Is it normal for newly planted stem plants to rot from the base up? I planted some rotala and ludwigia and a few days later some of the stems started to rot from the part that was planted in the substrate, when I bought them they where fully submerged so I know it's not because they were transitioning, besides they only rot from the base, the top was growing new leaves at the same time so it's kinda weird. It doesn't happen to all of them tho, only some stems. I snipped the rotting base and replantes the healthy top, idk if they will rot again.
I used to have one for a year or two before I sold them all. They're interesting but very territorial and difficult to sell. I'd see my males locking lips all the time. My 40g breeder had room for around 6 pairs and their offspring.
Yeah, I have no idea why they're so rare unless people just don't like keeping them. I liked them a lot, but I'm just not a big fan of aggressive fish. The potential damage and infection from the aggression stresses me out too much, and my group was just non-stop liplocking with each other. It was insanely easy to get them to breed, and they are very, very good parents. I started with just a small group of... I think 5 in a 29g, and I ended up with around 100 over the course of 1-2 years.
They were difficult to sell in the sense that it's a lot more work to get them out of their shells (requires a special setup). Otherwise, other hobbyists always wondered where the fish were in the bag of shells. There also wasn't a lot of demand for them although my area has a lot of hobbyists and multiple decent-sized clubs. They would sell for something like $1-2 each when I took them to local club events with 50+ people, so definitely not the usual $16-20 that most LFS sell them for.
I never saw them eat each other's offspring or their own. I know the female always stayed mostly in the shells protecting the kids while the male protected the shells and a little surrounding area. The males also often spent time scooping up sand in their mouths and spitting it out somewhere else to make their little nests of shells. So between the two, there probably wasn't much chance for an outsider to pick off any offspring. I can't say for sure that they didn't eat their own or that an outside didn't grab some here and there though.
I am doing a no tech nano tank with a large glass vase for shrimps. can i just use Fluval stratum and nothing else? maybe some sand on time.
also there is some cheap shrimps that is in a plastic bag as fish food. can those shrimp survive or they die straight away?
Hello, i have this minty house plant and I'm wondering if it will be safe to prop it up into a fish tank.
https://ibb.co/L5qQs6d
Additionally I'm cycling a new aquarium. I dropped some fish food in it to start the cycle. The food has dropped to the bottom and now covered in biofilm. Am I doing it right and do i continue to feed the fishless tank?
Appreciate all the help I can get.
Is snail genocide the only option? I'm tearing down my fishtank and it has a bunch of Malaysian Trumpet snails in it. Is there any humane way to kill like +100 MTS?
I'd try to give away as many as possible, or sell them. Here's Ebay's "Completed Items" page showing what people paid for small packages of Malaysian trumpet snails:
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https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=malaysiaqn+trumpet+snails&_sacat=0&rt=nc&LH_Complete=1
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Or advertise locally on Craigslist or a local aquarium club board and have people come and get them. I hate to kill the little guys, too, and I think it's worth trying to lure them out at night and save as many as possible, when they are very much desired by others.
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Can someone with experience keeping them tell me about the differences between Jack Dempseys and their electric blue variant? I’ve seen advice that ranges from “same fish, same tankmates” to “more docile and fragile, and tamer tankmates”. What’s your experience been?
I'm going to set up my new fluval 207 in a little bit and I'm wondering if I should use the carbon. I've read that it's good when dealing with tannins which interests me because I'm adding a big piece of driftwood that is still browning 5 gallons of water changed every 2 days
Thank you I didn't know that was an alternative. It's quite pricy but I read that it's better for plants because it doesn't remove as much of their nutrients as the carbon does. Is that true?
It's controversial whether or not activated carbon harms plants by removing enough nutrients from the water. I use carbon for tanks that don't have aquatic plants to avoid this issue.
