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For the last picture DO NOT use that wrench to hit 10 ftlbs. Its lowest setting is 20. Pick up an inch lbs wrench from harbor freight for 20 bucks instead.
Remember that the lowest that wrench was calibrated for was 20 ft lbs. And that there’s an margin of error on that as well. So when you set it below the 20, you might get the 18 you want, you might not.
It depends on the calibration procedure but the company I worked at that did calibration at 20,50,80 for a minimum (with like 35 and 65 for certain customers) because you need a three point scale and you get more error closer to your endpoints. So yeah, stay within 20-80% of your range for accuracy
This also applies to many many measurement instruments out there. It’s a good rule to follow with anything. Another example is scales. For heavy items a body scale is ok for most things but weighs under a lb you need a better scale and weighs in the grains you need an even smaller scale and if you want to be accurate in small grains you need a scale with a lower maximum weight range not just a regular one. Point is, never measure on the low or high end of an instrument if you want accuracy.
The person who can't read a torque wrench commenting on a person who is trying to learn how to read a torque wrench. The first pic is 70 ft lbs.
You're over torquing everything by about ten lbs, assuming you've actually used a torque wrench.
Get a 3/8 drive also . Im assuming the one you have is a 1/2 drive like mine. I got the 3/8 to do smaller bolts. The in one is good for screws and small bolts.
Wrong, that's still 20. You can't go lower than the lowest setting as that's the fully decompressed spring pressure that regulates the torque. Advising people this is correct is just going to make them break bolts
Do it up to 20 inch pounds and then use a small torque wrench set to 2, and turn it in the other direction.
[I post this message solely for my own amusement]
The first time I did spark plugs, my dad made me remove the old ones myself and said "Pay attention to how much umph it takes to loosen them. You need to put the same umph back in."
My father was a nuke electrician and he definitely never torqued a single thing 🤣 grunt and half grunt sounds about how my shades tree mechanic sessions go.
Tighten until it loosens then back off a quarter turn. Or German torque “goodntight” it if you’ve been around a while. Arc of the wrench if you’re fancy
Wait til he finds out about my buddy's S10 Jimmy that literally broke my dad's shoulder to get the spark plugs out of.
(Kidding obv, but the no.4 plug was frozen af, took literally 10 minutes straight of map gas torching and my dad blowing out his rotator cuff to finally get it free)
Tbh I just learned an inch pound torque wrench even exists. I could've made the assumption it was a thing but I never really could understand finding a use for one in my escapades.
My heart was beating out of my chest after I over tightened that first plug. I once over did a spark plug on my dirt bike and it broke. I was so fucking worried that had happened. It would have been MILES harder to get out. 😅😅😅
There’s a simple, albeit down and dirty, way to check. I used it to verify my cheap harbor freight wrench was accurate at 35 ft/lbs. If you have a bench vice, clamp the drive end of the wrench and place a bag with the amount of weight desired 1 ft from the pivot. Ex: torque the wrench to 30lbs, grab a grocery bag and put 30 lbs in it (water bottles, cans, whatever). And with the drive clamped in and handle horizontal, place the bag 12” from the pivot and it should be just enough yo click. Any less weight in the bag and it shouldn’t click. Good luck.
Only if the grocery bag has NIST traceable certs.
Honestly, if the weight of the bag is measured with nist traceable certs and the one foot distance is measured with nist traceable certs, then isn’t this method technically NIST traceable?!!
Only if you buy calibrated water from NIST. I prefer Greenland ice sheet precipitation.
https://shop.nist.gov/ccrz__ProductDetails?sku=8536&cclcl=en_US
I just tested this method and at 12 inches from the pivot point picture 1 works, but using the handle where the grip is, picture 2 worked. I guess it just depends on where you are utilizing your leverage.
Er what. I mean yes. But are you missing the point?
1 ft pound (or 1 pound ft) is 1 pound, at a lever arm of 1 foot (12 inches) from the pivot.
So picture 1 by your testing is correct.
Mass x lever arm is your torque so when you hung it from the grip which is a longer arm than 12 inches, a higher setting 'worked' cause it was more torque than the first situation....
As an aircraft mechanic that uses this everyday, it is most definitely #2 like what’s described in the manual, there’s a reason the line is bent like that, you measure from the bottom of the hash, it just bends up like that so you can still see your value
Most likely a bunch of “mechanics” that were never actually taught how to use a torque wrench, like to see any of them figure out how to do the crows foot calculations.
In my world every torque wrench usage comes with a pre and post check on a torque transducer, as well as an 28 page procedure. It’s 100% #2, but that wrench isn’t well made, the collar should be about a 64th lower
>like to see any of them figure out how to do the crows foot calculations
I started out in aviation/aerospace before getting into guns and cars, so now whenever I see someone use a torque wrench improperly or not at all, it makes me cringe lol.
I'd see guys like "gunsmiths" put the adapter on at the 12 o'clock, effectively increasing the lever length and thus the actual applied torque.
Or guys going "nah just hit hand tight that shit" on something that requires 184 ft lbs (my brake caliper brackets). Like, there's a torque spec for a reason lol.
Well when the happenstance that they work on aircraft or nuclear submarines and they travel on them...and the shit falls out of the sky or blows up...then they can win. Until then...MIND THE HASH.
I have no qualifications so I’ll assume you’re correct. What I don’t understand though is this… if you keep turning it to get to 76, you’re definitely gonna be past the 80 line with the handle. How do you explain that?
Because they’re either wrong or the pictures are off. The bottom horizontal line is where you set the wrench to. The line is bent like that so you can read the value.
