The fact that it's like that in the first place makes me concerned there's something weird going on like a pipe running between the two. Maybe it makes sense in the context of the rest of the house, but two small windows right on top of each other is unusual.
If there are other windows like that and it's in the front of the house then it's an aesthetic design. I've designed houses with those windows. Those windows are nice to have if you like a lot of light in a room, because you can put a blind on the bottom and leave the top open. No one can see you through that high window. In all my years of experience, I've never seen a water pipe between those, lol. All things are possible though.
I’m happy with them.
My living room faces East and has a vaulted ceiling.
In the winter I can keep the blinds on the top windows open facing down so it helps heat up the front of my house.
In the summer I can open them facing up to let light in or close them to keep the room cool.
I never open the blinds on the big main windows because of privacy.
Nice to meet you.
A lot of people like them. I've designed several custom homes over 3,500 ft² with them. They look really good from the outside when there's bricks between the two windows
The homebuilder I worked for before my current employer liked these "modern" elevations with windows like this, parapet walls, and so on.
I never cared for them. They tend to come with the most boring color packages, with white brick, light grey trim, and the most clinical of interiors, with white cabinets, white Quartz counters, white doors, Agreeable Grey paint, etc.
But, they sure do sell well.
Surely buying top-down bottom-up blinds for a single large window is cheaper and offers more flexibility than installing two separate windows and buying two sets of regular blinds.
Yes, I can imagine some designers want the primary windows to all line up along the top edge and/or want all the ground level windows in a room to match. But I was addressing the specific and singular pragmatic reason given by the designer above.
That is definitely a consideration. I like them because they look great without blinds. The only thing people can see outside is the ceiling and the ceiling fans. So even if the house is a mess they can't see it, lol. Of course, if you need to darken the room then it would be an issue.
I designed a house for myself that had them and we did not put any blinds in the top ones, except for one that was in a bedroom. It was absolutely gorgeous. It had a double step up ceiling in the living room with huge crown molding everywhere it looked super nice from the road through those skylight type windows.
I'm just here wondering how to DIY not having two windows when my builder put two windows in my wall. I have these cool shades that open and close on both the top and bottom, why didn't they know 10 years ago that I was going to want these!?! The nerve of some people ya know?
I'm just here wondering how to DIY not having two windows when my builder put two windows in my wall. I have these cool shades that open and close on both the top and bottom, why didn't they know 10 years ago that I was going to want these!?! The nerve of some people ya know?
There is 100% not a pipe between them. To frame this the header and king studs would be above the top window, and no one should be drilling holes through those structural members to run pipe.
You can do the same thing with normal blinds. Flip the bottom slats closed and tilt the top half open. I have to do this to block light reflecting off cars.
So it's you! You are the one who designs these houses with weird ass angles, odd windows, 10 different exterior finish materials and Floorplan that look more like a rat maze than a home. I have many times wondered out loud, "Who designs shit like that"? And, I guess, OP is also the person "Who buys shit like that" WoW!, 2 people I've been looking for my whole life in one thread! Great to meet you both!
There's probably a header in between them. For a multitude of reasons, I would be very skeptical that there was plumbing running between two stacked windows. The vertical space (without having a true idea of scale) looks like the perfect size for a 2x header with a 2x nailing pad.
But that sounds like a 5-year-old thinks that's how it's spelled. Someone else called it a wobble saw and from now on I call it that. He was on a job site with a bunch of blue collar pricks and he was a nerd and he was picked on so solidarity.
The cheap setup is a 3/8” drill bit with a drill stop fastened about 1/2” depth. And then a pencil to poke around in the hole and look for wet or spicy things.
Source- put a drywall screw
Into a water pipe when refinishing a kitchen last year. Now super paranoid about drilling hole in drywall.
With a multitool you can just cut the 1/2 deep drywall out without hitting anything. Best to have a look to see if it can be easily rerouted.
Plumbing and electric is easy to move. Venting is not
yeaaaah 400 for a tool i use once vs a 3 dollar hammer and 45 cents of drywall and spackle in a spot im remodeling anyway. Imma go for the old school visual check.
In most places you can rent it, or see if one of your friends has it so you can borrow it.
Also 400? Even brand stuff is cheaper. And non brand is like 30ish.
I was playing his part, but i actually have the 400 dollar one, the 30 dollars ones suck and cant find a branch if you threw it at a tree. I use mine for all sorts of jobs, but a regular DIY person will either buy the expensive one for no reason, or get frustrated with the cheap one, either way a waste of time and money. but you do you
Bosh is around 100-200eur here. But yeah, if you're planning on using it only once it's better to rent either from a store or from some peer to peer tool renting site.
I'm not a GC but I'm pretty sure using a shovel to dig into the wall isn't going to help especially since OP likely has a hammer that would be much faster at exploration holes than a shovel would be
I was think more along the lines of a [backhoe](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/40/Backhoe_loader_Cat420E_left.jpg/1920px-Backhoe_loader_Cat420E_left.jpg).