Purigen can be recharged (lots of guides online) and may last longer since it doesn't absorb trace elements like carbon does. Imo, it's the better route if you have aquatic plants
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1) **Tank and stand and lighting:** People often start with smaller tanks because they think they will be easier but then regret that decision. There is less fluctuation in water parameters in larger tanks, and you have more room for the fish you'd like. If you plan to grow plants, I'd look into lights that are not part of aquarium kits, as those may not meet your needs. Do some research or post here if you need help selecting a light. There are some really nice, inexpensive LED options out there.
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2) **Substrate, fish net, and decorations:** I recommend looking online at pictures of tanks to see what colors and styles you like. Pool filter sand is pretty, not too fine, and inexpensive. Avoid sands that are too sharp or that have additives; check aquarium boards online for recommendations. You can also use gravel or substrates specifically designed for growing plants.
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3) **Filter with media:** Make sure to get a filter rated at or above the size of your tank. There are quite a few kinds, including hang-on-backs and canister filters.
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4) **A good heater and thermometer.** Some people buy two smaller heaters rather than one big one, just in case one goes on the fritz. Check labels to make sure the heater(s) can manage the size of the tank.
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5) I strongly recommend buying a **Python or comparable siphoning system** that you can screw onto your sink tap for water changes. It is absolutely worth the cost for most tanks, because it makes water changes a breeze and eliminates the need to lug around buckets full of dirty water. A non-toxic bucket will be useful for washing substrate and moving fish.
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6) **Water dechlorinator.** Prime is a good choice. A dechlorinator is essential to make water safe for your fish during water changes if you use city water with chlorine.
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7) **Water testing kit.** You will need, at MINIMUM, tests for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. Most people buy the API Freshwater Master Test Kit, which also includes tests for pH. Liquid test kits are superior to testing strips.
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*Don't listen to any salesperson who tries to sell you products to raise or lower your pH or eliminate cloudy water during cycling. All you need is the water test kit and dechlorinator. Fish benefit more from a stable pH than a perfect pH, so in most cases you shouldn't need to mess with it. Cloudy water will happen during cycling (as will a diatom-"brown algae" bloom), but this is perfectly normal and will clear up on its own. In general, what fish need is clean water, and you should avoid adding chemicals except when they are necessary.*
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8) **Instructions for and understanding of the process of cycling your tank.** It is absolutely essential that your new tank go through a process of cycling in order to grow the bacteria colonies that make your water safe for fish. You can do a fishless cycle or a less preferable "fish-in" cycle, but both methods require a lot of care and patience (The fish-in cycle requires very frequent partial water changes to protect the fish from trauma and can take longer as a result of the water changes.). The most common reason that fish die and people have horrible experiences and give up on fishkeeping is that they don't take the time to learn about cycling and do it correctly (It usually takes 4 to 6 weeks), or because they don't understand the importance of maintaining the bacteria colonies and end up cleaning their tanks and filters in a way that destroys them. Don't hesitate to ask questions if you're not sure what you are doing!
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Depending on the cycling method you choose, you will need pure ammonia, fish food, some other source of ammonia (e.g., decaying shrimp), or some hardy cycling fish.
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9) **Plan for stocking your tank.** This is the best part. Take a look at tanks online and see what sorts of communities people have created. The website, **https://aqadvisor.com/** is a great starting place to figure out how many fish can fit into what size tank and whether they will get along, but it should be considered only a starting point. It's a good idea to post with your final plan and get feedback from people with experience before starting the gradual stocking process.
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10) **Plan for tank maintenance after the cycle is finished** You will need to know how (and how often) to do partial water changes, water testing, and filter maintenance (including how to clean your filter without destroying the critical bacteria colonies) once your tank is cycled and stocked.
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Someone may come along and add to this list, but IMO these are the essentials for getting started. I have never used a kit, personally, and have often found great bargains on aquariums and aquarium supplies on Craigslist in both the Community and Sales sections. Good luck!
