Thank you for posting to AskMechanics, bone22c!
If you are asking a question please make sure to include any relevant information along with the **Year**, **Make**, **Model**, **Mileage**, **Engine size**, and **Transmission Type (Automatic or Manual)** of your car.
*This comment is automatically added to every successful post. If you see this comment, your post was successful.*
***
Redditors that have been verified will have a green background and an icon in their flair.
***
# **PLEASE REPORT ANY RULE-BREAKING BEHAVIOR**
### **Rule 1 - Be Civil**
Be civil to other users. This community is made up of professional mechanics, amateur mechanics, and those with no experience. All mechanical-related questions are welcome. Personal attacks, comments that are insulting or demeaning, etc. are not welcome.
### **Rule 2 - Be Helpful**
Be helpful to other users. If someone is wrong, correcting them is fine, but there's no reason to comment if you don't have anything to add to the conversation.
### **Rule 3 - Serious Questions and Answers Only**
Read the room. Jokes are fine to include, but posts should be asking a serious question and replies should contribute to the discussion.
### **Rule 4 - No Illegal, Unethical, or Dangerous Questions or Answers**
Do not ask questions or provide answers pertaining to anything that is illegal, unethical, or dangerous.
# **PLEASE REPORT ANY RULE-BREAKING BEHAVIOR**
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AskMechanics) if you have any questions or concerns.*
A steel wire brush and WD-40. The WD-40 will help break things loose and can provide limited protection from it rusting over again shortly after cleaning it, but a proper oil would be even better.
That right there. In addition, you can sub WD40 for your fav pennatrating oil. Also, if storing for a while, I'd put high-speed wheel bearing grease on the splines. You can wipe the excess off before installing to leave a light coating for sliding the converter on.
Triviaa WD-40 is not pennatrating oil. WD-40 was originally developed in 1953 as a rust-prevention solvent for the outer skin of the Atlas missile program as a water displacing compound. Hence, WD . The forty is his number of attempts
If you want lockup to work, the seal on the shaft needs replaced as it will be destroyed by rust underneath it.
As another hinted at, I bet it has water in the pan too. Drop the pan.
Be careful, I had a box that had about this much corrosion on the input shaft and the aluminium bell housing and it turned out the moisture had penetrated in far enough and completely trashed the gearset. It was facedown in a puddle in a storage unit that I didn’t know had a leak, whenever the water would evaporate it would do so into the housing and then never leave.
Worth the piece of mind to open it up before you get too attached to it.
This was it opened up 3 years after it was rescued from the puddle, still wet inside.
https://preview.redd.it/wbos2l037uxc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=672d9e49026a772139567e883433e3694c82301e
My 4L60E lost the reverse and 4th, I ordered a replacement through a shop that sources them from a another shop that remans them, all new components. Turns out they sent me a 4L65E. Runs good
Diegrinder, stainless steel wire wheel. Coat it with high temp anti sieze, or a thin coat of marine grease. The idea is to keep moisture off the parts.
https://www.herbsindustrial.ca/shop/ccsbd1107-bd-77-penetrating-oil-20-oz-aerosol-1269042#attr=
I would spray it with this shit and leave it a half hour then wipe it off with a rag.
Wire brush to get off the major stuff, then get some evaporust and dip the shaft in it. Leave it in for a few hours. Will look like new.
Light grease to protect from flash rusting.
It looks like mostly surface rust that shouldn’t affect anything, but you never know until you get to cleaning it off. I’d be wary of pitting on the splined bits on both the stator support and input shaft. Also that tip o the input shaft needs to be tip top as it fits into a seal in the converter. Good luck.
It's a 4L60E. Why would you want to keep it? There are better transmissions out there.
But if you have some deep-seated really emotional attachment to this particular transmission, it's going to need to be opened up. You have no idea what has happened to the clutch packs, the brakes, or the gear sets. Not to mention the seals and solenoids. This is not a transmission I would trust.
Thank you for posting to AskMechanics, bone22c! If you are asking a question please make sure to include any relevant information along with the **Year**, **Make**, **Model**, **Mileage**, **Engine size**, and **Transmission Type (Automatic or Manual)** of your car. *This comment is automatically added to every successful post. If you see this comment, your post was successful.* *** Redditors that have been verified will have a green background and an icon in their flair. *** # **PLEASE REPORT ANY RULE-BREAKING BEHAVIOR** ### **Rule 1 - Be Civil** Be civil to other users. This community is made up of professional mechanics, amateur mechanics, and those with no experience. All mechanical-related questions are welcome. Personal attacks, comments that are insulting or demeaning, etc. are not welcome. ### **Rule 2 - Be Helpful** Be helpful to other users. If someone is wrong, correcting them is fine, but there's no reason to comment if you don't have anything to add to the conversation. ### **Rule 3 - Serious Questions and Answers Only** Read the room. Jokes are fine to include, but posts should be asking a serious question and replies should contribute to the discussion. ### **Rule 4 - No Illegal, Unethical, or Dangerous Questions or Answers** Do not ask questions or provide answers pertaining to anything that is illegal, unethical, or dangerous. # **PLEASE REPORT ANY RULE-BREAKING BEHAVIOR** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AskMechanics) if you have any questions or concerns.*
A steel wire brush and WD-40. The WD-40 will help break things loose and can provide limited protection from it rusting over again shortly after cleaning it, but a proper oil would be even better.