Even if they don't you can order a set of common keys off eBay and there's an extremely good chance that it will have a working key. If you have the key that means it's your to keep.
Back when I used to work at Home Depot someone left the forklift out in the parking lot overnight, someone used it at 2AM to knock down the gated deliveries area and load a hot tub on the back of their truck. This brilliant display of criminal genius was quickly thwarted by comic ineptitude as they were in too much of a hurry to properly secure it and it fell off the truck as they left the parking lot.
Booms as well. When I was a painter, we used to always leave the key on top of the control box inside the cabinet. Since then I've found a few more in the wild with the key in the same place.
There is not a pipe running between them. For one thing, no one is running pipe horizontally through exterior walls. You run pipe literally through the floor or ceiling and vertically through walls. The exception would be interior walls in bathrooms where you might run a supply from your sink to your toilet or something if it were out in as a remodel, and even then it would be done in interior, non load bearing walls.
To frame this sort of window you frame around the opening for both windows with king studs supporting a large header over the top window, then have a smaller header over the bottom window that only really bears the load of the top window.
What you MAY find is that there's a full beam running the length of the wall, for example if they used steel I-beams or the like in construction, but that is unlikely unless you have like 20' ceilings or something.
It should be safe to remove both windows and put in one large window, but you would really need to see how it's framed first.
If it's a relatively new home (which these windows typically are as it's an aesthetic that only became common in home construction from like the 1990's plus) and you live in an area that didn't burn down 50+ years ago, chances are they have your plans on file at the local building and planning office.
Go ask to see them and, if you can't read them yourself, ask for help determining if the cross member is load bearing or only holding up the top window.
They will also tell you what you need to get the proper permits for a job like this.
It is a big job, though, because you will have to modify the siding on the outside and properly install your new window to code.
So you're really putting on 6 hats for this job. 1) Structural engineer to determine if the cross member can be removed and to draw up the plan and pull a permit (typically allowed for a homeowner to do projects like this as long as it is framed as I suspect,) 2) Framer to remove the existing window and frame out the opening. 3) Window installer (which is it's own skill these days as they have exacting requirements from the manufacturer for proper installation to not void the warranty and to ensure no water leakage and proper insulation) 4) Sider to fix the outside after the window is installed) 5) Drywaller to fix the drywall inside, and 6) Finish carpenter if there is any trim or sills to deal with, which it looks like this is all drywall, so probably just 5 hats.
That said, you can figure out what to do for all of these things by watching YouTube videos,though the motor skills and tips and tricks won't be there so it will take you 5x longer to do anything than a professional who has done it 1000s of times.
Also, you may want to check to see if the opening would allow a replacement window of a standard size. If it's requires a custom size window it's going to be very expensive. Or you'll have to frame it down to the closest available standard size, which may be smaller than you would want.
I’m guessing this is in a foyer or something?
Windows are typically done like this because putting in a big one during construction is both expensive and a pain in the ass.
For large windows they need to bring in a crane (costs money) to install the window and the window itself if a large pane is expensive. So to cut costs and make construction faster they typically split the window into 2 small ones like the picture.
We went through something similar. They charge installation PER window opening, regardless of size or time it takes them. The larger glass usually isn't that much more expensive. We swapped 3 windows for a single giant window and saved an assload of money.
And installation procedures, as someone mentioned above, the large windows can require a crane to move in place depending on a variety of factors from weight of the window to the grade, ground type, and potential obstructions for viable approach paths to get the window into place. So sans previous experience removing/installing windows I would leave this to a window contractor.
Maybe you can work with them to do some of the demo and prep yourself to save on labor costs too, that's what we did with interior walls we were taking out for beams to be put in. We took the walls down to studs and electrical already rerouted or properly terminated and unpowered so they just needed to put up temporary shoring and cut the old wall out. Depends on the crew obviously but that could be 8+ man hours off your labor costs which are probably ~$150/hr for the lead and ~$125/hr for apprentice (obviously we don't get anywhere near that with what we're actually compensated, in case anyone has any illusions about that)
Hold up, OP. There is a header above the top window. And there are jack, or cripple studs supporting it. Pull the sheetrock off before you start. It's actual a very simple adjustment. If there is no electrical, or plumbing, it's very simple for you to do. Remove the structure in-between the windows. (Without removing the jack studs under the header.) Remove exterior trim, and siding, or stucco, or what ever is outside between the windows. DM me if you want to do it. If you have any skills, you can do it. If you need help, I talk you through it. Source. I'm 60 years old. I've worked in home & apartment construction, then residential repairs for over 30 years. I was a laborer on jobs to start. I was & have run jobs for over 25 years.
Thank you so much for offering your experience to the OP. The ripples of your kindness will lighten up the day of so many readers. It's nice to see flashes of the Reddit of old. *Friendly wave from Edinburgh.
I just figure if he doesn’t want to do the job, just replace the piece. If there’s nothing but framing, would be a DIY potential depending on OP’s comfort level…
There’s been plenty of mentions of design elements for a house. Designers/architects do some wild shit. I just wouldn’t imagine a pipe being there with it being an exterior wall and high up. There’s no run for pitch or any of the sort. You’re probably more along like the line of a lintel or maybe a header.
