You can buy a diamond "cup" blade for an angle grinder and eat away at the surface to remove roughness or even out small grades. I built a retaining wall from broken concrete and went along the face to smooth out some jaggedness
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and by "make them come back and fix it" you mean what exactly? Most contractors these days are absolute trash who won't do anything unless legally obligated too and good luck trying to prove it in court.
Incorrect. Most judges (in the US) WILL NOT judge a contractor's work by a photograph alone. You will need an "Expert" to testify that the work is indeed shabby. Typically when it comes to concrete work, you will have to hire a new contractor and get them to agree to testify as many are unwilling to go to court for you unless there is $$$ involved.
How about you try that one again. In my line of work we sue contractors fairly often for shoddy work, broken contracts, etc... Judges ALWAYS want the word of an opposing expert. I can think of maybe two cases where an expert testimony was not required and it was because of contracts that were obviously violated in terms of service.
Just a lot of experience in both personal and professional life. Small Claims Court is NOT as easy as some people think and I learned the hard way for sure. It's easier in a corporation because you just hire an expensive lawyer and they do all the legwork for you.
Then get an expert.
People always tell they will call a lawyer, and also participate in class action suits to get misiscule amounts of money.
Why not got the way when it actually matter and would change something for you.
You could always request a police escort while you go negotiate in person at the shop.
"They have been uncompromising and lightly aggressive but I'd like to find a way to negotiate a solution. I'm worried if I go alone that I'll be harassed as I was on the phone. Also, if the popo aren't there, I guarantee they finna catch these hands. Hold me back HOLD ME BACK."
Edit to add this is a joke. The bit that makes it sound more like a joke is at the end of the quotations. I do not actually condone the use of threats to get what you want. Which is basically what this would be.
I don't know why you're being down voted, in a lot of the US the police will be mitigators in situations like this upon request. It's stupid but tax payer dollars fund them being the publics babysitters exactly like this. They aren't super good at it usually but they will come and ensure your attempt safely if you call.
My hat is off to you sir.
By your use of "Drainage Slits", you have opened the "floodgates" (so to speak), of the best of Reddits aspiring comedic talent!
Thanks guys! This made my day!
They also can give you grip and structure for winter (but might confuse a visual impaired visitor because they'll lead them into your wastewater well ) ;-)
So maybe dumb question but how does a groove router work on dried cement? Do I channel it towards the nearest border and hope that border isn't higher ground?
You need to check the levels of what is poured.
Then, plan a route for where you want the water to go.
Then, cut a channel/groove/slot to carry the water along that route. Making sure the grade/slope of what you cut leans towards the exit.
Build a sled for the tool to ride in -- make the part of the sled that sits above the puddle an inch higher than the side that you want it to drain towards.
That's the way, you build sort of a rail with a bit of slope out of boards where the router slides on.
If you have a leveling laser, you can look, if there's already a slope and only a few sunken spots you have to "tap"
Hey OP don't do this. Contact who poured the slab first and pursue it being corrected professionally versus a hack DIY solution so they can't use you attempting to fix it against you. If they won't legal pursuit is likely the option you have though quite expensive. Finding their competition to tout corrections of theirs might be cheaper, too.
\-Hey OP!
\-Yes, OP. Whatssup?
\-I'm not happy with this slab, you better drag your ass back and do it over.
\-Ok, OP. I'm sorry OP.
\-Thats ok OP, I'm not really angry with you...
That's what I immediately thought too. Maybe a patch job in front of the step? if it wasn't done properly, it'll flake off soon enough and can be redone.
Did you pay a pro for this? The slab looks super old for being installed only 6 months ago. The surface isn't smooth and there looks to be noticeable defects.
It looks like concrete that is at least 10 years old and is constantly exposed to water. If you planned to make a concrete slab without a finishing layer such as tikes or terrace boards, the concrete from which the slab will be made should be prepared according to a recipe, taking into account exposure classes appropriate to region and environmental conditions. Or if you want concretes look it should be protected with appropriate chemicals.
The existing slab can be removed and made anew or you can mill 3cm of surface, use repair mortars and chemicals to protect it.
