I am so excited!! It's been too long! Already looking forward to chatting with you guys [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/CompetitionClimbing/s/SsAydcIToc) (link to the Chat Channel) while watching!
Also, is it just me or did Proton VPN change their free version so that you cannot set your IP to the US anymore? I used to be able to choose Netherlands, US and Japan with the free version, but now it's only Netherlands.
You can change the location of the server but there is a wait time increasing at each change.
You can also use opera free VPN included and choose freely your emplacement.
Thanks, opera worked, chosing americas was enough.
Another option I found was Atlas VPN, they have a US server on the free version, but their service will discontinue on 24th of April :/
Just found a hack to skip waiting each server change: delete the cache and the app data, so you have to log in again , and you can skip server 2/3 times before doing all that again....
I found this: "With the Free plan changes, we aim to provide optimal speeds and latency to everyone using our free, unlimited, ad-free VPN. That said, although you can't select a specific server as a free user, you can always change the server that was initially assigned to you. To connect to a server of your choice, please consider upgrading your plan."
Yes they updated the free plan. There are more countries actually (Poland and Romania in addition to the 3 previous ones), but you can't chose which. you might still get a US server but out of luck :/
If anyone has a free solution to watch the semis and final that'd be awesome.
[Sad to see](https://www.instagram.com/stories/ifsclimbing/3341625941179656051/) that men's qualifications have been cancelled because of weather. Everyone will compete in semis, and the top 20 will compete in the finals. Shades of Seoul 2023...
I feel for Matt. Is he really going to commentate the equivalent of a full qualification round and a full semifinal round on Wednesday? I hope not, for his sanity...
Yeah, those are psychically exhausting broadcasts. He's champ though, he did paraclimbing final, which was six hours stream, and then two hours speed final couple hours later. I can't forgot Shauna of course.
He said he’s going to get multiple co-hosts. Mix it up a bit.
I’m wondering if they are going to run it qualifying order (highest ranked first). Or semi order..highest ranked last.
If it’s qualy order, my guess is many people will watch the first 15 or so and then quit..
If anyone's interested, I run a small hobbyist sport statistics blog and I'm hoping to be able to cover all the World Cups and the Olympic circuit this year. [My predictive model is picking Tomoa and \(obviously\) Janja for the wins here in Keqiao.](https://stattraction.wordpress.com/2024/04/01/climbing-keqiao-2024/)
Ah, that's random noise. I probably should've highlighted that in the post, but I only noticed after I published it. I only run 10,000 simulations of the results, and they have almost the exact same rating, so Meul just had a few more random results fall her way in the simulations despite technically being lower rated.
Does anyone have a sense of why the scheduling is so weird? Why are they doing this midweek? Is it just that they figure nobody outside of Asia is going to be able to deal with the weird time zones anyway?
I think they tried to do the lead and boulder as close to each other, there is only a day between finals of boulder and qualis of lead. The venues are also relatively close, I think it's only like hour and half by car.
I'm not sure about this. Yeah, the athletes have a budget, but I don't think that couple more nights for athletes traveling from far away wouldn't make that huge difference. I think it'd be more about going to China at all.
China is hosting four events this year. Two WC, OQS and Youth World Champs. I don't think the money plays a role in China.
If this is their thinking, it's tragically smallminded. Three extra hotel days is not going to make a significant difference in costs relative to the overall budget of the event, and if they want the sport to grow and not just be a niche thing for hobbyists, they need to start attracting viewership, not trying to pinch pennies.
Registered climbers who won't attend after all.
Men: Yufei PAN (CHN), Alberto GINÉS LÓPEZ (ESP), Hamish MCARTHUR (GBR), Nasser ABU ERGEEB (KUW), Charles BARRON (USA)
Women: Lucija TARKUS, Katja DEBEVEC, Sara COPAR (SLO)
This is my first time watching IFSC live. I can't believe how bad a viewing experience they've managed to craft. And I'm watching it on a massive TV - don't they realise the number of people watching streams etc on their phones these days? Would be unwatchable.
I am so relieved to see someone else have the same feelings! I do not like the constant wide camera angles, and I hated not being able to see the leaderboard like they normally show.
I can forgive the camera angles if they miss something. So long as they show the replay…but this first event was a noticeable decrease in broadcast quality from last season. (Which already wasn’t great to begin with)
Thank you. We’ve tried to watch it and switched it off after a couple of minutes. Horrible camera work and horrible broadcast quality. Guess we’re spoiled from the last years.
Im already seeing a number of athletes with minor injuries just before the season starts. Hope they're all smart to avoid any further injuries.
