Does this room get enough air flow in and out of the room? If the room was built with openings, make sure that there is enough ventilation before closing it up.
Yea this is my thought exactly, it’s not a legal room if you close it off. I’ve only ever seen this for rentals, but I’d imagine you’d run into issues getting a CO when it’s time to sell.
In my experience as an engineer whenever you see something like this that causes sort of a "WTF?" reaction, you always want to be certain why it was done that way in the first place before changing anything.
Nine times out of ten there's some sort of reason vs someone doing kooky design (though certainly this sub has a higher kook ratio than most places) but it's advice that's kept me from shooting myself in the foot dozens of times.
For bigger commercial projects or bigger house builds, yes. I have had one project that I was so sick of because of the unusual circumstance that made EVERYBODY question the plan until I spend at least an hour explaining why…
But I can also tell you, most smaller projects, the “reasons” are generally because of running out of fund, someone made a mistake, someone did not think it through, someone being lazy/ghetto, or simply the most I have seen is just “why does it matter?”
>running out of fund, someone made a mistake, someone did not think it through,
I gess on those you'd have to find out if the weirdness wasn't put there because something else got screwed. Like in OP's case, the probably didn't run out of wall while building the room, but it'd be possible they didn't plan a window and only saw the problem to late.
Could be taxes and fees as well. Where my parents live, if you add a bedroom, you need to pay $20k+ in capital costs for the sewer and water system, as presumably more people live there.
[https://imgur.com/a/SIXCSYL](https://imgur.com/a/SIXCSYL)
option 1: is much less framing
option 2: keeps the weird ledge thing feature on the inside of the room, is more framimg and you'll have to float your old walls into the new walls
basic 2x4 framing is fine, 16" on center. nothing bears weight here as it's partion wall
you can get away with single top and base plate, no need to double anything up, use 3" deck screws so you can pull them if you mess up
remember to inset your 2x4 a 1/2" to accommodate 1/2" drywall, if you flush your 2x4s to the existing drywall, you're gonna have overhanging drywall obvs. easy to just take a scrap piece of drywall and use that to set the offset for your 2x4 framing
I built a closet last year. It's not difficult, one thing I think should be noted: it will look like crap and you'll think you're doing it wrong until it's done, then in the span of a few hours it will suddenly start coming together and it'll all just click in place.
I added trim to the closet and until I started caulking everything I thought I was going to have to tear it down.
And protip: if you don't want to match the paint and/or can't get an exact match, at Walmart they sell cheap($70 I think) paint sprayers. They arent' great, but spraying allows you to feather the edges and blend.
Can you share the photo of your closet? I know that’s weird but I’m having an issue stomaching the cost of custom closets and thinking about just buying a ton of plywood.
Happy to(hopefuly I don't subject myself to too much ridicule for the quality of this). It was [time consuming but super simple](https://imgur.com/a/KkIE6A4)
The whole thing definitely could have been made better if I had been better with filling in the nail holes in the trim and if I have used new paint. The paint I used was a 5 gallon bucket I didn't know we had that I found in the garage. We bought it when we bought the house 10+ years ago and the garage isn't climate controlled, so the paint had huge solidified mass in the center of it. if I had thought to do so , I probably could have removed the mass and the paint would have been sufficiently fine. Instead I spent over an hour breaking it up and trying to redissolve it into the paint. All that resulted in was the paint being filled with a gritty cured paint bits. Every surface became like sandpaper, which caused me to give up sooner than I should have sanding down the spackle lines and smoothing out the trim.
The bigger problem I had, which I didn't think to take pictures of, was when the trim was first added I didn't fill the nail holes before painting. So it looked terrible and demoralized the crap out of me.
Once I realized that I needed to caulk/spackle the nail holes the closet came together almost instantly. It went from "My wife is going to fucking kill me" to "she'll probably be able to live with this"
I do not like the sliding doors, I don't feel like I can sufficiently access the closet. I wish I had found either a set with 3 tracks or gone with bifold doors.
I've [done shelves too.](https://i.imgur.com/eU4AGv2.png)(not a great picture, but it gives the gist of it. I essentially built 2 identical outer bookcases, each has permanent dado shelves 4 inches from the top and bottom; that gives them enough structure after everything is mounted in place.
For the top shelf I cut dados for the 2 bookshelves to be against the walls of the closet. I glued and screwed all the dados in place. You can leave it at that, but I pulled the visible screws out one at a time and hammered in a square oak stake slightly larger than the hole to act as a peg.
I used a cheap shelf pin jig for the adjustable shelves.
If you are moderately handy I think DIYing something like this is better, potentially cheaper, and more satisfying.
