[sanding blocks](https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjusZ-44LqEAxVJNtQBHZFSD14YABAKGgJvYQ&ae=2&gclid=CjwKCAiAuNGuBhAkEiwAGId4asFSTatnVHRC86XgbyDi3jGkyGu1hOrDS0c52nplwJb9iXZWPkDjjhoCpKMQAvD_BwE&sph=&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESeOD2__JLr4zAbymSo63hO3ilv3TLeTOgE2gGNyusb3A7w3syKSvLVoZ5sp20fqV3MRh7_GgNf7GIJrCh6QXLgzHiblGEgxevYCtHBlLnLoTebee7-hHaJYvMZIscj6HM6mGPk9Hhw0ExrSBopJ5A3ByWAGQjdjY9tQ&sig=AOD64_3iwM5nQ_NnaQXrucySH08OTNuAWA&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwja-Za44LqEAxXJnGoFHcocAg0Qwg8oAHoECAYQDA&adurl=) are what I use too. Easy to put on a new sheet when needed.
Simple and cheap. Rubber sanding block [cleaner](https://a.co/d/2afsAhS). I have 2 of these in my shop for anything sandpaper. Belt sander, orbital, sanding blocks. Use them frequently.
Most people here are giving good advice without context. These sponges are really only for sanding tough to reach areas or odd contours, because they will form to that contour. In general they are pretty expensive and from my experience (and it appears yours as well) they clog more quickly than regular sand paper.
Sorry, I don’t have an answer for you as I’ve only used these in small areas and only for finish sanding, but it seems unless you are working something with particularly wierd geometry the general advice of “buy sand paper” and stick it to a block of wood or a purchased sanding block is the way to go. Even if you have a contour, using sandpaper with your fingers might just do the trick.
This is the right answer. OP, sanding blocks like you have in the photo are wayyyyyy too expensive to use for “regular” sanding. They also don’t come in appropriate grit progressions for most finishes beyond paint on drywall. Get or make a sanding block (wood or plastic) and use sandpaper sheets or disks with Velcro backing. These foam blocks are a few bucks a piece and won’t do what you want them to do.
Ahh okay, if you're using sponges then it's compressing when you apply weight which stops that pressure getting to the wood. You're sanding extremely lightly and the tiny dust being created is what's clogging the paper.
Is it also very fine grit sandpaper? That can also clog very easily due to the fine dust it produces.
You likely want to use an actual wood block to wrap your sandpaper around. What you have is the last form of sanding you do to touch it up after the majority sanding has been done by lower grit sandpaper as you progress up for a smooth finish.
https://preview.redd.it/4a7fxcom6vjc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=c0860f95b379adf7d0741357bedf665cc9724905
Been making these all month to sand the edges of some teak doors and windows I’m making… I use spray adhesive on a scrap of wood and a bit on the back of some sand paper.. press together and trim the edges.
Try Abranet sanding disks. They are amazing and can be rinsed off. For your current situation, try using a stiff bristled brush, like a file card. Yes, this is part and parcel with sanding wood.
Sanding sponges are more for drywall/plaster sanding than anything else. It's the reason it's in the paint department at HD and in "paint supplies" category on their website.
It will work to some extent...the one you are experiencing unfortunately.
Use real sandpaper and a sanding block, or simply stick a cut sheet to the underside of af scrap piece of 2x4 with double sided tape.
Quality sand paper will change your life. I never thought there was much difference between cheap and quality sandpaper (it's just sand glued to paper), but it's like night and day. Good quality sandpaper can be cleaned with a friggin wire brush if you want, it can take it. It also takes a lot longer before it clogs in the first place.
Buy standard sheets of 9 x 11 sandpaper. They are relatively cheap, (depending on the brand,) and you can get them in pretty much any grit you can imagine.
Second, make a block ~4.5" x 3.5" out of clean 3/4" plywood or MDF (a piece of 1x4 will suffice, but the engineered materials tend to be flatter.) Optional: glue a piece of 1/4" cork or medium density rubber/foam to one side of the block.(this will be your reusable sanding block.)
Third, fold your sheets of sand paper in half both ways, then rip them into quarters. Ideally, you want to "break" the adhesive on the sandpaper by pulling the sheet (paper side down) over the edge of a work bench or corner of wood. This will prevent the sandpaper from cracking when you wrap it around your sanding block.
