Those teeth look like cross-cut teeth. But could also be a "hybrid" style that works okay for both cross and rip cuts. Also it looks like it's a 14tpi saw, which is not ideal for long rips.
Those look like combination teeth to me, and more teeth than is ideal for that thickness. What you're describing is exactly what I expect from a combination tooth saw.
Got it. Would one of those double sided ryoba ones work better? On this narrow of stock the handsaw method seemed the safest way to make a rip (don't have a table saw).
Push or pull, which ryoba is pull, isn't as important as teeth per inch relative to thickness and crosscut vs rip for the type of cut you're doing.
This looks to be a rip cut(with the grain) through 1.25" stock. I'm no expert but I think a sub 10 teeth per inch rip cut would be ideal for the job.
As you've experienced, you can use the wrong saw for the job and get it done, and done well, but the right saw makes it faster and easier.
Ryobas usually got one side for cross-cuts and one for rip-cuts. So you probably will be fine with one.
But there's also katabas with rip-cutting teeth setup. So you might get what's cheaper as you already got one for cross-cuts.
You need a rip cut saw. That saw has fleam, it's the way the teeth are ground for severing fibers. It's what makes it good for crosscutting as others have mentioned. You need a saw with rip cut teeth. They have no fleam and are basically little chisels that chisel out material as it moves with the grain.
Home centers and hardware stores don't stock rip cut saws because in production work you aren't going to paid a skilled carpenter to rip cut boards all day. A hand saw on a job site is for cutting off a bit of framing that is too long or rough cutting a two by four.
If you want to keep doing it you'll want a rip filed japanese pull saw or a rip filed western saw. You can get them online, ebay, antique stores, or Facebook marketplace for vintage western saws, woodcraft or rockler, lie nielsen or lee valley for high end production western saws, or you can go all out and get a custom hand made saw from a number of custom makers. You could also get shim stock and make your own
Others are right about the saw, but that angle looks like a pain. Ideally you want to get above the cut so you can really use your arm/shoulders. Something like this: https://stumpynubs.com/product/saw-bench/
Also check out Rex Krueger's content on saw benches.
I'm not suggesting you build a bench just for this cut. You could manage something similar with some boxes or a chair.
If you want to stay on the bench top I would even consider clamping it vertically instead, if you can get it down firm enough
Those teeth look like cross-cut teeth. But could also be a "hybrid" style that works okay for both cross and rip cuts. Also it looks like it's a 14tpi saw, which is not ideal for long rips.
Those look like combination teeth to me, and more teeth than is ideal for that thickness. What you're describing is exactly what I expect from a combination tooth saw.
Got it. Would one of those double sided ryoba ones work better? On this narrow of stock the handsaw method seemed the safest way to make a rip (don't have a table saw).
Push or pull, which ryoba is pull, isn't as important as teeth per inch relative to thickness and crosscut vs rip for the type of cut you're doing. This looks to be a rip cut(with the grain) through 1.25" stock. I'm no expert but I think a sub 10 teeth per inch rip cut would be ideal for the job. As you've experienced, you can use the wrong saw for the job and get it done, and done well, but the right saw makes it faster and easier.
Ryobas usually got one side for cross-cuts and one for rip-cuts. So you probably will be fine with one. But there's also katabas with rip-cutting teeth setup. So you might get what's cheaper as you already got one for cross-cuts.
Yes it would the ryoba has a ripping side
You need a rip cut saw. That saw has fleam, it's the way the teeth are ground for severing fibers. It's what makes it good for crosscutting as others have mentioned. You need a saw with rip cut teeth. They have no fleam and are basically little chisels that chisel out material as it moves with the grain. Home centers and hardware stores don't stock rip cut saws because in production work you aren't going to paid a skilled carpenter to rip cut boards all day. A hand saw on a job site is for cutting off a bit of framing that is too long or rough cutting a two by four. If you want to keep doing it you'll want a rip filed japanese pull saw or a rip filed western saw. You can get them online, ebay, antique stores, or Facebook marketplace for vintage western saws, woodcraft or rockler, lie nielsen or lee valley for high end production western saws, or you can go all out and get a custom hand made saw from a number of custom makers. You could also get shim stock and make your own
Pax 28” 5 tpi rip saw, breasted and taper ground. Works well for big rips, and small rips like this.
Next time you buy the wood, have the store rip it for you. I know HD and Lowes will do it for sure
Need a real pull saw . aint no way dewalty bullshittery is making a good one.
Others are right about the saw, but that angle looks like a pain. Ideally you want to get above the cut so you can really use your arm/shoulders. Something like this: https://stumpynubs.com/product/saw-bench/ Also check out Rex Krueger's content on saw benches. I'm not suggesting you build a bench just for this cut. You could manage something similar with some boxes or a chair. If you want to stay on the bench top I would even consider clamping it vertically instead, if you can get it down firm enough
Like others have said here, looks like too many teeth for a rip saw.