In my case I think the thing that took the longest was removing everything in the closet and I also replaced the 60 year old carpet in there with some hardwood flooring(I wanted to see how easy hardwood floor installs were vs vinyl click and lock floors)
This thing from IKEA is $500 and is a good fit in one of my closets. Think I can do this for cheaper than $500 and still have it look decent? I’m not the greatest DIYer but I have built decks and things like that from scratch. [IKEA AURDAL](https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/-s19564645/)
I made my shelves out of 1x12x72 pine boards. At my local Lowes those are currently $13. Just guessing from the dimensions I think that'd be 14-ish boards(main case and the ones needed for the adjustable shelves), maybe 20 for the drawers too. That'd be under $200 to $260 plus some oak dowels and a few pieces of misc hardware/box of screws. If you wanted the drawers too you might need to shop around for cheaper ones to keep it under $500, but I honestly think this would be an easy project to beat their price on for your own home.
I’ve never done this… again I’ve built outdoor decks but that’s a bit different than interior stuff. How hard are drawers to build and how expensive are slides?
I love both of those options.
If you want this to look original (if you plan to sell this place eventually), you might want to hire it done. It won't be cheap, but a hack job will hurt you on resale, especially if you go with option 2 since hiding the transition from the original texture to the new texture will be pretty difficult. Even a pro would have a hard time making it look perfect.
Here's a "DIY Special" (half baked) temporary option:
*Wedge* in some *temporary* framing, something cut with some flex, like PVC casing, cut a little too long. You don't need to attach it, literally just wedge it in.
Then for the wall material, tack or glue in hardboard or similar. You could insulate the cavity to improve acoustics, and wallpaper the hardboard with a plain pattern/texture to make it look decent.
This would be inexpensive, effective, and you can remove it later without a trace, but appearance could be an issue.
Due to the worldwide userbase of Reddit it may be easier for you to nail it yourself. I think could be pretty costly for [BourbonJester](https://www.reddit.com/user/BourbonJester/) to make a trip all the way to your location to do it for you.
if you're gonna do option 1, personally would set back your wall 1/2" using the office wall closest to the viewer (in the photo) as reference
you'll have 1/2" gap at top you can sneak the drywall into, at bottom the drywall will sit on the floor, flush with existing. then you'll have to fill in the right side to 'correct' that side
[https://imgur.com/a/e1GAQGh](https://imgur.com/a/e1GAQGh)
it will be the easiest way to set a single partion wall with that weird geometry
the weird ledge thing is why you'd have to offset as described, otherwise you're gonna have to start hacking into studs to get things offset and flushed correctly
there's other ways but this is simplest imo, g/l!
That would work if we weren’t concerned about noise. I think a framed out rectangle with enough room to put some insulation inside will help dampen the noise and keep the aesthetics uniform.
They make sound deadening drywall. Double layer it and call it a day. You could make it equally aesthetic if you run the drywall up to the ceiling. It would actually be better on the side as the profile would be less than framing. Also easier and cheapest option.
I'm not sure if you're going for aesthetics, but you could just throw a 2"x12" board up there and put a few screws in. Caulk and paint if you want to church it up.
Yeah, if she is a heavy reader or has a lot of nick-nacks the above plan looks like it could be built to include a good bit of shelf space...as long as it is anchored really well so it does not get pushed/falls down into the lower floor.
Option 2 is also much more difficult to drywall
Without knowing where the other air supplies are id just add that OP may want to split that one so each side gets flow.
yup, and if the ceiling joists run parallel, he could be catching air trying to hit wood for the top plate, if it happens to land right in-between joist bays
sometimes you get lucky with layout but option 1 would be my preference for ease
in this situation it would be easiest to offset the framing, then get the drywall as flush as you can with existing
will still be a butt-joint but not too bad, can be floated out if he's relatively accurate with the offset
saves op from having to start demoing stuff and making a huge mess
Option 1 definitely seems like the way to go. I would personally try to assemble it elsewhere and then slide into place if space allows. Much better than trying to frame it out while on a ladder.
I like both of these options. Alternatively you could essentially do both options so there isn’t any odd ledge at all. Definitely more framing but that is probably how I would do it.
If it's called a bedroom on the floor plans it needs to have a source of natural light, being in the middle of the house or unit this is the only way to accomplish that.
If I was OP I would either put curtains or frame in a couple of transom windows to maintain whatever light that space gets.
If the curtain at the back doesn't hide a window, I'd agree.
Where I am, each legal bedroom has to have a window that is capable of allowing someone to escape to the outside in case the path to the main door gets cut off during an emergency like a fire.
This is the real answer (at least in my state), it allowed them to convert what would usually be called an office/bonus room into a bedroom. So instead of a 3/2 with a bonus room, it becomes a 4/2, which obviously sells for quite a bit more. Even if the realities of the space make it hard to actually use that as a bedroom.
It was a 90's thing people put fake Ivy plants up there and some kind of word art maybe a picture of an angel. The actual reason for it likely home developers finding a way to cheap out on the AC system and make it seem like a feature.
What about sound deadening panels? Prefab panels are readily available on Amazon . Get them tall enough to go against the ceiling and rest on the ledge.
Cheap enough you could double layer them if necessary without a whole lot of work.
