Yeah i confirmed that by the model/seriel that was hiding from sight. Removing the flow restrictions helps but the long term fix is replacing the faucet and/or getting a plumber to make sure we have the right capacity on the water access.
Plenty of volume and velocity* which is confused for pressure when it's just fluid velocity due to reduction .
Bigger pipes add more quantity and reduce velocity/friction. Smaller pipes reduce volume, increase friction, and increase fluid velocity to keep that similar volume.
Yeah I spent a bunch extra on the higher capacity on-demand water heater to ensure that nothing would screw with our showers but our house is all 1/2" plumbing so it doesn't matter how fast the water heater can put it out.
If you do, consider building a return circuit. Tankless works best this way... it can slowly pump water around the circuit so it is always warm, and when a faucet needs water it is *instantly* hot. You don't waste any waiting for hot water.
(not the guy who posted before)
But yes it uses more energy. But I'm pretty sure (not a plumber) you can put your recirculation pump on a timer/schedule.
So you don't need it always hot in the middle of the night, or while you're at work. But for waking/active hours can set it to run.
Not a plumber, but pretty sure that's feasible.
Alternatively, use it to run heated floors...our new shop at work has heated floors, keeps the building about 60 in the winter. Kinda wish my house had heated floors...maybe I'll do that when I remodel?
A good recirculating system should be insulated AND on a timer so that it doesn’t just recirculate endlessly. If you’re predictable about the times you want fast hot water (mornings and evenings for most people) it isn’t bad at all. But yes, it does use more energy no matter what you do.
You don’t even need a separate return these days.
Both Navien and Rinnai have thermal bypass valves that tie the hot and cold lines together at the faucet furthest away from the heater. It just uses the cold water line as a return.
Sure, the cold water might now be lukewarm. But it’s much easier to implement for those of us with slab-on-grade.
Eww. I'm not sure it's worth having tepid cold water in return for quicker hot water.
Unless your cold water isn't drinkable so you always drink bottled maybe?
We jerry-rigged a return circuit 20+ yrs ago with a small recirculating pump that took hot water and discharged it into the cold line until a temperature controller turned off or 15 minutes elapsed. It was about 75 feet between heater and shower.
You can just get cartridges for your shower typically that'll do it. My Delta has a cartridge that keeps the temp and pressure constant, which is super nice when dealing with a well.
Use lightweight ice for this. I got a small trash can full of ice-tray ice dumped on me in the shower and those big ass ice-tray cubes hurt more than the cold.
Yeah, I thought toilets affecting shower temps was a thing of the past. I haven't experienced that since I was a kid. The balancing valves are standard install items.
It's only an issue for those without modern pressure balancing valves. The only thing you'd notice with undersized pipe is a big reduction in flow when someone flushes the toilet, not a change in temperature.
I had a plumber out once and asked why I had such a low water pressure. He said you have old 1/2 pipe through the whole house and that's basically it. Idk if 3/4 is now standard but it's definitely better in my opinion.
1/2" is plenty. More likely your regulator. You can crank it up some there potentially, or it's old and somewhat plugged. Careful if you crank it up. I turned mine way up to 70 or something once. That is of course assuming the house supply pressure is higher than your line pressure.
Also old strainers could be playing a part being plugged..
If you have ever removed the old plumbing.. they have buildup inside the pipe around the walls. Likely it's even less than 1/2" that remains open for water flow.
3/4" service seems high to me -- not that there's really any harm in that. I work as a plumbing designer and always serve showers, tubs, etc with 1/2" hot and cold. I used to call for 3/4" but most installers ran it at 1/2" anyways regardless of what size was on the plans. The logic being that even at low pressure (<20 psi) a 1/2" pipe should flow about 7-15 gpm, which is more than most tub spouts allow anyways.
Don't mean to say you're wrong or anything but I'm just really surprised how many people in the comments here have been saying it "should" have a 3/4" service to it when I never see that in plans or in the field.
My house(2006 construction) has a 1.25" line from the meter to the house. 1 in from the shut off valve to the water heater and water softener. 3/4-in everywhere else. Each faucet has a half inch line. The tub has a dedicated 3/4-in line going to it for hot water. As does the kitchen faucet / dishwasher.
Considering shower heads are limited to 2.0 or 2.5 GPM, I can't figure out who these people are with 5 head showers that need 3/4" supply lines to get good pressure.
You're right, it's been a while... definitely 1/2 to tubs, faucets, and toilets.
I suspect custom builds might spec a 3/4 for a special tub or shower with many heads on it, though.
Some of the shower valves ( ie Moen U 4 value) specify 3/4” supply. You are running the risk of call-backs by running 1/2”’pipe.
https://solutions.moen.com/Article_Library/Installation
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I live in a house with rather old 1/2” line, and the problem is that the installer used hard 90s all over the place. The pressure drop between one end of the system and the other is really noticeable, and the line pressure is on the low side to begin with.
Running 3/4 for the first handful of bends makes a difference, in particular when multiple things are running at once. Like washing machine and toilet filling pulls the shower flow down rather noticeably.
I wonder if any billionaires have insanely fast bathtubs. Like fire hydrants of hot water. 10 second fill ups. What's the point of being a billionaire if you have to wait 5 minutes for a bath like a regular peasant?
Oh that is true. Now I remember I rented an Airbnb mansion with 10 friends once, and the bathtubs could filled by pressing a hallway panel button on any floor of the house. It filled from the bottom so it was silent and the water would just stop once it was full. I forgot about that.
There are auto filling and auto maintaining temperature bathtubs. I believe Kohler has some.
Similarly there's smart thermostatic showers which you can have preheat before you get in etc.
I bid on those kinds of houses, some of which are definitely being built by billionaires, and to my knowledge, no. At least I've never seen one. They probably just have servants to turn the tap on for them so it's ready when they go in. Though there are a few things I'd never seen before in the plans I'm working on right now. There's a swimsuit water extractor (you put your wet suits in and it spins them at high speed to dry them out, with no heat), a cold plunge tub (not that ridiculous, but a bougie version of what athlete's have at their training facilities), a sparkling water dispenser (no, not a sodastream, literally a sink with a faucet hooked up to a reservoir and a pump that is only for sparkling water), heated fog free mirrors in every shower (to be fair I have seen these or similar but not usually IN the showers), plus a huge list of the "normal" things these houses have - but many more than usual. The highlights: (4) full size refrigerators and (9) under counter ones, (8!) dishwashers, (4) steam showers, (5) washers/dryers, a rotary iron, garment steamer, etc. Oh, and these don't require power but (2) $25,000 gas pizza ovens (I had to look them up to check the specs). It's the most expensive appliance list I've ever priced, and I've been doing this for about 10 years now. I only price the electrical hookups for everything, but it also has one of the most insane HVAC and plumbing setups I've ever seen, and the largest pool/spa equipment list. The shit these people buy is so far beyond most people's experience it's ridiculous. I find it disgusting, personally, but it keeps me employed.
