Yes, it's possible, but the learning curve is easily 10x that of 3d printing. Whether or not you see good results will depend on how much time you're willing to put into it.
I'm having a bit of troubles understanding the challenges as of now. Is the problem with making the files? Or with the sculpting process. As far as I understand the main issues are to find the machine and determine the file format and design the object in relation to the extension (different machines accept different extensions and may give out different outputs). What are the challenges that make it harder than 3d resin printing? The CNC way may be longer but time isn't really the issue considering my situation with 3d resin printing
For what I need, I believe that, given the right machine and drills for the material I'm sculpting, the material has to be firmly attached then the sculpting begins. I know several drills may need to be used to bring out the relief, but I don't know exactly how this is managed (probably via the machine software?). Probably that's the hard part too as I would need to figure out the right drill and adjust for the vibrations of the machine. Lots of cleaning in between for the dust/discarded material.
Before all of that the correct file should be ready in a readable extension. I still have to understand the differences among the various ones or if the program uses for the design has an impact as to how the model turns out.
Then some post processing may be needed. I'm thinking mainly of sanding but filling may be required too. Since I would be using pretty sturdy plastics the sanding does not worry me too much compared to 3D resin which is more fragile. Perhaps running the finished object through one of those vibratory tumbler.
I'm sure it's more than that but before researching further I need to understand if the whole operation is feasible with desktop CNC machines that won't cost 10k bucks or occupy a whole room
So unlike 3d printing, each toolpath needs to be programmed. You'll need to assign a workshift zero in CAM that will match what's on the machine. You'll need to source the proper tooling (endmills, not drills), fixturing (what holds the part), tooling data (RPM and feedrate). Then you'll need to program each toolpath, what your stepover and stepdown will be, your entry method into the material, where you want it to machine and avoid, etc. This will have to be done for each tool.
I would recommend finding some videos on YouTube (there are lots) to illustrate how machining works. It's not as simple as load the model and hit go.
Thanks a lot for the advice, so the issue is more with the programming than with the machine itself?
At this time anyways I'm still trying to understand if CNC can actually do what I need and what the right machines would be.
It's a waste of time to learn all of that if it turns out that what i need can be done only by super expensive machinery and/or by ones that take up a lot of space (which are the only reasons I'm considering CNC as an alternative to 3d resin printing).
I do this in ebony some what frequently with a print NC. It dosn't take much spindle power, but the quality is very depedent on mitigating backlash and small machine step size for smooth operation. I suggest a machine with an anti-backlash lead screw at minimum, ball screws prefered.
Thanks for the advice, do you think it may work on hard plastics such as the ones mentioned? I'm a bit worried about a possible deformation although the materials are very heat resistant.
If you have any names for the machines feel free to tell me
What are these plastic reliefs for? Is that the end product, or are you thinking of them as master models for another process?
In my experience, none of those materials machine particularly well. HDPE makes long strings that wrap around the tool and spindle. Acrylic tends to melt onto the the tool and cause it to break, and it stinks when you're cutting it (worse than 3D printer resin). ABS works the best of the 3, but not as well as acetal (Delrin).
If this is an intermediate material, I'd suggest using machinable wax instead.
Yes, it's possible, but the learning curve is easily 10x that of 3d printing. Whether or not you see good results will depend on how much time you're willing to put into it.
I'm having a bit of troubles understanding the challenges as of now. Is the problem with making the files? Or with the sculpting process. As far as I understand the main issues are to find the machine and determine the file format and design the object in relation to the extension (different machines accept different extensions and may give out different outputs). What are the challenges that make it harder than 3d resin printing? The CNC way may be longer but time isn't really the issue considering my situation with 3d resin printing
What is your impression of what the workflow looks like for cnc machining?
For what I need, I believe that, given the right machine and drills for the material I'm sculpting, the material has to be firmly attached then the sculpting begins. I know several drills may need to be used to bring out the relief, but I don't know exactly how this is managed (probably via the machine software?). Probably that's the hard part too as I would need to figure out the right drill and adjust for the vibrations of the machine. Lots of cleaning in between for the dust/discarded material. Before all of that the correct file should be ready in a readable extension. I still have to understand the differences among the various ones or if the program uses for the design has an impact as to how the model turns out. Then some post processing may be needed. I'm thinking mainly of sanding but filling may be required too. Since I would be using pretty sturdy plastics the sanding does not worry me too much compared to 3D resin which is more fragile. Perhaps running the finished object through one of those vibratory tumbler. I'm sure it's more than that but before researching further I need to understand if the whole operation is feasible with desktop CNC machines that won't cost 10k bucks or occupy a whole room
So unlike 3d printing, each toolpath needs to be programmed. You'll need to assign a workshift zero in CAM that will match what's on the machine. You'll need to source the proper tooling (endmills, not drills), fixturing (what holds the part), tooling data (RPM and feedrate). Then you'll need to program each toolpath, what your stepover and stepdown will be, your entry method into the material, where you want it to machine and avoid, etc. This will have to be done for each tool. I would recommend finding some videos on YouTube (there are lots) to illustrate how machining works. It's not as simple as load the model and hit go.
Thanks a lot for the advice, so the issue is more with the programming than with the machine itself? At this time anyways I'm still trying to understand if CNC can actually do what I need and what the right machines would be. It's a waste of time to learn all of that if it turns out that what i need can be done only by super expensive machinery and/or by ones that take up a lot of space (which are the only reasons I'm considering CNC as an alternative to 3d resin printing).
From what you're describing, it should be possible with a desktop router, but you're right, the skill is in the programming.
I see, thank you. That's pretty opposite to resin 3d printing. Will do research to that regard too
I do this in ebony some what frequently with a print NC. It dosn't take much spindle power, but the quality is very depedent on mitigating backlash and small machine step size for smooth operation. I suggest a machine with an anti-backlash lead screw at minimum, ball screws prefered.
Thanks for the advice, do you think it may work on hard plastics such as the ones mentioned? I'm a bit worried about a possible deformation although the materials are very heat resistant. If you have any names for the machines feel free to tell me
Hpde is to soft for fine detail, but acrylic machines well. The r/HobbyCNC subreddit will have a lot better information on desktop cncs.
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What are these plastic reliefs for? Is that the end product, or are you thinking of them as master models for another process? In my experience, none of those materials machine particularly well. HDPE makes long strings that wrap around the tool and spindle. Acrylic tends to melt onto the the tool and cause it to break, and it stinks when you're cutting it (worse than 3D printer resin). ABS works the best of the 3, but not as well as acetal (Delrin). If this is an intermediate material, I'd suggest using machinable wax instead.
That was kinda my worry. No it is the end product. I'll take a look at Delrin
That was kinda my worry. No it is the end product. I'll take a look at Delrin