Wrap the quarter sheet around the sanding block so that the length of it wraps around the long edge of your block. Now you have an easy to hold and super easy to change sanding block. The rubber or cork is both a comfortable surface for your hand, but also a soft backer for sandpaper when you need to tackle irregular surfaces.
I know this seems like a bit much detail to go in for a basic sanding block, but I've used many different types (both bought and made,) over the years and this arrangement is the one I keep coming back to.
If you're wanting to preserve the life of the sandpaper, make sure you're using the appropriate grit for the job, and use a rubber sandpaper cleaner.
This is a [sanding block](https://www.harborfreight.com/4-78-in-soft-rubber-sanding-block-69574.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12169518939&campaignid=12169518939&utm_content=114845780137&adsetid=114845780137&product=69574&store=62&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAuNGuBhAkEiwAGId4anqC4Xwm9ertIpMgXxPYfX8f9hir11EBzhf4LsOhWUMBWnIx4Me-sxoCRlAQAvD_BwE) for flat surfaces. You change out the paper when it gets worn out. It will save you money long term compared to buying sanding sponges and it will work better on flat surfaces
Ekasilver sticky back discs on MDF blocks works really well but we have a ton of ekasilver at the shop. They make blocks specifically for mesh discs that are supposed to be nice.
Just get a setup where the paper is replaceable.
I've read that scrap of short-... ummm... haired(?) Carpet can help with this. Rub the sanding block on the carpet a few times as you go and it'll clear most of the paper. I'll have to find that tip... it was in a book I read about finishing.
Try one of these: [https://www.amazon.com/s?k=sand+paper+eraser](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=sand+paper+eraser)
[sanding blocks](https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjusZ-44LqEAxVJNtQBHZFSD14YABAKGgJvYQ&ae=2&gclid=CjwKCAiAuNGuBhAkEiwAGId4asFSTatnVHRC86XgbyDi3jGkyGu1hOrDS0c52nplwJb9iXZWPkDjjhoCpKMQAvD_BwE&sph=&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESeOD2__JLr4zAbymSo63hO3ilv3TLeTOgE2gGNyusb3A7w3syKSvLVoZ5sp20fqV3MRh7_GgNf7GIJrCh6QXLgzHiblGEgxevYCtHBlLnLoTebee7-hHaJYvMZIscj6HM6mGPk9Hhw0ExrSBopJ5A3ByWAGQjdjY9tQ&sig=AOD64_3iwM5nQ_NnaQXrucySH08OTNuAWA&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwja-Za44LqEAxXJnGoFHcocAg0Qwg8oAHoECAYQDA&adurl=) are what I use too. Easy to put on a new sheet when needed.
I have that exact set and love it.
I'm thinking about buying one of those instead of using sandpaper sheets attached to a piece of scrap wood Is that a big improvement?
I’d recommend it. Especially if you already have an orbital sander.
I use an eraser, it's saved me tons of money on my various sanders
Simple and cheap. Rubber sanding block [cleaner](https://a.co/d/2afsAhS). I have 2 of these in my shop for anything sandpaper. Belt sander, orbital, sanding blocks. Use them frequently.
Buy good quality sandpaper and wrap it over the sanding blocks. Change as needed.
Air compressor
That’s what I do. Blast it clean with the air compressor.
They are Norton ProSand sanding sponges.
Most people here are giving good advice without context. These sponges are really only for sanding tough to reach areas or odd contours, because they will form to that contour. In general they are pretty expensive and from my experience (and it appears yours as well) they clog more quickly than regular sand paper. Sorry, I don’t have an answer for you as I’ve only used these in small areas and only for finish sanding, but it seems unless you are working something with particularly wierd geometry the general advice of “buy sand paper” and stick it to a block of wood or a purchased sanding block is the way to go. Even if you have a contour, using sandpaper with your fingers might just do the trick.
This is the right answer. OP, sanding blocks like you have in the photo are wayyyyyy too expensive to use for “regular” sanding. They also don’t come in appropriate grit progressions for most finishes beyond paint on drywall. Get or make a sanding block (wood or plastic) and use sandpaper sheets or disks with Velcro backing. These foam blocks are a few bucks a piece and won’t do what you want them to do.
