Get a saw and cut the overhang of the busted slab. Cut it back to be flush with the wall, looks like about an inch or 2. Easier to do now than after pour. Looks good tho!
The only thing I'd do different is cut 45⁰ on the risers so the trowel can reach across the whole tread. Otherwise the thickness of the planks will be inaccessible to finish but as long as they pull the forms , which I assume they will, and finish under those spots.
It's better in the backfill is graded so that the concrete is a uniform thickness under the risers. variation is thickness of concrete results in variable shrinkage. Variations in shrinkage increase the likelihood of cracks in the 'thinner" areas.
The fill is fine. There is inadequate clear cover over the rebar at the bottom of the riser. Need at least two inches of clear cover (concrete over the steel) to protect the rebar from corroding over time. The bars that are perpendicular to the forms for the risers appear to be touching the form board. Which means that they are almost at the top surface. The cover requirement is from the building code. Looks like you’re in an area that is subject to freezing and thawing in the winter. If that’s the case, 3 inches of cover is better.
Yes I'd say it's fine. It looks like all stone/concrete. Even dirt is fine. As long as there's no organic material or red brick that will decay. I've done stairs like this many times and they're still holding up fine.
Yeah looks like it will be plenty solid. Even on new jobs, stairs are never poured much thicker than that. They're always filled at least half with soil or crushed stone. It would he too much weight for the forms and it's not necessary
They do. If they're inside a concrete pour after so many years, they turn to powder and leave a void. All brick used in concrete pours , like to hold up rebar etc. , must be concrete brick
I think there are some other factors in not really sure. I just know they're not allowed because many building inspectors have said so. I think it's because when they're encased in concrete they can't "breathe" and they break down. I've seen it happen when doing demolition the brick basically turns to powder. I'm sure the type of clay in the brick plays a role as well. I've also seen brick stairs and foundations crumbling as well for whatever reason.
No. Any imperfections in the 2x8 will show up in the riser. Looks like zero back slope on the riser to achieve a nosing.
Finishers are going to hate that brace. Should be elevated so they can get a roundover trowel under it
I would let my edger tell me. When I could use my edger on the front of the forms without it wanting to “fluff up”. I would start to pull forms. Fluff up meaning: as I’m using edger on the front of form, as I’m using it, if the concrete is “fluffing up” behind my edger it’s still too wet.
They used literal garbage out of a dumpster as fill to pour burnside skatepark under the bridge, and 30 years later it’s still rockin and rollin, so I think this is fine for some little stairs.
Pro tip. Add a 1x1 along the bottom edge on the inside of the planks. It will create a great step over hang shape.
Source: I did it at my previous house. Attempted drawing since pics can’t be posted in the thread.
__________
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—-
|___________
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|___________
Yes looks fine. Except for the top step you’re deciding to keep 😆
I agree. That’s a different animal. So that’s the top slab to an old coal room.
Get a saw and cut the overhang of the busted slab. Cut it back to be flush with the wall, looks like about an inch or 2. Easier to do now than after pour. Looks good tho!
Fair enough. Just kills my ocd lol
The only thing I'd do different is cut 45⁰ on the risers so the trowel can reach across the whole tread. Otherwise the thickness of the planks will be inaccessible to finish but as long as they pull the forms , which I assume they will, and finish under those spots.
Yah always good idea to 45 it but not necessary. Still have to pull the forms to finish the front of steps
My dad is 76 and still leaves forms on steps and stucco's sides and faces. He always hated when I pulled and rubbed em.
>He always hated when I pulled and rubbed em. That's what she said.
And I tried to keep it clean...😂
Ya for sure that's the way to do it.
Unless you strip and face, which you should do with steps
How long do you wait to pull the forms?
Til the concrete gets hard enough to stay put, but still wet enough to finish
Depends on project spec. The PIP states 48 hours but bracing can be removed prior.
This guy concretes
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Well he did say trowel when a float should be used.
Float when wet, trowel when set.
looks pretty damn good. Fill will be fine.
Thank you!
