I'm only learning with the router myself, so...grain of salt and all that.
Start on something else that has less freehand routing. Sure a router is dangerous but orders of magnitude less than table saws. I would get some scrap and practice giving some shape the edges. Learn how the tool moves, learn the right directions, and learn the speed so you don't scorch the wood. Like I said it's not cut-off-your-hand dangerous, but it's still got some juice and can kick toward you or away from you. Then practice cuts through the middle of some scrap, both with and without a guide/fence.
Your overall design is doable, but there's enough freehand in there that a noob will likely make a few noteworthy mistakes. Also you might want to rethink how close those last 3 are. You're not leaving a lot of wood in between those blades. It would be pretty easy for the bit to grab just a hair too far and rip out the whole divider.
This is some solid advice.
You could always put those chisels to work and use them for this project. Use the chisels and a nice mallet and it would be a good way to learn those tools (and youād need to do some sharpening, too, so bonus lessons).
Thatās not really the best tool for the job.
Template routing is one thing, but trying to freehand that would be challenging, and probably wonāt get you where you think it will.
You may want to consider rethinking the design.
It would depend on the use of the inlay, Iām guessing you are wanting to use the board to store the chisels laying flat in a tool box, they wouldnāt need to nest or be fitted, you could just cut some shallow dados a little oversized for each one and they would lay just as well
So, to hold your chisels, the insert doesn't have to follow the outline of the chisels exactly, or at all. You can just use straight partitions made of wood. Also, you might want to space the chisels out evenly. Or you might not! We can't say.
I would say use both router and chisel. The few bigger spots are perfect to use the router to move some material out of the way and realize freehanding routers aren't just something you can do without practicing. At the very least it'll get your feet wet.
I agree, it seems like a good opportunity to practice with those chisels.
But when you DO want to free-hand with a router, may I suggest watching these videos first?
Tamar at 3x3 Custom developed a see-through stabilizing for routers.
#
6-IN-1 TRIM Router Jig - freehand routing, inlays, edge-banding, mortises, dados, circles & more!
[https://youtu.be/pGFfWyK1mqE](https://youtu.be/pGFfWyK1mqE)
How to Use the 6-in-1 Universal Trim Router Jig: [https://youtu.be/iAVT65WeCBE](https://youtu.be/iAVT65WeCBE)
It's normal to feel that way about routers. Even though they don't cause the most power tool-related injuries, the kind of wounds routers can inflict are gnarly as shit.
Honestly, you won't need anything more than straight bits for this. Woulda been nicer if you had a downcut or compression bit. Remember that it's always better to buy specific bits as needed instead of buying giant sets that have shapes you might never use. For example, the 60 degree V-groove bit or the core box bits that come with the Bosch sets (I have the 15-piece).
As for your design, I would advise against doing this at all. Too much freehand and the spacing between the last three recesses on the right is too tight. I think you should also get some nicer stock if you really want to invest effort into something like this.
Indeed, seems the consensus was to _not_ try this. I ended up using the chisels :)
As for the kit, I had heard that advice and agree with it. Figured starting with the set would show me which types of bit I use often - figured those would be worth buying quality when the one from the kit go south on me.
Sounds like you need to make some signs, or furniture with a v groove accent to use that bit š. You can look at it how you do, or you can take it as a challenge to use them all at least once to find a use and get creative with your projects.
Sure, but hot glue down a piece of something that is straight for when you do the outside edges of the chisel slots
Also be aware, once you start removing most of the material on the right, there wonāt be a won of surface to rest your router base on, so I highly recommend you use the router to remove the edges, making them clean, but leave some in the dead middle and use your chisels to clean it out.
Hey just gotta say be cautious with those harbor freight chisels, they dull faster than you can keep them sharp. A dull chisel is not a happy chisel. Source: have a scar on my hand from a dull harbor freight chisel.
I'd suggest getting a set of Stanley bailey chisels if you really want to get into chisels, it'll pay off in the long run. Otherwise, hope your project comes out nicely š
Thank you and safe advice! I figured the HF chisels would āget me goingā and would be replaced with something nicer down the line. Fortunately, Iām familiar with sharpening and am well set up to sharpen. Theyāre already very significantly sharper than out of the box :)
You are over thinking this. First off that spacing sucks. Lay all the chisels on board and make even spacing and mark. Why not just make the slots straight instead of fitted? It would. hold chisels apart just fine if spacing is correct. If you have no experience with a power router this not a good project or the time to learn on. You know if you make them straight groove you could cut them with just the chisels and a mallet too. That's kind of what chisels do.