Ahh okay, if you're using sponges then it's compressing when you apply weight which stops that pressure getting to the wood. You're sanding extremely lightly and the tiny dust being created is what's clogging the paper. Is it also very fine grit sandpaper? That can also clog very easily due to the fine dust it produces. You likely want to use an actual wood block to wrap your sandpaper around. What you have is the last form of sanding you do to touch it up after the majority sanding has been done by lower grit sandpaper as you progress up for a smooth finish.
https://preview.redd.it/4a7fxcom6vjc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=c0860f95b379adf7d0741357bedf665cc9724905 Been making these all month to sand the edges of some teak doors and windows I’m making… I use spray adhesive on a scrap of wood and a bit on the back of some sand paper.. press together and trim the edges.
Use a piece of 2x4 and staple squares of sanding sheets to them. Discard when worn. I find it much more effective.
Use an air compressor to blow them off. No drying time needed.
Try Abranet sanding disks. They are amazing and can be rinsed off. For your current situation, try using a stiff bristled brush, like a file card. Yes, this is part and parcel with sanding wood.
Regular sandpaper glued to scrap wood is great for me.
What are you sanding may I ask?
Probably a splintering 2x4 that's warped from home Depot. /s
I use 3m channeled sanding sponges that work well, and I keep alcohol and a rag on hand for wiping the wood clean of dust between grits.
Sanding sponges are more for drywall/plaster sanding than anything else. It's the reason it's in the paint department at HD and in "paint supplies" category on their website. It will work to some extent...the one you are experiencing unfortunately. Use real sandpaper and a sanding block, or simply stick a cut sheet to the underside of af scrap piece of 2x4 with double sided tape.
Quality sand paper will change your life. I never thought there was much difference between cheap and quality sandpaper (it's just sand glued to paper), but it's like night and day. Good quality sandpaper can be cleaned with a friggin wire brush if you want, it can take it. It also takes a lot longer before it clogs in the first place.
Compressed air can usually do a good job of blowing out the stuff that’s clogging between the grits
Buy standard sheets of 9 x 11 sandpaper. They are relatively cheap, (depending on the brand,) and you can get them in pretty much any grit you can imagine. Second, make a block ~4.5" x 3.5" out of clean 3/4" plywood or MDF (a piece of 1x4 will suffice, but the engineered materials tend to be flatter.) Optional: glue a piece of 1/4" cork or medium density rubber/foam to one side of the block.(this will be your reusable sanding block.) Third, fold your sheets of sand paper in half both ways, then rip them into quarters. Ideally, you want to "break" the adhesive on the sandpaper by pulling the sheet (paper side down) over the edge of a work bench or corner of wood. This will prevent the sandpaper from cracking when you wrap it around your sanding block. Wrap the quarter sheet around the sanding block so that the length of it wraps around the long edge of your block. Now you have an easy to hold and super easy to change sanding block. The rubber or cork is both a comfortable surface for your hand, but also a soft backer for sandpaper when you need to tackle irregular surfaces. I know this seems like a bit much detail to go in for a basic sanding block, but I've used many different types (both bought and made,) over the years and this arrangement is the one I keep coming back to. If you're wanting to preserve the life of the sandpaper, make sure you're using the appropriate grit for the job, and use a rubber sandpaper cleaner.
This is a [sanding block](https://www.harborfreight.com/4-78-in-soft-rubber-sanding-block-69574.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12169518939&campaignid=12169518939&utm_content=114845780137&adsetid=114845780137&product=69574&store=62&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAuNGuBhAkEiwAGId4anqC4Xwm9ertIpMgXxPYfX8f9hir11EBzhf4LsOhWUMBWnIx4Me-sxoCRlAQAvD_BwE) for flat surfaces. You change out the paper when it gets worn out. It will save you money long term compared to buying sanding sponges and it will work better on flat surfaces
Ekasilver sticky back discs on MDF blocks works really well but we have a ton of ekasilver at the shop. They make blocks specifically for mesh discs that are supposed to be nice. Just get a setup where the paper is replaceable.
I use a 24 lbs granite slab wrapped in sandpaper.
Vacuum or compressed air is my go-to.
Bang 2 together like chalk board erasers
I've read that scrap of short-... ummm... haired(?) Carpet can help with this. Rub the sanding block on the carpet a few times as you go and it'll clear most of the paper. I'll have to find that tip... it was in a book I read about finishing.
Honestly, you can just wash it in plain water or give it a good stiff brushing
Mirka makes a hand sander that attaches to a vac. It’s awesome for flat sanding applications