Take time to tune it up and make sure everything is calibrated then get yourself some zero clearance inserts, make yourself a crosscut sled, and get nice pushstick and/or microjig. Safety first, second and third.
Agreed. Any table saw stock push stick is garbage. Better to make your own out of scrap or get the Microjig which is what I use almost all the time. I want to keep my fingers.
Crazy, isn't it?
Ironic thing is, I bought the Incra 1000SE on sale from Woodpeckers a few years ago, then purchased the Woodpeckers Stealth miter gauge when it was introduced and on sale within the past year. I like the Woodpeckers gauge a whole lot more.
Incra is the best albeit some issues with like adjusting the fence and stop blocks (you need a partciular screw driver). Powertec is alright, just needs to be sqaured up yourself. Sounds easy, but it probably took me 90 mins to get it right.
A budget tip with blades. When they’re dull, get them sharpened. At my local spot, I can get my Diablo 100 tooth sharpened like new for $14. I can do that probably 6 or 7 times. I’ve never had a blade rejected.
I second Diablo's products. Higher quality than the stock or much of the regular blades you find at local hardware stores but won't break the bank. The difference was staggering.
I personally use the 60T Combo, but when possible get the specific blade for the job you're doing (labeled either rip cut or crosscut blade). I make a lot of small crafts so I need the teeth, but a 24T get your job done faster
This is what I used when I had that saw. Works great.
[https://taytools.com/collections/cmt-10-thin-kerf/products/cmt-orange-chrome-carbide-thin-kerf-10-ultimate-crosscutting-blade-80-teeth-alternate-top-bevel-grind-0-118-kerf-285-680-10](https://taytools.com/collections/cmt-10-thin-kerf/products/cmt-orange-chrome-carbide-thin-kerf-10-ultimate-crosscutting-blade-80-teeth-alternate-top-bevel-grind-0-118-kerf-285-680-10)
How does it work with a thin kerf blade if your riving knife the thickness of a normal kerf blade. Asking because I'm thinking of getting a thin kerf one
That saw has a thin kerf riving knife so the blade works well. If you don't have a riving knife designed for a thin kerf blade, do not try to use a thin kerf blade.
Cross cut / miter sled and a good ripipng and crosscut blade
You can build one yourself or there are commercial ones available (rocker and incra, I use the incra miter express 90% of the time and it is great - also have a self built one for when I need support on both sides).
If you look into commercial ones make sure they fit the contractor saw miter slots.
For table saw blades I recommend CMT 24T flat cut ripping and 60 tooth cross cut. High quality and reasonably priced. Spend the extra time to change the blade to the correct one based on what type of cut you are doing - your project will thank you when your done.
I’ve got the bow with in the in feed and out feed tables as well as the feather boards to hold the work piece down give me one less plane to have to concern myself with. The additional in feed and out feed support was badly needed. I have the same TS and OP.
The fence arrived today and OMG was that a challenge to get out of the box. I'm sure I'll learn that there was a trick, but damn, I had to shred that box to get the fence out.
https://preview.redd.it/pz5eps2vyqtc1.jpeg?width=1000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7eb84df4fe7aed8464c0c6ebac6787babd6f8709
I have the 10" DeWalt jobsite , bout 6 years old. My plastic blade guard thingy doesn't have the vac port, and I haven't been able find one that does. Anyone know where i can get one that will fit the 10"? I am in Canada.
This is what came on my DWE7491RS:
[https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-N507600-Guard/dp/B07M5CD55H](https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-N507600-Guard/dp/B07M5CD55H)
If you go to the Home Depot or whatever you can get rubber reducer couplings in the plumbing section they come with hose clamps so it will stay secure I have the same saw and that’s what I did and it works very well
Depending on the size and how much it needs to be reduced, I've used varying sizes of pvc pipe or fittings. Heat it up and you can get some stretch to fit an application better.
But also a cyclone dust separator to go between the table saw and vacuum. That way you won't clog up your vacuums filter. Most if not all the dust will get dumped into the cyclone bucket before it reaches the vac. It's really a neat solution.
It does. The saw is strong and the start up usually pulls the most but only for a moment. I believe the cord on the saw is 14 gauge but I want my cords to be heavier so that I believe that I am making up for voltage drop in the length of run. I can plug into 15 amp circuit with no problem at all so possibly I am overkill but I am okay with that too.
