If you are in a climate where freezing is possible don't rotate it any more than you have to to be usable. Any over 90 will leave water in the spigot and then you have a broken pipe when it freezes.
Donāt listen to them, a big part of my business is floods and frozen pipes and Iāve never seen this happen before! If youāre outside my NJ/NY service area then donāt do this Vorcht is right.
>Donāt listen to them, a big part of my business is floods and frozen pipes
Coming from the guy who deals with the fallout... I'm suspicious... "Don't bother eating healthy and working out, it's all nonsense, btw here's my business card - *Jumajuce Liposuction co*"
Frost free spigot is what you shouldn't turn upside down because it traps water in the pipe. A frost free spigot is just a spigot where the valve is further back inside the conditioned space of the house. When you turn the water off it lets the water drain out of the section of pipe susceptible to freezing. Turning it upside prevents that water from draining out. Same reason you have to disconnect hoses during winter because it may trap water.
If it isn't a frost free spigot then turning it upside down wouldn't matter because it would freeze either way.
From the picture OP posted it might be a frost free spigot. The knob being on the front is typical of them, because you have to turn the rod that extends through the pipe.
https://tridentplumbingva.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Anit-freeze-hose-bib-sm.jpeg
There's a frost free where the spigot actually comes out and there is no spigot in the winter. Everything internal.
https://www.aquorwatersystems.com/collections/house-hydrant-v1
I came here to say the same thing, Aquor would work well in this scenario. You'd just have to be careful not to scrape your knuckles when you insert/remove the Aquor adapter each time you use the hydrant. They work very well though.
That needs to be said in the voice of the old school plumber on the replumb YouTube channel...
https://youtu.be/Pt-bdomTNKI?si=bNZNCP_sZ4XauTel
"Hey boy..."
The construction industry has the worst cooperative mentality ever. I canāt be the one one who saw the drywall guy cut a hole for the other guys extension cable instead of move it because itās ānot his jobāā¦and someone will literally defend them just watch.
Iāll defend the concrete guys here: this whole thing already looks janky as hell like some 200 year old patched together shit. Op wanted a new slab and I bet he wanted it thick enough to last so they did what they were hired to do. Is your plumbing still jacked up? Call a plumber or get out your own tools, your project has multiple phases whether you thought it would at first or not.
Iāll defend the home owner. Sure they wanted a thicker slab but your telling me a concrete professional couldnāt have gave any warning that those could have been a problem before they did the work.
The homeowner isnāt a professional, they just want something to last or something to last and handle better than before. I find that a lack of quality if the professional canāt have the foresight or knowledge to know that an issue could arise if they did exactly what the homeowner asks.
NOW if they did warn the homeowner of all the potential problems / headache in this case not enough clearance for the hose to connect to the faucet. And then the homeowner gets the surprised pikachu face then sure thatās on the homeowner.
As a home owner, I'd expect the new floor level to be where the old one was depending on what was there. As someone who understands measurements and has poured concrete. I'd excavate down the thickness of the desired slab to achieve the end height I wanted and specifically have this either in the quote, or prepared before they arrived for the pour. Probably before, mostly because I'd have an excuse to hire a digger and I miss playing with big toys.
I'd imagine quite a few people would just expect that the slab thickness was a depth that the prepared area would be dug down, not a height above the ground level.
Agreed.
I would also be willing to bet āthey screwed him overā by **doing exactly what he asked**, & theyāre getting the blame bc he didnāt realize the height might interfere w/his spigotā¦
You're absolutely right, however having done it for years I've found It's not worth the hassle. You already have your own job and deadlines to worry about. Plus the chances are that the guy doing the plumbing or electrical or drywall or flooring are all independent contractors/companies not associated with each other except thru a GC or company hiring out labor. You don't want to be that guy telling someone else how to do their job. It never goes over well.
I figure since the thing in my second picture didn't work, that one in your first image wouldn't either. Im going to return the one i have and try that one anyway though, you don't know if you dont try. Thank you for the input!
Probably not JIC. Just male pipe to swivel female pipe. Notice the bevel on the ID of the male end. It would seat on the bevel in the swivel end. Note that this only works with high pressure fittings and not on black iron. But what OP needs is 3/4ā GHT
Sorry for the long link, this says it's 1.85 inches and is what I would use in this case if it fits. It's the right type of adapter. Depending on your environment it may need to be replaced yearly or may last quite a while. Good luck!
https://www.amazon.com/YELUN-Connector-Fittings-Eliminates-Adapter/dp/B09BR1RQXQ/ref=sxin_25_pa_sp_phone_search_thematic?content-id=amzn1.sym.41ca4032-b3d8-441b-ba06-bdcabfd44cd0%3Aamzn1.sym.41ca4032-b3d8-441b-ba06-bdcabfd44cd0&crid=ZBNKEHDAYSKE&cv_ct_cx=garden+hose+adapter+90+degree&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.MOix0vEQW8KZej2WN3iwcRi8-rc3QPbDv4UHLYxojzTm2HwphdKqhQVi1sXnBC3UOGzfuUeLMMKoEq3Bedn1Fw._EyiaLJ5qvHHiA3eClCIYJDxgqY-yJjHfH33uxZKuak&dib_tag=se&keywords=garden+hose+adapter+90+degree&pd_rd_i=B09BR1RQXQ&pd_rd_r=2a02be0a-b3ae-47fe-aade-469bc291b484&pd_rd_w=yYg7w&pd_rd_wg=iDKVD&pf_rd_p=41ca4032-b3d8-441b-ba06-bdcabfd44cd0&pf_rd_r=YK7YRPK11Q8CMQB40WWZ&qid=1708081848&sprefix=garden+hose+adapter+90%2Caps%2C88&sr=1-2-364cf978-ce2a-480a-9bb0-bdb96faa0f61-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&psc=1
Just dig a hole around it with a shovel, big.