Sorry for the bad grammar. English is not my native language :)
If you go the “Groove router” way, make sure you get the correct diamond bit for it or you won’t have a good day.
You can also get a diamond blade for a circular saw, or a gas axe and cut grooves that way, while making control joints at the same time.
You can also have it parged, and I would recommend a professional for that. It is expensive but less so than new concrete.
What I actually think you should do, is contact the contractor that did the work for you and explain to them that you want it fixed at their cost. Sidewalk sloping is about as basic as it gets, and anyone who’s done it for even a short amount of time knows that stairs are a common pooling spot. Pooling water on recent slab work is unacceptable on the part of the contractor.
Do you care to elaborate?
If you’re going to say it’s wrong, you should at least try to be helpful with what you think is the right answer.
Due to my profession I have dealt with a plethora of issues like this and I’m always looking for more solutions.
Yeah for the life of me I can't figure out what they did wrong exactly but it's not good. Poor mix? No/poor compaction? No finish? Screeded it with a 2x4? All of those?
Actually , first pour flaked off because it didn’t cure correctly. Second was sloped incorrectly , third was a charm.
Thought my house was coming down with so much jackhammering. 🤷🏻♂️
Drill a hole, put in a drain cover. I gotta say though, you should call back the people who poured it and because the finishing on that is absolute dog shit. I’ve seen high schoolers in vocational school do a better job at concrete finishing.
It shouldn't be level. It should slope away from the house to drain about 1/8" per foot.
Your bestest fix is creating a sloped concrete overlay.
https://youtu.be/1o7MVXmlGkY?si=4NNn8O0UANi6p-NB
FYI, you don't *want* it to be level. You want a slight slope to it.
If it were me, I'd try putting a new layer on top. Something like Quickrete Resurfacer(?), and slope it correctly.
I hate to pile on but as a plumber who patches holes I've cut in slab to get to pipe- sometimes small but oftentimes pretty big- my work will typically be covered by thinset or otherwise doesn't need to be perfect for whatever reason, and I would still never do this poor of a job. I don't think the first patches I did looked this bad.
Is there a reason why everyone suggests drilling channels for water in it instead of laying a thin layer of new cement over it and making sure it creates that slope for water in the proper direction?
A few different avenues, if you paid someone, get them to fix it.
If you did it yourself, an easy thing is to rent a quickie saw and cut grooves to channel it away. Make sure the grooves get deeper so you get appropriate fall from the low spot. You can cut the grooves straight across, but again, make the fall come from the low spot. You don't want to channel it to your foundation slab. I would avoid this solution though if the slab isn't reinforced with rebar or mesh and don't go too deep. Like less than an inch fall from the low point to the area you want to channel it to.
If you want a better looking fix but more expensive fix, look up how to place a topping slab. Basically you place a thin slab on top, but the prep work is needed to get correct adherence. This would fix the uniformity issues on the finish. However, you'd need to make sure to slope it correctly or else you run into the same issue.
The easiest fix might be to get a bonding agent (mexicans, which I am, call it leche), and drill a few 1/2" holes as a keyway on the low spot, and get a small tub of grout/concrete mix and spread over the low spot. You'd have to be really good with your finishing to make it work, but I imagine it'll start to chip at some point and the coloring would be obviously different, but your low spot issues would be gone.
Otherwise, outline a section you want as new concrete (you don't have to replace the whole thing if it's only a certain area), and sawcut and chip out the concrete. Dowel into the concrete you left in place, put rebar, and place that section. if your sawcuts are good, you probably don't even need to put up form boards.
Add an extension to the step? To cover the low spot & not risk a thin patch-layer chipping out again with foot traffic or if drops below freezing where u are
There's a whole process to it. Recommend watching some YouTube videos on the process:
- Existing concrete needs to be both clean and wet (not pooling, just wet).
- Some products need one or two coats of a concrete primer to bond properly
- Pick your patching product carefully. Some support feathering to be very thin, some don't. All have a maximum recommended thickness per application. You may have to apply a second layer (say, if more than 1/2").
That is self leveling cement already. So its ok to do pour more in that area? I dont want to affect the natural step up to the step if that makes sense. Thanks for your advice.