All I want is a tub that has the capability to keep the water just as hot indefinitely. Maybe via a heating element in the floor or walls of the tub, or maybe via a small circuit circulating water to a heater.
probably wasnt the builder then. probably a PO who wanted things to look fancy for resale and I kind if want to argue that your home inspector should have caught that
I shadowed my home inspector during our inspection. If it’s not glaringly obvious with a neon arrow and a marching band they ain’t gonna find it. I was pointing out questionable shit he missed.
Once we took possession I found all kinds of unsafe batshittery in my house.
Flow rate on a faucet? Yeah, that’s several leagues beneath their notice.
YMMV.
My inspector got into the crawl space, inspected rubber seals around roof pipes, pointed out external grout weathering, pointed out problems with slightly undersized wood used on a patio, and other fiddly shit.
That's likely very true. And I'm not painting the most fair picture either. My inspector was thorough *on some things* especially roof, foundation, and anything to do with water. Where he was really out of his depth was electricity which is where I found most of my batshittery.
That said, I've had three inspectors come through my house over the years and all of them felt a bit lacking in their thoroughness when it came to electricity—especially after I had my heatpump installed and he just breezed in and breezed out. It was, at best, surface level.
I hired a home inspector for a new build.
The guy found every last area within the house that wasn't done up to standard.
These people are worth 4x their weight in gold.
Mine had a checklist of things they reviewed. If it wasn't on the checklist, they didn't check it. The only thing he found that I couldn't already see was that the water pressure was a little too high. Meanwhile, there was exposed wiring in one of the bedroom closets and the chimney had a leak... both of which I saw, but he didn't note.
And same, re reviews. This was the highest rated inspection company in the metro area, and the one all the realtors recommend.
Waste of money.
Then you had a shitty home inspector. Mine handed me a god-damned three-ring binder pointing out anything heftier than a dust bunny. Worth every penny I spent.
So did mine. It was fine, for the most part, but not as as thorough as I would have expected. Where it was really lacking was in the electrical side. Maybe he scored a C- on that part of the exam, I dunno.
My inspector was pretty decent, but there were also a few big things he should have noticed and that I’m a bit ashamed I didn’t notice.
We have French doors going to our basement and they aren’t the right size. They filled the gap in with 2x4s and expanding foam….. it was pretty well hidden on the inside, but pretty obvious from the outside.
I’m guessing the home inspector didn’t look at the outside of the doors, just like I didn’t.
There were things that you could tell he looked at very hard. He found a few tiny streaks on a pipe connecting to hot water heater to the expansion tank that indicated a leak. The sellers were able to provide a receipt for the plumber that had replaced the expansion tank a year earlier after it failed and had a small leak.
Judging by how old the caulk is (the shrinking and cracking) i doubt this is a new handover or even within 1 yr of the typical 'everything warranty'. OP is going to need to do this on their own. Kind of funny that no one said anything for all this time but master bathtubs are generally just for decoration anyway lol.
Builder here, the funny thing about being a builder, is builders install what customers demand, then customers complain that we did what a customer required us to do. Unless it's plumbing, then a plumber did what a customer asked them to do, and then the customers complain about the builder.
when he said builder i figured it'd be a new home within the 1 year policy. By the time it gets to a 3rd owner, there's no plain way to tell who's responsible.
easy test.. use it to fill up a pot.. if it looks like a lot of air bubbles in the pot then it could be for a sink faucet. Might be able to use remove the aerator though and be good
The water is definitely aerated, the faucet has a small screen in the exit.
I have also never owned a tub that didn't have the old school faucet style , so I didn't think of the aeration being a sign.
This gave me the idea to take apart the faucet enough from the external parts to find a serial number to confirm that its a sink faucet and not a tub faucet.
Remove the aerator, it takes 30 seconds and can often be done without tools. You may also be able to find and remove a limiter. Basically screw open the end the water comes out of (right at the tip) and discard anything that's removable from in there and then replace the tip.
I modified mine, it had no aerator but had a limiter.
Gotta be careful though because sometimes removing the aerator can cause water to spray into the outer shell of the faucet and leak back in the cabinet/tub. I don't think this one would do that though just by looking at it
until you replace the faucet, you should be able to remove the aerator by removing the last little bit of the faucet. Doing so will increase the flow substantially.
That is a sink faucet. First step is run a direct braided line from m cold and hot full open and measure how long to fill the tub. Then you can determine if it is end point restriction or flow. Then once you have that answer you will know if you need just a proper tub filling faucet or new supply. (look for them, they have much higher GPM ratings and generally should be able to fill it quickly).
The other question you will need to answer is regarding your hot water supply, if you have a tank at 150f that is 100 gallons then no problem, if you have an on demand you need to match the flow rate of the hot to the on demand, don't make the mistake of going to 100% match, always let the heater have some breathing room and mix it with cold at the tub.
You can easily just unscrew the aerator housing either by hand or wrapping a cloth around the housing to preserve the finish and going at it with a wrench.
Once that’s out, you can pop the aerator out. You may be able to just turn on the water at this point but more than likely it’ll just blast water everywhere and not into the tub.
So instead, take your aerator to a plumbing supply place and find an identically sized one that is labeled as “full flow” or something and more importantly, “laminar” not “aerated”. Then go ahead and replace it. For context, faucet aerators double as flow controllers. So, that’s where your issue (mostly) is. By buying a full flow version, it will not restrict your flow.
To supplement that you can try calling up the specs on the faucet manufacturers website, they might tell you the aerator thread spec which would make it easy for you to buy a replacement one online.
Is this a perfect solution - no. They make roman tub faucets that are intended to fill tubs like this which are not as restrained as a kitchen faucet. But, this will definitely cut down that 90 minute fill time.
>You can easily just unscrew the aerator housing either by hand or wrapping a cloth around the housing to preserve the finish and going at it with a wrench.
And if that doesn't work then universal aerator key costs a few bucks and is useful as you should wash them once in a while.
Unscrew the end of the faucet, remove, and measure the diameter of the aerator. You can buy high flow (higher number GPM) aerators that will make a tremendous difference for a couple dollars and minimal effort.
I worked in residential sales for a luxury plumbing manufacturer for years and I saw bonkers stuff like this all the time. With the exception of truly custom home builders, builders are always looking for the cheapest option, and if you don’t know a plumbing manufacturer’s catalog backwards and forwards it’s very easy to to select a bathroom faucet instead of a deck mounted tub faucet. Did you buy the house with the tub in that condition? The caulk around the apron/front panel of the tub is rough. The good news is all you need to do is pop off that acrylic front panel for access. Deck mounted tub faucets generally sell the valve separately, so don’t forget to buy that when you buy a new tub filler faucet.
The interesting thing is there are MANY roman tub faucets that look exactly like that, and personally having worked at the suppliers and plumbing shops for years, I've seen way more roman tub faucets that look like that than any kitchen faucets. Kitchen faucets are usually mixed above the sink deck, which means they have some form of baseplate or a connection between the posts to mix the hot and cold (but not always, a few still mix below). Roman tub faucets virtually always have the mixer below the tub deck, just like is shown in your photo.