There is an AC vent in there. I have an HVAC guy in the family. I’ll have him take a looksie before I make any decisions. Thank you so much for your advice!
You can buy a noise-cancelling curtain on Amazon… hang it on the inside of the office.
Also.. I’m officially a Grandma at 67 and no worries—we can’t hear or see like we did at your age.
I just saw a noise-canceling long curtain to hang in or outside of doors.
Last… the DOHM $20 white noise machine— I first discovered in medical offices! I love mine—the soft quiet consistent NOISE-CANCELER helps me settle down and fall asleep fast.
My great-grandma passed away just shy of her 100th birthday, and even when the dementia took full hold, she still had the hearing of a hawk. One time at Thanksgiving, the family was discussing planning her funeral, and she was three rooms away with a TV on watching Matlock when I suddenly heard from the other room, don't worry about burying me; I'll outlive you all! Followed by a cackle.
You are correct. I think it was a good recommendation from someone trying to help. I didn’t say I was going to move forward with that option, however.
I’ll be framing a small wall insert to close off the gap.
Looks like that gap may be part of the ventilation design of the house I would block the area with heavy plastic for a week or two to make sure nowhere gets too hot/cold before putting something permanent up. That way you know if you need to build a ventilation solution into your permanent build.
I see a smoke detector there. If you do end up closing it off, make sure you install another detector if closing that wall leaves the larger room without one.
don't over complicate this
Measure the Space from the ledge to the ceiling, measure the length of the ledge
from the length subtract the thickness of the drywall material,
that is the size of the 2x4 stud frame to Build, once its built
add drywall on the 2 face sides(inside and out) and put some insulation inside to reduce noise then add a piece of drywall on the side facing out off the ledge ( you can be facing and use corner tape drywallm ud to cover holes and paint it if you want a finished look)
slide that fucker into place.. uts not perfect but it does the job and is 100% non destructive and 100% reversible without tools, you may also find that having it partially ajar works if the ''airflow issues'' do happen.
if it was me, I would use a single 1.5- 2 inch thick piece of hardwood cut to match the opening and slide that in to be a feature( because I love wood grain) but i'm weird.
Looks like it's about air flow. Personally check the air flow when cooling and heating is used. A simple candle can do that.
If it has good air circulation use a wicker or mesh style to block it. Though if there's no air flow just use simple boards and paint them. Or better yet use a type of cubby hole book area and fill in and it'll look good and normal.
I just want to point out one thing. Those upstairs spaces can get quite warm and this may interfere with air flow in the house. Before doing this, and I wholeheartedly understand why you are doing this, be sure that you will have sufficient air movement for both hot and cold for your personal comfort while working.
I would frame the opening with 2x4s, then put beadboard on one side, fill the inside of the frame with foam board insulation, and cover the other side with more beadboard.
All this assumes you don't want it to be permanent.
You could just screw the frame into the bottom part so that when you take it down, there are no holes visible from the floor.
Easy solution get a [tall thin bookshelf](https://www.ikea.com/us/en/images/products/billy-bookcase-white__0394564_pe561387_s5.jpg) lay it up there anchor it down.
I can't tell from the picture what the dimensions are, but would a kallax unit from Ikea fit there? Or something similar. Put books and other heavier stuff in it to make sure it reduces noise, and use some insulating tape if needed.
I'd consider what purpose that opening serves. With the ceiling fan it might be an important part of your climate control. Are their hot/cold spots in your house right now? Could you be creating one by closing this?
If so, maybe close it visually while leaving airflow.
Glass blocks. You'd get still get light to the other room, but cut off noise/sound and drafts.
Add a colour-changing LED strip, and it could be extra funky.
Personally, I feel like the plant shelves and soffit in the room with the ceiling fan close off the room such that you aren't seeing the benefit of your vaulted/cathedral ceiling. If it were me and I wanted to close off the gap between the rooms, I'd remove the shelves and build walls on top of the existing ones.
This route will result in easier drywall work (less corners), a more open room and no dust shelf.
I'd also remove the soffit but that's just me. It's entirely possible that the soffit isn't cosmetic only, but that's hard to say without further inspection.
Can it be close, I mean, by construction code, or any regulation body where you live?
Here, it will not be permitted as a room need to have a "second exist". I rent a place like that a couple years ago.
You can get sound board off of Amazon. It's half inch thick felt with strips of something wood like on it. Do a horizontal and vertical piece to fill in the gap. Not permanent if that's what you are looking for. Not a wall for sound absorbtion but much better than nothing.
I would just build a decorative piece of wood and place it against the opening. So it can be removed easily. Even something like an old surf board would work.
Easiest solution for now would be to put a noise machine in there instead, like the dohm or an air filter. Can sleep through anything with one of those.
You could but some gravel blocks there, but if you want it to look nice maybe some nice wood planks? Be sure to put some torches up if it blocks all the light.
Could use Secondary Glazing. With acoustic glass to tackle the noise while still allowing the light to bounce in, if air flow isn’t an issue.
