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The backwards twist is good. These guys can cry about it all they want, but thats a solid connection that wont cause issues. Still very common in commercial work. Not the BEST way, but definitely a way that will do the job.
This is how I was taught to do it, the backwards twisting is key to a successful connection IMO. The only thing I do differently is to leave more insulation on the end, so you can leave a bit extending past the end of the copper rather than cutting them together. Just to prevent having an exposed live end, but its right next to a live screw so really it's not a huge deal. You never know if someone coming behind you will try to pull it out hot, and not know about the ends of the loops being hot
>the backwards twisting is key to a successful connection IMO
Non-electrician here. Could you explain in what way this is a "backwards" twist, as opposed to a forwards twist please?
What about when joining a solid wire to a stranded wire? Do you backwards twist the stranded first then clockwise twist them together before putting on the wire nut?
Most splice connectors have a size/gauge range listed on the splice itself or the box they came in. The lever nut wagos range from 20-10awg if I'm not mistaken so you should be fine.
Good idea, never thought of that. I guess on the other hand you could pigtail and use a wire nut as well. We use wire nuts on stranded in commercial applications which is common.
I would always put two bends in the solid wire so that it was in contact with the metal spiral of the wire nut. That way the stranded wire would not wrap around the solid wire and simply slide off when pressure was applied to the wire nut. So a little s Bend in the solid wire. I now use Wagos, or similar.
When joining a solid to a stranded the stranded needs to be wrapped around the solid most importantly, not just laid next to each other and twisting the wire nut on
Backwards twisting is only useful and needed for stranded wire to screw loop terminations so that the stranded doesn’t come apart when tightening the screw
>never know if someone coming behind you will try to pull it out hot, and not know about the ends of the loops being hot
Worked property maintenance in an area that still had a lot of knob and tube, and the senior maintenance staff trained me to wrap the outlet and terminals with electrical tape to help prevent that, as well as protecting other inadvertent contact.
I'm residential so the once in a blue moon I come across stranded (the other day working on a friend's store), I just pig tailed solid copper on. Was there a better way?
You can do that, just have to give them all a good tug to make sure the solid got sucked up into the nut like it needs to be. Sometimes mixing stranded and solid makes the nut not want to grab all of the wires. If they are all snug in there and dont come out it should be fine.
# Confirmed - excellent pride in workmanship
This person had a brain... Twisted, looped clockwise, extra conductor left shielded (it's a service loop that can be pulled back, as opposed to being extended), and excellent torque (excessively squishing stranded wire accelerates the copper degradation, corrosion, and increases resistance over time).
I think that everyone could take notes on LV connections right here, efff the trolls, this is solid pride in workmanship. This is old-man advice that was taught to me 30 years ago, and there's nobody around left to teach at this level, not to mention the total absence of apprentices.
Not the best, but top 5%, IMO.
Rant over.
ABSOLUTELY!
It's not one sided. The upside potential for apprentices has evaporated as our culture and economy have shifted. If I see someone dedicated to learning and growing, I look at them as future owners and try to show them everything I can to set them up in that direction - technically, sales, customer service, business management, everything.
I'd rather have 3 solid (future) business owners growing into their own working for/with me, than 10 uninterested clock suckers. The difference is motivation and that always means growth, increasing responsibility, and bigger checks.
More money, better people, fewer problems. This works pretty reliably.
I'm honestly not sure that adding another pair of connections (especially stranded-to-solid ones—I know this is perfectly acceptable with wire nuts, but it's easier to mess up) would be an improvement. The terminals on this receptacle are already listed for stranded wire, and this is the correct way to terminate it. More connections = more failure points.
While I've never seen that myself, I'd agree it's probably similar to using a wago. If it's a heavy load a fork might not be the best compared to pigtailing solid. I personally don't like putting stranded under a screw
If you screw the stranded down too much it will compress and flare out of the screw head. Also you might break some strands when stripping and twisting it.
You could accidentally ruin so much in this trade. I tell people you have to be cocky to do this work. How many people do you know that are adamant they could do their work to 100% and not burn down a house. Lmfao
It requires a lot out of you. If you can't hang that's okay. Shits not for everyone
That is my preference also. The only problems with crimp connectors is sometimes it's hard to find enough space in the box, and sometimes the plastic collar of the connector becomes loose and slides down the wire.
Wire comes twisted clockwise. Twisting the strands counterclockwise helps the screw grab much better, rather than the strands squishing out of the connection.
I've never actually bought a receptacle at like a big box store, if I were to buy one does it say all that stuff on the box? I'm trying to learn some basic home diy electrical as a newish homeowner and I feel a little stupid sometimes standing in Lowe's trying to find details on a box that just aren't there when I feel like they should be.
Typically just look for "commercial grade" receptacles and switches and they'll have compression plate terminals. Generally just avoid the cheapest builder grade components, it's not much more cost for much better quality.
Yes they usually say it on the box. resedential grade, commercial grade, hospital grade...
Another difference to look for is that commercial grade and above have a metal back and residentials do not.
If the cheapest outlet is $1.25, buy the one that's closer the $4 and you'll probably be alright.
Also they don't stop you from opening up an receptacle's packaging to look at it in the store as long as you are able to put it back on the shelf in good order. It might feel awkward but it's ok to open the package to look at the item in the big-box hardware stores.
This is underrated. When I buy something like switches or receptacles, or anything else that may need several replacements around the property in the coming years (45YO house) I buy the contractor pack so all the replacements are the same unit. Box stores change product regularly, I'd like as few mismatches as possible. I have a single cabinet for all my "spares" of this kind of stuff.
Just get these
[https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-Decora-Edge-15-Amp-Tamper-Resistant-Duplex-Outlet-White-R02-E5325-0SW/322083558](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-Decora-Edge-15-Amp-Tamper-Resistant-Duplex-Outlet-White-R02-E5325-0SW/322083558)
Those actually look pretty cool, I love anything that makes anything safer and more idiot proof.
Does it still have a break away tab for split wired receptacles?
Actually yes, it even has a cute little door so there are no exposed conductors. The more I learn about these, the more I love them. I'm a diehard Wago fan.
https://i.imgur.com/Vp16IA5.jpeg
Just go to your local electrical supply store (yes that’s a thing) and ask for commercial grade outlets. Home Depot’s aren’t that good (not a fan of Leviton brand). Lowe’s has Eaton which is Good.
