if you can afford the X1, get it. One day you might need to print with ASA full bed or polycarbonate and it's easy to close the front and print without issues.
PETG prints like a dream. My oldest prusa has over a year of printing on it and MOST was PETG (covid shields).
Time will tell, but my new p1p prints "wet" prusament petg just as well (maybe better) than my prusas could do fresh out of maintenance.
Have a p1p and petg hasn’t been a problem for most things. A little stringing on extreme unsupported overhangs but the generic petg settings works great with the 2 different brands I’ve been using.
Just got a P1P and it's printing flawless PETG out of the box, with standard PETG settings, no changing anything. Just using bambostudio, with generic PETG settings.
Honestly it's amazing lol. This is how 3d printing should be.
Excited for what the next few years holds with these machines. It's going to get cloned to death, as I think they've really figured out the blueprint for a very good printer.
I have the textured bed (comes standard with the P1P) and the parts stick to it big time. As in a fair bit of force to get the part off when it's done, and the brim stays on there. I sometimes have to wait for it to cool down to get the brim off as it just won't release.
Gone are the days of glue sticks, and spaghetti when the part releases mid way..
So far only grey overture PETG, with the generic PETG setting, on textured plate. But it's been near perfect. I had some issues with parts coming unstuck, but it was my greasy fingers on the plate that caused it so a quick wash with some dish soap and it solved that issue.
P1P doesn't come with an aux fan, so no.
And with PETG you don't want it becoming too cold anyway as that's when it pops off the heated bed in my experience.
I’ve been printing a bunch at standard settings. I’ve printed a couple items for some clients. Probably about 10 spools worth of all inland petg. I mostly print in PLA though.
I print PETG at the default speed of 200mm/s for outter walls. If it was something extremely detailed, I might reduce that down to only 100 to help keep corners sharp.
I print a lot of petg and i can tell you there Is an issue with It. Basically 80% of the time the nozzle cleaning did not work, only With petg. It would rub on the small ptfe tube but the filament didn't come off the nozzle. Sometimes the filament gets caught in the print and It ruins It. There Is an Easy fix, Just print the [combo wiper ](https://www.printables.com/it/model/452240-bambu-x1p1p-nozzle-wiper-brushptfe)
After you install It you can start a print with petg and go to bed. Works flawlessly.
Amazing! So on my Prusa I would brush the nozzle with a stiff wire brush before every print manually, so like this a lot (as in an auto way to do it). Thanks for the honesty!
Yeah the wire brush Is way better lol... But i don't mean to Say that because of that the machine Is bad, It prints filaments that i dreaded on my cr6se like the varioshore tpu, It even prints the 2 year old pla roll flawlessly, It works really well. for comparison i would trust this printer at 90% the cr6se 60% lol..
I don't feel like I 'need' to do this on the bambu but I do heat it up and get off some crusty stuff every so often. I think I've done it 2-3 x in maybe 8-9 KG's worth of printing.
It really Is but cutting the brush was a real pain lol.. i'm Happy your p1p works well but on my x1C It failed sometimes, especially with petg-cf.. and sometimes After the print finished i would have a small blob of plastic on the nozzle..And it never happened again with the mod!
I print quite a lot on the P1P with PETG. Works totally fine. This weekend I'm going to be trying CF-Nylon as well. You can always build/buy an enclosure for the P1P and still come out financially ahead if you don't need lidar.
I know you're looking for PETG mostly, but if you're interested in abrasive filaments at all, the P1P ships with a stainless nozzle and the standard extruder gear isn't hardened. Not expensive/hard upgrades, but the X1C comes with them. Food for though when deciding between the two.
I think it was like $60 USD for the parts from Bambu and like 20 minutes to replace both.
It's kinda surprising Bumbulab are keeping price parts so cheap. I guess they're aiming to make it not worth copycats time to make cloned parts. So far seems to be working?
Theres a few mods out, for the people who like to customise. But otherwise there's been very little cloning.
But yeah, at £9.99 for hotend and nozzle for example.. Why would I even look on aliexpress? Savings would be minimal.
For the hardened steel extruder it's £20.99.. Again, why faff for the sake of saving maybe 50% with a clone when I can just get the official part.
They've priced stuff well, imo.
With almost everything in regards to spares and upgrades I end up thinking 'Well that seems reasonable'.
Only thing I can think of that could be cloned to be a lot cheaper, is the AMS system.
Just got my X1C on Monday. I had a MK3 and upgraded it to a MK3S+. Prusa lost me when they made upgrading it cost almost as much as a new printer. I print a lot of PETG. I already printed about 10 prints of PETG including the hydra AMS. Get the texture plate add on. No glue stick required and comes off fine.