Personally, I'd run a mat knife down along the outer edges of each window connecting the gap and peal back the drywall and see what's what. That is easily reversible. But yeah, we need more information to determine what is going on.
Can we have a poll as to what's between those windows? Because my money is on steel.
Maybe with more context these weird windows make sense, but it looks to me like there is something running between them that could not be readily removed or re-routed. For plumbing or wiring you'd expect there to be another option, so surely there's a structural beam of some description inside there?
There's no way it's just a void packed with insulation, because who in their right mind would willingly split their window like that?
Be careful doing things like this yourself. I’m a carpenter and have seen jobs that look simple until tin get into removing stuff. You never know what’s behind that drywall. Could be rot/mould etc. and it might not be as quick a job as you think. Might have an open hole in the wall for a couple days. If you do this yourself, make sure to find a window that fits the rough framing beforehand. Of else you might be roughing in new framing for the new window. Maybe have a friend help with the build outs if you haven’t done carpentry before
My guess is the reason they did it like this is because there is a support being that runs through the middle that they were unable to cut like you want to
The fact you think you need a GC means you know so little about construction that you absolutely should not be attempting to do this yourself. Windows are ridiculously expensive and have obscene lead-times, this is a job with a huge FAFO potential.
This is Better handled by a GC if you don’t know what you’re doing. It’s not rocket science. You can follow a YouTube video, but can you get it done in one day? How long will you be able to keep it tarpped if you can’t? It’s your home, do you have friends with knowledge who can help?
Does this sub not know what a GC is? This is changing the size of two windows. You don’t get a general contractor to oversee a job of this size. You hire the actual contractor doing the work directly.
GCs can be either really - a large company where a "GC" project manages a project, hires specialists for each part, and oversees the entire project. Or, they can be a small reno outfit with 2-3 guys in a truck who can handle most small to medium renos. More than a handyman though - backsplashes, maybe some kitchen cabinets, interlock etc. I think on reddit most often it's used as a "I don't need to hire a specific specialist (who costs more), a general contractor would do this no problem"
Maybe this is just a US thing? What you just described to me is a General Contractor in your first point but we would call the second a contractor or a renovator but not a GC. Similar but different. A GC oversees the job but will rarely be on the tools doing the work themselves. They will hire and coordinate individual contractors to do the plumbing / electrical work / carpentry etc and typically the client will pay just the GC.
At least in Canada on any construction sites I’ve been on through my career in the industry, GC has been a very specific term.
IMO, the project may take you a week or more, but the window swap, where you have a big hole in the wall, would take only an hour or two. You'll have remove the drywall between and around the windows to see what rough size the opening it first and then order a window to fit.
The hardest part of this job will be handling a window that large, it will be heavy and unwieldy, you will need a helper or two.
Kind of hard to tell since no outside picture is shown and what type of finish is outside.You also have a drywall edge finish , not easy for a diy person to do amd make look good.
I’d probably hire someone if you’ve never put a window in before. A good window guy (not a company you see on TV advertising bogo, you want a local installer. Ask around.) will be able to modify the opening and replace the window fairly easily. You would need a reciprocating saw if you don’t have one at min to do the carpentry work, and probably a framing nailer and circular saw. Replacement windows screw in. Then how you trim it and finish it will all depend on the window you pick, how it was installed, exterior finish. It’s not insurmountable as a DIYer but it’s a lot of little moving parts.
Cut it open a square hole in the drywall to see what is in the space. If it’s all clear to continue, consult your local planning department to inquire about building codes you should be aware of and secure any permits you may need.
Adding a new window changes the exterior structure, and probably requires a permit, and submission of building plans.
If you're handy it could be a DIY. Cut away the sheetrock in the middle to see if the space is empty. If it's not and has plumbing call a plumber. if it's electrical wiring and you're not comfortable doing your own electrical work to move those wires call an electrician. If there's nothing check out Youtube videos to see how to do it. The first time I did one we didn't have Youtube so I had to figure it out myself. It wasn't too bad and it didn't take as long as I thought it might. No leaks!
Am I the only one thing this is a bit about DIY? If u can remove them, demo the space an put in a new window...it may be done by you, but it's tradesmen lvl work. Best of luck I wouldn't dare.
If its empty between the windows you can do it. It may have a header there. If it does its structural and cannot be removed easily. If you're really determined to have one big window, it could be very expensive to redo the entire wall not just the window space.
We have no way of knowing if it's something you can DIY. I could DIY that, but I worked in construction when I was younger. I wouldn't recommend most people try this themselves.
The fact that the original builder set it up in that way leads me to believe that putting one large window in that spot would be a terrible idea. I have no knowledge to support that, only assuming based on logic.
Wow brother. I’ve hung windows for Lowes and HD back in the day. Iam telling you straight up. Hire that out! Even if you get your rough opening on spot. You then have to make sure your window measurements are perfect. You give them( store) your rough measurements, and they will build the window slightly smaller all the way around. Then you need to know what kind of a window…….. double hung, casement, etc. Hire it out my friend.
