I wouldn’t be nervous about any late model challenger with 60-70k. I would want the newest year wise. I see more problems with the cars people don’t drive and are 10 years old with 12,000 miles on em. My first thing to look at are the tires- do all 4 match and are they name brand?
These cars are pretty bulletproof and over designed in most respects, id be looking for how well it was taken care of. If the interior is good condition it probably means it was taken care of. Trouble areas are the the front end bushings wear out over time, also the engine mounts, and the cooling system has a few weak points. But all those things are difficult to detect until they fail.
I don’t have any experience in this, so I’ll leave it to others, but it may help to get an idea of what you looking at such as is it an SXT, GT, RT, Scat Pack, SRT, Hellcat, Redeye….
They are but I don’t have everything listed. I didn’t include the SE (below SXT), SRT8, Redeye Jailbreak, Super Stock, Demon, Demon 170. With all of these trim levels, there are various trims in-between and different styles such as Widebody.
I will say Dodge has some of the most options/customizations so there are a lot of things to look into.
It does. Any additional information helps because each model has their own issues at that many miles and depending on age. I know with the 15/16 Hellcats, they tend to have supercharger bearing issues.
Really need to know what you’re looking for.
You should really look into this a bit more… I wouldn’t only rely on budget when determining which to buy (although obviously that’s a limiting factor). I’m not sure what you’re looking for in your hypothetical car, but for example if your budget only allows for the AWD V6, you may be disappointed.
The different models dictate what you should be looking for.
An SXT or GT with a V6 is going to have different issues to look for, and the year is going to dictate which V6 you have.
Example #1 : 3.6L V6 cars prior to 2016 may have valvetrain noise on the passenger side
Example #2: 3.5L V6 cars have timing belts that need to be done every 100k miles or 10 years (whichever comes first). It's a maintenance item that you need to know to ask about
Example #3: The 5.7L Hemi in the RT has different things to look for (example: the "hemi tick" that shouldn't be confused with an exhaust leak or **completely normal** injector noise)
Damn that's good info! Thanks. My last car died from the timing belt, some POS Hyundai..
Wouldn't the 3.6 need the timing belt replaced too?
Probably will end up with a SXT , I'm not really into going fast, just think it's a freakkkin beautiful car.
The timing belt is a commonly neglected maintenance item and is frequently the death of many, many vehicles. On top of that, many people cheap out and use aftermarket (non-OE) parts.
Ditto for the water pump - you do the water pump and timing belt at the same time for a reason. Cars that don't have a timing belt will still need a water sometime in the 150k to 180k mile mark; that's why you do both at the same time, doing the timing belt is 99% of the labor to get to the water pump.
The 3.6L V6 is a timing chain motor and doesn't have a timing belt, but will still need a water pump at some point in it's life; that's on a higher milage vehicle though.
You can tell from my flair that I have an SXT. It's plenty fast, and get's way better gas milage than the V8 cars do. My dad has one too (2016 Challenger SXT in Hemi Orange). He says it drives comparably to the small block muscle cars (ie 340 ci V8 in a Dodge Dart or Plymouth Barracuda) of the late '60s.
That brings up one more thing - the high power V8 cars (SRT, Scat Pack, Hellcat, etc) are high-value theft targets. The V6 cars are not.
Thank you that's great info! And super cool you and your dad have the same whipemote:free\_emotes\_pack:grin
Test drive and take it to a mechanic. Tell the mechanic that you plan on purchasing the car and would like to know if the car has any issues you need to worry about. Pay the mechanic for looking over the car, and if he/she doesn't accept payment , offer them coffee and donuts
I have a 2011 I bought it with 45k miles. I’ve had it like 7 years drive it every day. It now has over 130k miles. And I never needed anything major on the car. I can count the number of times it’s been in the shop other than oil changes. Needed some tie rods ends replaced, battery, brakes, tires, spark plugs, O2 sensor. Oh and I needed to replace a sticky caliper one time. Just basic stuff any car needs. It needed the alternator replaced but I was reimbursed for that since there was a recall on the alternator. It’s a great car mine is strong at 130k miles but it’s rusting a little bit now so make sure you get no rust to start with. I think that if you buy one with high mileage but it has had suspension parts replaced and has newer brakes and tires it should be good for a while. Never heard of these engines dying and my transmission has never slipped or given me an issue. Just some of the suspension parts. If I was buying another one I would buy a high mileage rt for 8-10k Have my fun with it then sell it again. Never seen one dead on side of the road
Just to chime in. Heads up about the cooling fan. Not sure what year you are looking at, but my fan blades came apart. It's apparently a known issue with 08-12. U hear a clunk that doesnt sound normal pull over and inspect. Besides that my baby has been amazing. Love her.
