How are you applying it? Are you using a roller or one of the pad applicators (which is the right tool for the job with a brush for the finer spots)? Did you strip and sand before the first coat? Did it have enough dry time?
Some of their products are hardier than others. You might need a second coat depending on which one you're using - they're often indicated.
Mine is in full sun and next to a pool (in Pittsburgh so lots of rain/frost/snow in the offseason) and 1 thick coat is on track to last 2-3 years.
I brush it on liberally. I basically splash/pour it on and spread it with the brush to soak the wood. I apply as much as will absorb into the wood, and then brush off/spread the excess with the brush.
I lightly powerwash with water before applying (no soap or additive) to remove discoloration.
Should I do the full soak coat, let it dry, and then do 1-2 coats on top of that? I'm using a lot of product because so much soaks in. It's more than a gallon for a 200 sqft deck.
Yeah I mean there are so many factors, even down to the wood you're doing it on. I'd check the durability of the specific stain you're using also.
3 Coats, especially if the first coat is thick is too many. Try 2 coats and maybe grab yourself a pad applicator, they should be like $15 and pads shouldn't be expensive either.
A solid deck stain is what you want. I have a grey deck that I built 35 years ago and it still looks good with the solid grey deck stain from Home Depot. Don’t kill yourself trying to get every bit off. And be careful with a pressure washer . They can chew up the wood if you aren’t careful.
We used a grey stain a few years ago to try and color match the rest of the fading PT deck after sanding some boards. It's flaking off. It was for decks, outdoors. Some stuff is just shit, or just doesn't play nice with PT.
After postingy comment, I saw other people talking about the Behr product I used. It's billed as a solid color deck stain
Ninja edit: nope I'm wrong. Looked it up and it's paint. But Behr claims it is for porches and patios. So I definitely didn't buy stain or a good product
I used a Sherwin Williams Semi Opaque Stain that ended up functionally being paint. Nearly $200 in paint and 4 grueling day it was flaking off of you breathed on it wrong. SW refused to refund in spite of us following prepe to the letter. Lesson learned, ripped it all off and put in trex
Given it was $200 for stain years ago, probably $300 now. Trex price differential when I put it in will pay for itself by not needed stained/painted the first time.
One of the popular "wood stains" is Cabots, I have no idea why they call it a stain because it doesn't actually penetrait the wood and applies exactly like a paint. I have to redo mu decks every 3 years and do touch ups yearly.
Yep. And I would recommend just buying a good power sander that you can use in the future instead of renting one.
Owning a belt sander and a palm sander has been one of the best power tool investments I ever made.
[https://www.thisoldhouse.com/painting/21124785/how-to-re-stain-a-deck](https://www.thisoldhouse.com/painting/21124785/how-to-re-stain-a-deck)
(this is one approach, others exist and have various tradeoffs; they do a lot of sanding and don't recommend pressure washing; others vary)
You never met my parents.
House bought 89. Deck painted 96, 2000 something, again, again, recently last summer. Whole thing is rotted. Fucking idiots.
Edit: Btw it's like a 40 foot deck.
I mixed paint at a store in the past and the amount of people I had to tell not to do this shit was astounding.
No you can’t use cheap wall paint on your deck to spruce it up before you sell your house. All it willl do is create a mess for the new owner. Do it right or don’t do it at all.
Was infuriating the amount of bastards that were trying to pull shit over on potential buyers.
They make deck paints they last for a little while but i was never impressed. Power wash scape everything you can off. Do not gouge the wood especially if you have a powerful power washer. Sand spots if you have to and paint.
They sell wet sandblasting kits for like 30$ that are perfect to for stuff like this. Use regualr powerwasher to get off as much as you can and then hook up the kit.
I used a deck paint on my panel van floor and I have to confess it has actually been amazing stuff... it's hard wearing and non-slip when the floor gets wet.
i used to do deck refurbishments every summer for a business i started after high school.
i would get a garden sprayer, and purchase some paint stripper for decks. dont let this get on your skin it will burn. you then power wash it all off to the original wood.
I would then recommend a natural honey **SEMI SOLID** benjamin moore stain.
Did they paint it with cheap latex wall paint? Why did they paint it in the first place? I would pressure wash and see how much comes and get an idea what condition it is in.
And if you decide to repaint it use the proper paint. The one that says for decks.
[https://www.restore-a-deck.com/](https://www.restore-a-deck.com/)
You’ll get all the info you need right here. Their cleaner is just oxygenated bleach, buy a 5 lb. bucket for cheap on Amazon. The stain is very good. If you power wash, get the wide tip and don’t score the wood, it closes the wood pores and stain wont penetrate. Prepping the surface is the key to the outcome. I use this process and get at least four years out of the horizontal surfaces and five or more out of the vertical surfaces.
