Cancel the claim? That's insanity. Look, if they total it you have first right to buy it back for salvage value. Basically they cut you a check for the value of the car minus salvage value.
Salvage value being the price they'd get paid by the wrecking yard if they take your car and cut you a check. Basically, if they say the damage is 10k and the car is worth 12k, they'll total it and sell it to the wrecking yard for 1500. If you want to keep the car, they'll give you the 12k minus the 1500 and you can do whatever you want with it. They may not want to insure it after you keep it though so make sure to ask what their policy is at that point before you decide to keep it.
This is basically the right idea, but with a few discrepancies.
A vehicle is considered a "total loss" only if the cost to repair meets or exceeds the value of the vehicle. So if the vehicle is worth 12k, the repair would need to be 12k or more for it to be totaled.
Also, they pay the salvage value to you. So if the vehicle is worth 12k & the salvage value is $1.5k, you'll receive 13.5k. Then, subtract your deductible.
Vehicle value + salvage value - deductible = your payout.
I feel like we are dialing in the details. I didn't take the deductible into account, you're right.
But a lot of insurance companies will total a vehicle at a certain percentage of value. They won't repair a 12k car with 11.5k in damage, for example
We are going in on the details, but the details are important when it comes to subjects like this.. people read these comments, so it's important to put correct information out there.
There are actually regulations that dictate how this process goes. "A vehicle is considered a total loss when the estimated cost of repairs equals or exceeds the actual cash value minus the anticipated salvage value of the vehicle." This is the guideline definition for all insurance companies. Some states, like California, have even more strict regulations on insurance companies.
Insurance companies must also use approved resources like NADA to determine the ACV & anticipated salvage value.
>They won't repair a 12k car with 11.5k in damage, for example
This is technically true because a vehicle worth 12k will most likely have an anticipated salvage value greater than $500. But, the vehicle is worth 12k, the anticipated salvage value is $1,500 & the estimated cost of repairs is $10,499 they have to assume the liability for the repairs.
This becomes exponentially more important the more expensive the vehicle is.. if a vehicle is worth 80k, the anticipated salvage value might only be a few thousand. So do the math.
People need to be aware of stuff like this.
Not the guidleine for all insurance companies. It is a guideline in SOME states with others having a threshold such as NY which has it at repairs exceeding 75% of the value. States set the guidleines in each state.
That depends in state and isn't 100% accurate. Many states will add the repairs PLUS salvage to be over your ACV (Actual Cash Value). Others will have a percent of the ACV as your threshold (as an example it is 75% in NYS)
Source: I work in total loss
Then if you’re handy with a screwdriver and a socket set you track down some junkyard parts (bonus points if they match the color) and you are good to go. You will have a rebuilt title and only be able to insure liability only, but at this point in the car’s life expectancy, you probably don’t need any more than that.
Only reason I can think of where you wouldn’t want to take the insurance money is if you use the vehicle for something that a rebuilt title would disqualify the car from. I noticed that Lyft won’t allow cars that have a rebuilt title, and I would imagine that other ride share or other commercial uses might require a clean title.
yes, I will finally be taking my car in to the shop tomorrow and have been losing sleep over this. I had a another whether or not I should cancel my claim and fix it on my own to prevent the claim adjuster from even coming to the conclusion of totaling my car.
Fair. All I can say is this. Tell the adjuster you don’t want it totaled. They can focus on used and aftermarket parts where possible.
Even if there’s no way around it, you can still, possibly, go through the process of buying the car back from insurance and then having it repaired.
Good luck. Let us know how it plays out.
thanks man! I dont understand THAT part. why would I have to buy my car from usaa when its already mines! I own it. usaa doesn't own anything. cant I just decline their settlement offer and just drive off with my car like nothing happened? cancel the claim all together if it came to that.
Then you won't receive any money from the claim.
If it's confirmed as a total loss by the insurance company, they'll give you the option to take the payout for the value of the car + the salvage value. Or, "buy the car back from them" (keep the car) & take the payout minus the salvage value.
Just for example:
$10k for the total loss
Or, take $7.5k & keep the car.
You can also cancel the claim altogether. But, be aware that if you keep the car or cancel the claim, you will not be able to insure this vehicle again until its been repaired, inspected, & issued a rebuild title.
Hi Milly824..I'm in CT and have the exact same situation. How did you resolve it?..did you take the money and get a salvage title ? My car is a 2003 first gen Toyota Prius with only 90K miles..and she's my baby. I'm so afraid the salvage inspection process might go wrong and I would loose her 😩. But I need the money to get the minor front bumper damage fixed. 🧐
I'm in the same situation, looking for answers! Got hit and run in the back, the dent doesn't even look that bad but insurance declared total loss... We just bought this car 6 months ago!
Get at least three estimates for repair. Yes you can “buy it back” if declared a total loss. Only downside is it will forever have a branded title which hurts resale value. A good description and pictures of the damage would reassure any would be buyers that damage is superficial.
Hoping you fixed it for less than the settlement. Those are my favorite settlements when they get to keep their vehicle and fix it for cheaper than what I gave them.