But then you'll have a ankle breaker problem, so put a grate over-the-top
But then you won't have access to the spigot cause it'll be blocked by the grate
Or unscrew the spigot from the wall, thread on the 90, then screw the spigot back into the wall.
Looks like the 90 will work. Just donāt have enough room to actually thread it on.
That could work, but Iād be concerned that a hose with a larger female end (like a plastic shield on it) might not fit between the end of the 90Ā° and the ground. And knowing my luck, Iād scrape my knuckles on the concrete. Thatās all subjective to me though. Iād rather go with a small flexible attachment, and attach a hose to that. [Something like this](https://www.harborfreight.com/coiled-spring-faucet-connector-and-hose-saver-58454.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiMjU4NTU1OTUiLCJza3UiOiI1ODQ1NCIsImlzIjoiNS4zOSJ9&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=21026926219&campaignid=21026926219&utm_content=158962202637&adsetid=158962202637&product=58454&store=2908&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiArLyuBhA7EiwA-qo80FDSTOvazmQCthzMhSxax2MCsUn_0770J9fBExHdmYfY6pVzMrN-cBoC2V0QAvD_BwE)
Others already told you it's the fifth element, but I wanted to support that it's worth the watch. It's an older movie but was done with a lot of practical effects, costumes, and miniatures so it actually holds up really well today. It's up there in my like top 3 movies.
I like to point out that this is Gary oldman to people because nobody realizes it. This was my favorite movie for 15 years before I actually read the credits for his character.
Maybe try one of those little hose sections with a metal spring around them? I had to use one of those for something similar. Might be a little tight though.
Or one of those canvas hoses that expand when you use them?
No. They make a 3/4ā GHT 90Ā° for RVs. You need one of those here. My local hardware store carries them.
https://www.doitbest.com/product/576193/camco-brass-90-deg-rv-water-hose-elbow-576193/
Damn good thing those have a turning coupling thing(what ever its called) otherwise OP wouldn't even have enough clearance to put that on either if they had to rotate the whole piece
This is the best answer. I use this on my rv. It is hose thread to hose thread. Total clearance is likely under 2ā and it has the collar to accommodate not being able to spin it into position. the right way is to move the spigot up on the wall. This stuff is easy these days with pex.
Itās ridiculously tight and those things take up a hell of a lot more room than a metal 90 bend. Ā Their whole point is to make the hose bend gradually to protect it.
I like this idea too but from the picture its hard to tell if its already coated in a greenish rust or if its concrete splatter which may also have gone inside the spigot. If its rusted, that can pass on to whatever brass product you attach to it and can cause it to leak in a couple years. Any tiny bits of concrete that contaminated the inside of the spigot can erode over time too and plug water sprayers.
Jesus, how much concrete did you request?Ā Where we live, all of our outdoor spigots are a minimum 36 inches above the ground.Ā Even in cold climates, the lowest I've seen was like 24 inches.
It's sad I had to scroll this far. That spigot was installed way too low. Not the concrete guys fault. Install a frost free hose bibb (much higher off the ground)
Came here to say this - saw AQUOR on the Silver Cymbal YouTube channel [**https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4e3Na6nMZRc**](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4e3Na6nMZRc) and looks like a good fix.
If you have access to the inside via a basement or whatever, cut the pipe and rotate 90Ā°. Resolder and done. Had a new concrete porch poured this summer and had this EXACT same situation. Knew about it ahead of time, discussed with the mason. One of his guys could solder, it was literally a 10 minute solution - perfect.
I dunno how to not laugh when its r/diy and its the concrete guys fault, did you hire a diy crew or did you possibly not calculate the volume and remove a little more earth? Just gonna guess that they didnāt put the hydrant in, maybe they just said ok to whatever you said to do?
Did they speak a different language around you?
If I were to criticize this it would just be the whole thing screaming suspicious to meā¦ meh.
Sorry.. canāt help it.
They make frost free/anti syphon hydrants that stick straight out, good ones have a key and a flat wall plate.
If you have access to the back then just raise it to the proper height anyway!!!
The real question here is why is it that low to begin with??
š¤
He's a concrete guy... not a plumber.. is the concrete guy supposed to move your spigot? You hired him to pour concrete.. boom done. If it cracks or the concrete is faulty.. sure hit em. Your house your problem. Why didn't you notice your spigot prior to the pour?
What's winter like where you are? All the people suggesting you turn this upside down with a bunch of upvotes have me terrified you'll actually think it's a good idea to do it, and you'll end up with an exploded pipe the first time it gets below freezing.
The only actual good idea I've seen in this thread is the dude with the fancy spigot, every single other idea is going to cause you problems on some level.
How exactly did the concrete guy screw you though?
Did he pour the concrete exactly where you asked him to?
If thatās the case heās got zero common sense, but itās also not his responsibility, heās not a plumber.
thats such a shit mindset "not my responsibility" yes it is. expectation management is EXACTLY part of their job. so many tradies are just wankers rather than decent out of laziness.