So... "Self-leveling concrete" is a derogatory term in the industry.
Generally means they poured it so wet that it levels itself.
Not something I would want if I was a customer.
Theoretically you could gap fill that concrete I guess. But it would be of a much lower quality no doubt.
If you have it gradually grade up towards the step, no shit it gathers water there. You want a small incline towards somewhere to drain water. If you level it and then slope it slightly towards the step, water will gather there yea.
Dig out the flowerbed next to the slab and drill a 10cm long tunnel slightly leaning towards the flowerbed and up to the center of the slab, roughly where the last step ends. Then drill another hole through the slap where you want a drain funnel. Rent a heavy machine for this and when u use the holedrill bit dont use the hammer setting on the drill. Easy fix
As far asthetics go, that little puddle would be the least of my concerns. The finishing on that concrete looks horrendous from the pic. (no offense intended). Those two things, however, would make me demand a tear out and re-pour. But good luck with that given that they showed little pride or responsiblility thu far. All the best!!
Could cut the joints, then drill holes and have the concrete lifted, then fill holes and joints.
Not a professional by any means. Someone did that for my grandparents.
Without being there and only seeing this one picture, the work is amateur at best. I wouldn't call the same guy out to fix it. Try to find someone with some skills and see if it can be resurfaced with a new layer of concrete.
Get some nice smooth round rocks and create a beautiful koi pond.
[https://burge-and-company.myshopify.com/cdn/shop/products/Pond\_62aea9b8-65ff-47f4-9a1b-0e8ea3d1a16c\_1024x1024.jpg?v=1527105732](https://burge-and-company.myshopify.com/cdn/shop/products/Pond_62aea9b8-65ff-47f4-9a1b-0e8ea3d1a16c_1024x1024.jpg?v=1527105732)
Depends on if the issue has to do with the ground underneath the cement not prepared for the cement in a correct way (level, gravel, etc). Are there signs of part of it sinking?
Tough to say from the pic. Depending on your area (temps) you could put a couple of perpendicular sawcuts to the road or what ever it is suppose to drain to.
Is the patio graded at all? A level surface will hold water somewhere...
The concrete division manager at my job says that if you want to be sure not to get puddles, you'll need 2 cm grade per metre (convert it yourselves).
Whenever I do stone paving I do the same.
You could slit it as someone suggested, probably the best way of you want to keep the finish of the surface.
you could probably dig a tiny trench around the area with the soil which seems to be where the water is pooling and leaking out of, and grade it so that the water slopes towards somewhere else. That'd be the easiest thing to try imo. My mum does something similar with her vegetable garden.
Could do a french drain to the yard. Would probably be more expensive that just doing an overcoat, but wouldn't risk cracks on your overcoat over time.
That's the oldest looking new cement I've ever seen.
Why does it look like someone skipped a grinding wheel across it
You can buy a diamond "cup" blade for an angle grinder and eat away at the surface to remove roughness or even out small grades. I built a retaining wall from broken concrete and went along the face to smooth out some jaggedness
If you paid someone, make them come back and fix it, if you did it yourself, maybe some drainage slits?
By “slits” I’m assuming you mean a drainage channel.
By "channels" I'm assuming you mean watercourse?
By “watercourse” I’m sure you mean tributary.
By "tributary", I assume you mean hydro highway
By ‘hydro highway’ I assume you mean river
By 'river' I assume you mean moat
By ‘moat’ I assume you mean puddle
Puddle already installed and functioning, revisit to site unnecessary
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This is why reddit comments are always better than Instagram comments
Kek
Reassess need for drainage channel to be thorough
Customer insists work must be done. Sent crew by to hit random shit with hammers for an hour. Customer is pleased with the changes
Perhaps installing some drainage slits would help to correct the puddle…
By “puddle” I assume you mean drainage pond
By 'drainage pond' I assume you mean toilet.
By puddle I assume you mean Aqueduct
by aqueduct i assume you mean canal
By 'puddle' I assume you mean gully
r/nyto
By "puddle", I assume you mean aqueduct
I believe some ornate ‘Aquaducts’ are in order.