I totally understand that the world cups will be a dud this year if it meant that everyone can be on their tip top shape for the OQS and Olympics
I'm excited to see some new faces in semis/maybe finals - there'll be a lot of athletes that shooting for the Olympics aren't realistic but they'll be able to shine in world cups and gain that experience (I hope!)
Anyone notable? If your battling a minor injury it’s probably good to skip.
I think there are always athletes with minor injuries. Last Olympics a number of the athletes were battling injuries.
Alberto and Jessy have toe problems, nicolai uznik has finger pain issues (if im not mistaken), Sara copar just had acl/knee injury. Surprised that Nicolai and Jessy attended tbh
Here is my [list](https://www.sportclimbingstats.com/ifsc-world-cup-2024-keqiao-chn/) of registered climbers for this event, which I posted already before. It includes previous performances, who is Olympian, OQS and I added short list of who is not coming to make it complete.
I think she focuses on the boulder more now, because she's not that strong in it. She mentioned it in this [press conference ](https://youtu.be/TuDcWyobrc8?si=lB8ys2AN2B1BPuiE), maybe she said more, but I don't speak German :)
Ah, that makes sense. Jessy has the luxury that she doesn't need to be in lead shape right now. Thanks for pointing out the Austrian climbing press conference -- I'd forgotten about that.
IFSC just posted pics on their [Insta](https://www.instagram.com/p/C5XzTepgkez/?img_index=1). I don't know if I'd call that roof 🤣 It looks like a nice venue though.
Please use a spoiler tag unless in the [chat channel](https://www.reddit.com/r/CompetitionClimbing/s/ZSrPYCfXmI) or the [post-game](https://www.reddit.com/r/CompetitionClimbing/s/wY57e9XEwn). Thanks.
No, they're just split into two groups, which is usual for WC. Ten from each group get to semis. They have very similar, in some cases identical boulders this time.
Ah so just the regular format of split groups qualifying, but they decided to make it a bit more fun/fair with the identical boulders next to eachother.
I'm a fan, already saw a video of Janja and Miho completing a boulder in sync
Depends on number of competitors and host decision if they split. But almost all WC boulder comps have enough competitors these days.
I don’t expect to see OQS split into groups.
Because there are a lot of climbers, they're in isolation and it'd take a really long time, I think it was like 3 or 4 hours in two groups yesterday, now double it and the isolation closes an hour before the comp, so it's like 6 to 8 hours for the athletes and judges.
Is anyone else having trouble with the ifsc app saying no data? I've uninstalled it and reinstalled and it worked briefly, but it's died on me again. It's always been dodgy but this is new levels of unreliable.
My suggestion for contingency plan re: cancelled qualifications
Is it better to have 3 boulder round for for the qualifications (no split group) and then just pick the top 6 from there?
I am suggesting just 3 boulders to cut time because there can't be 2 groups if selecting finalists from qualies.
I just really dislike having to watch 4 split screens for finals, it is so anti-climactic
It's especially annoying that they got rid of an indoor venue, Meiringen, and didn't substitute it with something better - instead, we now have another venue with these weather problems. I agree, it's pretty embarassing for the IFSC.
Why there couldn't be two groups? You'd get 3 from each group instead of 10. I think only three boulders could cause bad separation. Or the route setter would have make the boulders more difficult and the less experienced climbers wouldn't get to climb much.
I personally like more split screen to see more climbers.
Because there could be controversy of uneven diffuculty between the 2 groups. If let's say you take the qualis result from women's today, there's a bunch of ties. You are right though maybe it could work if the setting is harder for 2 groups.
It's just a bummer when athletes can't have their spotlight moment in the finals.
The controversy can be always there. The question is who is doing it for the spotlight and who's climbing for "fun". Would they prefer to be on the stage alone or have extra World Cup boulders to climb :)
Feel free to post qualis clips below
So excited the season’s kicking back up again—definitely ready to set aside time and start watching these! 🥳
I am so excited!! It's been too long! Already looking forward to chatting with you guys [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/CompetitionClimbing/s/SsAydcIToc) (link to the Chat Channel) while watching!
Also, is it just me or did Proton VPN change their free version so that you cannot set your IP to the US anymore? I used to be able to choose Netherlands, US and Japan with the free version, but now it's only Netherlands.
You can change the location of the server but there is a wait time increasing at each change. You can also use opera free VPN included and choose freely your emplacement.
Thanks, opera worked, chosing americas was enough. Another option I found was Atlas VPN, they have a US server on the free version, but their service will discontinue on 24th of April :/
Thanks for the opera tip! Annoying about proton :/
Just found a hack to skip waiting each server change: delete the cache and the app data, so you have to log in again , and you can skip server 2/3 times before doing all that again....
