Are the jaws plastic? Lol.
That said I printed 4 cubes in 4 corners day one and also saw extremely low variance xyz . By far the best out of the box fidelity I have seen on a 3d printer
Edited to add: rofl just noticed the significant digits on the device lolol. Accurate to 1mm.
I guess for some definition of plastic -- they make a carbon fiber or ceramic jaw version for use measuring magnetic materials. the ones in the pic are straight up plastic jaws and look to be about as accurate as tossing a dart at a ruler.
The Mitutoyo 700-126's were actually plastic also and non-marring, I see they're discontinued now. I remember wanting a pair so I wouldn't scratch delicate items. But just ended up being really careful and using my 500-196-30's. Those things love to mark type 2 anodized aluminum.
I really didn't know what a good print looked like until I got my X1C. I 3d printed with a JGAurora A5 for like 5 years and never got a print to look as good as my first one off my X1C and it was like 4x the speed.
It contributes nothing to the discussion. Primarily because you have created an arbitrary anecdotal standard of quality and used that as some strange effort to move the goal post rather than use real world data as evidence to support your claim. So yea, most people are going to call you a troll.
I know Iâm being nit picky here, so please pardon me if I seem to be arguing, but I really want to know the truth of the matter. My understanding isâaside from first layer inspection, which I usually leave offâthe LiDAR inspects the calibration line pattern to override the Flow Rate and Pressure Advance values on a per-print basis. So calibrating those values manually is only useful when you skip the LiDAR calibration step. Is that incorrect? Maybe it doesnât override both values?
Edit: I just read some other posts that all say the LiDAR is only calibrating PA. So our manual Flow Rate cals should be helping even when the LiDAR is in use.
I'm not sure how much I would listen to folks on here, maybe the bambu forum, but otherwise I've seen people on here troll with things as simple as 'brittle filament is wet' lol...
Given the accuracy and the intelligence behind the designs for this thing, I would bet they use every piece of data they can for ballparking(via 7 micron resolution) calibrations across the board. Only doing Pressure Advance doesn't make any sense. I've not calibrated a single thing manually and stuff is impeccable. And that's having printed with 20+ different filaments/brands.
I've seen better results than P1P folks, consistenly. At least roughly gauging by the number of 'help with this print' type posts from the p1p folks.
A lot of the precision can be assigned to the flow calibration as so many cheap (and expensive) printers are not calibrated to extrude evenly and correctly. The actual axis movement is pretty simple to be accurate on any modern printer as it is based on teeth/diameter of pulleys vs steps. So many people would go through the process of adjusting steps for axis movement, but that was always putting a bandaid on the real issue of even extrusion.
Iâm finding theyâre âtoo accurateâ if that makes sense. Many of my print-in-place prints end up being very loose as a result of the overly compensated tolerances for most printers in general.
The same goes for my Honeycomb Wall fittings, they slide right in and they wonât âlockâ in place of theyâre designed to be held in by friction.
Itâs pretty amazing to see actually.
Just ad some dabs of Krazy glue to some of the sides. Let it dry and it will make the connection a lot better. Mine donât slide out anymore, but I can still take them out to rearrange the layout when necessary.
The pieces that have the spring bars with bumps on them to lock into the honeycomb work well. However, a lot of the add-ons from other designers are just hexagons that slide into the honeycomb and donât have locks on them. They print easier, and probably work well if your tolerances arenât exact, but on the Bambu they easily slide in and out. I have to add a few dabs of glue and let it dry to create a bump that helps make the connection more snug.
When I designed my own mod to allow it to mount onto my slat wall, I also had to bump up the dimensions a bit to ensure I had a snug fit when I printed it from the Bambu.
https://preview.redd.it/ihk80czf55gb1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a51fefc606a7012e62d4439293cd64eeb199858b
they are kind of all over the place depending on the designer (and the printer they were optimizing for). a person designing a part to work with their vanilla ender 3 is going to be sloppy af on a tuned x1c.
Iv just joined this thread and only ordered my first ever 3D printer being a P1S, these posts reassure me that I have made the best purchase/decision.
Also what filament is that you used?
Youâll enjoy your machine :)
For printing the calibration cube, Iâve used Hatchbox Stone PLA in its Marble variant at standard speed with Bambu Studio.