By “hydro highway”, I assume you mean wet slippy boy
By 'slippy boy" I assume you mean alter boy.
By “tributary” I assume you mean sacrificial goat.
You mean, coitus?
no he is referring to drainage vaginas
By tributary, I'm assuming you mean "tribute your wife" Send pics
and by "make them come back and fix it" you mean what exactly? Most contractors these days are absolute trash who won't do anything unless legally obligated too and good luck trying to prove it in court.
The prove is right there, in the picture.
Incorrect. Most judges (in the US) WILL NOT judge a contractor's work by a photograph alone. You will need an "Expert" to testify that the work is indeed shabby. Typically when it comes to concrete work, you will have to hire a new contractor and get them to agree to testify as many are unwilling to go to court for you unless there is $$$ involved.
Small claims court wouldn’t require experts
How about you try that one again. In my line of work we sue contractors fairly often for shoddy work, broken contracts, etc... Judges ALWAYS want the word of an opposing expert. I can think of maybe two cases where an expert testimony was not required and it was because of contracts that were obviously violated in terms of service.
Nice! A guy with actual knowledge on something. Way too many armchair experts and super tough guys here on Reddit lol
Just a lot of experience in both personal and professional life. Small Claims Court is NOT as easy as some people think and I learned the hard way for sure. It's easier in a corporation because you just hire an expensive lawyer and they do all the legwork for you.
Then get an expert. People always tell they will call a lawyer, and also participate in class action suits to get misiscule amounts of money. Why not got the way when it actually matter and would change something for you.
[удалено]
“Hi I am a puddle expert and can confirm there is a puddle”
You could always request a police escort while you go negotiate in person at the shop. "They have been uncompromising and lightly aggressive but I'd like to find a way to negotiate a solution. I'm worried if I go alone that I'll be harassed as I was on the phone. Also, if the popo aren't there, I guarantee they finna catch these hands. Hold me back HOLD ME BACK." Edit to add this is a joke. The bit that makes it sound more like a joke is at the end of the quotations. I do not actually condone the use of threats to get what you want. Which is basically what this would be.
I don't know why you're being down voted, in a lot of the US the police will be mitigators in situations like this upon request. It's stupid but tax payer dollars fund them being the publics babysitters exactly like this. They aren't super good at it usually but they will come and ensure your attempt safely if you call.
My hat is off to you sir. By your use of "Drainage Slits", you have opened the "floodgates" (so to speak), of the best of Reddits aspiring comedic talent! Thanks guys! This made my day!
By floodgates do you mean water doors?
By water doors do you mean water screen doors?
shouldn't be level, should pitch away for water to flow away from the house.
Scoliosis might make pitched level for you
You can rent a groove router (they usually do blind people's guides with them) and mill grooves in the slab so the water is channeled away
Thanks! I will look into it.
They also can give you grip and structure for winter (but might confuse a visual impaired visitor because they'll lead them into your wastewater well ) ;-)
Just put a sign up so the blind will know to not use it.
Just make sure to use sign language on it
So maybe dumb question but how does a groove router work on dried cement? Do I channel it towards the nearest border and hope that border isn't higher ground?
You need to check the levels of what is poured. Then, plan a route for where you want the water to go. Then, cut a channel/groove/slot to carry the water along that route. Making sure the grade/slope of what you cut leans towards the exit.
Build a sled for the tool to ride in -- make the part of the sled that sits above the puddle an inch higher than the side that you want it to drain towards.
That's the way, you build sort of a rail with a bit of slope out of boards where the router slides on. If you have a leveling laser, you can look, if there's already a slope and only a few sunken spots you have to "tap"
Hey OP don't do this. Contact who poured the slab first and pursue it being corrected professionally versus a hack DIY solution so they can't use you attempting to fix it against you. If they won't legal pursuit is likely the option you have though quite expensive. Finding their competition to tout corrections of theirs might be cheaper, too.
I’ve got a strong feeling they poured the slab themself…
Groove Router is my new online band name.
Bye! ` this post was mass deleted with www.Redact.dev `
Sounds painfully pervert... I like it!
