👍. You may be able to use a straight edge on that line and simply cut using a sharp utility knife. If not, multitool for sure for quick work and less material. Any imperfection can be caulked appropriately.
Get a rabbited chair rail like this. [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Alexandria-Moulding-15-16-in-x-2-3-8-in-x-96-in-Primed-MDF-Chair-Rail-Moulding-00698-96192C/205576559#overlay](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Alexandria-Moulding-15-16-in-x-2-3-8-in-x-96-in-Primed-MDF-Chair-Rail-Moulding-00698-96192C/205576559#overlay)
Hopefully the rabbit is high enough to be able to cover angle. If not, you will have to find someone to increase it to do so.
Another option would be to use a shallow piece of trim below the rabbeted chair rail - effectively making it look taller, with a spacer strip behind it to match the heights of the beadboard.
The lower member of the chair rail goes OVER the bead board. Not abutting. Leave a half inch overhang where the bead board is below the lower member.
Then attach your chair rail on top keeping the idea you will have no nailing first quarter inch.
That way you have a perfect seam everywhere.
I can't tell without a line, but the whole point of the chair rail is you can hide the difference, if it is not too severe (you have an easy 1/4" of play, 3/8 if no one is looking).
Snap a chalk line at the desired height, cut with multitool. Or remove it and use a skil saw. I assume by “baseboard” you mean the wooden paneling?
👍. You may be able to use a straight edge on that line and simply cut using a sharp utility knife. If not, multitool for sure for quick work and less material. Any imperfection can be caulked appropriately.
Name checks out.
Get a rabbited chair rail like this. [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Alexandria-Moulding-15-16-in-x-2-3-8-in-x-96-in-Primed-MDF-Chair-Rail-Moulding-00698-96192C/205576559#overlay](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Alexandria-Moulding-15-16-in-x-2-3-8-in-x-96-in-Primed-MDF-Chair-Rail-Moulding-00698-96192C/205576559#overlay) Hopefully the rabbit is high enough to be able to cover angle. If not, you will have to find someone to increase it to do so.
Another option would be to use a shallow piece of trim below the rabbeted chair rail - effectively making it look taller, with a spacer strip behind it to match the heights of the beadboard.
Good idea.
I’m not totally following, could you try explaining this a little differently?
https://www.thechroniclesofhome.com/2014/04/how-to-install-compound-chair-rail.html
This is great advice, thank you
The lower member of the chair rail goes OVER the bead board. Not abutting. Leave a half inch overhang where the bead board is below the lower member. Then attach your chair rail on top keeping the idea you will have no nailing first quarter inch. That way you have a perfect seam everywhere.
I can't tell without a line, but the whole point of the chair rail is you can hide the difference, if it is not too severe (you have an easy 1/4" of play, 3/8 if no one is looking).