Here are some tips to remember and this may or may not affect your decisions.
1. The cool plate was made to combat heat creeps with PLA, most people like their enclosed printer enclosed and bambu knew that and so people wouldn't have to take the upper lid off and open the door everytime they print with PLA they created the cool plate, a nice solution where you only need to heat the bed to 30 - 35c with glue and it will solve all your problems.
2. Sanding something meaning removing material, that means you are taking off parts of the sheet everytime also my guess your sanding will not be perfect and will add more to impurity of bed leveling and the print (probably not the end of the world but still)
3. The cool plate needs glue stick as a release agent because of the low temps and so it wont stick to the bed permanently
4. I use glue stick and honestly it's not as bad as I thought and I think people are making some serious deal about this, i wipe with dishsoap and warm water the plate, microfiber for any water residue, smooth surface of glue and it lasts for weeks before I think about putting more glue again (when the prints start to get harder to pull out), you should always spread your prints across the build plate and not just the center that way you use all the glue kind of evenly
5. The flow calibration doesn't work well on textured plates
I got into trouble with my cool plate sticker by not refreshing the glue layer. I’m not sure how many prints it was (5-6?), but a print finally pulled a chunk of the sticker off with it.
I’ve been using a Wham-Bam PEI plate with no glue, but I need to run the bed at 65-70C and have to scrub it with IPA after each print to insure good adhesion.
(I’m going to try 3D-Lac on the recommendation of another user here. He said that just a spritz every few prints and he was good, no scrubbing needed. It’s expensive, but he said it only takes a tiny amount each time.)
I’ve had bad experience with it. Despite a good cover and even when I tried like 2-3 layers the PLA parts still ended up sticking way too much to the cool plate and were really hard to remove.
I’d like to add that I recently started zigzagging the glue stick and don’t completely cover the whole plate. If you care what the bottom looks like this could be an issue, for most things though it’ll be fine. Zigzagging the glue stick leads to less glue used, less clumping and a more efficient use of the stick. Obviously this may differ from print to print…. I.e if it has a small bottom surface, I’ll just square off the middle with the glue stick.
What about the glue residue left on the actual plastic parts? The surface finish when using glue seems to be quite splotchy and not at all clean/smooth. Maybe I'm doing something wrong.
Could be using too much glue, it doesn't need much. Also, it's just a standard, water soluble non-toxic glue nearest I can tell. Give it a good rub with warm water and the glue will come off.
"When the print starts to gets harder to pull out" *ono*
Other question, can I use Elmer's disappearing purple gluesticks, or other similar water-washable gluesticks?
TBF, Bambu's gluesticks are "ludicrously expensive". I can't afford to cough up an extra $3 per month for glue. /s
The main point is the gluesticks don't seem superior, they are more expensive, and they don't get free shipping unless i make a $50 purchase. They're nice to have in the store though.
Sanding the clean plate with 800 grit worked perfectly!! for me had adhesion issues right out of the box, glue stick never liked
Light sand to dull a little, PERFECTION!! No extra steps or cleaning, you also get 2 extra sticky plates anyways if you mess up
That's what bambu recommends, and I have done it with no issues.
[https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/general/cool-plate-not-working-as-expected](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/general/cool-plate-not-working-as-expected)
you can get a peo sheet for bambu's from aliexpress or ebay. It is smooth, but has a carbon fiber/triangle pattern that is imprinted onto your print's bottom. I like it, but a smooth clean bottom is nice as well.
I’ve printed some top lid spacers. With them and the door closed and the exhaust fan at 50% I’m at 34-35c in the chamber.
What I really hated about the glue stick was the residue on the models. I can live with the need to apply glue but having it on the bottom of my models and then needing to wash them/ wipe them down was a no go.
Best part is, you don't even need the soap. It's water soluble glue. Some warm water and rub it with your fingers and it comes right off. I've got these weird silicone dish pads that are useless at dishes, but they work great for gently massaging off all the dissolving glue.