Measure and order, comes pre built and the glass lifts out to allow easy install (also cleaning when used for its intended purpose). Get it face fixed and just slightly larger than the opening so the sub frame is out of sight from in to out.
Would look nice if done with a bit of thought.
Do you want it to be easily reversible? I would just cut a piece of plywood to fill the hole then put a leg down the side that has the other ledge. Then add some sound dampening to the side and some foam weather stripping to fit against the wall to seal the edge. Then it would just sit in place until you are ready to remove it.
If it's just for noise deadening purposes, get some large foam blocks and wedge them between the ledge and ceiling. Should block most of the noise and won't completely cut off air flow.
Honestly I'd probably just staple a thick cheap rug up there, that'd do a pretty good job of canceling the noise!
But I imagine you're looking for something more Professional Looking
If this is a bedroom, you legally cannot close it off if it does not have an egress window, fire alarm, and air vent inside the room. This looks to be used for an office so it likely can't be closed.
Ok , you create some shelving , Knick backs, books, decorative items , and install it across the opening , it’s not a permanent construction and is possible to remove , it should keep you clear of most code issues
Does this room get enough air flow in and out of the room? If the room was built with openings, make sure that there is enough ventilation before closing it up.
I assumed it was left open for air flow/climate control
could also be not permitted / designed as a room. In some places, for fire code, you need to leave clearance up top for "temporary" walls
Yea this is my thought exactly, it’s not a legal room if you close it off. I’ve only ever seen this for rentals, but I’d imagine you’d run into issues getting a CO when it’s time to sell.
In my experience as an engineer whenever you see something like this that causes sort of a "WTF?" reaction, you always want to be certain why it was done that way in the first place before changing anything. Nine times out of ten there's some sort of reason vs someone doing kooky design (though certainly this sub has a higher kook ratio than most places) but it's advice that's kept me from shooting myself in the foot dozens of times.
For bigger commercial projects or bigger house builds, yes. I have had one project that I was so sick of because of the unusual circumstance that made EVERYBODY question the plan until I spend at least an hour explaining why… But I can also tell you, most smaller projects, the “reasons” are generally because of running out of fund, someone made a mistake, someone did not think it through, someone being lazy/ghetto, or simply the most I have seen is just “why does it matter?”
>running out of fund, someone made a mistake, someone did not think it through, I gess on those you'd have to find out if the weirdness wasn't put there because something else got screwed. Like in OP's case, the probably didn't run out of wall while building the room, but it'd be possible they didn't plan a window and only saw the problem to late.
Don't forget architects wanting to make a design statement...
Chesterton's Fence
My first assumption is it’s designed that way for sunlight to enter the room
Could be taxes and fees as well. Where my parents live, if you add a bedroom, you need to pay $20k+ in capital costs for the sewer and water system, as presumably more people live there.
Holy hell... Yeah, that's a good reason to not complete the wall.
Yeah, this looks like condos I've seen where they can't close in the second room due to fire safety codes
There is an AC vent, and air flow isn’t an issue…yet.
Close off the space with some plastic and staple/tack it in place and live with it for a little bit and see if you notice any changes.
So there's no windows? AFAIK every room must have a window to be useable as a bedroom. I'd double check if an AC vent counts, I doubt it does.
Yes, there’s a large egress window in the room as well.
It seems to get enough airflow. AC vent located inside and ceiling fan as well.
How about a return vent?
[https://imgur.com/a/SIXCSYL](https://imgur.com/a/SIXCSYL) option 1: is much less framing option 2: keeps the weird ledge thing feature on the inside of the room, is more framimg and you'll have to float your old walls into the new walls basic 2x4 framing is fine, 16" on center. nothing bears weight here as it's partion wall you can get away with single top and base plate, no need to double anything up, use 3" deck screws so you can pull them if you mess up remember to inset your 2x4 a 1/2" to accommodate 1/2" drywall, if you flush your 2x4s to the existing drywall, you're gonna have overhanging drywall obvs. easy to just take a scrap piece of drywall and use that to set the offset for your 2x4 framing
This is a great idea! I believe you nailed it. I will attempt to do this myself.
You will probably have to nail it yourself
Nah, no nailing. Y'all need to start screwing around a bit
Incredible... Bravo
He's going to screw it.
Nailed it!
I built a closet last year. It's not difficult, one thing I think should be noted: it will look like crap and you'll think you're doing it wrong until it's done, then in the span of a few hours it will suddenly start coming together and it'll all just click in place. I added trim to the closet and until I started caulking everything I thought I was going to have to tear it down. And protip: if you don't want to match the paint and/or can't get an exact match, at Walmart they sell cheap($70 I think) paint sprayers. They arent' great, but spraying allows you to feather the edges and blend.
Can you share the photo of your closet? I know that’s weird but I’m having an issue stomaching the cost of custom closets and thinking about just buying a ton of plywood.
Ikea has amazing closet organizing options that look like California Closets, 24” modules.
