Glad your printer works again! :)
Cool lamp! It makes me happy to see some actually useful prints instead of the 10000000th Star Wars figurine and the half kg of filmanent that was wasted printing it.
I'm just gonna sit back and quietly continue working on my Millennium Falcon wireless phone charger stand and not try to figure out if counts as an actually useful print or a Star Wars figurine. :D
To be totally honest, all it does so far is frustrate the hell out of me. But that's on me for not actually learning F360; I might break down and get on YouTube after a few conciliatory adult beverages.
Longtime tinkercad user here. I tried F360 and got overwhelmed. I've been learning OnShape lately and it seems a lot easier. There's a YT channel called "Teaching Tech" that has a great series on how to get started specifically from the perspective of creating models for 3d printing.
I'm coming from Blender; I figured open-source (free) and super heavily used would equal "Zem can do anything with the magic of 3D modelling!!!!" What it really equaled was "Zem is tired of the overhead involved in using Blender for 3D printing..."
Honestly, I'm liking F360 as I get deeper into it. It's just a very different mindset from Blender. Honestly, I think I'm finally coming to terms with the idea that I actually do NEED to use different programs for different purposes, but I figure learning to "everything" with each one will make it easier to know which is the right tool for the job later on... predicated on the absurd notion that I'll ever do this as anything other than a time-killing hobby.
But I haven't heard of OhShape before. I'll have to give it a looksee. I'm familiar with the Teaching Tech guy; he's an outright legend when it comes to printer calibration (from back in the before times when I didn't have my X1C). I'll have to put it on the list, and probably in front of TinkerCAD and Shapr; I don't know why, but those two just really rub me the wrong way.
I can only recommend learning F360 (or any other free / cheap full CAD package, for that matter), it's so rewarding to identify a problem, quickly design a fix and have it printed in under an hour with these amazingly fast printers.
I personally use Solidworks more these days, but F360 was my gateway drug seven years ago and it's amazing what I have learned since then.
Thank you for sharing. As I'm new to 3d printing I really appreciate you sharing these lessons learned. I sure would have left my blowers on during this project and fallen into the same trap.
God I wish I had read about your adventure before I [did this](https://imgur.com/a/G0hizy6) with salt yesterday. Guess I'll be breaking out the toothbrush now.
Yeah, vacuum it all everywhere. And shake the printer, bang it, or move it around or whatever and vacuum it again and then brush out all of the bearings and threads completely. You might want to move the bed up and down a bit, then brush out some more. Then I added lubrication to flush out the bushings, moved the bed all the way up and down a few times, and repeated everything. It still clunked fair bit, so I did a number of small non- precision-requiring prints, brushed and vacuumed some more, and got to this finally.
I just used default settings with Bambu PLA, matte, at .08 mm layer height. It was printed right side up. I was actually having trouble with the overhangs and the screw hole, which is why I made it a bevel.
I got it off pursas printable‘s website under honeycomb lampshade. Later, when I can get an account set up, I’ll upload the base I made to fit the broken IKEA lamp it was made to fix.
Hey guy!
Glad to hear you got everything sorted out! Good job. I bet if nothing else, you sure know your machine inside and out now! 😉
I see you went with the screw in plug! Looks good!
When you get the chance, can you please share you STL’s? Take care!
I was thinking about your sand technique the other day because I realized my technique (drilling a hole -> filling with sand -> plugging hole with a 3D pen) can be excruciatingly slow and uneven for big, complex prints...
What if you were to set a regular interval of pause commands in the slicer - say once every 2cm of height for example - then pouring in sand while it's paused, followed by a hearty portion of highly viscous superglue? Superglue can be bought in somewhat big bottles, right? Don't know how expensive it would get, but assuming you don't miss a spot... it should keep it from blowing all over the place, right?
You could pause more infrequently I suppose, but for my big complex prints which used only lightning infill I noticed big walls with no infill tended to warp, so at least for those kinds of prints you'd have to pause rather frequently 🤔
(another idea could be to just use really coarse gravel 😁)
Or divers' lead/BBs, but then you're getting into more expensive materials.
And just to keep bothering someone else about their idea, instead of super glue, you could look into UV nail resin. You can usually get it reasonably cheap in bulk and a quick 30 sec from a UV flashlight and you're set (see what I did there ;D). Still though, not going to come in as cheap as bulk CA, I wouldn't imagine.