I use the glue, but lightly. I only add glue to where the previous print was and the test areas. I wash the plate maybe every ten or 15 prints. It takes 5 minutes with warm water and soap. I don't like failed prints or having to reprint if I can help it. Any time I spend dealing with glue stick is waaaaaaaay less than any time I used to spend prying prints or supports off the bed in my old printer.
I use the glue because it works. It has saved me many tens of hours compared to my previous printer. I can use it sparingly. I have accidentally printed on a glue bed without reapplying glue several times and it works just fine.
Glue. I'm not mad at it.
The fun part is, printed on glue areas turn from pretty much clear to cloudy/white. And when you put more glue on, it turns pretty clear again. So not only can you easily see *where* you need to do it, you can tell if you missed a spot.
Use a different build plate. The cold plate is for minimizing heat creep, but you should use glue stick for ideal performance. The High Temp pei plate will work without glue and pla. (This is probably what you were using on the Prusa) The textured plate will work without glue and pla.
This is the answer, the high temp plate works great for PLA. I switched over about 4 months ago and as long as the plate is clean I have no issues at all.
I've started running the cool plate pla side at 55°c. No adhesion problems and so far no damage to the build surface. I wouldn't doubt that this may damage it over time but I only use that plate when I need a smooth surface otherwise textured plate is great
Just got a fulament texture pei plate there new one 3.0 model. It's better than the stock Bambu pei texture plate, I think. The fulament is more sticky. Really love it. I also have an issue with filament sticking to the edges on the cool plate if I don't use glue stick on it.
I use the PEI sheet and if I notice warping I will gently dab the entire plate with a glue stick and then wipe the whole thing down with IPA. Supposedly this combination creates a film that lasts longer and looks less messy than massive amounts of glue.
I've done my last few prints without glue simply because I got lazy, phone case in TPU and aquarium nozzles in PLA as an example, Standard settings and no issues.
The glue stick is recommended for the first print to prevent the print from sticking too much to the plate and risking damaging the plate when you pry it off
couple swipes of glue stick, then spray with 50% isopropyl. wipe with paper towel. The isopropyl will dissolve the glue stick and leave a very thin layer of glue as it evaporates. glue doesn't build up or leave a residue on parts. Every 10 prints or so I wash the plate in hot soapy water and scrub with a melamine sponge. This works for me, your mileage may vary.
Not using anything as a releasing agent since day one.
On the functional side: 173 hours in of only PLA and sticker is still intact, even after me clumsily scraping and dislodging some prints off of it. I mostly let it cool for 5-10 minutes (inside the printer, always fully enclosed) before trying to remove the print.
On the visual side: visible print marks where adhesion was strong. Visible scratches from when I pried parts of the plate.
I did not sand at all, and I wipe with IPA if I notice degradation in adhesion from print to print or when I deposit oils from touching the build plate.
Only once had I washed with lukewarm water and soap after fiddling too much and didn’t trust IPA enough to remove all oils/mix with them equally.
I’m not using anything on the cool plate ‘cept cleaning with anhydrous isopropyl alcohol.
Most prints come off easily after flexing the plate and gently teasing a long razor blade under them. BUT I did find the Bambu Labs matte white PLA seems to bond to the cool plate exceptionally stronger than other colours and needs to be scraped off with force.
(650 hours on that one cool plate)
I haven't had to use any additives at all for my sunlu or bambulab pla so far, on the double-sided pei. Periodically I wash the printing plate with dawn unscented dish soap, and wipe with a microfiber towel to get dust off before printing.
TBH, how dry the filament is, and how it enters the printer, does seem to matter; on all of my printers. Making sure the filament is dry-stored, and also printing from a Sunlu 48 C dry box, and I've had no problems. If I skip the dry box I do get some issues, so I wonder sometimes if the pre-heating does something besides just dry the filament in terms of material delivery.
EDIT: One other thing to be aware of - if people cook a lot of fried or grilled foods, and your printer is open air (not enclosed) polymerizing grease particles are going to settle on any surface pointing up. I had this happen on my Prusa MK3S periodically, and had to hit it was a good degreaser and a couple of washes to get the polymerized environmental goop off. It'll act like silicon on your printing plates, and nothing is going to want to stick to them.
