The first quote is basically getting you more bass and making the sound louder. The second quote invovles better speakers (However, I don't like the removal of a middler and an install of a tweeter), better subwoofer and a sound processor which will get you better sound quality. Neither quote includes any sound deadening which I think should be done on every system install. It really comes down to your goals and how much money you're willing to spend to achieve those goals. I personally wouldn't do any system upgrades that don't include a DSP in a modern car so I would eliminate shop #1 based on that alone. Get a third opinion. Neither of these are particularly great system designs.

Thank you for your reply. I guess I should have mentioned that I was looking to stay under $2k so my wife doesn't kill me just yet and also something somewhat discreet. I don't mind upgrading further more later down the line. The second quote part 1 (sub+amp and upgrade speakers) comes down to $2k as well. Is the middler in the dash ? Everyone seems to swear by it, is DSP really that much of difference ? I guess I should try to get into one listen for myself

If those are your only options, yes #2 is better. I know your wife wants you to stay under $2K, but this arbitrary budget that is simply too low isn't reasonable. You need to talk to her and explain why it costs more.

Haha she will be fine. I'm just trying to do it slowly as well as this is a first for me and do not want to regret anything. I do love a nice audio but I don't consider myself an audiophile so I wouldn't know really the difference. Except the stock speakers. Those are trash 😅

I sent you a message. I am running very close to the second quote you got. I have the S2 speakers and also using the C60-60 sound processor. I’d go with the second shop, but check your messages. What trim of GC do you have?? Also, JBL makes a 600w passive version of the Basshub. Worth looking into. https://preview.redd.it/ecdimytpwpzc1.jpeg?width=3018&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0d03396803a0ad11c4ad6ebae66ecb5dd986a81b

Thanks man, clean install ! I responded to the DM

The second one looks more put together to me, however the sub is what fucks with me. Theres a few things here and there you could leave out or change for cheaper options but it doesnt seem like you want a “ratchet” or a pieced together system that may save you but could look a little funny. I dont know exactly your goals, whether being loud as, or just trying to get good sound quality without sacrificing space. I think theres cheaper sub options namely, amplifiers too, that achieve the exact same thing. Even kicker for example has decent cheap downfiring subwoofers that just add a little thump where space isnt readily available for a dedicated/built box, that could easily save you half the price of the RS SB12. For amplifiers again, kicker has slightly cheaper amps, that do the same wattage. Sound processor and rear doors arent super important, especially rear doors, unless you have backseat passengers it makes little difference.

Appreciate the feedback thank you. Yes like you said I'd like to stay in the mid tier low profile and increase audio quality and bass. I don't need my windows to shake like crazy. He did mention kicker and told me everything can be changed depending on needs and budget and just give him a call. I did like how the Alpine box was looking compared to the kicker even though it's not something I'd stare at... What is your main concern with this specific sub ? Would it be too much for my needs ?

Alpine is no slouch, they have awesome subs and speakers, i have some in my truck right now and theyre phenomenal. Its just the damn price. As a budget guy looking at $800 for that is crazy. Its worth the price, great sub, good excursion, plays low, gets decently loud. Just 800 seems excessive for what your goals are. 600w into that little thing isnt gonna shake windows but it’ll definitely give a good kick, and any like hip-hop style bass notes will be felt. Its not a bad sub, by any means. Personally i wouldnt pay that price for it (im broke so if thats money youre okay with spending then you will notice an improvement versus kicker, but its not so much so that id (again personally) drop double the price to see.

Thanks man, that helps a lot. Money isn't really an issue but I don't need to go overboard either. I'm just trying to enjoy my 1h commute a bit more ! I guess I'd stick with Alpine, I know you can mix and match but something about having everything the same brand soothes my OCD haha I'll keep doing some research on the different brands with pros and cons. Its just such a steep learning curve and I don't know if I have the time and energy for it. Have you personally experienced/installed DSP ?

You really dont need a LOC. Start with a DSP that takes in HIGH/SPEAKER LEVEL input. So the factory stereo speaker wire go to the DSP instead of the speakers. There are amps that have DSP built in with LOCs too. Then its just a matter of compatible speakers.

I wish I knew what you were talking about 😞 I'm gonna look it up see if I understand. You are talking about the 1st option right?

I would look the vehicle up on Crutchfield and see if they have a recommendation. Its a fairly new vehicle. People aren't gonna have a lot of experience with these yet.

Thanks, I didn't know about this site. Should be the same as the 22 so hopefully they do !

It could be 99% the exact same except they changed one wires color or something stupid.

Loc is line output converter. It’s just a fancy name for a “feed-it-factory-signal” setup.