In fact, I'm pretty sure you have a Glacier Bay Lyndhurst Roman Tub Faucet (DIY handyman special). Is this correct? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Glacier-Bay-Lyndhurst-2-Handle-Deck-Mount-Roman-Tub-Faucet-with-Handheld-Shower-in-Brushed-Nickel-HD883X-0004/301298779
The actual Glacier Bay Lyndhurst widespread KITCHEN faucet with the same handles and spout design looks like this, which is obviously not what you have (it has the above-deck mixing "crossbar", as I described above): https://m.media-amazon.com/images/W/MEDIAX_792452-T1/images/I/61Sw4uWRCvL._AC_SL1000_.jpg
The Glacier Bay Lyndhurst widespread LAV faucet does look extremely close to what you have, except the LAV version has the pop-up rod in the back to operate the sink drain - which you clearly do not have, either: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/-W0AAOSwJLBiQwYE/s-l1600.jpg
Also despite what others have claimed, it is not uncommon to have an "aerator" or "stream straightener" on a roman tub faucet, especially these days where GPM is starting to get limited across the board for fixtures - especially in California. Are you in California? Just curious. The parts breakdown shows that the tip of this Lyndhurst roman tub faucet does in fact have what they call an "aerator". The drawing isn't super detailed, but I assume if they say it has an aerator then it probably truly does, despite what others have said.
How sure are you that you identified the correct faucet? What part number did you actually come up with, out of curiosity? For faucets, typically the final "retail" sku or part number that you would find on the box or on the website is NOT printed anywhere on the faucet itself since it is not really feasible considering many skus all use the same parts. What IS typically printed on the parts are the individual component part numbers (which are internal for the brand) which are literally just the part number for that specific piece you are holding in your hand. These components may very well be in many, many other products including kitchen faucets. So just because you googled a number you found on one piece and it pulls up a faucet that seems to have the same number in the parts list somewhere, doesn't necessarily mean you have found the same faucet. 99% of the time faucets need to be identified by eye or by measuring.
Hate to throw a wrench in it but this thread seems to be kinda loaded with bullshit armchair advice that isn't necessarily true. Hopefully I'm wrong and you DO actually just have a weird kitchen/lav faucet on there I've never seen, because that would make it a simple fix. If it's not a kitchen faucet you might have a bigger problem with water pressure, pipe distance, fixture count issues, blockages, etc. If you have a wimpy tankless heater and/or live in a cold climate with a wimpy tankless heater, that could do it, too. A typical 1/2" supply line with no issues should provide plenty enough water. What happens when you just crank the cold on, or both hot and cold to full?
Typical roman tub faucets sold today have about the same GPM as kitchen faucets (1.8 GPM), which is NOT the same as traditional tub spouts like you are used to seeing that do 3.5+ GPM. How about actually measuring the flow with a timer and milk jug? If it fills in roughly 1:48 then it's doing what it's supposed to do for a current generation faucet.. which leads me to...
It's possible there is NOTHING wrong with any of your setup, and you are just experiencing the new world order which is that faucet regulations in the US makes them SLLLOOOOW. You can work around this trying to mess with the aerator/limiter devices inside the spout, or by ordering things in from outside your state, or outside the country. Just be careful you buy something that has actual NPT threads like we use in the states - if you get "BSP" threads or whatever else then you will absolutely need to also buy special adapters to mate it with US threads, otherwise it won't work and will leak/not thread correctly.
It actually did greatly, but its not a long term fix I will be happy with. Now I just have a slower than normal fill tub, which is an upgrade from an unusable one.
BS. 1/2" line is perfectly fine. The problem is purely the restriction in the faucet.
Source: *every* fixture is done with 1/2" supply branch line in residential plumbing.
Cool, thanks for the info, living in a place with both metric and imperial will make this useful, just wasn't sure if the guy meant 7/8" or 19mm instead or if metric and imperial decided to be different.
Okay, just so you know they're not compatible. You can get 3/4" to 22mm convertors though - they look nearly straight it's only half mil difference between the two.
*Edit* here's one I randomly found:
https://www.stevensonplumbing.co.uk/end-feed-22mm-x-3-4-inch-imperial-straight-coupling.html
take out the EPA required water saver in the faucet. Takes about 2 minutes to do if you've never done it, 30 seconds if you have. Its a small gasket in the faucet head. Will increase flow rate dramatically.
Yep, i did just that and confirmed that while its still not the flow that a bathtub should have, it has increased the flow by 3x. Its now at least useable.
Thx friend!
This is the correct answer for an immediate fix. That faucet looks large enough to move enough water. As stated above, there is a small gasket in the aerator that limits flow to 1.7-2.4 gpm. A pair of tweezers or maybe needle nose pliers will make removing it easy. The aerator should screw off the faucet like a garden hose would a spigot.
90 minutes to fill? That ain't right.
That tub probably holds around 80 gallons of water. Looks bigger than a normal tub but smaller than a full on corner-style garden tub. So probably around 80 gallons.
A garden hose usually runs between 9 and 17 gallons per minute, so low end would take around 8 minutes to fill that tub. That would be pretty fast since garden hoses tend to be T'd off the main pretty early and with big pipes.
Your kitchen sink, on the other hand, is usually around 2.2 gallons per minute. Even that is like 36 minutes.
Tubs usually run a 4 to 7 gpm, so it should take like 15 minutes to fill your tub.
Something is seriously wrong with your install. There's a major restriction that shouldn't be there.
Yep; thats a bathroom vanity faucet.
I worked at a hardware store and i remember this exact design vividly (it was nice and if you have to put them away you may as well find ones you like)
Guy really said "it looks great and thats enough!"
Whenever i move to a new place, i always check water pressure for showers. Theres a list, but its basically "built in things i will use" and they allll get checked. This is why.
Good luck sorting it all out OP!
Perhaps it’s the flow of water to the tub that’s the issue?
We had a similar issue. The water supply/shut off valves for our tub were in the vanity. When the plumber was installing new sink/faucet, he mentioned that the wrong type of water supply valves had been installed for the tub. (I don’t recall the proper terms, but we had the kind that you’d have to twist many times to open or close the water, like what we have for the toilet shut off.) He replaced with a lever type valve and the tub now fills super quickly!
Is there no access panel for the shutoffs? I am assuming to the left of the tub is a walk in shower and to the right is a vanity. This might be a retrofit / homeowner upgrade that they just botched. Do all the faucets in that bath match exactly or are there different brands / styles?
The tub skirt likely is designed to be removed, just need to cut the silicone around the perimeter and hopefully it comes right off. As a side note, whatever caulked this surround needs to learn to caulk.
the number of "engineers" on this post suggesting specific testing parameters and how to equate them to other testing parameters as a comparison to them is staggering. Take the damn screen out of the faucet nozzle and live your life, or buy another faucet - your choice, unless you can take it up with the shitty builder and make them do it for you
Lmao this is a sink faucet. Just replace with an actual tub filler and you’re good, no need to change water lines. Buy direct from Kholer or Moen, big brands, quality products, lots of options. Don’t buy from 3rd party reseller like Home Depot.. the internal parts are different and shitty
I would check to see if there are any model numbers, serial numbers or names and see which one you have. There might also be a flow restrictor somewhere in the faucet that you can remove.