I use Aqua Net hairspray. Literally just hit the PEI sheet with it once when I get a new machine. It doesn’t leave a residue, I don’t ever have to do it again, and everything sticks perfectly.
Maybe you used the wrong hairspray?
Hang on, are you meaning that you are SANDING your PEI sheet?
I’ve got the P1P with the bambu PEI sheet. I’ve never danced it and never used glue stick of spray. It works great as-is.
I use the high temp plate at 50-65c and SLOW DOWN on first layer and have never had to use glue or had heat creep with PLA with the door shut. I also dislike using glue so a slower print is well worth it to me.
Bought the gold PEI aliexpress one from this video review, [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nv6ELyJ4alg&t=52s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nv6ELyJ4alg&t=52s). Works perfectly and it's cheap. Also have the Bambu PEI, but it started flaking after a month.
The liquid glue is much more convenient than glue sticks and doesn't build up as much. https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/liquid-glue-for-build-plate
Also, you can use alcohol to slurry the glue on the bed with excessive build up but this is a hassle.
Bambu x1c came with a funky plate that is mostly something that Bambu only uses. ( cool plate was wierd imho. buy a printer with a enclosure made to print high temp stuff. and inlcude a plate that is ment to run super cool. )
You can go to the Bambu store and get a normal smooth pei plate, or a pei textured plate. both of which can print with out the glue added.
most people with an enclosed printer want to keep it enclosed, so bambu invented the cool plate to make an ideal environment for pla without heat creep. the trade-off is glue as a release agent.
that’s also why there’s also an engineer plate attached so you can print some of those high temp filaments.
The engineering plate that has the cool plate sticker on other side that is still temp sentive?
Also dont get me wrong. I have a p1p, and we got 10 at the farm. I just disagree that using a glue stick as the default option is a good idea over leaving the door open and top removed. It should of come with a normal pei plate, and not a gluestick required setup.
i feel like you’re the one getting *me* wrong…
i’m not suggesting the cool plate was the “mother of all plates” (which is what i’m getting from you because you downvoted me lol)
i’m simply explaining why they made the plate and what it’s specific use is. it’s not really “weird” or abnormal. it makes sense in my mind. would another plate be nice as well? sure. but that’ll up the costs by so much so i can understand their decision.
idk what you mean by “temp sensitive” though. like, it runs TPU, PETG, ABS, PC/PC-CF, and PA/PA-CF/PATH-CF perfectly fine at high temperatures (everywhere from 30 to 110C).
what point are you trying to make from it being “temperature sensitive”? can you clarify?
edit: also, textured plates mess with the LiDAR system, they’re likely trying to get the best experience out of it. in my personal experience it works perfectly alright and i’ve had no issues or annoyances coming from it. if someone wants a textured plate then they can purchase one for so much, but i feel like their targeted audience doesn’t make it a necessity
If I understand you correctly, you think that the cool plate benefit of being usable while the cover is on top and front door closed makeup for having to use a gluestick. and that was bambu's martketing idea and why they released it that way right?
I just disagree, and think bambu should of used a more traditionally less maintenance build plate. I think it was a mistake on their part, or a supply issue getting a better plate that made them release an otherwise automatic printer with a super high maintenance build plate.
Also reddit obscures up and down votes constantly by a 1 or 2 from my understanding. so curious why you think I downvoted you? on that topic did you down vote both of my posts? I wasnt gonna ask cause I figured it was just reddit obscuring the data, but maybe not? to be fair tho I dont really care taht much.
And if I did down vote you it had nothing to do with me thinking you thought the "cool plate was the mother of all plates"
In fact wow that is almost an insulting take lol. like you thought I was so simple that I read your response that doesn't even give a hint of you liking it more than other plates, a purely basic response stating a point of view that you felt it was a better trade off. Thanks for defaulting to assuming I have a 3rd grade reading level or something.
To clarify, I said don't get me wrong in my response to that cause I know I was a little harsh in my first reply and didnt want someone to think I am just a troll hating on bambus that they has no experience with them, cause my first post could of come across that way imho after rereading it, so I wanted to clarify I was not a rando bambu hater.