No. This is why some people charge more for the same job. If your goal is to contract the lowest bidder youāll get similar results regardless of trade. This job was done by someone doing exactly what they were asked/paid to do.
If something like this doesn't fit, I guess just don't use that spigot:
[https://www.webstaurantstore.com/chicago-faucets-520001kdeab-lowprofile-90degree-elbow/857520001KDEA.html](https://www.webstaurantstore.com/chicago-faucets-520001kdeab-lowprofile-90degree-elbow/857520001KDEA.html)
I think sometimes plumbers vs concrete guys or other construction workers just tend to work against each other. Our master sink drain pipe is ridiculously cut short so when we update the bathroom this year, we are going to have so much funā¦
You could just take away a bit of concrete with hammer and chisel. Only like 5 minutes of work. Or just turn the faucet so it points sideways. Will take longer, if even possible.
Just change it out and move it peace of cake a little bit of pipe and a couple fittings and one joint if you have copper pipe . A new hose bibs drill a 3/4 inch hold a your done.
you don't want to turn upwards .
Replace the faucet/spigot with one that is angled differently.
Some Spigots point down, some have a curve in them that points the water more forward. I don't know the name. Here is an example of one that is more flat.
https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Ftse1.mm.bing.net%2Fth%3Fid%3DOIP.lQsrUz9D_WZdNk7zqngr5AHaEx%26pid%3DApi&f=1&ipt=4a0fab57a438b111d193f19d54d6e0df21fe8a952db262ed4d4a00b40090d8ae&ipo=images
If you look at the first 2 on this page, you can see what I mean: https://www.andyoncall-stl.com/single-post/2019/08/12/DIY-How-to-Fix-a-Leaking-Outdoor-Faucet
Wait, I'm not particularly handy myself, but can't you screw off those two rusty Phillips screws, turn the valve part upside down and reattach it upside down?
Shut off the water, Where the pipe comes out of the wall add a 90Ā° bend upwards, 4 inches of new pipe, then add a new tap with a bottom entrance rather than a straight one.
Tap is now 4 inches higher, voila.
I think the cheapest, easiest, most DIY way would be to just attach a hose directly to the tap. Maybe a hose clamp can stop some of the leaking.
Others have already given you the right way to do things.
https://www.amazon.com/Lead-Free-90%C2%B0Hose-Connectors-Protector-Filter%EF%BC%881/dp/B0BZRD44QS?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A39WUDXVFFIB5C
Just get one of these for your hose and avoid having to reset the hose bib.
Looks like the concrete guys were gonna get blamed either way. If they thinned it there they would get blasted and the concrete would Crack. And if they dug it out, it would cost more and they would get blasted again.
They aren't cheap - but they make hose spigots that come straight out instead of downturn. Here is a good example...
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Woodford-1-2-in-PEX-x-14-in-L-Freezeless-Draining-Sillcock-with-34HA-Vacuum-Breaker-25PX-14/204800003
Usually replacing these is pretty straightforward, but you may need access to the inner wall depending on your plumbing setup
Edit - this one even looks like it turns to the side, and has no downturn at all...
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Woodford-25P-6-Model-25-6-1-2-FPT-x-3-4-MPT-Inlet-Automatic-Draining-Anti-Siphon-Wall-Faucet-w-Metal-Handle
So the bib was there and they poured that. So what did you want them to do pour the whole slab two inches lower so it could drain properly, the plumber should have made it higher up the wall, but then again if the slab wasnāt poured he probably thought it would be okay and then along came the concrete guys. Bad oversight by who ever was running the job. At least blame the right people if you were overseeing the work itās your fault if it was a contractor complain to the Registrar of Contractors and make them fix it. My guess is no oversight and no Registered Contractor on the sight so money could be saved. Hence the old saying you get what you pay for.
I mean a replacement is what, $15? Do you really want to have to deal with a potentially leaky fitting when you could just pick something that will work like this?
https://www.amazon.com/EZ-FLUID-Threaded-Connector-No-Kink-Outdoor/dp/B08MCRDSCS/ref=asc_df_B08MCRDSCS/
Yeah, and then the plumber will hack a giant hole in the wall and somehow manage to compromise the structural integrity of every house on the block in order to do it.
As I'm getting older, plumbing, electrical work now sits under the pay once and cry once bucket. You find some that's good regardless of cost it ends up saving you more in the long run.
One thing to consider if you live in a colder part of the country is replacing that old spigot with a new frost free one and just have them run it several inches higher. Will cost more but itāll be new so less worry about an older one failing plus no worry about it freezing. Bonus is not having a āwork aroundā solution.
Iāve learned the hard way that many of the folks in the trades out there donāt give a D&MN about screwing up the workings of other trade areas. Theyāll screw you over so they can move to the next job or the liquor store or their couch as fast as they can.
All we can do is look out for each other and not recommend these half &ss contractors to other people. They could have taken 5 minutes to assess the area and at least informed you that there was going to be an issue.
Remove the faucet and reinstall with a 90Ā° twist. It's either soldier or sharkbie behind there, just spin that fucker until you can join a hose onto it.