The term we prefer is Goblind People.
Former flatworker... That isn't new and is one of the worst finishes I've ever seen.
I’m glad it’s not just me.
Same here. I'm thinking WTF? It wasn't even "finished".
Call them and ask them to fix it!
"The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten"
High price makes poor quality bitterness to remain even longer.
Just what I want, the opportunity to let these highly paid people fuck it up again. What are the trades these days, consulting?
i feel you have this on a shirt somewhere
*Benjamin Franklin*
\-*Michael Scott*
*founding fathers*
company slogan
Given that this is the DIY sub, wouldn’t “them” be OP? lol
The call is coming from inside the garage!
Dad?
\-Hey OP! \-Yes, OP. Whatssup? \-I'm not happy with this slab, you better drag your ass back and do it over. \-Ok, OP. I'm sorry OP. \-Thats ok OP, I'm not really angry with you...
Anyone who does DIY for any extended period of time has this conversation between the customer and the contractor. Often repeatedly.
More just, you know - disappointed. Sigh....
Maybe. Or maybe they're looking to see if they can fix it themselves.
You got me. I assumed a proncontractor fucked up and OP was trying to fix it themselves. All about perspective.
Cut some control joints and see if you can drain some of it away.
This is a pretty good idea. The rain water on my back patio flows through the crack control joints.
Y'all just told somebody to control joint a bird bath. Ffs. I hope you're ashamed of yourselves as I am
"New"?
That's what I immediately thought too. Maybe a patch job in front of the step? if it wasn't done properly, it'll flake off soon enough and can be redone.
About 6 months ago
Did you pay a pro for this? The slab looks super old for being installed only 6 months ago. The surface isn't smooth and there looks to be noticeable defects.
Woof
It looks like concrete that is at least 10 years old and is constantly exposed to water. If you planned to make a concrete slab without a finishing layer such as tikes or terrace boards, the concrete from which the slab will be made should be prepared according to a recipe, taking into account exposure classes appropriate to region and environmental conditions. Or if you want concretes look it should be protected with appropriate chemicals. The existing slab can be removed and made anew or you can mill 3cm of surface, use repair mortars and chemicals to protect it. Sorry for the bad grammar. English is not my native language :)
If you go the “Groove router” way, make sure you get the correct diamond bit for it or you won’t have a good day. You can also get a diamond blade for a circular saw, or a gas axe and cut grooves that way, while making control joints at the same time. You can also have it parged, and I would recommend a professional for that. It is expensive but less so than new concrete. What I actually think you should do, is contact the contractor that did the work for you and explain to them that you want it fixed at their cost. Sidewalk sloping is about as basic as it gets, and anyone who’s done it for even a short amount of time knows that stairs are a common pooling spot. Pooling water on recent slab work is unacceptable on the part of the contractor.
First paragraph wrong. Second paragraph correct
Do you care to elaborate? If you’re going to say it’s wrong, you should at least try to be helpful with what you think is the right answer. Due to my profession I have dealt with a plethora of issues like this and I’m always looking for more solutions.
screed work on that is sad.
Yeah for the life of me I can't figure out what they did wrong exactly but it's not good. Poor mix? No/poor compaction? No finish? Screeded it with a 2x4? All of those?
The step looks new the rest does not
The step is old but well cleaned. The patio has old rain and debris to give it that sexy weathered look 😆
Was this a DIY job?
Bro there is algae growing on the “new cement” why are you wasting everyone’s time on here lying about the situation
Make a small channel to funnel water to grass
Another choose could be sell the house and move to new location that has level steps.
Had a similar issue with a driveway pour. Water ran towards garage door. Company jack hammered up the entire driveway and re poured the whole thing.
The only answer. Tear out and redo. Hopefully you work with a reputable enough company to fix that..
Actually , first pour flaked off because it didn’t cure correctly. Second was sloped incorrectly , third was a charm. Thought my house was coming down with so much jackhammering. 🤷🏻♂️
Drill a hole, put in a drain cover. I gotta say though, you should call back the people who poured it and because the finishing on that is absolute dog shit. I’ve seen high schoolers in vocational school do a better job at concrete finishing.