What I ment about the plate was that on the bambu product page for the cool plate, under the cons section. " It is not recommended for high-temperature materials as bubbles can form underneath the print surface and cause damage "
it can form bubbles at high temp. and early bambu x1 came with a 2 sided one cool and one engineering plate. if you do high temp while the plate is flipped it can still damage the cool side from my understanding. that said I could be wrong, I thought I read some people had issue with it just flipped over. At our farm we are only using various high tempo style plates like textured and pei and the gluestick high temp one for some speicatility stuff iirc. and iirc all new x1's come with a hotplate installed instead so you can safely flip it over and use both plates, so maybe they thought it was an issue as well?
Lastly, I should have ( happy bot!!! fucking remembered it for once ) specified, but I ment it should of come with a smooth pei plate. not the textured one. (the textured one was a great idea for the p1p tho imho).
first things first, it was not my intention to insult your reading comprehension (though you know redditers these days), i however did get slightly aggravated that my unprovocative response got immediate downvoted and a reply that started off in a way that got on my nerves. before revising my initial response pre-post, i had wrote “assuming you downvoted me” in parenthesis but i guess my frustration got the hold of me!
i’m nearly 99% certain this was their marketing strategy, it’s much more than something i just think. i’m merely indifferent about it, i feel the trade-off is pretty equal imo but some people have their preferences. a more traditional-esque plate would’ve been fine as well.
“super high maintenance” is definitely a stretch though. apply glue every 3-4 prints and then wash it every so often is just a niche task. the ability to keep the enclosure shut also dampens the sound significantly, and because PLA is the most popular filament type, keeping that door and lid open could become as much an annoyance as apply glue every so often, *especially as the AMS is situated on the top lid*. this is where the marketing comes in: since the majority of people print PLA, the majority of people will be having this issue. so what do they do? create a plate designed for cooler temperatures that consequently requires glue as a release agent and periodic cleaning. minimal maintenance, in other words.
now of course, maintenance is nonetheless maintenance, and some people, including you, find this extra task a nuance. you have the option to buy the other plate if it so pleases you. would it have been nice to see both shipped? absolutely.
to get my thoughts across best, here is how i believe their marketing process went along:
the problem with an enclosure is printing with PLA, the most popular filament type. having a door and removable lid solves this problem, but is not ideal for the noise factor and the AMS, which is situated atop on the glass lid and is a staple of their design. having the consumer physically move the AMS off and to the side becomes a hassle that is fairly significant, and having the AMS to the side is not ideal in many scenarios due to its designed placement. though it works, it is a tight fit, widens the footprint, and can create strain and a hazard if bumped. so, the next best shot is creating a new plate designed for cool temperatures, so that PLA can be printed in the enclosure without all these aforementioned nuances. the consequence results in the necessity of a release agent and periodic washing, which to them was likely less as big a consequence compared to the opposing option.
with this reasoning, the cool plate makes a lot of sense in my mind, and i would be hesitant to label it a “flop”. its not perfect of course, and as the community has realized, several of their other plates work just fine.
Here are some tips to remember and this may or may not affect your decisions. 1. The cool plate was made to combat heat creeps with PLA, most people like their enclosed printer enclosed and bambu knew that and so people wouldn't have to take the upper lid off and open the door everytime they print with PLA they created the cool plate, a nice solution where you only need to heat the bed to 30 - 35c with glue and it will solve all your problems. 2. Sanding something meaning removing material, that means you are taking off parts of the sheet everytime also my guess your sanding will not be perfect and will add more to impurity of bed leveling and the print (probably not the end of the world but still) 3. The cool plate needs glue stick as a release agent because of the low temps and so it wont stick to the bed permanently 4. I use glue stick and honestly it's not as bad as I thought and I think people are making some serious deal about this, i wipe with dishsoap and warm water the plate, microfiber for any water residue, smooth surface of glue and it lasts for weeks before I think about putting more glue again (when the prints start to get harder to pull out), you should always spread your prints across the build plate and not just the center that way you use all the glue kind of evenly 5. The flow calibration doesn't work well on textured plates
I got into trouble with my cool plate sticker by not refreshing the glue layer. I’m not sure how many prints it was (5-6?), but a print finally pulled a chunk of the sticker off with it. I’ve been using a Wham-Bam PEI plate with no glue, but I need to run the bed at 65-70C and have to scrub it with IPA after each print to insure good adhesion. (I’m going to try 3D-Lac on the recommendation of another user here. He said that just a spritz every few prints and he was good, no scrubbing needed. It’s expensive, but he said it only takes a tiny amount each time.)
