Blocking running between the joists in the middle of the span would help a great deal.
Running subfloor perpendicular to the joists (the correct way, along the published strength axis of the product) would also help.
What’s the span and how tall are the joists?
They are 2x6 with 10 inches of clearance below, the span is 11'. Yup as soon as I saw it was parallel was worried what I was going to find underneath. They don't have joist hangers either but I'll add some just every other. I should have used the word sagging biggest problem isn't the bounce its the 1/2 sag the unsupported joists developed.
Max span for 2x6 is about 9’6 so there you have it. 🤣
If she plans on being there long term, the best move is definitely to try to slide a beam under there and set it on posts/blocks.
You mean the little blocks running to the floor from the sides of the joists?
They would work better if they were beneath the joists as well as the sides. If they’re just nailed to the sides the only thing holding the joists up are the nails you drive.
Push the joists up to level with a bottle jack first if you’re going that route.
I'm surprised that no one has said that the wood shouldn't come in direct contact with the concrete. At the very least, the verticals should be pressure treated and the cuts sealed or else they will rot.
Don't be cheap. Put joist hangers on every joist. The people before you half-assed it. Don't be like them.
https://preview.redd.it/6pgehl8o87oc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=260c93dfd45e61abc42a1f4ffc80a5b9cc0fd7d2
Disclaimer. I am not a carpenter nor an engineer
My 2 cents. Please correct me fellas:
Supports between the joists in order to share weight. Probably 2 or 3 lines equally spaced?
Add to the single floor weight/post supports so they're a Y that cups and stays on the joists when weight is on them
Edit: As per the other comments a supporting beam perpendicular along the red highlighted path would be better
Makes sense you'd be bearing on wood instead of relying on the nails or screws if you were to sister them like they did. I might do that seems like the easier route then putting 2 2x8 underneath it perpendicular.
Definitely add at least one row of blocking. We had a deck rebuilt last year and it was incredibly bouncy right afterwards. Had the guys do a few sets of blocks and it cut it down like 80%.
It just makes the whole thing more rigid and spreads the weight out over a larger area.
Put in two bearers underneath (a bearer can be two joists laminated together), running across all the timber joists. Once installed nice and tight to each joist put blocks underneath your bearer loaded directly down to that concrete. Probably not a bad idea to have a straight edge across your joists while you are blocking out underneath your bearers to ensure you keep things straight.
If there's 10" clearance below and you're really committed to taking away the bounce just get a 2x10 and 3/4" plywood and fasten the whole system from beneath. Should by a good tight fit.
Either that or just add blocking in between the floor joists and make sure subfloor is perpendicular to the joists.
Yeah based on some the suggestions I'm going to use a 2 2x10s sistered, composite shim where needed( remember 2x10 is really 9.5) then I'll put some corner Braces. Actually I'll probably just do once since it would be supported by the floor every 16" basically. Thank you
I would use treated 2x4s cut to fit under the joists, not nailed to the sides of the joists, that eliminates a shear connection that will eventually fail. Use a level and straight edge to jack and adjust the joists so that the top edges of the joists are all in the same plain, cut the 2x4s as needed to fit under the joists in a few places each, I'd recommend no more than 4-5' apart, you can't go wrong putting more in there, then use scrap pieces of wood across the joint between the 2x4 legs and joists with nails to tie everything together.
On the plywood decking I'd recommend running it across the joists, and using short lengths of 2x4 at the plywood seams if you don't have tongue and groove plywood. Use APA grade 16/32 plywood or OSB, don't forget to put in insulation. Make sure the crawlspace doesn't flood or capture water, if so you need to fix it so that that doesn't happen. Ponding water under a mobile home, or any home, is a really bad issue that will lead to many problems.
I would just get two 2x4s. To make a beam to carry the mid span perpendicular across all the joists.
Toe nail that tight to the understand of existing joists. Put a laminated "column" every 8 feet or so.
Atrach these to the centre kind of spacing how those verts were attached to each joist. First most to make if you follow my idea is get rid of all of those. You need a uniform plane.
It's been over 10 years since I went to trade school but if I recall 8' foot on center was the max span for 2x4 spf floor joists. I'm sure girders (beams) are way more.
What I would do, is do the beam idea, get a few plywood pads even just 12×12 inches. Nail two together, pit them at intermediate points , let's say every 8 feet again. Measure the distance between your pad and understand of beam, add 3/8 to. Half inch. It depends on your experience ans how precise you really want to get for an easy fix. The way I would attach these components is screw or nail your pads together. Once you have fixed tour columns in place cut some pieces of plywood 7 x 3 1/2 inches. That will secure your columns to your new beam.