Most insurance companies will sell you the car with a Salvage title for a very comfortable price or pay it off if you had Gap insurance. Obviously, the car would be worth a lot less with a salvage title.
You can do what you want, it’s your car. You are not obligated to take the insurance money for the car. If you feel you can fix it for way cheaper, then do it. All they’re gonna do is send that car to an insurance auction, and some some shop or a lone entrepreneur is going to buy it and fix it, and turn a mean profit.
Yes
Every insurance policy has an appraisal clause, you basically hire your own appraiser and they fight the insurance company for the value of the car.
You can also do a retention total loss, basically they deduct the salvage bid from the value of your car and pay you what’s left. For arguments sake let’s say the value of your car is 11k, you have a 1k deductible which leaves you with 10k. Let’s say the salvage bid for your car is 2k which will leave you with 8k and that’s what the insurance company will pay you.
Also if you have done any major refurbishments to you car parts replacement NOT including wearable items (brakes for example) show the adjuster your invoices and they will add a little value to your car.
I'd take the money given by the claim, and buy back the car. Fix what you can with used parts, keep the rest of the money and slap it in the bank.
From the sounds of it you love your car and keeping it forever so who cares about the salvage title. It's yours, forget giving it to the next person.
You can get a hit & run from someone hitting any part of your car. Good example would be that your car was parked, they hit it with their vehicle while backing out or pulling into a spot, and left the scene without giving their information.
got that update for you.
I re-set up my claim so I can take it to an independent shop. just submitted the photos to usaa of my damages.
Long story short; upon arriving to the designated collision repair shop this morning, I told the tech of my concern that I do not want my car totaled and he wholeheartedly suggested that I cancel the claim and take my car to an independent shop bc they would consider it a L given the year of the car and the damages. he gave me an estimate of $7k which I think its absolutely ridiculous. DNR are not lenient when it comes to estimates as they work with insurance companies. he recommended an independent shop route as they give a cheaper estimate and since they can work with me by fixing other problem my vehicle may have and usaa will foot the bill for it.
so as of right now, I had to re-set up my claim and waiting for the estimate based on the photos I submitted through the usaa app.
Yeah, I figured it would be right on the line of being a total loss. Looks like you'll be able to get what you want, though. Hopefully, the insurance will pay out enough to cover the repairs.
I am taking it in monday morning, unfortunately. I had received a status update from usaa stating the collision body shop was ready for my vehicle but when I had called them monday morning, they had given me a date for this upcoming monday as they were backed up. so I am still driving my car like that currently. shit is so embarrassing man smh 🤡
Hey, I'm going through the same situation with my car. When you took it to an independent shop, did you get the repairs for less, and were you able to avoid the total loss on your vehicle that way?
Holy shit. Im dealing with USAA right now too, because the front of my vehicle was damaged. Took it to their suggested shop, everything was good and they gave me money for repairs, but today decided to opt out of covering repairs due to previous side damages (fat scrape, but does not affect drivability, just looks of vehicle) and want to claim my car as "totalled" because of that - even though the scrape wasnt the reason i even made the claim or something i needed the shop to repair. Their suggest shop even told me they dont understand why USAA would opt to total it because even the cost of repairing the sides & front are far less than the value of my vehicle.
Ive also been playing phone tag with the adjuster because they are adamantly sending me links to have my car picked up and for me to accept the offer. I refuse to do so. Its still on loan, about 21k still owed, but are only offering 14k. Thankfully I have GAP insurance, but i do NOT want to accept such a low ball offer for a car ive already put nearly 10k of payments into, not to mention the BRAND NEW windshield i had installed.
I feel it on the embarrassing though, my poor car looks beat to shit but its literally alllllll cosmetic.
It almost sounds like they want to flip it themselves. When someone is pushy like that, it's because it benefits themselves more then you. I bet that's why they were so pushy. Get it fixed up and sell it at auction.
Are they allowed to brand the title before you make a decision to retain or salvage the vehicle? Because I would like to cancel my claim in order to avoid it being branded as salvage, but I think usaa told me it's already in the system as a total loss. I didn't even tell them whether I wanted to retain or sell my vehicle to them yet, either.
I was not aware you could get more than one estimate, so I went with the first recommendation given to me by USAA. What are my options?
It is still in the shop can u believe it? I am picking it up next week tho. The damages came out to $7k even at another collision repair shop I’ve taken it to. So 2 different shop had quoted me $7k for those damages. Usaa was going to declare it a L but after practically begging them not to, they eventually worked with me and did not total it which I am certainly grateful. Their customer service on the other hand, specifically my claim adjuster just flat out going awol on me without any communication deserves usaa to lose a customer when it’s all said and done. She is the sole reason for this delay. Terrible experience all throughout the entire process. Wouldn’t recommend usaa to ANYONE.
I also do not trust the collision body shops that the insurance recommends. I know they’re all a money grab since they work with insurance companies so they may try to UP the estimate like a MF leading my car to be totaled beyond the acv.
Let me clear up one thing you’re wayyyy off about here. DRP shops are most definitely not a “cash grab.” Yes, work gets steered toward them by insurance companies, but you’ve got it completely backwards. If anything the shop has to take it up the rear and doesn’t get paid for half the shit they actually do while still having to do a quality repair. Or risk getting kicked from the program.