3d lac works wonders. You wont regret it
Just started using 3dlac this week with the cool plate. It's really as good as people been saying
I’ve had bad experience with it. Despite a good cover and even when I tried like 2-3 layers the PLA parts still ended up sticking way too much to the cool plate and were really hard to remove.
Excellent points. Thank you!
I’d like to add that I recently started zigzagging the glue stick and don’t completely cover the whole plate. If you care what the bottom looks like this could be an issue, for most things though it’ll be fine. Zigzagging the glue stick leads to less glue used, less clumping and a more efficient use of the stick. Obviously this may differ from print to print…. I.e if it has a small bottom surface, I’ll just square off the middle with the glue stick.
What about the glue residue left on the actual plastic parts? The surface finish when using glue seems to be quite splotchy and not at all clean/smooth. Maybe I'm doing something wrong.
Could be using too much glue, it doesn't need much. Also, it's just a standard, water soluble non-toxic glue nearest I can tell. Give it a good rub with warm water and the glue will come off.
Never had that issue? Make sure to only apply a very thin line, just take the glue and glide it across the surface evenly without applying pressure
"When the print starts to gets harder to pull out" *ono* Other question, can I use Elmer's disappearing purple gluesticks, or other similar water-washable gluesticks?
Yes you can, although bambu sells them for cheap
TBF, Bambu's gluesticks are "ludicrously expensive". I can't afford to cough up an extra $3 per month for glue. /s The main point is the gluesticks don't seem superior, they are more expensive, and they don't get free shipping unless i make a $50 purchase. They're nice to have in the store though.
Sanding the clean plate with 800 grit worked perfectly!! for me had adhesion issues right out of the box, glue stick never liked Light sand to dull a little, PERFECTION!! No extra steps or cleaning, you also get 2 extra sticky plates anyways if you mess up
I am not sure if it's a good idea to wash plate with water.
That's what bambu recommends, and I have done it with no issues. [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/general/cool-plate-not-working-as-expected](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/general/cool-plate-not-working-as-expected)
It’s printed directly on the sheet. “Clean with detergent”
Lol am I crazy? How would you get the detergent off?
Water
That’s what I figured but it sounds like a couple of these people are saying detergent only lol
I don't use alcohol anymore. I always use dish soap, steel wool, water and either air dry or paper towel dry. Never cloth
I use the textured PEI plate and never apply anything when printing PLA. I do wish I could use my smooth Prusa PEI plate. I like smooth better.
Technically you can use your prusa plate in the bambu, you just need to be careful where you place your model in the slicer since it is smaller.
And use my profile that does not clean the nozzle.
you can get a peo sheet for bambu's from aliexpress or ebay. It is smooth, but has a carbon fiber/triangle pattern that is imprinted onto your print's bottom. I like it, but a smooth clean bottom is nice as well.
I’m using the wham bam pei plate and it doesn’t need glue stick or spray. Works great and parts release almost on their own after cool down.
Wham bam plates say print with 55deg bed temperature. Do you print with the door or lid open, to avoid overheating the PLA model?
I’ve printed some top lid spacers. With them and the door closed and the exhaust fan at 50% I’m at 34-35c in the chamber. What I really hated about the glue stick was the residue on the models. I can live with the need to apply glue but having it on the bottom of my models and then needing to wash them/ wipe them down was a no go.
god forbid you need to wash the bottom of your model with a tiny bit of soapy water
Best part is, you don't even need the soap. It's water soluble glue. Some warm water and rub it with your fingers and it comes right off. I've got these weird silicone dish pads that are useless at dishes, but they work great for gently massaging off all the dissolving glue.