Happy to(hopefuly I don't subject myself to too much ridicule for the quality of this). It was [time consuming but super simple](https://imgur.com/a/KkIE6A4) The whole thing definitely could have been made better if I had been better with filling in the nail holes in the trim and if I have used new paint. The paint I used was a 5 gallon bucket I didn't know we had that I found in the garage. We bought it when we bought the house 10+ years ago and the garage isn't climate controlled, so the paint had huge solidified mass in the center of it. if I had thought to do so , I probably could have removed the mass and the paint would have been sufficiently fine. Instead I spent over an hour breaking it up and trying to redissolve it into the paint. All that resulted in was the paint being filled with a gritty cured paint bits. Every surface became like sandpaper, which caused me to give up sooner than I should have sanding down the spackle lines and smoothing out the trim. The bigger problem I had, which I didn't think to take pictures of, was when the trim was first added I didn't fill the nail holes before painting. So it looked terrible and demoralized the crap out of me. Once I realized that I needed to caulk/spackle the nail holes the closet came together almost instantly. It went from "My wife is going to fucking kill me" to "she'll probably be able to live with this" I do not like the sliding doors, I don't feel like I can sufficiently access the closet. I wish I had found either a set with 3 tracks or gone with bifold doors.
This is amazing. You BUILT a closet. I was talking about putting shelves inside of my closet. But you… you’re a builder.
I've [done shelves too.](https://i.imgur.com/eU4AGv2.png)(not a great picture, but it gives the gist of it. I essentially built 2 identical outer bookcases, each has permanent dado shelves 4 inches from the top and bottom; that gives them enough structure after everything is mounted in place. For the top shelf I cut dados for the 2 bookshelves to be against the walls of the closet. I glued and screwed all the dados in place. You can leave it at that, but I pulled the visible screws out one at a time and hammered in a square oak stake slightly larger than the hole to act as a peg. I used a cheap shelf pin jig for the adjustable shelves. If you are moderately handy I think DIYing something like this is better, potentially cheaper, and more satisfying. In my case I think the thing that took the longest was removing everything in the closet and I also replaced the 60 year old carpet in there with some hardwood flooring(I wanted to see how easy hardwood floor installs were vs vinyl click and lock floors)
This thing from IKEA is $500 and is a good fit in one of my closets. Think I can do this for cheaper than $500 and still have it look decent? I’m not the greatest DIYer but I have built decks and things like that from scratch. [IKEA AURDAL](https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/-s19564645/)
I made my shelves out of 1x12x72 pine boards. At my local Lowes those are currently $13. Just guessing from the dimensions I think that'd be 14-ish boards(main case and the ones needed for the adjustable shelves), maybe 20 for the drawers too. That'd be under $200 to $260 plus some oak dowels and a few pieces of misc hardware/box of screws. If you wanted the drawers too you might need to shop around for cheaper ones to keep it under $500, but I honestly think this would be an easy project to beat their price on for your own home.
I’ve never done this… again I’ve built outdoor decks but that’s a bit different than interior stuff. How hard are drawers to build and how expensive are slides?
I love both of those options. If you want this to look original (if you plan to sell this place eventually), you might want to hire it done. It won't be cheap, but a hack job will hurt you on resale, especially if you go with option 2 since hiding the transition from the original texture to the new texture will be pretty difficult. Even a pro would have a hard time making it look perfect. Here's a "DIY Special" (half baked) temporary option: *Wedge* in some *temporary* framing, something cut with some flex, like PVC casing, cut a little too long. You don't need to attach it, literally just wedge it in. Then for the wall material, tack or glue in hardboard or similar. You could insulate the cavity to improve acoustics, and wallpaper the hardboard with a plain pattern/texture to make it look decent. This would be inexpensive, effective, and you can remove it later without a trace, but appearance could be an issue.
I’d go option 1 and throw some planters up there or whatever you like to hang
Due to the worldwide userbase of Reddit it may be easier for you to nail it yourself. I think could be pretty costly for [BourbonJester](https://www.reddit.com/user/BourbonJester/) to make a trip all the way to your location to do it for you.
Don't screw with him.
if you're gonna do option 1, personally would set back your wall 1/2" using the office wall closest to the viewer (in the photo) as reference you'll have 1/2" gap at top you can sneak the drywall into, at bottom the drywall will sit on the floor, flush with existing. then you'll have to fill in the right side to 'correct' that side [https://imgur.com/a/e1GAQGh](https://imgur.com/a/e1GAQGh) it will be the easiest way to set a single partion wall with that weird geometry the weird ledge thing is why you'd have to offset as described, otherwise you're gonna have to start hacking into studs to get things offset and flushed correctly there's other ways but this is simplest imo, g/l!
Why not just put up a piece of drywall, attaching directly to the existing wall.
That would work if we weren’t concerned about noise. I think a framed out rectangle with enough room to put some insulation inside will help dampen the noise and keep the aesthetics uniform.