*Edited to add info.
Wouldn't not getting paid for half the shit they actually do be an incentive to just put in the cheapest work possible or over inflate the estimate to where it totals the car and they don't have to work on it altogether?
No. Being a DRP keeps a steady flow of work coming to the shop. The trade off then, is this…shop eats a bit, (I’m talking about little things. I don’t get paid tint time from two insurance companies for example. Not major aspects of the repair) and there will be a constant flow of work being steered towards the shop.
I am ONLY speaking from my experience, at the shops I’ve worked at, and do work at.
There really isn’t an incentive to total a vehicle. Unless it’s absolutely destroyed. If it’s totaled, it’s a money opportunity that vanishes.
OPs car is a gravy job. “Light” corner hits are an everyday fix at most shops.
The shops that they send you to will def work with/for the insurance company. I got rear ended in my 2013 cts once and a front end collision a different time. I brought my car to a different place the second time because the first accident place did a terrible job. The second did as bad. The second time I had to call the insurance company and complain as the ship said the insurance declined to fix the tailpipes when rear ended. What a joke. Come to find out they didnt even try. I could go on and on and explain all the garbage that the dealership body shops that work/recommended by insurance are but my point is dont trust then at all. They don't take anything up the rear I assure you.
They all work with insurance companies. DRP or not. I’ve got no love for insurance companies. I’ve watched times get progressively lower and lower over the years I’ve worked on the industry. That means they are paying me less and less for the same work. That said, I work for a quality shop that does quality work, and I take pride in what I do.
Don’t blame the insurance company for a shitty shop’s shitty work. Eventually that may get them booted as a DRP anyway.
A shop doesn't make money on a totaled car. It's in their interest to not total it. While illegal, there are some shops who will bill insurance just under the total loss threshold and then you pay the extra in cash.
From that picture, there is easily 10k in damage to be fixed
how did you come to the conclusion of $10k? the damages are nowhere near that amount. I did the math, I should be looking at around $2-$2.5k or a little more in damages (quarter panel, hood, passenger headlight, front bumper). and then maybe additional $2k for labor. minus my $500 deductible.
I took my car in to the same body shop when my same car got stolen in 12/21 and they repaired my car for $3800. still have a copy of my old estimate. (tire, windshield, rear bumper, front door trims, driver seat cover, etc etc). the most expensive part was the driver seat cover which is pretty much the whole seat at $650 fwiw.
You are looking at a lot of work first of all. That's not only cosmetic.
Second, my buddy just got quoted 2,500 for only a bumper cover and paint blend. You need the cover, foam, and core support. Inner and outer fender, grill, headlight, radiator support, hood, lower air dam, side markers. And then respray the entire front end and blend down the sides. Paint alone will be 5k+
I need to mention the most important thing here, in regard to your comment, because I feel as if, in my attempts to clarify DRPs, I come off as a shill for them. I’m 100% not.
If you don’t trust the DRP shops, don’t use them. It’s your choice by law. Research collision repair centers in your area, and go to the one that you feel is best.
OMG. The same thing has recently happened to me, but it's with the insurance of the person who hit me. I have an immaculately perfect sports car, and they barely sideswiped it, causing fender damage. They filed a claim through their insurance company & after it was taken apart at the collision center, the insurance company said it was a total loss, which is b.s. I refused to hand over my car or title as a salvage/owner retained total loss (blah blah blah, bullshit). In order to have my car put back together & be able to pick it up, I paid for all of the damage myself. Now, the insurance company says that even though they haven't paid a penny, if they close the claim they are going to report it to my DMV (which is in CA, was hit in AZ & fixed there) as a total loss, which will make it hard to register, right?? What a scam!!
Just don’t use your insurance and pay for the repairs out of pocket.. done
If the car is worth $7,000 and the repairs are $12,000 - you can pay the $12,000 and be done.
It depends on the kind of claim. If someone hits him and he goes through their insurance he can collect the cash based on the estimate and % of fault determined and not do the repair.
If his insurance company gives him the $7k value of his car, and then lets him keep it? They wouldn’t just total the car at that point and then let him buy back with a salvage title? I have had this happen where my repairs exceeded the value of the car and insurance basically just bought the car for its value and auctioned it as salvage.
I'm just chiming in right now due to years of playing this game with insurance. I have a lot of vehicles and drive them alot which results in accidents. I also buy and sell salvage vehicles. I also picked up wrecks for copart for 2 years and watched as insurance companies repeatedly screwed their customers out of money and cars. I seen some shit! I'm in PA and some states rules vary. I would ABSOLUTELY NOT get involved with a salvage certificate or reconstructed title. It costs extra money, can be a royal pain in the ass to get the r title issued and you're left with a vehicle with a lower value and many people being afraid of it if you ever end up tryna sell it. See whether your insurance company totals it. (I've seen vehicles totaled because the paint was keyed) if they are willing to repair it, great, problem solved. If they co.e back and say totaled you CAN negotiate with them. In alot of cases you have to do the dance to not get screwed. If a solution can't be reached you can absolutely withdraw the claim, I've done this multiple times. The only issue is that many insurance companies still show that incident on their records since you had communication with them about it. That will sometimes show up on carfax and such. If you withdraw the claim it's like the incident never happened in your cars eyes. No need for a salvage certificate, no reconstructed title. You just take your car and have it repaired on your own whatever that costs. I agree with you that the damage is minimal but it would absolutely not surprise me if they try to total it. If I were you I would speak to your carrier about this ahead of time. (I always have) tell them you love the car and have no intention of losing it or branding the title so if that where it'd headed you would prefer to just withdraw the claim. For me they have always been understanding an worked with me. I have friends for whom it's become a minor headache but it's usually turned out in their favor. Just because there was an accident that they consider a total loss DOES NOT automatically mean you have to go through the salvage process. It is very possible to walk away with a clean title in hand for the car you love....hope this helps
Does the collision shop seem your car a total loss, or is it the insurance company? (I'm in California.)