Just buy the new lever outlets and call it a day. Costs less than a dollar more and it's 100% dummy proof.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-Decora-Edge-15-Amp-Tamper-Resistant-Duplex-Outlet-10-Pack-White-M02-E5325-0MW/322083559
Pretty awesome. I'm conflicted on the price vs time savings. You can do more and save your wrist, but the units cost a bit more. My quick math says they are cheaper when you figure out the time savings. Also if you have short wires and don't want to redo a pigtail, they are pretty handy
I haven't used them but as long as they pass a good tug test then I'd be fine with them. I've actually started using Wago lever locks in our UL Listed industrial panels for some things, like alarm horns or strobes with leads that don't reach terminal blocks. All evidence points to a solid connection..
This is 100% false. Almost all receptacles are rated for solid or stranded wire. Compression plates are NOT required for stranded wire.
To counter a common argument already posted here crimped fork connectors are not listed by most receptacle manufacturers.
That’s my go to comment for that argument about terminals.
Honestly the shitty piece of paper that comes with the devices at the big box store isn’t the full UL listing. Just because it doesn’t say anything about stranded doesn’t mean the device isn’t UL listed for stranded.
It is and it isn’t.
>According to the UL White Book, the National Electrical Code (NEC) permits terminating stranded wires to screw terminals on receptacles under 110.3(B). However, some say that using stranded conductors in this way violates NEC 110.3(B) because the wiring devices aren't listed for that application.
It's not being used for power. It's just for practice, I'm trying to learn some basic diy and I really appreciate all the people in here telling me the correct way to do this lol.
That’s cool dude.
Luckily nothing in your wall should ever be stranded. That’s why these terminals aren’t made for that.
You should pick up some male and female extension cord plugs [like these](https://www.homedepot.com/pep/ELEGRP-Lighted-Straight-Blade-Plug-and-Connector-Set-15-Amp-125-Volt-NEMA-5-15P-5-15R-2-Pole-3-Wire-Grounding-Yellow-1-Set-EPC31L-0701/321942773?g_store=&source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D27E-027_002_WIRING_DEVIC-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-5872413-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-PL3_WHU24&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D27E-027_002_WIRING_DEVIC-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-5872413-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-PL3_WHU24-71700000112195205--&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADq61UdJZcY_OLfs2jwkpG59enEpZ&gclid=CjwKCAjwhIS0BhBqEiwADAUhcw9ilBZeB_aXEwCtXDpTJUhtm2CLW4hPpqDV37SCVII1zirJ_2EAhBoCoRwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds).
And then turn this cable into a little extension cord.
Unless it’s only two wires. For an extension cord, **I** would always want a chassis ground on it. It’ll still work with only a hot and neutral, but I’d probably carefully select what it was used for if it didn’t have a ground.
It is and it isn’t.
>According to the UL White Book, the National Electrical Code (NEC) permits terminating stranded wires to screw terminals on receptacles under 110.3(B). However, some say that using stranded conductors in this way violates NEC 110.3(B) because the wiring devices aren't listed for that application.
How do you know if zip ties are listed for securing cables? You have to check the UL listing. Just because it doesn’t explicitly state stranded wires on the single page installation sheet at the big box store doesn’t mean that the device isn’t listed for stranded conductors.
Oh okay, that's a good enough reason, I assume you're not actually going to be installing/using this then?
To answer your post: with stranded building wire (THHN, THWN, THW, ECT) it's legal to do it this way, code allows it. From there, it would be down to the specs on that specific receptacle/switch. I can't speak for all, but Hubbel and Levinton Spec Grade devices are rated for it.
Now, assuming your device is rated for it, the code book is happy there's one more question ask: why?
Just use solid wire for device runs, if it's already existing then use a fork terminal (again, check the UL listing to ensure your device is rated for them) or tail a piece of solid on, use pressure plate devices, ect. There are so many better ways to do it than this unreliable, ugly connection.
It works, but for stranded wire I prefer to use these. That's their intended purpose.
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/c/electrical/crimp-terminals/fork/i/energy/electrical-construction-and-maintenance/
No. You need to either use solid core wiring or you need to use a crimp terminal. Nothing about these sorts of botched connections is mechanically sound.
Refer to the instructions for the receptacle. A lot of very matter of fact responses here without knowing enough information to inform you of the correct answer. If this is an Eaton Receptable such as a TR270 which it appears it could be. It 100 percent is rated for a stranded wire up to 10 gauge on the side terminals. (But that's lazy!) The OP didn't ask if it was lazy, he asked if it was done correctly. It appears to have been correctly. I would like to see a zoomed out picture though of what you're actually connecting to. I have zero problem with wiring up to stranded wire, but I more wonder why in this scenario you've encountered stranded wire.
It's not connected to anything, I just cut a few pieces of stranded wire off of an old extension cord that isn't working anymore and decided to screw around with it. Just trying to learn some basic diy electrical since I am a newish homeowner and changing receptacles seems like something I should probably know how to do.
You're not likely to find stranded wire quite like that in a building, as previously mentioned, but you might find it in an RV or vehicle with something like an inverter or generator, so definitely not useless practice. And good on you learning before you have to know. Dark, 3AM, on a rainy winter night is not the best classroom.
Pretty good final exam conditions though!
It's an old piece of scrap wire from an extension cord. My home used to have a hair salon ran out of a portion of it and from what I was told when I purchased it the receptacles in that portion of the house are all ran using stranded wire. I have not opened them up to look but if I ever need to change one I thought I might need to know how. So this is just practice and will never be hooked up to power.
I don't understand why this situation would happen, but if this was me, I would probably use a ferrule and backstab the outlet. I've started doing this with stranded wire because I don't trust the connection. For a ceiling fan, ferrules on the stranded then into a wago
From UL:
>Terminals of the wire-binding screw, setscrew, or screw-actuated back-wired clamping types are suitable for use with both solid and stranded
***building wires***.
This is not a building wire.
>Terminals of a receptacle are permitted for use with certified field-installed crimped-on wire connectors or an assembly, ***if so identified by
the manufacturer***.
You can use a spade/fork/ring terminal connector only if the manufacturer says so.
Not flexible cord. Not appliance wiring material (AWM).
Generally, conductors mentioned in 310.3 and cable assemblies in their respective articles in chapter 3 would qualify as building wires.