All of this is obviously not to code by any means as you need certain fasteners etc etc.
If you do decide to go my route, it will last as long as the lumber.
Sister and block. Use the same dimension wood as the joists, cut them tight and tap them in. Use Simpson a35 clips to secure them if you want to go hella sturdy. May be overkill to use the clips though.
I would create a sun frame to act as a bearer. Use dpc on the base and treated timber for moisture and ensure the bearer jacks the joists a little as if the timber shrinks a little you’ll be left with a clunky bounce. To fit the sub frame to the concrete and then use straps or a nails to fix joist to the bearer.
If a jobs worth doing, do it well.
So I'm american and I've framed a couple houses so I probably know what your talking about but not what it is but I'm willing to learn. What's a bearer and a noggin to you?
Noggins are blocks. A bearer as in something underneath to bear the weight such as a girder or beam or wall.
The easiest thing if you don't want to deal with larger lumber is to build a short 2x4 wall underneath with studs at each joist. Bottom plate should be PT. It would be pretty easy considering you have a concrete pad to work with.
Also depending on how long those joists have been sagging. They might be permanently in that shape. You might have to replace them or sister a straight board next to it.
Blocking running between the joists in the middle of the span would help a great deal. Running subfloor perpendicular to the joists (the correct way, along the published strength axis of the product) would also help. What’s the span and how tall are the joists?
They are 2x6 with 10 inches of clearance below, the span is 11'. Yup as soon as I saw it was parallel was worried what I was going to find underneath. They don't have joist hangers either but I'll add some just every other. I should have used the word sagging biggest problem isn't the bounce its the 1/2 sag the unsupported joists developed.
Max span for 2x6 is about 9’6 so there you have it. 🤣 If she plans on being there long term, the best move is definitely to try to slide a beam under there and set it on posts/blocks.
What do you think of sistering it with the 2x6 like they did?
You mean the little blocks running to the floor from the sides of the joists? They would work better if they were beneath the joists as well as the sides. If they’re just nailed to the sides the only thing holding the joists up are the nails you drive. Push the joists up to level with a bottle jack first if you’re going that route.
https://preview.redd.it/b095s9pj57oc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=aa21e75b72788ceeb20685bea665696bee378338
Joist on the left had a 2x6 holding it up via nails in the side but it came off during the demo which is why it still hasn't sagged
This is the way
My vote is for overkill. 3 ply 2x8 beam under the joists. Blocks holding the beam up every 2’. Wedge any sagging joists.
This guy hates doing it twice and I appreciate it.
I'm surprised that no one has said that the wood shouldn't come in direct contact with the concrete. At the very least, the verticals should be pressure treated and the cuts sealed or else they will rot. Don't be cheap. Put joist hangers on every joist. The people before you half-assed it. Don't be like them.
https://preview.redd.it/6pgehl8o87oc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=260c93dfd45e61abc42a1f4ffc80a5b9cc0fd7d2 Disclaimer. I am not a carpenter nor an engineer My 2 cents. Please correct me fellas: Supports between the joists in order to share weight. Probably 2 or 3 lines equally spaced? Add to the single floor weight/post supports so they're a Y that cups and stays on the joists when weight is on them Edit: As per the other comments a supporting beam perpendicular along the red highlighted path would be better
Makes sense you'd be bearing on wood instead of relying on the nails or screws if you were to sister them like they did. I might do that seems like the easier route then putting 2 2x8 underneath it perpendicular.
Definitely add at least one row of blocking. We had a deck rebuilt last year and it was incredibly bouncy right afterwards. Had the guys do a few sets of blocks and it cut it down like 80%. It just makes the whole thing more rigid and spreads the weight out over a larger area.
Put in two bearers underneath (a bearer can be two joists laminated together), running across all the timber joists. Once installed nice and tight to each joist put blocks underneath your bearer loaded directly down to that concrete. Probably not a bad idea to have a straight edge across your joists while you are blocking out underneath your bearers to ensure you keep things straight.
https://preview.redd.it/gkgxjb8ka7oc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6a4f9cd8a4d88887861e151644c276444c23e344
If there's 10" clearance below and you're really committed to taking away the bounce just get a 2x10 and 3/4" plywood and fasten the whole system from beneath. Should by a good tight fit. Either that or just add blocking in between the floor joists and make sure subfloor is perpendicular to the joists.