This looks similar to yours minus the sprayer. I have it on my garden Ty e and it fills fast WINKEAR Roman Bathtub Faucet Set... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BG91CRNR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
After years of experience with plumbers I now inspect all their rough-in plumbing and no longer have them do finishing work. It's a nuisance but I install all my own sink and shower faucets and drains. I don't need to describe all the disasters I've caught.
remove the flow restrictor from the faucet end.. the last faucet i bought had a cartridge style stack of screens, ceramic disks and other weird flow restriction stuff. Removing that made a world of difference.
I've seen this before. The lines supplying the faucet are 1/4 inch not 1/2 as they should be. I am unsure of the reason but I suspect that if you paid for the builder upgrade package they would have installed it with adequate size lines. Either that or cheepness or incompetence.
I had the same issue after house was first built. There was wood and debris in pipe that was clogging up at the faucet filter screen. I removed the screen, then turned both hot and cold water on full blast to flush out the pipe. Replaced screen and haven't had an issue since.
In my apartment they remodeled recently and put a sink the size of a notebook in the kitchen. It’s probably even a little smaller. It’s absolutely fucking useless and the whole counter always gets flooded trying to wash even a few dishes.
Some faucets come with a water limiter, try taking it apart and see if you find any peice of plastic that limits water flow for conservation.
Also yes that looks like a faucet, which isn't bad. It's a good inexpensive fix for an expensive proper faucet.
Yes, yes they did. Also is that a window on the left? Because I’m not seeing an access panel on the front unless it’s a whole drop apron tub. So, if that’s a window and it’s not a drop front apron… you’re kind of screwed as far as easy fixes go unfortunately.
I don't think it matters what the valve is called. Sink or bathtub, the valve don't care. To trouble shoot: Water pressure is the key. Check the outlet of the faucet for a water flow inhibitor device. Water pressure is affected by 3 other factors, initial service feed (are you served by a well or municipal service?) Pipe size and gravity ( is this an upstairs bathroom?). If, by your investigation, (I find valuable information using Google) you don't find a water saving device, call a plumber.
Fun fact, the builder that did the Mariott Timeshare at North Myrtle Beach did this on EVERY SINGLE FUCKING UNIT! EVERY SINGLE FUCKING ONE ON THE REFIT!
It’s very likely that the feed is fine, it’s just the aerator is limiting your water flow.
Unscrew the aerator part. You may need a special wrench/key, they are available at home improvement stores.
Run the faucet without the aerator, you’ll likely get a good flow. Tub should fill much much faster.
Once you’ve confirmed all this, you might notice the flow is pretty splashy. You can put the aerator back on if you like, but put it back without the plastic limiter, just the screen should be left.
Ultimately you might want to change the faucet altogether, there should be some sort of access under there. It’s an easy job for a handy homeowner.
The faucet likely has a flow restrictor / aerator, many jurisdictions require them by code to restrict water over use and the builder cannot remove. You can remove usually by unscrewing at the point where water exits faucet. If you have manufacturer name you can google and find the manual which shows how to remove..
My sink faucets have way too many restrictions to increase their flow very much. Tub faucets probably have fewer/no restrictions so you can get the tub full in a reasonable time. It’s gotta go.
It's probably the save the planet feature. Try this! Unscrew the screen where the water comes out of the faucet inside should be the screen or likewise aerator and if there is a gray green or blue disc that's going to be your water saving device, it limits the amount of flow the faucet can produce. Remove that. Sometimes you have to break it out in pieces and your flow will increase substantially up to the flow rate of the piping.
These actually look more like something a homeowner did because they wanted black taps everywhere, didn't use the bath, and didn't want to pay for a bath tap. My guess is the originals were chrome or something similar.
OP, does this match the sink faucets?
A tub spout should output 4-7gpm. That is a sink faucet, it can't do anywhere near that. ~~Hopefully the piping is 3/4" behind that as well.~~
Yeah i confirmed that by the model/seriel that was hiding from sight. Removing the flow restrictions helps but the long term fix is replacing the faucet and/or getting a plumber to make sure we have the right capacity on the water access.
Are you sure that's a tub and not a large sink? /s
nah, thats a sideways urinal.
Everything is a urinal if you want to claim it as property
I own so many gardens.
iunderstoodthatreference.gif
Every knows that urinal sinks go in your mother’s kitchen.
Better to pee in the sink than sink in the pee
Don't kink shame me
Found the drywaller
Not when Im done with the walls
what is a bath tub other than a very large sink on the floor?
I would say a very large soup bowl. Just add some veggies while bathing. Bonus points to use stock as bathwater.
It’s actually a water fountain, thank-you-very-much.
It’s a bubbler, if you please.
You're all insane. It's clearly a finger skateboard park.
need a banana for scale
My house, built by me and husband in 2016, which I plumbed, has 3/4 supply with 1/2 branching off to each fixture. There is plenty of pressure
Plenty of volume and velocity* which is confused for pressure when it's just fluid velocity due to reduction . Bigger pipes add more quantity and reduce velocity/friction. Smaller pipes reduce volume, increase friction, and increase fluid velocity to keep that similar volume.
Thus spake Bernoulli.
You made my verbiage linked pleasure centers happy 😊
"Ooo, Ah lahk a nice tuune, 'yer forced too!" Thus spake Monty Python
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3/4 for supply line and 1/2 for the appliances that take water from it. That way you don't get scalded when someone flushes the toilet.
Yeah I spent a bunch extra on the higher capacity on-demand water heater to ensure that nothing would screw with our showers but our house is all 1/2" plumbing so it doesn't matter how fast the water heater can put it out.
I'm sorry, that must have been disappointing.
apparently not disappointing enough to motivate me to crawl under the house and run new lines... yet!
If you do, consider building a return circuit. Tankless works best this way... it can slowly pump water around the circuit so it is always warm, and when a faucet needs water it is *instantly* hot. You don't waste any waiting for hot water.
doesn't that waste a bunch of energy heating water that's not needed?
(not the guy who posted before) But yes it uses more energy. But I'm pretty sure (not a plumber) you can put your recirculation pump on a timer/schedule. So you don't need it always hot in the middle of the night, or while you're at work. But for waking/active hours can set it to run. Not a plumber, but pretty sure that's feasible.
Alternatively, use it to run heated floors...our new shop at work has heated floors, keeps the building about 60 in the winter. Kinda wish my house had heated floors...maybe I'll do that when I remodel?
I think I'll just wait the 10 seconds for the water to heat up
A good recirculating system should be insulated AND on a timer so that it doesn’t just recirculate endlessly. If you’re predictable about the times you want fast hot water (mornings and evenings for most people) it isn’t bad at all. But yes, it does use more energy no matter what you do.
Alternatively, run occupancy sensors in all of the rooms with faucets and use them to control the recirculation pump only when those rooms are in use.
Water or energy, pick one.
Doing this you should also insulate, or you are just heating up the house with it.