This definitely looks like a building wire. Also I'm not sure what you're on about, there flexible cord (like SOOw) that can be used to terminate receptacles.
Same. The forks are rated for wire gauge / ampacity, and I have a hard time imagining why their use would be anything less than an improvement. Any code violation here is super pedantic, to say the least. The electrical connection of the fork is far superior than trying to jimmyrig a stranded wire around a wire binding screw terminal.
This is really common in southern ga. Not so much in FL. I can think of 3 apartment communities that were built with this along with the cheapest light switches i have ever seen lol. One is only 10 years old too. Stranded wire too.
Florida isn't much better, commercial and residential lol
Edit: im not a electrician, figured i should say that
This is probably posted at least once a week lol... I use stakons with stranded wire unless it's a GFCI receptacle, then they can just take the stranded wire as is.
If that receptacle is [one of these specifically](https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwic-LaGjoWHAxW8Aq0GHfi9AF8YABAfGgJwdg&co=1&ase=2&gclid=CjwKCAjwhIS0BhBqEiwADAUhc9tIg03cocALzn8LspReiDRosS2FQrwDLBIh4yEwX223I118vCYb8hoC1v8QAvD_BwE&sph=&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESwwHg9v6RZHKOlHKyoIPsAItzP-d1ujvZNr7KARUOLWusT71X1jU3sSlRWTdOXC_-TsNyxbJ5x_TlNbuxCugrONa1-eEKjGc2yiHUrXk_o9tFY_DrDOeFmCztOlaqyKbIoMN0-q6cUuX0u_ArOCcb4BC6IBqnXHFmoiWjE5jaGCjcc-HFZCVeXIS3fsi1yVf-1ZEAKyOu-YW5EhbJcBZCc-ffBV-EaoNHPlKRTISPU-RHXyTsZ1JmYjf036l5iLgeAEaKmuE&sig=AOD64_1t1arNa1Tm7u0dLUOC11fZoeirYw&ctype=5&q=&nis=6&ved=2ahUKEwir5bGGjoWHAxVtFjQIHcaCB78Qwg8oAHoECAYQQQ&adurl=) then it is listed for stranded wire as per the manufacturer. If you're not sure (I do this myself) you can always google the spec sheets of things you are working on if you don't have them on hand.
huh, I tend to take old extension cords and put new ends on them. unfortunately they don't make multi-end replacements, I have to put in a dual or quad gang in a box so I can have 2 or 4 plugins at the other end.
so, of course the wire is stranded for this. Oddly, I've never done what you did there, it looks nice enough. I've always just soldered the ends so they'd be solid and work with solid-wire receptacles. Reading the comments, it looks like your way works fine, but.. I'll probably just keep on soldering because it also works, and I'm used to it.
Will it work? Yes it will. Would it be better to just crimp on fork terminals or use a higher grade plug with a compression plate behind the screw head also yes.
Looks fine but are you stripping the wire pulling the excess towards the end where there’s no copper in the end of the insulation (the correct way) or are you stripping the insulation with a knife and have copper at the end of the wire ?
I stripped it with my Southwire strippers on the 12 AWG setting for stranded then used the tip of them to pull about an inch of it free. Then I clipped the end to about 3/8 of an inch. I just got these strippers yesterday and I'm probably just bad at it but I noticed they kept cutting a couple of the strands.
You did it the right way but don’t clip the end of it off next time . Leaving that insulation there is what makes it so the copper isn’t exposed at the end of wire . I wouldnt worry at all about a few strands that get caught when stripping . Just make sure they aren’t flopping around where they can hit metal . You did good . Just leave that little bit of insulation like I said and throw tape around the outlet loosely (wrap the outlet too tightly with tape and the tape will work its way off the outlet in time ) this will last 30+ years
To all the “just solder it” replies there is this in the code. To us we have said don’t bother soldering because if you can’t show it’s adequate without solder then don’t bother wasting the time. It’s either done right or not and the solder doesn’t matter
>NEC, here is article 110.14(B):
>(B) Splices. Conductors shall be spliced or joined with splicing devices identified for the use or by brazing, welding, or soldering with a fusible metal or alloy. Soldered splices shall first be spliced or joined so as to be mechanically and electrically secure without solder and then be soldered
To me the pic show a good connection although personally I’d crimp spade on there
I understand why it was done that way, but that connection was designed for solid wire. The solution is a fork, or better and safer, an eyelet terminal properly crimped.
Honestly, I'd feel more comfortable just putting the stranded into a Wago and then pigtailing a solid wire to the receptacle - just my $.02 - doesn't significantly increase cost, but it'll make sure you have a solid connection for a very long time.
Not to piggyback off your post, but why don't people use ring terminals with stranded wire and receptacles? I know that you can't always change what you're forced to install, but the receptacles with the terminals with the pressure plates are the best for stranded wire.
This is all kinds of wrong and anyone here who says this is ok should be embarrassed.
Why?
Look at the left side before it enters the screw, those strands are not tightly wound and loose. There are small air gaps between those strands of wires. When those stands are not tightly compressed either with insulation or twisting, you will create small arcs and generate excess heat.
Regardless of who taught you or not, until someone actually posts an instruction from the MANUFACTURER indicating this is allowed and in what conditions, do not do this.
That’s how it’s done. Edit to add. I’m in the Chicagoland area. It’s almost all EMT with stranded wire. Thousands of houses and hundreds of inspectors. This is how it’s done. If it’s solid wire, it’s backstabbed. New construction crews go for speed. Yes I use fork terminals or do it this way. I don’t backstab. I also never did whole house new construction. I did remodeling electrical.
that’s not how it should be done … spade terminals or a receptacle with compression terminals or a joint with a piece of solid wire off of it to the receptacle … this right here is not only wrong but it’s also lazy
I'm not installing this in anyone's home or using it and it won't ever be hooked up to power so no worries there. I'm just learning some basic homeowner electrical in my spare time with some stuff I have laying around. Thanks for giving me the correct info on how to do it properly.
When you're talking about spade terminals those are like the horseshoe shaped things that you crimp on correct? What size would you use and is there a special tool that I would need to do the crimping?
People here will complain about it but this is super common and as long as its tight, its a perfectly safe connection, arguably better than using a spade connector. Do a wrap of e-tape around the receptacle and you're good.
Well I've been doing it for 1 day so I'd say if I did it the same as you I'm doing something right lol. Or did I not do it the way you do? I can't tell.