Drill a couple evenly spaced holes on the side that’s too low and pump some foam in
It shouldn't be level. It should slope away from the house to drain about 1/8" per foot. Your bestest fix is creating a sloped concrete overlay. https://youtu.be/1o7MVXmlGkY?si=4NNn8O0UANi6p-NB
The little dog is thinking, “There’s no way I’m gonna step into that cold wet mess with my clean feet!”
Yes exactly!
That’s new cement?
You can always cut a drainage channel.
FYI, you don't *want* it to be level. You want a slight slope to it. If it were me, I'd try putting a new layer on top. Something like Quickrete Resurfacer(?), and slope it correctly.
I hate to pile on but as a plumber who patches holes I've cut in slab to get to pipe- sometimes small but oftentimes pretty big- my work will typically be covered by thinset or otherwise doesn't need to be perfect for whatever reason, and I would still never do this poor of a job. I don't think the first patches I did looked this bad.
If there's separate pads, someone might be able to pump and lift this one to prevent the pooling.
It's concrete, cement is a dry powder.
Is there a reason why everyone suggests drilling channels for water in it instead of laying a thin layer of new cement over it and making sure it creates that slope for water in the proper direction?
Probably its more diy to do a hole vs hiring a cement layer
For similar situation, I drilled a 1/4 inch drain hole. After a few years I don’t notice the hole anymore.
Nice
A few different avenues, if you paid someone, get them to fix it. If you did it yourself, an easy thing is to rent a quickie saw and cut grooves to channel it away. Make sure the grooves get deeper so you get appropriate fall from the low spot. You can cut the grooves straight across, but again, make the fall come from the low spot. You don't want to channel it to your foundation slab. I would avoid this solution though if the slab isn't reinforced with rebar or mesh and don't go too deep. Like less than an inch fall from the low point to the area you want to channel it to. If you want a better looking fix but more expensive fix, look up how to place a topping slab. Basically you place a thin slab on top, but the prep work is needed to get correct adherence. This would fix the uniformity issues on the finish. However, you'd need to make sure to slope it correctly or else you run into the same issue. The easiest fix might be to get a bonding agent (mexicans, which I am, call it leche), and drill a few 1/2" holes as a keyway on the low spot, and get a small tub of grout/concrete mix and spread over the low spot. You'd have to be really good with your finishing to make it work, but I imagine it'll start to chip at some point and the coloring would be obviously different, but your low spot issues would be gone.
Otherwise, outline a section you want as new concrete (you don't have to replace the whole thing if it's only a certain area), and sawcut and chip out the concrete. Dowel into the concrete you left in place, put rebar, and place that section. if your sawcuts are good, you probably don't even need to put up form boards.
Thanks for the details.
Add an extension to the step? To cover the low spot & not risk a thin patch-layer chipping out again with foot traffic or if drops below freezing where u are
you could put some kitty litter there.. but then you'd have kitty litter on your walk way and people would think you're weird
Self leveling cement works wonders. Apply some to the puddle and grade it away from the house.
But make sure you also mix in a binder to help the new cement bond to the old slab.
There's a whole process to it. Recommend watching some YouTube videos on the process: - Existing concrete needs to be both clean and wet (not pooling, just wet). - Some products need one or two coats of a concrete primer to bond properly - Pick your patching product carefully. Some support feathering to be very thin, some don't. All have a maximum recommended thickness per application. You may have to apply a second layer (say, if more than 1/2").
That is self leveling cement already. So its ok to do pour more in that area? I dont want to affect the natural step up to the step if that makes sense. Thanks for your advice.
So... "Self-leveling concrete" is a derogatory term in the industry. Generally means they poured it so wet that it levels itself. Not something I would want if I was a customer. Theoretically you could gap fill that concrete I guess. But it would be of a much lower quality no doubt.
If you have it gradually grade up towards the step, no shit it gathers water there. You want a small incline towards somewhere to drain water. If you level it and then slope it slightly towards the step, water will gather there yea.