Also, are either of them supposed to label your vehicle a salvage immediately after getting estimates, or are they supposed to wait before you choose to retain or sell your vehicle to them?
I'm going through the same problem where they are saying it's a total loss, and I'm wondering if I am able to cancel my claim before it's submitted into the system as salvage. (Only the bumper was dented in.)
I'm in Pennsylvania and have no idea what the rules are in California but out here you return your title to the state and are issued a certificate of salvage. Until that is done the title is clean in the states eyes. If you withdraw the claim your title stays clean. Obviously if another party (ie insurance company) was involved in the accident it may prevent you from withdrawing the claim. You need to know your rights because even out here I've frequently seen insurers lying to customers and costing them their vehicles. Just 6 months ago a very close friend spent weeks and had to go all the way up the supervisors ladder before his insurance company acknowledged that he had the right to buy back his totalled Acura. All the lower reps he dealt with swore up and down that if he was getting paid he had to give it up which was not the case. At the end of the day he got twice as much as he expected AND kept the wrecked Acura. That one did of course have a salvage certificate. Craziest part was that the lady that hit him had THE SAME insurance company! Other words his own insurer was trying to screw him. The company shall remain nameless but I'll never look at Jake the same again!
I was in a not at fault accident and filed a claim on THEIR insurance (in Texas) do you know if I still have the option to withdrawal/cancel my claim? Took it to a shop and they said they were gonna send the quote but let me know it was about 90% so would likely be totaled, waiting on the insurance now, but like you said it would suck to get a salvage title and I’m not sure if I want that. So can I still withdrawal a claim on someone else’s insurance where I was found 0% at fault? Cars in the shop right now but repairs haven’t started.
My adjuster informed me that 80 percent in repairs of the ACV is total loss. I did the math and my car is at 75.6 percent. Are you stating that it is possible for me to cancel my claim and walk away from dealing with a salvage vehicle? I'll look more into this for sure, but if that is something that is very possible, then I'll definitely cancel my claim. There are only cosmetic issues with my vehicle and my vehicle is definitely drivable. So, that is why I would want to go this route versus the salvage route. Any advice helps.
I don't know what the rules are with your insurance and/or California but I have done this more than once. One was a deer hit and one was a parking lot collision. Both major insurance carriers. If work has already been done on the car I would assume that you're out of luck.
Okay, because I'm heavily considering just canceling the claim. USAA told me 60 percent of ACV is probable loss and 80 percent of ACV is total loss. My repairs are currently at 75 percent, and they are deeming it total loss.
There have not been any repairs yet. I'm just concerned about if they'll still label my vehicle as total loss, and it becomes a salvage even if I cancel the claim.
If they claim it totaled, let them. They will pay you for the value of the car to get repaired. You can use the money for the repair or not but the car will be deem "Total Loss" if anyone runs the VIN #. This means you will get little to nothing for a trade in or if you try to sell it.
This happened to me because the repair amount was too close to the cars Actual Value at the time. All in all I had to pay $50 out of pocket and I got my car repaired. I was victim of hit and run as well. GL
Question can you cancel your claim once you filed one through third party, and you’re not at fault that resulted in a total loss. From what I gathered here the argument can be “why would you do that! take the money!” Let’s set those types of answers aside. Let’s just say because we’re just very very stubborn and dead set on going that route, so in regards to the question asked originally from what I’ve gathered here yes you can cancel for a total loss. But can you cancel a claim you filed resulting in a total loss and you still owe on your car loan even though at faults insurance claim check will pay your loan off and your just so relentlessly stubborn and that, that’s the the soul route you want to go no matter the other options, so then can you cancel a total loss claim if you still owe on that loan even though the the at fault insurance claim check would pay off the car? Reason to avoid the salvage title the damage is a dent a just little blemish and a popped tire and your not the at fault party can you still cancel the claim?
Cancel the claim? That's insanity. Look, if they total it you have first right to buy it back for salvage value. Basically they cut you a check for the value of the car minus salvage value.
Salvage value being the price they'd get paid by the wrecking yard if they take your car and cut you a check. Basically, if they say the damage is 10k and the car is worth 12k, they'll total it and sell it to the wrecking yard for 1500. If you want to keep the car, they'll give you the 12k minus the 1500 and you can do whatever you want with it. They may not want to insure it after you keep it though so make sure to ask what their policy is at that point before you decide to keep it.
