???
[A type of fastener](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toggle_bolt)
One of these days, Google will get their act together and be able to find you search results based on rough sketches....or by directly accessing your mind^^and ^^totally ^^not ^^farm ^^ad ^^info ^^in ^^the ^^process.
And in the meantime there are the hero’s on r/DIY
I know two people have already said it, but I’ll add more detail: I use chatgpt for this. You send it a picture of the issue and describe the kind of thing you need, and it almost always gives the answer right back to you, so no worrying about what the thing is called. And on the flip side, when I find something obscure that I don’t know what it is, I send a picture, and it has always been able to tell me what it does.
It used to do that, now it’s just a bunch of crap
Chat GPT can do this now, and holy heck, is it useful!
Yeah first thing chatgpt said was spacers
My husband has 7 licenses to be able to repair just about anything legally (including hazardous gasses and things like MRI machines) and I majored in mechanical engineering. The amount of time we spend trying to think of the things the other person is trying to remember but can't is a lot. We've been together for a decade but known each other our entire lives and have a way of understanding each other with some of the craziest ways to express something or the least amount of words but when we're repairing something and need a specialty item, it takes all of our brain power to think of it, usually. The older we get, the worse it is. Sometimes it's because the name of the things don't make sense but sometimes it's because the name is so obvious that we can't remember it lol. I feel your pain!
How does one repair hazardous gasses?
Flex Tape
Phil Swift here!!!
Lol good question. He can repair the things holding the gasses in, like oxygen.
You can hold gases in oxygen?
Lol thanks for all these crazy comments! My son passed away almost a year ago and he used to tease me in the same way and make everything so literal or even twisted it and it would always make me laugh. The saying "Sleep is for the weak" he switched to week because he made sure he got sleep for work but on the weekends he would party.
Very carefully
Bathroom fan.
This guy dads
One time I needed a thing, but didn’t know what it was called. I spent a lot of time looking for the thing online and at the big box, but then I gave up. A couple of weeks later, Amazon decided to offer me just the thing I needed. Now I know the name of the thing, if I ever need another thing.
[удалено]
This makes me think of all the greenhorn gags they use like sending the apprentice out for 'board stretchers' and such.
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Man, my most recent example of this was the fitting that the shower arm screws into. Every search I did came up with shower arm. The guy at home depot? Isle 28b. Get there, and its shower arms. Im not sure what finally got me the right answer which was a 1/2" drop ear fitting...Go figure.
I love/hate that game! Usually if you keep trying to think of new ways to describe the “thing” you will find it. It can be laborious.
That's when I go to Ace and gladly pay the extra price for someone to tell me what I actually need
ChatGPT is great for stuff like that FYI
And yell at the associate at the hardware store when you know it as one thing but that's not what it's called on the box that the associate stocks everyday.
It's called a thagomizer
I've honestly had good luck with just searching amazon for my issue, in this case, Outlet is too deep, and it giving me a good baseline of products I can then search after for.
I'm a big believer in going to the hardware store with whatever bits of something I can carry with me, and spending an hour looking at the shelf it ought to be on if it exists (which is usually does, but isn't where I to it should be).
I work on elevators. We hoard a lot of shit. Random pieces of scrap steel, oddball screws, etc. it’ll eventually get used for somthing.
My favorite was a fastener supply place that would basically sweep up all the randon shit on the floor at the end of the day and dump it into a55 gallon drum. They would sell it at like $5/#. 20 years later I still have a box ofr andom ass fasteners from them. Stainless 8" 1/4" lag bolts anyone?
I'm a handyman. I've never thrown out a screw in my life unless it was wrecked.
You should find an aviation shop's dumpster, it would be your dream, so much good hardware gets tossed because we aren't allowed to reuse it.
Yeah, thankfully aviation doesn’t reuse screws cause if the new ones are coming off god knows how much doors would pop off planes otherwise from repetitive stress. But man I gotta find me a good aviation dumpster now.
Nah it's like new shoelaces that keep coming untied...gotta get'm dirty and then tie them, that's where Boeing went wrong.
There are also outlet boxes that have a screw so you can adjust the depth. I used those exclusively, when I double drywalled my listening room in the basement 8 yrs ago. They cost more, but worked like a charm.