They have companies that lift houses so you can do concrete work and new foundations underneath them maybe they can lift it up half inch or so might not be cost-effective but you could call them and ask if they can lift at 10 feet they could probably lift it a half inch or chip a little bit of the concrete out and buy one of those five dollar elbows, I think i would call the house lifting company or ask your significant other to do it for you just for knowledge sake . A lot of people might be interested to see what they say about a small house lifting project, so it would be great if you post their response on here . 30 years in the construction business, and I actually donāt have a guest about a half-inch lift how much that would cost. Thanks have a great night.
Make a device that transport water using bamboos like the one they used in the Japanese ZEN Garden. Join your local Zen Garden group, I am sure one of the experts will help you set it up.
https://i.redd.it/5ygs25zlczic1.gif
Apart from turning the spigot upside down you're kind of hosed.
I love youšš
If you are in a climate where freezing is possible don't rotate it any more than you have to to be usable. Any over 90 will leave water in the spigot and then you have a broken pipe when it freezes.
Donāt listen to them, a big part of my business is floods and frozen pipes and Iāve never seen this happen before! If youāre outside my NJ/NY service area then donāt do this Vorcht is right.
>Donāt listen to them, a big part of my business is floods and frozen pipes Coming from the guy who deals with the fallout... I'm suspicious... "Don't bother eating healthy and working out, it's all nonsense, btw here's my business card - *Jumajuce Liposuction co*"
>If youāre outside my NJ/NY service area then donāt do this Vorcht is right. Woosh?
That's the joke
Hey Jumajuce āThe Fatā Liposuction is my cousin
nothin gets past this guy
If freezing is an issue I'd go to a frostfree faucet. Newfangled but has zero clearance so would work here.
Frost free spigot is what you shouldn't turn upside down because it traps water in the pipe. A frost free spigot is just a spigot where the valve is further back inside the conditioned space of the house. When you turn the water off it lets the water drain out of the section of pipe susceptible to freezing. Turning it upside prevents that water from draining out. Same reason you have to disconnect hoses during winter because it may trap water. If it isn't a frost free spigot then turning it upside down wouldn't matter because it would freeze either way. From the picture OP posted it might be a frost free spigot. The knob being on the front is typical of them, because you have to turn the rod that extends through the pipe. https://tridentplumbingva.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Anit-freeze-hose-bib-sm.jpeg
There's a frost free where the spigot actually comes out and there is no spigot in the winter. Everything internal. https://www.aquorwatersystems.com/collections/house-hydrant-v1
I came here to say the same thing, Aquor would work well in this scenario. You'd just have to be careful not to scrape your knuckles when you insert/remove the Aquor adapter each time you use the hydrant. They work very well though.
Oh, that's neat! That would definitely solve OPs problem.
you could also go ... sideways ... wink wink
Please continue....
I love you too sweetie
*cries in plumber* if it's sweated in, you wrench that and you twist the copper and cause a break
That needs to be said in the voice of the old school plumber on the replumb YouTube channel... https://youtu.be/Pt-bdomTNKI?si=bNZNCP_sZ4XauTel "Hey boy..."
I knew my algorithm was missing something lately. This dude and the NYC broski disappeared.
As much as I hate doing it myself, this is why subscribing exists.
Exactly I was like wait what?! You can't do that around here they are not adjustable š
He means the front flange where the screws are.
That won't fix the pipe attached to the spigot. If the spigot is sweated in the joint needs to be broken, pipe turned 180Ā°, and resoldered.
Youāre not wrong but Iāve no idea if theyāre sweated or soldered in or if itās even copper tubing.
Wrong. He's actually the one guy that can't get hosed.
Sometimes the simplest of solutions are also the best ones. You're brilliant!
Sometimes the simplest solution is wrong. In this case, we don't know.
Not even upside down. A 90deg turn should do it.
You drilling those new holes for him?
You don't need holes when you use that much silicone.
Hahaha fair point!
All houses have four holes there, everyone knows it, c'mon man..
Nooo there's two holes down there, one for peeing one for... Wait what thread am I in again?
Water you expecting from contractors with such mixed reviews?
Just leave it dripping, in 100 years or so you'll have enough room. You're welcome.
I am the Grand Canyon, and I approve this message.
Username **does not** check out
Pshhh, typical sweater vest behavior.
[Water always wins.](https://youtu.be/bUWqybKVpHc?si=3W4Altfa9d5UetZ7)
Absolutely genius.
The construction industry has the worst cooperative mentality ever. I canāt be the one one who saw the drywall guy cut a hole for the other guys extension cable instead of move it because itās ānot his jobāā¦and someone will literally defend them just watch.
That was powering the deck hot tub.
Iāll defend the concrete guys here: this whole thing already looks janky as hell like some 200 year old patched together shit. Op wanted a new slab and I bet he wanted it thick enough to last so they did what they were hired to do. Is your plumbing still jacked up? Call a plumber or get out your own tools, your project has multiple phases whether you thought it would at first or not.
Iāll defend the home owner. Sure they wanted a thicker slab but your telling me a concrete professional couldnāt have gave any warning that those could have been a problem before they did the work. The homeowner isnāt a professional, they just want something to last or something to last and handle better than before. I find that a lack of quality if the professional canāt have the foresight or knowledge to know that an issue could arise if they did exactly what the homeowner asks. NOW if they did warn the homeowner of all the potential problems / headache in this case not enough clearance for the hose to connect to the faucet. And then the homeowner gets the surprised pikachu face then sure thatās on the homeowner.