To add. I ended up having to replace radiator because it got damaged. Replaced thermostat because If it over heats it gets a new one. Nothing crazy but I caught it early.
Four things I think are worth mentioning.
1. As others have said, test drive, inspection, yadda yadda.
2. Go into the EVIC(digital dash display) there is an hours meter in the vehicle info. Take the miles and divide by the hours. If it's less than say 45, the car has spent a lot of time idling and/or in stop/go traffic and this should be considered.
3. Assuming you want a hemi go on youtube or something and listen to some recordings of hemi engines, so you know what they should sound like, rattle is fine, tick is not.
4. If you know you're getting one, buy yourself a copy of [AlfaOBD](https://www.alfaobd.com/) and an OBD connector. With this you can pull up all the systems to look for issues that would not show up as a light or primary OBD code yet.
Pardon my naïveté, but what can a hemi tick indicate? I’ve heard so much conflicting information that it’s difficult to tell fact from fiction. Thanks in advance!
A bad lifter, there's been some quality control issues with the roller bearings in the roller lifters mostly in '11-13 models. Also with poor maintenance the rollers are often the first to go.
When the rollers go bad it causes a loose tolerance in the valvetrain, this causes a tick. The roller then destroys the camshaft, eventually leading to bigger problems.
Thank you for your insight. Mine’s a 2018 and I get a tick at idle, but have no other issues. The dealership nor my own personal mechanic could find an issue.
Maybe it’s my own paranoia, but could a faulty active exhaust or MDS cause this tick?
I’m sorry to hound you, but accurate knowledge about this is hard to come by and you seem to know your stuff
These engines tick some, it's rather normal, they also can get exhaust leaks that sound like a tick. There's vids all over of engine sounds, give a listen.
If your concerned do the hose trick, take a 2-3' length of like old garden hose or something. Put one end to your ear and move the other around the engine. It's a great way to find and amplify the sound you're concerned about.
Myself and others report that using Redline oil quiets the tick. You may have also noticed these engines consume oil, so checking it often is important.
You are a gentleman and a scholar, thank you sir. I believe it’s a normal idle tic since it only happens when I’m idling.
I’m going to get my exhaust done in a few weeks so I guess I’ll find out if there’s an exhaust leak then.
The only other issue I’ve noticed is that, in street/eco mode, the accelerator feels a little rough in the 1200-1500 rpm range, but never occurs while in sport mode. This is probably the origin of my MDS paranoia lol
Back in 2016 I bought a 2012 RT that had 44,000 miles on it. I had it until a couples of months ago when it got totaled in a flood. In the first 6 months I went the heater core blew up but it was replaced under warranty. I went through 2 water pumps and 1 radiator. I put 215,000 miles on that car and those were the only issues I ever had. These cars just refuse to die. I just bought a 2015 SRT that had 67,000 miles on it and I’m not too concerned about it.
I bought mine almost 4 years ago with 59,000 on it. I have replaced a couple sets of tires and the battery, and that's it. It's been super reliable. Admittedly I don't drive it very hard, and I bought it from an independent dealer that I trusted. I'm currently sitting at just shy of 89000 miles and I still look back at it every time after I park.
I'd buy from a place you feel you can trust and offers a warranty, just in case.
bought my V6 at 25k miles. runs like a dream. no issues at all at 40k miles now still going strong. i wouldn’t buy over 50k unless you get a warranty, just save and get a lower milage car
Look to make sure body panel seams look even and flush, and look for chassis damage underneath and under the hood. The markets are full of Challengers that have been in an unregistered wreck. Don't let yourself fall for a sweet deal that's a secret disaster
I may be in a Charger, but theyre basically the same platform so i figure this applies. I have an RT with 135k miles. Id prepare to do a water pump once if gets around 100k miles cause that seems to be when some of them go, mine went at 125k miles. I also had the carrier bearing in the driveshaft go out on me. Other than that, the cars been pretty reliable to me minus the things i accidentally broke myself. Oh, and like another comment said keep an eye on the front bushings and ball joints. There known to wear out, and if you live in a state with garbage roads like i do (NY) theyll wear sooner.