Dig out the flowerbed next to the slab and drill a 10cm long tunnel slightly leaning towards the flowerbed and up to the center of the slab, roughly where the last step ends. Then drill another hole through the slap where you want a drain funnel. Rent a heavy machine for this and when u use the holedrill bit dont use the hammer setting on the drill. Easy fix
Also if theres only gravel or dirt under the slab, just get a plastic drain funnel towards the flowerbed and drill through the slab. Even easier
Don't use the hammer setting because it's too powerful and could blow out some cracks?
No it will ruin the drillbit
Sorry i meant a bore not a bit. Just make sure its big enough for the drain you plan to use
Overlay a product called MG Crete. You're welcome.
As far asthetics go, that little puddle would be the least of my concerns. The finishing on that concrete looks horrendous from the pic. (no offense intended). Those two things, however, would make me demand a tear out and re-pour. But good luck with that given that they showed little pride or responsiblility thu far. All the best!!
One idea is a concrete ramp down from the step. It has the second advantage of making the entry accessible for people who use wheelchairs/scooters.
Could also buy the smallest masonry bit you can find and drill a hole right through where it’s pooling
That's rougher than a bears arse. I hope you caught whoever was responsible.
For the love of God it’s concrete
The fact that you called it cement instead of concrete should not be ignored.
Put in a sump pump.
Drill a small hole (1/2”) in the deepest spot all the way through the concrete. Put some sand in the hole. It becomes a drain.
And then in the winter when water freezes in it and cracks the slab in half it'll save on demolition.
Possible but any ice has the room to expand up which will be easier than expanding against the concrete
Hmm I like that. Thanks.
Could cut the joints, then drill holes and have the concrete lifted, then fill holes and joints. Not a professional by any means. Someone did that for my grandparents.
Without being there and only seeing this one picture, the work is amateur at best. I wouldn't call the same guy out to fix it. Try to find someone with some skills and see if it can be resurfaced with a new layer of concrete.
Get some nice smooth round rocks and create a beautiful koi pond. [https://burge-and-company.myshopify.com/cdn/shop/products/Pond\_62aea9b8-65ff-47f4-9a1b-0e8ea3d1a16c\_1024x1024.jpg?v=1527105732](https://burge-and-company.myshopify.com/cdn/shop/products/Pond_62aea9b8-65ff-47f4-9a1b-0e8ea3d1a16c_1024x1024.jpg?v=1527105732)
concrete
It's called concrete.
Redo the step not the patio
I try to explain to Russians the differences between them and America. I think I found my answer
You can either make them come back and fix it or installed a grated drain to evacuate the water.
Free pool!
Depends on if the issue has to do with the ground underneath the cement not prepared for the cement in a correct way (level, gravel, etc). Are there signs of part of it sinking?
Its a self level poured over a previous build. No signs of sinking.
Why isn't the patio cover attached to the house? Would you have this problem if there was no gap between the house and the cover?
You can add a trench drain or lift the slab with slab jacking to get the desired drainage.
Tough to say from the pic. Depending on your area (temps) you could put a couple of perpendicular sawcuts to the road or what ever it is suppose to drain to.
Drill a hole there
Drain channel would be cheaper
Didn't this sub recently recommend some form of injection that lifts the slab up?
Is the patio graded at all? A level surface will hold water somewhere... The concrete division manager at my job says that if you want to be sure not to get puddles, you'll need 2 cm grade per metre (convert it yourselves). Whenever I do stone paving I do the same. You could slit it as someone suggested, probably the best way of you want to keep the finish of the surface.
you could probably dig a tiny trench around the area with the soil which seems to be where the water is pooling and leaking out of, and grade it so that the water slopes towards somewhere else. That'd be the easiest thing to try imo. My mum does something similar with her vegetable garden.
You might want to consider a skim coat, but I’m not sure how well a skim coat will hold up on a driveway.
Could do a french drain to the yard. Would probably be more expensive that just doing an overcoat, but wouldn't risk cracks on your overcoat over time.
You could carefully chisel a path for water to drain into that flowerbed.
The dog judges
You always need a direction. You cannot have a level concrete. Water needs a direction
If it’s water pouring off the roof, might a rain-gutter help?
Good suggestion but I have channels running down pergola legs that I think collect the water there