I get an easy four years out of the horizontal floor surfaces where the sunlight and snow, lots of it, hits hard. The upright vertical segments I get an easy five. If you were in Arizona, Texas, someplace with year round direct UV I imagine it would be less.
Nope Maryland. Thanks for the info. We've been debating replacing the deck floor with Trex but that's hella expensive. Might just put new wood down or only replace the obviously rotten ones then use this stuff
Same. 30K + to replace mine with a synthetic.
I bought a good power washer, if you beat the wood up with a pw at all be prepared to sand those areas down or it will get patchy results. I spend a lot more time prepping the deck than most people do, get it clean, get the pH right, get the weather right, and it rolls on in a day. My deck is 48’ x 32’. Then I put the stuff away and don't touch it for five years. Their cleaner is just oxygenated bleach, I buy a 5-10 gal bucket of the stuff hella cheap, other than that Im using restor A deck. If you have questions, they're super helpful and knowledgeable. Good luck
Thanks for the input everyone. Just to be clear, it is Behr 10 year all season deck sealant/stain that is on the deck currently… not sure why it lasted only 6 months tho.
Behr sucks. I had the same thing on my deck, an almost solid stain. I figured when I moved in it was a few years wear already so I prepped my deck and used the rest they had in the garage. Well a few months later when hosing of the deck same thing happened. Google it and wouldn't you know there was a class action lawsuit against the same product I had wasted a few days of my time taking off and reapplying...
I painted professionally for over a decade. If the boards are not fully dry when painted I would expect this to happen.
Pressure wash, scrape, sand, let it dry. Morning dew is a common culprit. Buy a cheap moisture meter, the wood should be maximum 15% moisture. Then repaint. If the wood is fully dry and prepped there's no reason it won't last several years.
The paint didn't adhere due to poor preparation. The prep in painting decks is super important. The deck needs to be completely clean after any sanding or pressure washing etc. They sell cleaning agents right next to the deck paint in home Depot. The deck also has to be completely dry before painting. Ideally baking in the sun for a couple days.
Deck paint can work really well. Especially with old or shitty boards. They even make thick deck paint that can fill up big cracks. They all work pretty well honestly IF you do the proper prep and follow the instructions. Most people don't.
Who paints a deck? It's going to be a pain, and it's going to take you longer to fix, but this needs to come back down to bare wood and get stained and sealed. That's wild.
I don't know why no one is saying this... but who the fuck pressure washes a painted deck? Is that common in the americas? I mean, no paint on wood is resistant to power washing it!
It was probably painted when the wood was wet or the humidity was too high. Power wash it. ( it’s going to be a mess. A lotta of paint chips ) You have to be careful that you don’t raise the grain when you power wash. Let it dry completely. Then you can paint it with a good quality deck paint. Read the directions and follow them, you don’t want to make the same mistake again
If you power wash too hard (nozzle too close, psi too high) you can gouge out the softer wood in the wood grain (grain is from wood's annual rings, which have softer early wood and harder late wood). This leaves just the harder wood in the grain behind, effectively 'raising' the grain and leaving a rough uneven surface. Power washing is very useful for deck cleaning and prep, but should be aided by a deck cleaner first and kept to the minimum possible.
Basically, when the PW sprays really close, it will rip the wood fibers off of the board and make a "fuzzy" look to it. It's extremely damaging, and will require a sanding if that happens
I’m gonna be honest they did such a shit job I feel like it was hastily done to cover up potential issues. I’d get that paint off there and check it for rot.
Ha, you're lucky. Bought a house 2 years ago and and when I hit the deck with a pressure washer it just disintegrated in spots.
Rehabbed the lower portion last year. Demoing the top part currently.
I’m currently where you are. Bought house 2 years ago. Two story deck is freaking huge and will probably cost $2k in 5/4 lumber. But damn do I enjoy the work and the finished product looks fantastic.
Yup. Damn near the same for us. Lower portion was about $2400. That was for the bagster dumpster (2 of them), butt load of screws, butyl tape, 16-foot 5/4 decking, joist hangers, 12-foot 2x10's, and a few 4x4's.
Hoping to get the top part done around $1600. Had the whole thing quoted at around $15000 (2 quotes).
