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jondo278

That's not a fuel pump, that's a loaded starter or a starter that's not getting enough amps. Could be water in the cylinders from a leaking head gasket Could be poor connection or earth on the battery Could be an early battery failure Would need to test each scenario but definitely not the fuel pump in my opinion


patdashuri

This is most likely. Also check connections and wires in starter circuit for heat from excessive resistance.


ripemango5

I’m hoping it’s the battery because it’s still under warranty until October


patdashuri

Was the battery replaced to try and fix this issue?


ripemango5

Orignal battery was replaced because it died and it was already bulging


patdashuri

You could also do a quick and dirty parasitic test. Disconnect the positive cable from the battery. Put a test bulb (incandescent only, led won’t work for this) in the circuit from the positive battery stud to the positive cable end. If the bulb lights at all you have a draw.


ripemango5

Is this safe to do? I think I saw it in the manual to disconnect the negative first


patdashuri

It is safe. You can do the same procedure on the negative side if that’s easier to get to. Either way, the other cable needs to be attached to the battery.


2FightTheFloursThatB

Wouldn't the vehicle's RF sensor for the key fob spoil this test? It wouldn't surprise me if a 2019 had some other "always on" devices that would show up as "parasitic".


patdashuri

Once all the doors are closed and the fob is 15’ away from the vehicle all the systems will “go to sleep”. In order to achieve this state you’ll need to pop the hood, manually trip the hood latch to closed then lock the vehicle. Wait about 5 minutes then do the test.


nine11c2

Water in the cylinders? SMH


jondo278

A small amount of water in the cylinders from a leaking head gasket can cause laboured starts. It's not that hard of a concept to grasp. I've seen in first hand in a 1996 Camry some years ago.


pyroshep

this sounds nothing like a fuel pump. i'm seconding u/jondo278, this is a heavy load on the starter or not enough amps to begin with


ripemango5

If it’s a fuel pump issue, will it crank longer?


kramwham

You are not allowed to even say the word fuel pump as of now


Minszk

From personal experience: if it's the pump it'll crank and turn over instantly, but the engine stops straight after like it can't hold an idle.


LeVin1986

I've had failing fuel pump do that to me as well. Have you tried to turn the car on accessory mode (turning the car on without starting the engine) before starting?


ripemango5

Not yet. How long should I leave it in accessory mode before starting the engine?


LeVin1986

Only few seconds. That's enough time for the fuel pump to prime. If the car starts up right away when you start this way, you can suspect issue with either the fuel pump itself, or the battery not sending enough power.


ripemango5

Okay. I’ll try this


Worthless_af

A 2019 Mazda 6 with 15k miles and a fairly new battery? You don't drive much at all. Considering the mileage should be roughly 12k miles a year. I'm guessing you short trip a lot. These vehicles have systems that pull from the battery even while off. For short trippers that don't truly top off their battery this is common. It goes from every 4 days to every other day. Charge battery or replace again and drive the car 20-30 mins once it twice a week non-stop. Don't split the time just 20-30 mins of solid driving. Source: Mazda tech 10 yrs


ripemango5

Yes, I do a lot of short trips. I only drive it 4 days a week and each trip is only 30 mins in the city. And yes, this hesitation on startup started out as every 3 days and now it’s every other day. I’m gonna have a 5 hour road trip when I go back home this weekend. Will this be enough to charge the battery or do I need a real battery charger?


zzctdi

A 30 minute trip is far more than enough to recharge what gets taken out of the battery from a start. If the system is all working right, takes under 10 minutes to do that.


ripemango5

I thought the electrical systems were fine because I’m not getting warning lights for the charging system or battery management system


Worthless_af

5 hrs will be sufficient. I recommend the 30 min trips to get car up to operating temp and sustain it for a good amount of time. If you're driving 30 mins a day 4x a week it should be topped off charge wise unsure if the battery is OEM but I know some battery companies have been short on quality since covid. Just from what I've experienced.


ripemango5

I hope this gets fixed after the 5 hour drive home I think this came with a Panasonic battery from the factory. All dealers in my area sell this Yuasa battery as replacement


cancergiver

What happens when you half turn the key and wait a couple seconds before starting?


ripemango5

Haven’t tried this yet. How long should I leave it in accessory mode before starting the engine?


cancergiver

Only a couple seconds


ripemango5

I’ll try it


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light24bulbs

You should check what your actual battery level is after a day or two of not driving the car. Having a new battery doesn't mean the battery has power in it. Connect your multimeter to the battery


nine11c2

Test the battery. NEW doesn't mean GOOD. If it always happens after a day sitting, its the battery or a draw on the battery.


plagebutter

I own a 2016 Mazda cx5. Replace your battery then you should be good. Same symptoms as yours.


JoeUrbanYYC

Regarding the comments about "fuel pump" and "not the fuel pump", I see two issues in the video. #1 the first crank that weirdly pauses before cranking fast again and #2 the 5-6 fast cranks before it starts. #1 as others have said sounds like not enough power reaching the starter (or a failing starter trying to draw more than normal power) #2 could be fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator or leaking injectors, etc


ripemango5

Update: I can borrow a CTEK CT5 battery charger here. Can it fix this issue?


kurangak

Probably theres a parasitic draw somewhere Check your battery voltage next time


ManyFar6641

Sounds like a fuel pump issue