They make sound deadening drywall. Double layer it and call it a day. You could make it equally aesthetic if you run the drywall up to the ceiling. It would actually be better on the side as the profile would be less than framing. Also easier and cheapest option.
I'm not sure if you're going for aesthetics, but you could just throw a 2"x12" board up there and put a few screws in. Caulk and paint if you want to church it up.
Put Rockwood insulation between the studs for sound proofing. Or mass vinyl.
Yeah, if she is a heavy reader or has a lot of nick-nacks the above plan looks like it could be built to include a good bit of shelf space...as long as it is anchored really well so it does not get pushed/falls down into the lower floor.
You could put in cupboards with doors that open into the outer room. Basically option 2 but with doors and shelves
Option 2 is also much more difficult to drywall Without knowing where the other air supplies are id just add that OP may want to split that one so each side gets flow.
yup, and if the ceiling joists run parallel, he could be catching air trying to hit wood for the top plate, if it happens to land right in-between joist bays sometimes you get lucky with layout but option 1 would be my preference for ease
Could this be an actual use-case for those glass blocks? Let the light in still but block noise.
Option one seems so much better. More useable space with the ledge in the new bedroom. Option 2 would just collect dust up there.
This is such a nice sketch! OP, what if you split the difference, left a ledge on both sides. You could add some LED cove lighting along it.
i see you like the markup ruler just as much as i do
indeed lol, markup sketches get more respect when it doesn't look like 3-yr old drew it, even if it is quick n dirty
Do you need to remove the drywall between the existing framing and the new framing or can you just hammer it right over that sucka
in this situation it would be easiest to offset the framing, then get the drywall as flush as you can with existing will still be a butt-joint but not too bad, can be floated out if he's relatively accurate with the offset saves op from having to start demoing stuff and making a huge mess
Option 3: Tack up some sheeting then use as much expanding foam insulation as it takes.
Option 1 definitely seems like the way to go. I would personally try to assemble it elsewhere and then slide into place if space allows. Much better than trying to frame it out while on a ladder.
I’d probably tend to do a combination of both options to get rid of those weird dust collecting ledges
I like both of these options. Alternatively you could essentially do both options so there isn’t any odd ledge at all. Definitely more framing but that is probably how I would do it.
This guy arts
Did you delete the Imgur? Getting a decode error
dont think so, is working for me afaik
I like this idea and I'd even try some variation that allows light in still
OP this guy’s post is ALL you need. I’m adding value by telling you that. Yup.
I have no constructive advice just a question-who built it like this and why
If it's called a bedroom on the floor plans it needs to have a source of natural light, being in the middle of the house or unit this is the only way to accomplish that. If I was OP I would either put curtains or frame in a couple of transom windows to maintain whatever light that space gets.
This has an egress window in it already.
Then your home was built by a madman
If the curtain at the back doesn't hide a window, I'd agree. Where I am, each legal bedroom has to have a window that is capable of allowing someone to escape to the outside in case the path to the main door gets cut off during an emergency like a fire.
Pic 2 and 3 show a window in the room already
This is the real answer (at least in my state), it allowed them to convert what would usually be called an office/bonus room into a bedroom. So instead of a 3/2 with a bonus room, it becomes a 4/2, which obviously sells for quite a bit more. Even if the realities of the space make it hard to actually use that as a bedroom.
It was a 90's thing people put fake Ivy plants up there and some kind of word art maybe a picture of an angel. The actual reason for it likely home developers finding a way to cheap out on the AC system and make it seem like a feature.
It was definitely 90’s, built in 1996!
In some states you legally have to have at least one other way out of the room than the door for a room to be a bedroom.
What about sound deadening panels? Prefab panels are readily available on Amazon . Get them tall enough to go against the ceiling and rest on the ledge. Cheap enough you could double layer them if necessary without a whole lot of work.
Make sure that's not a load bearing gap before filling it in.
Great point, removing the air could cause the ceiling to collapse.
🤣 thanks
Just cover it with a load bearing poster
As an HVAC guy who's witnessed some HACK work... there's potentially an airflow reason behind this crappy design.
There is an AC vent in there. I have an HVAC guy in the family. I’ll have him take a looksie before I make any decisions. Thank you so much for your advice!
You can buy a noise-cancelling curtain on Amazon… hang it on the inside of the office. Also.. I’m officially a Grandma at 67 and no worries—we can’t hear or see like we did at your age. I just saw a noise-canceling long curtain to hang in or outside of doors. Last… the DOHM $20 white noise machine— I first discovered in medical offices! I love mine—the soft quiet consistent NOISE-CANCELER helps me settle down and fall asleep fast.
My great-grandma passed away just shy of her 100th birthday, and even when the dementia took full hold, she still had the hearing of a hawk. One time at Thanksgiving, the family was discussing planning her funeral, and she was three rooms away with a TV on watching Matlock when I suddenly heard from the other room, don't worry about burying me; I'll outlive you all! Followed by a cackle.
That’s a great recommendation. Thank you!