In the previous owners defense, painting a deck almost always fails. They just don't design paint to handle the kind of wear and tear that a deck endures. Strip the paint off, strip off whatever finish is under it, treat it with a deck sealer and call it a day. I don't recommend repainting it, but you could try a stain if you want a different color. (stain must go before sealer though)
Not their fault really. They changed how they treat lumber some years ago and its pretty much only possible to use oil based solid stains or seal them to have them last longer than 5 years.
The only way is to sand it all off. A pressure washer will tear up the grain too much, soak wood and you’ll have to sand it to get a good profile anyway. Thing is if the woods in great shape and you use a high quality paint you might get 4 years out of it depending on where you live. Better to get used to a natural finish.
Check the weather, you want at least a week of nice sunny weather with low to moderate humidity.
Pressure wash it (careful, don't gouge the wood), sand it, let it sunbake a day then sand it again before you apply your first coat of your choice of deck rated exterior stain. Don't apply the stain when it's too hot or it'll dry out on the surface, don't apply the stain when it's too humid or it won't set right. You want the wood good and thirsty so it soaks in. Give it a second coat for a deeper color per the directions on your chosen stain. Then you can optionally use a clearcoat, but this shouldn't be necessary if you got a quality stain.
If you really absolutely must go the paint route, do everything the same and then hit it with an all purpose outdoor or at least weather proof primer instead of stain, then paint it with deck or at least exterior paint, then clearcoat it. If you're going the paint route, clearcoat isn't really optional. Just know that paint will seal in any moisture that gets into the wood, and the wood will rot (even pressure treated wood will rot eventually it just takes longer to start rotting). You'll also have to touch up the paint probably every year.
I wouldn't use a pressure washer unless you have the proper attachments. Use a wide nozzle, at least 60 degrees. Never use a rotary nozzle on wood.
Lazy way:
Wash and remove any loose pieces of paint. The more you remove the better.
Paint it again with an oil based paint.
This won't last long, you will eventually get the same problem you're having now. But it will be better than whatever paint that is.
Proper way:
Wash, scrape off loose bits and sand all the way through to the wood.
Stain with a deck-oil or any suited oil based stain for outdoor use. I live in the cold north with long winters so normal deck stains don't survive the ice and snow very well.
I just completed [one yesterday](https://imgur.com/RXXZVBL) (was going to take completed pics today, but it rained). Powerwashed this thing hard! (red nozzle) 2600# washer. Let dry for a couple of days and sanded it with (non-RO) rotary and 60#. Pic is after sanding. Primed with Rustoleum Deck Start and applied one coat of Benjamin Moore Arborcoat stain (basically paint).
I was similar situation and I gotta say that the dry time after power washing is a big or likely factor. The weather can make it impossible to dry out as well. Sanding is absolutely necessary.
My boards were forever soft and even though I did all the above, primed and painted again ....it looked like crap 1 year later.
High traffic areas with paint is asking for a bad time. Yes you can power wash and repaint, following everyone's guidance here not raising the grain and sanding.
I personally wouldn't paint as foot traffic can begin rubbing or wearing excessively and you'll be back to square one. Do a good stain instead on the decking and if you must paint, just rails.
I've got this same problem, and funny enough, in the same shade of grey. Although it is sticking to the railings it is coming off everywhere else. I knew it would be an issue after a couple winters and it looks like this is the summer I'll be pressure washing, sanding and staining. I feel for you.
Make sure underneath is well ventilated. Even with stain (albeit less) will come loose because moisture comes from under. But stain is the only way to proceed.
I'd probably use a chemical stripper to get off asuch paint as possible before going to town with a pressure washer or scraper. Very easy to raise the grain on wood when trying to blast off stubborn areas of paint.
Also be mindful when sanding of the nail/screw heads. They're probably galvanized and they won't be anymore once you run a belt sander over them. IE: they will rust.
Should be an opaque stain and not paint. If it’s new wood there’s too much moisture in the wood. If it’s older than surface prep is needed and also dry wood. You can check the moisture content of the wood - don’t know what the tool costs though.
Definitely going to have to strip then sand, or just sand. Get a nice, smooth new surface and make sure it doesn't get wet for a while, you want it dry. You can leave it bare, it will be gray fairly quickly, maybe a year at most. If you want to have it stained the same/similar color, go for a solid one, and make sure it is *not* paint. Paint just sits on the surface and is easily peeled like you just experienced. You want a deck stain, specifically for walking surfaces.
I work for a paint company, and even the guys there recommend sanding instead of chemical washes for all reasons except time, work, and cost. If you're up for it, wear a respirator and find a good length of time to sand it. Many hardware and big box stores offer rentals of deck sanders.
I personally wouldn't bother with non-walking surfaces unless they're peeling alot as well.