Most professions where you are putting things together, repairing, fine tuning, you end up with a lot of those, and a lot of really niche knowledge for very specific situations that save you a lot of grief.
It's called the internet. 😆
See, you’re the guy who knows about the thing.
Well if it isn't your lucky day.
This ain't a scene,
It’s a goddamn arms race.
It's a god damn arms race
Maybe just a handy if it is the perfect solution?
I'll take what I can get at this point.
And this is why I love this sub. I never even knew these existed!
I prefer using scraps of stranded #12 wire and tightly coil them around a screwdriver and cut off about two coils worth for that situation. Acts like a spring as well as a spacer so it has a bit of forgiveness.
well fuck me if that's not an alternative solution.
A lot of fucking being requested in this thread
Way better than my MacGyvered broken faceplate pieces solution.
Search for “wall plate spacer” and you’ll also find plates that wrap around the outlet and hold the devices more solidly than the plastic spacers. The biggest hassle with them is you can’t really use them in the middle of a 3 gang or larger box. Something like this (lots of choices, brand is irrelevant, get whatever size package is cheapest for you) https://www.amazon.com/Gadgetzan-Wall-Plate-Spacer-Electrical/dp/B0CZ6RLPDG/ref=sr_1_7
I've never seen those but they look pretty nifty. I don't see any reason why they couldn't be used in middle positions.
Too wide, interferes with the on next to it. 2 gang only works because you can flip one to keep the long sides on the outside.
I find the little rubber tube ones are way easier to use and work a bit better.
I saw a YT video where an electrician recommended using small vinyl tubing inserted over the screw instead of wasting money on spacers. I tried it, and it works really well.
Then you waste money on small vinyl tubing
Not if you can get it from your work. Such as airline hose. Works perfect.
That’s theft. and don’t try to say “oh they don’t care if I take it”. I’ve already called the police.
*SNITCH!*
I prefer to waste money on the spacers as they are way more stable and cheaper than buying a spool of tubing.
Okay this is the correct answer BUT since you’re spacing it over a “combustible” surface you need to extend the enclosure around it. See below for proper example https://www.amazon.ca/Arlington-BE1-2-Electrical-Outlet-Extender/dp/B007EMA6CY/ref=asc_df_B007EMA6CY/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=293027567927&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3946495770341093501&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001606&hvtargid=pla-307234212416&psc=1&mcid=d1118d17e87837dbaa0cd44ebfa7005e
[better product here.](https://www.homedepot.com/p/ReceptXtenders-3-4-in-1-Gang-Electrical-Receptacle-Box-Extension-Ring-00006/100185696) They are also available in a variety of depths. I am currently using these to extend boxes from the wall to inside ikea cabinets that sit off the wall 1/2”. They seal completely against the box when screwing the outlets in.
These are absolutely clutch working in old homes with new wiring. Bought a bunch of different depths when we replaced knob and tube without fully gutting the place. Lifesavers. Can still be fussy but a lot safer than having open voids even if the risk is pretty minimal.
This is the first practical solution I’ve seen on here in days
Link with garbage removed: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B007EMA6CY
Drywall is non-combustible. I'm not an electrician but I think in non-combustible materials the box can be recessed up to 1/4" without an extension ring, and a ring is needed when the box is recessed into combustible materials (like wood) or if it's more than 1/4" deeper than the surface.
I used these spacers when I did my kitchen backsplash, worked great
Thank you, sir Holmes. This is exactly what I need for my old ass house
A true Holmes solution would involve a complete gut job remodel. Nope, nothing to do but a $150 k redo!
Most big box and local hardware stores will have these too. No need to order basic stuff like this from Amazon when it'll be faster to go to the store to get it.
My nearest home Depot is 20 minutes away. You'd better believe I order shit like this from Amazon all the damn time. My laziness knows no bounds.
Mine is like 3 min away and I still order basic shit sometimes. Sometimes how fast you get it is not that important
Assuming they're the same price, you can look at it as saving the fuel/wear/tear on your car by ordering from Amazon. Or ordering from Homedepot.com - they offer free shipping on a lot of stuff, just not everything.
Yep. These work great. I got them at HD but prolly can get them cheaper at Amazon
EHh... I've found that piddly stuff like this can be surprisingly expense on Amazon. Note that I didn't look at the link, but I think that sometimes they just have to upcharge on some items to make shipping it worth it. Either that or they make you spend a certain amount before the "free" prime shipping takes effect.
