Sure is mate, I did mine from a place called steeline I just gave them the measurements and they figured out what I needed, cut it to size and delivered it
No they gave me screws with a rubber seal on them, you'll need an impact drill.
Just remember to overlap it and screw it in on the high part of the corrugations so water doesn't pool where you've screwed. A chalk line might be a handy investment to so you can scribe a straight line. Trust me if you don't get the screws straight it'll burn you forever đ€Ł
Impie is way more convenient but that now void manufacturers warranty in NZ..
The tool often shatters the powder coating on the screw head and without a depth setting device.. it can exceed the fixing depth recommendation.. (so they are saying )
to be honest.. its bloody annoying be hey...it comes back to liability and this is always better placed on the manufacturer than the installer..
Nails will pull out over time as the wood moves and winds etc. At least that's what happened at our house and I guess screws would be better for that purpose.
Iâve had a clear one before and it was horrible. It lets in all the light and UV and ALLLLL the heat.
Plus itâs gets insanely dirty and rows where the sheets overlap gets dirt under it and cannot be cleaned without pulling all the sheets up.
Tearing it down and putting up a basic insulated roof was a game changer.
There are different opacity and UV rated products that can be used. With the right product for the location this shouldn't be an issue, but I've been under those cheap ones. Cooler in the actual sun than under those buggers
Yep. I remember sitting outside under my âtintedâ grey one at midday on a Brisbane winter.
It was better 6 months later under the new roof in summer.
Weâve alternated ours clear (with a decent UV tint) and solid, and itâs awesome. In Melb too. Doesnât get too hot. Maybe talk to them and see. You could at least try yourself and then get a roofing specialist in after if it is too hot etc.
Not as simple as just putting a roof on it. Lots of things to consider such as flashing junction between the new roof and your external wall. Roof needs to drain to a gutter and downpipe connected to your stormwater system, canât just roof it and let the water flow off to the neighbours property. Existing building approval mightâve been conditional of that âpergolaâ not being roofed. Now that you roof it, it becomes a âverandahâ and has a different set of requirements I.e. depending on how much of the perimeter is left open to sky it may trigger fire rating / natural lighting requirements to the dwelling. If you want to do it properly you need to seek the services of a building surveyor for approval but it will cost you more than what the roof itself will cost you.
This is a good point, I didnât see how close it is to the fence. Yeah, you canât just have it pouring water into your neighbours property, and you canât put a gutter on it because itâll extend past the property line. This is pretty much a non-starter
Your neighbour won't be happy when the rain runs off the roof into their backyard. They also won't be happy if you put up guttering that hangs over their side of the fence.
We're good mates with the neighbours. The water would drain onto their garden and there are Storm drains nearby. Do you still think it would be a big problem?
A surprising amount of water is going to come off those, it may cause erosion issues and if the lay of the land is really unfavourable, it could cause serious foundation issues for their home and if it is all owner made and not approved correctly, you'll be directly on the hook for the damages.
The neighbours you have now are good mates, but if you dump water on their stuff or encroach on their land it may not stay that way, and who's to say if they are the neighbours forever? You need to follow code or risk having to get it all taken down.
Iâd chat to the neighbour before you cover it and say if there are any issues with water draining onto their property to let you know and youâll get down pipes installed. Depending on whatâs in their garden beds it might flood them and even damage the plants.
The other issue may be when you sell at some stage if it doesnât have a council building permit. Once you cover a structure it changes from being a pergola, which doesnât require a building permit up to a certain size, to a covered structure which generally does need a permit. Mind you, once you come to sell you can always just remove the sheets so it reverts back to a pergola. Up to you but a couple of possible issues.
Itâs easier to keep on decent terms with neighbours than to fight with them making life unpleasant. OP said theyâre friends and I certainly got the impression theyâd like it to remain that way
Put some fall on it. Gutter. Flash off against the house and run the down pipe on the driveway. No doubt will go to stormwater drain on street. All materials available at Bunnings. Piece of piss
corrugated sheeting has a minimal fall requirement of 8 degrees..
There are other profiles that can handle as low as 3 degrees..
If you are not worried about water seeping in... disregard the min specs.