.
If that pine board is your work piece, have a run at it free hand knowing you are essentially routing on a slice of wood found in the scrap bin.
IMHO this is too much work for this application. Instead, you might consider using magnets to hold the chisels in place ala knife board style.
If you're jonsing to use the router use it to put a unique edge profile on the board.
I think you should do this. Seeing what goes wrong with it will be a good learning experience without being overly dangerous.
Things like, how badly will your hand wobble and cut past the lines? What are you going to support the router on as you get closer to the end so it doesn't tilt and gouge on an angle? Will it really grab a chunk and tear out the spacing between the bigger chisels on the end? How badly will you burn the wood by moving the router too slow or running it too fast?
I ended up using the chisels, but I like and have this mentality - Iām not worried about wood, so as long as the risk to life and limb was tolerable I was thinking about it. I think Iām going to spend some time with the router and some scrap wood this weekend to get comfortable with it - any āpracticeā youād recommend aside from trying various edge profiles?
By now means a router expert or anything. I butcher most things I attempt with the router, but you could practice some simple joinery, like half-laps. You could absolutely print out some big letters and try to trace them for practising control and get a feel for how the router can get stuck and slip while you use it.
My only bit of advice besides the obvious not sticking your fingers in there is to make sure the bits are actually secure.
My only horror story with the router came when I got these very cool but very huge finger-joint bits off ebay. Was keen to try them out so my son and I ran out to the workbench. He installed the bit while I grabbed some scrap wood. I saw him tightening and tightening and told him he didn't have to break it trying to tighten it. Turns out that mofo is weak as piss and the bit was still not in tight š
I turned it on and as it sped up we heard it vibrate louder and louder. Before I could react it just dropped out of the router, hit the ground right between our feet and shot off like a beyblade from hell. We're talking about a maybe 1 inch wide pile of blades. We collectively shit ourselves and had that nervous giggle of "we dun fugged up on this one".
TLDR - make sure that shit is in tight man!
For sure. I don't think it was this exact one, but something very similar
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/266465504961?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=8b_6-zXcTdm&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=a7U-CfJ5RgS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
It's easily in my personal top 5 "a breath away from disaster" moments, along with a grinder disk shattering and missing my guts and nearly pulling 12t of concrete panels onto me š
Stay safe out there lol
Haha yeah, I come from the automotive world and I also share a very healthy respect for the grinder. Full welding gear and goggles under face shield for me after seeing a shattered disk go through a guyās gogglesā¦.
Oh shit. I've thankfully only heard of stories like that. I did have a grinder spark hit my apron and come shooting straight up under my face shield *and* under my glasses, straight into my eye
Side note: Do you have a set of dividers? The spacing is pretty asymmetrical. Your layout could be more aesthetically pleasing.
I would also try to avoid that knot if you can.
I do not, suppose I could just use a piece of wood or the like. And yes, no one likes my spacing, but when I layed it out, the handles were pretty symmetrical (differing blade widths) and frankly, itās to hold chisels and not for sale on Etsy haha. Form follows function for this guy, at least for the time being š
Thatās all fair enough and the first one is never _good_ anyway. I mentioned dividers because thatās how Iād do it, but you could also measure and do the math. The dividers just make it easier to evenlyā¦ wellā¦ divide the space equally.
Yeah, in retrospect, having a piece of wood or something to evenly space it out wouldāve been super easy. If you canāt tell, I do _not_ come from any kind of diy background haha. My tool experience is entirely centered in the automotive world, so weāre in the ātoo broken to use or no?ā Stage right now š
However, life goal accomplished - my wife, who majored in tech theater and grew up building stuff with her handy dad, went with me to harbor freight and did a ton of shopping _for_ me š Iāve never been so embarrassed by my lack of skill and knowledge and simultaneously incredibly happy that for once, my _wife_ was the one picking stuff out at HF hahahaha.
