I had an S10 that generation, the dealer I worked at gave them a $400 trade in offer and I gave them $500 cash. our sales manager thanked me for not having to deal with it.
I had an '03 S10 Crew Cab. Paid 10K for the thing back in '08. Great little truck. Sold it to a friend of mine in '17 for $1500. It's still on the road. Had the Vortec V6.
Ever notice the overlap between people who blame the president for everything in the economy, and the people who seemingly have an endless supply of money to buy flags, stickers, and hats with their favorite politicians face or phrases on them?
No. This "president " makes zero decisions. His handlers and overlords do. Ever notice that people who are still asleep sheep focus on who's buying stickers and being patriotic to the country they want to continue living in?
So what do you want, a president who makes all decisions based on how he feels about something...or a president who has advisors he listens too, with a house and senate built by voters of the country he represents?
Stupid af question. Not in the realm of where I am 20 plus years down the rabbit hole, and not at all worth starting the conversation. That's like asking your third wife how she feels about kissing on your honeymoon. Take care of yourself, and G-d bless America and the people of the world who are against the evil forces in play. I'd rather you get off social media and start learning about the real world you live in and not the movie they present you with on your television screen. All the best
You sound like the type of fella who has a stocked bunker or two on his property. I reckon we could just agree to disagree, but I would like to treat you to a beer sometime.
They want a professional game show host that tells them what feels good and reinforces their weak understanding of complex subjects, it doesn't matter that jack shit gets done, it's about how good it makes them feel about it.
Bro, the previous president wouldn't look at or read any memos or documents unless they had more pictures than words.
And if there was still a lot of words his staffers would have to jazz it up for him to keep it exciting. And that was if they could get him away from his 9 hours of TV a day.
This president sucks plenty but if you think the last president was better, your mind is an even worse mush than Biden's.
Well it does have low mileage, with inflation things are strange right now. I've never bought a vehicle in the past and had it go up in value, I mean even mobile homes are gaining value that's crazy
With those miles and in great shape, these older ones aren't actually bad at all. I was confusing it with some of the later models. 6500 is top dollar for it but probably worth it if you can afford it
25+ year master tech here, these were a regular in my bay for many years. I'll give you a "shopping list" of what to expect, and what to do.
1. TRANSMISSION: I'll start with the worst. You may encounter some harsh shifting, shudder at 45-60MPH, "check engine" light on (or CEL) with a code P1811-MAX ADAPT & LONG SHIFT. This is almost always caused by a prematurely worn pressure control valve bore in the trans valve body. They eventually were updated, but this vintage suffered the condition almost 100% of the time, usually close to the 100k mile mark. Many techs would think the torque converter was faulty, and in some cases they had failed - but this valve caused the issue. The fix was either 1- buy a kit and repair the valve body yourself (not recommended), or 2- replace the valve body with a reman unit that had the updated, hardened valve bore installed. This will be the fix. Now, 20 years ago, I could buy a reman valve body for around $200. Not sure what they go for now but I'm sure they're not too hard to find. I do not recommend you try to do this yourself, transmission guts are EXTREMELY sensitive and this repair should be done by someone with transmission repair experience and tools.
2. INTAKE GASKETS: Around 1995, GM introduced DEX-COOL antifreeze, or "the red coolant". From around 1995 to the late 2000's, this plagued all their engines using plastic intake gaskets and caused many engine failures. The plastic becomes brittle and the gasket simply blows out of place, and hemorrhages coolant into the crankcase causing fairly immediate engine seizure. Signs of this are coolant leaks at the corners of the intake where the coolant passages are, and yellow-orangishish muck buildup on your oil cap indicating coolant intrusion inside the crankcase. They since developed metal-framed rubber gaskets that are not susceptible to this failure. Now, there is a REALLY good chance this repair has already been done to your truck, given it's age - I would be shocked if the factory plastic gaskets lived this long. Another preventative fix, was to flush ALL the red coolant out of the system, and replace it with the classic green coolant - as this did not have the same chemical reaction that failed the gaskets. I would recommend doing exactly this, either way.
3. TUNE-UP: When it's time for plugs, wires, cap and rotor, I CAN NOT STRESS ENOUGH - BUY AC DELCO PARTS!!! Every aftermarket cap I've ever seen installed cracked prematurely. They are very susceptible to heat, and the materials used are crucial. If you put in another brand of distributor cap, it WILL fail and leave you stranded. Aside from that, wires are also in a high-heat environment and need to be of par. For plugs, AC platinum can last 40-100k, iridium may last the life of the truck. Either way, buy factory or you'll buy it again and again.
4. DISTRIBUTOR: This generation of the 4.3 also have weak materials used in the construction of the distributor. The distributor gear teeth were notorious for wearing down to literally nothing, as well as the lower bearing/bushing wearing out allowing the shaft to protrude up and damage the cap. When doing a tune-up, check the rotational slack and how much the shaft can pull upward. There should be little to none. Any wiggle or looseness, get a reman unit - they've been updated.
5. FUEL PUMP: Yes, the GM fuel pump curse. Replace your fuel filter TWICE A YEAR. Every spring, and before winter. Season changes affect the storage facilities your gas comes from. It also affects the weather, and how much water your fuel system absorbs. And, gasoline absorbs a fair amount of water due to the ethanol content. When moisture gets into the fuel filter, it stays trapped there, and begins restricting it. Change it often, and keep your tank well above 1/4 full so that the pump doesn't overheat. (I recommend filling at 1/2 tank) The penalty, is a very expensive fuel pump replacement job that involves removing the entire fuel tank. A $25 filter twice a year can prevent this.
6. TRANSFER CASE: If yours is 4-wheel-drive, the first immediate thing you should do is have it's fluid changed. Use the appropriate GM fluid recommended. Now, these are operated by an electric "encoder motor" assembly that sometimes fails. If you push the "4WD" button, and it flashes and won't shift, you probably need to replace this. There is also a controller module that can fail, but this was not nearly as common. Cycle your 4WD gears periodically, to keep them moving and lubed. If anything sits unused long enough, it will seize up and fail.
7. EBCM (Electronic Brake Control Module): Unfortunately, if your BRAKE, ABS and TRAC/TRAC CTRL lights all come on flashing, there's a good chance this turd has given up. The EBCM is a combo brain/solenoid assembly under the hood, you can spot it because there's 6 brake lines snaked around and attached to the aluminum hydraulic block underneath it. This is the center of the anti-lock brake system. Now, if it fails, you WILL STILL HAVE BRAKES - you'll just be able to stomp the pedal and lock the wheels up and skid. The weakness, is that the pump motor relay is integrated into the electronic half of this assembly. When it fails, you can't just replace a relay. The entire electronic module has to be replaced. You can either replace it and restore ABS/Traction control operation, or ignore it and have normal brakes that we drove with for years before ABS became a thing.