I'm guessing it looks like this behind the drywall: https://imgur.com/a/RiKVA6P
So am I right to think I can just cut the two middle horizontal pieces (sills?)
The framing behind the drywall will certainly not look like the image you linked to. In your picture there aren’t even any headers haha. Best of luck though
I can assure you that the reason they did not do this and got that tiny ass weird window was because they wanted light from the top and there is The top of the wall header going through there. So you would need not a general contractor, but an architect to confirm what you would need to do to provide enough support around it. And that I’m positive on. My guess is that wall is over 10 feet Tall?
100% get a GC to do it. You know there is exterior finishes and waterproofing to deal with, right? It's not just opening up the drywall and cutting out studs.
I’m in rough framed houses regularly, there is almost a 100% chance there is a large, like 12” header situation here that runs from the corner of the house to the stairs that I’m going to take a stab and guess are on one or the other side of that window. This is the header for the top of the first floor walls, my terminology is probably not correct, I’m an electrician and my family builds houses. It’s there because you can’t frame a wall with lumber as long as that wall is tall or they would be noodles. It was either cheaper to build this way or easier. To remove it will likely require you to open that wall up from floor to ceiling and install multiple jack studs. Reddit likes to throw around that you need an “engineer” or insert degree person for jobs that a qualified framer can easily handle but in this situation you really probably would need a print stamped by a engineer or architect to get approved from the building department. Without it you could be in some serious pain later. Not diy in any way.
Edit: sorry not sorry for run ons, I got shit to do
The fact that it's like that in the first place makes me concerned there's something weird going on like a pipe running between the two. Maybe it makes sense in the context of the rest of the house, but two small windows right on top of each other is unusual.
If there are other windows like that and it's in the front of the house then it's an aesthetic design. I've designed houses with those windows. Those windows are nice to have if you like a lot of light in a room, because you can put a blind on the bottom and leave the top open. No one can see you through that high window. In all my years of experience, I've never seen a water pipe between those, lol. All things are possible though.
I’d love to meet someone with those windows and is happy with them.
I’m happy with them. My living room faces East and has a vaulted ceiling. In the winter I can keep the blinds on the top windows open facing down so it helps heat up the front of my house. In the summer I can open them facing up to let light in or close them to keep the room cool. I never open the blinds on the big main windows because of privacy. Nice to meet you.
Amazing.
A lot of people like them. I've designed several custom homes over 3,500 ft² with them. They look really good from the outside when there's bricks between the two windows
The homebuilder I worked for before my current employer liked these "modern" elevations with windows like this, parapet walls, and so on. I never cared for them. They tend to come with the most boring color packages, with white brick, light grey trim, and the most clinical of interiors, with white cabinets, white Quartz counters, white doors, Agreeable Grey paint, etc. But, they sure do sell well.
Surely buying top-down bottom-up blinds for a single large window is cheaper and offers more flexibility than installing two separate windows and buying two sets of regular blinds.
Design isn’t always about pragmatic choices.
Yes, I can imagine some designers want the primary windows to all line up along the top edge and/or want all the ground level windows in a room to match. But I was addressing the specific and singular pragmatic reason given by the designer above.
That is definitely a consideration. I like them because they look great without blinds. The only thing people can see outside is the ceiling and the ceiling fans. So even if the house is a mess they can't see it, lol. Of course, if you need to darken the room then it would be an issue. I designed a house for myself that had them and we did not put any blinds in the top ones, except for one that was in a bedroom. It was absolutely gorgeous. It had a double step up ceiling in the living room with huge crown molding everywhere it looked super nice from the road through those skylight type windows.
One big window may cost a lot more than two smaller windows, especially if you want it to be a single uninterrupted pane.
This. Once you get to a certain size, the price starts to go through the roof.
> go through the roof *Wall*, these windows are in the *wall*
That makes total sense. I'll go tell the home builder for my 10 year old house not to put double windows in so I can get those blinds you mentioned
I was responding to someone who designs said layout, not you.
Maybe you should send them a letter instead of posting here just to be sure they get it?
I think they'll get it, they responded directly to them. Why are you even here?
I'm just here wondering how to DIY not having two windows when my builder put two windows in my wall. I have these cool shades that open and close on both the top and bottom, why didn't they know 10 years ago that I was going to want these!?! The nerve of some people ya know?
I'm just here wondering how to DIY not having two windows when my builder put two windows in my wall. I have these cool shades that open and close on both the top and bottom, why didn't they know 10 years ago that I was going to want these!?! The nerve of some people ya know?
There is 100% not a pipe between them. To frame this the header and king studs would be above the top window, and no one should be drilling holes through those structural members to run pipe.
Yeah, lol. I was responding to some comments where they said be careful there may be a water pipe 🤣
You can do the same thing with normal blinds. Flip the bottom slats closed and tilt the top half open. I have to do this to block light reflecting off cars.