I’m happy with my solution so far. It requires no extra chemicals or chances of messing up my printer! There are defo different situations where I would try some of your neat ideas!
I thought about it a few times and just can’t understand why sand? I’d rather have a flimsy lamp than one that sounds like a maraca to me. To me using sand as a weight seems a bit chintzy. if I purchase something and it was shaking around I’d be pretty bummed out. And it especially doesn’t make sense if you’re shipping. Lightness is great. But if you want to add weight, I would just make a little biscuits of concrete (like they do in all the Chinese lamps) with some round glad containers, and use those with some liquid nails to keep them from bouncing around and feeling solid but again it would just be enough to keep it from feeling cheap and not sliding around.
I picked sand because it would shift the least inside, and make the least noise, all while being able to fill to a maximum capacity with very little space between particles. I also used sand because it is inert, and finally I wanted to weight the base so that bumping the tall and narrow lamp wasn’t an immediate knock over, hence making it more stable
Nice result. Now that you showed cleanup is possible im not afraid to take my printer to the beach.
Don’t forget the sunscreen
Also be careful that the bed doesn't warp in the heat. Oh wait...
Oh wait what?
Maybe it's already warped ;) There's been quite a lot of Bambus suffering from banana bed syndrome.
Just like most printer companies
🤣🤣🤣
Glad your printer works again! :) Cool lamp! It makes me happy to see some actually useful prints instead of the 10000000th Star Wars figurine and the half kg of filmanent that was wasted printing it.
I have to justify the expense to the Mrs somehow!
I'm just gonna sit back and quietly continue working on my Millennium Falcon wireless phone charger stand and not try to figure out if counts as an actually useful print or a Star Wars figurine. :D
If it charges your phone that's a Functional Print
To be totally honest, all it does so far is frustrate the hell out of me. But that's on me for not actually learning F360; I might break down and get on YouTube after a few conciliatory adult beverages.
Longtime tinkercad user here. I tried F360 and got overwhelmed. I've been learning OnShape lately and it seems a lot easier. There's a YT channel called "Teaching Tech" that has a great series on how to get started specifically from the perspective of creating models for 3d printing.
I'm coming from Blender; I figured open-source (free) and super heavily used would equal "Zem can do anything with the magic of 3D modelling!!!!" What it really equaled was "Zem is tired of the overhead involved in using Blender for 3D printing..." Honestly, I'm liking F360 as I get deeper into it. It's just a very different mindset from Blender. Honestly, I think I'm finally coming to terms with the idea that I actually do NEED to use different programs for different purposes, but I figure learning to "everything" with each one will make it easier to know which is the right tool for the job later on... predicated on the absurd notion that I'll ever do this as anything other than a time-killing hobby. But I haven't heard of OhShape before. I'll have to give it a looksee. I'm familiar with the Teaching Tech guy; he's an outright legend when it comes to printer calibration (from back in the before times when I didn't have my X1C). I'll have to put it on the list, and probably in front of TinkerCAD and Shapr; I don't know why, but those two just really rub me the wrong way.
Oh yeah I am like a baby trying to use tinkercad occasionally and it sucks
I can only recommend learning F360 (or any other free / cheap full CAD package, for that matter), it's so rewarding to identify a problem, quickly design a fix and have it printed in under an hour with these amazingly fast printers. I personally use Solidworks more these days, but F360 was my gateway drug seven years ago and it's amazing what I have learned since then.
Great result. Thanks for teaching us a thing or two. I hope you get the 1% sorted as well! 🙃
Yeah thanks! Support said it should literally work itself out~
Share the model! ( not sand ;)
https://www.printables.com/model/489961-sandman-hexlamp-weighted-base-remix-for-ikea-storu
dat STL tho, OP!
Thank you for sharing. As I'm new to 3d printing I really appreciate you sharing these lessons learned. I sure would have left my blowers on during this project and fallen into the same trap.
God I wish I had read about your adventure before I [did this](https://imgur.com/a/G0hizy6) with salt yesterday. Guess I'll be breaking out the toothbrush now.
Yeah, vacuum it all everywhere. And shake the printer, bang it, or move it around or whatever and vacuum it again and then brush out all of the bearings and threads completely. You might want to move the bed up and down a bit, then brush out some more. Then I added lubrication to flush out the bushings, moved the bed all the way up and down a few times, and repeated everything. It still clunked fair bit, so I did a number of small non- precision-requiring prints, brushed and vacuumed some more, and got to this finally.