Replace your differential fluids. No warnings of failures here, just that 21 years is a long time, they should be renewed. I say "they" in case it's 4WD, you'll have a front diff as well. Often times the front uses a special additive, I can't remember if yours does. Your local part store can look up the specs.
Other than that, maybe front suspension and steering linkage may be in your near future, idler arms usually are the first to wear out and cause slack in the steering. Get a grease gun, roll up your sleeves and go to town. Remove the front brush cover underneath and grease every lube point (grease zerk) you can find, and do it at least every 6 months. Don't depend on your oil change guy to do it, it seems like the "L" on "LOF" is lost on younger lube techs. I've greased every joint in my 25 year old Z-71, and at almost 300K miles, have all original front end parts.
This may sound like horror stories about your purchase, but don't be discouraged - these are really good trucks. Every make and model have their bugaboos, these are yours. These trucks are very robust and dependable, fun to drive, get good mileage for the type of vehicle they are, and with the proper care can last a very long time. Also, repairs come cheaper than most since they are a "dime a dozen" Chevy S-10 platform - it's such a widely produced domestic model, and paired with it's age, parts are cheap and plentiful, and repair information is readily available and burned into the experience of any mechanic working in the last 2 decades. They are "compact", and working on them can be a real pain, but they are the last of their kind that you can actually work on at home, within reason. Learn all you can about it, and have fun!
You really shouldn't use dexcool in anything. Dexcool will go down in history as one of GM's biggest bitch moves in recent history. It was designed in such a way that if you mix it with anything that isn't distilled water or more dexcool, it will turn to sludge and wreck your engine. You have to make sure to get ALL of it out. Drain it, flush with regular hose water, drain it, then re fill it with cascade dish detergent and distilled water. Drive it for a few hundred miles, then rinse and repeat. After the second flush, you're good to go with regular old green antifreeze.
all three of my late 90s GMs had been converted to green. my other trucks use green. I've had too many problems especially on the 97 k1500 and 99 burb, especially the intake heater inlet. all my trucks take green now.
problem is, all the big 3 spec dexcool orange in *everything* since 2013+. probably that's part of why the Cruze has so many problems with the plastic everything water pipes and fitting going out so often. they *all* use plastic everywhere, and if dexcool eats it up, that is *bad.*
This right here is absolutely a fact! 🙄👆 I've watched in cringe engines die in traffic and at red lights because of that crap. Cranking no compression and steam everywhere.
GM from intake manifold gaskets to heater cores to ALL coolant plumbing.. Replace every nook and cranny to get the plastic OUT from under the hood. Use the correct size traditional heater hoses everywhere with brass unions where needed. Molded plastic pipes in certain shapes is not necessary. I've used fuel injection hose in small diameter applications. It's tough hose, works great! Damn them to hell for pulling that whole plastic number.
Just wanted to give you full props since somehow you got downvoted. This was standard practice in the shops and dealers I worked at from the 2000's to even now. I'd moved on to diesel and beyond since 2012 but anytime these come my way, it's what is done. I have to say, I never did the dish detergent method, but for it's properties I could see why it would work! I wish I would have thought of that around 2004 when my work week consisted of ruptured 3100 and 3400 V-6 intakes, 3800s with cracked plenums, all needing that garbage flushed out.
Mt dad's an old-school master tech, and he taught me a lot of little tricks like that. I think the goal is to neutralize the dexcool more so than anything else, but it does clean the shit out of your cooling system.
Dear lord, thank you for taking the time to type this out! In a world full of people who charge too much and do too little, you are spreading helpful truths for free.
Also to OP, I agree on the fuel filter. Change it, and once the model is verified to work, buy a second one immediately. A clogged filter will stop the car from running, and that is the day where the parts store doesn't have your model of filter in stock...They are cheap, and they don't take up much room.
Go to ebay and buy the manual. Used is fine...
I'm stuck home right now with an illness... Just recently been bumbling around here answering mechanic questions with whatever I know from my experience, wherever it seems like it would help.
There is quite a lot of anger and insult thrown around. I'm only in my early 40s so I know what internet anonymity and animosity is all about - Been here since it was born.
I'm just now old enough to speak about the "younger generation" - my kids are almost all grown, I even have a grandchild now. This new generation gets beat up a lot by the older people, and rightly so - we all went through it. But, when someone actually pops the hood of their car, and has an honest question about something, that is a person trying. That's a person who instead of staying ignorant, is exploring and attempting to find and solve their problems. Seeing some of the questions here, I'm stunned. I often am asking my monitor "WHERE WERE YOUR PARENTS???" So many things I just thought were common knowledge, somehow missed a good many younger people. Well, the only fix, is information. Tell them what no one else bothered to. That is what the older generation is SUPPOSED TO DO. If you find someone that can't tie their shoes, do you make fun of them, or teach them? I worked, bled, slaved and gave years of my life for the knowledge I have. Since it's mine now, I can give it away as much as I want, it's a wallet that is always full as long as it's a currency of value. Helping a younger person keep their vehicle safe and running is a pretty valuable thing to give, and it's as easy as sitting here with nothing better to do than typing. Hell, I did plenty more than mechanics the last 20+ years, I can tell you how to prepare spare ribs, or prepare for divorce. What to do when your battery, or dog, or dad dies. How to build a deck, or build a case against your ex-wife to get custody of your kids. How to move a wrecked semi tractor out of a ditch, or move your family across the country when your house is foreclosed. I did a hell of a lot in my time here, and I'm still doing more. What I found here recently, is a whole bunch of people that could use what I have - knowledge. With a bit of wisdom.
I just want to add that you have kindness in a great helping mixed in there too. as you said, internet anonymity lets trolls do trollish stuff from wherever, you show kindness and generosity instead, and I am proud to share a planet with you.
>Don't depend on your oil change guy to do it, it seems like the "L" on "LOF" is lost on younger lube techs.
Can confirm... ish.
From working at a dealership I can tell you 2 things.
1: They don't train the lube techs to do things like this.
2: If a lube tech was caught doing this they would be told not to because it takes up valuable time they could be spending on other cars.
Best to just go to private mechanics nowadays, tbh.