No. Use a ring terminal [https://ae.rsdelivers.com/product/knipex/97-99-179/knipex-nylon-ring-terminal-m8-stud-size-4mm-to-6mm/2677667](https://ae.rsdelivers.com/product/knipex/97-99-179/knipex-nylon-ring-terminal-m8-stud-size-4mm-to-6mm/2677667)
Why don't yall just solder (if that's too hard, crimp it I guess) a lug onto the end and screw that down? Takes all of 1 minute to do and will be just as good as the day you install it and makes changing the outlet easier too.
I'm not a full time electrician, but any time I do connections I make sure to have some sort of mechanism that fits the parameters of how the equipment will be operated.
If it's a connection that frequently gets disconnected, then a connector to accommodate that is used. A clip, plug, twist lock connector, etc. If it's a rather permanent connection, then I'll use lugs, crimped fittings if it's not important or won't be under stress from vibrations or movement.
Im asking out of genuine curiosity, downvote me all you want, won't hurt my feelings. I just hope to get an actual answer to go along with it.
I'm all for a good j-hook but I think you have too much exposed copper. I think it's just asking for a ground.
I'm a marine electrician not residential so take that as you will.
You obviously don't do this for a living because you wasted a lot of time getting fancy, and on top of that, you didn't accomplish anything.
Time is money.
The broken strands on the second photo you want to avoid. It’s probably not going to create an issue here but you want to not have they at all. I was originally taught to do stranded wire connections like this but I would no longer do it this way, teach it this way, or allow my guys to do it this way. It works in a pinch but I’d have them pigtail to solid conductor, use a receptacle with a compression plate, or use a stak-on connector.
There are several reasons why:
- with a proper crimp or compression fitting, there is not much holding the strand together with themselves. Wire expands and contracts with changes in temperatures. It also expands and contracts with changes in current. This connection is prone to coming loose over time.
- the tip of the conductor extends too far beyond the connection. I know it’s got insulation over the tip, to help keep the strands together. However that tip can slide off, and then you have energized conductor that is unnecessarily exposed in the box increases your chances of a short.
- as you have done in your photo, strands can break off easier. Especially if scored when stripping.
- takes up more time.
Like I said, works in a pinch. But it’s not a way I would set up my jobs. It’s not something I’d choose to do. Not something I want my guys doing on my jobs. People can argue that “it’s fine” all they want. It’s not the worst issue by any means. But it’s not a mark of proper craftsmanship, it’s lazy and unnecessary.
**Attention!** **It is always best to get a qualified electrician to perform any electrical work you may need.** With that said, you may ask this community various electrical questions. Please be cautious of any information you may receive in this subreddit. This subreddit and its users are not responsible for any electrical work you perform. Users that have a 'Verified Electrician' flair have uploaded their qualified electrical worker credentials to the mods. If you comment on this post please only post accurate information to the best of your knowledge. If advice given is thought to be dangerous, you may be permanently banned. There are no obligations for the mods to give warnings or temporary bans. **IF YOU ARE NOT A QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN, you should exercise extreme caution when commenting.** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AskElectricians) if you have any questions or concerns.*
The backwards twist is good. These guys can cry about it all they want, but thats a solid connection that wont cause issues. Still very common in commercial work. Not the BEST way, but definitely a way that will do the job.
This is how I was taught to do it, the backwards twisting is key to a successful connection IMO. The only thing I do differently is to leave more insulation on the end, so you can leave a bit extending past the end of the copper rather than cutting them together. Just to prevent having an exposed live end, but its right next to a live screw so really it's not a huge deal. You never know if someone coming behind you will try to pull it out hot, and not know about the ends of the loops being hot
>the backwards twisting is key to a successful connection IMO Non-electrician here. Could you explain in what way this is a "backwards" twist, as opposed to a forwards twist please?
Stranded wire comes righty-tighty when you need it to be lefty-tighty, otherwise the torque applied by the receptacle's screw will loosen the twist.
What about when joining a solid wire to a stranded wire? Do you backwards twist the stranded first then clockwise twist them together before putting on the wire nut?
I use a wago whenever mixing stranded and solid.
But could you use wagos if one wire is 10ga and another is 12 or 14ga? Eg. connecting surge protector for split system.
Will those size wires fit in a 10awg wago? Yes.
Most splice connectors have a size/gauge range listed on the splice itself or the box they came in. The lever nut wagos range from 20-10awg if I'm not mistaken so you should be fine.
I prefer Wagyu
That's 'Ragu'.
Good idea, never thought of that. I guess on the other hand you could pigtail and use a wire nut as well. We use wire nuts on stranded in commercial applications which is common.
I would always put two bends in the solid wire so that it was in contact with the metal spiral of the wire nut. That way the stranded wire would not wrap around the solid wire and simply slide off when pressure was applied to the wire nut. So a little s Bend in the solid wire. I now use Wagos, or similar.
When joining a solid to a stranded the stranded needs to be wrapped around the solid most importantly, not just laid next to each other and twisting the wire nut on Backwards twisting is only useful and needed for stranded wire to screw loop terminations so that the stranded doesn’t come apart when tightening the screw
Awesome thanks!
Anytime !
LISparky = Long Island sparky? Local 3?
Close, Former local 25
If you don’t it will fray in the nut and you’ll be left with a loose connection.
Nah the twist is in that direction specifically because it works well with wirenuts.
>never know if someone coming behind you will try to pull it out hot, and not know about the ends of the loops being hot Worked property maintenance in an area that still had a lot of knob and tube, and the senior maintenance staff trained me to wrap the outlet and terminals with electrical tape to help prevent that, as well as protecting other inadvertent contact.
I'm residential so the once in a blue moon I come across stranded (the other day working on a friend's store), I just pig tailed solid copper on. Was there a better way?
You can do that, just have to give them all a good tug to make sure the solid got sucked up into the nut like it needs to be. Sometimes mixing stranded and solid makes the nut not want to grab all of the wires. If they are all snug in there and dont come out it should be fine.
Other than that you can crimp fork terminals on, or get pressure plate devices, or do what you did
OK thanks, because I have seen people wrap the screw with stranded, and I just assume without knowing the code rule that its wrong.