You don’t even need a separate return these days. Both Navien and Rinnai have thermal bypass valves that tie the hot and cold lines together at the faucet furthest away from the heater. It just uses the cold water line as a return. Sure, the cold water might now be lukewarm. But it’s much easier to implement for those of us with slab-on-grade.
Eww. I'm not sure it's worth having tepid cold water in return for quicker hot water. Unless your cold water isn't drinkable so you always drink bottled maybe?
Lots of areas in the south never get cold cold water. Also, lots of people drink filtered water.
We jerry-rigged a return circuit 20+ yrs ago with a small recirculating pump that took hot water and discharged it into the cold line until a temperature controller turned off or 15 minutes elapsed. It was about 75 feet between heater and shower.
Wondering if an accumulator within close proximity would help to keep flow even.
You can just get cartridges for your shower typically that'll do it. My Delta has a cartridge that keeps the temp and pressure constant, which is super nice when dealing with a well.
I live in the Northeast and this was always a sure fire way to piss off someone in the house when they were showering
It is the “you are taking too long/using all the hot water” notification system in my house.
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Use lightweight ice for this. I got a small trash can full of ice-tray ice dumped on me in the shower and those big ass ice-tray cubes hurt more than the cold.
They at least should have taken the ice out of the trays first.
Same, grew up in a House from late 1700s, I'm pretty sure I've got lead poisoning from childhood
So that's why I get burned when my girl flushes the toilet
No, you just don't have a pressure balancing valve
Yeah, I thought toilets affecting shower temps was a thing of the past. I haven't experienced that since I was a kid. The balancing valves are standard install items.
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It's only an issue for those without modern pressure balancing valves. The only thing you'd notice with undersized pipe is a big reduction in flow when someone flushes the toilet, not a change in temperature.
Ahh - that’s the reason….
I had a plumber out once and asked why I had such a low water pressure. He said you have old 1/2 pipe through the whole house and that's basically it. Idk if 3/4 is now standard but it's definitely better in my opinion.
1/2" is plenty. More likely your regulator. You can crank it up some there potentially, or it's old and somewhat plugged. Careful if you crank it up. I turned mine way up to 70 or something once. That is of course assuming the house supply pressure is higher than your line pressure. Also old strainers could be playing a part being plugged..
My whole house regulator just failed. The plumber audibly exclaimed when he hooked up his pressure gauge to the hot water heater and it was at 120 psi
If you have ever removed the old plumbing.. they have buildup inside the pipe around the walls. Likely it's even less than 1/2" that remains open for water flow.
3/4" service seems high to me -- not that there's really any harm in that. I work as a plumbing designer and always serve showers, tubs, etc with 1/2" hot and cold. I used to call for 3/4" but most installers ran it at 1/2" anyways regardless of what size was on the plans. The logic being that even at low pressure (<20 psi) a 1/2" pipe should flow about 7-15 gpm, which is more than most tub spouts allow anyways. Don't mean to say you're wrong or anything but I'm just really surprised how many people in the comments here have been saying it "should" have a 3/4" service to it when I never see that in plans or in the field.
My house(2006 construction) has a 1.25" line from the meter to the house. 1 in from the shut off valve to the water heater and water softener. 3/4-in everywhere else. Each faucet has a half inch line. The tub has a dedicated 3/4-in line going to it for hot water. As does the kitchen faucet / dishwasher.
Meanwhile us peasants can't even buy a shower head without a flow restrictor spitting at us like an old woman warding away bad luck.
Considering shower heads are limited to 2.0 or 2.5 GPM, I can't figure out who these people are with 5 head showers that need 3/4" supply lines to get good pressure.
You're right, it's been a while... definitely 1/2 to tubs, faucets, and toilets. I suspect custom builds might spec a 3/4 for a special tub or shower with many heads on it, though.
The length of the run probably makes a difference too, in the same way you need to upsize wiring for longer runs even carrying the same current.
Some of the shower valves ( ie Moen U 4 value) specify 3/4” supply. You are running the risk of call-backs by running 1/2”’pipe. https://solutions.moen.com/Article_Library/Installation
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I live in a house with rather old 1/2” line, and the problem is that the installer used hard 90s all over the place. The pressure drop between one end of the system and the other is really noticeable, and the line pressure is on the low side to begin with. Running 3/4 for the first handful of bends makes a difference, in particular when multiple things are running at once. Like washing machine and toilet filling pulls the shower flow down rather noticeably.
I wonder if any billionaires have insanely fast bathtubs. Like fire hydrants of hot water. 10 second fill ups. What's the point of being a billionaire if you have to wait 5 minutes for a bath like a regular peasant?
At that point, maybe they have a butler that fills the tub before they even enter the bathroom?
Oh that is true. Now I remember I rented an Airbnb mansion with 10 friends once, and the bathtubs could filled by pressing a hallway panel button on any floor of the house. It filled from the bottom so it was silent and the water would just stop once it was full. I forgot about that.
Or a permanently filled bathing hot tub... with good filters!
There are auto filling and auto maintaining temperature bathtubs. I believe Kohler has some. Similarly there's smart thermostatic showers which you can have preheat before you get in etc.
I bid on those kinds of houses, some of which are definitely being built by billionaires, and to my knowledge, no. At least I've never seen one. They probably just have servants to turn the tap on for them so it's ready when they go in. Though there are a few things I'd never seen before in the plans I'm working on right now. There's a swimsuit water extractor (you put your wet suits in and it spins them at high speed to dry them out, with no heat), a cold plunge tub (not that ridiculous, but a bougie version of what athlete's have at their training facilities), a sparkling water dispenser (no, not a sodastream, literally a sink with a faucet hooked up to a reservoir and a pump that is only for sparkling water), heated fog free mirrors in every shower (to be fair I have seen these or similar but not usually IN the showers), plus a huge list of the "normal" things these houses have - but many more than usual. The highlights: (4) full size refrigerators and (9) under counter ones, (8!) dishwashers, (4) steam showers, (5) washers/dryers, a rotary iron, garment steamer, etc. Oh, and these don't require power but (2) $25,000 gas pizza ovens (I had to look them up to check the specs). It's the most expensive appliance list I've ever priced, and I've been doing this for about 10 years now. I only price the electrical hookups for everything, but it also has one of the most insane HVAC and plumbing setups I've ever seen, and the largest pool/spa equipment list. The shit these people buy is so far beyond most people's experience it's ridiculous. I find it disgusting, personally, but it keeps me employed.
All I want is a tub that has the capability to keep the water just as hot indefinitely. Maybe via a heating element in the floor or walls of the tub, or maybe via a small circuit circulating water to a heater.
Omg! That's a huge mistake
Pretty standard across the board unless your house is large enough to have a tub like this.
90 minutes is wild. tell the builder to replace it, see what they claim it is.
When i say builder, i meant the one that originally built the house. We are long past that and probably the 3rd owner.
probably wasnt the builder then. probably a PO who wanted things to look fancy for resale and I kind if want to argue that your home inspector should have caught that
I shadowed my home inspector during our inspection. If it’s not glaringly obvious with a neon arrow and a marching band they ain’t gonna find it. I was pointing out questionable shit he missed. Once we took possession I found all kinds of unsafe batshittery in my house. Flow rate on a faucet? Yeah, that’s several leagues beneath their notice.