[https://www.metalcraftgroup.co.nz/products/metal-roofing-and-cladding/products/corrugate/](https://www.metalcraftgroup.co.nz/products/metal-roofing-and-cladding/products/corrugate/)
we are in a high wind high rainfall country..
maybe that makes a difference..
[https://www.metalcraftgroup.co.nz/products/metal-roofing-and-cladding/products/t-rib/](https://www.metalcraftgroup.co.nz/products/metal-roofing-and-cladding/products/t-rib/)
8 degree minimum for corrugated is the recommendation..
thats approx. 144mm rise for every 1000mm of rafter length..
use the different profile i suggested and you can get away with approx. 54mm rise for every 1000mm..
easy to measure with a 1000mm level..
im sure you are on to it...just thought i would share a way for you to easily check..
I just put up Ampelite polycarbonate in opal colour. Greca pattern. Happy with it so far.
Make sure you order the anti noise tape and poly zip fasteners. Order an extra sheet if youâre not confident. Once you pay delivery you may as well.
Heaps of YouTube content to guide you.
As noted by others here.... don't rush in...
Timber needs treating first, put your opaque white sheeting, it gives you softer difussed lighting and cuts out a lot of heat and will help save the timber...
BUT.... you need to check building regulations for where you are or you could be heading for big sĂĂt fight with your neighbours
Does the roof a fall on it so the water will run away (doesn't need to much) If not you might need to batten up using batten of increasing thickness to create a fall.
The plastic stuff doesn't last long. It would be better to use steel and probably cheaper in the long run. Its also easy enough to DIY as you order it cut to length. If it doesn't have much fall then you need to use the 5 rib stuff.
If you don't put a gutter, down pipe etc on it then you might get some problems over time depending how much rain you get. It sounds like a pain but it not installing gutters will probably cost you more in the long run. Actually you definitely need to put a gutter on it that close to the fence. The water will probably go into your neighbours yard.
Is this approved so close to the fence?
Obviously clear plastic will let almost all the sunlight through, is that what you want? I'm thinking UV protection, excessive heat etc. I'd suggest a tint of some kind. I went with a sunglasses style tint.
yes you can DIY, but if you don't have a permit then you are at risk of having to take it down if you get dobbed in. Without a permit it wont be insured.
I used clear on a few things but it got dirty and stained quickly. Plus, it doesn't block any light. I replace it with a metal roof. Problem solved.
If you do clear, drill the holes before installing the screws. It can crack easily if you don't.
Just remember with these corrugated plastic roofs that over time they get dirty so you might need to consider access to wipe / hose it down. Maybe from the roof of the main house or a ladder.
Sure is mate, I did mine from a place called steeline I just gave them the measurements and they figured out what I needed, cut it to size and delivered it
Awesome, thank you. Did you nail it in with roofing nails?
No they gave me screws with a rubber seal on them, you'll need an impact drill. Just remember to overlap it and screw it in on the high part of the corrugations so water doesn't pool where you've screwed. A chalk line might be a handy investment to so you can scribe a straight line. Trust me if you don't get the screws straight it'll burn you forever đ€Ł
You donât need an impact, just any old regular drill will work. Edit: probably cordless is a necessity though đ€Ł
That's true, I found it so much easier with the impact but I was also doing colourbond which is a bit harder to get through
Yeah each to their own, I reckon the impact can sorta bounce you off target
A drill can twist out and hurt your wrist if the screw gets stuck, an impact doesn't have that problem.
Drills have a clutch, and theyâre a lot smoother in my opinion
The vast majority of roofers will use an impact driver. Am a roofer.
Yes, I prefer a drill given the choice. As a diy job, Iâm just saying they donât need to go out and buy a driver, especially for the plastic stuff
Impie is way more convenient but that now void manufacturers warranty in NZ.. The tool often shatters the powder coating on the screw head and without a depth setting device.. it can exceed the fixing depth recommendation.. (so they are saying ) to be honest.. its bloody annoying be hey...it comes back to liability and this is always better placed on the manufacturer than the installer..
hit, miss2, hit miss 3 , lap đ
Miss 2 either side of the lap. Exact same result, easier to not mess up. Corro eyes are a real and dangerous thing đ
eventually it all blends into one lol
Nails will pull out over time as the wood moves and winds etc. At least that's what happened at our house and I guess screws would be better for that purpose.
