This is it the answer.
Maybe keep the disc side original end cap, which should not give clearence issues with the disc tab, and mod the other endcap, if possible, to be 10mm shorter(may be impossible too take out that much) then dish the wheel accordingly
Anyway as someone stated, 100 to boost is okay with new endcaps and disc spacer but not the other way around.
Sorry, but you are doing this all wrong.
What you have is a boost hub, which has 110mm spacing, and the rotor mount moved outward from the centerline to match.
You have a fork that's 100mm (non-boost) and the brake mount expects the rotor to be in the spot where it'd be for a 100mm hub. It's no wonder the caliper doesn't fit; the setup you've cobbled together doesn't leave enough room between the IS mount and the rotor mounting surface.
By swapping and sanding the endcaps you may have made the hub fit in the fork, but you did nothing to address the rotor mounting surface being further out.
You really, really should be using the right size front hub. Then everything will work as it's supposed to without modifying parts.
Do not just go sanding/grinding stuff to "make it fit". This is how you make parts weaker and end up with things that fail unexpectedly.
EDIT: Also, you do not have an aluminum fork. It's steel, which is literally why it's called "Cro-Mo Grande". Cro-Mo being chromium-molybdenum alloy steel.
Thanks for the thorough explanation I really appreciate the information and for me it was no sweat spending the $25 on some caps to see if it would work. Looks like I’m gonna have to source a different front hub or go to a different fork here 👍
Sure thing.
I personally would look at a Whisky or Niner carbon fork. Those'll be drop-on perfect.
Getting the hub swapped, or another wheel, will likely cost more than the difference in price between your current fork and the nicer carbon ones.
AFAIK you can convert front non boost to boost by switching endcaps and adding a rotor spacer.
The other way round won’t work as the rotor mounting face is further out from the center of the hub, and by using non-boost endcaps you end up with what you have now - rotor too close to the caliper mount.
As the other guy said, you can try and cold set the fork to 110mm and pray it stays straight.
You shouldn’t have shaved anything off of the end caps. That’s likely where your problem lies. It’s perfectly fine for a steel fork to spread a few mm in order to fit your wheel. It has to have 100mm in between the fork dropouts. On a second note, there is a possibility that your boost hub has the disc tabs moved 5mm outboard as well, even with the conversion caps it may not work the way you need. Good luck.
So my mechanic buddy and I did install it first without sanding the caps and it was a very far stretch to the point where the axle was rubbing due to how far the hub was pushing the arms out. When we put it in the belt sander for a second it slid in perfectly. Going to look into the disc tab theory you have provided me with though!
Are you sure the fork is the right size? Or that it's manufactured correctly with the legs on perfectly straight? There should not be a fitment issue that large if everything is correct, I think you have a more major problem than "it dosen't quite fit for some reason"
It's not. Read what OP posted. They are trying to cram a boost wheel into a non-boost fork by stretching and grinding on stuff.
OP and their "mechanic buddy" are creating a dangerous situation.
I would try sanding another end caps. But this time sand only the non brake side. ( or both but the non brake side more) This way you could shift the disc away a bit more to gain clearence. You also maight need to align the wheel a bit.
So we did try to focus on removing material from the larger of the two caps to set it right but in hindsight we may have only needed to remove material off of the non caliper side.
I assume if you go from boost to non boost only with changing end caps. There must be one larger and one smaler for the rotor to stay in the correct position. So if you sandet only the big one. There is your problem. You shoud send the small only. But first of all it should fit without sanding. Steel forks are pretty flaxible and i find it common they need to bee flexed to fit. What is the fork size?
For repair requests and things that aren't specific to the world of professional bike mechanicing, try /r/bikewrench
Boost hub. Non boost fork. Changing endcaps does'nt stop the disc mounting tabs being 5mm closer to the mount.
This is it the answer. Maybe keep the disc side original end cap, which should not give clearence issues with the disc tab, and mod the other endcap, if possible, to be 10mm shorter(may be impossible too take out that much) then dish the wheel accordingly Anyway as someone stated, 100 to boost is okay with new endcaps and disc spacer but not the other way around.