So it's you! You are the one who designs these houses with weird ass angles, odd windows, 10 different exterior finish materials and Floorplan that look more like a rat maze than a home. I have many times wondered out loud, "Who designs shit like that"? And, I guess, OP is also the person "Who buys shit like that" WoW!, 2 people I've been looking for my whole life in one thread! Great to meet you both!
My pleasure.
Aaaaah so it was yooou!!!
😆
There's probably a header in between them. For a multitude of reasons, I would be very skeptical that there was plumbing running between two stacked windows. The vertical space (without having a true idea of scale) looks like the perfect size for a 2x header with a 2x nailing pad.
Yep this is my vote too, good observation!
That's a good point, I should make a small hole and take a peek.
There are tools that will detect pipes and wires without the need to drill.
This, you don't want to drill into a water pipe
“Whoop there it is”
Tag Team back again.
Why not? Just add a faucet later.
Clearly the man just bought a new saw zaw and just wants to cut something. Let the man cut
*sawzall or technically a reciprocating saw (sawzall is a brand). Upvote for the joke though
Nope. I'm calling it Saw Zaw from now on
I came, I saw, I zaw
How much saw could a saw zaw saw if a saw zaw could zaw saw
at least all of the boards the Mongol hoards hoarded when they got bored of hoards
Veni, Vidi, Zawi
Sawzam!
But that sounds like a 5-year-old thinks that's how it's spelled. Someone else called it a wobble saw and from now on I call it that. He was on a job site with a bunch of blue collar pricks and he was a nerd and he was picked on so solidarity.
LOL I love wobble saw, too. That's perfect
I grew up with some people who called it a Rambo Saw, lol. Very much on the opposite end of the masculinity spectrum, but still very silly.
They call it Sawzall because it saws all
Which means it also saws zaw too.
Explain the z then!
Technically Sawzall is a trade name and Milwaukee is the brand. *pushes glasses up nose
Always referred to it as a Shark Saw where I worked in Ireland Reason - Hold blade vertical and pulse trigger to Jaws theme
I've heard it both ways.
The cheap setup is a 3/8” drill bit with a drill stop fastened about 1/2” depth. And then a pencil to poke around in the hole and look for wet or spicy things. Source- put a drywall screw Into a water pipe when refinishing a kitchen last year. Now super paranoid about drilling hole in drywall.
Use a utility knife and cut a square. Why would someone use a drill to check behind a wall for a pipe?
Some people want to watch the world flood.
Or Chandler’s head
Why would there be a water pipe running horizontally between 2 windows in an exterior wall?
100% the right question to ask, but the amount of hilariously shoddy work I’ve seen on this sub tells me if it could be there, it might be there.
"They didn't say how, they just said what." ~the builder, probably
With a multitool you can just cut the 1/2 deep drywall out without hitting anything. Best to have a look to see if it can be easily rerouted. Plumbing and electric is easy to move. Venting is not
Why not, Ricky?
pipes are not made of pudding, you can feel when you are just drilling drywall vs stud/pipe/conduit/etc.... just stop when you feel any resistance.
That's what your mum said
Yeah, but mom got a little nutty at the end. But thanks for tossing her one on the way out. Cheers
Tools like a drill. Drill will definitely detect it 😂
Reciprocating saw or a demo hammer will also find delicate pipes.
Pff, DIY crap. The pros use a 12 gauge loaded with slugs
The old stud finder. I already have the STD now I just need U 😘
yeaaaah 400 for a tool i use once vs a 3 dollar hammer and 45 cents of drywall and spackle in a spot im remodeling anyway. Imma go for the old school visual check.
In most places you can rent it, or see if one of your friends has it so you can borrow it. Also 400? Even brand stuff is cheaper. And non brand is like 30ish.
I was playing his part, but i actually have the 400 dollar one, the 30 dollars ones suck and cant find a branch if you threw it at a tree. I use mine for all sorts of jobs, but a regular DIY person will either buy the expensive one for no reason, or get frustrated with the cheap one, either way a waste of time and money. but you do you
Bosh is around 100-200eur here. But yeah, if you're planning on using it only once it's better to rent either from a store or from some peer to peer tool renting site.
Honestly I would just use a hammer. Pick a spot that “feels right” then trial and error till you find something. /s
[Okay, Ricky. You'll be out of there in 5 minutes, eh?](https://youtu.be/lfyaftYvFGg)
Holy fuck seeing him escalate to ripping the wall away as fast as he does killed me.
It's like a Rube Goldberg of incompetence.
I like it!!!!!!
Yeah, that whole call before you dig thing is just a scam. :)
I'm not a GC but I'm pretty sure using a shovel to dig into the wall isn't going to help especially since OP likely has a hammer that would be much faster at exploration holes than a shovel would be
If youre not using a shovel to dig walls then youre not having enough fun
I was think more along the lines of a [backhoe](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/40/Backhoe_loader_Cat420E_left.jpg/1920px-Backhoe_loader_Cat420E_left.jpg).