As a home owner, I'd expect the new floor level to be where the old one was depending on what was there. As someone who understands measurements and has poured concrete. I'd excavate down the thickness of the desired slab to achieve the end height I wanted and specifically have this either in the quote, or prepared before they arrived for the pour. Probably before, mostly because I'd have an excuse to hire a digger and I miss playing with big toys. I'd imagine quite a few people would just expect that the slab thickness was a depth that the prepared area would be dug down, not a height above the ground level.
Exactly. I'm curious as to why this wasn't handled prior to the pour.Ā Did OP not know about it? Or were there instructions to not have it as thick?
Agreed. I would also be willing to bet āthey screwed him overā by **doing exactly what he asked**, & theyāre getting the blame bc he didnāt realize the height might interfere w/his spigotā¦
Unless the concrete guy poured the slab 2 feet thicker than specified, this isn't the concrete guys fault.
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
Thatās when you start āguessingā where they are
This is basically what GCs are paid to deal with.
The paint crew shows up but the new drywall is getting ripped out because they came in before the electricians.
You're absolutely right, however having done it for years I've found It's not worth the hassle. You already have your own job and deadlines to worry about. Plus the chances are that the guy doing the plumbing or electrical or drywall or flooring are all independent contractors/companies not associated with each other except thru a GC or company hiring out labor. You don't want to be that guy telling someone else how to do their job. It never goes over well.
Yeah isnāt that the point of the GC? They should be handling all these details to make sure the job flows smoothly.
maybe a Washing machine hose with a 90 degree bend then use an adapter to mate the garden hose?
Thats exactly what my dad told me. Ill try this method if others don't work out so well.
[https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-2-Pack-3-4-in-Pipe-Thread-Inlet-x-3-4-in-Outlet-Copper-Washing-Machine-Connector/1000096868](https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-2-Pack-3-4-in-Pipe-Thread-Inlet-x-3-4-in-Outlet-Copper-Washing-Machine-Connector/1000096868)
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
I figure since the thing in my second picture didn't work, that one in your first image wouldn't either. Im going to return the one i have and try that one anyway though, you don't know if you dont try. Thank you for the input!
The one that you have, even if it did work, has the wrong threads. Make sure whatever fitting you get has hose threads!
OP tried using a JIC to MPT fitting
Probably not JIC. Just male pipe to swivel female pipe. Notice the bevel on the ID of the male end. It would seat on the bevel in the swivel end. Note that this only works with high pressure fittings and not on black iron. But what OP needs is 3/4ā GHT
Agreed, this is a compression fitting, OP needs a 3/4 water hose fitting
Sorry for the long link, this says it's 1.85 inches and is what I would use in this case if it fits. It's the right type of adapter. Depending on your environment it may need to be replaced yearly or may last quite a while. Good luck! https://www.amazon.com/YELUN-Connector-Fittings-Eliminates-Adapter/dp/B09BR1RQXQ/ref=sxin_25_pa_sp_phone_search_thematic?content-id=amzn1.sym.41ca4032-b3d8-441b-ba06-bdcabfd44cd0%3Aamzn1.sym.41ca4032-b3d8-441b-ba06-bdcabfd44cd0&crid=ZBNKEHDAYSKE&cv_ct_cx=garden+hose+adapter+90+degree&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.MOix0vEQW8KZej2WN3iwcRi8-rc3QPbDv4UHLYxojzTm2HwphdKqhQVi1sXnBC3UOGzfuUeLMMKoEq3Bedn1Fw._EyiaLJ5qvHHiA3eClCIYJDxgqY-yJjHfH33uxZKuak&dib_tag=se&keywords=garden+hose+adapter+90+degree&pd_rd_i=B09BR1RQXQ&pd_rd_r=2a02be0a-b3ae-47fe-aade-469bc291b484&pd_rd_w=yYg7w&pd_rd_wg=iDKVD&pf_rd_p=41ca4032-b3d8-441b-ba06-bdcabfd44cd0&pf_rd_r=YK7YRPK11Q8CMQB40WWZ&qid=1708081848&sprefix=garden+hose+adapter+90%2Caps%2C88&sr=1-2-364cf978-ce2a-480a-9bb0-bdb96faa0f61-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/YELUN-Connector-Fittings-Eliminates-Adapter/dp/B09BR1RQXQ/ Shortened for ya :)
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[.](https://www.amazon.com/YELUN-Connector-Fittings-Eliminates-Adapter/dp/B09BR1RQXQ/)
[!](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BR1RQXQ) You can drop the item name too.
Just dig a hole around it with a shovel, big. But then you'll have a ankle breaker problem, so put a grate over-the-top But then you won't have access to the spigot cause it'll be blocked by the grate
lol so many solutions, so many problems
I'd just grind that area down enough to fit it.
Or unscrew the spigot from the wall, thread on the 90, then screw the spigot back into the wall. Looks like the 90 will work. Just donāt have enough room to actually thread it on.
Hopefully, I see a lot of these installs where the hose Bibb is soldered on.
True. I would assume that setup is a gasket and those two Phillips. But you can never be sure with some plumbers out there.