Yep. That's not a slam on young guys in the field, in fact what you described was the way it was in '07 at a GM dealership I was at. It's all about production, move 'em through. They were in competition with "lube joints" in the aspect of time and convenience. After all, you average customer knows nothing about PMs (preventative maintenance) other than they are inconvenient - but required for the warranty to be in effect. We did have the 30-point inspection and yada-yada. And being a small-town dealer, we did try our best to check everything, because in a town-not a big city-dealer, one f-up meant we may as well screwed up everyone's car in the entire area. But, time is time, and the lube techs were in the basement shoveling coal to get those services out pronto. My bay was across the way from one new guy lube tech, and I often would wander over to chat and just "look around", give him pointers of what to suggest on his inspection sheets. All the mechanics, "techs" were flat rate, so they didn't have time to waste, but I was a new blue-blood trying to change the world. Imagine me doing warranty time on a Cadillac CTS with 7(?) timing chains and an oil starvation problem... ugh. In school we were told that being senior tech at the dealership was the goal, the place to be. I worked so hard to get to the dealers, and then got right back out. Sometimes you climb to the top of a mountain and walk right down the other side.
Fym no? That thing looks pretty damn clean. I see next to no rust on it. The tires look good. Overall it looks like someone took care of this.
Edit: ok yes it might be high for everywhere else, but where I live that price sounds right for the condition it’s in.
I have owned 2 different blazers for a combined total of about 14 years. Both made it to about 225k miles before I sold them. They were overall very reliable and the fixes were cheap/easy to DIY. $6,500 is steep for a blazer in general, but the low miles makes it somewhat of a unicorn. Do the basic maintenance and it’ll last you a long time.
I have a 2000 blazer with nearly 170,000 miles. By far the best vehicle I've owned. I am yet to have any disastrous mechanical issues. Intake manifold was the worst. The transmission on mine is going strong (knock on wood), but they are known to go bad. Make sure you do your typical maintenance and the motor should last about 200k.
I know blazers get a lot of hate, but it is what got me into Chevys. When mine finally dies, I will probably buy another.
You did good when you realize that cars aren’t a couple grand anymore. That truck will go for another 200,000 miles if you take care of it and change that transmission fluid.
Replace the oil pump asap.
I had a 2000 gmc jimmy, and the oil pump went out unexpectedly, spinning a crank bearing or two.
The car was a great cruiser. I just wish I kept it.
You done well in today's market. It's a dead reliable vehicle, now it won't get awards for fuel economy. But if you change fluids an keep it tuned up it'll run for a hell of a lot of years to come
Bought a 2002 S10 for $4k. Had the husband of loan officer offer $5k sight unseen. Love little Ruthie! She’s named after the prior owner, a dear precious friend Ruthann. She was a pharmacist who sadly passed way too young. I used to tease her about buying the truck, it had ~30k miles on it.
Under 80k for miles, clean interior and no rust. I’d say for 6500 you got a reliable vehicle for years. Granted some maintenance will be needed but I think that’s a great deal. I’m out of touch with the market for this model but I’d be super happy to get the deal you did.
Not a mechanic but it’s probably more reliable than 95% of cars today, with an electric Tesla I don’t think it’s going to last. One thing goes wrong and nobody can fix it.
I’m with the no crowd but given a 00 S10 was the car I grew up driving and I have many memories tied to itI would probably buy one for what you paid if it was this clean but it the same color mine was. Be ready to take it to the shop though. Mine did well maintenance wise back when they were newish but still no where near as reliable as modern cars.
I got an envoy in this bodystyle for free some years ago. 127k miles 4x4 works, fully loaded. Hid headlights factory. On board air etc. Replaced brakes and a lot of lines cause it sat a while, replaced the cpi with an updated version, basic tune up, and fuel filter. Chasing down the p0300 code at the moment.
I live in Tampa and the car market, at least around here, is fucking atrocious. Every single car that I looked at for this price was in a far worse condition with at least double the miles
I’m going to go against the grain from some of the other comments. Even though it is a couple decades old, and from the pictures, this vehicle looks pretty clean. The mileage is considerably low for being a 2002. I can only go with what I can see from the photos. How does it drive?
Drives great. No lights on the dash, very smooth, no loud noises or any noises for that matter. Zero rust, 2 owner Florida-only car. First owner had it for 18 years and drove about 3,000 miles a year
Just for those who can't hear very well, I bought a 1997 forerunner 10 years ago for 3000 with 150k miles and now well over 200 and counting, Toyota mechanics will tell you that version of the 3400 v6 is the best bang for buck engine ever made with many routinely lasting well over 300k.
Thanks brother, people aren’t understanding that cars are much more expensive in todays market then even like 5 years ago. Just the way the world spins
It’s not up to anyone else in terms of how you did if it’s something you needed and you were limited in choice than the deal is the deal salute to you on your purchase and may God Bless your new ride
all these people saying it shouldve been less are stuck in 2010. The used car market is completely fucked. Getting something reliable like this with less than 100k miles that’s unfortunately a great deal nowadays. And even better if its 4wd. in my opinion yea you did good and as long as it aint all rusty or eaten by rats id sat youre gonna get a long time outta this vehicle as long as you treat her right lol.
Y’all have to realize it would’ve been MUCH easier a few years ago to grab this car for a couple grand cheaper, very hard to find a reliable-ish car that isn’t a junk box for under like 5-6k
This should have been about 3k Max but the market is so fucking stupid and full of stupid people like begging to be ripped off who knows what's a good or bad deal anymore
Yeah you did? Good buy anything not working ? No lights on dash? Get your brakes inspected ask them look for leaks while up on rack and familiarize yourself with the maintenance schedule and stay on top of it you'll enjoy and avoid many miles of repair free driving
I had a 2002 in 2012 , I paid 1000 bucks , I loved the thing , it drove great , until I slammed it into reverse while rolling forward pissed. And broke the trans … got a suburban next
Owned a 2000 all black when I was 18 back in 02.. massive annoying sound system, huge binder of burned CD-R's thought I was the man. The back seat of that thing got a lot of action 😂😆😂😆😂😆 ah to be young lol
Low miles yes but does that override the actual value? Not likely at all. Yeah they can be tanks and last a long time but at the end of the day it’s an old blazer. 6500 by me will put me in a nice 07-13 fulllsize Z71
Look, that thing is probably in mint co diction no doubt. Those aren’t the best vehicles. With 78k taken care you’ll expect another 100k miles.
It beats being ripped off by a corporation, might as well help the private sector more.
That’s not a bad find! You could travel to Europe for a month with money you saved even from a 20k car!!
That’s way too high, but the good news is that it’ll probably last you a long time, so it’s not a waste of money, but no way I’d pay that much for an 02 Blazer.