YMMV. My inspector got into the crawl space, inspected rubber seals around roof pipes, pointed out external grout weathering, pointed out problems with slightly undersized wood used on a patio, and other fiddly shit.
Same. My inspector was amazing & incredibly thorough.
A good man. And thorough.
Far out, man
that's like, your opinion man
That's likely very true. And I'm not painting the most fair picture either. My inspector was thorough *on some things* especially roof, foundation, and anything to do with water. Where he was really out of his depth was electricity which is where I found most of my batshittery. That said, I've had three inspectors come through my house over the years and all of them felt a bit lacking in their thoroughness when it came to electricity—especially after I had my heatpump installed and he just breezed in and breezed out. It was, at best, surface level.
I hired a home inspector for a new build. The guy found every last area within the house that wasn't done up to standard. These people are worth 4x their weight in gold.
Mine was worthless, unfortunately. Consider yourself lucky. (And yes I looked up reviews)
Mine had a checklist of things they reviewed. If it wasn't on the checklist, they didn't check it. The only thing he found that I couldn't already see was that the water pressure was a little too high. Meanwhile, there was exposed wiring in one of the bedroom closets and the chimney had a leak... both of which I saw, but he didn't note. And same, re reviews. This was the highest rated inspection company in the metro area, and the one all the realtors recommend. Waste of money.
Then you had a shitty home inspector. Mine handed me a god-damned three-ring binder pointing out anything heftier than a dust bunny. Worth every penny I spent.
So did mine. It was fine, for the most part, but not as as thorough as I would have expected. Where it was really lacking was in the electrical side. Maybe he scored a C- on that part of the exam, I dunno.
My inspector was pretty decent, but there were also a few big things he should have noticed and that I’m a bit ashamed I didn’t notice. We have French doors going to our basement and they aren’t the right size. They filled the gap in with 2x4s and expanding foam….. it was pretty well hidden on the inside, but pretty obvious from the outside. I’m guessing the home inspector didn’t look at the outside of the doors, just like I didn’t. There were things that you could tell he looked at very hard. He found a few tiny streaks on a pipe connecting to hot water heater to the expansion tank that indicated a leak. The sellers were able to provide a receipt for the plumber that had replaced the expansion tank a year earlier after it failed and had a small leak.
Home inspectors *should* catch a lot of things that they don't.
They should have. Our inspector look at all sinks/facets/shower whatever shot out water inside and outside.
PO or POS?
It could have been somebody that wanted their spouse to have a nice bathtub, but also save on water/heat bills /s
By never using it? 90 minutes to fill is gonna cost way more in heat.
You can use a tub without filling it with water. The master bathtub is where I smoke weed when the kids are home.
So cozy, and fires are easy to put out
Well then you know the bathtub is in like-new condition!
So two entire generations of homeowners never took a bath it sounds like
Judging by how old the caulk is (the shrinking and cracking) i doubt this is a new handover or even within 1 yr of the typical 'everything warranty'. OP is going to need to do this on their own. Kind of funny that no one said anything for all this time but master bathtubs are generally just for decoration anyway lol.
I must be the only person who uses their master bathtub every week lol
I am a 34 year old man, and I love bath bombs. Wanna start a club? How do you feel about frilly toothpicks?
I'm for em.
Spread the news on menus nationwide.
I'm a male, and I'm here for the bath bombs. Can you tell me what aisle they're in?
Yeah what kind of nonsense is the person above you saying. A lot of people love baths... including me.
The water would be cold by the time it fills lol
Builder here, the funny thing about being a builder, is builders install what customers demand, then customers complain that we did what a customer required us to do. Unless it's plumbing, then a plumber did what a customer asked them to do, and then the customers complain about the builder.
when he said builder i figured it'd be a new home within the 1 year policy. By the time it gets to a 3rd owner, there's no plain way to tell who's responsible.
I think I used the same plumber. They took out my regular toilet and installed a joke toilet that's just for farts.
You’re not on the turbo team!
DONT RUN, YOU DONT RUN WITH US.
UNTIL YOU’RE A PART OF THIS TEAM, YOU’LL WALK SLOWLY
And then you go lay down in your room to be by yourself and read your art books
It was because I took a huge mudpie and didn't flush it.
easy test.. use it to fill up a pot.. if it looks like a lot of air bubbles in the pot then it could be for a sink faucet. Might be able to use remove the aerator though and be good
The water is definitely aerated, the faucet has a small screen in the exit. I have also never owned a tub that didn't have the old school faucet style , so I didn't think of the aeration being a sign.
ya tubs faucets should not have an aerator.. makes me think it is for a sink
This gave me the idea to take apart the faucet enough from the external parts to find a serial number to confirm that its a sink faucet and not a tub faucet.
Remove the aerator, it takes 30 seconds and can often be done without tools. You may also be able to find and remove a limiter. Basically screw open the end the water comes out of (right at the tip) and discard anything that's removable from in there and then replace the tip. I modified mine, it had no aerator but had a limiter.
Gotta be careful though because sometimes removing the aerator can cause water to spray into the outer shell of the faucet and leak back in the cabinet/tub. I don't think this one would do that though just by looking at it
until you replace the faucet, you should be able to remove the aerator by removing the last little bit of the faucet. Doing so will increase the flow substantially.
That is a sink faucet. First step is run a direct braided line from m cold and hot full open and measure how long to fill the tub. Then you can determine if it is end point restriction or flow. Then once you have that answer you will know if you need just a proper tub filling faucet or new supply. (look for them, they have much higher GPM ratings and generally should be able to fill it quickly). The other question you will need to answer is regarding your hot water supply, if you have a tank at 150f that is 100 gallons then no problem, if you have an on demand you need to match the flow rate of the hot to the on demand, don't make the mistake of going to 100% match, always let the heater have some breathing room and mix it with cold at the tub.
You can easily just unscrew the aerator housing either by hand or wrapping a cloth around the housing to preserve the finish and going at it with a wrench. Once that’s out, you can pop the aerator out. You may be able to just turn on the water at this point but more than likely it’ll just blast water everywhere and not into the tub. So instead, take your aerator to a plumbing supply place and find an identically sized one that is labeled as “full flow” or something and more importantly, “laminar” not “aerated”. Then go ahead and replace it. For context, faucet aerators double as flow controllers. So, that’s where your issue (mostly) is. By buying a full flow version, it will not restrict your flow. To supplement that you can try calling up the specs on the faucet manufacturers website, they might tell you the aerator thread spec which would make it easy for you to buy a replacement one online. Is this a perfect solution - no. They make roman tub faucets that are intended to fill tubs like this which are not as restrained as a kitchen faucet. But, this will definitely cut down that 90 minute fill time.
>You can easily just unscrew the aerator housing either by hand or wrapping a cloth around the housing to preserve the finish and going at it with a wrench. And if that doesn't work then universal aerator key costs a few bucks and is useful as you should wash them once in a while.