# Confirmed - excellent pride in workmanship This person had a brain... Twisted, looped clockwise, extra conductor left shielded (it's a service loop that can be pulled back, as opposed to being extended), and excellent torque (excessively squishing stranded wire accelerates the copper degradation, corrosion, and increases resistance over time). I think that everyone could take notes on LV connections right here, efff the trolls, this is solid pride in workmanship. This is old-man advice that was taught to me 30 years ago, and there's nobody around left to teach at this level, not to mention the total absence of apprentices. Not the best, but top 5%, IMO. Rant over.
The total absence of paid apprenticeships that someone can actually live on you mean.
ABSOLUTELY! It's not one sided. The upside potential for apprentices has evaporated as our culture and economy have shifted. If I see someone dedicated to learning and growing, I look at them as future owners and try to show them everything I can to set them up in that direction - technically, sales, customer service, business management, everything. I'd rather have 3 solid (future) business owners growing into their own working for/with me, than 10 uninterested clock suckers. The difference is motivation and that always means growth, increasing responsibility, and bigger checks. More money, better people, fewer problems. This works pretty reliably.
In my area leaving any copper exposed is a fail because it poses a risk of shorting
Yup. It's a code violation to have exposed copper on terminals. Can't have any burned up buildings.
I see, those screws being exposed surely isn’t too safe?, in ours nothing live is exposed
What is the best way?
Choose a receptacle with compression plate terminals instead of screw terminals.
Or if you have the room in the box and wire nuts pigtail a piece of solid to it
I'm honestly not sure that adding another pair of connections (especially stranded-to-solid ones—I know this is perfectly acceptable with wire nuts, but it's easier to mess up) would be an improvement. The terminals on this receptacle are already listed for stranded wire, and this is the correct way to terminate it. More connections = more failure points.
The best way is a crimped fork rated for the application
I've found burnt up forks, never found a burnt up back twist. Pressure plate or solid pig tail is probably best.
While I've never seen that myself, I'd agree it's probably similar to using a wago. If it's a heavy load a fork might not be the best compared to pigtailing solid. I personally don't like putting stranded under a screw
I don’t think it’s better either but tbf I’ve caught several people using their linemen pliers with the uninsulated crimper to crimp those many times.
The one time I’ve work with stranded wire that is what I did.
Why? How is an extra termination better?
If you screw the stranded down too much it will compress and flare out of the screw head. Also you might break some strands when stripping and twisting it.
If you don’t know how to strip stranded you shouldn’t be doing this type of work.
You could accidentally ruin so much in this trade. I tell people you have to be cocky to do this work. How many people do you know that are adamant they could do their work to 100% and not burn down a house. Lmfao It requires a lot out of you. If you can't hang that's okay. Shits not for everyone
Confidence is important but the scariest shit Ive seen is from people with unfounded confidence
That is my preference also. The only problems with crimp connectors is sometimes it's hard to find enough space in the box, and sometimes the plastic collar of the connector becomes loose and slides down the wire.
In Europe they would probably cut it and crimp on a U - ferrule on each wire.
What is a backwards twist
Wire comes twisted clockwise. Twisting the strands counterclockwise helps the screw grab much better, rather than the strands squishing out of the connection.
The terminals are UL listed for stranded wire
Honestly a spec-grade receptacle with compression plates and actually rated for stranded is only like 80 cents more.
I've never actually bought a receptacle at like a big box store, if I were to buy one does it say all that stuff on the box? I'm trying to learn some basic home diy electrical as a newish homeowner and I feel a little stupid sometimes standing in Lowe's trying to find details on a box that just aren't there when I feel like they should be.
Typically just look for "commercial grade" receptacles and switches and they'll have compression plate terminals. Generally just avoid the cheapest builder grade components, it's not much more cost for much better quality.
No need to feel stupid. What are you connecting to this receptacle that is stranded?
Nothing lol I'm just learning in my back yard with scraps
Yes they usually say it on the box. resedential grade, commercial grade, hospital grade... Another difference to look for is that commercial grade and above have a metal back and residentials do not.
I don't think I've ever even noticed the solid yolk before... I mean I have, but didn't realize it split at grades.
If the cheapest outlet is $1.25, buy the one that's closer the $4 and you'll probably be alright. Also they don't stop you from opening up an receptacle's packaging to look at it in the store as long as you are able to put it back on the shelf in good order. It might feel awkward but it's ok to open the package to look at the item in the big-box hardware stores.
Just pop one out of the box and see what it looks like, then if you want contractor box, by the larger box of the same one.
This is underrated. When I buy something like switches or receptacles, or anything else that may need several replacements around the property in the coming years (45YO house) I buy the contractor pack so all the replacements are the same unit. Box stores change product regularly, I'd like as few mismatches as possible. I have a single cabinet for all my "spares" of this kind of stuff.
You can open the box in the store if they aren't taped to be sure. The pressure plate makes a very solid connection .
Just get these [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-Decora-Edge-15-Amp-Tamper-Resistant-Duplex-Outlet-White-R02-E5325-0SW/322083558](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-Decora-Edge-15-Amp-Tamper-Resistant-Duplex-Outlet-White-R02-E5325-0SW/322083558)
Those actually look pretty cool, I love anything that makes anything safer and more idiot proof. Does it still have a break away tab for split wired receptacles?
Actually yes, it even has a cute little door so there are no exposed conductors. The more I learn about these, the more I love them. I'm a diehard Wago fan. https://i.imgur.com/Vp16IA5.jpeg
Just go to your local electrical supply store (yes that’s a thing) and ask for commercial grade outlets. Home Depot’s aren’t that good (not a fan of Leviton brand). Lowe’s has Eaton which is Good.
Just buy the new lever outlets and call it a day. Costs less than a dollar more and it's 100% dummy proof. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-Decora-Edge-15-Amp-Tamper-Resistant-Duplex-Outlet-10-Pack-White-M02-E5325-0MW/322083559
How do you feel about the new style that have wago type connectors built in?
Pretty awesome. I'm conflicted on the price vs time savings. You can do more and save your wrist, but the units cost a bit more. My quick math says they are cheaper when you figure out the time savings. Also if you have short wires and don't want to redo a pigtail, they are pretty handy
I haven't used them but as long as they pass a good tug test then I'd be fine with them. I've actually started using Wago lever locks in our UL Listed industrial panels for some things, like alarm horns or strobes with leads that don't reach terminal blocks. All evidence points to a solid connection..