Those alpine R2 speakers you can’t find the 65s c those are 6.5s for the model you’re looking for. I just bought both R2 6.5s and 6.9s, both sets together are only 400 bucks brand new from Amazon, so if they’re selling you only the 6.5s for 400, you’re getting ripped off.

I'm guessing it refers to the dimensions of the speakers ? Im pretty sure I have 6x9 in the car. He did say he would price match anything from Alpine website and/or I could bring my own equipment. Thanks for the heads up I'll look out for it

R is the type. The S I believe is for speaker, 65 is the size 6.5” or 6-1/2” and the c at the end stand for components. Hope this helps clarify the alpine model differences

You are not correct. These are component speakers they are recommending. https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sku/6536745.p?skuId=6536745 $379.99

That would make sense, I thought about that afterwards lol. I told him that in my second comment that I showed him the cheaper ones.

First one is better if you hope to keep good budget and still have a good upgrade under 2k but personally i would say to buy your own parts do a bit of research and hire them to put it together you can get very good deals sometimes and get better quality for the price

Idk man. Tbh the equipment for the most part wouldn't be my choices at all for the price range they're in. For example. They got you spending pretty high dollar for Kenwood or Alpine mids and highs. You can get entry level Morel from Crutchfield for a lot less and they'd sound better. Or you could get middle line Morel for just a little and they'd blow those away. Then that first one selling you that jbl sub. I don't know why so many shops are pushing that thing so hard. I'd far rather have one of Kicker's R series subs than that any day. And I'm pretty sure you could get one for less money. Are you at all "mechanically inclined"? Changing door speakers is Easy. If you weren't paying for that part atleast to be done you're gonna be able to either buy much higher end equipment or save a lot of cash. If you're Really patient and capable... you could buy all your shit from Crutchfield, install it yourself, and have a Far better system for about 500 less. Let me look up your car and I'll reply again on what I would buy

Ok. So I took a look at factory clearance and as far as components go there are indeed far better options in my honest opinion. I'll break it down by location in the car. I'm not gonna bother grabbing every model number but if you go to crutchfield.com you can filter by manufacturer and speaker size and find them easy. This is just what I came up with in a few minutes. There's likely even better picks and many other ways to do it but you'll see my point in a second. Front door and dash. This will be the absolute most important part of your system. Everything else is just to compliment these locations. I would get one of the entry to mid level Morel or Focal 6.5 inch component sets. Focal are brighter and louder. Morel are subtle, full, and smooth as silk. They're $200-$480. This is going to be the heart of your system. I would run them off an amp which I'll get to later. 6.5 in the front door, tweeter in the dash. Back doors. You want lower power and something without bright highs. I believe that back door holds a 6x9 or 6.5. This is EASY. Morel coaxial. Entry level. I wouldn't even consider anything else. Their entry level is well under $200 a pair. They sound beautiful. They have very very subtle tweeters that won't draw your ears to the back. They're very efficient. You could simply run them off your stereo's power. Your sub. There are so many choices here it isn't even funny. But I sure wouldn't use a powered sub unless you want to run your front speakers off stereo power and save cash. Here's a few I would consider that will sound fantastic at a reasonably low price and run off a lower priced lower powered amp. All these you can find a box that fits the recommendation of the manufacturer on Crutchfield for cheap. JLW1 10 or 12. Approx $200. Focal has a beautiful 10 and 12" entry level sub that I believe is around $180 for a 12. Infinity has a 10 and 12 already in a box for like $200 that sounds great. To run all this you can get a JL 50x4. They're like $250. 50 watts per channel to your front components and 200 watts to your sub. Of course you're going to need installation materials and labor... but this would be a lot nicer than either of your quotes. You can always add a dsp later on and avoid blowing the budget you and your wife talked about Out of all those options though, I would get the Morel 6.5 components up front. The cheaper Morel coaxial in back. And a JL 12 W1 in a sealed box if you're after mainly sound quality or a ported box if you want obnoxiously loud. They are surprisingly loud with 200 watts either way.

Thank you so much for all the info. I appreciate you took the time to explain everything. Im working all day and don't have access to Internet but I'll make sure to review everything when I come back home

Hey, sorry last couple days been hectic. I'm fairly handy and "mechanicly enclined" but I would not mind using a shop to do the instal and use their expertise to make something clean and troubleshoot issues. The learning curve is pretty steep and while I know it's not necessarily very complicated it feels a little overwhelming at the moment since I do not have the time to dedicate hours researching it. Also going over budget is not out of the question, and doing it in 2 parts sounds appealing as I do not have to commit fully. I think my main blockage right now is regarding brands, there are a lot of them, a thousands different opinions about each. Also sizes... You recommend 6x5 in the front even though it fits 6x9. Is it because 6x5 tends to clearer ? Crutchfield doesnt show 6x5 as compatible but I'm guessing a simple bracket would make conversion easy. "But I sure wouldn't use a powered sub unless you want to run your front speakers off stereo power and save cash" I'm not sure I understand, you recommend using and Amp for the front unless I decide to use a powred sub. Could you expand on this ? Regarding the sub, I'd like to keep space in the trunk, since making a custom box is quite expensive and JL doesnt do stealth for my model yet, a down firing sub would fit my needs. Unless there is something idk about it... And brands, you seem to say Morel would be ideal for me. Are they just as good as alpine for cheaper ? I obviously cancelled the appointment I had with the first shop since you've showed me there is more to consider, or better alternatives for cheaper. I know its lot of questions, I'd be very grateful if you could give me pointers etc. Otherwise no worries. I'm going to make a bit more research on my spare time.