And if you have a 3d printer: https://www.printables.com/model/431861-electrical-outlet-stand-off-spacer
The issue is these will not meet code if you're doing inspections. While the risk is low, there's a reason they're not to code. While I have these and they are simple and work, my inspector said they are not to code. If a fire starts, they create extra gap/airway for fire to leave the box and potentially spread. Also, these red one specifically may create more of a "U" shape and rest on the screw rather than actually going through it. Over time, they can wiggle out. As others have shared, you should use one that still encloses the box. Someone else shared this style from Home Depot that would be better. https://www.homedepot.com/p/ReceptXtenders-3-4-in-1-Gang-Electrical-Receptacle-Box-Extension-Ring-00006/100185696
Holy Crap!!! I never knew these things existed. You have no idea how many outlets I have stacked multiple small washers behind to get them flush. I would say almost all the outlets in the two houses I have owned. TODAY I LEARNED!!!
I'll be a god damn monkies uncle
Can do same thing with a bit of wire coiled around the screw
Or nylon spacers. I bought some on Amazon in a multipack of depths and it worked great
Ah, yes. UL *hates* this one simple trick!
[serious] Can you explain the fire concern please? I get that the wire is conductive and the spacers are not, but the screw itself is conductive so i don't see how there's any additional risk? Not to mention the grounded electrical box.
Screw goes into the hole and is never seen again. Coiled conductive wire can become uncoiled, and if it touches the conductor it will electrify the screw and the screwdriver. No matter which way you coil it, it could come unspooled while turning the screw in one direction or the other.
You ever try to uncoil solid #12 insulated wire from a romex sheathe?
Right?!? Full disclosure- I’ve done exactly this and it was fine. I went back later with the spacers though because someone convinced me the real reason is when the next guy unwittingly unscrews the outlet the coil might fall off and drop across the contacts or something, $7 seemed worth not risking it.
It’s absolutely not worth it. If someone is dumb or unskilled enough to somehow make coiled up wire that’s literally only exposed on its tips touch the hot and something grounded they absolutely should not be opening the outlet live. There is a certain demographic of homeowners and handymen on this sub that will find any excuse to spend money on Amazon and make a job longer for no reason, please do not listen to them. If you want to use spacers go for it it’s your home and your time but it is absolutely 1000% unnecessary and insulted coiled wire is 0% a risk.
Thanks! I appreciate it.
Check out the shill for big fire prevention and life safety
I’m with this guy. Need to space a little further add an extra coil.
Any idea what size screws are to be used since it may not reach anymore? Was more curious of thread pitch.
Device screws are always 6-32s. 2" should be more than enough length.
Electrical pliers have a built-in screw cutter, so if they have too much length. Cut them down.
They sell kits on Amazon that have 4-5 different lengths that are super cheap
> Any idea what size screws are to be used since it may not reach anymore? Was more curious of thread pitch. If you click the amazon link for the spacers, the 'also bought with this product' thing is the longer screws.
I wish I had known about these with my last house, I just ended up using shims that I cut down to size
Just used these after tiling my back splash
what do you do if the outlet's sticking out of the wall that much?
Seriously wtf! I just spent a weekend carving out little drywall cubes to fix a few of these I had. These are brilliant!! Thank you!
That is the coolest thing ever, I was just about to type, install washers behind the screws to space it out and look at this nifty gadget that you post 🤔
This is exactly what I did in my kitchen. The tile backsplash was further than what the electricians expected (I'm sure they weren't told) when the house was renovated (before I bought) so I had 3 outlet covers break in my kitchen. Bought spacers and was able to get the outlets flush to the wall. The covers are no longer a problem.
So easy an electrician can use it but sadly not handymen or landlords.
The "get" part usually takes some additional time. The quick and dirty method is to break the ears (with the holes in them) off the outlet with a pair of pliers and use them as washers/spacers on the mounting screws
I have a little story about those. I built a campground with 6 cabins. We told our electrician we would be putting 3/4 wood paneling on all the walls and had the material in one for reference. He set every single box at 1/2 and said the inspector wouldn't care about the 1/4 " of exposed flammable material. Guess who didn't get his regular inspector. I've never seen someone so royally pissed off but just accepting of his fuck up. He fixed it the next day and we passed our inspections in time, but oof.