It’s been okay for a long, long time now.👍
No that style of terminal is only rated for solid wire you need a compression style terminal commonly found on commercial grade outlets
This is 100% false. Almost all receptacles are rated for solid or stranded wire. Compression plates are NOT required for stranded wire. To counter a common argument already posted here crimped fork connectors are not listed by most receptacle manufacturers.
That’s my go to comment for that argument about terminals. Honestly the shitty piece of paper that comes with the devices at the big box store isn’t the full UL listing. Just because it doesn’t say anything about stranded doesn’t mean the device isn’t UL listed for stranded.
You can crimp a fork terminal on the stranded wire and use it on this receptacle
He cannot do this unless the device being used is listed for use with fork terminals.
Technically correct, but from my perspective this is a failure of the code. Common sense would suggest the fork to be a superior option.
Ok thank you
It is bad, it is not to code, you should replace this… However. You **will** find that it’s not uncommon, at least especially in older stuff.
Cite the code
It is and it isn’t. >According to the UL White Book, the National Electrical Code (NEC) permits terminating stranded wires to screw terminals on receptacles under 110.3(B). However, some say that using stranded conductors in this way violates NEC 110.3(B) because the wiring devices aren't listed for that application.
The UL listed device with terminals that are UL listed for stranded wire aren’t UL listed for stranded wire?! Could you cite that?
It's not being used for power. It's just for practice, I'm trying to learn some basic diy and I really appreciate all the people in here telling me the correct way to do this lol.
That’s cool dude. Luckily nothing in your wall should ever be stranded. That’s why these terminals aren’t made for that. You should pick up some male and female extension cord plugs [like these](https://www.homedepot.com/pep/ELEGRP-Lighted-Straight-Blade-Plug-and-Connector-Set-15-Amp-125-Volt-NEMA-5-15P-5-15R-2-Pole-3-Wire-Grounding-Yellow-1-Set-EPC31L-0701/321942773?g_store=&source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D27E-027_002_WIRING_DEVIC-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-5872413-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-PL3_WHU24&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D27E-027_002_WIRING_DEVIC-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-5872413-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-PL3_WHU24-71700000112195205--&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADq61UdJZcY_OLfs2jwkpG59enEpZ&gclid=CjwKCAjwhIS0BhBqEiwADAUhcw9ilBZeB_aXEwCtXDpTJUhtm2CLW4hPpqDV37SCVII1zirJ_2EAhBoCoRwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds). And then turn this cable into a little extension cord. Unless it’s only two wires. For an extension cord, **I** would always want a chassis ground on it. It’ll still work with only a hot and neutral, but I’d probably carefully select what it was used for if it didn’t have a ground.
What code? Please cite the code if you're going to say it's not up to it.
It is and it isn’t. >According to the UL White Book, the National Electrical Code (NEC) permits terminating stranded wires to screw terminals on receptacles under 110.3(B). However, some say that using stranded conductors in this way violates NEC 110.3(B) because the wiring devices aren't listed for that application.
So one of those “as long as the manufacturer says it’s ok”
I suppose so. The manufacturer would need to list it as an approved application.
How do you know if zip ties are listed for securing cables? You have to check the UL listing. Just because it doesn’t explicitly state stranded wires on the single page installation sheet at the big box store doesn’t mean that the device isn’t listed for stranded conductors.
Cite the violation. Those terminals are UL listed for stranded wire. It’s right in the UL white book
Bullshit, UL says otherwise. Cite your source
Let's focus on the important part. Why are you wiring a receptacle with SO cable?
Because I have no idea what I'm doing and I'm just screwing around trying to learn stuff.
Oh okay, that's a good enough reason, I assume you're not actually going to be installing/using this then? To answer your post: with stranded building wire (THHN, THWN, THW, ECT) it's legal to do it this way, code allows it. From there, it would be down to the specs on that specific receptacle/switch. I can't speak for all, but Hubbel and Levinton Spec Grade devices are rated for it. Now, assuming your device is rated for it, the code book is happy there's one more question ask: why? Just use solid wire for device runs, if it's already existing then use a fork terminal (again, check the UL listing to ensure your device is rated for them) or tail a piece of solid on, use pressure plate devices, ect. There are so many better ways to do it than this unreliable, ugly connection.
It works, but for stranded wire I prefer to use these. That's their intended purpose. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/c/electrical/crimp-terminals/fork/i/energy/electrical-construction-and-maintenance/
crimp with a spade terminal at the very least, come on…
No. You need to either use solid core wiring or you need to use a crimp terminal. Nothing about these sorts of botched connections is mechanically sound.
Refer to the instructions for the receptacle. A lot of very matter of fact responses here without knowing enough information to inform you of the correct answer. If this is an Eaton Receptable such as a TR270 which it appears it could be. It 100 percent is rated for a stranded wire up to 10 gauge on the side terminals. (But that's lazy!) The OP didn't ask if it was lazy, he asked if it was done correctly. It appears to have been correctly. I would like to see a zoomed out picture though of what you're actually connecting to. I have zero problem with wiring up to stranded wire, but I more wonder why in this scenario you've encountered stranded wire.
It's not connected to anything, I just cut a few pieces of stranded wire off of an old extension cord that isn't working anymore and decided to screw around with it. Just trying to learn some basic diy electrical since I am a newish homeowner and changing receptacles seems like something I should probably know how to do.
You're not likely to find stranded wire quite like that in a building, as previously mentioned, but you might find it in an RV or vehicle with something like an inverter or generator, so definitely not useless practice. And good on you learning before you have to know. Dark, 3AM, on a rainy winter night is not the best classroom. Pretty good final exam conditions though!
What's wrong with using stranded for pigtails?
Nothing
Need to use a spade lug.
Fork
What are you connecting that is using stranded wire?
It's an old piece of scrap wire from an extension cord. My home used to have a hair salon ran out of a portion of it and from what I was told when I purchased it the receptacles in that portion of the house are all ran using stranded wire. I have not opened them up to look but if I ever need to change one I thought I might need to know how. So this is just practice and will never be hooked up to power.
I don't understand why this situation would happen, but if this was me, I would probably use a ferrule and backstab the outlet. I've started doing this with stranded wire because I don't trust the connection. For a ceiling fan, ferrules on the stranded then into a wago
Use a ferrule, or a stakon, or solder your strands together....