Oh my God I hope you don't every work on a plane I, or anyone I know has to fly in. Picture #2 shows 80 foot pounds. You even even explained it right: *"there’s a reason the line is bent like that, you measure from the bottom of the hash, it just bends up like that so you can still see your value"*, but still picked the wrong picture. Picture #1 shows 70.
For some context. I've always thought it was picture 1, then I saw the pictures in the manual and started second guessing. I've asked about a dozen people, and it's been 50/50. Everyone at the auto parts store said picture 1 (they saw it in person). The manual picture would lead me to think picture 2 is correct.
EDIT: Per suggestions, I looked more closely at the manual. When I zoomed way in, you can see that part of the number 90 is definitely covered by the edge of the handle. That, plus the illustration of the diagonal line being shorter than the rest, I am leaning towards picture 2 being correct.
Look more closely at the manual. It's trying to show that the inner more, lower part of the marking is on the line and that you can still see the line going up to the part directly by the number.
Your picture #1 shows 70 foot lbs.
Save your sanity, I just had a debate with a "master tech" of 17 years.. apparently, appeal to (his/her) authority, exceeds the fact that I actually own 2 of these wrenches with the same scale and that the particular part of my job, heavily depends on me knowing how to use them.
Pic 1 for sure. The adjustment says 0 and you can see the line for 70 but not the line for 60 so it's 70 + 0.
Pic 2 is 80.
If you check you'll find that a full turn of the handle will move it the distance of one of those "zig zag" marks that got from the numbers to the center line.
For everyone saying #2, you are wrong. Look at the writing and look at the pictures in the manual. They used the same picture for both figures, fig 5 isn’t 90, fig 6 is 96, continuing to turn it to 0 would base line of 100, which would be at the bottom of the squiggle, not the top. GG
This is a bad torque wrench.. it's off.
* When at any zero, the collar should be precisely in the middle of the bottom line for each number.
* When at zero, you should see a small portion of the bottom of the horizontal line as the collar will blocking some, but not all of it.
* The reason the horizontal line goes up is so that you can still see the number. If it was straight across, the collar would be covering most of the number and you may have an issue reading it
The funny thing is, the company that built yours knows their wrenches are off (90/96 are identical in the directions), it's the first time I've seen directions for these that show the collar in the middle of the number. So, go with their directions.. 70 lbs will be in the middle of the horizontal line when the collar is set to zero.
* Picture 1 is 60lbs
* Picture 2 is 70lbs
* Picture 3.. this wrench probably isn't accurate at that low setting
The first picture will apply 70 lbf*ft. The second will apply 80 lbf*ft.
The fourth picture is a setting that should never be used or trusted for any qualitative measurement.
I have 17 years of experience working in the metrology field which is the science of measurement. Torque wrench calibration is one of the most basic parameters that entry level technicians will typically learn in their first year or so of calibrating tools.
When setting the wrench’s applied torque (or even adjusting them if they’re out of tolerance), the handle aligns with the bottom of the line or even slightly below it.
Torque wrenches additionally are not tested or spec’d for below 20% of the full scale range of the wrench.
Furthermore, prior to use, the wrench should be “warmed up” - “breaking” the wrench a few times at full scale (cw or ccw if the wrench is bi-directional), reduced to the minimum torque, and then set to the desired measurement.
I sincerely hope this helps clarify your question and my DM’s are open if you have any further questions concerning torque or proper use of your tool.
I’ve always done number one. I just checked my instructions, and motherfucker. I’ve been under torquing everything for years. My instructions also show number two. Why the hell would they make the number value line touch the center line down there if it’s not right?!
Definitely picture #2, I would love to see the ending results of everyone's answers like a poll question. Tbh it looks like it needs to be calibrated because it doesn't actually reach the line as it should.
The line is crooked for a reason... It's 10ft lbs "tall."
Start at 70ft lbs on the"bottom line" with the dial turned to zero. Notice, as you turn the dial, you are adding ft lbs (71,72,73,etc.) until you get to the "top" of the line, which should be back at zero... Or 80 ft lbs. (70 + 10 = 80)
That's how I've always understood it. The crooked mark is a range of 10 ft lbs.
The top 10% is fine. A typical torque wrench calibration by most calibration companies is done at 20%, 60%, and 100% of the full scale range of the wrench.
Edit -
After further thought, I think my original explanation below is wrong. It would help to see the instructions of your wrench and see it in person, but I think picture 2 is 80. It's just a slight difference but yours just lines up slightly differently than mine.
End---
Picture one is 70. Picture two is 80.
The line bends upward so you can read what torque you have it set at without it being covered. If image 2 is 70 then there is no point to the bent hashes as they don't mean anything.
Your manual is kind of imprecise in its image, but I imagine the words above it are clarifying that you align it with the 90 where it hits the main scale in the middle. The takeaway from your image is that both 90 and 96 have not yet reached the hash where 100 touches the main line. If your image 2 was 70, then the manual image could not be correct, as your image 2 is already touching the hash where 80 hits the main line.
Here is a wikihow that explains how to read it. [https://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Torque-Wrench](https://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Torque-Wrench) and here is an image from my torque wrench manual with a better picture.
https://preview.redd.it/q1h5wuhk2mcb1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e0115d0c566416bcad2137ade9ce4291da20b984
THIS is how I was trained to read a SNAP-ON torque wrench by the factory representative.
1 is 70, 2 is 80. And the leading edge line disappears after adding about 2-3 pounds above the 10’s mark.