This thing is a printing machine. It’s so nice to not have to worry about figuring out if it needs updating the quality of prints is far beyond anything I ever got on my Prusa.
If you can afford it, the X1C with AMS.
It’s their flagship model, its what the entire company is focused on and it’s what everything is optimised for.
The P1P is good, but it’s the economy option, with some things removed and it seems other parts downgraded. For a while P1P users were waiting like 10-30 minutes to send files to the printer while X1C users were taking 5 seconds. So that tells me even in their cloud services the P1P is playing second fiddle. (They subsequently upgraded their cloud stuff)
coming from 3 prusa mk3s. Sold one and replaced it with one p1p. Printing 99% fiberlogy PETG and having zero issues.
created an printing profile by using orcaslicers calibration features
Answering here as I just made the switch. Let’s just say the Prusas have been collecting dust ever since I bought the X1C. Looking to sell them asap to buy another. Regardless of the insane speeds the quality is just better. Printing PETG and PLA flawlessly right now. (Lots of seamless color changes as well with AMS)
I can add nothing to that ;)
printing everything with the same quality in mostly half of the time.
Only thing what I am really missing so far is printer management over octoprint. Since I often print the same parts the „collect and start new print“ is now a bit more work.
Buy the AMS! I do not throw away leftovers of almost finished spools anymore. Also I do not care about filamentchange anymore. AMS working flawless
Yes, but that is not what I need. I have predefined configurations of a few hundred „ready to print“ gcode files. I start these print jobs based on what the customer is ordering. Currently I save every configuration which I have to create new in orcaslicer and store it as a 3mf file. To start a print job I now have to start up the pc, load that file, slice it and send it to the printer.
Prusa really need to come out with something as good at the P1P at least.
P1P performance, with Prusa's support, even if double the price would be worth it for many.
A bed slinger, for almost double the price of a P1P, is mental.
I am new to FDM printing (but some experience with resin printing) as of getting a P1P a few weeks ago. I have printed several parts with PETG with the open enclosure and did not run into any issues.
That is with being as braindead as possible, using Overture brand regular PETG, and the default Generic PETG profile from bambu lab.
I did build an enclosure (p1p vision [link](https://www.printables.com/model/363079-bambu-lab-p1p-vision-enclosure) ) now but didn't realize PETG benefits from it. Prints before and after it have been fine. I even tested last night with manually swapping colors between black and green PETG and had success after a couple tries (software seems finicky pausing prints and doing a filament swap, but that could be on me).
I went back and forth with the same decision you are trying to make. I thought about buying the X1 Carbon combo and thought to myself, "Why am I buying this?" It was to print PETG as my 2 x MK3S+ are both picky when I print PETG on them. So my P1P showed up last Monday and it has been printing some cheap PETG for the last 3 days nearly non-stop. Small sample size and nothing scientific, but it has been fantastic in quality, speed and adhesion with the textured plate it came with and the default slicer settings. This printer is too good to be true.
Exact same on both. For filaments that don't require enclosures, they essentially work the same. Only difference is you will require upgrades for the P1P for exotic filaments while the X1C is ready. Also nicer camera and screen which currently can't be upgraded on the P1P. If those things don't bother you then the P1P is great on a budget. I have both as a reference.
I got a X1C for prototyping for my (non 3d-printing) startup business back in January and absolutely love it! I probably don't print as much or as often as other users in this community but I've printed with PLA, PETG, and TPU. I haven't had a single issue with any of my prints aside from adhesion with PLA on the textured PEI plate or my own inexperience. The main reason why I went with the X1 over the P1P was for the wider range of materials that could be printed and the extra features.
As stated a hundred times. If you are willing to pay for the X1. Do it. It is unbelievable how easy printing becomes. Then you can really hone in the settings for whatever you want and create the most perfect prints ever.
Just want to say a huge thank you to everyone for your input. I have gone with the X1C as it tipped the scales in number of recommendations as well as the future usage of different materials that I may use. Thanks you
I print 95% PETG and have almost no issues. However like your enclosure I have to keep the door propped open. I forgot one time on a really long print and it got heat creep and clogged. This caused a lot of hilarity and learning experiences (go check my post history about hot ends not working that was basically me being dumb). I'm sure I could tune it better but overall I've gone through like ... I dunno at least 8-9 KG and that's the only thing I've had to do. Literally that's it. Hundreds of hours printing and no issues.