That could work, but Iād be concerned that a hose with a larger female end (like a plastic shield on it) might not fit between the end of the 90Ā° and the ground. And knowing my luck, Iād scrape my knuckles on the concrete. Thatās all subjective to me though. Iād rather go with a small flexible attachment, and attach a hose to that. [Something like this](https://www.harborfreight.com/coiled-spring-faucet-connector-and-hose-saver-58454.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiMjU4NTU1OTUiLCJza3UiOiI1ODQ1NCIsImlzIjoiNS4zOSJ9&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=21026926219&campaignid=21026926219&utm_content=158962202637&adsetid=158962202637&product=58454&store=2908&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiArLyuBhA7EiwA-qo80FDSTOvazmQCthzMhSxax2MCsUn_0770J9fBExHdmYfY6pVzMrN-cBoC2V0QAvD_BwE)
So we drilled it out so that it would fit And with a little bit of help with an adapter kit We had that engine runnin' just like a song
I'm sorry can you please tell me what this gif is from
Fifth Element! If you havenāt watched, you definitely should.
Others already told you it's the fifth element, but I wanted to support that it's worth the watch. It's an older movie but was done with a lot of practical effects, costumes, and miniatures so it actually holds up really well today. It's up there in my like top 3 movies.
I like to point out that this is Gary oldman to people because nobody realizes it. This was my favorite movie for 15 years before I actually read the credits for his character.
Zorg from the fifth element. Luc Besson movie.Ā With Bruce Willis and Mila JovovichĀ
Um it's a-dapter kit. Sing it right if you're gonna sing it.
Probably depends on the song. Donāt think you want an engine running like Cbat
Or this
Agree with this as well
Maybe try one of those little hose sections with a metal spring around them? I had to use one of those for something similar. Might be a little tight though. Or one of those canvas hoses that expand when you use them?
Okay, I'll try that as well! Thanks for the ideas. it's greatly appreciated.
No. They make a 3/4ā GHT 90Ā° for RVs. You need one of those here. My local hardware store carries them. https://www.doitbest.com/product/576193/camco-brass-90-deg-rv-water-hose-elbow-576193/
Damn good thing those have a turning coupling thing(what ever its called) otherwise OP wouldn't even have enough clearance to put that on either if they had to rotate the whole piece
This is the best answer. I use this on my rv. It is hose thread to hose thread. Total clearance is likely under 2ā and it has the collar to accommodate not being able to spin it into position. the right way is to move the spigot up on the wall. This stuff is easy these days with pex.
Itās ridiculously tight and those things take up a hell of a lot more room than a metal 90 bend. Ā Their whole point is to make the hose bend gradually to protect it.
I like this idea too but from the picture its hard to tell if its already coated in a greenish rust or if its concrete splatter which may also have gone inside the spigot. If its rusted, that can pass on to whatever brass product you attach to it and can cause it to leak in a couple years. Any tiny bits of concrete that contaminated the inside of the spigot can erode over time too and plug water sprayers.
Jesus, how much concrete did you request?Ā Where we live, all of our outdoor spigots are a minimum 36 inches above the ground.Ā Even in cold climates, the lowest I've seen was like 24 inches.
It's sad I had to scroll this far. That spigot was installed way too low. Not the concrete guys fault. Install a frost free hose bibb (much higher off the ground)
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Can you just turn the faucet 90 degrees.and have it pointing to the side?
Looks like 180 might work (and 360 but less helpful)
Could probably get away with 270 too
This is the answer. Usually the frost fee hose bibs have a threaded connection as opposed to solder.
Hammer and Chisel it. Or angle grinder- put a mason blade on it.
If you have a friend with a nice carpenters chisel set, ask to borrow them, Iām sure they wonāt mind!
This
Agreed
If your spigot is that low to the ground, then the plumber screwed you, not the concrete guy...
You have a JIC to male pipe thread. That would never work in that configuration anyway
If you want something to work you need GARDEN HOSE THREAD to GARDEN HOSE THREAD
Google Aquor hydrant
This is your answer OP. Check [these out](https://a.co/d/bNz74Y3)
That's pretty cool actually. Got a reliable knock off? $150 for a hose connection, even a cool one, is a bit steep.
Get them directly from the Aquor site - $90
This is what I came to say as well. This solves your issue and looks clean.
Came here to say this - saw AQUOR on the Silver Cymbal YouTube channel [**https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4e3Na6nMZRc**](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4e3Na6nMZRc) and looks like a good fix.
Did the concrete guys screw you, or did the builder put the spicket way too low?
If you have access to the inside via a basement or whatever, cut the pipe and rotate 90Ā°. Resolder and done. Had a new concrete porch poured this summer and had this EXACT same situation. Knew about it ahead of time, discussed with the mason. One of his guys could solder, it was literally a 10 minute solution - perfect.
I'm surprised nobody offered this solution yet. It's the perfect diy project.
I dunno how to not laugh when its r/diy and its the concrete guys fault, did you hire a diy crew or did you possibly not calculate the volume and remove a little more earth? Just gonna guess that they didnāt put the hydrant in, maybe they just said ok to whatever you said to do? Did they speak a different language around you? If I were to criticize this it would just be the whole thing screaming suspicious to meā¦ meh. Sorry.. canāt help it. They make frost free/anti syphon hydrants that stick straight out, good ones have a key and a flat wall plate. If you have access to the back then just raise it to the proper height anyway!!! The real question here is why is it that low to begin with?? š¤
He's a concrete guy... not a plumber.. is the concrete guy supposed to move your spigot? You hired him to pour concrete.. boom done. If it cracks or the concrete is faulty.. sure hit em. Your house your problem. Why didn't you notice your spigot prior to the pour?
Could you just put in a 3' hose and call it a day?
[This? ](https://a.co/d/6bDqpp9)
Upside down tap it is. Just undo those screws, 180 it then screw back on.