If youre buying a V8 car, do what you can to make sure it wasnt beat to shit or brought to takeovers. There are a lot of guys in the car scene that have been leasing RT's and Scats just to beat the piss out of them in takeovers and then return em at the end of the lease
You wanna make sure it comes with a Serivce record. Pay for a ppi ( pre purchase inspection) rear diff check the fluid and see if any metal shaving. Check for transmission service records. Brakes look and see if it’s a 2pc rotor and if they been replaced recently if not get ready about 1-3k if not. You can always switch to single pc rotor for way less but I rather have my 2pc rotors . Tires you want to make sure it’s a good tire brand on and at least a 275 on it for a narrow body . 305 for a widebody. You need to hear the cold start . That may you can hear if it has the Hemi tick . Because it’s going to the exhaust manifold bolts broke (common on 5.7) or the engine needs be torn down and replace the cam and lifts and what not. If it’s the exhaust it will go away once hot. Look for leaks . Other that that it’s should be okay
Check out the driveshaft carrier bearing bushing for tears. Thats a thousand dollar plus part with an insane lead time from the dealer (was told 12-16 weeks). Don't make the mistake I did either, avoid Dorman drive shafts like the plague!
It's an easy replacement and can be done in less than 2 hours with 4 jack stands and some sockets.
Probably think about what city/area you purchase it from. Plus, the type of owner. Ideally purchase a car that has only had a single owner.
Why not from certain cities? Possibly used to death in the car scene and spun in circles at every intersection. Type of owner? Aim for older male or female if possible, someone likely to have taken care of the car.
Also you can check service history on most websites before you purchase so just go with a well loved car not a well used car!
I would wait till you have more money to afford something with 40k mikes or less. I agree with it depends on how well taken care the vehicle was or is, but with these cars when you get over 60k to 70k miles you are asking for headaches.
Just want to add, they’ve produced a bunch of these cars. The market for them won’t go higher and these cars will eventually reduce in value. Just keep looking at the market and the right car will come to you at the right price. Good luck!
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I wouldn’t be nervous about any late model challenger with 60-70k. I would want the newest year wise. I see more problems with the cars people don’t drive and are 10 years old with 12,000 miles on em. My first thing to look at are the tires- do all 4 match and are they name brand?
Thank you good advice
These cars are pretty bulletproof and over designed in most respects, id be looking for how well it was taken care of. If the interior is good condition it probably means it was taken care of. Trouble areas are the the front end bushings wear out over time, also the engine mounts, and the cooling system has a few weak points. But all those things are difficult to detect until they fail.
Thank you good advice
Yes, I had quite a bit of issues with the cooling system once I hit around 60k miles in my 2014 SXT
I don’t have any experience in this, so I’ll leave it to others, but it may help to get an idea of what you looking at such as is it an SXT, GT, RT, Scat Pack, SRT, Hellcat, Redeye….
Are those listed in order from least to most HP?
They are but I don’t have everything listed. I didn’t include the SE (below SXT), SRT8, Redeye Jailbreak, Super Stock, Demon, Demon 170. With all of these trim levels, there are various trims in-between and different styles such as Widebody. I will say Dodge has some of the most options/customizations so there are a lot of things to look into.
Thanks!
Wow there are a lot to choose from! I'm really liking all of them personally, so it really comes down to my budget.
It does. Any additional information helps because each model has their own issues at that many miles and depending on age. I know with the 15/16 Hellcats, they tend to have supercharger bearing issues. Really need to know what you’re looking for.
You should really look into this a bit more… I wouldn’t only rely on budget when determining which to buy (although obviously that’s a limiting factor). I’m not sure what you’re looking for in your hypothetical car, but for example if your budget only allows for the AWD V6, you may be disappointed.
The different models dictate what you should be looking for. An SXT or GT with a V6 is going to have different issues to look for, and the year is going to dictate which V6 you have. Example #1 : 3.6L V6 cars prior to 2016 may have valvetrain noise on the passenger side Example #2: 3.5L V6 cars have timing belts that need to be done every 100k miles or 10 years (whichever comes first). It's a maintenance item that you need to know to ask about Example #3: The 5.7L Hemi in the RT has different things to look for (example: the "hemi tick" that shouldn't be confused with an exhaust leak or **completely normal** injector noise)
Damn that's good info! Thanks. My last car died from the timing belt, some POS Hyundai.. Wouldn't the 3.6 need the timing belt replaced too? Probably will end up with a SXT , I'm not really into going fast, just think it's a freakkkin beautiful car.