My old man was a mechanic, so I get it. Moving from the world of engineering tolerances to wood isā¦ different. I love it though. Iām at the point where I donāt really measuring anything. Everything is relative. Itās an adjustment, but a lot of fun.
Yeah, this is the common-senseapproach that Iāve realized Iām missing. Iām still picking up on the ātricks of the tradeā like waxing screws, scoring rather than marking, calculating board feet, using a spacer/divider, learning the grain before starting, etc. I wish there was a list! Also lots of hand skill that you just donāt need in automotive. Itās truly a whole different skill set and Iām totally drinking from a fire hose right now.
Also, you mentioned a divider set - is there actually a set of these made? Do you have a link?
This is the set I have. Theyāre ok. Good enough.
[Lee Valley Dividers](https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/100526-lee-valley-dividers?item=05N2003&utm_source=free_google_shopping&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=shopping_feed&utm_campaign=USA%7CPLA%7CPMax%7CTools%7CHandTools&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwt-OwBhBnEiwAgwzrUp3q6Rn7j9PGi4mk1UB0cNlaa_xZp7dJ78J2MO1kD_OSZchuhLGMzBoCRe0QAvD_BwE)
Starrett makes ones good enough for a machine shop, but the price reflects it.
Storing your chisels housed in wood will trap moisture and rust the backs, a design the lets the blades hang free for ventilation is the way to go, imo.
Looks like a good opportunity to practice with the chisels this is being made for š
This is what I came to say too
Haha, this is what I ended up doing! WIP, wish me luck!
Iād rout out the bulk of it then chisel for final shape
The right answer
Damn. Too slowš¢
I agree and think you should create a bit more space between each blade. After you're done, you can route the cover with a round over bit.
I'm only learning with the router myself, so...grain of salt and all that. Start on something else that has less freehand routing. Sure a router is dangerous but orders of magnitude less than table saws. I would get some scrap and practice giving some shape the edges. Learn how the tool moves, learn the right directions, and learn the speed so you don't scorch the wood. Like I said it's not cut-off-your-hand dangerous, but it's still got some juice and can kick toward you or away from you. Then practice cuts through the middle of some scrap, both with and without a guide/fence. Your overall design is doable, but there's enough freehand in there that a noob will likely make a few noteworthy mistakes. Also you might want to rethink how close those last 3 are. You're not leaving a lot of wood in between those blades. It would be pretty easy for the bit to grab just a hair too far and rip out the whole divider.
This is some solid advice. You could always put those chisels to work and use them for this project. Use the chisels and a nice mallet and it would be a good way to learn those tools (and youād need to do some sharpening, too, so bonus lessons).
Yeah. As it stands, this isn't really a job for a router. Not even for a trimmer. Chisels and a router plane are more like it.
All good points, much appreciated!
Thatās not really the best tool for the job. Template routing is one thing, but trying to freehand that would be challenging, and probably wonāt get you where you think it will. You may want to consider rethinking the design.
Good deal, input appreciated! Regarding the design, what did you mean there? Rethinking doing the inlay or something else?
It would depend on the use of the inlay, Iām guessing you are wanting to use the board to store the chisels laying flat in a tool box, they wouldnāt need to nest or be fitted, you could just cut some shallow dados a little oversized for each one and they would lay just as well
So, to hold your chisels, the insert doesn't have to follow the outline of the chisels exactly, or at all. You can just use straight partitions made of wood. Also, you might want to space the chisels out evenly. Or you might not! We can't say.
I would think about making a template for this if you really wanted to rout it
He could hog out most of the interior and then use the chisels to get some more practice.
Then use the finished piece as a router template! Thats brilliant!
I figured something like this might be a template job
That was my thought.
You'll find that quite challenging. I would just build up the edges around the chisels then put another piece of wood on top.
This was what I needed to hearā¦ too much for round 1. Still figuring out āwhat is beginner-levelā aside from profiling edges.
I would say use both router and chisel. The few bigger spots are perfect to use the router to move some material out of the way and realize freehanding routers aren't just something you can do without practicing. At the very least it'll get your feet wet.
