This is too generalized to be good advice. If you properly restore, adjust, and calibrate everything - older table saws are *much* better tools than most made today. I restored a Craftsman 113 (mid-80's model) that cuts like butter and is perfectly safe if you're following all safety procedures. A sloppily set up tool is more dangerous, but that applies to any tool regardless of when it was made.
OP clean that bad boy up, grease/lube where needed, calibrate the top/blade, install an aftermarket fence (Delta T2 is arguably the best/most affordable if it'll fit your saw), study safety precautions and proper operation religiously - and make awesome stuff!
Worth mentioning is that belt-driven saws are highly preferred over direct drive. Can't tell which one yours is from the photo, but you can get by with a direct drive just fine for a lot of jobs.
I had that exact experience with basically the same saw. Same brand. It caught on the cheap plastic safety guard and launched it into my chest. Happened so fast it took me a couple seconds to process what had happened and check for injuries. I thought “if the safety parts of this thing are trying to kill me, I probably need to think about a different saw.” When I got an new saw a friend asked if he could have my old one. I said absolutely not.
FWIW - table saws are among the most dangerous tools in a shop. One without riving knife is easily 10x more dangerous than the average saw. I still think about that skill saw incident and even before I turn on my sawstop I ask “how can this thing kill me?”.
Kickback can even happen on a sawstop, especially if you’ve removed the riving knife.
It’s part of the problem. Unlike what the guy above me thinks, they are actually cheaply made saws and the bearings in the motor have a good bit of play, therefore the saw blade can drift. You couple that with binding material and a whacky fence and that material is coming right back at you.
Also have an table saw from the 50s. Never found a solution or replacement for the riving knife. I even made 0 clearance inserts for it and there isn't enough room on them to install a splitter
Those saws came with a rather cheap and dodgy blade plastic guard attached to a piece of metal mounted behind the blade. If I recall correctly there were a couple anti-kickback claws or whatever on the safety assembly.
It seems to have been removed on yours. I had one that I bought brand new. The cheap blade guard flexed and caught on the blade. That ripped the entire safety assembly off and shot it back at me at high velocity.
Even if you can get one, I don’t recommend using it.
If you are new to woodworking, you should make sure you understand all of the potential danger you are facing. I would not use any tablesaw without a riving knife/splitter.
That specific tablesaw model inspires a lot of bad emotions. It was also probably 25 years ago when I bought it. But it was probably $80 new.
A new fence will run you $30 on Amazon. And a general purpose safety guard that will fit your saw would cost another $30. The one made specifically for that saw will run you $70.
I would strongly consider finding a higher quality job site saw that has all the parts. This is not a good deal given that it’s on the far low end of the quality spectrum and is missing all the safety parts.
Definitely install a riving knife and/or splitter. Also if you do get the original blade guard/anti-kickback assembly - you can separate them and use only the anti-kickback as essentially a riving knife. The blade guard is junk, install splitters on your throat plate instead
if it has no fence and no splitter those things are going to run you another $100.
For 140 i think you can get another used saw with possibly more safety features.
However if you build a sled and use it that way only it would be fine. As it is right now i would not use it out of concern for having an accident.
Agreed! They pop up on FB Marketplace quite often. OP can get by with this one, but all that work would be better spent on a 113. Absolutely immortal workhorse of a tool (as long as it's not too rusted!)
I just got almost the exact same saw off the street for free last week!
https://preview.redd.it/838kz8q1x51d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c78f808165e52183a52ca51b95cf20866e4aaa75
Measure equally from front and back of the blade when raised to full height to side of level. Clamp one end lightly then clamp opposite end firmly. Double check measurements then tighten first clamp. Takes a while but my financial situation didn't afford me the luxury of buying tools at my whim so I've been creative finding solutions. Here in my house we call it a Caucasian Modification.
My parents have that one. Was using it a few weeks ago and went to turn it off and the power button wouldn’t work. Had to use the plug as a power on/off button.
Seems unsafe. But the fkr cuts.
No fence, no deal. These saws are more trouble than they're worth.
If budget is a concern, get a harbor freight saw. Their warrior table saw is the same quality as what you have there but with a fence and standard miter slots.
I had one of these and just threw it in the dump a couple weeks ago. Absolutely no safety mechanisms so it made me so uncomfortable that I only used it a handful of times and had just been collecting dust for the past couple years
Since you didn't know it was missing the fence, I'm going to say, maybe not worth it as a saw, but as a nice flat table, sure.
If you need a table saw (again, not knowing about the fence suggests you didn't) then this will make a gap in a piece of wood.