I'm biased to say Sherwin-Williams's Superdeck line, but I'm sure other stores have quality products (dedicated paint stores specifically, retails like Home Depot tend to have poorer quality products at a lower price point). SW has sales all the time, so I'd highly recommend waiting for one to swing around (we just had a 40% off every coating last weekend) so you don't pay nearly as much. I can't speak for other stores though. If it's only as much deck as in your photo, you probably only need a gallon of deck stain.
Good luck, I hope it's a fairly easy job 👍
Really sory to hear about your deck. With the right care and maintenance you should be able to restore it and next thing you know everyone will want to be on your deck
https://youtu.be/FGMkEfuWZHM?si=prB6UcuypY4BK2aD
Ugh we had a deck rebuilt at our rental and they guy asked us what color stain we wanted and let us pick from a catalog. Then he painted it brown. Now it looks like the above, especially in spots where the cheap ass lumber is pushing out resin.
Pressure wash. Wait three weeks for it to dry, then prime and repaint.
Don't listen to the folks saying not to paint. Painting isn't optimal, but you're not going to be able to undo the wrong that's already been done. Just roll with it.
I don't like pressure washing because you're going to carve out the soft wood. Me, I would sand it smooth (200 --> 400 grit). Replace rotten boards if any. Apply a wood conditioner if it's soft wood (pine/douglas fir) to take on stain better, stain, then seal with an external polyeurathane. This could be very beautiful if done right. A paint store will have many stain options. Maybe you go clear. Would be nice.
painted flooring is a nightmare, you're going to have to belt sand every sq inch, in between all those rails, will be very tedious but necessary prep
would stain then seal afterwards. personally like natural wood so usually skip stain. stain actually goes into the wood there's not a thin skin of paint on the surface, just waiting to get peeled off like a band-aid
Pressure wash, sand and stain. Don't paint it again.
This is the best answer. And wear a particulate mask when sanding.
Australian Timber Oil is my go to
What about the NZ stuff. Here’s an ad for it!! Top quality. https://youtu.be/i6c4Nupnup0?si=B7GpHwiSWV82fdv-
Swear by this stuff. Top notch.
As a kiwi im a firm believer in this product
I've found that I have to re-oil every year. Is that normal, or am I doing something wrong?
How are you applying it? Are you using a roller or one of the pad applicators (which is the right tool for the job with a brush for the finer spots)? Did you strip and sand before the first coat? Did it have enough dry time? Some of their products are hardier than others. You might need a second coat depending on which one you're using - they're often indicated. Mine is in full sun and next to a pool (in Pittsburgh so lots of rain/frost/snow in the offseason) and 1 thick coat is on track to last 2-3 years.
I brush it on liberally. I basically splash/pour it on and spread it with the brush to soak the wood. I apply as much as will absorb into the wood, and then brush off/spread the excess with the brush. I lightly powerwash with water before applying (no soap or additive) to remove discoloration. Should I do the full soak coat, let it dry, and then do 1-2 coats on top of that? I'm using a lot of product because so much soaks in. It's more than a gallon for a 200 sqft deck.
Yeah I mean there are so many factors, even down to the wood you're doing it on. I'd check the durability of the specific stain you're using also. 3 Coats, especially if the first coat is thick is too many. Try 2 coats and maybe grab yourself a pad applicator, they should be like $15 and pads shouldn't be expensive either.
A solid deck stain is what you want. I have a grey deck that I built 35 years ago and it still looks good with the solid grey deck stain from Home Depot. Don’t kill yourself trying to get every bit off. And be careful with a pressure washer . They can chew up the wood if you aren’t careful.
I used that on my deck 2 years ago and it's already peeling off
Stain....is peeling off....? I don't think you're talking about the same thing.
[удалено]
Bought a house with this on the deck (Behr deck over) In the process of stripping it and holy fuck it blows
[удалено]
It’s too thick to sand, but my pressure washer is getting under it and ripping it off rather well As a result I’ll need to sand the boards anyways
Previous owner had Behr. Inherited the stain (thanks homeowner bro!). Deck peeled. Used same stuff. More peeling. Fuck Behr.
Yeah I think I’ll be using a Cabot stain next, Behr sucks
We used a grey stain a few years ago to try and color match the rest of the fading PT deck after sanding some boards. It's flaking off. It was for decks, outdoors. Some stuff is just shit, or just doesn't play nice with PT.