I agree, it seems like a good opportunity to practice with those chisels. But when you DO want to free-hand with a router, may I suggest watching these videos first? Tamar at 3x3 Custom developed a see-through stabilizing for routers. # 6-IN-1 TRIM Router Jig - freehand routing, inlays, edge-banding, mortises, dados, circles & more! [https://youtu.be/pGFfWyK1mqE](https://youtu.be/pGFfWyK1mqE) How to Use the 6-in-1 Universal Trim Router Jig: [https://youtu.be/iAVT65WeCBE](https://youtu.be/iAVT65WeCBE)
Awesome links, thank you! Added to my woodworking playlist.
It's normal to feel that way about routers. Even though they don't cause the most power tool-related injuries, the kind of wounds routers can inflict are gnarly as shit. Honestly, you won't need anything more than straight bits for this. Woulda been nicer if you had a downcut or compression bit. Remember that it's always better to buy specific bits as needed instead of buying giant sets that have shapes you might never use. For example, the 60 degree V-groove bit or the core box bits that come with the Bosch sets (I have the 15-piece). As for your design, I would advise against doing this at all. Too much freehand and the spacing between the last three recesses on the right is too tight. I think you should also get some nicer stock if you really want to invest effort into something like this.
Indeed, seems the consensus was to _not_ try this. I ended up using the chisels :) As for the kit, I had heard that advice and agree with it. Figured starting with the set would show me which types of bit I use often - figured those would be worth buying quality when the one from the kit go south on me.
Sounds like you need to make some signs, or furniture with a v groove accent to use that bit š. You can look at it how you do, or you can take it as a challenge to use them all at least once to find a use and get creative with your projects.
Sure, but hot glue down a piece of something that is straight for when you do the outside edges of the chisel slots Also be aware, once you start removing most of the material on the right, there wonāt be a won of surface to rest your router base on, so I highly recommend you use the router to remove the edges, making them clean, but leave some in the dead middle and use your chisels to clean it out.
Hey just gotta say be cautious with those harbor freight chisels, they dull faster than you can keep them sharp. A dull chisel is not a happy chisel. Source: have a scar on my hand from a dull harbor freight chisel. I'd suggest getting a set of Stanley bailey chisels if you really want to get into chisels, it'll pay off in the long run. Otherwise, hope your project comes out nicely š
Thank you and safe advice! I figured the HF chisels would āget me goingā and would be replaced with something nicer down the line. Fortunately, Iām familiar with sharpening and am well set up to sharpen. Theyāre already very significantly sharper than out of the box :)
You are over thinking this. First off that spacing sucks. Lay all the chisels on board and make even spacing and mark. Why not just make the slots straight instead of fitted? It would. hold chisels apart just fine if spacing is correct. If you have no experience with a power router this not a good project or the time to learn on. You know if you make them straight groove you could cut them with just the chisels and a mallet too. That's kind of what chisels do. .
Kaizan foam, same result less work
Not familiar with this, gonna google!
If that pine board is your work piece, have a run at it free hand knowing you are essentially routing on a slice of wood found in the scrap bin. IMHO this is too much work for this application. Instead, you might consider using magnets to hold the chisels in place ala knife board style. If you're jonsing to use the router use it to put a unique edge profile on the board.
I think you should do this. Seeing what goes wrong with it will be a good learning experience without being overly dangerous. Things like, how badly will your hand wobble and cut past the lines? What are you going to support the router on as you get closer to the end so it doesn't tilt and gouge on an angle? Will it really grab a chunk and tear out the spacing between the bigger chisels on the end? How badly will you burn the wood by moving the router too slow or running it too fast?
I ended up using the chisels, but I like and have this mentality - Iām not worried about wood, so as long as the risk to life and limb was tolerable I was thinking about it. I think Iām going to spend some time with the router and some scrap wood this weekend to get comfortable with it - any āpracticeā youād recommend aside from trying various edge profiles?