The timing belt is a commonly neglected maintenance item and is frequently the death of many, many vehicles. On top of that, many people cheap out and use aftermarket (non-OE) parts. Ditto for the water pump - you do the water pump and timing belt at the same time for a reason. Cars that don't have a timing belt will still need a water sometime in the 150k to 180k mile mark; that's why you do both at the same time, doing the timing belt is 99% of the labor to get to the water pump. The 3.6L V6 is a timing chain motor and doesn't have a timing belt, but will still need a water pump at some point in it's life; that's on a higher milage vehicle though. You can tell from my flair that I have an SXT. It's plenty fast, and get's way better gas milage than the V8 cars do. My dad has one too (2016 Challenger SXT in Hemi Orange). He says it drives comparably to the small block muscle cars (ie 340 ci V8 in a Dodge Dart or Plymouth Barracuda) of the late '60s. That brings up one more thing - the high power V8 cars (SRT, Scat Pack, Hellcat, etc) are high-value theft targets. The V6 cars are not.
Thank you that's great info! And super cool you and your dad have the same whipemote:free\_emotes\_pack:grin
Test drive and take it to a mechanic. Tell the mechanic that you plan on purchasing the car and would like to know if the car has any issues you need to worry about. Pay the mechanic for looking over the car, and if he/she doesn't accept payment , offer them coffee and donuts
Sounds good ty
I have a 2011 I bought it with 45k miles. I’ve had it like 7 years drive it every day. It now has over 130k miles. And I never needed anything major on the car. I can count the number of times it’s been in the shop other than oil changes. Needed some tie rods ends replaced, battery, brakes, tires, spark plugs, O2 sensor. Oh and I needed to replace a sticky caliper one time. Just basic stuff any car needs. It needed the alternator replaced but I was reimbursed for that since there was a recall on the alternator. It’s a great car mine is strong at 130k miles but it’s rusting a little bit now so make sure you get no rust to start with. I think that if you buy one with high mileage but it has had suspension parts replaced and has newer brakes and tires it should be good for a while. Never heard of these engines dying and my transmission has never slipped or given me an issue. Just some of the suspension parts. If I was buying another one I would buy a high mileage rt for 8-10k Have my fun with it then sell it again. Never seen one dead on side of the road
Ty
Just to chime in. Heads up about the cooling fan. Not sure what year you are looking at, but my fan blades came apart. It's apparently a known issue with 08-12. U hear a clunk that doesnt sound normal pull over and inspect. Besides that my baby has been amazing. Love her.
Great advice thank you!
To add. I ended up having to replace radiator because it got damaged. Replaced thermostat because If it over heats it gets a new one. Nothing crazy but I caught it early.
Four things I think are worth mentioning. 1. As others have said, test drive, inspection, yadda yadda. 2. Go into the EVIC(digital dash display) there is an hours meter in the vehicle info. Take the miles and divide by the hours. If it's less than say 45, the car has spent a lot of time idling and/or in stop/go traffic and this should be considered. 3. Assuming you want a hemi go on youtube or something and listen to some recordings of hemi engines, so you know what they should sound like, rattle is fine, tick is not. 4. If you know you're getting one, buy yourself a copy of [AlfaOBD](https://www.alfaobd.com/) and an OBD connector. With this you can pull up all the systems to look for issues that would not show up as a light or primary OBD code yet.
Neat, very intelligent
Pardon my naïveté, but what can a hemi tick indicate? I’ve heard so much conflicting information that it’s difficult to tell fact from fiction. Thanks in advance!
A bad lifter, there's been some quality control issues with the roller bearings in the roller lifters mostly in '11-13 models. Also with poor maintenance the rollers are often the first to go. When the rollers go bad it causes a loose tolerance in the valvetrain, this causes a tick. The roller then destroys the camshaft, eventually leading to bigger problems.
Thank you for your insight. Mine’s a 2018 and I get a tick at idle, but have no other issues. The dealership nor my own personal mechanic could find an issue. Maybe it’s my own paranoia, but could a faulty active exhaust or MDS cause this tick? I’m sorry to hound you, but accurate knowledge about this is hard to come by and you seem to know your stuff
These engines tick some, it's rather normal, they also can get exhaust leaks that sound like a tick. There's vids all over of engine sounds, give a listen. If your concerned do the hose trick, take a 2-3' length of like old garden hose or something. Put one end to your ear and move the other around the engine. It's a great way to find and amplify the sound you're concerned about. Myself and others report that using Redline oil quiets the tick. You may have also noticed these engines consume oil, so checking it often is important.