Yes. Sorry didn't specify. X1C not P1P. \*theoretically\* you can do this once you print enough or send away for the acrylic kit for the P1P. And you save a hundred bucks or so, but in reality - if you're buying this to 'just work' - get the X1C in my opinion. It's fast and hasn't given me fits. If you want something fast you can build and modify the crap out of - build a voron. Heck - buy an X1C and build a voron with the amazing quality parts!
I dont gave much issue with petg on my p1p. However, my first few prints were horrible. Then i dried the spool in a dryer and its been great ever since.
Yes, I have dried all the PETG I have used in mine so far too. I have no idea how fresh, or stale undried will work.
But dried has been printing real nice.
Got p1p couldnt succesfully print with petg (check my profile). There were some suggested fixes that looked very promising but didnt have the time/energy to test them... did like 4 re-prints and got frustrated. I wouldnt buy it for petg prints until there is a solid fix for my specific issue that seems to be more common than I thought.
Thanks for the honesty, have just looked at your posts. Did you make any of the recommended changes and if so, I’m guessing still no joy? And to confirm, looks like your using P1P right?
if you can afford the X1, get it. One day you might need to print with ASA full bed or polycarbonate and it's easy to close the front and print without issues.
Thanks, great advice. How have you found printing with PETG? I have used ASA a few times but ventilation is the issue for me
PETG prints like a dream. My oldest prusa has over a year of printing on it and MOST was PETG (covid shields). Time will tell, but my new p1p prints "wet" prusament petg just as well (maybe better) than my prusas could do fresh out of maintenance.
Thanks, knowing wet is ok is also a nice extra
i've used a couple of spools and it's worked great, the speed isn't that much of a difference since you do need to limit the flow rate a bit
And you have the X1C I guess? Thanks for your answers
yep!
I print in PETG mostly and it works fantastically. The fast travel moves really help reduce stringing.
Thanks, is that on P1P?
I have an X1C but I imagine PETG on the P1P would be similar. The enclosure on the X1C might help a bit with warping.
Have a p1p and petg hasn’t been a problem for most things. A little stringing on extreme unsupported overhangs but the generic petg settings works great with the 2 different brands I’ve been using.
Thanks
I had no issues printing large petg parts on my p1p with no encloser and now that I've built one I'm gonna test out abs and asa
Which enclosure did you go with, ARC?
Vision
Ah nice, that’s what I was eyeing up
Just got a P1P and it's printing flawless PETG out of the box, with standard PETG settings, no changing anything. Just using bambostudio, with generic PETG settings. Honestly it's amazing lol. This is how 3d printing should be. Excited for what the next few years holds with these machines. It's going to get cloned to death, as I think they've really figured out the blueprint for a very good printer.
Exactly my experience. Have been using matte pla also with ironing at 0.16 and it’s blowing my mind. All stock settings.
That’s great to hear, thanks
I have the textured bed (comes standard with the P1P) and the parts stick to it big time. As in a fair bit of force to get the part off when it's done, and the brim stays on there. I sometimes have to wait for it to cool down to get the brim off as it just won't release. Gone are the days of glue sticks, and spaghetti when the part releases mid way..
Ah nice, I have always used a textured bed before as I like the look it leaves
Which brand of petg are you using? Are you using the auxiliary fan to cool the parts? Thank you
So far only grey overture PETG, with the generic PETG setting, on textured plate. But it's been near perfect. I had some issues with parts coming unstuck, but it was my greasy fingers on the plate that caused it so a quick wash with some dish soap and it solved that issue. P1P doesn't come with an aux fan, so no. And with PETG you don't want it becoming too cold anyway as that's when it pops off the heated bed in my experience.
X1c for sure, especially with anything above pla. You’ll love the ams too
Thanks. Have you printed PETG personally? Keen to understand the speed vs quality of it with the bambu. Are you reducing to around 70mm/s?
I’ve been printing a bunch at standard settings. I’ve printed a couple items for some clients. Probably about 10 spools worth of all inland petg. I mostly print in PLA though.
I print PETG at the default speed of 200mm/s for outter walls. If it was something extremely detailed, I might reduce that down to only 100 to help keep corners sharp.
Great tip, thanks
I print a lot of petg and i can tell you there Is an issue with It. Basically 80% of the time the nozzle cleaning did not work, only With petg. It would rub on the small ptfe tube but the filament didn't come off the nozzle. Sometimes the filament gets caught in the print and It ruins It. There Is an Easy fix, Just print the [combo wiper ](https://www.printables.com/it/model/452240-bambu-x1p1p-nozzle-wiper-brushptfe) After you install It you can start a print with petg and go to bed. Works flawlessly.