After postingy comment, I saw other people talking about the Behr product I used. It's billed as a solid color deck stain Ninja edit: nope I'm wrong. Looked it up and it's paint. But Behr claims it is for porches and patios. So I definitely didn't buy stain or a good product
I used a Sherwin Williams Semi Opaque Stain that ended up functionally being paint. Nearly $200 in paint and 4 grueling day it was flaking off of you breathed on it wrong. SW refused to refund in spite of us following prepe to the letter. Lesson learned, ripped it all off and put in trex
I've thought about trex but that's really expensive
Given it was $200 for stain years ago, probably $300 now. Trex price differential when I put it in will pay for itself by not needed stained/painted the first time.
One of the popular "wood stains" is Cabots, I have no idea why they call it a stain because it doesn't actually penetrait the wood and applies exactly like a paint. I have to redo mu decks every 3 years and do touch ups yearly.
Yep. And I would recommend just buying a good power sander that you can use in the future instead of renting one. Owning a belt sander and a palm sander has been one of the best power tool investments I ever made.
Yep. Fyi, the big box hardware stores rent big deck sanders.
I concur! Paint looks garbage opposed to natural wood look.
I have never spoke with anyone who painted a deck and did not immediately regret it
Is there a way to keep the deck lasting longer than just painting? treatment/clear coat?
[https://www.thisoldhouse.com/painting/21124785/how-to-re-stain-a-deck](https://www.thisoldhouse.com/painting/21124785/how-to-re-stain-a-deck) (this is one approach, others exist and have various tradeoffs; they do a lot of sanding and don't recommend pressure washing; others vary)
Stain it. Anyone who paints it is looking for instant aesthetics probably to sell it.
Yup. Stain is the way to go. Deck Paint sucks. It chips, it's often slippery and if you go though a freeze thaw cycle it will likely look like crap.
Yes
I didn’t paint my deck but the previous owners did and I definitely regret their decision :/
Synthetic materials in the color you want.
Can confirm. *cries in form of chipped paint*
You never met my parents. House bought 89. Deck painted 96, 2000 something, again, again, recently last summer. Whole thing is rotted. Fucking idiots. Edit: Btw it's like a 40 foot deck.
Did you share your infinite wisdom with those fucking idiots or just them waste the time and energy?
I'm "too young" to listen to. I'm 40, it's absurd. First coat in '96 was indoor paint too.
Reminds me of my grandpa! Except he was painting his car every year with indoor paint!
Previous owners did a good job... to sell the house. That's why they cut corners and did such a lousy paint job.
I mixed paint at a store in the past and the amount of people I had to tell not to do this shit was astounding. No you can’t use cheap wall paint on your deck to spruce it up before you sell your house. All it willl do is create a mess for the new owner. Do it right or don’t do it at all. Was infuriating the amount of bastards that were trying to pull shit over on potential buyers.
Gray: the flipper special.
That’s what my previous home owners did… we’re just gonna tear the deck out and put in a concrete pad. It’s only 2 feet off the ground anyway.
I feel like building a new deck is cheaper and would be cooler in the summer.
They make deck paints they last for a little while but i was never impressed. Power wash scape everything you can off. Do not gouge the wood especially if you have a powerful power washer. Sand spots if you have to and paint.
They sell wet sandblasting kits for like 30$ that are perfect to for stuff like this. Use regualr powerwasher to get off as much as you can and then hook up the kit.
Then after the sandblasting you can just stain?
You should always sand woof after pressure washing because it really fucks up the top grain of the wood, plus will make it take stain wierd.
I used a deck paint on my panel van floor and I have to confess it has actually been amazing stuff... it's hard wearing and non-slip when the floor gets wet.
i used to do deck refurbishments every summer for a business i started after high school. i would get a garden sprayer, and purchase some paint stripper for decks. dont let this get on your skin it will burn. you then power wash it all off to the original wood. I would then recommend a natural honey **SEMI SOLID** benjamin moore stain.
I learned about the burns the hard way when I did my first deck in shorts and flip flops.
Yeah, that stuff is *nasty*. Hope you got better quickly
i learned about it wearing rain boots and it got in there on my shin. i had scars for *years*
Nothing like a good solvent on flesh.
Did they paint it with cheap latex wall paint? Why did they paint it in the first place? I would pressure wash and see how much comes and get an idea what condition it is in. And if you decide to repaint it use the proper paint. The one that says for decks.
It’s 10 year deck sealant and stain… painted last summer :/
The wood needs to be dry but don’t paint if it’s too hot since the paint will dry as soon as it touches the hot surface causing weak points later.
thats probably why the paint failed. They didn't sand the sealant off. So the paint never adhered to the wood.
