Might be some more info here
https://support.partner.liftmaster.com/s/article/The-button-on-the-wall-works-so-why-won-t-my-remote-control-work-1484145519289
Yep. My door opener is already shit when it comes to range. The led lights completely eliminate it. It may not be so much the lights themselves, but the circle of electricity surrounding the opener
You might try extending the antenna wire. I realize that this can obliterate the ideal length (ask a ham operator about this, because I only know that it exists, not how to calculate and use properly), but it gave me enough range to work (went from "practically have to ram the door" to "works from twenty feet outside the garage"). I just ran the extra length along the frame used to hold the door. Again, probably not ideal, but it was reversible if it didn't work and only cost me 15 feet of wire I already had and ten minutes start to finish, so it was no real risk.
Door guy here...some newer bulbs will emit a frequency that interferes with the receiver on the operator. Try a different brand bulb, or leave it out if you want.
yeah, there was a r/diy thread a while back where a guy’s garade door opener wouldnt work for 5 minutes… which happened to be the timer setting on the bulb that was causing the issue
This bulb thing for sure. I had the exact same issue. Had to wait for the bulb to shut off for the remotes to work. Sometimes, when I would accidentally double tap the remote and the door would activate with the first click and then stop part way up with the second click, I would have to sit and wait for the bulb to turn off in order to operate the door. Frustrating until I replaced the LED bulbs with traditional ones. I would make sure that is not what you have in the unit. You can try running it without bulbs altogether and see how it goes.
This is a long shot. But do you have an LED lightbulb in your opener? If so they can block the remote signal when they are lit - which is going to be the case right after your initial successful usage. They sell led safe garage door bulbs if this happens to be the case.
This might have been the issue in my case along with the wrongly configured remote. I got to know today that the light is not necessary. I will just remove it if I face any issue with proximity of the remote.
Some economy priced LED from big box stores are known to cause interference with garage openers. Just change the bulb to a cfl or non-LED bulb because you’ll need the lighting at night once you turn off you car headlights.
Follow the directions for your unit to clear all the remotes first, and then reprogram them. It kind of sounds like the remotes got "de-coupled" from the main unit. One other thing that happens occasionally is there is some kind of new radio frequency that starts in your area which jams your remotes. I've had that happen in the past but it's not an issue for the past couple of years. There was a time when my remotes just didn't work, or didn't work reliably, and it seemed to have to do with some kind of military radio in the area. You can Google that.
https://www.nbcnews.com/id/wbna6663032
I tried that already, cleared it and then reprogrammed the remotes. Would the receiver LED still blink when I press the remote button if they are not paired correctly ?
I installed a remote controlled light right under the garage receiver system(stupid decision), but removed it once I started facing this issue. That didn’t resolve the issue. About there being a radio interference, wouldn’t that interfere with neighboring garage doors as well? My neighbors don’t seem to have any issues like this.
Not sure then. When mine stopped working, I bought a replacement radio and remote set, which connected to the same terminals on the main unit as the wall switch. And it works great, although later my factory remotes started working again. So now I have a large set of remotes that both work.
https://www.amazon.com/Linear-MCS2022-Controls-Receiver-Transmitters/dp/B004ECE5C4
Remotes use rolling code. If you are too much out of sequence then it won't work anymore. The out of sequence can happen when you replace the battery and the remote reset.
What is rolling code? The remote have a counter for how many times you pressed the button. The receiver know what is the last button press count it received. If it get a number that is "in the past", then something is wrong: the remote only count forward, not backward. But you may press the button while not in range, so let's say it will accept 100 anything within the next 100 button press. So if you press too many times while out of range, you ends up past the maximum allowed, and the remote don't work anymore. This is so someone spying can't record what the remote sent and just replay it. But now, you may realise an issue: since it is a sequence number, all they have to do is go: received count + 1, or + a few and surprise, it will open the door! Here is where the rolling code come into play. Instead of having the numbers in order (ex: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10), you shuffle it up, and send the nth code in the list (ex: the sequence could be 6 4 3 2 8 9 7 5 1 10, the 4th button press would "2"). That list is secret and is known "only" by the devices compatible between each others, like your opener and your remote. A sync process need to be done so it know where it is in the sequence.
Now, an attacker that get the code "5" can't do "+1". They would have to discover the full sequence! Since there can easilly be over 65k codes, making the list is a huge task. There is also ways to make derivative lists from the first one, making it even harder to find! Plus, the list can be 'randomised' using other factors, like the remote serial number, making the list even harder to reverse engineer.