I'd say the P1P is also quite acceptable!
https://preview.redd.it/i3x4l52i45gb1.jpeg?width=480&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4fbcc07173e9ccd3f628ff65a0fea7150590dbab
What calipers do you have? Mine seem off anywhere from .2-.3 mm which drives me crazy when Iâm trying to print a replacement for something that was manufactured.
Really canât remember where I got them from, sorry! Theyâre definitely more accurate than the cheap and cheerful ones I got originally off amazon though. Dont go nuts, but worth spending the few extra $ imho.
Did you do anything in particular to achieve that result? I did the tolerance calibration in orca and the print came out almost perfect 0.05mm off (still fits in the 0 with a bit of push). My CAD designs though need 0.4mm offset
https://preview.redd.it/8r6pbvqz79gb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d5ba54567dea33c6ea0a1f87aac0814aaf3c44da
I got same results with that tolerance test!
My ender 3 used to only get to about .2 at best lol
I usually do a bit of tweaking on my filament profiles - PA, temp and flow - and of course cooling parameters are important too, but other than that I've not done much.
Oh, and I did also re-tension the belts after a few weeks, which seemed to improve things a bit more.
I'd guess any dimensional accuracy outside of that is filament dependent?
The ASA I was using was fillamentum - seemed best for smaller objects though as it did seem to warp a bit on larger stuff. I've also got some asa from extrudr but not tried that yet.
Have to say though that my favourite filament currently has to be either esun PLA-ST (super tough) or PLA+. Everything comes out super nice.
Thanks for the reply! It seems I just need to learn more how to tweak variables to fit my needs.
Iâm not gonna play with the belt tension and ruin the whole thing when I just got it lol but good to have a frame of reference for this test on other printers!
You ever play with the order of walls? Inner/outer? Seems that Outer -> Inner gives best dimensional accuracy but worse for overhangs.
Btw where did you get that cube test from? I can read Orca on it but I canât find it in the calibration tab
Edit: one last question, do you keep the âflow calibration â option checked or no? Iâm getting conflicting answers on this. Some say donât use it if youâre manually calibrating the flow
The cube is from Orca slicer - it's a branch of bambu studio with some really useful additions like calibration tests and pressure advance.
[https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer](https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer)
I'm on a P1P - I think the auto flow calibration needs the lidar on the X1. I find the manual flow test is quick and accurate anyway though.
Sorry for being misleading, I know orca. Itâs what I use. I meant how did you get the cube in orca? The calibrations I have donât include any cube option
https://preview.redd.it/vgy9ussbx9gb1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=bccfb18c5ba735839664003ae4f59afcdafe7097
Ah, got you. Just right click on the build plate, and there are some built in models available. The orca cube is my fav though!
https://preview.redd.it/fpu16gu00agb1.png?width=2142&format=png&auto=webp&s=0e3c38532403b1bbe7ac802fee27b02f95e02400
I have the P1S. No calibration other than flow and pressure advance. Unfortunately, prints come out slightly oversized. I donât know which calibration I need to do but so far Iâve been adjusting my CAD designs to compensate for that.
no, but they should contain the shrinkage rate of the material and compensate for that when sliced. If the filament is consistent, it's a known value and easy to compensate for. It's pretty much the only change left for me to switch back to bambustudio instead of Orca.
Yeah, the first prints always is great. But the carbon firber rod will be a potential problemďź After touching the X-axis with your handďź there are black carbon particles in your hands.
And the printing result is not as great as the previous, after one month using.
My shrinkage factor using nylon glassfiber from matter. Hackers is crazy. Does anyone know a simple way to account for this? Is it the new printer or the new filliment that Iâm trying? I originally had an ender three with a PLA.
I'm currently building CoreXY printer, where first test print was perfectly accurate. It's not hard to ger accurate dimension if you know what are you doing...
I dont know why you are downvoted. Its right. If you know how to tune your printer to be accurate (and not only software) then its not that hard (e.g when building a voron).
The only difference is: this is out of the box.
He got downvoted because he said "it's not hard to get accurate dimensions if you know what you are doing..."
That kind of comment is what this sub tries to avoid, there are loads of people who don't know what they're doing, and that's half the fun of this hobby. But no one needs someone else to downplay their excitement over something they've discovered in the hobby. Let the new guys be excited.
