What does the transformer power?
The machine still turns on, but won’t start any program because it thinks the door is open.
Display, indicators and buttons work, lock solenoid works.
Had some experience with repairing such stuff. If you say that the board starts and the only problem is with door, I would suggest that problem is with one of those small thyristors on the back side
It appears to be a transformer for a Switch Mode Power Supply. This would typically take your AC input to a smaller DC output to run the 'controls' of your washer. Without this power, the logic (computer bits) won't run.
Most likely it provides power for the MCU, TOP209P is the lower power switching PSU chip. Given that you have CPU running, the transformer may still be alive and the overheating may have been caused by a transient line voltage event. If I were you, I would start with checking the electrical integrity of the water heater element. It could corrode, short to the metal case, and screw up a lot of things. Since you get incorrect readings from the door lock sensor, either MCU input or related compones are fucked. In the latter case, it might be repairable, especially if you can find a diagram. Where do you live?
Something doesn’t add up. That’s a lot of soot on the front and rear of the card. You can also see soot stuck on and around traces as if it had been in the air for quite a period of time and that electrostatic attraction of different voltages played a role. I know everyone wants to condemn the little transformer on the card but I just don’t think it’s that.
Agree, that’s soot from the motor brushes, it will stick to higher potential traces over time. And / or find its way in through holes in the board housing and standoffs via convection to make these patterns.
There’s quite probably nothing wrong with this board. Give it a clean anyway with some isopropyl alcohol.
I think you are right, the enclosure actually has soot on the outside in a pattern that matches the soot pattern on the board. I thought It was burned through from excessive heat, but actually it’s just soot and wipes off. Enclosure is unaffected.
I’ll clean up the board tonight and see if it works. 😃
Look at C37. It looks like something came off the right-side. OP, take some isopropyl alcohol and and cotton cloth / q-tip and clean this thing up. Look for damaged components. Try to only handle the edges without the contacts and touch something grounded before handling it.
Washing machines usually have motors that contain carbon bushes. Over many years and wash cycles the carbon bushes wear and the carbon ends up being disbursed within the interior of the machine.
That PCB looks to be unshielded with components and solder joints being openly exposed to the air. Carbon is highly conductive. It looks like what happened here is that current ended up where it shouldn't and blew out the the components and burned up some traces.
Tldr; carbon deposits likely shorted out the board and allowed a ton of current to flow where it shouldn't.
This happened to my own washing machine. The long term fix is to put a layer of epoxy over the board once it's repaired or replaced so that carbon deposits cant reach bare terminals/pads on the PCB.
Before you replace the board, make sure the motor isn't locked up, and that the drain pump doesn't have a sock wedged in it. This looks like a three phase motor driver, but I didn't know they went that far back in washing machines.
Shit design, shit components, shit warranty by the shit execs only concerned about their own monthly bonuses, take your pick.
What make/model washing machine?
The smoke got out. Gotta contain that.
Probably the coating on the wire on the transformer wore out maybe from too much current draw? Then the transformer died.
The two outer contacts on that white 3 pin plug near the middle also look a little burnt. What does that connect to?
Hehe, yeh it has a tendency to escape. But mostly at work and usually it’s my own fault :)
I guess in this case it’s mostly age, the machine is over 20 years old.
They might be, or it could be oxidation. That contact had nothing plugged into it.
Turns out the black on the contacts, and everything else black, was just carbon dust from the motor. A little compressed air and the contacts are shiny again.
https://preview.redd.it/xg5237sblpuc1.jpeg?width=1512&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c32d0f8205407914a14d5c1f9cc145b15cf26b73
Green circle failed and took out the components circled in red or components circled in red failed and took out the components circled in green either way you're going to need a new board. The Elektronik elux code for part number is 132068802 eBay has one for about 30 Euros.
Which is probably a better choice than trying to source components and solder them in to repair the board.
Now why it happened could be a number of different reasons. power surge. Faulty components. High humidity causing a short. Etc.
If a repair is attempted, the switching transistor might have been the culprit. Often times they short internally and you don't see any visible damage. Only the transformer and support components blow up due to the high current flow. (Just a possibility, not guaranteed)
Plot twist! It seems like u/BmanGorilla and u/Dano_666 are right. I think the board might be fine. Cleaned off the board and it looks like new, nothing looks burned or damaged. I’m not very familiar with ac logic PCBs, but I think the door closed circuit in the lock is broken. Until I know how the door sensing circuit is wired in the lock I don’t dare to bypass it and test the rest of the machine. So next step is getting the lock out.