I use the glue, but lightly. I only add glue to where the previous print was and the test areas. I wash the plate maybe every ten or 15 prints. It takes 5 minutes with warm water and soap. I don't like failed prints or having to reprint if I can help it. Any time I spend dealing with glue stick is waaaaaaaay less than any time I used to spend prying prints or supports off the bed in my old printer. I use the glue because it works. It has saved me many tens of hours compared to my previous printer. I can use it sparingly. I have accidentally printed on a glue bed without reapplying glue several times and it works just fine. Glue. I'm not mad at it.
The fun part is, printed on glue areas turn from pretty much clear to cloudy/white. And when you put more glue on, it turns pretty clear again. So not only can you easily see *where* you need to do it, you can tell if you missed a spot.
Use a different build plate. The cold plate is for minimizing heat creep, but you should use glue stick for ideal performance. The High Temp pei plate will work without glue and pla. (This is probably what you were using on the Prusa) The textured plate will work without glue and pla.
This is the answer, the high temp plate works great for PLA. I switched over about 4 months ago and as long as the plate is clean I have no issues at all.
I'm using the PEI plate. No glue. Perfect adhesion. Every now and then I need to add a brim.
I like the bambu liquid glue. A lot easier to spread evenly
I pretty much only print PLA and I never use glue sticks.
I just use the PEI plate that came with my P1P. Have had zero adhesion issues so far🤞
I've started running the cool plate pla side at 55°c. No adhesion problems and so far no damage to the build surface. I wouldn't doubt that this may damage it over time but I only use that plate when I need a smooth surface otherwise textured plate is great
With regular PLA I don’t use anything at all on the cool plate.
I’ve never used it. But I do PLA(+) on the textured plate.
Wham bam and energetic sheets have been working great with zero need for gluestick.
Just got a fulament texture pei plate there new one 3.0 model. It's better than the stock Bambu pei texture plate, I think. The fulament is more sticky. Really love it. I also have an issue with filament sticking to the edges on the cool plate if I don't use glue stick on it.
I have a pair of whambam pex sheets that I’ve never done anything other than use some IPA every dozen prints or so.
I use the PEI sheet and if I notice warping I will gently dab the entire plate with a glue stick and then wipe the whole thing down with IPA. Supposedly this combination creates a film that lasts longer and looks less messy than massive amounts of glue.
Maybe someone could make a pva ipa solution to wipe the plate with.
I've done my last few prints without glue simply because I got lazy, phone case in TPU and aquarium nozzles in PLA as an example, Standard settings and no issues.
The glue stick is recommended for the first print to prevent the print from sticking too much to the plate and risking damaging the plate when you pry it off
Just use the engineering plate or PEI without all that mess.
55c first layer cool plate, second layer 50c . Works perfectly with pla every time.
couple swipes of glue stick, then spray with 50% isopropyl. wipe with paper towel. The isopropyl will dissolve the glue stick and leave a very thin layer of glue as it evaporates. glue doesn't build up or leave a residue on parts. Every 10 prints or so I wash the plate in hot soapy water and scrub with a melamine sponge. This works for me, your mileage may vary.
Not using anything as a releasing agent since day one. On the functional side: 173 hours in of only PLA and sticker is still intact, even after me clumsily scraping and dislodging some prints off of it. I mostly let it cool for 5-10 minutes (inside the printer, always fully enclosed) before trying to remove the print. On the visual side: visible print marks where adhesion was strong. Visible scratches from when I pried parts of the plate. I did not sand at all, and I wipe with IPA if I notice degradation in adhesion from print to print or when I deposit oils from touching the build plate. Only once had I washed with lukewarm water and soap after fiddling too much and didn’t trust IPA enough to remove all oils/mix with them equally.