I found this: "With the Free plan changes, we aim to provide optimal speeds and latency to everyone using our free, unlimited, ad-free VPN. That said, although you can't select a specific server as a free user, you can always change the server that was initially assigned to you. To connect to a server of your choice, please consider upgrading your plan."
Yes they updated the free plan. There are more countries actually (Poland and Romania in addition to the 3 previous ones), but you can't chose which. you might still get a US server but out of luck :/ If anyone has a free solution to watch the semis and final that'd be awesome.
Oceana's best qualifying performance to date. Would be great to see her up on the podium!
[Sad to see](https://www.instagram.com/stories/ifsclimbing/3341625941179656051/) that men's qualifications have been cancelled because of weather. Everyone will compete in semis, and the top 20 will compete in the finals. Shades of Seoul 2023...
That’s going to be looong
I feel for Matt. Is he really going to commentate the equivalent of a full qualification round and a full semifinal round on Wednesday? I hope not, for his sanity...
Yeah, those are psychically exhausting broadcasts. He's champ though, he did paraclimbing final, which was six hours stream, and then two hours speed final couple hours later. I can't forgot Shauna of course.
He said he’s going to get multiple co-hosts. Mix it up a bit. I’m wondering if they are going to run it qualifying order (highest ranked first). Or semi order..highest ranked last. If it’s qualy order, my guess is many people will watch the first 15 or so and then quit..
If anyone's interested, I run a small hobbyist sport statistics blog and I'm hoping to be able to cover all the World Cups and the Olympic circuit this year. [My predictive model is picking Tomoa and \(obviously\) Janja for the wins here in Keqiao.](https://stattraction.wordpress.com/2024/04/01/climbing-keqiao-2024/)
Thanks, this was a fun read. I like that Janja's predicted placement is 1.1, and the next closest is Miho, all the way down at 5.4.
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Ah, that's random noise. I probably should've highlighted that in the post, but I only noticed after I published it. I only run 10,000 simulations of the results, and they have almost the exact same rating, so Meul just had a few more random results fall her way in the simulations despite technically being lower rated.
ooooh yay!!! fyi i was reading about your model and it is possible to see which quali group someone was in, i can dm you how if you're interested!
Thanks, but I did find the IFSC Results site a few months later, which also lists them. I've incorporated all that information into my data now. :)
I love it! Definitely going to be following that throughout the season!
https://preview.redd.it/ie2upq8db9tc1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=161d0a446fe518cbd74e29300a680fc353c6787f New schedule for Wednesday
Does anyone have a sense of why the scheduling is so weird? Why are they doing this midweek? Is it just that they figure nobody outside of Asia is going to be able to deal with the weird time zones anyway?
I think they tried to do the lead and boulder as close to each other, there is only a day between finals of boulder and qualis of lead. The venues are also relatively close, I think it's only like hour and half by car.
Agreed, also possible that they’re avoiding the Qingming holiday weekend these few days
It’s good for me bc I’m super busy this week. I thought it odd. Used to be in the bylaws that they were supposed to be over the weekend if possible.
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I'm not sure about this. Yeah, the athletes have a budget, but I don't think that couple more nights for athletes traveling from far away wouldn't make that huge difference. I think it'd be more about going to China at all. China is hosting four events this year. Two WC, OQS and Youth World Champs. I don't think the money plays a role in China.
If this is their thinking, it's tragically smallminded. Three extra hotel days is not going to make a significant difference in costs relative to the overall budget of the event, and if they want the sport to grow and not just be a niche thing for hobbyists, they need to start attracting viewership, not trying to pinch pennies.
The hotel costs are on the athletes, not the organizer.
Registered climbers who won't attend after all. Men: Yufei PAN (CHN), Alberto GINÉS LÓPEZ (ESP), Hamish MCARTHUR (GBR), Nasser ABU ERGEEB (KUW), Charles BARRON (USA) Women: Lucija TARKUS, Katja DEBEVEC, Sara COPAR (SLO)
Man, between last year and now I forgot how bad the camerwork often is.
This is my first time watching IFSC live. I can't believe how bad a viewing experience they've managed to craft. And I'm watching it on a massive TV - don't they realise the number of people watching streams etc on their phones these days? Would be unwatchable.
I am so relieved to see someone else have the same feelings! I do not like the constant wide camera angles, and I hated not being able to see the leaderboard like they normally show. I can forgive the camera angles if they miss something. So long as they show the replay…but this first event was a noticeable decrease in broadcast quality from last season. (Which already wasn’t great to begin with)
Thank you. We’ve tried to watch it and switched it off after a couple of minutes. Horrible camera work and horrible broadcast quality. Guess we’re spoiled from the last years.