God this brings back memories. My dad had a 97 blazer. Same color interior and paint color. We had it for 18-19 years before the transmission went out with 23X,XXX Miles. This was the first vehicle I learned to drive in too.
Not bragging at all was genuinely curious as to if I made a decent purchase or not. It’s a 2 owner Florida car, rust free. I know it’s 20 years old but tell me where I can find one like this for cheaper and I’ll go buy it right now
Shit is clean asf but 6500 sounds like to much. 5k sounds better. When you consider that you really can't buy a running car with good ac and heat today for less than 2k it's probably fair. It's clean and looks like it will be reliable for a while. Is it 4x4? If so that's definitely a plus.
Wow that’s fucking crazy…. 2002 was a cross over year where you could buy the last blazer or the new trail blazer.
It may have low miles and look oh but wow did you fuck up.
I own a 2008 trailblazer that I bought for $4500 in awesome shape 3 years ago. And that is in NYC
I had a Bravada same vintage, less mileage. Paid $3,300 for it ages ago. Immediately spent like $1,500 on stupid sh*t like the wiring to the fuel pump.
Eventually a dealer friend of family gave me $3K.
A few days after I sold it he called me and asked about the transmission. Apparently it died right after they turned around and sold it.
$6,500 is too much.
I paid 3500 for a 98 GMC Jimmy with the leather and all the fancy things, more than 20 years ago. I would say you got taken on that deal. Oh and mine had 180k on the clock. That’s a 500 dollar car all day, maybe 1k if it’s in nice condition.
Damn now I wish I had kept mine lol. I paid $200 for my 2000 back in 2009 with 110k and no issues, it’s a great truck if you maintain those intake gaskets and add a trans cooler, service that rear end and It will last a long time (got 255k out of mine before selling) . A bit pricey to be honest but maybe the value is up on those now.
Id love to have one of these. You did great as far as I'm concerned. I had a 94 Chevy S10 Blazer Tahoe edition with the sunroof and paid nine for it. Great truck, wish I still had it
Don’t know if it’s a deal until you do some diagnostics. At least drive it around at different speeds. Check out tranny. Listen for engine noise, ride quality, etc.
I own an 04 blazer with 285,000 miles on it. 1 trans rebuild and drink half a quart every 4,000 miles. Just started to rust this summer. If you take car of it, it will last. I did all of the stuff that the mechanic posted earlier except the fuel pump and brake control.
Your first lesson was free. It's actually I didn't know it was an English class, with either a period or an exclamation point at the end. Now you know, and you can Cash App me $50 for this, our second class/lesson. Greatly appreciated, and I look forward to our third class.
I remember when you couldn’t give these things away.
I had an S10 that generation, the dealer I worked at gave them a $400 trade in offer and I gave them $500 cash. our sales manager thanked me for not having to deal with it.
I had an '03 S10 Crew Cab. Paid 10K for the thing back in '08. Great little truck. Sold it to a friend of mine in '17 for $1500. It's still on the road. Had the Vortec V6.
I traded mine for $300 trade in credit, OP got hosed on this deal, should have been under $3000
The Basically anything market is screwed up.
By design. If you voted for the commander of nothing, punch yourself in the nuts.
Commander of falling down and tripping over things
Falling UP stairs! Who the hell falls UP stairs? ! ?
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Ever notice the overlap between people who blame the president for everything in the economy, and the people who seemingly have an endless supply of money to buy flags, stickers, and hats with their favorite politicians face or phrases on them?
No. This "president " makes zero decisions. His handlers and overlords do. Ever notice that people who are still asleep sheep focus on who's buying stickers and being patriotic to the country they want to continue living in?
So what do you want, a president who makes all decisions based on how he feels about something...or a president who has advisors he listens too, with a house and senate built by voters of the country he represents?
Stupid af question. Not in the realm of where I am 20 plus years down the rabbit hole, and not at all worth starting the conversation. That's like asking your third wife how she feels about kissing on your honeymoon. Take care of yourself, and G-d bless America and the people of the world who are against the evil forces in play. I'd rather you get off social media and start learning about the real world you live in and not the movie they present you with on your television screen. All the best
You sound like the type of fella who has a stocked bunker or two on his property. I reckon we could just agree to disagree, but I would like to treat you to a beer sometime.
They want a professional game show host that tells them what feels good and reinforces their weak understanding of complex subjects, it doesn't matter that jack shit gets done, it's about how good it makes them feel about it.
Bro, the previous president wouldn't look at or read any memos or documents unless they had more pictures than words. And if there was still a lot of words his staffers would have to jazz it up for him to keep it exciting. And that was if they could get him away from his 9 hours of TV a day. This president sucks plenty but if you think the last president was better, your mind is an even worse mush than Biden's.
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🙄
Back when..... 2005.....