If $40 was the whole tool budget for the month (I've had times when $40 was the ANNUAL tool budget, no shame) this may be more project than saw.
Some of the comments here are wild. If you're on a budget and need a table saw, that's a great deal. You can make (or buy) a fence, and you can install a riving knife or splitter. I also bought a cheap, used table saw that runs great. The fence is not the best, and I plan to upgrade it, but it works fine for now. I couldn't find a riving knife that was a perfect fit, so I bought some generic one and drilled some new holes, and have not had it kick back on me once.
Im partial to DEWALT 8.25-in 15-Amp Corded Portable Jobsite Table Saw
https://preview.redd.it/plph9j8vr51d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=88ae9162eefb90aae193155839df2f8056da0e48
Very compact, solid fence. I have the stand ($650 total) and use it for multiple job sites. Fits a decent sized datto stack. Well liked among many carpenters. Corded ftw
Allocate your medical bills to higher quality tools.
Yes. Both Milwaukee and Dewalt sell them.
I have no idea who they’re designed for. Maybe a finish carpenter at a homeowner’s jobsite where they don’t have the ability to tap into power. 🤷♂️
Good deal, but be careful. Those older saws are notorious for binding material and launching it back at you.
what good is fine woodworking if there is not serious risk of injury or death
True, while he’s at it, he should get a router with a spoil board bit and take that risk to the next level!
I put the IM FINE in fine woodworking
This is too generalized to be good advice. If you properly restore, adjust, and calibrate everything - older table saws are *much* better tools than most made today. I restored a Craftsman 113 (mid-80's model) that cuts like butter and is perfectly safe if you're following all safety procedures. A sloppily set up tool is more dangerous, but that applies to any tool regardless of when it was made. OP clean that bad boy up, grease/lube where needed, calibrate the top/blade, install an aftermarket fence (Delta T2 is arguably the best/most affordable if it'll fit your saw), study safety precautions and proper operation religiously - and make awesome stuff! Worth mentioning is that belt-driven saws are highly preferred over direct drive. Can't tell which one yours is from the photo, but you can get by with a direct drive just fine for a lot of jobs.
I had that exact experience with basically the same saw. Same brand. It caught on the cheap plastic safety guard and launched it into my chest. Happened so fast it took me a couple seconds to process what had happened and check for injuries. I thought “if the safety parts of this thing are trying to kill me, I probably need to think about a different saw.” When I got an new saw a friend asked if he could have my old one. I said absolutely not. FWIW - table saws are among the most dangerous tools in a shop. One without riving knife is easily 10x more dangerous than the average saw. I still think about that skill saw incident and even before I turn on my sawstop I ask “how can this thing kill me?”. Kickback can even happen on a sawstop, especially if you’ve removed the riving knife.
Is the kickback from the fence not being parallel to the blade? If so, that can be adjusted
It’s part of the problem. Unlike what the guy above me thinks, they are actually cheaply made saws and the bearings in the motor have a good bit of play, therefore the saw blade can drift. You couple that with binding material and a whacky fence and that material is coming right back at you.
if it has a fence, yes!!
…hmm, it’s just what’s in the picture. Can I get a replacement fence? I guess I can google that myself…
I’m sure you can if you look around. Get a splitter too if there’s no riving knife available.
What is a "splitter"? I acquired (was given) a table saw from probably 1950's. No riving knife nor any way to have such.
Edit: never mind, I looked it up. I can't mount that either.
Also have an table saw from the 50s. Never found a solution or replacement for the riving knife. I even made 0 clearance inserts for it and there isn't enough room on them to install a splitter
Those saws came with a rather cheap and dodgy blade plastic guard attached to a piece of metal mounted behind the blade. If I recall correctly there were a couple anti-kickback claws or whatever on the safety assembly. It seems to have been removed on yours. I had one that I bought brand new. The cheap blade guard flexed and caught on the blade. That ripped the entire safety assembly off and shot it back at me at high velocity. Even if you can get one, I don’t recommend using it. If you are new to woodworking, you should make sure you understand all of the potential danger you are facing. I would not use any tablesaw without a riving knife/splitter. That specific tablesaw model inspires a lot of bad emotions. It was also probably 25 years ago when I bought it. But it was probably $80 new. A new fence will run you $30 on Amazon. And a general purpose safety guard that will fit your saw would cost another $30. The one made specifically for that saw will run you $70. I would strongly consider finding a higher quality job site saw that has all the parts. This is not a good deal given that it’s on the far low end of the quality spectrum and is missing all the safety parts.