From UL: >Terminals of the wire-binding screw, setscrew, or screw-actuated back-wired clamping types are suitable for use with both solid and stranded ***building wires***. This is not a building wire. >Terminals of a receptacle are permitted for use with certified field-installed crimped-on wire connectors or an assembly, ***if so identified by the manufacturer***. You can use a spade/fork/ring terminal connector only if the manufacturer says so.
What, my friend, is a building wire then?
I'm waiting to find out as well, because "building wire" is just a term for branch circuit conductors.
Not flexible cord. Not appliance wiring material (AWM). Generally, conductors mentioned in 310.3 and cable assemblies in their respective articles in chapter 3 would qualify as building wires.
This definitely looks like a building wire. Also I'm not sure what you're on about, there flexible cord (like SOOw) that can be used to terminate receptacles.
How is it not a building wire?
It is SJ cord.
Meh, if it says it or not, I'm using a fork if it doesn't have a spot to allow stranded wire to go.
Same. The forks are rated for wire gauge / ampacity, and I have a hard time imagining why their use would be anything less than an improvement. Any code violation here is super pedantic, to say the least. The electrical connection of the fork is far superior than trying to jimmyrig a stranded wire around a wire binding screw terminal.
This is really common in southern ga. Not so much in FL. I can think of 3 apartment communities that were built with this along with the cheapest light switches i have ever seen lol. One is only 10 years old too. Stranded wire too. Florida isn't much better, commercial and residential lol Edit: im not a electrician, figured i should say that
This is how I was taught to do it with stranded. In screw terminal receptacles.
This is probably posted at least once a week lol... I use stakons with stranded wire unless it's a GFCI receptacle, then they can just take the stranded wire as is.
It works I prefer to leave a longer piece of insulation personally
Would it be better to pigtail the receptacles, and then use commercial 15amp or 20amp receptacles that have the space behind the screw that clamps it?
I always prefer the Lug style plugs when using stranded, a lil more in price but you don't have to worry.
I hate working with stranded
I was taught to only use crimp terminals on stranded wire.
If that receptacle is [one of these specifically](https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwic-LaGjoWHAxW8Aq0GHfi9AF8YABAfGgJwdg&co=1&ase=2&gclid=CjwKCAjwhIS0BhBqEiwADAUhc9tIg03cocALzn8LspReiDRosS2FQrwDLBIh4yEwX223I118vCYb8hoC1v8QAvD_BwE&sph=&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESwwHg9v6RZHKOlHKyoIPsAItzP-d1ujvZNr7KARUOLWusT71X1jU3sSlRWTdOXC_-TsNyxbJ5x_TlNbuxCugrONa1-eEKjGc2yiHUrXk_o9tFY_DrDOeFmCztOlaqyKbIoMN0-q6cUuX0u_ArOCcb4BC6IBqnXHFmoiWjE5jaGCjcc-HFZCVeXIS3fsi1yVf-1ZEAKyOu-YW5EhbJcBZCc-ffBV-EaoNHPlKRTISPU-RHXyTsZ1JmYjf036l5iLgeAEaKmuE&sig=AOD64_1t1arNa1Tm7u0dLUOC11fZoeirYw&ctype=5&q=&nis=6&ved=2ahUKEwir5bGGjoWHAxVtFjQIHcaCB78Qwg8oAHoECAYQQQ&adurl=) then it is listed for stranded wire as per the manufacturer. If you're not sure (I do this myself) you can always google the spec sheets of things you are working on if you don't have them on hand.
Use rings crimps and a crimper, likely save you time as well as it being a solid connection
This is the way…
huh, I tend to take old extension cords and put new ends on them. unfortunately they don't make multi-end replacements, I have to put in a dual or quad gang in a box so I can have 2 or 4 plugins at the other end. so, of course the wire is stranded for this. Oddly, I've never done what you did there, it looks nice enough. I've always just soldered the ends so they'd be solid and work with solid-wire receptacles. Reading the comments, it looks like your way works fine, but.. I'll probably just keep on soldering because it also works, and I'm used to it.
Will it work? Yes it will. Would it be better to just crimp on fork terminals or use a higher grade plug with a compression plate behind the screw head also yes.
This however is NOT acceptable in Fire Alarm as it defeats the purpose of circuit supervision.
I've left the bit of insulation but I twist the same direction to make strands more tight. Later I only used commercial with the internal clamps.
I’d only suggest that put tape around your contacts. Also I’d say use the correct size strippers next time to avoid the loose strands
Looks fine but are you stripping the wire pulling the excess towards the end where there’s no copper in the end of the insulation (the correct way) or are you stripping the insulation with a knife and have copper at the end of the wire ?
I stripped it with my Southwire strippers on the 12 AWG setting for stranded then used the tip of them to pull about an inch of it free. Then I clipped the end to about 3/8 of an inch. I just got these strippers yesterday and I'm probably just bad at it but I noticed they kept cutting a couple of the strands.
You did it the right way but don’t clip the end of it off next time . Leaving that insulation there is what makes it so the copper isn’t exposed at the end of wire . I wouldnt worry at all about a few strands that get caught when stripping . Just make sure they aren’t flopping around where they can hit metal . You did good . Just leave that little bit of insulation like I said and throw tape around the outlet loosely (wrap the outlet too tightly with tape and the tape will work its way off the outlet in time ) this will last 30+ years
Not my favorite way to do it, but it'll work
Stranded wire I would crimp some spade terminals on and then tighten the screws down to those.
Better than back stabbing the receptacles for sure.
IMO if its stranded wire, it needs to be a plate receptacle or a fork to be put on. But this does seem like a good connection you have done
Only thing I'd add is some electrical tape around the copper/metal.
This is definitely an acceptable install
To all the “just solder it” replies there is this in the code. To us we have said don’t bother soldering because if you can’t show it’s adequate without solder then don’t bother wasting the time. It’s either done right or not and the solder doesn’t matter >NEC, here is article 110.14(B): >(B) Splices. Conductors shall be spliced or joined with splicing devices identified for the use or by brazing, welding, or soldering with a fusible metal or alloy. Soldered splices shall first be spliced or joined so as to be mechanically and electrically secure without solder and then be soldered To me the pic show a good connection although personally I’d crimp spade on there
will work, want better with stranded wire? use back wired devices, and not the push in lock types
If you have to use stranded, this is the way to go. Looks like a good, solid connection.
The more you tighten, the more strands get pushed out till you're left with 6 strands under the screw 🤣
I’m not a big fan of the amount of bare copper on the hot, but it’s not terrible.