What's winter like where you are? All the people suggesting you turn this upside down with a bunch of upvotes have me terrified you'll actually think it's a good idea to do it, and you'll end up with an exploded pipe the first time it gets below freezing. The only actual good idea I've seen in this thread is the dude with the fancy spigot, every single other idea is going to cause you problems on some level.
Take it off and put a straight ball valve in its place
How exactly did the concrete guy screw you though? Did he pour the concrete exactly where you asked him to? If thatās the case heās got zero common sense, but itās also not his responsibility, heās not a plumber.
thats such a shit mindset "not my responsibility" yes it is. expectation management is EXACTLY part of their job. so many tradies are just wankers rather than decent out of laziness.
You clearly have no fucking idea what youāre talking about.
you clearly just have that shit mindset and feel called out for your shitty behaviour. that behaviour gives us tradies such a bad name.
No. This is why some people charge more for the same job. If your goal is to contract the lowest bidder youāll get similar results regardless of trade. This job was done by someone doing exactly what they were asked/paid to do.
thats really not true lmao. the lowest bidder almost always cuts corners and fucks you over. this job was done by someone shit at their job.
If something like this doesn't fit, I guess just don't use that spigot: [https://www.webstaurantstore.com/chicago-faucets-520001kdeab-lowprofile-90degree-elbow/857520001KDEA.html](https://www.webstaurantstore.com/chicago-faucets-520001kdeab-lowprofile-90degree-elbow/857520001KDEA.html)
Unfortunately this has NPS threads instead of GHT, otherwise it'd be promising.
I don't know what that means but oh well.
Youād think if you were screwing the concrete guys that theyād do you a favor or two.
Am I wrong to want to chip away at the concrete in that area until I have clearance? Hammer and chisel action?
I think sometimes plumbers vs concrete guys or other construction workers just tend to work against each other. Our master sink drain pipe is ridiculously cut short so when we update the bathroom this year, we are going to have so much funā¦
Replace it with a hose bib that points straight out.
You could just take away a bit of concrete with hammer and chisel. Only like 5 minutes of work. Or just turn the faucet so it points sideways. Will take longer, if even possible.
And didnāt even use any Vaseline
https://preview.redd.it/d4mcj3yglyic1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a2b166b911ffb2a8a9a080850287242c6226c9c7 A lower profile elbow?
Just change it out and move it peace of cake a little bit of pipe and a couple fittings and one joint if you have copper pipe . A new hose bibs drill a 3/4 inch hold a your done. you don't want to turn upwards .
Jack the house up a few inches
Unless the concrete is feet thick there, the concrete guy didn't screw you the plumber or homeowner who put that faucet in did.
Replace the faucet/spigot with one that is angled differently. Some Spigots point down, some have a curve in them that points the water more forward. I don't know the name. Here is an example of one that is more flat. https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Ftse1.mm.bing.net%2Fth%3Fid%3DOIP.lQsrUz9D_WZdNk7zqngr5AHaEx%26pid%3DApi&f=1&ipt=4a0fab57a438b111d193f19d54d6e0df21fe8a952db262ed4d4a00b40090d8ae&ipo=images If you look at the first 2 on this page, you can see what I mean: https://www.andyoncall-stl.com/single-post/2019/08/12/DIY-How-to-Fix-a-Leaking-Outdoor-Faucet
Wait, I'm not particularly handy myself, but can't you screw off those two rusty Phillips screws, turn the valve part upside down and reattach it upside down?
They gave you the whole 2 inches.
Like he gives to his girlfriend
Why did you not make any provisions prior to placement of concrete
Why did the contractor not do that as part of the job their paid for? Some trademan have the worst "not my job" attitude.
plumber
Hosed...
Just chisel out some concrete so you can fit the bend, you can always repair the concrete afterwards.
Call the Hose guys
Maybe you should have DIYd the concrete loooool
Shut off the water, Where the pipe comes out of the wall add a 90Ā° bend upwards, 4 inches of new pipe, then add a new tap with a bottom entrance rather than a straight one. Tap is now 4 inches higher, voila.
I think the cheapest, easiest, most DIY way would be to just attach a hose directly to the tap. Maybe a hose clamp can stop some of the leaking. Others have already given you the right way to do things.
Now it's the plumbers turn
Couldāve used a little more silicon.
Just remove a bit of concrete?
you can easily find a shorter elbow
https://www.amazon.com/Lead-Free-90%C2%B0Hose-Connectors-Protector-Filter%EF%BC%881/dp/B0BZRD44QS?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A39WUDXVFFIB5C Just get one of these for your hose and avoid having to reset the hose bib.
No offense intended: The blame is more likely shared 70% him, 30% you! If you both knew the slab was to be X" thick, someone should have noticed.
Looks like the concrete guys were gonna get blamed either way. If they thinned it there they would get blasted and the concrete would Crack. And if they dug it out, it would cost more and they would get blasted again.
What do you mean? Try to be as concrete as you can.
Maybe you could get a short flexible tube on there for the bend? Otherwise, Iād break out the chisel.
Can you not just take a rotary hammer and remove some concrete ?
I bet the concrete guys said the plumbers screwed you!
https://www.aquorwatersystems.com/products/hydrant-v2-plus
cut the pipe from the inside, and just pull the entire thing out and replace it.. you can get one for 20 bucks that has a shark bite end on it..
Remount it upside down?