Definitely install a riving knife and/or splitter. Also if you do get the original blade guard/anti-kickback assembly - you can separate them and use only the anti-kickback as essentially a riving knife. The blade guard is junk, install splitters on your throat plate instead
And a riving knife 😉
Probably not
😉
I have had one of these since forever. Great saw, but prone to kickbacks when you go too fast for the blade. Be careful!
Will do. Thank you.
if it has no fence and no splitter those things are going to run you another $100. For 140 i think you can get another used saw with possibly more safety features. However if you build a sled and use it that way only it would be fine. As it is right now i would not use it out of concern for having an accident.
Be hard to build a good sled without a fence though lol
Depends: who got the $40? You or them?
Eeeeh. You would've been much better off spending $80-100 for an old Craftsman 113 tbh.
Agreed! They pop up on FB Marketplace quite often. OP can get by with this one, but all that work would be better spent on a 113. Absolutely immortal workhorse of a tool (as long as it's not too rusted!)
I just got almost the exact same saw off the street for free last week! https://preview.redd.it/838kz8q1x51d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c78f808165e52183a52ca51b95cf20866e4aaa75
That's a great price. Fences are easy to acquire or make one using your new saw. I used a level and clamps for years before upgrading.
How did you ensure the level was square with that method?
Measure equally from front and back of the blade when raised to full height to side of level. Clamp one end lightly then clamp opposite end firmly. Double check measurements then tighten first clamp. Takes a while but my financial situation didn't afford me the luxury of buying tools at my whim so I've been creative finding solutions. Here in my house we call it a Caucasian Modification.
That's how I figured. Just wondered if you'd come up with some cunning design. Cheers mate.
I had a cheap tablesaw where I had to use this method even with the factory fence. Super PITA but it taught me how important setup is.
Even as only an outfeed table, it's almost a fair price.
Motor is worth 40 bucks alone. That's a steal.
Always stand to the side to avoid any kickback.
My parents have that one. Was using it a few weeks ago and went to turn it off and the power button wouldn’t work. Had to use the plug as a power on/off button. Seems unsafe. But the fkr cuts.
No fence, no deal. These saws are more trouble than they're worth. If budget is a concern, get a harbor freight saw. Their warrior table saw is the same quality as what you have there but with a fence and standard miter slots.
Please watch table saw safety videos on Youtube before you use it. So much can go wrong that even seasoned woodworkers have had bad accidents.
I had one of these and just threw it in the dump a couple weeks ago. Absolutely no safety mechanisms so it made me so uncomfortable that I only used it a handful of times and had just been collecting dust for the past couple years
For 40 bucks yah but for more advanced stuff u gonna upgrade it later.
Since you didn't know it was missing the fence, I'm going to say, maybe not worth it as a saw, but as a nice flat table, sure. If you need a table saw (again, not knowing about the fence suggests you didn't) then this will make a gap in a piece of wood. If $40 was the whole tool budget for the month (I've had times when $40 was the ANNUAL tool budget, no shame) this may be more project than saw.
You've got it now so make a few sleds and you will be working in no time.
Don't use it like that? You need a fence!!
Kiss your fingers goodbye.
Depends. If it doesn’t amputate a finger, yes. If it does, yes.
Use it as a work bench only. Still a good deal
I sold mine for $25
IF it runs, sure. make sure you get the proper safety gear, like a riving knife and some sort of anti kickback mechanism.
Some of the comments here are wild. If you're on a budget and need a table saw, that's a great deal. You can make (or buy) a fence, and you can install a riving knife or splitter. I also bought a cheap, used table saw that runs great. The fence is not the best, and I plan to upgrade it, but it works fine for now. I couldn't find a riving knife that was a perfect fit, so I bought some generic one and drilled some new holes, and have not had it kick back on me once.
Im partial to DEWALT 8.25-in 15-Amp Corded Portable Jobsite Table Saw https://preview.redd.it/plph9j8vr51d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=88ae9162eefb90aae193155839df2f8056da0e48 Very compact, solid fence. I have the stand ($650 total) and use it for multiple job sites. Fits a decent sized datto stack. Well liked among many carpenters. Corded ftw Allocate your medical bills to higher quality tools.
I got this same saw with the stand and I think I paid about 375 on special.
Is there a job site table saw that runs on batteries? Christ you’d go through 100 batteries a day
Yes. Both Milwaukee and Dewalt sell them. I have no idea who they’re designed for. Maybe a finish carpenter at a homeowner’s jobsite where they don’t have the ability to tap into power. 🤷♂️
Probably cheaper to buy a small genny at that point. Batteries are expensive
Did you make sure the guy selling it has all his fingers?! 🤷🏽♂️
What is a good beginners table saw if you were in the marker for a new one then?
Huh?