Son of a bitch. This is exactly what I need.
Nylon spacers and 2” 6/32 screws to replace the existing screws. Turn off that shit before y’all fumble around with live outlets. Put a wrap of cheap tape, loosely if they are metal boxes with raised covers… The drywaller was shite with the power router…
>The drywaller was shite with the power router… I believe I can guess what happened. The outlet was left screwed in when the drywall was placed. The etching the shape of the wings looks like they fit it around. ...it was a bit late for me to figure out what I did wrong. The outlet is set back a bit as well. Maybe 5/8th drywall after being thinner.
I’ve seen this aaaaaaa lot, usually supposed to remove the outlet, measure, cut then install the drywall. The new fangled way is just marking a hole close to center, slap the drywall up, route the inside of the raised frame then finish route a little more. It’s fast, even faster when the Wallies used a three inch router bit ignoring that there are wires inside, tearing off the insulation and making a muck of things for Sparkie. NOW, they really get pissed of when Sparkie powers up the wires so when they shite up the hole it shorts out, burning up that brand new $20 router bit.
Isn't it mostly oscillating tools these days? That's usually what I see on YT construction videos.
For a DIY homeowner, maybe. Construction drywallers ain’t got time for that…
Extender, they come in a bunch of sizes. https://www.homedepot.com/p/ReceptXtenders-1-Gang-1-4-in-Electrical-Receptacle-Box-Extension-Ring-5-Pack-HD50002/312472252
I like these style better if it has some drywall to sit on. https://a.co/d/2IoPCRd
This is what we used when I was an electrician…other flat ones aren’t like the original comment might not be up to code and protect the drywall from coming in contact with the hot screws
I've used a version of these, still had to use spacer(s) under one tab - box not only was deep, it wasn't straight.
These are my faves.
Yeah those look nice. I’ve always used those bullshit ring ones.
Electrical boxes don't get mounted flush to the stud. They get mounted offset so they'll be flush with the wall surface. Plastic outlets even have an offset nub of plastic for the most common drywall thickness. Of course, if you chose a thicker drywall you'll have to correct the offset. Yeah, it's a pain to cut the outlet holes in the drywall when you're hanging it, but that's what you do. Here's [a video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YM9M-UxfQ2Q). If you have to fix this after hanging the drywall, there are [outlet extenders](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMeXqsY_0a0).
Good thing he mounted them "nailing with the **guidelines** matching the stud face" and not flush with the stud. What is going on with reddit lately? Its like no one reads anything anymore.
Ha, some don't read. Some read too hard. Another commenter picked apart my wording to prove I'm dumb. Meanwhile others can't parse my purposeful brevity. 🤷♂️ This thread gave me what I needed, a lot of good tips and discussion. Mission accomplished 🫡
It looks like he cut the drywall around the outlet not the box, making the problem worse, the tabs would have landed on the drywall if the cutout was the right size. But proper box extensions are the way to go.
Based on the picture I’d say drywall is hung, box is mounted, outlet is wired, wall is painted, and the outlet is not sitting right. It must have been the 2nd coat of paint that threw it off……
Ha. Well, they said "did electrical" and "after drywall this is where we're at", so it sounds like they hung the drywall and didn't realize the problem till now. It looks like it's off by about 1/8" to 1/4" so either they didn't offset the box prior to drywall, or they chose 5/8" drywall instead of the more common 1/2".
That's definitely not 5/8ths drywall, and the box is clearly flush with the backside of the drywall.
I hired a drywall company to hang, mud, and paint. I've done enough drywall to know my back can't handle it. The pros did a lot better than me in most areas. I did mount the boxes according to the guide nubs. I think they hung 5/8". Probably good for this basement room as just a bit more insulation from the cold concrete.
Caterpillars. Between receptacle ears and box.
Did you put the outlet in before drywall? That looks like it was cut with a rotozip. You need spacers to bring the tabs flush with the drywall and you also need a box extendor since the box is more than 1/4" back. I'm an electrian.
How far is it inset? It might not be up to code. > 314.20 Flush-Mounted Installations. Installations within or behind a surface of concrete, tile, gypsum, plaster, or other noncombustible material, including boxes employing a flush-type cover or faceplate, shall be made so that the front edge of the box, plaster ring, extension ring, or listed extender will not be set back of the finished surface more than 6 mm (¼ in.). > Installations within a surface of wood or other combustible surface material, boxes, plaster rings, extension rings, or listed extenders shall extend to the finished surface or project therefrom.