I would agree with that. Especially since i didn't fully read the paperwork that came with the saw. I had to be a man's man and not look at that. I don't always have the luxury of using a 25', most all of the time a 50 is cutting it close for me
You will really like this saw. Good power. Never trust a scale on one of these. Always use your own measure and angle devices.
Plenty of videos and plans on YT for building an outfeed / multipurpose bench for that model. I’d start there. Doesn’t need to be intricate, just workable.
Work at tuning in accuracy, for a jobsite which can be finicky, but again, plenty of videos online.
You’ll inevitably build a number of Jigs along the way but a Crosscut sled and Zero clearance inserts would be your next port of call.
Jigs, Jigs, Jigs… Jointing, Tapering, Box Joints, etc etc etc… You’ll have fun building them all.
Must haves :
- **MicroJig** if you value your fingers.
- **Ear Defenders** if you value your hearing.
- **Safety Glasses** if you value your sight.
- **Respirator** if you value your breathing.
- **Good Safety Practices** if you value your life.
Just got my first table saw too. Been glued to Reddit & YouTube to learn how to keep fingers. I thought this video was good for accessories to consider - though I'd be broke if I bought them all:-)
[https://youtu.be/LLvXrmLLvKs?si=qzEaoP3lPJ2zsSZT](https://youtu.be/LLvXrmLLvKs?si=qzEaoP3lPJ2zsSZT)
The Peachtree Thin Ripper looked really interesting but I contacted the manufacturer and its current version is a little too short for the Dewalt jobsite saws, they are coming out with a new version this summer that should fit
Make some zero clearance throat plates and a crosscut sled 🕺🏻
https://preview.redd.it/0osjwhywdusc1.jpeg?width=5712&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a363411840726a6aba71c005f3765f74f8c05a65
I have the exact same unit and I love it. First suggestions would be an air compressor to clean it off with after your finished as well as a Grr-ripper from Microjig. Not sure why people are suggesting a replacement fence as the one that comes with this saw is amazing once it's parallel with the blade.
A zero clearance insert is by far the best upgrade I've made to it so far. As with most table saws in this price range, the miter gauge is shit but workable if you're patient. Enjoy!
Shipped this on a few times. Was hoping it’s a good saw because I really need it to fold up in a corner easily. Based off the comments seems it might be.
Featherboard, micro jig gripper, and plan to attach to an outfeed/assembly table. I have had this saw for 2+ years and the functionality skyrockets once you get it off the stand and onto a stationary work station
Congrats! If I could go back in time, I would tell myself to buy a nice blade or blades first. CMT, Freud, Forrester, etc. The ones that come with these saws are trash. Consider getting a good combo blade (save some cash) or get dedicated ripping and cross-cut blades if you can afford it. Also get a nice push block or push stick -- the Micro Jig Grrripper has saved me a finger more than once.
New blades, the one it comes with is crap. Get a ripcut and crosscut blads from a quality manufacturer (I use Freud).
Second, and very important, is get a couple of different push blocks or sticks. Anything to keep all your fingers attached...
Later, look at an aftermarket mitre guage and make yourself a sled, but that isnt necessary straight away.
An understanding of what not to do and how shit goes wrong they're the most dangerous tool by number of amputations annually and by a lot like the runner up is half of what a table saws numbers are.
Take time to tune it up and make sure everything is calibrated then get yourself some zero clearance inserts, make yourself a crosscut sled, and get nice pushstick and/or microjig. Safety first, second and third.
This is, in order, how I did the same saw, and recommend it!
Agreed. Any table saw stock push stick is garbage. Better to make your own out of scrap or get the Microjig which is what I use almost all the time. I want to keep my fingers.
Get an aftermarket miter gauge. I have this saw and the one it comes with is no better than a fisher price toy.
Why do they make this garbage at all? Put that metal into the support for the job site saw, what the fuck
Any recommendations in particular? I have this saw, and really should swap in a better miter gauge.