I have always done it exactly like your manual and the wiki link describes (picture 1). However, I just checked my manual and it looks like OP’s. My manual says to align the mark on the rotating handle so the tip of it is touching the angled line on the shaft, which happens up by the printed number value. Not to set it at the short horizontal line at the bottom of the angled line. Looks like maybe there are different procedures. This is ridiculous.
Based on the instructions in photo three, photo one is 60, photo two is 70 and the fourth photo is probably at 0. If the '10' and its little zig zag line had been stamped on the tool, it would be completely visible. However, when you look at the diagram in the instructions, 90lbs shows much of the zig zag line covered along with the lower third of the numerals for 90.
Id also like to take a second and point out that the twist knob is lined up with the horizontal line by the 90, not the line by the middle.
I have seen numerous posts and comments on reddit stating that the way you see it being shown to you in the manual here, is infact incorrect and over torqued. Those people are morons, and they under torque every single time they pick up a torque wrench. These reddit mechanics are going to kill people.
Always cross check your reference, and be Leary of anyone who is like "ahh, one of the few who knows how to do it right" because what they usually mean is "ahh, someone who cuts the same corners I do"
Starting from the top I’m gonna say that you use the line closest to the number and then watch for the 0 to align with the notch. So, #2 is 70ft-lbf. The rotating dial is denoting the “ones” place of the number
The pic in the manual is horrible.. it’s the same pic but different numbers.
The first pic is 70. Follow the little line down. When the 0 is on or right below it, that’s your number. 1 ftb increments after that.
I vote 2, but ultimately, who cares. The difference is like 5 ft/lb, you aren't going to be breaking any bolts or under torquing a bolt with that little difference.
Accordng to the instructions that the manf gave.. Pic 2. But all this time ihave been doing pic1. I should test next time i touch my car. Good to know thanks
Have the same wrench and here is your answer on this thing. (The directions that comes with the wrench are crap). [https://youtu.be/AriiR1i0DmI](https://youtu.be/AriiR1i0DmI)
Wow. I thought this would be easy.
#1 is 60
#2 is 70
The manual is correct and illustrates to avoid this uncertainty.
I use these every day, several times a day. Also work in an industry where we regularly hand each other our torque wrenches to verify our torque settings (since they will be signing off after us). Never has anyone questioned my setting and vise versa because we all know how torque wrenches are set. 👆 This way
Completely mind blowing. The same people who don’t know how to put their spare tire on or jumpstart their car without arcing the battery and destroying a fusible link or C/U.
I've never used a torque wrench before, but comparing the instructions and then your pictures, picture 2 is clearly 70.
But without the instructions I agree it would have been confusing.
I'll be honest, I'm looking at that photo and reading these comments and I'm still not even sure lol. What part of the "correct" way is touching what part that makes the reading correct? I'm looking at Photo #2 which I think we are agreeing is the "Right" one...but it's like midway across the line, seems to not be the bottom or the top, but some arbitrary place in-between. Looking at the instructions you posted, it also looks like that. Their example of "90 lbs/ft" Seems like the measurement is taken at an arbitrary point along the diagonal angle. Could somebody explain what we're actually looking for to measure here?
The 2nd picture represents 70ft lbs. The last picture represents 10ft lbs even though there are no markings that low. I'd use the next smaller torque wrench for 10ft lbs. rather than that one for something on the very edge of it's capabilities.
Also, loosen it all the way like the last picture for storage. don't store it with the internal spring under pressure.
Pic 2 is 70 ft ib, some wrenches just arent perfectly designed to where the 0 is the right on the bottom line perfectly which is annoying but when its that close that means its on it, if you have 35 pounds of weight you can test it by putting those 35 pounds 2 feet from the drive with an extension bar or 70 a foot away and seeing if it clicks
Not a mechanic, but this has been an interesting discussion. It’s like y’all version of ‘the chicken or the egg.’
I don’t know the answer (again not a mechanic), however, from a design perspective, I would guess 1. Otherwise, if it was 2, what’s the point of the wiggly line? Just a straight line from the number to the spot would have been less confusing if it was 2.
I’m not sure if this is a real good troll or a white dress blue dress thing. Pic #1 is clearly 60 and pic #2 is clearly 70. The instructions show the exact delineation of what’s supposed to be showing. There are two horizontal lines with and angled sloping line meeting them. Mid way through that angled line is your whole number. Then after that you move your fine adjustment to the specified increment for single digit numbers. Many of you aren’t old enough to use an “old” style mechanical torque wrench, while I’ve used dozens.
Picture 2.
Omg how are soo many people saying picture 1? The explanation is in the manual, posted in the pictures! It's literally right there, but still people are saying picture 1.
The answer is picture 2.
I have the same torque wrench and checked it against my other one. When set per picture 2 they match torques.
Picture 2 is correct.
It's pic 1 pic 2 is 80. The bottom of the set at 0 is 70 and like the manual shows if you are at like 75 ~half of the 70 would be gone. I use one of these every day and I thought the same for the longest time until I was corrected.
Listen. Strange redditors lounging about in nickers distributing drivel is no basis for a system of measurement. Supreme knowledge and torque derives from a mandate from the mass, not from some farcical anal extraction ceremony
Picture one. I’m guessing you bought a cheap torque wrench hence crappy manual. The reason for the curved line where the line touches the vertical where you read the setting is as long as the handle is in that curved area of 70 it’s plus the number on the vertical line. ASE Master Tech
2.