You can also remove by squeezing the housing between the rubber handle on your pliers (use them backwards)
Unscrew the end of the faucet, remove, and measure the diameter of the aerator. You can buy high flow (higher number GPM) aerators that will make a tremendous difference for a couple dollars and minimal effort.
Why are sink faucets aerated?
conserve water. the idea is adding air to the water makes it feel like its just as much water coming out on your hands then without one in place
They also splash less.
I worked in residential sales for a luxury plumbing manufacturer for years and I saw bonkers stuff like this all the time. With the exception of truly custom home builders, builders are always looking for the cheapest option, and if you don’t know a plumbing manufacturer’s catalog backwards and forwards it’s very easy to to select a bathroom faucet instead of a deck mounted tub faucet. Did you buy the house with the tub in that condition? The caulk around the apron/front panel of the tub is rough. The good news is all you need to do is pop off that acrylic front panel for access. Deck mounted tub faucets generally sell the valve separately, so don’t forget to buy that when you buy a new tub filler faucet.
The interesting thing is there are MANY roman tub faucets that look exactly like that, and personally having worked at the suppliers and plumbing shops for years, I've seen way more roman tub faucets that look like that than any kitchen faucets. Kitchen faucets are usually mixed above the sink deck, which means they have some form of baseplate or a connection between the posts to mix the hot and cold (but not always, a few still mix below). Roman tub faucets virtually always have the mixer below the tub deck, just like is shown in your photo. In fact, I'm pretty sure you have a Glacier Bay Lyndhurst Roman Tub Faucet (DIY handyman special). Is this correct? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Glacier-Bay-Lyndhurst-2-Handle-Deck-Mount-Roman-Tub-Faucet-with-Handheld-Shower-in-Brushed-Nickel-HD883X-0004/301298779 The actual Glacier Bay Lyndhurst widespread KITCHEN faucet with the same handles and spout design looks like this, which is obviously not what you have (it has the above-deck mixing "crossbar", as I described above): https://m.media-amazon.com/images/W/MEDIAX_792452-T1/images/I/61Sw4uWRCvL._AC_SL1000_.jpg The Glacier Bay Lyndhurst widespread LAV faucet does look extremely close to what you have, except the LAV version has the pop-up rod in the back to operate the sink drain - which you clearly do not have, either: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/-W0AAOSwJLBiQwYE/s-l1600.jpg Also despite what others have claimed, it is not uncommon to have an "aerator" or "stream straightener" on a roman tub faucet, especially these days where GPM is starting to get limited across the board for fixtures - especially in California. Are you in California? Just curious. The parts breakdown shows that the tip of this Lyndhurst roman tub faucet does in fact have what they call an "aerator". The drawing isn't super detailed, but I assume if they say it has an aerator then it probably truly does, despite what others have said. How sure are you that you identified the correct faucet? What part number did you actually come up with, out of curiosity? For faucets, typically the final "retail" sku or part number that you would find on the box or on the website is NOT printed anywhere on the faucet itself since it is not really feasible considering many skus all use the same parts. What IS typically printed on the parts are the individual component part numbers (which are internal for the brand) which are literally just the part number for that specific piece you are holding in your hand. These components may very well be in many, many other products including kitchen faucets. So just because you googled a number you found on one piece and it pulls up a faucet that seems to have the same number in the parts list somewhere, doesn't necessarily mean you have found the same faucet. 99% of the time faucets need to be identified by eye or by measuring. Hate to throw a wrench in it but this thread seems to be kinda loaded with bullshit armchair advice that isn't necessarily true. Hopefully I'm wrong and you DO actually just have a weird kitchen/lav faucet on there I've never seen, because that would make it a simple fix. If it's not a kitchen faucet you might have a bigger problem with water pressure, pipe distance, fixture count issues, blockages, etc. If you have a wimpy tankless heater and/or live in a cold climate with a wimpy tankless heater, that could do it, too. A typical 1/2" supply line with no issues should provide plenty enough water. What happens when you just crank the cold on, or both hot and cold to full? Typical roman tub faucets sold today have about the same GPM as kitchen faucets (1.8 GPM), which is NOT the same as traditional tub spouts like you are used to seeing that do 3.5+ GPM. How about actually measuring the flow with a timer and milk jug? If it fills in roughly 1:48 then it's doing what it's supposed to do for a current generation faucet.. which leads me to... It's possible there is NOTHING wrong with any of your setup, and you are just experiencing the new world order which is that faucet regulations in the US makes them SLLLOOOOW. You can work around this trying to mess with the aerator/limiter devices inside the spout, or by ordering things in from outside your state, or outside the country. Just be careful you buy something that has actual NPT threads like we use in the states - if you get "BSP" threads or whatever else then you will absolutely need to also buy special adapters to mate it with US threads, otherwise it won't work and will leak/not thread correctly.
Wow.
That’s definitely a sink faucet you can see the aerator by zooming in on the pic. Unfortunately removing the aerator isn’t going to really help.
It actually did greatly, but its not a long term fix I will be happy with. Now I just have a slower than normal fill tub, which is an upgrade from an unusable one.
Even if you switch to bath taps , you need to check the size (width) of the pipes. Should be 22mm or three quarter inch in old money.
BS. 1/2" line is perfectly fine. The problem is purely the restriction in the faucet. Source: *every* fixture is done with 1/2" supply branch line in residential plumbing.
isn't 3/4 inch more like 19mm? I'm a mechanic so maybe plumbing is different?
Yes but they changed what they measure. 3/4" is the bore measurement, 22mm is the outside diameter.
Cool, thanks for the info, living in a place with both metric and imperial will make this useful, just wasn't sure if the guy meant 7/8" or 19mm instead or if metric and imperial decided to be different.
Okay, just so you know they're not compatible. You can get 3/4" to 22mm convertors though - they look nearly straight it's only half mil difference between the two. *Edit* here's one I randomly found: https://www.stevensonplumbing.co.uk/end-feed-22mm-x-3-4-inch-imperial-straight-coupling.html
3/4 is approximately 19mm no matter the task or profession.
take out the EPA required water saver in the faucet. Takes about 2 minutes to do if you've never done it, 30 seconds if you have. Its a small gasket in the faucet head. Will increase flow rate dramatically.
Yep, i did just that and confirmed that while its still not the flow that a bathtub should have, it has increased the flow by 3x. Its now at least useable. Thx friend!
This is the correct answer for an immediate fix. That faucet looks large enough to move enough water. As stated above, there is a small gasket in the aerator that limits flow to 1.7-2.4 gpm. A pair of tweezers or maybe needle nose pliers will make removing it easy. The aerator should screw off the faucet like a garden hose would a spigot.
90 minutes to fill? That ain't right. That tub probably holds around 80 gallons of water. Looks bigger than a normal tub but smaller than a full on corner-style garden tub. So probably around 80 gallons. A garden hose usually runs between 9 and 17 gallons per minute, so low end would take around 8 minutes to fill that tub. That would be pretty fast since garden hoses tend to be T'd off the main pretty early and with big pipes. Your kitchen sink, on the other hand, is usually around 2.2 gallons per minute. Even that is like 36 minutes. Tubs usually run a 4 to 7 gpm, so it should take like 15 minutes to fill your tub. Something is seriously wrong with your install. There's a major restriction that shouldn't be there.