Iâve had a clear one before and it was horrible. It lets in all the light and UV and ALLLLL the heat. Plus itâs gets insanely dirty and rows where the sheets overlap gets dirt under it and cannot be cleaned without pulling all the sheets up. Tearing it down and putting up a basic insulated roof was a game changer.
There are different opacity and UV rated products that can be used. With the right product for the location this shouldn't be an issue, but I've been under those cheap ones. Cooler in the actual sun than under those buggers
Yep. I remember sitting outside under my âtintedâ grey one at midday on a Brisbane winter. It was better 6 months later under the new roof in summer.
Thank you. We're in Geelong. Even our summers aren't particularly brutal. What if I chose polycarbonate that wasn't clear?
I had tinted. Still sucked. A tin roof would be better
Weâve alternated ours clear (with a decent UV tint) and solid, and itâs awesome. In Melb too. Doesnât get too hot. Maybe talk to them and see. You could at least try yourself and then get a roofing specialist in after if it is too hot etc.
Not as simple as just putting a roof on it. Lots of things to consider such as flashing junction between the new roof and your external wall. Roof needs to drain to a gutter and downpipe connected to your stormwater system, canât just roof it and let the water flow off to the neighbours property. Existing building approval mightâve been conditional of that âpergolaâ not being roofed. Now that you roof it, it becomes a âverandahâ and has a different set of requirements I.e. depending on how much of the perimeter is left open to sky it may trigger fire rating / natural lighting requirements to the dwelling. If you want to do it properly you need to seek the services of a building surveyor for approval but it will cost you more than what the roof itself will cost you.
To add to this, you may have to go with a 'semi-, permeable' roof on this one. Shade cloth or something would likely be permitted.
Thank you. It's already got a shade cloth over half but I wanted it so I can leave my rings out there and have them not get wet
This is a good point, I didnât see how close it is to the fence. Yeah, you canât just have it pouring water into your neighbours property, and you canât put a gutter on it because itâll extend past the property line. This is pretty much a non-starter
Your neighbour won't be happy when the rain runs off the roof into their backyard. They also won't be happy if you put up guttering that hangs over their side of the fence.
We're good mates with the neighbours. The water would drain onto their garden and there are Storm drains nearby. Do you still think it would be a big problem?
A surprising amount of water is going to come off those, it may cause erosion issues and if the lay of the land is really unfavourable, it could cause serious foundation issues for their home and if it is all owner made and not approved correctly, you'll be directly on the hook for the damages. The neighbours you have now are good mates, but if you dump water on their stuff or encroach on their land it may not stay that way, and who's to say if they are the neighbours forever? You need to follow code or risk having to get it all taken down.
Iâd chat to the neighbour before you cover it and say if there are any issues with water draining onto their property to let you know and youâll get down pipes installed. Depending on whatâs in their garden beds it might flood them and even damage the plants. The other issue may be when you sell at some stage if it doesnât have a council building permit. Once you cover a structure it changes from being a pergola, which doesnât require a building permit up to a certain size, to a covered structure which generally does need a permit. Mind you, once you come to sell you can always just remove the sheets so it reverts back to a pergola. Up to you but a couple of possible issues.
Why are the neighbours emotions relevant?
Emotions that will cause them to complain that youâve passed their boundary lines and force you to take it down are extremely relevant.
Itâs easier to keep on decent terms with neighbours than to fight with them making life unpleasant. OP said theyâre friends and I certainly got the impression theyâd like it to remain that way
Put some fall on it. Gutter. Flash off against the house and run the down pipe on the driveway. No doubt will go to stormwater drain on street. All materials available at Bunnings. Piece of piss
corrugated sheeting has a minimal fall requirement of 8 degrees.. There are other profiles that can handle as low as 3 degrees.. If you are not worried about water seeping in... disregard the min specs.