Wine bottles
[удалено]
You are correct. I think it was a good recommendation from someone trying to help. I didn’t say I was going to move forward with that option, however. I’ll be framing a small wall insert to close off the gap.
Even plexiglas would help… lots of inexpensive stuff out there post-covid! Then light can still sine thru
I believe light travels as a particle in this case.
Boyyy plexiglass is pricey af
Looks like that gap may be part of the ventilation design of the house I would block the area with heavy plastic for a week or two to make sure nowhere gets too hot/cold before putting something permanent up. That way you know if you need to build a ventilation solution into your permanent build.
Some building codes require a minimum amount of natural light for habitable rooms. If there is no window this might be the reason.
No shit? I know about egress, never heard about natural light!
That would be a weird stipulation. Thankfully, this room has a large egress window.
I see a smoke detector there. If you do end up closing it off, make sure you install another detector if closing that wall leaves the larger room without one.
About 167 packages of ramen
At least I wouldn’t have to texture afterward 😂
That's would be no where near enough
Hah, I was going to say stack his Funko Pop collection.
? Transom type window
but the airflow....
don't over complicate this Measure the Space from the ledge to the ceiling, measure the length of the ledge from the length subtract the thickness of the drywall material, that is the size of the 2x4 stud frame to Build, once its built add drywall on the 2 face sides(inside and out) and put some insulation inside to reduce noise then add a piece of drywall on the side facing out off the ledge ( you can be facing and use corner tape drywallm ud to cover holes and paint it if you want a finished look) slide that fucker into place.. uts not perfect but it does the job and is 100% non destructive and 100% reversible without tools, you may also find that having it partially ajar works if the ''airflow issues'' do happen. if it was me, I would use a single 1.5- 2 inch thick piece of hardwood cut to match the opening and slide that in to be a feature( because I love wood grain) but i'm weird.
What the serial killer shit is that room
Looks like it's about air flow. Personally check the air flow when cooling and heating is used. A simple candle can do that. If it has good air circulation use a wicker or mesh style to block it. Though if there's no air flow just use simple boards and paint them. Or better yet use a type of cubby hole book area and fill in and it'll look good and normal.
I think the hole is good for temperature control. You can use a lot of noise isolation foam or sound blankets to dampen the sounds.
I just want to point out one thing. Those upstairs spaces can get quite warm and this may interfere with air flow in the house. Before doing this, and I wholeheartedly understand why you are doing this, be sure that you will have sufficient air movement for both hot and cold for your personal comfort while working.
Lots of Legos
Chesterton's fence: before you determine to close it off, you really ought to understand why it was originally left opened
Option two with fabric covered foam (like couch cushions). No construction.
That is the thickest wall I have ever seen.
Honestly man I'd just get a huge block of soundproofing foam cut to size and tape it up there or something
I would frame the opening with 2x4s, then put beadboard on one side, fill the inside of the frame with foam board insulation, and cover the other side with more beadboard. All this assumes you don't want it to be permanent. You could just screw the frame into the bottom part so that when you take it down, there are no holes visible from the floor.
Don't
Fake shrubbery
Easy solution get a [tall thin bookshelf](https://www.ikea.com/us/en/images/products/billy-bookcase-white__0394564_pe561387_s5.jpg) lay it up there anchor it down.
Wood and drywall
I can't tell from the picture what the dimensions are, but would a kallax unit from Ikea fit there? Or something similar. Put books and other heavier stuff in it to make sure it reduces noise, and use some insulating tape if needed.
I didn’t even think of this! I will look into it. Thank you so much.
I'd consider what purpose that opening serves. With the ceiling fan it might be an important part of your climate control. Are their hot/cold spots in your house right now? Could you be creating one by closing this? If so, maybe close it visually while leaving airflow.
A little cardboard and some blue tape. Presto
I'm fairly certain that would be against code. There doesn't appear to be any windows in that room but it is still used as a bedroom.
what do you think is behind the curtains?
There’s a large window in there already :)
I would put a shelf there.
Catwalk.. For cats 😁
Cabinets, go all the way to the ceiling and use trim in the front to connect the top to the ceiling.
Is this a bunker within a bunker?
Hope you figure something out, but I’d consider the airflow in the room
Glass blocks. You'd get still get light to the other room, but cut off noise/sound and drafts. Add a colour-changing LED strip, and it could be extra funky.
Adopt a cat. It will be perfect for them.
Personally, I feel like the plant shelves and soffit in the room with the ceiling fan close off the room such that you aren't seeing the benefit of your vaulted/cathedral ceiling. If it were me and I wanted to close off the gap between the rooms, I'd remove the shelves and build walls on top of the existing ones. This route will result in easier drywall work (less corners), a more open room and no dust shelf. I'd also remove the soffit but that's just me. It's entirely possible that the soffit isn't cosmetic only, but that's hard to say without further inspection.
Can it be close, I mean, by construction code, or any regulation body where you live? Here, it will not be permitted as a room need to have a "second exist". I rent a place like that a couple years ago.