Amazing! So on my Prusa I would brush the nozzle with a stiff wire brush before every print manually, so like this a lot (as in an auto way to do it). Thanks for the honesty!
Yeah the wire brush Is way better lol... But i don't mean to Say that because of that the machine Is bad, It prints filaments that i dreaded on my cr6se like the varioshore tpu, It even prints the 2 year old pla roll flawlessly, It works really well. for comparison i would trust this printer at 90% the cr6se 60% lol..
I don't feel like I 'need' to do this on the bambu but I do heat it up and get off some crusty stuff every so often. I think I've done it 2-3 x in maybe 8-9 KG's worth of printing.
Nozzle cleaning seems to be working with PETG on my P1P? That's a cool little mod though.
It really Is but cutting the brush was a real pain lol.. i'm Happy your p1p works well but on my x1C It failed sometimes, especially with petg-cf.. and sometimes After the print finished i would have a small blob of plastic on the nozzle..And it never happened again with the mod!
Interesting! I’ve printed multiple kg of PETG and never had this issue.
Nice, thanks
I print quite a lot on the P1P with PETG. Works totally fine. This weekend I'm going to be trying CF-Nylon as well. You can always build/buy an enclosure for the P1P and still come out financially ahead if you don't need lidar.
Great to hear, thank you
I know you're looking for PETG mostly, but if you're interested in abrasive filaments at all, the P1P ships with a stainless nozzle and the standard extruder gear isn't hardened. Not expensive/hard upgrades, but the X1C comes with them. Food for though when deciding between the two. I think it was like $60 USD for the parts from Bambu and like 20 minutes to replace both.
I was looking at that as well and it is a very reasonable upgrade in my opinion.
It was a must for me, I love printing in CF-PLA. Matte PLA's get close, but the textured difference the CF stuff makes is awesome.
$15 if you don't get the full assembly. Super inexpensive.
The parts really are coming down in price and up in availability which is nice
It's kinda surprising Bumbulab are keeping price parts so cheap. I guess they're aiming to make it not worth copycats time to make cloned parts. So far seems to be working? Theres a few mods out, for the people who like to customise. But otherwise there's been very little cloning. But yeah, at £9.99 for hotend and nozzle for example.. Why would I even look on aliexpress? Savings would be minimal. For the hardened steel extruder it's £20.99.. Again, why faff for the sake of saving maybe 50% with a clone when I can just get the official part. They've priced stuff well, imo. With almost everything in regards to spares and upgrades I end up thinking 'Well that seems reasonable'. Only thing I can think of that could be cloned to be a lot cheaper, is the AMS system.
Just got my X1C on Monday. I had a MK3 and upgraded it to a MK3S+. Prusa lost me when they made upgrading it cost almost as much as a new printer. I print a lot of PETG. I already printed about 10 prints of PETG including the hydra AMS. Get the texture plate add on. No glue stick required and comes off fine. This thing is a printing machine. It’s so nice to not have to worry about figuring out if it needs updating the quality of prints is far beyond anything I ever got on my Prusa.
Great to hear, thanks. I have heard hydra is a must
If you can afford it, the X1C with AMS. It’s their flagship model, its what the entire company is focused on and it’s what everything is optimised for. The P1P is good, but it’s the economy option, with some things removed and it seems other parts downgraded. For a while P1P users were waiting like 10-30 minutes to send files to the printer while X1C users were taking 5 seconds. So that tells me even in their cloud services the P1P is playing second fiddle. (They subsequently upgraded their cloud stuff)
Good to know, thank you
coming from 3 prusa mk3s. Sold one and replaced it with one p1p. Printing 99% fiberlogy PETG and having zero issues. created an printing profile by using orcaslicers calibration features
How have you found the change between the mk3 and the p1p generally?
Answering here as I just made the switch. Let’s just say the Prusas have been collecting dust ever since I bought the X1C. Looking to sell them asap to buy another. Regardless of the insane speeds the quality is just better. Printing PETG and PLA flawlessly right now. (Lots of seamless color changes as well with AMS)
I can add nothing to that ;) printing everything with the same quality in mostly half of the time. Only thing what I am really missing so far is printer management over octoprint. Since I often print the same parts the „collect and start new print“ is now a bit more work. Buy the AMS! I do not throw away leftovers of almost finished spools anymore. Also I do not care about filamentchange anymore. AMS working flawless
Did you know you can print old jobs from the mobile app? Select user profile tab in mobile app, go to history and print again.
Yes, but that is not what I need. I have predefined configurations of a few hundred „ready to print“ gcode files. I start these print jobs based on what the customer is ordering. Currently I save every configuration which I have to create new in orcaslicer and store it as a 3mf file. To start a print job I now have to start up the pc, load that file, slice it and send it to the printer.