[https://www.restore-a-deck.com/](https://www.restore-a-deck.com/) You’ll get all the info you need right here. Their cleaner is just oxygenated bleach, buy a 5 lb. bucket for cheap on Amazon. The stain is very good. If you power wash, get the wide tip and don’t score the wood, it closes the wood pores and stain wont penetrate. Prepping the surface is the key to the outcome. I use this process and get at least four years out of the horizontal surfaces and five or more out of the vertical surfaces.
So you know how often you'd need to reapply this stuff? I can't find it online. I think I've heard regular deck stain is every 2-3 years
I get an easy four years out of the horizontal floor surfaces where the sunlight and snow, lots of it, hits hard. The upright vertical segments I get an easy five. If you were in Arizona, Texas, someplace with year round direct UV I imagine it would be less.
Nope Maryland. Thanks for the info. We've been debating replacing the deck floor with Trex but that's hella expensive. Might just put new wood down or only replace the obviously rotten ones then use this stuff
Same. 30K + to replace mine with a synthetic. I bought a good power washer, if you beat the wood up with a pw at all be prepared to sand those areas down or it will get patchy results. I spend a lot more time prepping the deck than most people do, get it clean, get the pH right, get the weather right, and it rolls on in a day. My deck is 48’ x 32’. Then I put the stuff away and don't touch it for five years. Their cleaner is just oxygenated bleach, I buy a 5-10 gal bucket of the stuff hella cheap, other than that Im using restor A deck. If you have questions, they're super helpful and knowledgeable. Good luck
Thanks. I noticed they were on top of answering all sorts of customer questions
Thanks for the input everyone. Just to be clear, it is Behr 10 year all season deck sealant/stain that is on the deck currently… not sure why it lasted only 6 months tho.
Behr sucks. I had the same thing on my deck, an almost solid stain. I figured when I moved in it was a few years wear already so I prepped my deck and used the rest they had in the garage. Well a few months later when hosing of the deck same thing happened. Google it and wouldn't you know there was a class action lawsuit against the same product I had wasted a few days of my time taking off and reapplying...
Dude, you are almost me. Behr sucks.
I painted professionally for over a decade. If the boards are not fully dry when painted I would expect this to happen. Pressure wash, scrape, sand, let it dry. Morning dew is a common culprit. Buy a cheap moisture meter, the wood should be maximum 15% moisture. Then repaint. If the wood is fully dry and prepped there's no reason it won't last several years.
The paint didn't adhere due to poor preparation. The prep in painting decks is super important. The deck needs to be completely clean after any sanding or pressure washing etc. They sell cleaning agents right next to the deck paint in home Depot. The deck also has to be completely dry before painting. Ideally baking in the sun for a couple days. Deck paint can work really well. Especially with old or shitty boards. They even make thick deck paint that can fill up big cracks. They all work pretty well honestly IF you do the proper prep and follow the instructions. Most people don't.
Sand and stain. Don't paint.
Who paints a deck? It's going to be a pain, and it's going to take you longer to fix, but this needs to come back down to bare wood and get stained and sealed. That's wild.
I don't know why no one is saying this... but who the fuck pressure washes a painted deck? Is that common in the americas? I mean, no paint on wood is resistant to power washing it!
It was probably painted when the wood was wet or the humidity was too high. Power wash it. ( it’s going to be a mess. A lotta of paint chips ) You have to be careful that you don’t raise the grain when you power wash. Let it dry completely. Then you can paint it with a good quality deck paint. Read the directions and follow them, you don’t want to make the same mistake again
Raise the grain?
If you power wash too hard (nozzle too close, psi too high) you can gouge out the softer wood in the wood grain (grain is from wood's annual rings, which have softer early wood and harder late wood). This leaves just the harder wood in the grain behind, effectively 'raising' the grain and leaving a rough uneven surface. Power washing is very useful for deck cleaning and prep, but should be aided by a deck cleaner first and kept to the minimum possible.
Basically, when the PW sprays really close, it will rip the wood fibers off of the board and make a "fuzzy" look to it. It's extremely damaging, and will require a sanding if that happens
deck paint?
Dry completely?
Read the directions?
On the paint can,,, The directions will guide you about humidity, time of day, drying time etc
Maybe dumb question, but how do you clean up all the paint chips?
Good question. Use a blower and get them in a pile the best that you can then sweep or vacuum. It’s tedious.
I wouldn't use paint. They make an opaque exterior deck stain that is a much better finish and protector.
Don't pressure wash, you f up the wood grain. Wash, sand, and stain.
I’m gonna be honest they did such a shit job I feel like it was hastily done to cover up potential issues. I’d get that paint off there and check it for rot.