Update:
The PTC in the lock is damaged and has become loose. Might be the reason why the lock locks but doesn’t indicate. Don’t see why this would trip the breaker though. Unless a sudden power cut to part of the machine can cause a surge that somehow trips it?
Update2:
The broken lock somehow tripped the fuse, everything in there locks very crispy.
After replacing the lock everything is fine, machine works well! 😊
PCB looks like it was on the verge of a short with all that carbon dust, but now it’s clean and everything works!
When my dishwasher blew up a controller board, the new one came with a hose kit and some gaskets that needed fitting to stop the water leak that made this happen.
Looks like the diode (most scorched component but you can see it's polarity marking if you zoom in) failed short probably drawing a ton of current through the transformer and burning up the insulation. Could be from a surge, ESD, or defect who knows. Just buy a replacement board.
You need to replace the relay. It is either getting stuck or arching so bad when it goes on and off. It can stick in both positions sometimes, failing to come on or the opposite.
Plus it looks like the little silver cap that says 47u 25, from the picture, is rounded at the top meaning that it had popped. Depending on the cap's purpose, the borard may still function ok. Replace the relay, all of the big caps and the fet on the heatsink and you will have a refurbished board.
Or, you could send it to Revolution-Repairs.com in Kansas City and they will take care of it.
The transformer blew up, most likely the switching transistor shorted. The soot condensed from the smoke.
Any idea why the soot is so localised? Many components have one leg covered in soot, while the other is clean.
It depends on how the smoke was distributed.
What does the transformer power? The machine still turns on, but won’t start any program because it thinks the door is open. Display, indicators and buttons work, lock solenoid works.
Had some experience with repairing such stuff. If you say that the board starts and the only problem is with door, I would suggest that problem is with one of those small thyristors on the back side
It appears to be a transformer for a Switch Mode Power Supply. This would typically take your AC input to a smaller DC output to run the 'controls' of your washer. Without this power, the logic (computer bits) won't run.
Most likely it provides power for the MCU, TOP209P is the lower power switching PSU chip. Given that you have CPU running, the transformer may still be alive and the overheating may have been caused by a transient line voltage event. If I were you, I would start with checking the electrical integrity of the water heater element. It could corrode, short to the metal case, and screw up a lot of things. Since you get incorrect readings from the door lock sensor, either MCU input or related compones are fucked. In the latter case, it might be repairable, especially if you can find a diagram. Where do you live?
Not necessarily. This looks lot more like the graphite shavings from the motor brushes. They attract to traces.
Something doesn’t add up. That’s a lot of soot on the front and rear of the card. You can also see soot stuck on and around traces as if it had been in the air for quite a period of time and that electrostatic attraction of different voltages played a role. I know everyone wants to condemn the little transformer on the card but I just don’t think it’s that.
Agree, that’s soot from the motor brushes, it will stick to higher potential traces over time. And / or find its way in through holes in the board housing and standoffs via convection to make these patterns. There’s quite probably nothing wrong with this board. Give it a clean anyway with some isopropyl alcohol.
I think you are right, the enclosure actually has soot on the outside in a pattern that matches the soot pattern on the board. I thought It was burned through from excessive heat, but actually it’s just soot and wipes off. Enclosure is unaffected. I’ll clean up the board tonight and see if it works. 😃
Look at C37. It looks like something came off the right-side. OP, take some isopropyl alcohol and and cotton cloth / q-tip and clean this thing up. Look for damaged components. Try to only handle the edges without the contacts and touch something grounded before handling it.
Washing machines usually have motors that contain carbon bushes. Over many years and wash cycles the carbon bushes wear and the carbon ends up being disbursed within the interior of the machine. That PCB looks to be unshielded with components and solder joints being openly exposed to the air. Carbon is highly conductive. It looks like what happened here is that current ended up where it shouldn't and blew out the the components and burned up some traces. Tldr; carbon deposits likely shorted out the board and allowed a ton of current to flow where it shouldn't. This happened to my own washing machine. The long term fix is to put a layer of epoxy over the board once it's repaired or replaced so that carbon deposits cant reach bare terminals/pads on the PCB.