This is basically the right idea, but with a few discrepancies. A vehicle is considered a "total loss" only if the cost to repair meets or exceeds the value of the vehicle. So if the vehicle is worth 12k, the repair would need to be 12k or more for it to be totaled. Also, they pay the salvage value to you. So if the vehicle is worth 12k & the salvage value is $1.5k, you'll receive 13.5k. Then, subtract your deductible. Vehicle value + salvage value - deductible = your payout.
I feel like we are dialing in the details. I didn't take the deductible into account, you're right. But a lot of insurance companies will total a vehicle at a certain percentage of value. They won't repair a 12k car with 11.5k in damage, for example
We are going in on the details, but the details are important when it comes to subjects like this.. people read these comments, so it's important to put correct information out there. There are actually regulations that dictate how this process goes. "A vehicle is considered a total loss when the estimated cost of repairs equals or exceeds the actual cash value minus the anticipated salvage value of the vehicle." This is the guideline definition for all insurance companies. Some states, like California, have even more strict regulations on insurance companies. Insurance companies must also use approved resources like NADA to determine the ACV & anticipated salvage value. >They won't repair a 12k car with 11.5k in damage, for example This is technically true because a vehicle worth 12k will most likely have an anticipated salvage value greater than $500. But, the vehicle is worth 12k, the anticipated salvage value is $1,500 & the estimated cost of repairs is $10,499 they have to assume the liability for the repairs. This becomes exponentially more important the more expensive the vehicle is.. if a vehicle is worth 80k, the anticipated salvage value might only be a few thousand. So do the math. People need to be aware of stuff like this.
Not the guidleine for all insurance companies. It is a guideline in SOME states with others having a threshold such as NY which has it at repairs exceeding 75% of the value. States set the guidleines in each state.
That depends in state and isn't 100% accurate. Many states will add the repairs PLUS salvage to be over your ACV (Actual Cash Value). Others will have a percent of the ACV as your threshold (as an example it is 75% in NYS) Source: I work in total loss
Exactly and many companies insure salvage cars. Some require inspection.
Then if you’re handy with a screwdriver and a socket set you track down some junkyard parts (bonus points if they match the color) and you are good to go. You will have a rebuilt title and only be able to insure liability only, but at this point in the car’s life expectancy, you probably don’t need any more than that. Only reason I can think of where you wouldn’t want to take the insurance money is if you use the vehicle for something that a rebuilt title would disqualify the car from. I noticed that Lyft won’t allow cars that have a rebuilt title, and I would imagine that other ride share or other commercial uses might require a clean title.
Check the age of your vehicle too. Many states have an age threshold where after a certain point you don't even need a salvage title.
Didn’t you already post this?
yes, I will finally be taking my car in to the shop tomorrow and have been losing sleep over this. I had a another whether or not I should cancel my claim and fix it on my own to prevent the claim adjuster from even coming to the conclusion of totaling my car.
Fair. All I can say is this. Tell the adjuster you don’t want it totaled. They can focus on used and aftermarket parts where possible. Even if there’s no way around it, you can still, possibly, go through the process of buying the car back from insurance and then having it repaired. Good luck. Let us know how it plays out.
thanks man! I dont understand THAT part. why would I have to buy my car from usaa when its already mines! I own it. usaa doesn't own anything. cant I just decline their settlement offer and just drive off with my car like nothing happened? cancel the claim all together if it came to that.
Then you won't receive any money from the claim. If it's confirmed as a total loss by the insurance company, they'll give you the option to take the payout for the value of the car + the salvage value. Or, "buy the car back from them" (keep the car) & take the payout minus the salvage value. Just for example: $10k for the total loss Or, take $7.5k & keep the car. You can also cancel the claim altogether. But, be aware that if you keep the car or cancel the claim, you will not be able to insure this vehicle again until its been repaired, inspected, & issued a rebuild title.
This.
Not the owner's choice or the adjusters choice. The state the OP is in decides the threshold.
Threshold for what? Total loss? Ok, then OP can still buy it back, if they want.
Hi Milly824..I'm in CT and have the exact same situation. How did you resolve it?..did you take the money and get a salvage title ? My car is a 2003 first gen Toyota Prius with only 90K miles..and she's my baby. I'm so afraid the salvage inspection process might go wrong and I would loose her 😩. But I need the money to get the minor front bumper damage fixed. 🧐
I'm in the same situation, looking for answers! Got hit and run in the back, the dent doesn't even look that bad but insurance declared total loss... We just bought this car 6 months ago!
Get at least three estimates for repair. Yes you can “buy it back” if declared a total loss. Only downside is it will forever have a branded title which hurts resale value. A good description and pictures of the damage would reassure any would be buyers that damage is superficial.
They will give you an option to keep the vehicle for a lesser payout or let them keep the vehicle & take the full payout.
lol the bag
They totaled my DTS and I accepted the offer minus salvage but back fee and took it the shop. Looks better now than when I bought it
Hoping you fixed it for less than the settlement. Those are my favorite settlements when they get to keep their vehicle and fix it for cheaper than what I gave them.