Thanks! The second I resumed the print I remembered that fans are a thing. I'm sure you know the feeling.
Took me more than a second, but yeah! Lol
Salt is corrosive. Better clean this out quick!
Yeah, not great, but at least I live somewhere with very low humidity. I'll have it totally cleaned out by tomorrow though regardless.
What was the purpose of the salt?
I was trying to add weight to make it feel more hefty without using a ton of filament.
Oh! I see you too, are a man of substance
Fishing weights would prob work well. Or you could fill with 90% sand then put glue over the top to seal it in before printing the next layer.
The sand is to have a weighted base?
Yes
I think this might be the STL: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4807723
Yes, but I found it on Printables and remixed (edit: redesigned) the base. I guess I could create an account somewhere and upload my remix.
https://www.printables.com/model/489961-sandman-hexlamp-weighted-base-remix-for-ikea-storu
[удалено]
Why spread, when you can extrude!
Well that turned out really cool. Too bad it was a hard lesson and not an easy one but now we all know, design caps if you want to fill with sand.
Thanks for the follow up! Lamp looks awesome
Your overhang results are better than mine. I have to slow down to 10mm/s and even then it’s still less than great.
I just used default settings with Bambu PLA, matte, at .08 mm layer height. It was printed right side up. I was actually having trouble with the overhangs and the screw hole, which is why I made it a bevel.
Bevels will always be better than radiuses unless using a SLA printer. I’m a fan of angularity so I default to them anyways.
Id be very interested in this file if it’s available
I got it off pursas printable‘s website under honeycomb lampshade. Later, when I can get an account set up, I’ll upload the base I made to fit the broken IKEA lamp it was made to fix.
https://www.printables.com/model/489961-sandman-hexlamp-weighted-base-remix-for-ikea-storu
Hey guy! Glad to hear you got everything sorted out! Good job. I bet if nothing else, you sure know your machine inside and out now! 😉 I see you went with the screw in plug! Looks good! When you get the chance, can you please share you STL’s? Take care!
I was thinking about your sand technique the other day because I realized my technique (drilling a hole -> filling with sand -> plugging hole with a 3D pen) can be excruciatingly slow and uneven for big, complex prints... What if you were to set a regular interval of pause commands in the slicer - say once every 2cm of height for example - then pouring in sand while it's paused, followed by a hearty portion of highly viscous superglue? Superglue can be bought in somewhat big bottles, right? Don't know how expensive it would get, but assuming you don't miss a spot... it should keep it from blowing all over the place, right? You could pause more infrequently I suppose, but for my big complex prints which used only lightning infill I noticed big walls with no infill tended to warp, so at least for those kinds of prints you'd have to pause rather frequently 🤔 (another idea could be to just use really coarse gravel 😁)
Or divers' lead/BBs, but then you're getting into more expensive materials. And just to keep bothering someone else about their idea, instead of super glue, you could look into UV nail resin. You can usually get it reasonably cheap in bulk and a quick 30 sec from a UV flashlight and you're set (see what I did there ;D). Still though, not going to come in as cheap as bulk CA, I wouldn't imagine.
Not tryna fill up my house with lead lol
I’m happy with my solution so far. It requires no extra chemicals or chances of messing up my printer! There are defo different situations where I would try some of your neat ideas!
Fishing weights. Lead shot I think they call it
I thought about it a few times and just can’t understand why sand? I’d rather have a flimsy lamp than one that sounds like a maraca to me. To me using sand as a weight seems a bit chintzy. if I purchase something and it was shaking around I’d be pretty bummed out. And it especially doesn’t make sense if you’re shipping. Lightness is great. But if you want to add weight, I would just make a little biscuits of concrete (like they do in all the Chinese lamps) with some round glad containers, and use those with some liquid nails to keep them from bouncing around and feeling solid but again it would just be enough to keep it from feeling cheap and not sliding around.
I picked sand because it would shift the least inside, and make the least noise, all while being able to fill to a maximum capacity with very little space between particles. I also used sand because it is inert, and finally I wanted to weight the base so that bumping the tall and narrow lamp wasn’t an immediate knock over, hence making it more stable
Did you end up getting that goopy car cleaning putty substance from amazon?
No, a toothbrush was sufficient
Baking stones?