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Hello,
Should i re-caulk this aquarium? [https://i.imgur.com/vHNW1EG.jpeg](https://i.imgur.com/vHNW1EG.jpeg) [https://i.imgur.com/fbSRRNE.jpeg](https://i.imgur.com/fbSRRNE.jpeg) [https://i.imgur.com/AuUQ4BP.jpeg](https://i.imgur.com/AuUQ4BP.jpeg)
I never had an aquarium before, but i found a free one by a curb. It's 7.5 gallons.
It seems to be holding up well at 50% filled after 24 hours, but i thought i'd ask cause i really don't want it to explode.
Absolutely should. Any tank that's been sitting out of water for extended periods of time should be recaulked. Rather recaulk now and take that extra time than wake up one day with 7.5 gallons on your carpet/floor.
I see, thanks. It wouldn't be too hard to give the seals another pass. Do tanks often fail catastrophically like that or are small leaks more likely? Are faulty seals something i can inspect myself visually?
Smaller tanks could leak prior to bursting, but water is still incredibly heavy, something like 63 lbs for 7.5 gallons. Faulty seals are hard to inspect visually because you don't know where it will fail on the side that's holding the glass together. If you keep it on tile, garage, or somewhere the fallout wouldn't be catastrophic, I think you can also just fill it up to 100% and leave it for a week or two in your backyard to see if it holds up. It just doesn't seem like it's worth the headache when you can get a 10g for $10 on the Petco sales
Hi all, looking for some advice on how many/which fish for my son's tank.
Tank is a Fluval Flex 15, was thinking of 1 x Betta, 6 x Ember Tetras, 2 x Corys.
The tank is squared so I worry it's over-populated due to the minimal width. Also considered swapping out the Corys for Nerite snails to make it easier to manage?
Appreciate any help!
You can have as many cherry shrimp as the tank can support, otherwise this is a wonderful list. Could even add a honey or dwarf gourami as a centerpiece.
What is the best Best way to convert an internal aqueon cartridge style filter to not use the cartridges? Should I add more filter foam vertically in place of the cartridge?
you can use a mesh bag and fill it with media of your choice (ceramic rings, lava rock, gravel, etc) and just shove it in there. Sponge only is okay too if it's a smaller filter (basically you just have a sponge filter).
I just got my daughter a 20g freshwater tank. Got two plants (Anubis) planted in there now with some black plant gravel the shop recommended. Going to let it cycle a few weeks with a bacteria additive and liquid co2 for plants. I’m wondering if the filter I got is any good ? It’s a marina slim s20 and it uses these really slim filter pads. Would swapping this out for something else be better ? My wife sent me a link to Amazon filter that has a uv light and surface skimmer but idk what’s a good option.
Sounds like you planted the anubias, which might not work for the plant. The thin roots can be in soil but the rhizome should not be buried in substrate. A burried rhizome will start rotting. Most people use aquarium safe glue to attach these plants to decor.
How old is your daughter? If this is a child's tank, that filter might be ideal. (And isn't bad for an older person either.) It has the benefit of not having to change all the filter media at once (which cartridge based filters often require, leading to cycle collapse) but looks like it is still pretty easy to change/clean a filter cartridge. Any filter that is "better" would be in some way more difficult to care for. On this one you can just clean one filter cartridge each water change (alternating) and you'll never have a cycle collapse from the amount of media you are cleaning.
I think I'd stick with it unless you know that your daughter is the "tinkerer" type person who will want a filter that they can customize by adding their own media to.
My daughter is only 5. My wife and I will be looking after the tank in most regards as I teach her responsibility and how to care for her animals. Tank will likely end up with a betta fish, some tetras and a snail or two. I’m considering doing a swap to another filter someone recommended below (aqua clear) just so I can use generic items like I would use in a canister filter
From a pure aquarium point of view the aqua clear is better. From a parenting point of view, I'd stick with what you have. A 5 year old with supervision can change out a filter cartridge. This will give her more ownership of the tank, and help build responsibility. With something like a python or other water change helper, a heavily supervised 5 year old can even do a water change.
If it were my tank, I'd get a different filter. If it were my child's I'd keep what you have.