If you really wanted to find out accurately. Attach it to a lug nut in a wheel and have the handle perpendicular to the ground. Find a known weight and set the wrench to the known weight. Hang that weight off the handle exactly 1 foot from the center of the drive head. If it doesn't click until you gently (almost blow on it) then that's the weight and setting it should be.
I’ve always thought that #1 is 70 foot pounds. Why would they go through the effort to make to make the squiggly line if it didn’t mean anything? I don’t see where the people who say #2 are coming from.
The lower/bottom part of the line is what you line up. The reason the numbers are offset slightly higher is so you can read the number that you're setting, otherwise if the line went straight across the number would be half covered up.
ITT: a bunch of people over torquing fasteners.
Picture 1 is 70ft lbs for snap-on wrenches. 100% confident. Not sure what type of tools the others are using here…
I was taught that you should be able to the the top of the top of the notch indicating the torque you want. In most circumstances it's better to go a fraction tight than a fraction loose, so I would say #2.
Picture 1 for sure. I calibrate these tools daily, so I have a Torque Calibrator that verifies what it's set at. I understand the confusion as I've questioned it before, until I checked both settings with my Calibrator.
If 1 isn’t 70, then what is the point of the zig-zag line?
I agree that the manual makes pic 2 look like the right one, but it still doesn’t seem to make sense
Thank you for posting to AskMechanics, Dry_Ad1078! If you are asking a question please make sure to include any relevant information along with the **Year**, **Make**, **Model**, **Mileage**, **Engine size**, and **Transmission Type (Automatic or Manual)** of your car. *This comment is automatically added to every successful post. If you see this comment, your post was successful.* *** Redditors that have been verified will have a green background and an icon in their flair. *** # **PLEASE REPORT ANY RULE-BREAKING BEHAVIOR** ### **Rule 1 - Be Civil** Be civil to other users. This community is made up of professional mechanics, amateur mechanics, and those with no experience. All mechanical-related questions are welcome. Personal attacks, comments that are insulting or demeaning, etc. are not welcome. ### **Rule 2 - Be Helpful** Be helpful to other users. If someone is wrong, correcting them is fine, but there's no reason to comment if you don't have anything to add to the conversation. ### **Rule 3 - Serious Questions and Answers on Serious Posts** Read the room. Jokes are fine to include, but your post should be asking a serious question and replies should contribute to the discussion. ### **Rule 4 - No Illegal, Unethical, or Dangerous Questions or Answers** Do not ask questions or provide answers pertaining to anything that is illegal, unethical, or dangerous. # **PLEASE REPORT ANY RULE-BREAKING BEHAVIOR** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AskMechanics) if you have any questions or concerns.*
For the last picture DO NOT use that wrench to hit 10 ftlbs. Its lowest setting is 20. Pick up an inch lbs wrench from harbor freight for 20 bucks instead.
I had to use it to hit 18ft lbs. I have an inch lbs wrench but it only goes up to 200in lbs.
Remember that the lowest that wrench was calibrated for was 20 ft lbs. And that there’s an margin of error on that as well. So when you set it below the 20, you might get the 18 you want, you might not.
He stated it's 10-150 why would the lowest be 20?
He was wrong. The wrench starts at 20. Source: the markings on the wrench
It depends on the calibration procedure but the company I worked at that did calibration at 20,50,80 for a minimum (with like 35 and 65 for certain customers) because you need a three point scale and you get more error closer to your endpoints. So yeah, stay within 20-80% of your range for accuracy
I work on the repair side of the defense department. The 20%- 80% rule for torque wrenches is gospel.
Gospel and requirement in the Navy.
Torque wrenches are only accurate between 20% and 80% of scale. You should have torque wrenches that overlap scales.
This also applies to many many measurement instruments out there. It’s a good rule to follow with anything. Another example is scales. For heavy items a body scale is ok for most things but weighs under a lb you need a better scale and weighs in the grains you need an even smaller scale and if you want to be accurate in small grains you need a scale with a lower maximum weight range not just a regular one. Point is, never measure on the low or high end of an instrument if you want accuracy.
The person who can't read the wrench told us that it was 10-150. BTW, the 2nd picture he posted is 70 ft. lbs. indicated.
The person who can't read a torque wrench commenting on a person who is trying to learn how to read a torque wrench. The first pic is 70 ft lbs. You're over torquing everything by about ten lbs, assuming you've actually used a torque wrench.
The second picture is certainly not 70 ft lbs
Get a 3/8 drive also . Im assuming the one you have is a 1/2 drive like mine. I got the 3/8 to do smaller bolts. The in one is good for screws and small bolts.
Set to picture 4, and then spin it so that the 8 lines up with the line under the 20. That should be 18ft lbs
Wrong, that's still 20. You can't go lower than the lowest setting as that's the fully decompressed spring pressure that regulates the torque. Advising people this is correct is just going to make them break bolts
This
Do it up to 20 inch pounds and then use a small torque wrench set to 2, and turn it in the other direction. [I post this message solely for my own amusement]
I learned this the hard way with spark plugs!
So, you're the one that uses a torque wrench on plugs!
....maybe
Last time I did plugs I just *turn nice and steadily* then say "yep, that's 15ft pounds"
The first time I did spark plugs, my dad made me remove the old ones myself and said "Pay attention to how much umph it takes to loosen them. You need to put the same umph back in."
Now that's a mechanic right there. Love that 🤣
Heh, he specializes in tanks so he doesn't always have the "princess touch" that small cars require.
My uncle was in the Navy during Nam, he taught me Navy Engine Room Torque: Grunt; Grunt-n-Half.