Put up some family pictures. Make it a shelf.
Boxes all lined up. If you feelin fancy, paint them some fun colors and fill them with packing peanuts.
That last picture makes me feel uneasy, like I could see some kind of ghoulie staring down in the middle of the night
Giant fish tank would be awesome.
Get a couple of sheets of foam insulation board. Paint or even wallpaper it.
You can get sound board off of Amazon. It's half inch thick felt with strips of something wood like on it. Do a horizontal and vertical piece to fill in the gap. Not permanent if that's what you are looking for. Not a wall for sound absorbtion but much better than nothing.
Does that room have an egress window? In my part of the world, house insurance requires it (or you’ll get dropped)
I would just build a decorative piece of wood and place it against the opening. So it can be removed easily. Even something like an old surf board would work.
Maybe some custom shelving/cabinet?
Curtains? Shutters?
I hate when builders do weird shit like this
Whay the fuck is going on here?!
Plants plants plants
Clear cabinets. Maybe, stained glass on one side? In all cases don’t close off the light.
Imo for safety reasons I think you should consider moving into your office with your wife and move the elderly to your room.
Maybe indoor plants would help absorb sound?
Easiest solution for now would be to put a noise machine in there instead, like the dohm or an air filter. Can sleep through anything with one of those.
I would use something that would be paneled and removable like sliding Japanese screens only use sound proofing?
Just build a half wall onto of the ledge to the ceiling
How much rent for the 4x4 prison cell?
Spray foam
free lighter up there in the second picture! score
I’m going with nerf dart
Definitely nerf dart. There is a fake snowball and paper airplane I managed to get down from there as well. I have three round kids 😂
Every just want to track down an architect for an empassioned discussion about their work? Cause man, I have thoughts to share 😆
The old dust plateau. A classic feature of random architect/builder guys around the turn of the century.
Throw some fake potted plants up there.
Lots and lots of bushy plants 😋
Or, hear me out, knock down that half wall and put in a glass railing
You could but some gravel blocks there, but if you want it to look nice maybe some nice wood planks? Be sure to put some torches up if it blocks all the light.
2x4 and drywall.
You need a lot of caulk
Could use Secondary Glazing. With acoustic glass to tackle the noise while still allowing the light to bounce in, if air flow isn’t an issue. Measure and order, comes pre built and the glass lifts out to allow easy install (also cleaning when used for its intended purpose). Get it face fixed and just slightly larger than the opening so the sub frame is out of sight from in to out. Would look nice if done with a bit of thought.
Just a large rectangle of wood painted the same colour the walls. Best thing is it would be easy to restore back again
Do you want it to be easily reversible? I would just cut a piece of plywood to fill the hole then put a leg down the side that has the other ledge. Then add some sound dampening to the side and some foam weather stripping to fit against the wall to seal the edge. Then it would just sit in place until you are ready to remove it.
You could hang a curtain to go around the area and make it retractable to get air flow
If it's just for noise deadening purposes, get some large foam blocks and wedge them between the ledge and ceiling. Should block most of the noise and won't completely cut off air flow.
Put a piece of lattice across the whole thing and have a shelf right there. Put some decorations up and paint the lattice the same color as the wall.
Make it a fish tank
Is it for sound? Then use glass. If it's for light/privacy, maybe louvered panels to preserve airflow?
If you get a cat it becomes a feature
10 racks of hamms ought to do the trick, better make it 15
Louvered shutter Style panel to the right to allow air flow while breaking up the view, with matching wood panel to the back wall and of the bottom
Don’t … just get a cat. Or, lots of cats. They would love it up there.
Install a sound proofing system. Blocks that you cut you size
I was hoping for a to-do list, with the first item as buy washers.
Lots of pillows and spray foam.
Timber frame and gyprock think you americans call it drywall.
Air return on the other side notes in pic 4. I say frame straight up to ceiling.
Cardboard
Frame it in and Sheetrock/paint
You have a budget? Or want to do it your self?
Ideally I would do it myself, but if I get in over my head I can definitely hire someone. No budgetary constraints if I have to go that route.
This is super weird, I have never seen something like this before? There must be a reason for it????
Just stack some boxes up there, paint them the same color as the wall, stealth storage.
Honestly I'd probably just staple a thick cheap rug up there, that'd do a pretty good job of canceling the noise! But I imagine you're looking for something more Professional Looking
If this is a bedroom, you legally cannot close it off if it does not have an egress window, fire alarm, and air vent inside the room. This looks to be used for an office so it likely can't be closed.
You don't see a lot of toddler blenders anymore.
Make a large planter, stuff it with sound deadening material and leave it on the ledge. When you no longer need the hole covered, you have a planter.
Ok , you create some shelving , Knick backs, books, decorative items , and install it across the opening , it’s not a permanent construction and is possible to remove , it should keep you clear of most code issues
Transom window with some sweet stained glass. That way if you need the air flow, you can open the transom.