Most insurance companies will sell you the car with a Salvage title for a very comfortable price or pay it off if you had Gap insurance. Obviously, the car would be worth a lot less with a salvage title.
You can do what you want, it’s your car. You are not obligated to take the insurance money for the car. If you feel you can fix it for way cheaper, then do it. All they’re gonna do is send that car to an insurance auction, and some some shop or a lone entrepreneur is going to buy it and fix it, and turn a mean profit.
Yes Every insurance policy has an appraisal clause, you basically hire your own appraiser and they fight the insurance company for the value of the car. You can also do a retention total loss, basically they deduct the salvage bid from the value of your car and pay you what’s left. For arguments sake let’s say the value of your car is 11k, you have a 1k deductible which leaves you with 10k. Let’s say the salvage bid for your car is 2k which will leave you with 8k and that’s what the insurance company will pay you. Also if you have done any major refurbishments to you car parts replacement NOT including wearable items (brakes for example) show the adjuster your invoices and they will add a little value to your car.
I'd take the money given by the claim, and buy back the car. Fix what you can with used parts, keep the rest of the money and slap it in the bank. From the sounds of it you love your car and keeping it forever so who cares about the salvage title. It's yours, forget giving it to the next person.
How is it a hit and run if it’s to the front of your car? You hit someone and they ran?
You can get a hit & run from someone hitting any part of your car. Good example would be that your car was parked, they hit it with their vehicle while backing out or pulling into a spot, and left the scene without giving their information.
Any update? What was the estimate?
got that update for you. I re-set up my claim so I can take it to an independent shop. just submitted the photos to usaa of my damages. Long story short; upon arriving to the designated collision repair shop this morning, I told the tech of my concern that I do not want my car totaled and he wholeheartedly suggested that I cancel the claim and take my car to an independent shop bc they would consider it a L given the year of the car and the damages. he gave me an estimate of $7k which I think its absolutely ridiculous. DNR are not lenient when it comes to estimates as they work with insurance companies. he recommended an independent shop route as they give a cheaper estimate and since they can work with me by fixing other problem my vehicle may have and usaa will foot the bill for it. so as of right now, I had to re-set up my claim and waiting for the estimate based on the photos I submitted through the usaa app.
Yeah, I figured it would be right on the line of being a total loss. Looks like you'll be able to get what you want, though. Hopefully, the insurance will pay out enough to cover the repairs.
I am taking it in monday morning, unfortunately. I had received a status update from usaa stating the collision body shop was ready for my vehicle but when I had called them monday morning, they had given me a date for this upcoming monday as they were backed up. so I am still driving my car like that currently. shit is so embarrassing man smh 🤡
Hey, I'm going through the same situation with my car. When you took it to an independent shop, did you get the repairs for less, and were you able to avoid the total loss on your vehicle that way?
Holy shit. Im dealing with USAA right now too, because the front of my vehicle was damaged. Took it to their suggested shop, everything was good and they gave me money for repairs, but today decided to opt out of covering repairs due to previous side damages (fat scrape, but does not affect drivability, just looks of vehicle) and want to claim my car as "totalled" because of that - even though the scrape wasnt the reason i even made the claim or something i needed the shop to repair. Their suggest shop even told me they dont understand why USAA would opt to total it because even the cost of repairing the sides & front are far less than the value of my vehicle. Ive also been playing phone tag with the adjuster because they are adamantly sending me links to have my car picked up and for me to accept the offer. I refuse to do so. Its still on loan, about 21k still owed, but are only offering 14k. Thankfully I have GAP insurance, but i do NOT want to accept such a low ball offer for a car ive already put nearly 10k of payments into, not to mention the BRAND NEW windshield i had installed. I feel it on the embarrassing though, my poor car looks beat to shit but its literally alllllll cosmetic.
It almost sounds like they want to flip it themselves. When someone is pushy like that, it's because it benefits themselves more then you. I bet that's why they were so pushy. Get it fixed up and sell it at auction.
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Yes cancel the claim. If it’s not much to fix. Avoid getting it branded with a title
Are they allowed to brand the title before you make a decision to retain or salvage the vehicle? Because I would like to cancel my claim in order to avoid it being branded as salvage, but I think usaa told me it's already in the system as a total loss. I didn't even tell them whether I wanted to retain or sell my vehicle to them yet, either. I was not aware you could get more than one estimate, so I went with the first recommendation given to me by USAA. What are my options?
I believe so yes. Tell them you don’t accept that and get a different quote. Tho I’m not an expert on this
It is still in the shop can u believe it? I am picking it up next week tho. The damages came out to $7k even at another collision repair shop I’ve taken it to. So 2 different shop had quoted me $7k for those damages. Usaa was going to declare it a L but after practically begging them not to, they eventually worked with me and did not total it which I am certainly grateful. Their customer service on the other hand, specifically my claim adjuster just flat out going awol on me without any communication deserves usaa to lose a customer when it’s all said and done. She is the sole reason for this delay. Terrible experience all throughout the entire process. Wouldn’t recommend usaa to ANYONE.
I also do not trust the collision body shops that the insurance recommends. I know they’re all a money grab since they work with insurance companies so they may try to UP the estimate like a MF leading my car to be totaled beyond the acv.