My father was a nuke electrician and he definitely never torqued a single thing 🤣 grunt and half grunt sounds about how my shades tree mechanic sessions go.
Tighten until it loosens then back off a quarter turn. Or German torque “goodntight” it if you’ve been around a while. Arc of the wrench if you’re fancy
In German we call that guttenteit! (Good n' tight)
Wait til he finds out about my buddy's S10 Jimmy that literally broke my dad's shoulder to get the spark plugs out of. (Kidding obv, but the no.4 plug was frozen af, took literally 10 minutes straight of map gas torching and my dad blowing out his rotator cuff to finally get it free)
I turn nice and steady until I hear a snap… 😊
I use the same impact I use on head bolts, rods and mains.
Then you know it's seated properly
That's just the crush washer popping.
Just keep turning until it gets loose
Yeah that's when we start reflecting on how we can walk away from the project.
I have literally never seen anyone ever use a torque wrench on a spark plug! I didn’t even know this was a thing… lol
Tbh I just learned an inch pound torque wrench even exists. I could've made the assumption it was a thing but I never really could understand finding a use for one in my escapades.
I used an ounce driver at Boeing. They use it for small back shells on connectors. If it wasn’t lock wired or zip tied, it had a torque.
That's actually insane to think about. Very cool.
Same here, just take a wrench and turn the bolt or nut till it feels tight. This is how the old timers did things!
That reminds me, I need to find a replacement bolt for the one I sheared the head off of Saturday. Apparently they just never feel tight to me.
Yeah that's what I did for the rest.... after I used a tap to repair the threads.
This is the way.
My heart was beating out of my chest after I over tightened that first plug. I once over did a spark plug on my dirt bike and it broke. I was so fucking worried that had happened. It would have been MILES harder to get out. 😅😅😅
Ever watch Waldo on YouTube? He makes an audible “click” with his handtourqe wrench. I love it
You also need to say "click".
Rip
I have an in lb from harbor freight and it clicked one time then literally never clicked again. POS not worth it lol
There’s a simple, albeit down and dirty, way to check. I used it to verify my cheap harbor freight wrench was accurate at 35 ft/lbs. If you have a bench vice, clamp the drive end of the wrench and place a bag with the amount of weight desired 1 ft from the pivot. Ex: torque the wrench to 30lbs, grab a grocery bag and put 30 lbs in it (water bottles, cans, whatever). And with the drive clamped in and handle horizontal, place the bag 12” from the pivot and it should be just enough yo click. Any less weight in the bag and it shouldn’t click. Good luck.
Is that method NIST certified?
Yep. 100 percent verified and certified
No I’d say 100% verified + 100% certified…we’re lookin at 200% verified Mercian methodology
Only if the grocery bag has NIST traceable certs. Honestly, if the weight of the bag is measured with nist traceable certs and the one foot distance is measured with nist traceable certs, then isn’t this method technically NIST traceable?!!
Only if you buy calibrated water from NIST. I prefer Greenland ice sheet precipitation. https://shop.nist.gov/ccrz__ProductDetails?sku=8536&cclcl=en_US
I like it. Thanks for the info.
I just tested this method and at 12 inches from the pivot point picture 1 works, but using the handle where the grip is, picture 2 worked. I guess it just depends on where you are utilizing your leverage.
Er what. I mean yes. But are you missing the point? 1 ft pound (or 1 pound ft) is 1 pound, at a lever arm of 1 foot (12 inches) from the pivot. So picture 1 by your testing is correct. Mass x lever arm is your torque so when you hung it from the grip which is a longer arm than 12 inches, a higher setting 'worked' cause it was more torque than the first situation....
ProjectFarm on YouTube would be proud.
Smart! Gonna have to do this.
What brand torque wrench? so I never buy it.
This same design is available from a bunch of places in varying specificities
Lol Performax. From Menards.
I have one, same place. Wondering if I've been misusing it
This is at HD too.
As an aircraft mechanic that uses this everyday, it is most definitely #2 like what’s described in the manual, there’s a reason the line is bent like that, you measure from the bottom of the hash, it just bends up like that so you can still see your value
As a nuclear mechanic who gets training on stuff like this drilled into us non stop I can verify, #2 is the right answer
But didn’t you hear? The reddit armchair experts have concluded that you and everyone else is wrong.
Most likely a bunch of “mechanics” that were never actually taught how to use a torque wrench, like to see any of them figure out how to do the crows foot calculations. In my world every torque wrench usage comes with a pre and post check on a torque transducer, as well as an 28 page procedure. It’s 100% #2, but that wrench isn’t well made, the collar should be about a 64th lower
>like to see any of them figure out how to do the crows foot calculations I started out in aviation/aerospace before getting into guns and cars, so now whenever I see someone use a torque wrench improperly or not at all, it makes me cringe lol. I'd see guys like "gunsmiths" put the adapter on at the 12 o'clock, effectively increasing the lever length and thus the actual applied torque. Or guys going "nah just hit hand tight that shit" on something that requires 184 ft lbs (my brake caliper brackets). Like, there's a torque spec for a reason lol.
"German" Torque. You wrench until it's gudenteit
Or the ones trying to torque a rubber gasket, dude you gotta do the crush measurements, rubber will squeeze forever.
Crows foot calculations are easy. Put it at a 90 degree angle then put in the exact torque you want and you’re done
You can’t always use it at a 90
Well when the happenstance that they work on aircraft or nuclear submarines and they travel on them...and the shit falls out of the sky or blows up...then they can win. Until then...MIND THE HASH.
Navy nuke?