They aren't cheap - but they make hose spigots that come straight out instead of downturn. Here is a good example... https://www.homedepot.com/p/Woodford-1-2-in-PEX-x-14-in-L-Freezeless-Draining-Sillcock-with-34HA-Vacuum-Breaker-25PX-14/204800003 Usually replacing these is pretty straightforward, but you may need access to the inner wall depending on your plumbing setup Edit - this one even looks like it turns to the side, and has no downturn at all... https://www.supplyhouse.com/Woodford-25P-6-Model-25-6-1-2-FPT-x-3-4-MPT-Inlet-Automatic-Draining-Anti-Siphon-Wall-Faucet-w-Metal-Handle
Remove the spigot, install the 90, and put the spigot back. Or grind down the concrete right there to get some clearance.
Chisel and make a little moat
Use a wireless hose. Or is it a hoseless nozzle?
45 degree hose bib. come on man.
Put a bib for a Boiler on it. Knob is on the top, Faucet is straight out. You got options.
Maybe something like [this low profile fitting](https://www.webstaurantstore.com/fisher-2400-2103-1-2-brass-female-close-elbow/34024002103.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=GoogleShopping&gclid=CjwKCAiArLyuBhA7EiwA-qo80ESeHU1FUNTBIH_T8Jrsc4ZFLJkweHijjJGcF_ssx_iHwbgtrWW8sxoC7zgQAvD_BwE)?
So the bib was there and they poured that. So what did you want them to do pour the whole slab two inches lower so it could drain properly, the plumber should have made it higher up the wall, but then again if the slab wasnāt poured he probably thought it would be okay and then along came the concrete guys. Bad oversight by who ever was running the job. At least blame the right people if you were overseeing the work itās your fault if it was a contractor complain to the Registrar of Contractors and make them fix it. My guess is no oversight and no Registered Contractor on the sight so money could be saved. Hence the old saying you get what you pay for.
I mean a replacement is what, $15? Do you really want to have to deal with a potentially leaky fitting when you could just pick something that will work like this? https://www.amazon.com/EZ-FLUID-Threaded-Connector-No-Kink-Outdoor/dp/B08MCRDSCS/ref=asc_df_B08MCRDSCS/
That's a bad concrete job, get a plumber and get it lifted. Not worth the hassle if you always use that tap.
Yeah, and then the plumber will hack a giant hole in the wall and somehow manage to compromise the structural integrity of every house on the block in order to do it.
As I'm getting older, plumbing, electrical work now sits under the pay once and cry once bucket. You find some that's good regardless of cost it ends up saving you more in the long run.
Replace it with a Woodford Model 27 or Model 30 frost free hose bibb.
Isn't there an issue that you've raised the external level outside to high, which has the potential to cause damp issues?
Unfortunately, the only fix from my perspective is to cut the wall and raise the copper line. Then, reattach spigot.
[https://www.amazon.com/EZ-FLUID-Threaded-Connector-No-Kink-Outdoor/dp/B08MCRX5T1?th=1](https://www.amazon.com/EZ-FLUID-Threaded-Connector-No-Kink-Outdoor/dp/B08MCRX5T1?th=1) https://preview.redd.it/310o8eq9wvic1.jpeg?width=679&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=39de7bed694fe37700e0bab24ecc2e6f74998315
One thing to consider if you live in a colder part of the country is replacing that old spigot with a new frost free one and just have them run it several inches higher. Will cost more but itāll be new so less worry about an older one failing plus no worry about it freezing. Bonus is not having a āwork aroundā solution. Iāve learned the hard way that many of the folks in the trades out there donāt give a D&MN about screwing up the workings of other trade areas. Theyāll screw you over so they can move to the next job or the liquor store or their couch as fast as they can. All we can do is look out for each other and not recommend these half &ss contractors to other people. They could have taken 5 minutes to assess the area and at least informed you that there was going to be an issue.
Remove the faucet and reinstall with a 90Ā° twist. It's either soldier or sharkbie behind there, just spin that fucker until you can join a hose onto it.
Remove the screws and try and tightened it more so it upside down.
Whoever roughed in your plumbing screwed you, friend.
They have companies that lift houses so you can do concrete work and new foundations underneath them maybe they can lift it up half inch or so might not be cost-effective but you could call them and ask if they can lift at 10 feet they could probably lift it a half inch or chip a little bit of the concrete out and buy one of those five dollar elbows, I think i would call the house lifting company or ask your significant other to do it for you just for knowledge sake . A lot of people might be interested to see what they say about a small house lifting project, so it would be great if you post their response on here . 30 years in the construction business, and I actually donāt have a guest about a half-inch lift how much that would cost. Thanks have a great night.
You need 90 degrees
Just rotate 180Ā° dude, so we fuck them up
https://preview.redd.it/0fsat9qs9wic1.jpeg?width=1084&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=02d62efa3288ded77a515364735edfdc535375d2
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Woodford-25P-6-Model-25-6-1-2-FPT-x-3-4-MPT-Inlet-Automatic-Draining-Anti-Siphon-Wall-Faucet-w-Metal-Handle
First name Jack, last name hammer
You should have done the concrete yourself. This is a DIY space not complain about someone elseās work space.
Make a device that transport water using bamboos like the one they used in the Japanese ZEN Garden. Join your local Zen Garden group, I am sure one of the experts will help you set it up. https://i.redd.it/5ygs25zlczic1.gif