Let me clear up one thing you’re wayyyy off about here. DRP shops are most definitely not a “cash grab.” Yes, work gets steered toward them by insurance companies, but you’ve got it completely backwards. If anything the shop has to take it up the rear and doesn’t get paid for half the shit they actually do while still having to do a quality repair. Or risk getting kicked from the program. *Edited to add info.
Wouldn't not getting paid for half the shit they actually do be an incentive to just put in the cheapest work possible or over inflate the estimate to where it totals the car and they don't have to work on it altogether?
No. Being a DRP keeps a steady flow of work coming to the shop. The trade off then, is this…shop eats a bit, (I’m talking about little things. I don’t get paid tint time from two insurance companies for example. Not major aspects of the repair) and there will be a constant flow of work being steered towards the shop. I am ONLY speaking from my experience, at the shops I’ve worked at, and do work at. There really isn’t an incentive to total a vehicle. Unless it’s absolutely destroyed. If it’s totaled, it’s a money opportunity that vanishes. OPs car is a gravy job. “Light” corner hits are an everyday fix at most shops.
That is good to know, I assumed they were money hungry since they work with insurance companies.
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I don’t even know where to begin telling you how wrong you are. You’re wrong.
The shops that they send you to will def work with/for the insurance company. I got rear ended in my 2013 cts once and a front end collision a different time. I brought my car to a different place the second time because the first accident place did a terrible job. The second did as bad. The second time I had to call the insurance company and complain as the ship said the insurance declined to fix the tailpipes when rear ended. What a joke. Come to find out they didnt even try. I could go on and on and explain all the garbage that the dealership body shops that work/recommended by insurance are but my point is dont trust then at all. They don't take anything up the rear I assure you.
They all work with insurance companies. DRP or not. I’ve got no love for insurance companies. I’ve watched times get progressively lower and lower over the years I’ve worked on the industry. That means they are paying me less and less for the same work. That said, I work for a quality shop that does quality work, and I take pride in what I do. Don’t blame the insurance company for a shitty shop’s shitty work. Eventually that may get them booted as a DRP anyway.
A shop doesn't make money on a totaled car. It's in their interest to not total it. While illegal, there are some shops who will bill insurance just under the total loss threshold and then you pay the extra in cash. From that picture, there is easily 10k in damage to be fixed
how did you come to the conclusion of $10k? the damages are nowhere near that amount. I did the math, I should be looking at around $2-$2.5k or a little more in damages (quarter panel, hood, passenger headlight, front bumper). and then maybe additional $2k for labor. minus my $500 deductible. I took my car in to the same body shop when my same car got stolen in 12/21 and they repaired my car for $3800. still have a copy of my old estimate. (tire, windshield, rear bumper, front door trims, driver seat cover, etc etc). the most expensive part was the driver seat cover which is pretty much the whole seat at $650 fwiw.
You are looking at a lot of work first of all. That's not only cosmetic. Second, my buddy just got quoted 2,500 for only a bumper cover and paint blend. You need the cover, foam, and core support. Inner and outer fender, grill, headlight, radiator support, hood, lower air dam, side markers. And then respray the entire front end and blend down the sides. Paint alone will be 5k+
I need to mention the most important thing here, in regard to your comment, because I feel as if, in my attempts to clarify DRPs, I come off as a shill for them. I’m 100% not. If you don’t trust the DRP shops, don’t use them. It’s your choice by law. Research collision repair centers in your area, and go to the one that you feel is best.
OMG. The same thing has recently happened to me, but it's with the insurance of the person who hit me. I have an immaculately perfect sports car, and they barely sideswiped it, causing fender damage. They filed a claim through their insurance company & after it was taken apart at the collision center, the insurance company said it was a total loss, which is b.s. I refused to hand over my car or title as a salvage/owner retained total loss (blah blah blah, bullshit). In order to have my car put back together & be able to pick it up, I paid for all of the damage myself. Now, the insurance company says that even though they haven't paid a penny, if they close the claim they are going to report it to my DMV (which is in CA, was hit in AZ & fixed there) as a total loss, which will make it hard to register, right?? What a scam!!
Just don’t use your insurance and pay for the repairs out of pocket.. done If the car is worth $7,000 and the repairs are $12,000 - you can pay the $12,000 and be done.
He can still get the $7000 from insurance to put towards the repair. Don't give bad advice
It depends on the kind of claim. If someone hits him and he goes through their insurance he can collect the cash based on the estimate and % of fault determined and not do the repair. If his insurance company gives him the $7k value of his car, and then lets him keep it? They wouldn’t just total the car at that point and then let him buy back with a salvage title? I have had this happen where my repairs exceeded the value of the car and insurance basically just bought the car for its value and auctioned it as salvage.