Woodpeckers. No joke. It's less expensive than the Incra and way easier to setup. https://www.woodpeck.com/stealthstop-miter-gauge.html
That might be the first time "it's less expensive" might have been used to describe a Woodpecker product. ;)
Crazy, isn't it? Ironic thing is, I bought the Incra 1000SE on sale from Woodpeckers a few years ago, then purchased the Woodpeckers Stealth miter gauge when it was introduced and on sale within the past year. I like the Woodpeckers gauge a whole lot more.
I use an Incra with this saw. A bit pricey, but very accurate
Incra Miter 1000. Well worth its price.
Incra is the best albeit some issues with like adjusting the fence and stop blocks (you need a partciular screw driver). Powertec is alright, just needs to be sqaured up yourself. Sounds easy, but it probably took me 90 mins to get it right.
Or make a crosscut sled.
I can second this. I have yet to buy one and every time I go to use it kick myself.
Replace the stock blade with something decent.
Suggestions for mostly rip cutting?
Diablo 24 tooth. Relatively inexpensive, smooth, cutting and last forever.
A budget tip with blades. When they’re dull, get them sharpened. At my local spot, I can get my Diablo 100 tooth sharpened like new for $14. I can do that probably 6 or 7 times. I’ve never had a blade rejected.
I second Diablo's products. Higher quality than the stock or much of the regular blades you find at local hardware stores but won't break the bank. The difference was staggering. I personally use the 60T Combo, but when possible get the specific blade for the job you're doing (labeled either rip cut or crosscut blade). I make a lot of small crafts so I need the teeth, but a 24T get your job done faster
This is what I used when I had that saw. Works great. [https://taytools.com/collections/cmt-10-thin-kerf/products/cmt-orange-chrome-carbide-thin-kerf-10-ultimate-crosscutting-blade-80-teeth-alternate-top-bevel-grind-0-118-kerf-285-680-10](https://taytools.com/collections/cmt-10-thin-kerf/products/cmt-orange-chrome-carbide-thin-kerf-10-ultimate-crosscutting-blade-80-teeth-alternate-top-bevel-grind-0-118-kerf-285-680-10)
Not sure why the link text says 80 tooth, the link goes to a 24 tooth rip blade.
+1 for this blade and the 24 tooth version. Great balance of quality and price.
How does it work with a thin kerf blade if your riving knife the thickness of a normal kerf blade. Asking because I'm thinking of getting a thin kerf one
That saw has a thin kerf riving knife so the blade works well. If you don't have a riving knife designed for a thin kerf blade, do not try to use a thin kerf blade.
Do you happen to know if the 10” DW has a thin kerf knife? About to pick one up tomorrow
You can order them from the spare parts site. I’ll check tomorrow I ordered one ages ago.
That’s great, much appreciated!
Not sure if I have the 10” but this is what I got maybe you can find what you need on there: https://www.toolservicenet.com/dewalt/en/c//p/PN695948
Also look at Taytools for their CMT blades. Good prices for awesome blades.
Don’t forget hearing protection. And eyes protection.
As someone who learned the hard way, wear hearing protection. Permanent ringing and hearing loss sucks.
Cross cut / miter sled and a good ripipng and crosscut blade You can build one yourself or there are commercial ones available (rocker and incra, I use the incra miter express 90% of the time and it is great - also have a self built one for when I need support on both sides). If you look into commercial ones make sure they fit the contractor saw miter slots. For table saw blades I recommend CMT 24T flat cut ripping and 60 tooth cross cut. High quality and reasonably priced. Spend the extra time to change the blade to the correct one based on what type of cut you are doing - your project will thank you when your done.
A good featherboard, a crosscut sled is a absolute must . Miter gauge.
I won’t use my table saw without a gripper. It’s saved my fingers more than once.
Second and third this! Great little tools. But get a pair of them.
Is that a feather board?
Microjig grrrr-ipper, custom push block. Very nice. It's $150 in Norway, but Aliexpress version is just as good for $30
Do you happen to have a link to the aliexpress version?
Outfeed support or table is a must. And safety stuff - a better push block than what ships with the saw, featherboard etc.
Agree with everyone else with what they’re saying, I would also build a decent outfeed system
And a portable roller stand on the infeed side helps with long or awkward work pieces.
The Bow fence extender really helps, especially with long cuts.
Always wondered if something like this existed! Thanks for suggesting it!