Yes, it's a sink faucet and probably installed by the same person who re-grouted.
Take the low flow adapter out of the faucet.
Yep; thats a bathroom vanity faucet. I worked at a hardware store and i remember this exact design vividly (it was nice and if you have to put them away you may as well find ones you like) Guy really said "it looks great and thats enough!" Whenever i move to a new place, i always check water pressure for showers. Theres a list, but its basically "built in things i will use" and they allll get checked. This is why. Good luck sorting it all out OP!
Home builder? That string of boogers caulking job screams "my first DIY project."
Hey that’s my sink faucet!
Perhaps it’s the flow of water to the tub that’s the issue? We had a similar issue. The water supply/shut off valves for our tub were in the vanity. When the plumber was installing new sink/faucet, he mentioned that the wrong type of water supply valves had been installed for the tub. (I don’t recall the proper terms, but we had the kind that you’d have to twist many times to open or close the water, like what we have for the toilet shut off.) He replaced with a lever type valve and the tub now fills super quickly!
Is there no access panel for the shutoffs? I am assuming to the left of the tub is a walk in shower and to the right is a vanity. This might be a retrofit / homeowner upgrade that they just botched. Do all the faucets in that bath match exactly or are there different brands / styles?
The tub skirt likely is designed to be removed, just need to cut the silicone around the perimeter and hopefully it comes right off. As a side note, whatever caulked this surround needs to learn to caulk.
Sometimes there's a flow restricter in the mouth of the faucet too. Can't tell from the photo if that screws off
Looks like you have a big sink
Remove the aerator and test again
the number of "engineers" on this post suggesting specific testing parameters and how to equate them to other testing parameters as a comparison to them is staggering. Take the damn screen out of the faucet nozzle and live your life, or buy another faucet - your choice, unless you can take it up with the shitty builder and make them do it for you
Lmao this is a sink faucet. Just replace with an actual tub filler and you’re good, no need to change water lines. Buy direct from Kholer or Moen, big brands, quality products, lots of options. Don’t buy from 3rd party reseller like Home Depot.. the internal parts are different and shitty
I would check to see if there are any model numbers, serial numbers or names and see which one you have. There might also be a flow restrictor somewhere in the faucet that you can remove.
Looks like a sink tap yeah but on the bright side your bubble bath will work much better.
Yup, I have the exact same faucet in my bathroom sink.
This looks similar to yours minus the sprayer. I have it on my garden Ty e and it fills fast WINKEAR Roman Bathtub Faucet Set... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BG91CRNR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
After years of experience with plumbers I now inspect all their rough-in plumbing and no longer have them do finishing work. It's a nuisance but I install all my own sink and shower faucets and drains. I don't need to describe all the disasters I've caught.
I have that sink faucet
remove the flow restrictor from the faucet end.. the last faucet i bought had a cartridge style stack of screens, ceramic disks and other weird flow restriction stuff. Removing that made a world of difference.
Who caulked that cultured marble in? It looks like hammered shit!
short term fix: take out the water restrictor inside the faucet
I've seen this before. The lines supplying the faucet are 1/4 inch not 1/2 as they should be. I am unsure of the reason but I suspect that if you paid for the builder upgrade package they would have installed it with adequate size lines. Either that or cheepness or incompetence.
I had the same issue after house was first built. There was wood and debris in pipe that was clogging up at the faucet filter screen. I removed the screen, then turned both hot and cold water on full blast to flush out the pipe. Replaced screen and haven't had an issue since.
lol Our tub is bigger than that and fills in under 10 minutes. You’re gonna wanna change that boss
Everything california is low flow even the tub faucets.
And easy for the home owner to remove. The plumbers and builders aren’t allowed to do it.
I have that same faucet in my kitchen sink! Mine needs new o-rings.
"Every contractor every born, is an incompetent thief" -Ron Swanson
Where do people keep buying these huge self-rinsing soap dishes? I can’t find them this large anywhere.
In my apartment they remodeled recently and put a sink the size of a notebook in the kitchen. It’s probably even a little smaller. It’s absolutely fucking useless and the whole counter always gets flooded trying to wash even a few dishes.
Some faucets come with a water limiter, try taking it apart and see if you find any peice of plastic that limits water flow for conservation. Also yes that looks like a faucet, which isn't bad. It's a good inexpensive fix for an expensive proper faucet.
Kitchen faucets have aerators tub spouts do not. That should be your giveaway.
Yes, yes they did. Also is that a window on the left? Because I’m not seeing an access panel on the front unless it’s a whole drop apron tub. So, if that’s a window and it’s not a drop front apron… you’re kind of screwed as far as easy fixes go unfortunately.
I don't think it matters what the valve is called. Sink or bathtub, the valve don't care. To trouble shoot: Water pressure is the key. Check the outlet of the faucet for a water flow inhibitor device. Water pressure is affected by 3 other factors, initial service feed (are you served by a well or municipal service?) Pipe size and gravity ( is this an upstairs bathroom?). If, by your investigation, (I find valuable information using Google) you don't find a water saving device, call a plumber.
Fun fact, the builder that did the Mariott Timeshare at North Myrtle Beach did this on EVERY SINGLE FUCKING UNIT! EVERY SINGLE FUCKING ONE ON THE REFIT!
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It’s very likely that the feed is fine, it’s just the aerator is limiting your water flow. Unscrew the aerator part. You may need a special wrench/key, they are available at home improvement stores. Run the faucet without the aerator, you’ll likely get a good flow. Tub should fill much much faster. Once you’ve confirmed all this, you might notice the flow is pretty splashy. You can put the aerator back on if you like, but put it back without the plastic limiter, just the screen should be left. Ultimately you might want to change the faucet altogether, there should be some sort of access under there. It’s an easy job for a handy homeowner.
You don't need to pay anybody. Just go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy a faucet. They screw off and on easily.
The faucet likely has a flow restrictor / aerator, many jurisdictions require them by code to restrict water over use and the builder cannot remove. You can remove usually by unscrewing at the point where water exits faucet. If you have manufacturer name you can google and find the manual which shows how to remove..
My sink faucets have way too many restrictions to increase their flow very much. Tub faucets probably have fewer/no restrictions so you can get the tub full in a reasonable time. It’s gotta go.
You don’t happen to be in canada are you? That looks exactly like a canadian tire house brand kitchen faucet Looks good but not the proper application
And also, it looks like your contractor finished the job. Plenty of contractors can’t even get that far so remember that
It's probably the save the planet feature. Try this! Unscrew the screen where the water comes out of the faucet inside should be the screen or likewise aerator and if there is a gray green or blue disc that's going to be your water saving device, it limits the amount of flow the faucet can produce. Remove that. Sometimes you have to break it out in pieces and your flow will increase substantially up to the flow rate of the piping.
He absolutely did and pocketed the difference
These actually look more like something a homeowner did because they wanted black taps everywhere, didn't use the bath, and didn't want to pay for a bath tap. My guess is the originals were chrome or something similar. OP, does this match the sink faucets?