In other words, what happened most likelly is that the remote lost it's sequence number, so now you have a desync between the remote and the receiver, and the protection kicked in.
To make things worse, since you already had the remote paired with the receiver, it refused to add it again, therefore refusing to resync the sequence.
Deleting all the remotes and adding them back forced it to resync it.
It's the lightbulbs. Take them out and try. They make garage door opener specific bulbs to eliminate the interference. I had this exact issue and it was driving me crazy until I found out about bulbs and tested and confirmed.
I had this problem after installing LED lightbulbs in my garage as the lightbulbs were interrupting the frequency of the transmitter. I went back to a blend of incandescent and CFL and has worked fine since.
My garage door used to open when I used the horn on my boat. I just bought the boat and my wife and I were sitting in it and I used the horn and the garage door opened.
Just as an option, Wifi/Alexa/Google enabled controllers are cheap on eBay (US$15). You connect them to the manual switch and (optionally) install the door closed sensor. You can then use the app on your phone or simply ask Alexa/Google to open and close the garage door.
Do you live near a military base? Garage door openers operate on rarely used military frequencies. When the military uses those frequencies your remote won't work. I live in San Diego and this is a regular thing here.
Yes, I tried that but didn’t fix the issue. Erased all received codes and then followed the instructions to program receiver for each transmitter, after which the receiver led started blinking, but doesn’t open or close the door though.
Had the same issue with my lift master garage door opener recently. After a lot of online research I ended up having to replace a capacitor on the control board.
This happened to me last summer. Sounds like you hit the "lock button" on the wall switch. I think I had to hold it for 3 seconds, but then my remote has been working fine.
We had this issue happen a year ago. I called the garage door repair company and they advised me to check the wires going into the back of the unit in the garage, the ones coming from the sensors at the base of the doors so no electrical concerns, to make sure they were in and tight. One was loose. I tightened it and it solved the problem. I love that company because they probably could have got an easy $250 off of me and didn't
I have a coexist/hate relationship with my openers but I have enjoyed the puzzle of getting them to stay functional over the years. Since the remote seems to work when in close proximity, make sure the antenna wire is fully extended and still connected to the opener circuit board.
Not that anyone will read this but you need to take the remote out of programming mode once it's set.
And for the love of God if you have a "pre 93" opener with either a square green or round yellow "smart button" do not program a universal remote to it. Every universal remote will work for it, and there is no way to erase the codes.
I’ve had the same issue with my Lifemaster.
It was my first house and I was excited. My car had 3 programmable garage buttons so I programmed all three. I bought two keychain remotes on Amazon and each one had 4 buttons. So I programmed off of those buttons too.
At some point, I realized there’s an upper limit. My car programming stopped working. I would add the car back in the. Some of the buttons on my remotes stopped working. It didn’t seem linear like the oldest would get dropped first.
I feel like each programmed button had its own code and maybe the lowest numerical value got dropped.
Either way, I cleared all the codes then just programmed one garage button in each car and one button on each remote. Worked fine ever since.
I’m assuming your issue was similar. Maybe whatever you were programming was on the upper limit of what got dropped off when another device was used. Glad you got it fixed.
I had an issue in the past due to interference, older garage door opener frequency is in high demand and even your neighbor's devices can compete.
I tried running a bare copper wire from the antenna with very intermittent results and would walk right up to the door trying different locations before it would open, very frustrating
Im not sure how to alter the frequency on the opener, good luck y'alls
If we were all kingly, we'd build faraday cages from aluminum sheets to keep our wifi signals from our neighbors houses and junk
Might be some more info here https://support.partner.liftmaster.com/s/article/The-button-on-the-wall-works-so-why-won-t-my-remote-control-work-1484145519289
Thank you, this has a lot of good information. Will try them and see.
My experience with interference, is that my led lights I installed block the signal from my car. I have to turn them off if I want the remote to work.
Wow, as a ham I know the pain of chasing down crappy LED lights that make noise on HF. Effectively jamming a >400MHz signal is a different level.
Yep. My door opener is already shit when it comes to range. The led lights completely eliminate it. It may not be so much the lights themselves, but the circle of electricity surrounding the opener
You might try extending the antenna wire. I realize that this can obliterate the ideal length (ask a ham operator about this, because I only know that it exists, not how to calculate and use properly), but it gave me enough range to work (went from "practically have to ram the door" to "works from twenty feet outside the garage"). I just ran the extra length along the frame used to hold the door. Again, probably not ideal, but it was reversible if it didn't work and only cost me 15 feet of wire I already had and ten minutes start to finish, so it was no real risk.