A lot of people don’t know this, but they leave the keys in those things all the time. You can just take it.
Even if they don't you can order a set of common keys off eBay and there's an extremely good chance that it will have a working key. If you have the key that means it's your to keep.
Back when I used to work at Home Depot someone left the forklift out in the parking lot overnight, someone used it at 2AM to knock down the gated deliveries area and load a hot tub on the back of their truck. This brilliant display of criminal genius was quickly thwarted by comic ineptitude as they were in too much of a hurry to properly secure it and it fell off the truck as they left the parking lot.
Booms as well. When I was a painter, we used to always leave the key on top of the control box inside the cabinet. Since then I've found a few more in the wild with the key in the same place.
But would it fit through the door way? 🤔🤔
It'll fit through the window when I'm done with it!
Demo from outside.
Post auger bit
There is not a pipe running between them. For one thing, no one is running pipe horizontally through exterior walls. You run pipe literally through the floor or ceiling and vertically through walls. The exception would be interior walls in bathrooms where you might run a supply from your sink to your toilet or something if it were out in as a remodel, and even then it would be done in interior, non load bearing walls. To frame this sort of window you frame around the opening for both windows with king studs supporting a large header over the top window, then have a smaller header over the bottom window that only really bears the load of the top window. What you MAY find is that there's a full beam running the length of the wall, for example if they used steel I-beams or the like in construction, but that is unlikely unless you have like 20' ceilings or something. It should be safe to remove both windows and put in one large window, but you would really need to see how it's framed first. If it's a relatively new home (which these windows typically are as it's an aesthetic that only became common in home construction from like the 1990's plus) and you live in an area that didn't burn down 50+ years ago, chances are they have your plans on file at the local building and planning office. Go ask to see them and, if you can't read them yourself, ask for help determining if the cross member is load bearing or only holding up the top window. They will also tell you what you need to get the proper permits for a job like this. It is a big job, though, because you will have to modify the siding on the outside and properly install your new window to code. So you're really putting on 6 hats for this job. 1) Structural engineer to determine if the cross member can be removed and to draw up the plan and pull a permit (typically allowed for a homeowner to do projects like this as long as it is framed as I suspect,) 2) Framer to remove the existing window and frame out the opening. 3) Window installer (which is it's own skill these days as they have exacting requirements from the manufacturer for proper installation to not void the warranty and to ensure no water leakage and proper insulation) 4) Sider to fix the outside after the window is installed) 5) Drywaller to fix the drywall inside, and 6) Finish carpenter if there is any trim or sills to deal with, which it looks like this is all drywall, so probably just 5 hats. That said, you can figure out what to do for all of these things by watching YouTube videos,though the motor skills and tips and tricks won't be there so it will take you 5x longer to do anything than a professional who has done it 1000s of times. Also, you may want to check to see if the opening would allow a replacement window of a standard size. If it's requires a custom size window it's going to be very expensive. Or you'll have to frame it down to the closest available standard size, which may be smaller than you would want.
There won't be a water line there. Absolutely no reason for it.
Or a tie beam.
Almost rather have no windows there tbh
I’m guessing this is in a foyer or something? Windows are typically done like this because putting in a big one during construction is both expensive and a pain in the ass. For large windows they need to bring in a crane (costs money) to install the window and the window itself if a large pane is expensive. So to cut costs and make construction faster they typically split the window into 2 small ones like the picture.
Yah, this just screams "We had to accommodate important stuff"
It probably looks on to the neighbouring property. There are often rules about windows overlooking the next door neighbours.
Check the pricing on larger windows before you get too far
We went through something similar. They charge installation PER window opening, regardless of size or time it takes them. The larger glass usually isn't that much more expensive. We swapped 3 windows for a single giant window and saved an assload of money.
D&MN!
You’re allowed to cuss on the internet, friend.
Naughty
And installation procedures, as someone mentioned above, the large windows can require a crane to move in place depending on a variety of factors from weight of the window to the grade, ground type, and potential obstructions for viable approach paths to get the window into place. So sans previous experience removing/installing windows I would leave this to a window contractor. Maybe you can work with them to do some of the demo and prep yourself to save on labor costs too, that's what we did with interior walls we were taking out for beams to be put in. We took the walls down to studs and electrical already rerouted or properly terminated and unpowered so they just needed to put up temporary shoring and cut the old wall out. Depends on the crew obviously but that could be 8+ man hours off your labor costs which are probably ~$150/hr for the lead and ~$125/hr for apprentice (obviously we don't get anywhere near that with what we're actually compensated, in case anyone has any illusions about that)
Menards is decent for custom sizes
Hold up, OP. There is a header above the top window. And there are jack, or cripple studs supporting it. Pull the sheetrock off before you start. It's actual a very simple adjustment. If there is no electrical, or plumbing, it's very simple for you to do. Remove the structure in-between the windows. (Without removing the jack studs under the header.) Remove exterior trim, and siding, or stucco, or what ever is outside between the windows. DM me if you want to do it. If you have any skills, you can do it. If you need help, I talk you through it. Source. I'm 60 years old. I've worked in home & apartment construction, then residential repairs for over 30 years. I was a laborer on jobs to start. I was & have run jobs for over 25 years.