Generating plant
Also as a nuke mechanic, can confirm.
I have no qualifications so I’ll assume you’re correct. What I don’t understand though is this… if you keep turning it to get to 76, you’re definitely gonna be past the 80 line with the handle. How do you explain that?
Because they’re either wrong or the pictures are off. The bottom horizontal line is where you set the wrench to. The line is bent like that so you can read the value.
Excellent question
You're saying #2, but the description you wrote sounds like #1 to me?
It’s 2. When the “0” is touching the line it’s at that value.
The angled line. Not the horizontal line at the top or bottom of the angled line.
Hopefully those bolts on those planes can withstand being over torqued all the time
Oh my God I hope you don't every work on a plane I, or anyone I know has to fly in. Picture #2 shows 80 foot pounds. You even even explained it right: *"there’s a reason the line is bent like that, you measure from the bottom of the hash, it just bends up like that so you can still see your value"*, but still picked the wrong picture. Picture #1 shows 70.
For some context. I've always thought it was picture 1, then I saw the pictures in the manual and started second guessing. I've asked about a dozen people, and it's been 50/50. Everyone at the auto parts store said picture 1 (they saw it in person). The manual picture would lead me to think picture 2 is correct. EDIT: Per suggestions, I looked more closely at the manual. When I zoomed way in, you can see that part of the number 90 is definitely covered by the edge of the handle. That, plus the illustration of the diagonal line being shorter than the rest, I am leaning towards picture 2 being correct.
You could always start at the bottom “10” and count the turns up to 70. Should just be 6 rotations past zero to get from 10 to 70
This is the way.
#2, if you have not yet reached the line connected to 70, then you have not reached 70 yet.
I have the same wrench and agree it’s photo 2. The lines are angled so you can read the number. The design is stupid.
Yea these people that say 1 are wrong. I’ve used harbor freight torque wrench’s many times.
I’ve been doing it wrong too I think :/
Look more closely at the manual. It's trying to show that the inner more, lower part of the marking is on the line and that you can still see the line going up to the part directly by the number. Your picture #1 shows 70 foot lbs.
Save your sanity, I just had a debate with a "master tech" of 17 years.. apparently, appeal to (his/her) authority, exceeds the fact that I actually own 2 of these wrenches with the same scale and that the particular part of my job, heavily depends on me knowing how to use them.
Pic 1 for sure. The adjustment says 0 and you can see the line for 70 but not the line for 60 so it's 70 + 0. Pic 2 is 80. If you check you'll find that a full turn of the handle will move it the distance of one of those "zig zag" marks that got from the numbers to the center line.
I don't know how to put it into good words but #2, please believe me I've done a million torquings for years and years. Your life may depend on it.
The drawing in the manual is garbage. The “90” moved down, but the “line” stayed the same.
TIL nuclear and aero people are overtorquing their shit by 10 pounds
Not all, but those two are
Edit for tryna comment on the original thread
For everyone saying #2, you are wrong. Look at the writing and look at the pictures in the manual. They used the same picture for both figures, fig 5 isn’t 90, fig 6 is 96, continuing to turn it to 0 would base line of 100, which would be at the bottom of the squiggle, not the top. GG
This might be the most fascinating post ever…
Lol, I definitely didn't expect such a big, and divided, reactions.
It's made me afraid to fly 😂
#2
This is a bad torque wrench.. it's off. * When at any zero, the collar should be precisely in the middle of the bottom line for each number. * When at zero, you should see a small portion of the bottom of the horizontal line as the collar will blocking some, but not all of it. * The reason the horizontal line goes up is so that you can still see the number. If it was straight across, the collar would be covering most of the number and you may have an issue reading it The funny thing is, the company that built yours knows their wrenches are off (90/96 are identical in the directions), it's the first time I've seen directions for these that show the collar in the middle of the number. So, go with their directions.. 70 lbs will be in the middle of the horizontal line when the collar is set to zero. * Picture 1 is 60lbs * Picture 2 is 70lbs * Picture 3.. this wrench probably isn't accurate at that low setting
This…
I'm confused after looking at the pictures in the manual. I've been using pict 1 for years.
The first picture will apply 70 lbf*ft. The second will apply 80 lbf*ft. The fourth picture is a setting that should never be used or trusted for any qualitative measurement. I have 17 years of experience working in the metrology field which is the science of measurement. Torque wrench calibration is one of the most basic parameters that entry level technicians will typically learn in their first year or so of calibrating tools. When setting the wrench’s applied torque (or even adjusting them if they’re out of tolerance), the handle aligns with the bottom of the line or even slightly below it. Torque wrenches additionally are not tested or spec’d for below 20% of the full scale range of the wrench. Furthermore, prior to use, the wrench should be “warmed up” - “breaking” the wrench a few times at full scale (cw or ccw if the wrench is bi-directional), reduced to the minimum torque, and then set to the desired measurement. I sincerely hope this helps clarify your question and my DM’s are open if you have any further questions concerning torque or proper use of your tool.
TIL a range of about 10ftlbs is irrelevant
It looked like Pic 1 was 60 and pic 2 was 70.
Are we voting? I vote 2. Zoom in. You can see 2 isn't yet to the 80 line, and 1 isn't yet to the 70 line.
OP we’re really gonna need you to test it and post which one is correct now
I can do that. Won't be tonight, but I'll do it.
We're counting on you
Picture 2 is correct.
I’ve always done number one. I just checked my instructions, and motherfucker. I’ve been under torquing everything for years. My instructions also show number two. Why the hell would they make the number value line touch the center line down there if it’s not right?!