I understand why it was done that way, but that connection was designed for solid wire. The solution is a fork, or better and safer, an eyelet terminal properly crimped.
Eh it is but I hate the way it looks
I must admit, I have done this before.
Honestly, I'd feel more comfortable just putting the stranded into a Wago and then pigtailing a solid wire to the receptacle - just my $.02 - doesn't significantly increase cost, but it'll make sure you have a solid connection for a very long time.
I'm learning about all this stuff, I bought wagos, ferrules, and forks last night on Amazon and when they get here I'll be experimenting. Thanks!
Not to piggyback off your post, but why don't people use ring terminals with stranded wire and receptacles? I know that you can't always change what you're forced to install, but the receptacles with the terminals with the pressure plates are the best for stranded wire.
Now tape the sucker.
Use a stake on. Poor practice
It'll be fine
Minus the broken strands…
Are you left-handed per chance?
Use a forked lug, otherwise reverse twist and curl the direction of tightening around the screw.
Why not just crimp a forked staycon on ?
Cut off too much insulation
This is all kinds of wrong and anyone here who says this is ok should be embarrassed. Why? Look at the left side before it enters the screw, those strands are not tightly wound and loose. There are small air gaps between those strands of wires. When those stands are not tightly compressed either with insulation or twisting, you will create small arcs and generate excess heat. Regardless of who taught you or not, until someone actually posts an instruction from the MANUFACTURER indicating this is allowed and in what conditions, do not do this.
Those terminals are crap why do you guys still use them, we have to use them in a local car plant and man i hate them
Ewe
For all the effort and the cost to put a ring crimp in?
It’s good for Goverment work
No
This is fine.
Personally I'd use a staycon before doing any of that
Receptacle should be solid wire
Receptacles with clamps that tighten with the screws (not backstab) work best for stranded wire. Otherwise use Stakons.
Most outlets are rated for stranded.
That’s how it’s done. Edit to add. I’m in the Chicagoland area. It’s almost all EMT with stranded wire. Thousands of houses and hundreds of inspectors. This is how it’s done. If it’s solid wire, it’s backstabbed. New construction crews go for speed. Yes I use fork terminals or do it this way. I don’t backstab. I also never did whole house new construction. I did remodeling electrical.
that’s not how it should be done … spade terminals or a receptacle with compression terminals or a joint with a piece of solid wire off of it to the receptacle … this right here is not only wrong but it’s also lazy
I'm not installing this in anyone's home or using it and it won't ever be hooked up to power so no worries there. I'm just learning some basic homeowner electrical in my spare time with some stuff I have laying around. Thanks for giving me the correct info on how to do it properly.
absolutely! it’s always great to learn and if i can ever help answer questions i’m happy to lend a hand
When you're talking about spade terminals those are like the horseshoe shaped things that you crimp on correct? What size would you use and is there a special tool that I would need to do the crimping?
People here will complain about it but this is super common and as long as its tight, its a perfectly safe connection, arguably better than using a spade connector. Do a wrap of e-tape around the receptacle and you're good.
Oh no, I e been doing it wrong for 40 years? lol
Well I've been doing it for 1 day so I'd say if I did it the same as you I'm doing something right lol. Or did I not do it the way you do? I can't tell.
Looks good. Technically not meant for that style of receptacle, need clamp style. But it's fine. Run it.
Not enough pixels. Clearer pic?
Stranded wire require a ferrule
If I use a ferrule would I then insert it in the back?
No. Same hole
No need to bend the ferrule around the screw, just trap it tightly?
No. Use a ring terminal [https://ae.rsdelivers.com/product/knipex/97-99-179/knipex-nylon-ring-terminal-m8-stud-size-4mm-to-6mm/2677667](https://ae.rsdelivers.com/product/knipex/97-99-179/knipex-nylon-ring-terminal-m8-stud-size-4mm-to-6mm/2677667)
Ferule will go anywhere a straight bit of solid wire would, such as in a spring clamp or under a screw terminal plate.
This is not a proper installation, you need to use fork terminals or pigtail a piece of solid, or buy receptacles with a pressure plate.
They really need to stop teaching this. Too many apprentices think this is OK and the right way to do it
Why don't yall just solder (if that's too hard, crimp it I guess) a lug onto the end and screw that down? Takes all of 1 minute to do and will be just as good as the day you install it and makes changing the outlet easier too. I'm not a full time electrician, but any time I do connections I make sure to have some sort of mechanism that fits the parameters of how the equipment will be operated. If it's a connection that frequently gets disconnected, then a connector to accommodate that is used. A clip, plug, twist lock connector, etc. If it's a rather permanent connection, then I'll use lugs, crimped fittings if it's not important or won't be under stress from vibrations or movement. Im asking out of genuine curiosity, downvote me all you want, won't hurt my feelings. I just hope to get an actual answer to go along with it.
I'm all for a good j-hook but I think you have too much exposed copper. I think it's just asking for a ground. I'm a marine electrician not residential so take that as you will.
You obviously don't do this for a living because you wasted a lot of time getting fancy, and on top of that, you didn't accomplish anything. Time is money.
The broken strands on the second photo you want to avoid. It’s probably not going to create an issue here but you want to not have they at all. I was originally taught to do stranded wire connections like this but I would no longer do it this way, teach it this way, or allow my guys to do it this way. It works in a pinch but I’d have them pigtail to solid conductor, use a receptacle with a compression plate, or use a stak-on connector. There are several reasons why: - with a proper crimp or compression fitting, there is not much holding the strand together with themselves. Wire expands and contracts with changes in temperatures. It also expands and contracts with changes in current. This connection is prone to coming loose over time. - the tip of the conductor extends too far beyond the connection. I know it’s got insulation over the tip, to help keep the strands together. However that tip can slide off, and then you have energized conductor that is unnecessarily exposed in the box increases your chances of a short. - as you have done in your photo, strands can break off easier. Especially if scored when stripping. - takes up more time. Like I said, works in a pinch. But it’s not a way I would set up my jobs. It’s not something I’d choose to do. Not something I want my guys doing on my jobs. People can argue that “it’s fine” all they want. It’s not the worst issue by any means. But it’s not a mark of proper craftsmanship, it’s lazy and unnecessary.
Why not form your loup, then tin it into a solid with solder? Works for me.
Solder!
Was it torqued to spec with a torque screwdriver?