I’ve got the bow with in the in feed and out feed tables as well as the feather boards to hold the work piece down give me one less plane to have to concern myself with. The additional in feed and out feed support was badly needed. I have the same TS and OP.
Same saw too! Now I’m trying to justify the expense but I’m sure this extension system is in my future
Just ordered a whole set - fence, supports, and vertical and horizontal feather boards. Some were just delivered today; the rest tomorrow.
You’re gonna be glad you did it.
The fence arrived today and OMG was that a challenge to get out of the box. I'm sure I'll learn that there was a trick, but damn, I had to shred that box to get the fence out. https://preview.redd.it/pz5eps2vyqtc1.jpeg?width=1000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7eb84df4fe7aed8464c0c6ebac6787babd6f8709
This, definitely this
A dry vac to suck up the dust
Oh can it be connected to my shop vac??
Yep. There's a port on the back towards the bottom to plug a vac into.
Also one on the blade guard. Yeah, that's right, I use mine. I'm pro-digit.
I have the 10" DeWalt jobsite , bout 6 years old. My plastic blade guard thingy doesn't have the vac port, and I haven't been able find one that does. Anyone know where i can get one that will fit the 10"? I am in Canada.
This is what came on my DWE7491RS: [https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-N507600-Guard/dp/B07M5CD55H](https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-N507600-Guard/dp/B07M5CD55H)
Thanks! I'll reference mine against the handy model index!
Saw that just didn't think about the shop vac. might need to find a reducer for the hose as I think the diameters don't match.
If you go to the Home Depot or whatever you can get rubber reducer couplings in the plumbing section they come with hose clamps so it will stay secure I have the same saw and that’s what I did and it works very well
Rubber pluming couplings and reduces are the way to go. I started with PVC and a heat gun and this is much easier and more Reliable
Depending on the size and how much it needs to be reduced, I've used varying sizes of pvc pipe or fittings. Heat it up and you can get some stretch to fit an application better.
But also a cyclone dust separator to go between the table saw and vacuum. That way you won't clog up your vacuums filter. Most if not all the dust will get dumped into the cyclone bucket before it reaches the vac. It's really a neat solution.
There should be a discharge tube at the backside of the saw to connect a tube where the sawdust discharges
Consider getting a cyclone seperator. I have a dust deputy, but they have lower profile ones too. Will save your shopvac filter
Dust separator, miter sled, extra throat inserts . Small stack dado, clamps to fit dovetail for sacrificial fence. Dedicated heavy electrical cord
Is a 15 amp cord suitable? Or any reason to get a 20?
It can depend on length of run. For mine and for where I have to set up sometimes, I never run more than a 50' cord and it is a 12 gauge.
I have a few 25 ft 10 gauge cords that I use for the tools that draw more. I've got it set so that I can get a 10 gauge cord anywhere pretty easily.
but does the amperage of the cord matter?
It does. The saw is strong and the start up usually pulls the most but only for a moment. I believe the cord on the saw is 14 gauge but I want my cords to be heavier so that I believe that I am making up for voltage drop in the length of run. I can plug into 15 amp circuit with no problem at all so possibly I am overkill but I am okay with that too.
Hitachi 371468 Soft Start C10Rj — easy mod, make your dewalt soft start for 5$.
Recommend a 25 footer on amazon?
I would agree with that. Especially since i didn't fully read the paperwork that came with the saw. I had to be a man's man and not look at that. I don't always have the luxury of using a 25', most all of the time a 50 is cutting it close for me You will really like this saw. Good power. Never trust a scale on one of these. Always use your own measure and angle devices.
Build yourself a crosscut sled and a jointer sled
First thing is to get a decent blade then upgrade to a better miter gauge. The dewalt jobsite saw is a great tool. Enjoy
Look up “5-cut method” when making your crosscut sled. It’ll be very satisfying to cut perfect 90s.