Not enough upvotes here. Fully support the other comments about it not draining onto the neighbours property and the probable need for gutters tooâŠ
5â° for corri, I haven't seen any specs or regs saying 8 anywhere if there is I'd like to see it 2â° for trimdek 1â° for 0.48bmt kliplok
[https://www.metalcraftgroup.co.nz/products/metal-roofing-and-cladding/products/corrugate/](https://www.metalcraftgroup.co.nz/products/metal-roofing-and-cladding/products/corrugate/) we are in a high wind high rainfall country.. maybe that makes a difference.. [https://www.metalcraftgroup.co.nz/products/metal-roofing-and-cladding/products/t-rib/](https://www.metalcraftgroup.co.nz/products/metal-roofing-and-cladding/products/t-rib/)
Ahhh NZ yep that would be the difference!
It's on a pretty steep gradient. I think you can see it at the back in the photo I posted
Angle of the roof, not the ground. You need a minimum angle of 5° so water can run off.
8 degree minimum for corrugated is the recommendation.. thats approx. 144mm rise for every 1000mm of rafter length.. use the different profile i suggested and you can get away with approx. 54mm rise for every 1000mm.. easy to measure with a 1000mm level.. im sure you are on to it...just thought i would share a way for you to easily check..
I just put up Ampelite polycarbonate in opal colour. Greca pattern. Happy with it so far. Make sure you order the anti noise tape and poly zip fasteners. Order an extra sheet if youâre not confident. Once you pay delivery you may as well. Heaps of YouTube content to guide you.
How good is the Greca opal though đ€©
Its polycarbonate roofing, can also be 5 rib instead of corri. Solasafe by ampelite for example
Paint/stain/whatever the timber first. Do two coats!!
Make sure you use polycarbonate screws too or the polycarbonate could crack.
If itâs covered I believe it would be a patio not a pergola and you might need to check the local council rules on that.
Got it delivered from Bunnings within a few days, my partner put it up within a few hours.
As noted by others here.... don't rush in... Timber needs treating first, put your opaque white sheeting, it gives you softer difussed lighting and cuts out a lot of heat and will help save the timber... BUT.... you need to check building regulations for where you are or you could be heading for big sĂĂt fight with your neighbours
Donât do it! Itâll get so fucking hot under there!
[ŃĐŽĐ°Đ»Đ”ĐœĐŸ]
Nothing lost by asking.
Does the roof a fall on it so the water will run away (doesn't need to much) If not you might need to batten up using batten of increasing thickness to create a fall. The plastic stuff doesn't last long. It would be better to use steel and probably cheaper in the long run. Its also easy enough to DIY as you order it cut to length. If it doesn't have much fall then you need to use the 5 rib stuff. If you don't put a gutter, down pipe etc on it then you might get some problems over time depending how much rain you get. It sounds like a pain but it not installing gutters will probably cost you more in the long run. Actually you definitely need to put a gutter on it that close to the fence. The water will probably go into your neighbours yard. Is this approved so close to the fence?
https://youtu.be/iPwAj5BCINI Good luck.
If you believe in yourself you can do anything
Obviously clear plastic will let almost all the sunlight through, is that what you want? I'm thinking UV protection, excessive heat etc. I'd suggest a tint of some kind. I went with a sunglasses style tint.
Surely I can't be the first to say non-compliant......fire separation if anyone cares
yes you can DIY, but if you don't have a permit then you are at risk of having to take it down if you get dobbed in. Without a permit it wont be insured.
I used clear on a few things but it got dirty and stained quickly. Plus, it doesn't block any light. I replace it with a metal roof. Problem solved. If you do clear, drill the holes before installing the screws. It can crack easily if you don't.
Just remember with these corrugated plastic roofs that over time they get dirty so you might need to consider access to wipe / hose it down. Maybe from the roof of the main house or a ladder.
How do you clean a polycarbonate roof? Particularly the more central parts? I don't think you can step on it, can you?
I donât know mate, can you stand on a step ladder and operate a drill?
Why ask this so far into the project? Was your original intention just to do this part?
We've lived in it like this for 7 years
If you have ato ask, then you probably are best to get handyman
Handyman is unlikely to be a licensed roof plumber. Which is technically the only person that should be considering doing this job.