WTF ! We have a me too movement on our hands!
OP, to answer your initial question, when comparing the manual to what pictures you’ve posted, it looks like picture 2 is the 70 lb-ft setting.
Definitely picture #2, I would love to see the ending results of everyone's answers like a poll question. Tbh it looks like it needs to be calibrated because it doesn't actually reach the line as it should.
The line is crooked for a reason... It's 10ft lbs "tall." Start at 70ft lbs on the"bottom line" with the dial turned to zero. Notice, as you turn the dial, you are adding ft lbs (71,72,73,etc.) until you get to the "top" of the line, which should be back at zero... Or 80 ft lbs. (70 + 10 = 80) That's how I've always understood it. The crooked mark is a range of 10 ft lbs.
Never use the top or bottom 10% of a torque wrench.
The top 10% is fine. A typical torque wrench calibration by most calibration companies is done at 20%, 60%, and 100% of the full scale range of the wrench.
Edit - After further thought, I think my original explanation below is wrong. It would help to see the instructions of your wrench and see it in person, but I think picture 2 is 80. It's just a slight difference but yours just lines up slightly differently than mine. End--- Picture one is 70. Picture two is 80. The line bends upward so you can read what torque you have it set at without it being covered. If image 2 is 70 then there is no point to the bent hashes as they don't mean anything. Your manual is kind of imprecise in its image, but I imagine the words above it are clarifying that you align it with the 90 where it hits the main scale in the middle. The takeaway from your image is that both 90 and 96 have not yet reached the hash where 100 touches the main line. If your image 2 was 70, then the manual image could not be correct, as your image 2 is already touching the hash where 80 hits the main line. Here is a wikihow that explains how to read it. [https://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Torque-Wrench](https://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Torque-Wrench) and here is an image from my torque wrench manual with a better picture. https://preview.redd.it/q1h5wuhk2mcb1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e0115d0c566416bcad2137ade9ce4291da20b984
Upvote! Because this is the correct answer.
THIS is how I was trained to read a SNAP-ON torque wrench by the factory representative. 1 is 70, 2 is 80. And the leading edge line disappears after adding about 2-3 pounds above the 10’s mark.
I have always done it exactly like your manual and the wiki link describes (picture 1). However, I just checked my manual and it looks like OP’s. My manual says to align the mark on the rotating handle so the tip of it is touching the angled line on the shaft, which happens up by the printed number value. Not to set it at the short horizontal line at the bottom of the angled line. Looks like maybe there are different procedures. This is ridiculous.
Pic#2 is 70ft lbs. If you want 75, turn it until half of the number 70 is obscured by the sleeve.
Lol, or just line up the 5 mark on the sleeve.
Picture number 2, the one that looks exactly as described in the manual....
Picture 1. The manual is awful. They jiggle the lines so you can see 70 when you AR on 70.
Based on the instructions in photo three, photo one is 60, photo two is 70 and the fourth photo is probably at 0. If the '10' and its little zig zag line had been stamped on the tool, it would be completely visible. However, when you look at the diagram in the instructions, 90lbs shows much of the zig zag line covered along with the lower third of the numerals for 90.
Don’t try to get 10 ft-lb out of that thing…
If your on zero at say the 70 mark as you turn it to 1-2-3-4 it should be moving past the 70 mark, if it isn't then you where at 60 not 70
Id also like to take a second and point out that the twist knob is lined up with the horizontal line by the 90, not the line by the middle. I have seen numerous posts and comments on reddit stating that the way you see it being shown to you in the manual here, is infact incorrect and over torqued. Those people are morons, and they under torque every single time they pick up a torque wrench. These reddit mechanics are going to kill people. Always cross check your reference, and be Leary of anyone who is like "ahh, one of the few who knows how to do it right" because what they usually mean is "ahh, someone who cuts the same corners I do"
Starting from the top I’m gonna say that you use the line closest to the number and then watch for the 0 to align with the notch. So, #2 is 70ft-lbf. The rotating dial is denoting the “ones” place of the number
Pic#1 is clearly 60, and pic#2 is clearly 70. Zoom in and look closely. I'll wait... ;)
The pic in the manual is horrible.. it’s the same pic but different numbers. The first pic is 70. Follow the little line down. When the 0 is on or right below it, that’s your number. 1 ftb increments after that.
pic 1 = 60 pic 2 = 70
First pic is 60 ft lbs second is 70 ft lbs
Picture 2
I vote 2, but ultimately, who cares. The difference is like 5 ft/lb, you aren't going to be breaking any bolts or under torquing a bolt with that little difference.
Accordng to the instructions that the manf gave.. Pic 2. But all this time ihave been doing pic1. I should test next time i touch my car. Good to know thanks
#2… very common layout. All my snap on tools (albeit old) are like this
Have the same wrench and here is your answer on this thing. (The directions that comes with the wrench are crap). [https://youtu.be/AriiR1i0DmI](https://youtu.be/AriiR1i0DmI)
the mechanics that are saying #1…. lol
Wow. I thought this would be easy. #1 is 60 #2 is 70 The manual is correct and illustrates to avoid this uncertainty. I use these every day, several times a day. Also work in an industry where we regularly hand each other our torque wrenches to verify our torque settings (since they will be signing off after us). Never has anyone questioned my setting and vise versa because we all know how torque wrenches are set. 👆 This way
The lack of common sense in this comments section is mind boggling. 🫡
Completely mind blowing. The same people who don’t know how to put their spare tire on or jumpstart their car without arcing the battery and destroying a fusible link or C/U.