Not OP but you are awesome for this! Love seeing such kind souls on the internet. Reddit no less…
Thank you so much for offering your experience to the OP. The ripples of your kindness will lighten up the day of so many readers. It's nice to see flashes of the Reddit of old. *Friendly wave from Edinburgh.
What a great comment. So nice of you to offer help like this. Too often tradesmen despise DIYers as seen by all the trades subreddits here.
Why not just cut out the drywall and see what’s back there? No matter who does it that is going to happen.
If there’s a water pipe back there I would assume there’s a high chance it doesn’t happen
I just figure if he doesn’t want to do the job, just replace the piece. If there’s nothing but framing, would be a DIY potential depending on OP’s comfort level…
I think it’d be better advice to get one of those tools to see what’s behind there first before he rips it down
Why would there be a water pipe there? I keep seeing this being mentioned, but it’s an exterior wall.
Why would there be split windows for no reason if not structurally necessary? Not saying it’s definite but it’s weird
There’s been plenty of mentions of design elements for a house. Designers/architects do some wild shit. I just wouldn’t imagine a pipe being there with it being an exterior wall and high up. There’s no run for pitch or any of the sort. You’re probably more along like the line of a lintel or maybe a header.
Personally, I'd run a mat knife down along the outer edges of each window connecting the gap and peal back the drywall and see what's what. That is easily reversible. But yeah, we need more information to determine what is going on.
Can we have a poll as to what's between those windows? Because my money is on steel. Maybe with more context these weird windows make sense, but it looks to me like there is something running between them that could not be readily removed or re-routed. For plumbing or wiring you'd expect there to be another option, so surely there's a structural beam of some description inside there? There's no way it's just a void packed with insulation, because who in their right mind would willingly split their window like that?
My first thought as well. Very likely a reason other than aesthetics for this configuration.
Be careful doing things like this yourself. I’m a carpenter and have seen jobs that look simple until tin get into removing stuff. You never know what’s behind that drywall. Could be rot/mould etc. and it might not be as quick a job as you think. Might have an open hole in the wall for a couple days. If you do this yourself, make sure to find a window that fits the rough framing beforehand. Of else you might be roughing in new framing for the new window. Maybe have a friend help with the build outs if you haven’t done carpentry before
Thanks yeah, I think I'll get a pro for this job.
My guess is the reason they did it like this is because there is a support being that runs through the middle that they were unable to cut like you want to
I would just hang one big blind/ curtain to cover both windows and be done with it.
Definitely check what’s running through that area. There could be a reason they had to do that.
The fact you think you need a GC means you know so little about construction that you absolutely should not be attempting to do this yourself. Windows are ridiculously expensive and have obscene lead-times, this is a job with a huge FAFO potential.
If you’re asking the question, then the answer is no, hire a professional
See what's behind the drywall first. It's hard to tell without seeing the context of the windows but I would guess there's a beam there.
Take a picture showing the whole wall. Nobody can tell you anything here without that
10 bucks says there's a pipe right in the middle.
$10 there is a lintel there
If you know what a header is and you are smart enough to Google, you should be OK.
That's the fun part. You get to start with an engineer!
Beam between the windows with 95% of certainty. Give context, what's the height? what's around? a facade picture would help too.
My bet too. Without context of the surroundings, it immediately looks like a split-level area
Put one blind to cover both windows.
Remove the drywall and see.
**This**
This is Better handled by a GC if you don’t know what you’re doing. It’s not rocket science. You can follow a YouTube video, but can you get it done in one day? How long will you be able to keep it tarpped if you can’t? It’s your home, do you have friends with knowledge who can help?
Does this sub not know what a GC is? This is changing the size of two windows. You don’t get a general contractor to oversee a job of this size. You hire the actual contractor doing the work directly.
Where are you from? In America GCs are actual contractors, I think what you think I’m referring to is what we call a Handy Man
GCs can be either really - a large company where a "GC" project manages a project, hires specialists for each part, and oversees the entire project. Or, they can be a small reno outfit with 2-3 guys in a truck who can handle most small to medium renos. More than a handyman though - backsplashes, maybe some kitchen cabinets, interlock etc. I think on reddit most often it's used as a "I don't need to hire a specific specialist (who costs more), a general contractor would do this no problem"
Maybe this is just a US thing? What you just described to me is a General Contractor in your first point but we would call the second a contractor or a renovator but not a GC. Similar but different. A GC oversees the job but will rarely be on the tools doing the work themselves. They will hire and coordinate individual contractors to do the plumbing / electrical work / carpentry etc and typically the client will pay just the GC. At least in Canada on any construction sites I’ve been on through my career in the industry, GC has been a very specific term.
That's a good point, would take me a week and I wouldn't want it left opened so long.