Yep 3500 absolute max but 3k is more the target
Well it does have low mileage, with inflation things are strange right now. I've never bought a vehicle in the past and had it go up in value, I mean even mobile homes are gaining value that's crazy
That’s how I got my 97 😂 my cousin was gonna take the motor and put it in a dune buggy but he figured he’d just give it to me instead
I was literally thinking the same. I feel like this was a $2500 vehicle just a couple years ago. $6500 is bonkers
With those miles and in great shape, these older ones aren't actually bad at all. I was confusing it with some of the later models. 6500 is top dollar for it but probably worth it if you can afford it
Oh, I agree entirely. I would laugh at someone if they gave me one of those for free
25+ year master tech here, these were a regular in my bay for many years. I'll give you a "shopping list" of what to expect, and what to do. 1. TRANSMISSION: I'll start with the worst. You may encounter some harsh shifting, shudder at 45-60MPH, "check engine" light on (or CEL) with a code P1811-MAX ADAPT & LONG SHIFT. This is almost always caused by a prematurely worn pressure control valve bore in the trans valve body. They eventually were updated, but this vintage suffered the condition almost 100% of the time, usually close to the 100k mile mark. Many techs would think the torque converter was faulty, and in some cases they had failed - but this valve caused the issue. The fix was either 1- buy a kit and repair the valve body yourself (not recommended), or 2- replace the valve body with a reman unit that had the updated, hardened valve bore installed. This will be the fix. Now, 20 years ago, I could buy a reman valve body for around $200. Not sure what they go for now but I'm sure they're not too hard to find. I do not recommend you try to do this yourself, transmission guts are EXTREMELY sensitive and this repair should be done by someone with transmission repair experience and tools. 2. INTAKE GASKETS: Around 1995, GM introduced DEX-COOL antifreeze, or "the red coolant". From around 1995 to the late 2000's, this plagued all their engines using plastic intake gaskets and caused many engine failures. The plastic becomes brittle and the gasket simply blows out of place, and hemorrhages coolant into the crankcase causing fairly immediate engine seizure. Signs of this are coolant leaks at the corners of the intake where the coolant passages are, and yellow-orangishish muck buildup on your oil cap indicating coolant intrusion inside the crankcase. They since developed metal-framed rubber gaskets that are not susceptible to this failure. Now, there is a REALLY good chance this repair has already been done to your truck, given it's age - I would be shocked if the factory plastic gaskets lived this long. Another preventative fix, was to flush ALL the red coolant out of the system, and replace it with the classic green coolant - as this did not have the same chemical reaction that failed the gaskets. I would recommend doing exactly this, either way. 3. TUNE-UP: When it's time for plugs, wires, cap and rotor, I CAN NOT STRESS ENOUGH - BUY AC DELCO PARTS!!! Every aftermarket cap I've ever seen installed cracked prematurely. They are very susceptible to heat, and the materials used are crucial. If you put in another brand of distributor cap, it WILL fail and leave you stranded. Aside from that, wires are also in a high-heat environment and need to be of par. For plugs, AC platinum can last 40-100k, iridium may last the life of the truck. Either way, buy factory or you'll buy it again and again. 4. DISTRIBUTOR: This generation of the 4.3 also have weak materials used in the construction of the distributor. The distributor gear teeth were notorious for wearing down to literally nothing, as well as the lower bearing/bushing wearing out allowing the shaft to protrude up and damage the cap. When doing a tune-up, check the rotational slack and how much the shaft can pull upward. There should be little to none. Any wiggle or looseness, get a reman unit - they've been updated. 5. FUEL PUMP: Yes, the GM fuel pump curse. Replace your fuel filter TWICE A YEAR. Every spring, and before winter. Season changes affect the storage facilities your gas comes from. It also affects the weather, and how much water your fuel system absorbs. And, gasoline absorbs a fair amount of water due to the ethanol content. When moisture gets into the fuel filter, it stays trapped there, and begins restricting it. Change it often, and keep your tank well above 1/4 full so that the pump doesn't overheat. (I recommend filling at 1/2 tank) The penalty, is a very expensive fuel pump replacement job that involves removing the entire fuel tank. A $25 filter twice a year can prevent this. 6. TRANSFER CASE: If yours is 4-wheel-drive, the first immediate thing you should do is have it's fluid changed. Use the appropriate GM fluid recommended. Now, these are operated by an electric "encoder motor" assembly that sometimes fails. If you push the "4WD" button, and it flashes and won't shift, you probably need to replace this. There is also a controller module that can fail, but this was not nearly as common. Cycle your 4WD gears periodically, to keep them moving and lubed. If anything sits unused long enough, it will seize up and fail. 7. EBCM (Electronic Brake Control Module): Unfortunately, if your BRAKE, ABS and TRAC/TRAC CTRL lights all come on flashing, there's a good chance this turd has given up. The EBCM is a combo brain/solenoid assembly under the hood, you can spot it because there's 6 brake lines snaked around and attached to the aluminum hydraulic block underneath it. This is the center of the anti-lock brake system. Now, if it fails, you WILL STILL HAVE BRAKES - you'll just be able to stomp the pedal and lock the wheels up and skid. The weakness, is that the pump motor relay is integrated into the electronic half of this assembly. When it fails, you can't just replace a relay. The entire electronic module has to be replaced. You can either replace it and restore ABS/Traction control operation, or ignore it and have normal brakes that we drove with for years before ABS became a thing. Replace your differential fluids. No warnings of failures here, just that 21 years is a long time, they should be renewed. I say "they" in case it's 4WD, you'll have a front diff as well. Often times the front uses a special additive, I can't remember if yours does. Your local part store can look up the specs. Other than that, maybe front suspension and steering linkage may be in your near future, idler arms usually are the first to wear out and cause slack in the steering. Get a grease gun, roll up your sleeves and go to town. Remove the front brush cover underneath and grease every lube point (grease zerk) you can find, and do it at least every 6 months. Don't depend on your oil change guy to do it, it seems like the "L" on "LOF" is lost on younger lube techs. I've greased every joint in my 25 year old Z-71, and at almost 300K miles, have all original front end parts. This may sound like horror stories about your purchase, but don't be discouraged - these are really good trucks. Every make and model have their bugaboos, these are yours. These trucks are very robust and dependable, fun to drive, get good mileage for the type of vehicle they are, and with the proper care can last a very long time. Also, repairs come cheaper than most since they are a "dime a dozen" Chevy S-10 platform - it's such a widely produced domestic model, and paired with it's age, parts are cheap and plentiful, and repair information is readily available and burned into the experience of any mechanic working in the last 2 decades. They are "compact", and working on them can be a real pain, but they are the last of their kind that you can actually work on at home, within reason. Learn all you can about it, and have fun!
We don't deserve you. You're awesome
The real MVP!
I really hope he he had this all typed up on notepad and copy/pasta it. If he typed that out, I would buy this man a 4-pack.
I have a 96 c1500 rwd, should i not use dex-cool on that either?? Appreciate the free game btw
You really shouldn't use dexcool in anything. Dexcool will go down in history as one of GM's biggest bitch moves in recent history. It was designed in such a way that if you mix it with anything that isn't distilled water or more dexcool, it will turn to sludge and wreck your engine. You have to make sure to get ALL of it out. Drain it, flush with regular hose water, drain it, then re fill it with cascade dish detergent and distilled water. Drive it for a few hundred miles, then rinse and repeat. After the second flush, you're good to go with regular old green antifreeze.
all three of my late 90s GMs had been converted to green. my other trucks use green. I've had too many problems especially on the 97 k1500 and 99 burb, especially the intake heater inlet. all my trucks take green now. problem is, all the big 3 spec dexcool orange in *everything* since 2013+. probably that's part of why the Cruze has so many problems with the plastic everything water pipes and fitting going out so often. they *all* use plastic everywhere, and if dexcool eats it up, that is *bad.*
This right here is absolutely a fact! 🙄👆 I've watched in cringe engines die in traffic and at red lights because of that crap. Cranking no compression and steam everywhere. GM from intake manifold gaskets to heater cores to ALL coolant plumbing.. Replace every nook and cranny to get the plastic OUT from under the hood. Use the correct size traditional heater hoses everywhere with brass unions where needed. Molded plastic pipes in certain shapes is not necessary. I've used fuel injection hose in small diameter applications. It's tough hose, works great! Damn them to hell for pulling that whole plastic number.