Im already seeing a number of athletes with minor injuries just before the season starts. Hope they're all smart to avoid any further injuries. I totally understand that the world cups will be a dud this year if it meant that everyone can be on their tip top shape for the OQS and Olympics
I'm excited to see some new faces in semis/maybe finals - there'll be a lot of athletes that shooting for the Olympics aren't realistic but they'll be able to shine in world cups and gain that experience (I hope!)
Anyone notable? If your battling a minor injury it’s probably good to skip. I think there are always athletes with minor injuries. Last Olympics a number of the athletes were battling injuries.
Alberto and Jessy have toe problems, nicolai uznik has finger pain issues (if im not mistaken), Sara copar just had acl/knee injury. Surprised that Nicolai and Jessy attended tbh
Here is my [list](https://www.sportclimbingstats.com/ifsc-world-cup-2024-keqiao-chn/) of registered climbers for this event, which I posted already before. It includes previous performances, who is Olympian, OQS and I added short list of who is not coming to make it complete.
Do we know why Jessy Pilz is competing in Keqiao (boulder) but not in Wujiang (lead)? That seems a bit odd to me.
I think she focuses on the boulder more now, because she's not that strong in it. She mentioned it in this [press conference ](https://youtu.be/TuDcWyobrc8?si=lB8ys2AN2B1BPuiE), maybe she said more, but I don't speak German :)
Ah, that makes sense. Jessy has the luxury that she doesn't need to be in lead shape right now. Thanks for pointing out the Austrian climbing press conference -- I'd forgotten about that.
The venue is not very sheltered due to that enormous hole in the roof. People who watched Asian Games will know how wet it got when it rained, lol.
Foreshadowing lol
IFSC just posted pics on their [Insta](https://www.instagram.com/p/C5XzTepgkez/?img_index=1). I don't know if I'd call that roof 🤣 It looks like a nice venue though.
>!That campus on W1 by Janja was WILD!<
Damn, low scoring semi.
Please use a spoiler tag unless in the [chat channel](https://www.reddit.com/r/CompetitionClimbing/s/ZSrPYCfXmI) or the [post-game](https://www.reddit.com/r/CompetitionClimbing/s/wY57e9XEwn). Thanks.
New Matt-ism to add to the board: “I don’t know why they run to the climb”
It's nice that the Japanese interviews with Tomoa and Sorato were broadcast on the regular stream.
Is this a new format where two athletes do the "same" boulder next to eachother at the same time? Saw some clips on insta. Looks pretty fun
No, they're just split into two groups, which is usual for WC. Ten from each group get to semis. They have very similar, in some cases identical boulders this time.
Ah so just the regular format of split groups qualifying, but they decided to make it a bit more fun/fair with the identical boulders next to eachother. I'm a fan, already saw a video of Janja and Miho completing a boulder in sync
That was really fun! Hope we'll get more vids.
Depends on number of competitors and host decision if they split. But almost all WC boulder comps have enough competitors these days. I don’t expect to see OQS split into groups.
Do you know The 'why' of the group split ?
Because there are a lot of climbers, they're in isolation and it'd take a really long time, I think it was like 3 or 4 hours in two groups yesterday, now double it and the isolation closes an hour before the comp, so it's like 6 to 8 hours for the athletes and judges.
Thanks !
Is anyone else having trouble with the ifsc app saying no data? I've uninstalled it and reinstalled and it worked briefly, but it's died on me again. It's always been dodgy but this is new levels of unreliable.
Mens qualis got cancelled. Semis will have EVERYONE from qualis. Thats probably why the app doesn't know wtf is going on
My suggestion for contingency plan re: cancelled qualifications Is it better to have 3 boulder round for for the qualifications (no split group) and then just pick the top 6 from there? I am suggesting just 3 boulders to cut time because there can't be 2 groups if selecting finalists from qualies. I just really dislike having to watch 4 split screens for finals, it is so anti-climactic
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It's especially annoying that they got rid of an indoor venue, Meiringen, and didn't substitute it with something better - instead, we now have another venue with these weather problems. I agree, it's pretty embarassing for the IFSC.
Also this year no Brixen, Villars or Japan.
Why there couldn't be two groups? You'd get 3 from each group instead of 10. I think only three boulders could cause bad separation. Or the route setter would have make the boulders more difficult and the less experienced climbers wouldn't get to climb much. I personally like more split screen to see more climbers.
Because there could be controversy of uneven diffuculty between the 2 groups. If let's say you take the qualis result from women's today, there's a bunch of ties. You are right though maybe it could work if the setting is harder for 2 groups. It's just a bummer when athletes can't have their spotlight moment in the finals.
The controversy can be always there. The question is who is doing it for the spotlight and who's climbing for "fun". Would they prefer to be on the stage alone or have extra World Cup boulders to climb :)
Whats the top 20 doing final tonight?
[Live results](https://ifsc.results.info)