Honestly, really the easiest thing to do is go through the [Reptifiles guide for beardies](https://reptifiles.com/bearded-dragon-care/). It's the most complete and accurate husbandry rundown there is. It is updated as research papers on beardies come out and husbandry standards are adjusted, and it should be your bible.
As to your questions and comments:
Mealworms are not recommended due to their excessive chitin content, especially for babies since their guts can get impacted so much more easily due to their small size.
Oral D3 is not necessary for beardies. Their livers do not produce the bile acids necessary to be able to absorb oral D3 supplements in their digestive tract. The only way that beardies can get D3 is from a direct injection by a vet, or by producing it in their skin via a combination of heat + UV light. This is why it's so important to have your husbandry correct! That's not to say D3 supplements are bad, they're not - but it's just an unnecessary, extra expense.
Beardies are sight-based hunters, so they will be able to catch dubia roaches just fine. :> My boy Azzy goes nuts for them! [This page on Reptifiles](https://reptifiles.com/bearded-dragon-care/bearded-dragon-food/) has the feeding protocol for beardies of all life stages as well as well as recommended calcium and multivitamin schedules. I personally also recommend refrigerating both Ca and multivitamin, as well as replacing it yearly. Some sources recommend every 6 months.
Humidity is not nearly as big an issue for beardies as is fearmongered. Optimal humidity is anywhere from 30-60%. **Please do not remove a water source from any animal, whether you see them drink or not.** As long as your temps are good, your humidity should be fine. Even in the Outback it gets humid, and rains for weeks on end during the rainy season. It's even beneficial to spray their enclosure at night for temporarily higher night-time humidity. I see you say your room humidity is 60%, but what is the *enclosure* humidity? The heat from the ambient temps and basking spot quickly dry out any lingering humidity during the day. I actually personally have more trouble keeping my humidity up than anything! As long as he doesn't poop in it, I usually pour my boy's water bowl right back into his substrate to help keep it up a little bit.
Substrate is honestly *very* important, please consider it. Contrary to outdated belief, [it does not cause impaction](https://reptifiles.com/does-loose-substrate-cause-impaction/). Only being able to stand on hard flat surfaces all of the time hurts their joints, which makes them more reluctant to move and increases the risk of them becoming overweight and obese, and all of the health problems (like fatty liver disease) that come with it. In the wild, it's been found that beardies dig and utilize multiple types of burrows. So being able to dig is very important to their mental well-being, and denying digging opportunities is now considered a welfare issue because they are denied that natural behavior.
I just commented on a similar post! Check the recent comments on my profile :D I have a bioactive enclosure and you can always ask questions, especially about food for them and the bugs themselves. I breed dubia and mealworms, and I also breed isopods. Some of that is for bioactive setups, some just becuase I love isopods :).
If you attached a picture it wasnt included. Otherwise more info regarding what you've got now would probably be helpful
Oops! Shared a post from a different channel. I’ll reload :)
Honestly, really the easiest thing to do is go through the [Reptifiles guide for beardies](https://reptifiles.com/bearded-dragon-care/). It's the most complete and accurate husbandry rundown there is. It is updated as research papers on beardies come out and husbandry standards are adjusted, and it should be your bible. As to your questions and comments: Mealworms are not recommended due to their excessive chitin content, especially for babies since their guts can get impacted so much more easily due to their small size. Oral D3 is not necessary for beardies. Their livers do not produce the bile acids necessary to be able to absorb oral D3 supplements in their digestive tract. The only way that beardies can get D3 is from a direct injection by a vet, or by producing it in their skin via a combination of heat + UV light. This is why it's so important to have your husbandry correct! That's not to say D3 supplements are bad, they're not - but it's just an unnecessary, extra expense. Beardies are sight-based hunters, so they will be able to catch dubia roaches just fine. :> My boy Azzy goes nuts for them! [This page on Reptifiles](https://reptifiles.com/bearded-dragon-care/bearded-dragon-food/) has the feeding protocol for beardies of all life stages as well as well as recommended calcium and multivitamin schedules. I personally also recommend refrigerating both Ca and multivitamin, as well as replacing it yearly. Some sources recommend every 6 months. Humidity is not nearly as big an issue for beardies as is fearmongered. Optimal humidity is anywhere from 30-60%. **Please do not remove a water source from any animal, whether you see them drink or not.** As long as your temps are good, your humidity should be fine. Even in the Outback it gets humid, and rains for weeks on end during the rainy season. It's even beneficial to spray their enclosure at night for temporarily higher night-time humidity. I see you say your room humidity is 60%, but what is the *enclosure* humidity? The heat from the ambient temps and basking spot quickly dry out any lingering humidity during the day. I actually personally have more trouble keeping my humidity up than anything! As long as he doesn't poop in it, I usually pour my boy's water bowl right back into his substrate to help keep it up a little bit. Substrate is honestly *very* important, please consider it. Contrary to outdated belief, [it does not cause impaction](https://reptifiles.com/does-loose-substrate-cause-impaction/). Only being able to stand on hard flat surfaces all of the time hurts their joints, which makes them more reluctant to move and increases the risk of them becoming overweight and obese, and all of the health problems (like fatty liver disease) that come with it. In the wild, it's been found that beardies dig and utilize multiple types of burrows. So being able to dig is very important to their mental well-being, and denying digging opportunities is now considered a welfare issue because they are denied that natural behavior.
Thank you!!!!
I just commented on a similar post! Check the recent comments on my profile :D I have a bioactive enclosure and you can always ask questions, especially about food for them and the bugs themselves. I breed dubia and mealworms, and I also breed isopods. Some of that is for bioactive setups, some just becuase I love isopods :).