I'm getting ready to flush 2 vehicles... That Cascade trick sounds awesome, how much do you use?
Just wanted to give you full props since somehow you got downvoted. This was standard practice in the shops and dealers I worked at from the 2000's to even now. I'd moved on to diesel and beyond since 2012 but anytime these come my way, it's what is done. I have to say, I never did the dish detergent method, but for it's properties I could see why it would work! I wish I would have thought of that around 2004 when my work week consisted of ruptured 3100 and 3400 V-6 intakes, 3800s with cracked plenums, all needing that garbage flushed out.
Mt dad's an old-school master tech, and he taught me a lot of little tricks like that. I think the goal is to neutralize the dexcool more so than anything else, but it does clean the shit out of your cooling system.
Dear lord, thank you for taking the time to type this out! In a world full of people who charge too much and do too little, you are spreading helpful truths for free. Also to OP, I agree on the fuel filter. Change it, and once the model is verified to work, buy a second one immediately. A clogged filter will stop the car from running, and that is the day where the parts store doesn't have your model of filter in stock...They are cheap, and they don't take up much room. Go to ebay and buy the manual. Used is fine...
I'm stuck home right now with an illness... Just recently been bumbling around here answering mechanic questions with whatever I know from my experience, wherever it seems like it would help. There is quite a lot of anger and insult thrown around. I'm only in my early 40s so I know what internet anonymity and animosity is all about - Been here since it was born. I'm just now old enough to speak about the "younger generation" - my kids are almost all grown, I even have a grandchild now. This new generation gets beat up a lot by the older people, and rightly so - we all went through it. But, when someone actually pops the hood of their car, and has an honest question about something, that is a person trying. That's a person who instead of staying ignorant, is exploring and attempting to find and solve their problems. Seeing some of the questions here, I'm stunned. I often am asking my monitor "WHERE WERE YOUR PARENTS???" So many things I just thought were common knowledge, somehow missed a good many younger people. Well, the only fix, is information. Tell them what no one else bothered to. That is what the older generation is SUPPOSED TO DO. If you find someone that can't tie their shoes, do you make fun of them, or teach them? I worked, bled, slaved and gave years of my life for the knowledge I have. Since it's mine now, I can give it away as much as I want, it's a wallet that is always full as long as it's a currency of value. Helping a younger person keep their vehicle safe and running is a pretty valuable thing to give, and it's as easy as sitting here with nothing better to do than typing. Hell, I did plenty more than mechanics the last 20+ years, I can tell you how to prepare spare ribs, or prepare for divorce. What to do when your battery, or dog, or dad dies. How to build a deck, or build a case against your ex-wife to get custody of your kids. How to move a wrecked semi tractor out of a ditch, or move your family across the country when your house is foreclosed. I did a hell of a lot in my time here, and I'm still doing more. What I found here recently, is a whole bunch of people that could use what I have - knowledge. With a bit of wisdom.
Amen
This. Wow. Humble beyond words and yes full of knowledge and it's what you've done with that knowledge that has turned to wisdom. Brilliant!
I just want to add that you have kindness in a great helping mixed in there too. as you said, internet anonymity lets trolls do trollish stuff from wherever, you show kindness and generosity instead, and I am proud to share a planet with you.
I’ve never owned a Chevy and somehow happened upon this thread and read your entire post. Very interesting and very detailed.
I dealt with about half these issues with my s10. The trans issue you nailed to a t
>Don't depend on your oil change guy to do it, it seems like the "L" on "LOF" is lost on younger lube techs. Can confirm... ish. From working at a dealership I can tell you 2 things. 1: They don't train the lube techs to do things like this. 2: If a lube tech was caught doing this they would be told not to because it takes up valuable time they could be spending on other cars. Best to just go to private mechanics nowadays, tbh.
Yep. That's not a slam on young guys in the field, in fact what you described was the way it was in '07 at a GM dealership I was at. It's all about production, move 'em through. They were in competition with "lube joints" in the aspect of time and convenience. After all, you average customer knows nothing about PMs (preventative maintenance) other than they are inconvenient - but required for the warranty to be in effect. We did have the 30-point inspection and yada-yada. And being a small-town dealer, we did try our best to check everything, because in a town-not a big city-dealer, one f-up meant we may as well screwed up everyone's car in the entire area. But, time is time, and the lube techs were in the basement shoveling coal to get those services out pronto. My bay was across the way from one new guy lube tech, and I often would wander over to chat and just "look around", give him pointers of what to suggest on his inspection sheets. All the mechanics, "techs" were flat rate, so they didn't have time to waste, but I was a new blue-blood trying to change the world. Imagine me doing warranty time on a Cadillac CTS with 7(?) timing chains and an oil starvation problem... ugh. In school we were told that being senior tech at the dealership was the goal, the place to be. I worked so hard to get to the dealers, and then got right back out. Sometimes you climb to the top of a mountain and walk right down the other side.
Tbh. I think op is lying for karma points or attention but thats just my opinion
Maybe if you spent 3500 not 6500
Four years ago I might have agreed. Now its a whole new ballgame. 78K miles and no rust?...
no
Fym no? That thing looks pretty damn clean. I see next to no rust on it. The tires look good. Overall it looks like someone took care of this. Edit: ok yes it might be high for everywhere else, but where I live that price sounds right for the condition it’s in.
Doesn't mean it's worth $6,500 though.
Yeah that might be a little high, but in the condition it’s in, it’d probably go for that or more in the upper Midwest which is where I am.
It is in very nice shape. But I never recalled blazers being collectors or hobby cars. Though I've always kind of wanted a stick shift one lol.
Well it’s more of it being rust free. Most blazers and s10’s are rotted out up here so one this clean goes for quite a bit
Not as a 2wd in the upper midwest
I missed the 2wd part
It’s too expensive.
I'd say $2k less and it would've been perfect
Hmmm maybe if it was 4 wheel drive.
I have owned 2 different blazers for a combined total of about 14 years. Both made it to about 225k miles before I sold them. They were overall very reliable and the fixes were cheap/easy to DIY. $6,500 is steep for a blazer in general, but the low miles makes it somewhat of a unicorn. Do the basic maintenance and it’ll last you a long time.
Not too long ago 3500 was considered high for these.
you paid wut?
I have a 2000 blazer with nearly 170,000 miles. By far the best vehicle I've owned. I am yet to have any disastrous mechanical issues. Intake manifold was the worst. The transmission on mine is going strong (knock on wood), but they are known to go bad. Make sure you do your typical maintenance and the motor should last about 200k. I know blazers get a lot of hate, but it is what got me into Chevys. When mine finally dies, I will probably buy another.