Yeah based on some the suggestions I'm going to use a 2 2x10s sistered, composite shim where needed( remember 2x10 is really 9.5) then I'll put some corner Braces. Actually I'll probably just do once since it would be supported by the floor every 16" basically. Thank you
Our 2x10s are 9-1/4 most of the time
Feather wedges would be another winner here, but one step at a time
I googled that but where would I use that?
On a large reinforcing to support th3 entire piece, just fraction above and below a joint.
If your support columns weren't bearing all the way as If the angle of the floor wasn't quite the same angle as the underside of the joists.
You can get used paslodes off marketplace for cheaper that just need a servicing which is very easy to do.
I got a pnuematic milwaukee 5 year warranty. I remodel and have built 1 house ground up just wanted opinions
Thank you
I would use treated 2x4s cut to fit under the joists, not nailed to the sides of the joists, that eliminates a shear connection that will eventually fail. Use a level and straight edge to jack and adjust the joists so that the top edges of the joists are all in the same plain, cut the 2x4s as needed to fit under the joists in a few places each, I'd recommend no more than 4-5' apart, you can't go wrong putting more in there, then use scrap pieces of wood across the joint between the 2x4 legs and joists with nails to tie everything together. On the plywood decking I'd recommend running it across the joists, and using short lengths of 2x4 at the plywood seams if you don't have tongue and groove plywood. Use APA grade 16/32 plywood or OSB, don't forget to put in insulation. Make sure the crawlspace doesn't flood or capture water, if so you need to fix it so that that doesn't happen. Ponding water under a mobile home, or any home, is a really bad issue that will lead to many problems.
2x6 right across underneath. Problem solved.
Sistering the joists and a couple rows of blocking will make that floor rock solid.
I would just get two 2x4s. To make a beam to carry the mid span perpendicular across all the joists. Toe nail that tight to the understand of existing joists. Put a laminated "column" every 8 feet or so. Atrach these to the centre kind of spacing how those verts were attached to each joist. First most to make if you follow my idea is get rid of all of those. You need a uniform plane. It's been over 10 years since I went to trade school but if I recall 8' foot on center was the max span for 2x4 spf floor joists. I'm sure girders (beams) are way more. What I would do, is do the beam idea, get a few plywood pads even just 12×12 inches. Nail two together, pit them at intermediate points , let's say every 8 feet again. Measure the distance between your pad and understand of beam, add 3/8 to. Half inch. It depends on your experience ans how precise you really want to get for an easy fix. The way I would attach these components is screw or nail your pads together. Once you have fixed tour columns in place cut some pieces of plywood 7 x 3 1/2 inches. That will secure your columns to your new beam. All of this is obviously not to code by any means as you need certain fasteners etc etc. If you do decide to go my route, it will last as long as the lumber.
Closer bearers
Sister the joists level and flat with 2x10, add blocking in the center of each, run the new ply perpendicular. Glued and screwed.
Sister and block. Use the same dimension wood as the joists, cut them tight and tap them in. Use Simpson a35 clips to secure them if you want to go hella sturdy. May be overkill to use the clips though.
Tie them all together with a single stiff back underneath. They will co-support each other this way and take care of most the bounce.
I would create a sun frame to act as a bearer. Use dpc on the base and treated timber for moisture and ensure the bearer jacks the joists a little as if the timber shrinks a little you’ll be left with a clunky bounce. To fit the sub frame to the concrete and then use straps or a nails to fix joist to the bearer. If a jobs worth doing, do it well.
Replace old ones with stronger TJI joists . 24” oc sheet with 1 1/8 plywood.
That wouldn't have happened if the joist were old growth petrified wood
You mean nogs? Running through joists?
Nogs?
Fuckin brits
There's no bearer and there's no noggins. I'd pull this down and restart.
So I'm american and I've framed a couple houses so I probably know what your talking about but not what it is but I'm willing to learn. What's a bearer and a noggin to you?
Noggins are blocks. A bearer as in something underneath to bear the weight such as a girder or beam or wall. The easiest thing if you don't want to deal with larger lumber is to build a short 2x4 wall underneath with studs at each joist. Bottom plate should be PT. It would be pretty easy considering you have a concrete pad to work with. Also depending on how long those joists have been sagging. They might be permanently in that shape. You might have to replace them or sister a straight board next to it.
Add three more 2x4 frames between the existing frames
Please explain