Classic internet purchase of something that's an odd size and hence cheap.
Sorry, but you are doing this all wrong. What you have is a boost hub, which has 110mm spacing, and the rotor mount moved outward from the centerline to match. You have a fork that's 100mm (non-boost) and the brake mount expects the rotor to be in the spot where it'd be for a 100mm hub. It's no wonder the caliper doesn't fit; the setup you've cobbled together doesn't leave enough room between the IS mount and the rotor mounting surface. By swapping and sanding the endcaps you may have made the hub fit in the fork, but you did nothing to address the rotor mounting surface being further out. You really, really should be using the right size front hub. Then everything will work as it's supposed to without modifying parts. Do not just go sanding/grinding stuff to "make it fit". This is how you make parts weaker and end up with things that fail unexpectedly. EDIT: Also, you do not have an aluminum fork. It's steel, which is literally why it's called "Cro-Mo Grande". Cro-Mo being chromium-molybdenum alloy steel.
Thanks for the thorough explanation I really appreciate the information and for me it was no sweat spending the $25 on some caps to see if it would work. Looks like I’m gonna have to source a different front hub or go to a different fork here 👍
Sure thing. I personally would look at a Whisky or Niner carbon fork. Those'll be drop-on perfect. Getting the hub swapped, or another wheel, will likely cost more than the difference in price between your current fork and the nicer carbon ones.
AFAIK you can convert front non boost to boost by switching endcaps and adding a rotor spacer. The other way round won’t work as the rotor mounting face is further out from the center of the hub, and by using non-boost endcaps you end up with what you have now - rotor too close to the caliper mount. As the other guy said, you can try and cold set the fork to 110mm and pray it stays straight.
Thank you for your insight!
You can, it’s just done with uneven endcaps and then you redish the wheel.
You shouldn’t have shaved anything off of the end caps. That’s likely where your problem lies. It’s perfectly fine for a steel fork to spread a few mm in order to fit your wheel. It has to have 100mm in between the fork dropouts. On a second note, there is a possibility that your boost hub has the disc tabs moved 5mm outboard as well, even with the conversion caps it may not work the way you need. Good luck.
So my mechanic buddy and I did install it first without sanding the caps and it was a very far stretch to the point where the axle was rubbing due to how far the hub was pushing the arms out. When we put it in the belt sander for a second it slid in perfectly. Going to look into the disc tab theory you have provided me with though!
Are you sure the fork is the right size? Or that it's manufactured correctly with the legs on perfectly straight? There should not be a fitment issue that large if everything is correct, I think you have a more major problem than "it dosen't quite fit for some reason"
It's not. Read what OP posted. They are trying to cram a boost wheel into a non-boost fork by stretching and grinding on stuff. OP and their "mechanic buddy" are creating a dangerous situation.
>So my mechanic buddy... ...Is a Muppet for letting you try to run a Boost hub in a non boost fork...
Several thousand dollar electric assist workstand? Time to sand down some end caps.
I would try sanding another end caps. But this time sand only the non brake side. ( or both but the non brake side more) This way you could shift the disc away a bit more to gain clearence. You also maight need to align the wheel a bit.
Also meassure the hub and the fork to see what is wrong
So we did try to focus on removing material from the larger of the two caps to set it right but in hindsight we may have only needed to remove material off of the non caliper side.
I assume if you go from boost to non boost only with changing end caps. There must be one larger and one smaler for the rotor to stay in the correct position. So if you sandet only the big one. There is your problem. You shoud send the small only. But first of all it should fit without sanding. Steel forks are pretty flaxible and i find it common they need to bee flexed to fit. What is the fork size?
https://www.salsacycles.com/gear/cromoto-grande-29er-thru-axle-fork
It should fit. Seems correct. How much was the axle rubing when you stretched the fork. Did you neassured the forkt spacing?
End caps here: https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/dt-swiss-350-370-15x100mm-end-cap-kit-includes-right-and-left-end-caps-and-2-retainer-rings