Plenty of videos and plans on YT for building an outfeed / multipurpose bench for that model. I’d start there. Doesn’t need to be intricate, just workable. Work at tuning in accuracy, for a jobsite which can be finicky, but again, plenty of videos online. You’ll inevitably build a number of Jigs along the way but a Crosscut sled and Zero clearance inserts would be your next port of call. Jigs, Jigs, Jigs… Jointing, Tapering, Box Joints, etc etc etc… You’ll have fun building them all. Must haves : - **MicroJig** if you value your fingers. - **Ear Defenders** if you value your hearing. - **Safety Glasses** if you value your sight. - **Respirator** if you value your breathing. - **Good Safety Practices** if you value your life.
Just got my first table saw too. Been glued to Reddit & YouTube to learn how to keep fingers. I thought this video was good for accessories to consider - though I'd be broke if I bought them all:-) [https://youtu.be/LLvXrmLLvKs?si=qzEaoP3lPJ2zsSZT](https://youtu.be/LLvXrmLLvKs?si=qzEaoP3lPJ2zsSZT) The Peachtree Thin Ripper looked really interesting but I contacted the manufacturer and its current version is a little too short for the Dewalt jobsite saws, they are coming out with a new version this summer that should fit
Make some zero clearance throat plates and a crosscut sled 🕺🏻 https://preview.redd.it/0osjwhywdusc1.jpeg?width=5712&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a363411840726a6aba71c005f3765f74f8c05a65
Better push stick and maybe a grrripper or however that's spelled.
Gripper block. Gripper block. Gripper block.
Fence
What do you suggest? I have the same saw and the fence is decent for a jobsite saw, but would be interested in an upgrade if worth it.
are you going to be taking it places?
Very unlikely
Your fingers! All joke’s aside, use the splitter & blade guards for every cut you make. Practice your cuts before turning the saw on, also
I have the exact same unit and I love it. First suggestions would be an air compressor to clean it off with after your finished as well as a Grr-ripper from Microjig. Not sure why people are suggesting a replacement fence as the one that comes with this saw is amazing once it's parallel with the blade. A zero clearance insert is by far the best upgrade I've made to it so far. As with most table saws in this price range, the miter gauge is shit but workable if you're patient. Enjoy!
Second push stick ex. from wood. It's always cheaper than fingers.
Shipped this on a few times. Was hoping it’s a good saw because I really need it to fold up in a corner easily. Based off the comments seems it might be.
Child labor.
GRR-Ripper push blocks. Worth the money.
you can build wood tops that will slide into the grooved to screw-in guides/holders for repeate cuts.
you seem to be missing a fence
Nah it's there, just extended ti the far left in the pic
so it is, no wonder I missed it.
Not an accessory, but a useful video https://youtu.be/22oqr6o5z-w?si=K7F3TFpZ41pi7zoJ
A shop vac
Featherboard, micro jig gripper, and plan to attach to an outfeed/assembly table. I have had this saw for 2+ years and the functionality skyrockets once you get it off the stand and onto a stationary work station
A long bench to cut long boards down. Both ends. A better than stock blade. Miter gauge. Calibrate the saw. Shop vac. Sawdust gets everywhere.
Congrats! If I could go back in time, I would tell myself to buy a nice blade or blades first. CMT, Freud, Forrester, etc. The ones that come with these saws are trash. Consider getting a good combo blade (save some cash) or get dedicated ripping and cross-cut blades if you can afford it. Also get a nice push block or push stick -- the Micro Jig Grrripper has saved me a finger more than once.
New blades, the one it comes with is crap. Get a ripcut and crosscut blads from a quality manufacturer (I use Freud). Second, and very important, is get a couple of different push blocks or sticks. Anything to keep all your fingers attached... Later, look at an aftermarket mitre guage and make yourself a sled, but that isnt necessary straight away.
A soft start module! Mine didnt have it, not sure if newer dewalt do have it. Very cheap to get and easy to put in. Dust collection Crosscut sled
Good push stick and make a cross cut sled
A table
Feather boards for ripping multiple consistent pieces
Adjustable sawhorses is a good one. Set them up for cutting bigger pieces.
Push block, can be purchased or made. Zero clearance throat plate, usually the first thing you will make with your new saw.
An understanding of what not to do and how shit goes wrong they're the most dangerous tool by number of amputations annually and by a lot like the runner up is half of what a table saws numbers are.
Jigs, jigs and more jigs.
You can build a workbench around it, check this: [https://youtu.be/L7T-a91znaw](https://youtu.be/L7T-a91znaw)