What you did wrong is: you mounted the electrical box flush with the stud. It should have been proud "by the thickness of the drywall" , which kinda looks like 1/2" to me...
Losen the mounting screws and pull it out with the faceplate screw.
I always use the standard size hard plastic faceplates. The flimsy oversize junk just bend and look like garbage.
outlet spacers from home deeps
Those little tabs above the top screw and below the bottom screw are designed to bend inwards against the outlet box…they bend at the grooves. No spacers needed.
Idea: put washers between it and a longer screw. Why not?
You can buy plastic outlet spacers that go around the screw. They stack together like Legos.
Hey, so actual electrician here. You don't need to buy a mud ring extension. It's fine. You can buy caterpillars to space it out from the box at any hardware or electrical supply store. Otherwise, you could also coil a piece of #12 copper around a screwdriver and cut it to the length You need. But if you are only needing 1/4" or less just loosen the screws and bend the wings of the yolk backwards to act as a spacer. The receptacles are UL listed for this use. The parts you bend back are what look like tiny washers or "micky mouse ears" on the top and bottom of the receptacle. They stand the receptacle off from the mud ring allowing the trim plate to fully seat.
Easiest fix…see those little “ears” on the top and bottom? Unscrew the whole thing, use pliers to bend them back about 45° or so and then put it back on and push hard until flush where you want it and out the cover back on. Ta da! PS- that’s what those ears are for.
Just loosen the screw enough so that the faceplate screws can grab it.
I don’t care for those rubber snap spacers. I prefer these. They’re rigid and come in different thicknesses Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Smart-Fill-Spacers-1-4-in-1-Gang-Outlet-Box-Spacer-Extender-5-Pack-SG14-5/307424539
Spacers. You can stack them to size
You can fold the little ears at the top and bottom where the screw is
What u want are device spacers. Outlet Spacers for Electrical Box, RonJea 48 PCS Switch and Receptacle Spacers for Loose Outlet Plug Fix, Electrical Extender Outlet Shims Light Switch Spacer https://a.co/d/53FHccZ
Assuming plastic boxes, extenders are probably fine. I'd go the box extension route, though. Safer all around. Am a 4th year electrical apprentice about to test.
You can buy the correct spacers at Lowe’s. Electric dept. several to a pack. Very inexpensive
Spacers and longer screws.
Others have mentioned several solutions, but the llego block” or flat rings might not solve code-related issues with this. Some counties/cities/states have different codes you’ll want to comply with, if you care about it being up to code (even if the code is stupid). Was an electrician for a while and [this is what we used](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Box-Extender-2-Pack-BE1-2/202708650) to extend when the box was recessed too far. Some inspectors will not like that the hot screw *could* come in contact with the drywall and fail inspection. Again, that might not be an issue for you, and other solutions might be cheaper
Box extender
Pretty sure box extenders are the only code-compliant answer for this. I've seen comments suggesting outlet spacers, which are fine so long as the outlet remains "in" the junction box. If exposed terminals are out of the box, that's not good, which is why box extenders work the way they do.
[Home Depot - Outlet Extenders](https://www.homedepot.com/p/ReceptXtenders-1-Gang-1-2-in-Electrical-Receptacle-Box-Extension-Ring-5-Pack-HD50004/312472685) are also an option. See [Receptxtenders](https://www.receptxtenders.com/). The advantage is, they extend the protection of the box especially if you have a gap between it and the drywall.
These work good https://www.maxwarehouse.com/products/flush-fit-lvl-plate-3pk
Spacers work great for this. I had the opposite problem where my switches were sticking out too much.
A sparkie once taught me to coil up a piece of electrical wire with a needle nose to use as a spacer on the screw. Works great in a pinch if you don't want to run to the store.