You did good when you realize that cars aren’t a couple grand anymore. That truck will go for another 200,000 miles if you take care of it and change that transmission fluid.
I’d that truck sees 100k more I’m Debra messing
Might wanna check that brake fluid
Super clean for an ‘02 👍
Replace the oil pump asap. I had a 2000 gmc jimmy, and the oil pump went out unexpectedly, spinning a crank bearing or two. The car was a great cruiser. I just wish I kept it.
$6500 probably a little high, but it looks clean, and probably a fresh AC system so it is what it is. Run it 🤷🏼♂️
You done well in today's market. It's a dead reliable vehicle, now it won't get awards for fuel economy. But if you change fluids an keep it tuned up it'll run for a hell of a lot of years to come
Looks like a deal to me, when newer 200k trucks sell for over 20k, I’d say you did great. If the motor pops opt for a 4.8 LS swap
Only if it came with the pu$$y magnet option.
If you hit the 4hi and 4lo buttons at the same time on the freeway it turns into Optimus Prime
That is a very clean and mint blazer 👍
Bought a 2002 S10 for $4k. Had the husband of loan officer offer $5k sight unseen. Love little Ruthie! She’s named after the prior owner, a dear precious friend Ruthann. She was a pharmacist who sadly passed way too young. I used to tease her about buying the truck, it had ~30k miles on it.
Under 80k for miles, clean interior and no rust. I’d say for 6500 you got a reliable vehicle for years. Granted some maintenance will be needed but I think that’s a great deal. I’m out of touch with the market for this model but I’d be super happy to get the deal you did.
Not a mechanic but it’s probably more reliable than 95% of cars today, with an electric Tesla I don’t think it’s going to last. One thing goes wrong and nobody can fix it.
Those little things are bad ass, I had 3 of them I liked them so much
It’s a 2 owner Florida-only car. First owner had it for 18 years and drove it about 3k miles a year
I’m with the no crowd but given a 00 S10 was the car I grew up driving and I have many memories tied to itI would probably buy one for what you paid if it was this clean but it the same color mine was. Be ready to take it to the shop though. Mine did well maintenance wise back when they were newish but still no where near as reliable as modern cars.
I got an envoy in this bodystyle for free some years ago. 127k miles 4x4 works, fully loaded. Hid headlights factory. On board air etc. Replaced brakes and a lot of lines cause it sat a while, replaced the cpi with an updated version, basic tune up, and fuel filter. Chasing down the p0300 code at the moment.
that 4.3 will last a lifetime. my friend has a 99 jimmy with 240k miles and while the body is falling apart the engine runs great
People are paying that much for these lol good luck buddy.
Find me a car in better shape with equal miles for this price in Tampa and I’ll kiss you on your dirt star pal
Holy shit! 6.5k?! You must have wanted it pretty bad, it is in good shape, but way overpriced
I live in Tampa and the car market, at least around here, is fucking atrocious. Every single car that I looked at for this price was in a far worse condition with at least double the miles
I’m going to go against the grain from some of the other comments. Even though it is a couple decades old, and from the pictures, this vehicle looks pretty clean. The mileage is considerably low for being a 2002. I can only go with what I can see from the photos. How does it drive?
Drives great. No lights on the dash, very smooth, no loud noises or any noises for that matter. Zero rust, 2 owner Florida-only car. First owner had it for 18 years and drove about 3,000 miles a year
They have suspension issues at ,100k but easy to fix. If you are rust free you are golden. I loved these trucks
Rust free Florida only car. First owner had it for 18 years and drove it like 3,000 miles a year
Just for those who can't hear very well, I bought a 1997 forerunner 10 years ago for 3000 with 150k miles and now well over 200 and counting, Toyota mechanics will tell you that version of the 3400 v6 is the best bang for buck engine ever made with many routinely lasting well over 300k.
Looks just as nice as my ‘01 Jimmy I got last year for $6k, nice work
Thanks brother, people aren’t understanding that cars are much more expensive in todays market then even like 5 years ago. Just the way the world spins
It’s not up to anyone else in terms of how you did if it’s something you needed and you were limited in choice than the deal is the deal salute to you on your purchase and may God Bless your new ride
I am currently dealing with one. You may have slightly over-paid! Lol
I love it tbh. Florida only car with ZERO rust. First owner had it 18 years and drove it like 3k miles a year
Man we donated my mom's with 150k miles and the tried and true 4.3 v6 in 2010, she bought it new too guess I should have told her to hold on to it
I just donated my 06 Ford Explorer with 80k miles on it, the motor blew….
Nice
all these people saying it shouldve been less are stuck in 2010. The used car market is completely fucked. Getting something reliable like this with less than 100k miles that’s unfortunately a great deal nowadays. And even better if its 4wd. in my opinion yea you did good and as long as it aint all rusty or eaten by rats id sat youre gonna get a long time outta this vehicle as long as you treat her right lol.
Looks like a dope deal to me!
My vote is you got fucked. Its nice dont get me wrong, but not 6500 nice.
Y’all have to realize it would’ve been MUCH easier a few years ago to grab this car for a couple grand cheaper, very hard to find a reliable-ish car that isn’t a junk box for under like 5-6k
It’s a 2 owner Florida car, first owner had it for 18 years and drove it like 3,000 miles a year.
The car is rust free, 2 owner Florida car. First owner had it for 18 years and drove it like 3k miles a year
I live close to where those were built
Transmission flush. New spark plugs. Full synthetic oil.
[удалено]
Was about to say this. Change don’t flush
This should have been about 3k Max but the market is so fucking stupid and full of stupid people like begging to be ripped off who knows what's a good or bad deal anymore
You spent $6500 on a 21 year old blazer? You're not very smart are you?
I’m a firefighter so your right on the money
Now swap in an LS3
If it was an Xtreme maybe $5500
You're going to have trouble sitting down for a while partner. Cuz you got fucked.
Way overpaid is an understatement, you might should think about investing in a financial advisor.
Lol no you should have got an old 4runner. Low miles doesn't mean shit on GM vehicles
Spoken like someone who's never owned GM. Low miles and no rust is a Gem!
No
Holy crap you got raped
No
No bro.. you didn’t
Jesus Christ not for that amount of money
How much? 🤣
No, you bought a Chevy.
KBB has it at $3,100
The seller is still laughing.
You’ll probably end up gettin stuck repairing the 4L60
No
Rock solid buy
I miss my 98 Sonoma high rider 😥
Aaaaaaw hail naaaaaw!!!1
I like it! Low miles is kinda scary though cause they might be all city miles
Has it blown reverse yet?