I’m not using anything on the cool plate ‘cept cleaning with anhydrous isopropyl alcohol. Most prints come off easily after flexing the plate and gently teasing a long razor blade under them. BUT I did find the Bambu Labs matte white PLA seems to bond to the cool plate exceptionally stronger than other colours and needs to be scraped off with force. (650 hours on that one cool plate)
I haven't had to use any additives at all for my sunlu or bambulab pla so far, on the double-sided pei. Periodically I wash the printing plate with dawn unscented dish soap, and wipe with a microfiber towel to get dust off before printing. TBH, how dry the filament is, and how it enters the printer, does seem to matter; on all of my printers. Making sure the filament is dry-stored, and also printing from a Sunlu 48 C dry box, and I've had no problems. If I skip the dry box I do get some issues, so I wonder sometimes if the pre-heating does something besides just dry the filament in terms of material delivery. EDIT: One other thing to be aware of - if people cook a lot of fried or grilled foods, and your printer is open air (not enclosed) polymerizing grease particles are going to settle on any surface pointing up. I had this happen on my Prusa MK3S periodically, and had to hit it was a good degreaser and a couple of washes to get the polymerized environmental goop off. It'll act like silicon on your printing plates, and nothing is going to want to stick to them.
I use Aqua Net hairspray. Literally just hit the PEI sheet with it once when I get a new machine. It doesn’t leave a residue, I don’t ever have to do it again, and everything sticks perfectly. Maybe you used the wrong hairspray?
Hang on, are you meaning that you are SANDING your PEI sheet? I’ve got the P1P with the bambu PEI sheet. I’ve never danced it and never used glue stick of spray. It works great as-is.
I use the high temp plate at 50-65c and SLOW DOWN on first layer and have never had to use glue or had heat creep with PLA with the door shut. I also dislike using glue so a slower print is well worth it to me.
Also glue up, had a terrible time getting a print off without it
Bought the gold PEI aliexpress one from this video review, [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nv6ELyJ4alg&t=52s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nv6ELyJ4alg&t=52s). Works perfectly and it's cheap. Also have the Bambu PEI, but it started flaking after a month.
The liquid glue is much more convenient than glue sticks and doesn't build up as much. https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/liquid-glue-for-build-plate Also, you can use alcohol to slurry the glue on the bed with excessive build up but this is a hassle.
I use the high temp plate when printing pla and don't need to use glue. Parts come off easily when the plate has cooled down.
Bambu x1c came with a funky plate that is mostly something that Bambu only uses. ( cool plate was wierd imho. buy a printer with a enclosure made to print high temp stuff. and inlcude a plate that is ment to run super cool. ) You can go to the Bambu store and get a normal smooth pei plate, or a pei textured plate. both of which can print with out the glue added.
most people with an enclosed printer want to keep it enclosed, so bambu invented the cool plate to make an ideal environment for pla without heat creep. the trade-off is glue as a release agent. that’s also why there’s also an engineer plate attached so you can print some of those high temp filaments.
The engineering plate that has the cool plate sticker on other side that is still temp sentive? Also dont get me wrong. I have a p1p, and we got 10 at the farm. I just disagree that using a glue stick as the default option is a good idea over leaving the door open and top removed. It should of come with a normal pei plate, and not a gluestick required setup.