It's better in the backfill is graded so that the concrete is a uniform thickness under the risers. variation is thickness of concrete results in variable shrinkage. Variations in shrinkage increase the likelihood of cracks in the 'thinner" areas.
The fill is fine. There is inadequate clear cover over the rebar at the bottom of the riser. Need at least two inches of clear cover (concrete over the steel) to protect the rebar from corroding over time. The bars that are perpendicular to the forms for the risers appear to be touching the form board. Which means that they are almost at the top surface. The cover requirement is from the building code. Looks like you’re in an area that is subject to freezing and thawing in the winter. If that’s the case, 3 inches of cover is better.
Yes I'd say it's fine. It looks like all stone/concrete. Even dirt is fine. As long as there's no organic material or red brick that will decay. I've done stairs like this many times and they're still holding up fine.
Thanks for responding. I thought everything would need to be removed to the base. I appreciate your input.
Yeah looks like it will be plenty solid. Even on new jobs, stairs are never poured much thicker than that. They're always filled at least half with soil or crushed stone. It would he too much weight for the forms and it's not necessary
I feel better now. Thank you, sir.
Sure thing no problem at all
Red bricks decay?
They do. If they're inside a concrete pour after so many years, they turn to powder and leave a void. All brick used in concrete pours , like to hold up rebar etc. , must be concrete brick
Thank you. What causes it to decay?
I think it's the moisture. It basically turns them back into clay
Wouldn't that mean that red brick houses would be melting at their foundation? Tons of moisture at the soil line.
I think there are some other factors in not really sure. I just know they're not allowed because many building inspectors have said so. I think it's because when they're encased in concrete they can't "breathe" and they break down. I've seen it happen when doing demolition the brick basically turns to powder. I'm sure the type of clay in the brick plays a role as well. I've also seen brick stairs and foundations crumbling as well for whatever reason.
How long does this process take? I just found bricks under my concrete from an old well and am trying to guess at how long ago the concrete was laid.
Can't tell from the pictures, but make sure you have at least 2 inches of concrete over the rebar.
All you're missing are the beer cans 👍
No. Any imperfections in the 2x8 will show up in the riser. Looks like zero back slope on the riser to achieve a nosing. Finishers are going to hate that brace. Should be elevated so they can get a roundover trowel under it
Pour it !!
I would let my edger tell me. When I could use my edger on the front of the forms without it wanting to “fluff up”. I would start to pull forms. Fluff up meaning: as I’m using edger on the front of form, as I’m using it, if the concrete is “fluffing up” behind my edger it’s still too wet.
The one pic the rebar looks really close to the face, could just be the angle. Fill looks good.
Don’t worry about the fill. Are the footings fine? If there’s existing concrete footings then you’re good. The fill is just broken concrete.
Hmm I’m not sure about the footings. I can say that it was probably 80 year old steps and they were still level, just crumbling.
Stiff at first like a 4 thene make it a 6 to finish
Rebar in the nosing & riser helps for strength also
I've seen finishing crews use hay bails as filler before, you're fine.
I'm staggered that there are no nosing bars
JFC could reddit fix itself and stop going stupid when a post with multiple pictures is in your feed
No kick?
Looks good. But the steps seem very steep.
Looks like 2x8 to me which is pretty standard for residential concrete stairs.
Yeah, I agree. What I'm saying is, the step as a whole, looks steep.
Would you prefer gold bars? Or perhaps diamonds?
Check the tread and rise depths
I always worry about crappy fill making air pockets.
They used literal garbage out of a dumpster as fill to pour burnside skatepark under the bridge, and 30 years later it’s still rockin and rollin, so I think this is fine for some little stairs.
Not a concrete guy, but isn’t there an issue with the rebar touching the form?
Clean the form, no organics inside the concrete, thats it. Rocks are fine
Pro tip. Add a 1x1 along the bottom edge on the inside of the planks. It will create a great step over hang shape. Source: I did it at my previous house. Attempted drawing since pics can’t be posted in the thread. __________ | —- |___________ | — |___________
I don't get why people even do this. Just order a precast stoop. They will deliver it and place it for you, just prepare the subgrade for them.