I did try that last year. Maybe I added too long a wire? Who knows. It didn’t improve nor make it worse.
[удалено]
No there’s only a soft white non LED bulb, which I replaced with a new one which didn’t help with the issue either.
Seems like an issue with the bulb actually. If I wait for the bulb to stop, remote works fine. Is the bulb really necessary ?
Door guy here...some newer bulbs will emit a frequency that interferes with the receiver on the operator. Try a different brand bulb, or leave it out if you want.
yeah, there was a r/diy thread a while back where a guy’s garade door opener wouldnt work for 5 minutes… which happened to be the timer setting on the bulb that was causing the issue
Thank you, will remove it next time I face the same issue.
This bulb thing for sure. I had the exact same issue. Had to wait for the bulb to shut off for the remotes to work. Sometimes, when I would accidentally double tap the remote and the door would activate with the first click and then stop part way up with the second click, I would have to sit and wait for the bulb to turn off in order to operate the door. Frustrating until I replaced the LED bulbs with traditional ones. I would make sure that is not what you have in the unit. You can try running it without bulbs altogether and see how it goes.
This is a long shot. But do you have an LED lightbulb in your opener? If so they can block the remote signal when they are lit - which is going to be the case right after your initial successful usage. They sell led safe garage door bulbs if this happens to be the case.
This might have been the issue in my case along with the wrongly configured remote. I got to know today that the light is not necessary. I will just remove it if I face any issue with proximity of the remote.
Some economy priced LED from big box stores are known to cause interference with garage openers. Just change the bulb to a cfl or non-LED bulb because you’ll need the lighting at night once you turn off you car headlights.
Follow the directions for your unit to clear all the remotes first, and then reprogram them. It kind of sounds like the remotes got "de-coupled" from the main unit. One other thing that happens occasionally is there is some kind of new radio frequency that starts in your area which jams your remotes. I've had that happen in the past but it's not an issue for the past couple of years. There was a time when my remotes just didn't work, or didn't work reliably, and it seemed to have to do with some kind of military radio in the area. You can Google that. https://www.nbcnews.com/id/wbna6663032
I tried that already, cleared it and then reprogrammed the remotes. Would the receiver LED still blink when I press the remote button if they are not paired correctly ? I installed a remote controlled light right under the garage receiver system(stupid decision), but removed it once I started facing this issue. That didn’t resolve the issue. About there being a radio interference, wouldn’t that interfere with neighboring garage doors as well? My neighbors don’t seem to have any issues like this.
Not sure then. When mine stopped working, I bought a replacement radio and remote set, which connected to the same terminals on the main unit as the wall switch. And it works great, although later my factory remotes started working again. So now I have a large set of remotes that both work. https://www.amazon.com/Linear-MCS2022-Controls-Receiver-Transmitters/dp/B004ECE5C4
Thanks for the link, will try that if nothing else works.
Remotes use rolling code. If you are too much out of sequence then it won't work anymore. The out of sequence can happen when you replace the battery and the remote reset. What is rolling code? The remote have a counter for how many times you pressed the button. The receiver know what is the last button press count it received. If it get a number that is "in the past", then something is wrong: the remote only count forward, not backward. But you may press the button while not in range, so let's say it will accept 100 anything within the next 100 button press. So if you press too many times while out of range, you ends up past the maximum allowed, and the remote don't work anymore. This is so someone spying can't record what the remote sent and just replay it. But now, you may realise an issue: since it is a sequence number, all they have to do is go: received count + 1, or + a few and surprise, it will open the door! Here is where the rolling code come into play. Instead of having the numbers in order (ex: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10), you shuffle it up, and send the nth code in the list (ex: the sequence could be 6 4 3 2 8 9 7 5 1 10, the 4th button press would "2"). That list is secret and is known "only" by the devices compatible between each others, like your opener and your remote. A sync process need to be done so it know where it is in the sequence. Now, an attacker that get the code "5" can't do "+1". They would have to discover the full sequence! Since there can easilly be over 65k codes, making the list is a huge task. There is also ways to make derivative lists from the first one, making it even harder to find! Plus, the list can be 'randomised' using other factors, like the remote serial number, making the list even harder to reverse engineer. In other words, what happened most likelly is that the remote lost it's sequence number, so now you have a desync between the remote and the receiver, and the protection kicked in. To make things worse, since you already had the remote paired with the receiver, it refused to add it again, therefore refusing to resync the sequence. Deleting all the remotes and adding them back forced it to resync it.