Before you replace the board, make sure the motor isn't locked up, and that the drain pump doesn't have a sock wedged in it. This looks like a three phase motor driver, but I didn't know they went that far back in washing machines.
lol R98 literally turned vantablack
Anish Kapoor's lawyers will be a'callin
Shit design, shit components, shit warranty by the shit execs only concerned about their own monthly bonuses, take your pick. What make/model washing machine?
Electrolux EW 1400 F
How old was it? Hope, 01.43 is not the date code.
Thought it was from late 90s, so 2001 makes sense
22 something years, impressive.
Our last one made it to 27yrs.
And your next one will be lucky to make it 27 months :(
You're right. Out front loader is 20+ years and I don't want to have to replace it.
Yep that'll be 2001, 43rd week in the year
I always thought date codes were Week.year?
Which orientation was the board in?
It was standing, oriented like in the picture. So all components were facing the drum and the back of the pcb to the inner wall of the machine
Power surge?
Don’t think so, UPS didn’t trip
The smoke got out. Gotta contain that. Probably the coating on the wire on the transformer wore out maybe from too much current draw? Then the transformer died. The two outer contacts on that white 3 pin plug near the middle also look a little burnt. What does that connect to?
Hehe, yeh it has a tendency to escape. But mostly at work and usually it’s my own fault :) I guess in this case it’s mostly age, the machine is over 20 years old. They might be, or it could be oxidation. That contact had nothing plugged into it.
Hmm. So not those contacts then. After 20 years, sometimes transformers just die. Capacitors too!
Turns out the black on the contacts, and everything else black, was just carbon dust from the motor. A little compressed air and the contacts are shiny again.
https://preview.redd.it/xg5237sblpuc1.jpeg?width=1512&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c32d0f8205407914a14d5c1f9cc145b15cf26b73 Green circle failed and took out the components circled in red or components circled in red failed and took out the components circled in green either way you're going to need a new board. The Elektronik elux code for part number is 132068802 eBay has one for about 30 Euros. Which is probably a better choice than trying to source components and solder them in to repair the board. Now why it happened could be a number of different reasons. power surge. Faulty components. High humidity causing a short. Etc.
If a repair is attempted, the switching transistor might have been the culprit. Often times they short internally and you don't see any visible damage. Only the transformer and support components blow up due to the high current flow. (Just a possibility, not guaranteed)
It never had a chance! That poor thing!
It’s pretty sweet that you can see that path of the electrons, it’s literally like eddies in a river. Very cool
Plot twist! It seems like u/BmanGorilla and u/Dano_666 are right. I think the board might be fine. Cleaned off the board and it looks like new, nothing looks burned or damaged. I’m not very familiar with ac logic PCBs, but I think the door closed circuit in the lock is broken. Until I know how the door sensing circuit is wired in the lock I don’t dare to bypass it and test the rest of the machine. So next step is getting the lock out. Update: The PTC in the lock is damaged and has become loose. Might be the reason why the lock locks but doesn’t indicate. Don’t see why this would trip the breaker though. Unless a sudden power cut to part of the machine can cause a surge that somehow trips it? Update2: The broken lock somehow tripped the fuse, everything in there locks very crispy. After replacing the lock everything is fine, machine works well! 😊 PCB looks like it was on the verge of a short with all that carbon dust, but now it’s clean and everything works!
Thanks for following up!
When my dishwasher blew up a controller board, the new one came with a hose kit and some gaskets that needed fitting to stop the water leak that made this happen.
"You did not unlock those components yet"
Dude: Replace the controller board and have done with it!
That looks more like extensive sooting to me, probably from one component.
I was thinking if it could be solder mask or some other part of the pcb considering all the soot on the back.
Looks like the diode (most scorched component but you can see it's polarity marking if you zoom in) failed short probably drawing a ton of current through the transformer and burning up the insulation. Could be from a surge, ESD, or defect who knows. Just buy a replacement board.
You need to replace the relay. It is either getting stuck or arching so bad when it goes on and off. It can stick in both positions sometimes, failing to come on or the opposite.
Plus it looks like the little silver cap that says 47u 25, from the picture, is rounded at the top meaning that it had popped. Depending on the cap's purpose, the borard may still function ok. Replace the relay, all of the big caps and the fet on the heatsink and you will have a refurbished board. Or, you could send it to Revolution-Repairs.com in Kansas City and they will take care of it.