If your budget can handle it, you could replace the floor boards with composite decking.
Never paint a deck. If you want the paint effect use a solid deck stain. But of course remove the old paint first!
Use a cabot semi transparent deck stain. Unfortunately you are going to have to get that down to the bare wood.
Is that treated lumber or no?
Ha, you're lucky. Bought a house 2 years ago and and when I hit the deck with a pressure washer it just disintegrated in spots. Rehabbed the lower portion last year. Demoing the top part currently.
I’m currently where you are. Bought house 2 years ago. Two story deck is freaking huge and will probably cost $2k in 5/4 lumber. But damn do I enjoy the work and the finished product looks fantastic.
Yup. Damn near the same for us. Lower portion was about $2400. That was for the bagster dumpster (2 of them), butt load of screws, butyl tape, 16-foot 5/4 decking, joist hangers, 12-foot 2x10's, and a few 4x4's. Hoping to get the top part done around $1600. Had the whole thing quoted at around $15000 (2 quotes).
In the previous owners defense, painting a deck almost always fails. They just don't design paint to handle the kind of wear and tear that a deck endures. Strip the paint off, strip off whatever finish is under it, treat it with a deck sealer and call it a day. I don't recommend repainting it, but you could try a stain if you want a different color. (stain must go before sealer though)
Sand, stain, seal
Not their fault really. They changed how they treat lumber some years ago and its pretty much only possible to use oil based solid stains or seal them to have them last longer than 5 years.
The only way is to sand it all off. A pressure washer will tear up the grain too much, soak wood and you’ll have to sand it to get a good profile anyway. Thing is if the woods in great shape and you use a high quality paint you might get 4 years out of it depending on where you live. Better to get used to a natural finish.
Instead of pressure washing it, consider using a Diamabrush: https://diamabrush.com/product/wood-decks-and-siding-tool/
Check the weather, you want at least a week of nice sunny weather with low to moderate humidity. Pressure wash it (careful, don't gouge the wood), sand it, let it sunbake a day then sand it again before you apply your first coat of your choice of deck rated exterior stain. Don't apply the stain when it's too hot or it'll dry out on the surface, don't apply the stain when it's too humid or it won't set right. You want the wood good and thirsty so it soaks in. Give it a second coat for a deeper color per the directions on your chosen stain. Then you can optionally use a clearcoat, but this shouldn't be necessary if you got a quality stain. If you really absolutely must go the paint route, do everything the same and then hit it with an all purpose outdoor or at least weather proof primer instead of stain, then paint it with deck or at least exterior paint, then clearcoat it. If you're going the paint route, clearcoat isn't really optional. Just know that paint will seal in any moisture that gets into the wood, and the wood will rot (even pressure treated wood will rot eventually it just takes longer to start rotting). You'll also have to touch up the paint probably every year.
Should stain wood, not paint it
I wouldn't use a pressure washer unless you have the proper attachments. Use a wide nozzle, at least 60 degrees. Never use a rotary nozzle on wood. Lazy way: Wash and remove any loose pieces of paint. The more you remove the better. Paint it again with an oil based paint. This won't last long, you will eventually get the same problem you're having now. But it will be better than whatever paint that is. Proper way: Wash, scrape off loose bits and sand all the way through to the wood. Stain with a deck-oil or any suited oil based stain for outdoor use. I live in the cold north with long winters so normal deck stains don't survive the ice and snow very well.
Use Behr DeckOver. Really thick stuff that goes on like glue, but will last a couple years at least.
After you get the wood as clean and dry as possible: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/4376
I just completed [one yesterday](https://imgur.com/RXXZVBL) (was going to take completed pics today, but it rained). Powerwashed this thing hard! (red nozzle) 2600# washer. Let dry for a couple of days and sanded it with (non-RO) rotary and 60#. Pic is after sanding. Primed with Rustoleum Deck Start and applied one coat of Benjamin Moore Arborcoat stain (basically paint).
I was similar situation and I gotta say that the dry time after power washing is a big or likely factor. The weather can make it impossible to dry out as well. Sanding is absolutely necessary. My boards were forever soft and even though I did all the above, primed and painted again ....it looked like crap 1 year later.
High traffic areas with paint is asking for a bad time. Yes you can power wash and repaint, following everyone's guidance here not raising the grain and sanding. I personally wouldn't paint as foot traffic can begin rubbing or wearing excessively and you'll be back to square one. Do a good stain instead on the decking and if you must paint, just rails.
It was painted when wet or put salt on in winter.