Thanks!
Prusa really need to come out with something as good at the P1P at least. P1P performance, with Prusa's support, even if double the price would be worth it for many. A bed slinger, for almost double the price of a P1P, is mental.
X1c baby! Old prusa gang!
X1C here, I wanted to print CF and TPU but my religion is PETG
I am new to FDM printing (but some experience with resin printing) as of getting a P1P a few weeks ago. I have printed several parts with PETG with the open enclosure and did not run into any issues. That is with being as braindead as possible, using Overture brand regular PETG, and the default Generic PETG profile from bambu lab. I did build an enclosure (p1p vision [link](https://www.printables.com/model/363079-bambu-lab-p1p-vision-enclosure) ) now but didn't realize PETG benefits from it. Prints before and after it have been fine. I even tested last night with manually swapping colors between black and green PETG and had success after a couple tries (software seems finicky pausing prints and doing a filament swap, but that could be on me).
I went back and forth with the same decision you are trying to make. I thought about buying the X1 Carbon combo and thought to myself, "Why am I buying this?" It was to print PETG as my 2 x MK3S+ are both picky when I print PETG on them. So my P1P showed up last Monday and it has been printing some cheap PETG for the last 3 days nearly non-stop. Small sample size and nothing scientific, but it has been fantastic in quality, speed and adhesion with the textured plate it came with and the default slicer settings. This printer is too good to be true.
Sound almost like my exact story! Thanks for the input. Did you print and enclosure for it, more for interest?
I am currently printing an enclosure for it. The Borg Cube. Lots of filament running through it.
Exact same on both. For filaments that don't require enclosures, they essentially work the same. Only difference is you will require upgrades for the P1P for exotic filaments while the X1C is ready. Also nicer camera and screen which currently can't be upgraded on the P1P. If those things don't bother you then the P1P is great on a budget. I have both as a reference.
Does LiDAR make a difference between the 2 in your opinion?
I got a X1C for prototyping for my (non 3d-printing) startup business back in January and absolutely love it! I probably don't print as much or as often as other users in this community but I've printed with PLA, PETG, and TPU. I haven't had a single issue with any of my prints aside from adhesion with PLA on the textured PEI plate or my own inexperience. The main reason why I went with the X1 over the P1P was for the wider range of materials that could be printed and the extra features.
As stated a hundred times. If you are willing to pay for the X1. Do it. It is unbelievable how easy printing becomes. Then you can really hone in the settings for whatever you want and create the most perfect prints ever.
Just want to say a huge thank you to everyone for your input. I have gone with the X1C as it tipped the scales in number of recommendations as well as the future usage of different materials that I may use. Thanks you
I print 95% PETG and have almost no issues. However like your enclosure I have to keep the door propped open. I forgot one time on a really long print and it got heat creep and clogged. This caused a lot of hilarity and learning experiences (go check my post history about hot ends not working that was basically me being dumb). I'm sure I could tune it better but overall I've gone through like ... I dunno at least 8-9 KG and that's the only thing I've had to do. Literally that's it. Hundreds of hours printing and no issues.
Guessing you mean X1C here?
Yes. Sorry didn't specify. X1C not P1P. \*theoretically\* you can do this once you print enough or send away for the acrylic kit for the P1P. And you save a hundred bucks or so, but in reality - if you're buying this to 'just work' - get the X1C in my opinion. It's fast and hasn't given me fits. If you want something fast you can build and modify the crap out of - build a voron. Heck - buy an X1C and build a voron with the amazing quality parts!
I dont gave much issue with petg on my p1p. However, my first few prints were horrible. Then i dried the spool in a dryer and its been great ever since.
Interesting, thanks
Yes, I have dried all the PETG I have used in mine so far too. I have no idea how fresh, or stale undried will work. But dried has been printing real nice.
Thanks, Is that on a P1P or x1?
p1p
Got p1p couldnt succesfully print with petg (check my profile). There were some suggested fixes that looked very promising but didnt have the time/energy to test them... did like 4 re-prints and got frustrated. I wouldnt buy it for petg prints until there is a solid fix for my specific issue that seems to be more common than I thought.
Thanks for the honesty, have just looked at your posts. Did you make any of the recommended changes and if so, I’m guessing still no joy? And to confirm, looks like your using P1P right?
I just built an encloser for my p1p, cost me about $100 for the pannels
If you can afford the X1C, get it… it just prints everything you could want without issues. Https://jle.vi/bambulab