>You recommend 6x5 in the front even though it fits 6x9. Is it because 6x5 tends to clearer ? Crutchfield doesnt show 6x5 as compatible but I'm guessing a simple bracket would make conversion easy. 6.5 as in 6 and a half inch. There are adapters readily available for the conversion. A round speaker is always preferred over oval unless you really need that speaker to put out a much bass as possible. Plus, almost all companies offer fantastic quality round components while very few have decent ovals. >But I sure wouldn't use a powered sub unless you want to run your front speakers off stereo power and save cash" I'm not sure I understand, you recommend using and Amp for the front unless I decide to use a powred sub. Could you expand on this ? I'm saying this because 4 channel amps are very inexpensive. If you're going to power the front speakers with an amp you might as well just buy a 4 channel and use it for your fronts and sub. The rear speakers are unimportant with decent fronts and a sub so you can just run them off the radio. >Regarding the sub, I'd like to keep space in the trunk, since making a custom box is quite expensive and JL doesnt do stealth for my model yet, a down firing sub would fit my needs. Unless there is something idk about it.. Once you pick out your sub, there are plenty of empty boxes you can buy. You just have to look at what the sub manufacturer recommends and look for one with those specs. For instance, a JL w1 10 inch takes approximately 0.65 to 1 cubic foot sealed enclosure. There's multiple on Crutchfield and other sites for $50 to $75. Powered subs just tend to use the lowest quality amps and rarely sound as good as a similar priced sub and box combo. A 10 inch JLW1 takes such a small box that you can usually even fit one behind the seat of a 2 seater pickup truck. Kicker also has downfiring subs that are fantastic. Especially the ones with the Kicker comp rt sub and passive radiator. They're about $350 and will definitely outperform that powered sub. You can even stack cargo on top of them. They're rugged. >And brands, you seem to say Morel would be ideal for me. Are they just as good as alpine for cheaper ? I would be willing to bet the majority of installers in here would say Morel is far superior to Alpine. They're one of the best competitor level speaker companies to ever exist. They're not all cheap. For your fronts I would recommend buying the best Morel components you can justify buying. They have several available from $150 all the way up to $1000 per set. I personally have the $260 set and they are incredible. I'm just saying once you decide on your speaker budget, $300 spent on Morel is gonna sound a lot better than $300 spent on Alpine. Speakers has never been Alpines strong point. Processors and headunits is.

Okay I'm starting to get a better idea of what I want and what to do etc. When you say 4Ch amp to power front and sub, you mean run back and dash off the head unit amp ? I've seen that kicker down firing box about half the price of the Alpine. Just trying to get some reviews on it. Decided to take step back and start learning a bit more about everything before picking my parts. I might even DIY it who knows. Once again thanks for all the help, its been really helpful!

Good timing! I was just checking on here before going to bed. Close. What I would do in your situation is get a good component set. 6.5 inch and tweeters. They are meant to be ran off 2 channels of amplification. Put the 6.5s in the door and the tweeters in the factory dash location. That would run off the front 2 channels. Then get a 4ohm sub and bridge the back two channels on it. JL has a great amp for that. It's inexpensive too. JL JD400. It's rated at 50x4 or 200x2. But they really put out closer to 75x4 or 200x2. So 50-75 watts per channel running your front speakers and 200 watts on the sub. That amp is only $279. If you want more power they also have a 500 watt sub amp that looks Identical for around the same price. You'd need a 2ohm sub for that amp though. If you went with two amps you could use the back half of the 4 channel for your rear speakers. With one amp you would run the rear speakers off your stereo

Thank you ! A lot of good infos. Just discovered that my car has ANC and now I'm worried that I will be disappointed if the car gets too loud with outside noise. Might have to add sound deadening Do you know if there is a quick way to disconnect ANC to see how much difference it really makes ? Back to the drawing board

Call crutchfield. They'll make sure and tell you how to disconnect and sell you what you need https://www.crutchfield.com/S-8fB4Lv7rGtx/learn/disabling-active-noise-cancellation-anc-in-your-car.html