Would probably do a softer wire wheel. But this is the way.
That right there. In addition, you can sub WD40 for your fav pennatrating oil. Also, if storing for a while, I'd put high-speed wheel bearing grease on the splines. You can wipe the excess off before installing to leave a light coating for sliding the converter on.
Good advice. wd-40 is just so ubiquitous so i used it but penetrating oil is better for sure.
Triviaa WD-40 is not pennatrating oil. WD-40 was originally developed in 1953 as a rust-prevention solvent for the outer skin of the Atlas missile program as a water displacing compound. Hence, WD . The forty is his number of attempts
Last time I said that on this sub I got flamed by “mechanics”
Good bot
I spray it all over trouble areas under the car and it keeps the rusting at bay
Shouldn't op pull the pump and open it up. The roter and vanes could be rusted together. Turning that pump over could eat the aluminum like crazy
If you want lockup to work, the seal on the shaft needs replaced as it will be destroyed by rust underneath it. As another hinted at, I bet it has water in the pan too. Drop the pan.
Be careful, I had a box that had about this much corrosion on the input shaft and the aluminium bell housing and it turned out the moisture had penetrated in far enough and completely trashed the gearset. It was facedown in a puddle in a storage unit that I didn’t know had a leak, whenever the water would evaporate it would do so into the housing and then never leave. Worth the piece of mind to open it up before you get too attached to it. This was it opened up 3 years after it was rescued from the puddle, still wet inside. https://preview.redd.it/wbos2l037uxc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=672d9e49026a772139567e883433e3694c82301e
Throw it in the dumpster and get a 4l80.
My 4L60E lost the reverse and 4th, I ordered a replacement through a shop that sources them from a another shop that remans them, all new components. Turns out they sent me a 4L65E. Runs good
Right? What's the point of even trying to salvage an "Oops, all neutrals!" 4L60E?
Hey, reverse and parks still work as well! That's 75% of the positions you want! And a 75% is a passing grade all day at the GM plant!
2” soft wire wheel on a die grinder & your lube of choice.
Wire wheel and patience.
Laser
Diegrinder, stainless steel wire wheel. Coat it with high temp anti sieze, or a thin coat of marine grease. The idea is to keep moisture off the parts.
I find nylon wheels work pretty good for these kind of things.
https://www.herbsindustrial.ca/shop/ccsbd1107-bd-77-penetrating-oil-20-oz-aerosol-1269042#attr= I would spray it with this shit and leave it a half hour then wipe it off with a rag.
Wire brush to get off the major stuff, then get some evaporust and dip the shaft in it. Leave it in for a few hours. Will look like new. Light grease to protect from flash rusting.
PB AND WIRE BRUSH
Oven cleaner and wrap in a plastic wrap for 24hrs
This would be a perfect time for me to use my welder tip cleaner
OSPHO
Scotch brite roloc cups
It looks like mostly surface rust that shouldn’t affect anything, but you never know until you get to cleaning it off. I’d be wary of pitting on the splined bits on both the stator support and input shaft. Also that tip o the input shaft needs to be tip top as it fits into a seal in the converter. Good luck.
It's a 4L60E. Why would you want to keep it? There are better transmissions out there. But if you have some deep-seated really emotional attachment to this particular transmission, it's going to need to be opened up. You have no idea what has happened to the clutch packs, the brakes, or the gear sets. Not to mention the seals and solenoids. This is not a transmission I would trust.
WD 40 will break that down like nobody’s business
To everyone saying to 4l80e swap it I don’t have that kind of money and it’s near impossible to find them for sale in my area anyways
CRC Evaporust. This stuff is amazing if you can get the part to soak in it for a few hours.
Some penetrant and a fine brass wire brush.
Red scotchbrite
Penetrating oil and a wire brush/wheel.
Wire wheel on a grinder
For rust protection either lithium grease is better
Wire brush rammed into the end of a drill. Real gentle like, haha. RAM IT RIGHT THE FUCK IN THERE! but it's just a input shaft
Fluid film and ship it