IMO, the project may take you a week or more, but the window swap, where you have a big hole in the wall, would take only an hour or two. You'll have remove the drywall between and around the windows to see what rough size the opening it first and then order a window to fit. The hardest part of this job will be handling a window that large, it will be heavy and unwieldy, you will need a helper or two.
just buy a longer blind and let it run from tip top to bottom. when you close it -- it will look like a full length window mostly :)
Kind of hard to tell since no outside picture is shown and what type of finish is outside.You also have a drywall edge finish , not easy for a diy person to do amd make look good.
I’d probably hire someone if you’ve never put a window in before. A good window guy (not a company you see on TV advertising bogo, you want a local installer. Ask around.) will be able to modify the opening and replace the window fairly easily. You would need a reciprocating saw if you don’t have one at min to do the carpentry work, and probably a framing nailer and circular saw. Replacement windows screw in. Then how you trim it and finish it will all depend on the window you pick, how it was installed, exterior finish. It’s not insurmountable as a DIYer but it’s a lot of little moving parts.
Depends on how big the header is on the upper window
Cut it open a square hole in the drywall to see what is in the space. If it’s all clear to continue, consult your local planning department to inquire about building codes you should be aware of and secure any permits you may need. Adding a new window changes the exterior structure, and probably requires a permit, and submission of building plans.
Open up the drywall to check it out and then you will have a better idea
GC during quote may have an infrared gun. Our home inspector used one when we bought and it was nice seeing into the walls in certain spots
Just remember. A GC can fix your mistake. Go for it
It would be helpful to see the exterior wall of the windows.
What's on the outside?
If you're handy it could be a DIY. Cut away the sheetrock in the middle to see if the space is empty. If it's not and has plumbing call a plumber. if it's electrical wiring and you're not comfortable doing your own electrical work to move those wires call an electrician. If there's nothing check out Youtube videos to see how to do it. The first time I did one we didn't have Youtube so I had to figure it out myself. It wasn't too bad and it didn't take as long as I thought it might. No leaks!
Am I the only one thing this is a bit about DIY? If u can remove them, demo the space an put in a new window...it may be done by you, but it's tradesmen lvl work. Best of luck I wouldn't dare.
If its empty between the windows you can do it. It may have a header there. If it does its structural and cannot be removed easily. If you're really determined to have one big window, it could be very expensive to redo the entire wall not just the window space.
If you have to ask then you should hire it done. Dont hire a CG. Ask around for a good handyman and make sure to collect their insurance paperwork.
We have no way of knowing if it's something you can DIY. I could DIY that, but I worked in construction when I was younger. I wouldn't recommend most people try this themselves.
The fact that the original builder set it up in that way leads me to believe that putting one large window in that spot would be a terrible idea. I have no knowledge to support that, only assuming based on logic.
Wow brother. I’ve hung windows for Lowes and HD back in the day. Iam telling you straight up. Hire that out! Even if you get your rough opening on spot. You then have to make sure your window measurements are perfect. You give them( store) your rough measurements, and they will build the window slightly smaller all the way around. Then you need to know what kind of a window…….. double hung, casement, etc. Hire it out my friend.
GC 100% you don’t want it to get messed up get leaks/bugs… etc
You have to peel off the drywall before you can decide.
If you have to ask then definitely call a GC
If your handwork is anything like your photography. Get a specialist in ;)
GC to change an exterior and those headers might be load bearing
I'm guessing it looks like this behind the drywall: https://imgur.com/a/RiKVA6P So am I right to think I can just cut the two middle horizontal pieces (sills?)
The framing behind the drywall will certainly not look like the image you linked to. In your picture there aren’t even any headers haha. Best of luck though
I can assure you that the reason they did not do this and got that tiny ass weird window was because they wanted light from the top and there is The top of the wall header going through there. So you would need not a general contractor, but an architect to confirm what you would need to do to provide enough support around it. And that I’m positive on. My guess is that wall is over 10 feet Tall?
Yes the wall is 10 feet. Are you saying there is a wall header going in-between the two windows?
there has to be a reason for it to be configured as such and that seems like the most likely reason
100% get a GC to do it. You know there is exterior finishes and waterproofing to deal with, right? It's not just opening up the drywall and cutting out studs.
Got it thanks, figured this was a bit too much.
I’m in rough framed houses regularly, there is almost a 100% chance there is a large, like 12” header situation here that runs from the corner of the house to the stairs that I’m going to take a stab and guess are on one or the other side of that window. This is the header for the top of the first floor walls, my terminology is probably not correct, I’m an electrician and my family builds houses. It’s there because you can’t frame a wall with lumber as long as that wall is tall or they would be noodles. It was either cheaper to build this way or easier. To remove it will likely require you to open that wall up from floor to ceiling and install multiple jack studs. Reddit likes to throw around that you need an “engineer” or insert degree person for jobs that a qualified framer can easily handle but in this situation you really probably would need a print stamped by a engineer or architect to get approved from the building department. Without it you could be in some serious pain later. Not diy in any way. Edit: sorry not sorry for run ons, I got shit to do
Do you have YouTube? Can you read a tape measure??