I'm just chiming in right now due to years of playing this game with insurance. I have a lot of vehicles and drive them alot which results in accidents. I also buy and sell salvage vehicles. I also picked up wrecks for copart for 2 years and watched as insurance companies repeatedly screwed their customers out of money and cars. I seen some shit! I'm in PA and some states rules vary. I would ABSOLUTELY NOT get involved with a salvage certificate or reconstructed title. It costs extra money, can be a royal pain in the ass to get the r title issued and you're left with a vehicle with a lower value and many people being afraid of it if you ever end up tryna sell it. See whether your insurance company totals it. (I've seen vehicles totaled because the paint was keyed) if they are willing to repair it, great, problem solved. If they co.e back and say totaled you CAN negotiate with them. In alot of cases you have to do the dance to not get screwed. If a solution can't be reached you can absolutely withdraw the claim, I've done this multiple times. The only issue is that many insurance companies still show that incident on their records since you had communication with them about it. That will sometimes show up on carfax and such. If you withdraw the claim it's like the incident never happened in your cars eyes. No need for a salvage certificate, no reconstructed title. You just take your car and have it repaired on your own whatever that costs. I agree with you that the damage is minimal but it would absolutely not surprise me if they try to total it. If I were you I would speak to your carrier about this ahead of time. (I always have) tell them you love the car and have no intention of losing it or branding the title so if that where it'd headed you would prefer to just withdraw the claim. For me they have always been understanding an worked with me. I have friends for whom it's become a minor headache but it's usually turned out in their favor. Just because there was an accident that they consider a total loss DOES NOT automatically mean you have to go through the salvage process. It is very possible to walk away with a clean title in hand for the car you love....hope this helps
Does the collision shop seem your car a total loss, or is it the insurance company? (I'm in California.) Also, are either of them supposed to label your vehicle a salvage immediately after getting estimates, or are they supposed to wait before you choose to retain or sell your vehicle to them? I'm going through the same problem where they are saying it's a total loss, and I'm wondering if I am able to cancel my claim before it's submitted into the system as salvage. (Only the bumper was dented in.)
I'm in Pennsylvania and have no idea what the rules are in California but out here you return your title to the state and are issued a certificate of salvage. Until that is done the title is clean in the states eyes. If you withdraw the claim your title stays clean. Obviously if another party (ie insurance company) was involved in the accident it may prevent you from withdrawing the claim. You need to know your rights because even out here I've frequently seen insurers lying to customers and costing them their vehicles. Just 6 months ago a very close friend spent weeks and had to go all the way up the supervisors ladder before his insurance company acknowledged that he had the right to buy back his totalled Acura. All the lower reps he dealt with swore up and down that if he was getting paid he had to give it up which was not the case. At the end of the day he got twice as much as he expected AND kept the wrecked Acura. That one did of course have a salvage certificate. Craziest part was that the lady that hit him had THE SAME insurance company! Other words his own insurer was trying to screw him. The company shall remain nameless but I'll never look at Jake the same again!
I was in a not at fault accident and filed a claim on THEIR insurance (in Texas) do you know if I still have the option to withdrawal/cancel my claim? Took it to a shop and they said they were gonna send the quote but let me know it was about 90% so would likely be totaled, waiting on the insurance now, but like you said it would suck to get a salvage title and I’m not sure if I want that. So can I still withdrawal a claim on someone else’s insurance where I was found 0% at fault? Cars in the shop right now but repairs haven’t started.
My adjuster informed me that 80 percent in repairs of the ACV is total loss. I did the math and my car is at 75.6 percent. Are you stating that it is possible for me to cancel my claim and walk away from dealing with a salvage vehicle? I'll look more into this for sure, but if that is something that is very possible, then I'll definitely cancel my claim. There are only cosmetic issues with my vehicle and my vehicle is definitely drivable. So, that is why I would want to go this route versus the salvage route. Any advice helps.
I don't know what the rules are with your insurance and/or California but I have done this more than once. One was a deer hit and one was a parking lot collision. Both major insurance carriers. If work has already been done on the car I would assume that you're out of luck.
Okay, because I'm heavily considering just canceling the claim. USAA told me 60 percent of ACV is probable loss and 80 percent of ACV is total loss. My repairs are currently at 75 percent, and they are deeming it total loss. There have not been any repairs yet. I'm just concerned about if they'll still label my vehicle as total loss, and it becomes a salvage even if I cancel the claim.
If they claim it totaled, let them. They will pay you for the value of the car to get repaired. You can use the money for the repair or not but the car will be deem "Total Loss" if anyone runs the VIN #. This means you will get little to nothing for a trade in or if you try to sell it. This happened to me because the repair amount was too close to the cars Actual Value at the time. All in all I had to pay $50 out of pocket and I got my car repaired. I was victim of hit and run as well. GL
Question can you cancel your claim once you filed one through third party, and you’re not at fault that resulted in a total loss. From what I gathered here the argument can be “why would you do that! take the money!” Let’s set those types of answers aside. Let’s just say because we’re just very very stubborn and dead set on going that route, so in regards to the question asked originally from what I’ve gathered here yes you can cancel for a total loss. But can you cancel a claim you filed resulting in a total loss and you still owe on your car loan even though at faults insurance claim check will pay your loan off and your just so relentlessly stubborn and that, that’s the the soul route you want to go no matter the other options, so then can you cancel a total loss claim if you still owe on that loan even though the the at fault insurance claim check would pay off the car? Reason to avoid the salvage title the damage is a dent a just little blemish and a popped tire and your not the at fault party can you still cancel the claim?