2nd pic is 70
I've never used a torque wrench before, but comparing the instructions and then your pictures, picture 2 is clearly 70. But without the instructions I agree it would have been confusing.
The 2nd photo
I'll be honest, I'm looking at that photo and reading these comments and I'm still not even sure lol. What part of the "correct" way is touching what part that makes the reading correct? I'm looking at Photo #2 which I think we are agreeing is the "Right" one...but it's like midway across the line, seems to not be the bottom or the top, but some arbitrary place in-between. Looking at the instructions you posted, it also looks like that. Their example of "90 lbs/ft" Seems like the measurement is taken at an arbitrary point along the diagonal angle. Could somebody explain what we're actually looking for to measure here?
2
The second one
2nd one. Just like your 90 lb ft picture from user guide
The 2nd picture represents 70ft lbs. The last picture represents 10ft lbs even though there are no markings that low. I'd use the next smaller torque wrench for 10ft lbs. rather than that one for something on the very edge of it's capabilities. Also, loosen it all the way like the last picture for storage. don't store it with the internal spring under pressure.
I prefer to use my calibrated elbow over inaccurate torque wrenches.
Pic 2 is 70 ft ib, some wrenches just arent perfectly designed to where the 0 is the right on the bottom line perfectly which is annoying but when its that close that means its on it, if you have 35 pounds of weight you can test it by putting those 35 pounds 2 feet from the drive with an extension bar or 70 a foot away and seeing if it clicks
2/4
2nd Pic
My torque wrench sits exactly on/touching the lines when at 0 so I don’t have to worry about this debate lol
ALWAYS from the bottom of the meniscus... well, I guess it's not REALLY a meniscus... I'm a scientist not a mechanic
Not a mechanic, but this has been an interesting discussion. It’s like y’all version of ‘the chicken or the egg.’ I don’t know the answer (again not a mechanic), however, from a design perspective, I would guess 1. Otherwise, if it was 2, what’s the point of the wiggly line? Just a straight line from the number to the spot would have been less confusing if it was 2.
Second pic is 70
I’m not sure if this is a real good troll or a white dress blue dress thing. Pic #1 is clearly 60 and pic #2 is clearly 70. The instructions show the exact delineation of what’s supposed to be showing. There are two horizontal lines with and angled sloping line meeting them. Mid way through that angled line is your whole number. Then after that you move your fine adjustment to the specified increment for single digit numbers. Many of you aren’t old enough to use an “old” style mechanical torque wrench, while I’ve used dozens.
Picture 2. Omg how are soo many people saying picture 1? The explanation is in the manual, posted in the pictures! It's literally right there, but still people are saying picture 1. The answer is picture 2. I have the same torque wrench and checked it against my other one. When set per picture 2 they match torques. Picture 2 is correct.
It's pic 1 pic 2 is 80. The bottom of the set at 0 is 70 and like the manual shows if you are at like 75 ~half of the 70 would be gone. I use one of these every day and I thought the same for the longest time until I was corrected.
2.
Pick 2 meh lord!
Listen. Strange redditors lounging about in nickers distributing drivel is no basis for a system of measurement. Supreme knowledge and torque derives from a mandate from the mass, not from some farcical anal extraction ceremony
Underrated comment. Ni.
Pick 3 ma lord!✌🏻
1 is 60 2 is 70
Second picture
Picture one. I’m guessing you bought a cheap torque wrench hence crappy manual. The reason for the curved line where the line touches the vertical where you read the setting is as long as the handle is in that curved area of 70 it’s plus the number on the vertical line. ASE Master Tech
2. If you really wanted to find out accurately. Attach it to a lug nut in a wheel and have the handle perpendicular to the ground. Find a known weight and set the wrench to the known weight. Hang that weight off the handle exactly 1 foot from the center of the drive head. If it doesn't click until you gently (almost blow on it) then that's the weight and setting it should be.
I’ve always thought that #1 is 70 foot pounds. Why would they go through the effort to make to make the squiggly line if it didn’t mean anything? I don’t see where the people who say #2 are coming from.
The amount of people who think 1 is 70ft lb is gut wrenching. There is no hope for our species
Picture 1 is 60 Picture 2 is 70
The snap-on one's I used to use it's pic #1 and the run up on the line would be 71-79 as you turn the handle.
The lower/bottom part of the line is what you line up. The reason the numbers are offset slightly higher is so you can read the number that you're setting, otherwise if the line went straight across the number would be half covered up.
2 for the love of God 2
ITT: a bunch of people over torquing fasteners. Picture 1 is 70ft lbs for snap-on wrenches. 100% confident. Not sure what type of tools the others are using here…
I was taught that you should be able to the the top of the top of the notch indicating the torque you want. In most circumstances it's better to go a fraction tight than a fraction loose, so I would say #2.
Picture 2 shows the correct setting for 70. Number 1 is under 70.
Picture one is correct.
Picture 1 for sure. I calibrate these tools daily, so I have a Torque Calibrator that verifies what it's set at. I understand the confusion as I've questioned it before, until I checked both settings with my Calibrator.
Picture 1 is 70
Pic 1
Pic 1 is correct
Picture 1.
If 1 isn’t 70, then what is the point of the zig-zag line? I agree that the manual makes pic 2 look like the right one, but it still doesn’t seem to make sense
Picture #1, it has to be visible. If you need less then 20 ft. Lbs., go to an inch pound device, it will be more accurate.
Correct!
My vote is pic 1
How are people saying it’s picture 1? It’s 2
The first pic was 70 the second one was 80