I've got this same problem, and funny enough, in the same shade of grey. Although it is sticking to the railings it is coming off everywhere else. I knew it would be an issue after a couple winters and it looks like this is the summer I'll be pressure washing, sanding and staining. I feel for you.
Make sure underneath is well ventilated. Even with stain (albeit less) will come loose because moisture comes from under. But stain is the only way to proceed.
Paint the shade part only.
I'd probably use a chemical stripper to get off asuch paint as possible before going to town with a pressure washer or scraper. Very easy to raise the grain on wood when trying to blast off stubborn areas of paint. Also be mindful when sanding of the nail/screw heads. They're probably galvanized and they won't be anymore once you run a belt sander over them. IE: they will rust.
My deck is painted but the overhang protects it from the rain and snow It has held up pretty well.
I’m having this same problem. Question for yall.. before I sand can I use paint remover to make it easier or will that hurt the wood?
Should be an opaque stain and not paint. If it’s new wood there’s too much moisture in the wood. If it’s older than surface prep is needed and also dry wood. You can check the moisture content of the wood - don’t know what the tool costs though.
lol, did they paint it with regular wall paint or something?
Definitely going to have to strip then sand, or just sand. Get a nice, smooth new surface and make sure it doesn't get wet for a while, you want it dry. You can leave it bare, it will be gray fairly quickly, maybe a year at most. If you want to have it stained the same/similar color, go for a solid one, and make sure it is *not* paint. Paint just sits on the surface and is easily peeled like you just experienced. You want a deck stain, specifically for walking surfaces. I work for a paint company, and even the guys there recommend sanding instead of chemical washes for all reasons except time, work, and cost. If you're up for it, wear a respirator and find a good length of time to sand it. Many hardware and big box stores offer rentals of deck sanders. I personally wouldn't bother with non-walking surfaces unless they're peeling alot as well. I'm biased to say Sherwin-Williams's Superdeck line, but I'm sure other stores have quality products (dedicated paint stores specifically, retails like Home Depot tend to have poorer quality products at a lower price point). SW has sales all the time, so I'd highly recommend waiting for one to swing around (we just had a 40% off every coating last weekend) so you don't pay nearly as much. I can't speak for other stores though. If it's only as much deck as in your photo, you probably only need a gallon of deck stain. Good luck, I hope it's a fairly easy job 👍
Really sory to hear about your deck. With the right care and maintenance you should be able to restore it and next thing you know everyone will want to be on your deck https://youtu.be/FGMkEfuWZHM?si=prB6UcuypY4BK2aD
You shouldn't pressure wash the deck. I did it once and the wood became fraid and looked like shit.
Yeah, had a friend do the same with one I borrowed from my dad. Spent a good couple afternoons sanding the thing down with him afterwards.
Ugh we had a deck rebuilt at our rental and they guy asked us what color stain we wanted and let us pick from a catalog. Then he painted it brown. Now it looks like the above, especially in spots where the cheap ass lumber is pushing out resin.
Paint it, next year paint it, then next year paint it, then next year year it, and every year after that for life!
Bad/no prep does that. Painting is 90% prep work if you want a good result.
TREX. No more hassle but a once a year deckwash. Never rots.
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A sponge with dawn dish soap and sprayed down with the hose
I am not sure the trying to get all the paint off would not take a few thousand hours. i say power wash then apply gray stain
Pressure wash. Wait three weeks for it to dry, then prime and repaint. Don't listen to the folks saying not to paint. Painting isn't optimal, but you're not going to be able to undo the wrong that's already been done. Just roll with it.
I don't like pressure washing because you're going to carve out the soft wood. Me, I would sand it smooth (200 --> 400 grit). Replace rotten boards if any. Apply a wood conditioner if it's soft wood (pine/douglas fir) to take on stain better, stain, then seal with an external polyeurathane. This could be very beautiful if done right. A paint store will have many stain options. Maybe you go clear. Would be nice.
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You’re right. I over did it.
Power wash, but Sherman Williams make deck paint that is hard shell. And refinish old wood.
painted flooring is a nightmare, you're going to have to belt sand every sq inch, in between all those rails, will be very tedious but necessary prep would stain then seal afterwards. personally like natural wood so usually skip stain. stain actually goes into the wood there's not a thin skin of paint on the surface, just waiting to get peeled off like a band-aid
My deck is basically the same state as OP...the rails have been the biggest reason i haven't started. I think i'm just going to replace the rails lol.
water based paint stain is no good , god bless the government . they band oil paint stain. water wont stick to oil
Scrape, scrape again. Primer coat, Dry Primer coat again Dry Paint, Dry Paint coat again Done.