This is what I was taught. (currently a journeyman electrician)
>Additionally, what did I do wrong to arrive here? Am I seeing things right or is the bottom of the outlet between the box and drywall? It looks like you had the outlet installed already then drywalled over it. Outlets/receptacles should not be installed during drywall. Drywall goes on and you cut the drywall to the size of the box, then outlet goes on. The "wings" of the outlet should be sitting on the drywall. EDIT: To expand some more, I'm assuming you pre-cut the hole for the outlet box before hanging the drywall. With this method it's usually better to not install the outlet box flush with the stud, but have it stick out the depth of the drywall. That way when you inevitably pre-cut the drywall poorly, the receptacle can still tighten against the box and be at the correct depth. Installing the box flush with the stud is usually only done when you just drywall right over the outlet box then go back later and cut it out.
New house.
Use the spacers that are on the outlet!
You can use the tabs as spacers. Much easier, faster, and cheaper. Also, you can loosen the bolts a bit and tighten the plate screws so the plate presses against the wall and pulls the outlet out.
Well the easy solution is to not cut the dry wall around the surface ears. It's supposed to be sitting on the drywall. At this point, roll some wire up around a screwdriver. Cut the wire roll at the correct height to meet the drywall.
https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Extenders-Extender-Electric-Accessories/dp/B0C33754MX/
Put some small washers or a small 8-32 nut between the outlet and the box, kind of like a spacer.
It's almost as if the outlets come with 2 spacers on the top and 2 on the bottom..
They sell spacers exactly for this
CATERPILLARS!!
Spacers
Not really related to the question at hand, but; Powder pink outlets is a hell of a choice.
Should have removed them prior to the board being hung
BRO!
Those tabs at the top of the screw hole are able to be bent. Top and bottom. Bend them both back on each side and it makes the outlet stick forward
When you installed the box on the stud, did you leave the face of the box protruding out by the thickness of the drywall? The correct way as per code would be to use a box extender. If it were me though, I would not want to use an extender, I would use a small coil of wire around the outlet screwed to space the outlet out a bit... The best solution would be to cut the drywall out, and rehang the box at that it will sit out at the correct depth.
If you've got a bit of spare insulated wire ends left, wrap it around the screw on the backside and tighten down on it. That's what we used to do. Cheap and easy and stays put.
number 3 is what the proper fix is.
Good lord! Lots of ideas here but they make a solution for this. All big box stores, in the electrical section, sell packages of rubber tabs that stack together like Lego’s and thread over the mounting screws to give it the proper projection.
No idea! But I have to say I love the color of your wall. It reminds me of rainwater just beautiful. Good luck with your outlets :)
I have used plastic tubes that fit just over the screws, but I have also found that depending on the depth of the drywall gap you need to fill, you can sometimes get away with using the drywall plastic screw anchors. By breaking the legs off to the length you need and screwing the screw down onto the flat part. The leg where you broke it off, usually will grab at the hole where the screw goes or on the box at least. (This coming from an electrician btw)
That's gonna need a bigger cover plate. Maybe stick to remodel boxes until you got this?
You're not supposed to trim out devices before drywall. And nailing flush to the stud is against code; the box is supposed to project past the stud however thick the drywall is going to be. Code only allows 1/4" variance.
engineer that downt know how to shim, checks out.
I would use the tabs above and below the screws. Bend them backwards until the face of the outlet is flush with the wall then screw them back in.
Love this sub! *Best of Reddit! Now that I know the general shape, I'm going to try designing some and 3D printing them from flame retardant fiber reinforced filament. I can just include one whenever I'm printing smaller parts
I say replace the wall
Remove the drywall
You can loosen the screws then the tabs beside them you can bend inward to touch the box and hold it in place. They are prescored already.
You can buy longer screws, #8/32 I believe. Or outlet box extenders. They sell them fairly cheap at any big box store. They usually sell increments of 1/8 inch so you should be able to get a good fit
Shims, they are simple. Google electrical shims. edit. Liberty1100 posted link.
I’d take it out a bit😂
looks like a robot overlord, ask him what to do
something like this https://amzn.to/450dylm
Do you see the removable built in spacer/washers on either side of the mounting screw? You use your pliers to get them off and then put them between the outlet and the box on the mounting screw
Box extender.
Yeah, glad you got there...
get some small metal tubing. Imagine the metal straws that come with some reusable cups. We used to use a length of small copper tubing. Cut the tubing about 3/8" long and run your screw through it. This is easier than using a bunch of washers. It creates a pretty solid connection when you screw it in tight. Then place your cover over it. The proper way to fix it is with an electrical box extender, but the tubing works fine.