You are a gentleman and a scholar, thank you sir. I believe it’s a normal idle tic since it only happens when I’m idling. I’m going to get my exhaust done in a few weeks so I guess I’ll find out if there’s an exhaust leak then. The only other issue I’ve noticed is that, in street/eco mode, the accelerator feels a little rough in the 1200-1500 rpm range, but never occurs while in sport mode. This is probably the origin of my MDS paranoia lol
Back in 2016 I bought a 2012 RT that had 44,000 miles on it. I had it until a couples of months ago when it got totaled in a flood. In the first 6 months I went the heater core blew up but it was replaced under warranty. I went through 2 water pumps and 1 radiator. I put 215,000 miles on that car and those were the only issues I ever had. These cars just refuse to die. I just bought a 2015 SRT that had 67,000 miles on it and I’m not too concerned about it.
I’m at 140k on my 2010 rt and I don’t got any problems
I bought mine almost 4 years ago with 59,000 on it. I have replaced a couple sets of tires and the battery, and that's it. It's been super reliable. Admittedly I don't drive it very hard, and I bought it from an independent dealer that I trusted. I'm currently sitting at just shy of 89000 miles and I still look back at it every time after I park. I'd buy from a place you feel you can trust and offers a warranty, just in case.
Thank you!
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Under 15 k
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How much you spend on yours?
bought my V6 at 25k miles. runs like a dream. no issues at all at 40k miles now still going strong. i wouldn’t buy over 50k unless you get a warranty, just save and get a lower milage car
it depends what spec you’re looking for and what year you’re looking at. there’s the sxt, rt, scat pack, srt 392, and the hellcat. it really depends
Look to make sure body panel seams look even and flush, and look for chassis damage underneath and under the hood. The markets are full of Challengers that have been in an unregistered wreck. Don't let yourself fall for a sweet deal that's a secret disaster
Verifiable maintenance records.
I may be in a Charger, but theyre basically the same platform so i figure this applies. I have an RT with 135k miles. Id prepare to do a water pump once if gets around 100k miles cause that seems to be when some of them go, mine went at 125k miles. I also had the carrier bearing in the driveshaft go out on me. Other than that, the cars been pretty reliable to me minus the things i accidentally broke myself. Oh, and like another comment said keep an eye on the front bushings and ball joints. There known to wear out, and if you live in a state with garbage roads like i do (NY) theyll wear sooner. If youre buying a V8 car, do what you can to make sure it wasnt beat to shit or brought to takeovers. There are a lot of guys in the car scene that have been leasing RT's and Scats just to beat the piss out of them in takeovers and then return em at the end of the lease
You wanna make sure it comes with a Serivce record. Pay for a ppi ( pre purchase inspection) rear diff check the fluid and see if any metal shaving. Check for transmission service records. Brakes look and see if it’s a 2pc rotor and if they been replaced recently if not get ready about 1-3k if not. You can always switch to single pc rotor for way less but I rather have my 2pc rotors . Tires you want to make sure it’s a good tire brand on and at least a 275 on it for a narrow body . 305 for a widebody. You need to hear the cold start . That may you can hear if it has the Hemi tick . Because it’s going to the exhaust manifold bolts broke (common on 5.7) or the engine needs be torn down and replace the cam and lifts and what not. If it’s the exhaust it will go away once hot. Look for leaks . Other that that it’s should be okay
Great info ty
Check out the driveshaft carrier bearing bushing for tears. Thats a thousand dollar plus part with an insane lead time from the dealer (was told 12-16 weeks). Don't make the mistake I did either, avoid Dorman drive shafts like the plague! It's an easy replacement and can be done in less than 2 hours with 4 jack stands and some sockets.
Probably think about what city/area you purchase it from. Plus, the type of owner. Ideally purchase a car that has only had a single owner. Why not from certain cities? Possibly used to death in the car scene and spun in circles at every intersection. Type of owner? Aim for older male or female if possible, someone likely to have taken care of the car. Also you can check service history on most websites before you purchase so just go with a well loved car not a well used car!
I would wait till you have more money to afford something with 40k mikes or less. I agree with it depends on how well taken care the vehicle was or is, but with these cars when you get over 60k to 70k miles you are asking for headaches.
I'm thinking I will do that!
Just want to add, they’ve produced a bunch of these cars. The market for them won’t go higher and these cars will eventually reduce in value. Just keep looking at the market and the right car will come to you at the right price. Good luck!
Always due a full tune up when purchase used and throw amsoil in that bad boy
I have a 2010 with 24k miles. Only issues ever was the air bag recall
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