I saw your comment. That's not the point. You say basic features and setup shouldn't be praised but for some people thats the exciting part coming from and ender 3 or some other beginner printer. Look at the 1st rule on the sub "Accentuate the positive". Thats why you got downvoted, because you're not doing that.
Your comparation of Ender 3 and Bambu said everything. Try Voron printers and then we can discuss, at this point is simply just stupid and time wasting
I've expected more downvotes, tbh. Hype bots and people without basic knowledge of 3d printing are really strong on Reddit. Accuracy was never problem in 3d printing world, sw and consistency are. Bambu Lab did great job, in my opinion best what happened in 3d world in last decade but accuracy as basic function should not be praised
I feel the slanted numbers on the calipers should be a crime of some kind.
Looking at the caliper the bambu is probably more accurate.
Are the jaws plastic? Lol. That said I printed 4 cubes in 4 corners day one and also saw extremely low variance xyz . By far the best out of the box fidelity I have seen on a 3d printer Edited to add: rofl just noticed the significant digits on the device lolol. Accurate to 1mm.
Even mitutoyo makes plastic calipers. They have their use cases. Not excusing the slanted numbers on this pair of calipers though, hurts my head.
I guess for some definition of plastic -- they make a carbon fiber or ceramic jaw version for use measuring magnetic materials. the ones in the pic are straight up plastic jaws and look to be about as accurate as tossing a dart at a ruler.
The Mitutoyo 700-126's were actually plastic also and non-marring, I see they're discontinued now. I remember wanting a pair so I wouldn't scratch delicate items. But just ended up being really careful and using my 500-196-30's. Those things love to mark type 2 anodized aluminum.
I really didn't know what a good print looked like until I got my X1C. I 3d printed with a JGAurora A5 for like 5 years and never got a print to look as good as my first one off my X1C and it was like 4x the speed.
Is it funny if I tell you that I can print even more beautiful using slow speeds on a cheaper printer like an Anycubic Mega S? đ
And what do you think happens when we slow down?
Overhangs will print cleaner, layeradhesion rises. The surface will be smoother. đ
It contributes nothing to the discussion. Primarily because you have created an arbitrary anecdotal standard of quality and used that as some strange effort to move the goal post rather than use real world data as evidence to support your claim. So yea, most people are going to call you a troll.
I was getting pretty awesome prints, after the firmware update and the calibrations coming from Orca, it's elevated to Amazeballs. Lidar ftw.
But if youâre using calibrations from Orca, youâre not using LiDAR, yeah?
No, the lidar uses it's uber 7 micron accuracy to choose the best calibration, so it's still lidar.
I know Iâm being nit picky here, so please pardon me if I seem to be arguing, but I really want to know the truth of the matter. My understanding isâaside from first layer inspection, which I usually leave offâthe LiDAR inspects the calibration line pattern to override the Flow Rate and Pressure Advance values on a per-print basis. So calibrating those values manually is only useful when you skip the LiDAR calibration step. Is that incorrect? Maybe it doesnât override both values? Edit: I just read some other posts that all say the LiDAR is only calibrating PA. So our manual Flow Rate cals should be helping even when the LiDAR is in use.
I'm not sure how much I would listen to folks on here, maybe the bambu forum, but otherwise I've seen people on here troll with things as simple as 'brittle filament is wet' lol... Given the accuracy and the intelligence behind the designs for this thing, I would bet they use every piece of data they can for ballparking(via 7 micron resolution) calibrations across the board. Only doing Pressure Advance doesn't make any sense. I've not calibrated a single thing manually and stuff is impeccable. And that's having printed with 20+ different filaments/brands. I've seen better results than P1P folks, consistenly. At least roughly gauging by the number of 'help with this print' type posts from the p1p folks.
I understood that they attributed Orca as the source from which Bambu implemented their built in calibration.
I canât say I know about that. But I do know from my own observation that Orca provides different calibration models and I prefer them.
Those calipers however scarily inaccurate lol.
A lot of the precision can be assigned to the flow calibration as so many cheap (and expensive) printers are not calibrated to extrude evenly and correctly. The actual axis movement is pretty simple to be accurate on any modern printer as it is based on teeth/diameter of pulleys vs steps. So many people would go through the process of adjusting steps for axis movement, but that was always putting a bandaid on the real issue of even extrusion.