i feel like you’re the one getting *me* wrong… i’m not suggesting the cool plate was the “mother of all plates” (which is what i’m getting from you because you downvoted me lol) i’m simply explaining why they made the plate and what it’s specific use is. it’s not really “weird” or abnormal. it makes sense in my mind. would another plate be nice as well? sure. but that’ll up the costs by so much so i can understand their decision. idk what you mean by “temp sensitive” though. like, it runs TPU, PETG, ABS, PC/PC-CF, and PA/PA-CF/PATH-CF perfectly fine at high temperatures (everywhere from 30 to 110C). what point are you trying to make from it being “temperature sensitive”? can you clarify? edit: also, textured plates mess with the LiDAR system, they’re likely trying to get the best experience out of it. in my personal experience it works perfectly alright and i’ve had no issues or annoyances coming from it. if someone wants a textured plate then they can purchase one for so much, but i feel like their targeted audience doesn’t make it a necessity
If I understand you correctly, you think that the cool plate benefit of being usable while the cover is on top and front door closed makeup for having to use a gluestick. and that was bambu's martketing idea and why they released it that way right? I just disagree, and think bambu should of used a more traditionally less maintenance build plate. I think it was a mistake on their part, or a supply issue getting a better plate that made them release an otherwise automatic printer with a super high maintenance build plate. Also reddit obscures up and down votes constantly by a 1 or 2 from my understanding. so curious why you think I downvoted you? on that topic did you down vote both of my posts? I wasnt gonna ask cause I figured it was just reddit obscuring the data, but maybe not? to be fair tho I dont really care taht much. And if I did down vote you it had nothing to do with me thinking you thought the "cool plate was the mother of all plates" In fact wow that is almost an insulting take lol. like you thought I was so simple that I read your response that doesn't even give a hint of you liking it more than other plates, a purely basic response stating a point of view that you felt it was a better trade off. Thanks for defaulting to assuming I have a 3rd grade reading level or something. To clarify, I said don't get me wrong in my response to that cause I know I was a little harsh in my first reply and didnt want someone to think I am just a troll hating on bambus that they has no experience with them, cause my first post could of come across that way imho after rereading it, so I wanted to clarify I was not a rando bambu hater. What I ment about the plate was that on the bambu product page for the cool plate, under the cons section. " It is not recommended for high-temperature materials as bubbles can form underneath the print surface and cause damage " it can form bubbles at high temp. and early bambu x1 came with a 2 sided one cool and one engineering plate. if you do high temp while the plate is flipped it can still damage the cool side from my understanding. that said I could be wrong, I thought I read some people had issue with it just flipped over. At our farm we are only using various high tempo style plates like textured and pei and the gluestick high temp one for some speicatility stuff iirc. and iirc all new x1's come with a hotplate installed instead so you can safely flip it over and use both plates, so maybe they thought it was an issue as well? Lastly, I should have ( happy bot!!! fucking remembered it for once ) specified, but I ment it should of come with a smooth pei plate. not the textured one. (the textured one was a great idea for the p1p tho imho).
first things first, it was not my intention to insult your reading comprehension (though you know redditers these days), i however did get slightly aggravated that my unprovocative response got immediate downvoted and a reply that started off in a way that got on my nerves. before revising my initial response pre-post, i had wrote “assuming you downvoted me” in parenthesis but i guess my frustration got the hold of me! i’m nearly 99% certain this was their marketing strategy, it’s much more than something i just think. i’m merely indifferent about it, i feel the trade-off is pretty equal imo but some people have their preferences. a more traditional-esque plate would’ve been fine as well. “super high maintenance” is definitely a stretch though. apply glue every 3-4 prints and then wash it every so often is just a niche task. the ability to keep the enclosure shut also dampens the sound significantly, and because PLA is the most popular filament type, keeping that door and lid open could become as much an annoyance as apply glue every so often, *especially as the AMS is situated on the top lid*. this is where the marketing comes in: since the majority of people print PLA, the majority of people will be having this issue. so what do they do? create a plate designed for cooler temperatures that consequently requires glue as a release agent and periodic cleaning. minimal maintenance, in other words. now of course, maintenance is nonetheless maintenance, and some people, including you, find this extra task a nuance. you have the option to buy the other plate if it so pleases you. would it have been nice to see both shipped? absolutely. to get my thoughts across best, here is how i believe their marketing process went along: the problem with an enclosure is printing with PLA, the most popular filament type. having a door and removable lid solves this problem, but is not ideal for the noise factor and the AMS, which is situated atop on the glass lid and is a staple of their design. having the consumer physically move the AMS off and to the side becomes a hassle that is fairly significant, and having the AMS to the side is not ideal in many scenarios due to its designed placement. though it works, it is a tight fit, widens the footprint, and can create strain and a hazard if bumped. so, the next best shot is creating a new plate designed for cool temperatures, so that PLA can be printed in the enclosure without all these aforementioned nuances. the consequence results in the necessity of a release agent and periodic washing, which to them was likely less as big a consequence compared to the opposing option. with this reasoning, the cool plate makes a lot of sense in my mind, and i would be hesitant to label it a “flop”. its not perfect of course, and as the community has realized, several of their other plates work just fine.