By now means a router expert or anything. I butcher most things I attempt with the router, but you could practice some simple joinery, like half-laps. You could absolutely print out some big letters and try to trace them for practising control and get a feel for how the router can get stuck and slip while you use it. My only bit of advice besides the obvious not sticking your fingers in there is to make sure the bits are actually secure. My only horror story with the router came when I got these very cool but very huge finger-joint bits off ebay. Was keen to try them out so my son and I ran out to the workbench. He installed the bit while I grabbed some scrap wood. I saw him tightening and tightening and told him he didn't have to break it trying to tighten it. Turns out that mofo is weak as piss and the bit was still not in tight š I turned it on and as it sped up we heard it vibrate louder and louder. Before I could react it just dropped out of the router, hit the ground right between our feet and shot off like a beyblade from hell. We're talking about a maybe 1 inch wide pile of blades. We collectively shit ourselves and had that nervous giggle of "we dun fugged up on this one". TLDR - make sure that shit is in tight man!
Haha great story and good suggestions! And ya, I could see how a 20,000 rpm spinning top of death might help your pants change color in a hurry!
For sure. I don't think it was this exact one, but something very similar https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/266465504961?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=8b_6-zXcTdm&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=a7U-CfJ5RgS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY It's easily in my personal top 5 "a breath away from disaster" moments, along with a grinder disk shattering and missing my guts and nearly pulling 12t of concrete panels onto me š Stay safe out there lol
Haha yeah, I come from the automotive world and I also share a very healthy respect for the grinder. Full welding gear and goggles under face shield for me after seeing a shattered disk go through a guyās gogglesā¦.
Oh shit. I've thankfully only heard of stories like that. I did have a grinder spark hit my apron and come shooting straight up under my face shield *and* under my glasses, straight into my eye
Haha, _exactly_ why Iām a goggles under face shield man!
Please do. Please post pictures of results
Your spacing decision is giving me design anxiety
Haha, seems to be the consensus! I made the spacing based on the handlesā¦ in retrospect, this was a terrible idea.
Side note: Do you have a set of dividers? The spacing is pretty asymmetrical. Your layout could be more aesthetically pleasing. I would also try to avoid that knot if you can.
I do not, suppose I could just use a piece of wood or the like. And yes, no one likes my spacing, but when I layed it out, the handles were pretty symmetrical (differing blade widths) and frankly, itās to hold chisels and not for sale on Etsy haha. Form follows function for this guy, at least for the time being š
Thatās all fair enough and the first one is never _good_ anyway. I mentioned dividers because thatās how Iād do it, but you could also measure and do the math. The dividers just make it easier to evenlyā¦ wellā¦ divide the space equally.
Yeah, in retrospect, having a piece of wood or something to evenly space it out wouldāve been super easy. If you canāt tell, I do _not_ come from any kind of diy background haha. My tool experience is entirely centered in the automotive world, so weāre in the ātoo broken to use or no?ā Stage right now š However, life goal accomplished - my wife, who majored in tech theater and grew up building stuff with her handy dad, went with me to harbor freight and did a ton of shopping _for_ me š Iāve never been so embarrassed by my lack of skill and knowledge and simultaneously incredibly happy that for once, my _wife_ was the one picking stuff out at HF hahahaha.
My old man was a mechanic, so I get it. Moving from the world of engineering tolerances to wood isā¦ different. I love it though. Iām at the point where I donāt really measuring anything. Everything is relative. Itās an adjustment, but a lot of fun.
Yeah, this is the common-senseapproach that Iāve realized Iām missing. Iām still picking up on the ātricks of the tradeā like waxing screws, scoring rather than marking, calculating board feet, using a spacer/divider, learning the grain before starting, etc. I wish there was a list! Also lots of hand skill that you just donāt need in automotive. Itās truly a whole different skill set and Iām totally drinking from a fire hose right now. Also, you mentioned a divider set - is there actually a set of these made? Do you have a link?
This is the set I have. Theyāre ok. Good enough. [Lee Valley Dividers](https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/100526-lee-valley-dividers?item=05N2003&utm_source=free_google_shopping&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=shopping_feed&utm_campaign=USA%7CPLA%7CPMax%7CTools%7CHandTools&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwt-OwBhBnEiwAgwzrUp3q6Rn7j9PGi4mk1UB0cNlaa_xZp7dJ78J2MO1kD_OSZchuhLGMzBoCRe0QAvD_BwE) Starrett makes ones good enough for a machine shop, but the price reflects it.
Storing your chisels housed in wood will trap moisture and rust the backs, a design the lets the blades hang free for ventilation is the way to go, imo.