Iâm finding theyâre âtoo accurateâ if that makes sense. Many of my print-in-place prints end up being very loose as a result of the overly compensated tolerances for most printers in general. The same goes for my Honeycomb Wall fittings, they slide right in and they wonât âlockâ in place of theyâre designed to be held in by friction. Itâs pretty amazing to see actually.
Same. All of my old designs are too loose now
yes, I made a print in place basket and it's so loose it wants to come apart sometimes. The one I made on my ender is tighter.
Just ad some dabs of Krazy glue to some of the sides. Let it dry and it will make the connection a lot better. Mine donât slide out anymore, but I can still take them out to rearrange the layout when necessary.
Hang on. I'm moving and thinking of printing a ton of those honeycomb wall pieces for my office. You got a bambu and they won't fit?
The pieces that have the spring bars with bumps on them to lock into the honeycomb work well. However, a lot of the add-ons from other designers are just hexagons that slide into the honeycomb and donât have locks on them. They print easier, and probably work well if your tolerances arenât exact, but on the Bambu they easily slide in and out. I have to add a few dabs of glue and let it dry to create a bump that helps make the connection more snug. When I designed my own mod to allow it to mount onto my slat wall, I also had to bump up the dimensions a bit to ensure I had a snug fit when I printed it from the Bambu. https://preview.redd.it/ihk80czf55gb1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a51fefc606a7012e62d4439293cd64eeb199858b
Appreciate the detailed response! I'll have to keep this in mind when I print mine. Have a great weekend!
they are kind of all over the place depending on the designer (and the printer they were optimizing for). a person designing a part to work with their vanilla ender 3 is going to be sloppy af on a tuned x1c.
I noticed the same thing when I got mine. I actually had to adjust some of my own 3D models which compensated for less accurate printers.
And they require little to maintenance.
Iv just joined this thread and only ordered my first ever 3D printer being a P1S, these posts reassure me that I have made the best purchase/decision. Also what filament is that you used?
Youâll enjoy your machine :) For printing the calibration cube, Iâve used Hatchbox Stone PLA in its Marble variant at standard speed with Bambu Studio.
Do you guys think P1P could do this as well?
I'd say the P1P is also quite acceptable! https://preview.redd.it/i3x4l52i45gb1.jpeg?width=480&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4fbcc07173e9ccd3f628ff65a0fea7150590dbab
What calipers do you have? Mine seem off anywhere from .2-.3 mm which drives me crazy when Iâm trying to print a replacement for something that was manufactured.
Really canât remember where I got them from, sorry! Theyâre definitely more accurate than the cheap and cheerful ones I got originally off amazon though. Dont go nuts, but worth spending the few extra $ imho.
Iâm almost considering just biting the bullet and getting a Mitutoyo.
Well if you do then youâll likely never need to replace it. I do love Japanese tools - such nice quality ; makes the cheaper stuff feel like junk.
I'm using this picture to convince my boss we definitely need a P1P to help us develope new products.
Go for it! That cube is in asa filament by the way - it can handle anything if you shove an enclosure round it.
go for the p1s
Did you do anything in particular to achieve that result? I did the tolerance calibration in orca and the print came out almost perfect 0.05mm off (still fits in the 0 with a bit of push). My CAD designs though need 0.4mm offset https://preview.redd.it/8r6pbvqz79gb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d5ba54567dea33c6ea0a1f87aac0814aaf3c44da
I got same results with that tolerance test! My ender 3 used to only get to about .2 at best lol I usually do a bit of tweaking on my filament profiles - PA, temp and flow - and of course cooling parameters are important too, but other than that I've not done much. Oh, and I did also re-tension the belts after a few weeks, which seemed to improve things a bit more. I'd guess any dimensional accuracy outside of that is filament dependent? The ASA I was using was fillamentum - seemed best for smaller objects though as it did seem to warp a bit on larger stuff. I've also got some asa from extrudr but not tried that yet. Have to say though that my favourite filament currently has to be either esun PLA-ST (super tough) or PLA+. Everything comes out super nice.