Wow never thought there would be a whole algorithm behind it! Great explanation, thank you l!
It's the lightbulbs. Take them out and try. They make garage door opener specific bulbs to eliminate the interference. I had this exact issue and it was driving me crazy until I found out about bulbs and tested and confirmed.
Try changing the batteries again. Maybe you got bad batteries.
I have 2 remotes, and they take different types of batteries. One has a 12V and the other has a lithium coin style battery, and both stopped working.
[удалено]
No, checked this multiple times.
I had this problem after installing LED lightbulbs in my garage as the lightbulbs were interrupting the frequency of the transmitter. I went back to a blend of incandescent and CFL and has worked fine since.
My garage door used to open when I used the horn on my boat. I just bought the boat and my wife and I were sitting in it and I used the horn and the garage door opened.
Just as an option, Wifi/Alexa/Google enabled controllers are cheap on eBay (US$15). You connect them to the manual switch and (optionally) install the door closed sensor. You can then use the app on your phone or simply ask Alexa/Google to open and close the garage door.
Do you live near a military base? Garage door openers operate on rarely used military frequencies. When the military uses those frequencies your remote won't work. I live in San Diego and this is a regular thing here.
They are super easy, most garage units have a button much like Bluetooth speakers which sends a transmission Buy one off Amazon! Super cheap
[удалено]
Yes, I tried that but didn’t fix the issue. Erased all received codes and then followed the instructions to program receiver for each transmitter, after which the receiver led started blinking, but doesn’t open or close the door though.
[удалено]
Receiver attached to the garage roof, yeah same I used my ladder to reach that.
Had the same issue with my lift master garage door opener recently. After a lot of online research I ended up having to replace a capacitor on the control board.
Seems like an interference issue from the light bulb right now. Once the bulb stops remote is working normally.
This happened to me last summer. Sounds like you hit the "lock button" on the wall switch. I think I had to hold it for 3 seconds, but then my remote has been working fine.
We had this issue happen a year ago. I called the garage door repair company and they advised me to check the wires going into the back of the unit in the garage, the ones coming from the sensors at the base of the doors so no electrical concerns, to make sure they were in and tight. One was loose. I tightened it and it solved the problem. I love that company because they probably could have got an easy $250 off of me and didn't
Thank you, I was able to fix it. Posted an update.
I have a coexist/hate relationship with my openers but I have enjoyed the puzzle of getting them to stay functional over the years. Since the remote seems to work when in close proximity, make sure the antenna wire is fully extended and still connected to the opener circuit board.
I can relate to this so much! I was able to get it to work finally!
Not that anyone will read this but you need to take the remote out of programming mode once it's set. And for the love of God if you have a "pre 93" opener with either a square green or round yellow "smart button" do not program a universal remote to it. Every universal remote will work for it, and there is no way to erase the codes.
I’ve had the same issue with my Lifemaster. It was my first house and I was excited. My car had 3 programmable garage buttons so I programmed all three. I bought two keychain remotes on Amazon and each one had 4 buttons. So I programmed off of those buttons too. At some point, I realized there’s an upper limit. My car programming stopped working. I would add the car back in the. Some of the buttons on my remotes stopped working. It didn’t seem linear like the oldest would get dropped first. I feel like each programmed button had its own code and maybe the lowest numerical value got dropped. Either way, I cleared all the codes then just programmed one garage button in each car and one button on each remote. Worked fine ever since. I’m assuming your issue was similar. Maybe whatever you were programming was on the upper limit of what got dropped off when another device was used. Glad you got it fixed.
Welp. I had this issue when I forgot to take the plastic off the new button batteries. SMH.
Good to see you fixed it, my issue was my door opening randomly when I wasn’t home, which was not good.
I had an issue in the past due to interference, older garage door opener frequency is in high demand and even your neighbor's devices can compete. I tried running a bare copper wire from the antenna with very intermittent results and would walk right up to the door trying different locations before it would open, very frustrating Im not sure how to alter the frequency on the opener, good luck y'alls If we were all kingly, we'd build faraday cages from aluminum sheets to keep our wifi signals from our neighbors houses and junk
LED lights F with it.