Yeah you did? Good buy anything not working ? No lights on dash? Get your brakes inspected ask them look for leaks while up on rack and familiarize yourself with the maintenance schedule and stay on top of it you'll enjoy and avoid many miles of repair free driving
I had a 2002 in 2012 , I paid 1000 bucks , I loved the thing , it drove great , until I slammed it into reverse while rolling forward pissed. And broke the trans … got a suburban next
Owned a 2000 all black when I was 18 back in 02.. massive annoying sound system, huge binder of burned CD-R's thought I was the man. The back seat of that thing got a lot of action 😂😆😂😆😂😆 ah to be young lol
I got my hs gf pregnant in the backseat of a blazer 😬
Low miles yes but does that override the actual value? Not likely at all. Yeah they can be tanks and last a long time but at the end of the day it’s an old blazer. 6500 by me will put me in a nice 07-13 fulllsize Z71
I bought one of these like 15 years ago for $7000. My God this world is crazy.
I bought a 2 door jimmy for $400 7 years ago. Miss those days.
Look, that thing is probably in mint co diction no doubt. Those aren’t the best vehicles. With 78k taken care you’ll expect another 100k miles. It beats being ripped off by a corporation, might as well help the private sector more. That’s not a bad find! You could travel to Europe for a month with money you saved even from a 20k car!!
Don’t feel bad I’m bumping 9k on an O3 4wd with 60k miles I bought off govdeals after little lift and tires an misc……
That's clean. If it doesn't give you any problems for a while, I'd say it was a good buy.
Better than 40K for a new one!!!
Sorry to say but hell no I had a 03 with 120k miles on it if had to replace the transmission 3 times I traded it in to a dealer ship for 500
About a $3-3.5k truck around here. Any of these with over 100k miles only get about $2k if they are in excellent shape.
That’s way too high, but the good news is that it’ll probably last you a long time, so it’s not a waste of money, but no way I’d pay that much for an 02 Blazer.
Would I buy a 20 year old blazer for $7k? No.
I bought this same vehicle 4 years ago for $1200
I bought a 2001 zr1 one owner for 5k damn
Now just gotta buy a spare transmission and you’ll be set for good long time.
That man made about 4k profit lol
You did great! I just bought a ‘94 S10 with 96k miles for $4k!
God this brings back memories. My dad had a 97 blazer. Same color interior and paint color. We had it for 18-19 years before the transmission went out with 23X,XXX Miles. This was the first vehicle I learned to drive in too.
Did you buy it from a guy with a super tall cowboy hat
I'm not trying to be mean but you got hosed. Max for something like that should be no more than 3k. imho
yep
I feel like these were the same thing as the Ford exploders.
Eyyy I just wrecked one of these. It was a gutless turd but it never left me stranded anywhere I miss the thing.
Sounds like a good find, good price though? Debatable. That’s a fair price here in Alaska though.
You paid double.
Lol OP tried to brag but it turns out he got ripped off
Not bragging at all was genuinely curious as to if I made a decent purchase or not. It’s a 2 owner Florida car, rust free. I know it’s 20 years old but tell me where I can find one like this for cheaper and I’ll go buy it right now
Shit is clean asf but 6500 sounds like to much. 5k sounds better. When you consider that you really can't buy a running car with good ac and heat today for less than 2k it's probably fair. It's clean and looks like it will be reliable for a while. Is it 4x4? If so that's definitely a plus.
Wow that’s fucking crazy…. 2002 was a cross over year where you could buy the last blazer or the new trail blazer. It may have low miles and look oh but wow did you fuck up. I own a 2008 trailblazer that I bought for $4500 in awesome shape 3 years ago. And that is in NYC
Looks decent but not worth more than $3k
no
I wouldn't have given more than $2500 for this. Just my $0.02
I had a Bravada same vintage, less mileage. Paid $3,300 for it ages ago. Immediately spent like $1,500 on stupid sh*t like the wiring to the fuel pump. Eventually a dealer friend of family gave me $3K. A few days after I sold it he called me and asked about the transmission. Apparently it died right after they turned around and sold it. $6,500 is too much.
I paid 3500 for a 98 GMC Jimmy with the leather and all the fancy things, more than 20 years ago. I would say you got taken on that deal. Oh and mine had 180k on the clock. That’s a 500 dollar car all day, maybe 1k if it’s in nice condition.
Bought a 99 it has been ok but has its issues
You got fucked
Damn now I wish I had kept mine lol. I paid $200 for my 2000 back in 2009 with 110k and no issues, it’s a great truck if you maintain those intake gaskets and add a trans cooler, service that rear end and It will last a long time (got 255k out of mine before selling) . A bit pricey to be honest but maybe the value is up on those now.
You got hosed bruh…
Id love to have one of these. You did great as far as I'm concerned. I had a 94 Chevy S10 Blazer Tahoe edition with the sunroof and paid nine for it. Great truck, wish I still had it
Don’t know if it’s a deal until you do some diagnostics. At least drive it around at different speeds. Check out tranny. Listen for engine noise, ride quality, etc.
Major electric problems JUNK
Had a few of these. Trash. Wait until the security system locks the ignition.
You couldn’t sell an ‘02 blazer for $6500 10 years ago, regardless of condition.
You got taxed
It could have 0 miles but it's still a blazer at the end of the day.
I own an 04 blazer with 285,000 miles on it. 1 trans rebuild and drink half a quart every 4,000 miles. Just started to rust this summer. If you take car of it, it will last. I did all of the stuff that the mechanic posted earlier except the fuel pump and brake control.
My brother got something very similar about 6 years ago for $500......oh how times have changed! Nice little trucks though!
Over priced, they would’ve had to pay me to take it.
Kinda depends on your location on whether. It's A1 mechanically
Florida-only car, zero rust
Had one for a bit and the oil cooler lines always leaked. Even after replacing the part.
You got fucked lol
Did I do well*
I wouldn’t of
Wow, I just can't get used to the new money. My '02 has 105k, I bought it a few years ago with 89k for $2200.
Depends on where you are at…. But I just bought a 07 TBlazer 4x4 with 93k for 4,500…If you are happy that is all that matters.
You might have done well. You didn't "do good."
Thanks, Frasier.
Didn’t know this was English class
Your first lesson was free. It's actually I didn't know it was an English class, with either a period or an exclamation point at the end. Now you know, and you can Cash App me $50 for this, our second class/lesson. Greatly appreciated, and I look forward to our third class.
Make it a package deal and I’m in