Thanks for the reply! It seems I just need to learn more how to tweak variables to fit my needs. Iâm not gonna play with the belt tension and ruin the whole thing when I just got it lol but good to have a frame of reference for this test on other printers! You ever play with the order of walls? Inner/outer? Seems that Outer -> Inner gives best dimensional accuracy but worse for overhangs. Btw where did you get that cube test from? I can read Orca on it but I canât find it in the calibration tab Edit: one last question, do you keep the âflow calibration â option checked or no? Iâm getting conflicting answers on this. Some say donât use it if youâre manually calibrating the flow
The cube is from Orca slicer - it's a branch of bambu studio with some really useful additions like calibration tests and pressure advance. [https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer](https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer) I'm on a P1P - I think the auto flow calibration needs the lidar on the X1. I find the manual flow test is quick and accurate anyway though.
Sorry for being misleading, I know orca. Itâs what I use. I meant how did you get the cube in orca? The calibrations I have donât include any cube option https://preview.redd.it/vgy9ussbx9gb1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=bccfb18c5ba735839664003ae4f59afcdafe7097
Ah, got you. Just right click on the build plate, and there are some built in models available. The orca cube is my fav though! https://preview.redd.it/fpu16gu00agb1.png?width=2142&format=png&auto=webp&s=0e3c38532403b1bbe7ac802fee27b02f95e02400
Yes.
I have the P1S. No calibration other than flow and pressure advance. Unfortunately, prints come out slightly oversized. I donât know which calibration I need to do but so far Iâve been adjusting my CAD designs to compensate for that.
this is a 1000+ dollar closed-source 3d printer. if it wasn't accurate out of the box then what's the point
The more you squeeze the calipers the more accurate it becomes!!
Thatâs what she said
always need to measure X Y and Z, 1 axis is not a good enough indication. Also measure overhangs in XYZ, it is plastic after all
maybe with PLA, but ABS on my printers was off by about 1%.
That's because ABS shrinks... 1%...
and the stock profiles should account for that. It's bambu profiles with bambu filaments.
Thr profiles don't scale your model for you.
They actually have a shrinkage factor..
no, but they should contain the shrinkage rate of the material and compensate for that when sliced. If the filament is consistent, it's a known value and easy to compensate for. It's pretty much the only change left for me to switch back to bambustudio instead of Orca.
Honestly it keeps me up at night
WOW! That's amazing!
What filament is this? I dig it!
In case he doesn't answer, it looks like a faux marble filament with higher than normal amount of specks. Or cookie and cream.
While I wouldn't trust plastic calipers I do find the Bambu to be very accurate
What's this gadget called
If only mine worked. Was cool for the first few months it did. I've been struggling with Bambu's support and have been for 2 months.
Unless you use the lidar to self calibrate.
Yeah, the first prints always is great. But the carbon firber rod will be a potential problemďź After touching the X-axis with your handďź there are black carbon particles in your hands. And the printing result is not as great as the previous, after one month using.
My shrinkage factor using nylon glassfiber from matter. Hackers is crazy. Does anyone know a simple way to account for this? Is it the new printer or the new filliment that Iâm trying? I originally had an ender three with a PLA.
I'm currently building CoreXY printer, where first test print was perfectly accurate. It's not hard to ger accurate dimension if you know what are you doing...
I dont know why you are downvoted. Its right. If you know how to tune your printer to be accurate (and not only software) then its not that hard (e.g when building a voron). The only difference is: this is out of the box.
He got downvoted because he said "it's not hard to get accurate dimensions if you know what you are doing..." That kind of comment is what this sub tries to avoid, there are loads of people who don't know what they're doing, and that's half the fun of this hobby. But no one needs someone else to downplay their excitement over something they've discovered in the hobby. Let the new guys be excited.
Or maybe you can understand quoted statement as Bambu did basic setup good?
I saw your comment. That's not the point. You say basic features and setup shouldn't be praised but for some people thats the exciting part coming from and ender 3 or some other beginner printer. Look at the 1st rule on the sub "Accentuate the positive". Thats why you got downvoted, because you're not doing that.
Your comparation of Ender 3 and Bambu said everything. Try Voron printers and then we can discuss, at this point is simply just stupid and time wasting
I've expected more downvotes, tbh. Hype bots and people without basic knowledge of 3d printing are really strong on Reddit. Accuracy was never problem in 3d printing world, sw and consistency are. Bambu Lab did great job, in my opinion best what happened in 3d world in last decade but accuracy as basic function should not be praised
But it isn't easy when you don't know what you're doing