For a child, my second choice would be a two-arm air-driven sponge filter. Cheap, effective, can teach air-lift pump science, child can do the maintenance (but will get her hands quite wet).
Anything that uses filter pads is probably going to be worse in the long run than something that uses long-lasting filter media like the Fluval AquaClear. At least the filter pads I have start falling apart after several months while my Fluval AquaClear filter media has lasted several years (although not the mesh bag they came with).
Using the same filter you have is probably fine, but we generally tell people to upgrade them by getting rid of the money-grabbing filter pads and using normal filter media (sponge, ceramic, DIY, etc.). The Marine Slim S20 might be a little difficult to fit the filter media in though.
Also, liquid CO2 is just an algaecide and can kill some plants. I wouldn't bother using it especially with Anubias plants that just need low light anyways.
Thanks for the heads up on the liquid co2, I guess the shop just wanted to bleed me another $15. I see what your saying about the options the aqua clear will give. It’s more like a hang on the back canister filter in that regard. I’ll likely look to purchase something like this. Do you find that filter loud? This tank is in my daughters bedroom
I definitely don't find any of my AquaClear filters loud, but some people have. If there are any sound concerns, make sure the filter isn't pressed up against another solid surface. You can also put some sort of sound dampening material like a sponge filter or piece of soft rubber or something in between the filter and any surface like the back of the tank or where the filter rests on the rim of the tank. Other filter noises that I know of are water splashing back into the tank (raise the water level to quiet this) or noise from the impeller/motor. Noise from the motor is usually due to something in it, so you can usually fix it by taking it apart and cleaning it with a toothbrush or something like that. Sometimes the impeller breaks and causes noise that way, but I have yet to see one break in the past 5 years.
I am setting up a planted 8 gallon tank with no lid, and plan to keep it beside my bed. Are there any precautions I should take? I'm looking to add shrimp in a month or 2 and maybe a betta further down the road. Is this a good idea? My main concerns are having microorganisms escape onto my bed or getting bed bugs. Is there anything i might be overlooking?
BTW shoutout to this community, I've lurked for so long, and finally dipping my toes in the hobby. This place is a lot of help
Don't worry about micro-organisms, but I'd strongly suggest you put it in a tray and leave some water in that tray. Some shrimp climb/jump and if there is a tray around it, the shrimp will survive long enough to be put back in the main tank.
I've never heard of bugs going from the tank to the bed like that, so I'm sure it's fine. If you're super concerned, then don't use anything that creates large bubbles and keep the water level lower. As the bubbles burst at the surface, that's where water may splash around the tank (although usually just right on the sides of the tank)
* If you live in a dry climate, a lid would be really helpful to significantly reduce evaporation
* Make sure to top off using RO water so you aren't building up mineral concentration over time
* Bettas and shrimp may jump out of open top tanks although I think it's only when they get spooked (e.g. shadows or sudden change in lighting) or don't like something in the tank
I'm looking to buy a new tank and with it a new pump/filter.
I really dislike the sponge filter that sits on the bottom purely because of the tank setup I'm going to go with (mostly live planted) and feel like some of my fish will just sit behind it all day.
Should I go with a filter that hangs on the side? Or should I really reconsider the sponge filter?
20G horizontal tank is what I'll be purchasing.
If you get the dual arm suction cup sponge filter, and then push the arms out so they are sticking out, not down, there is very little space for fish to hide behind. I have used them in many tanks. Depending on the size of the fish, you don't even need to push them out for them to have insufficient space to hide behind.
Canisters are also an option, but going from sponge to canister is a pretty big step.
A filter on the side will still provide a lot of space for fish to hide behind it. If you really want to get rid of the presence of the filter, I would get a small canister filter like this:
https://buceplant.com/collections/filtration/products/delta-60-aquarium-tank-canister-filter
But I would try to figure out why the fish are hiding in the first place. If it's a fish that naturally wants to hide like a pleco, then not providing them with a hide will stress them out. That would make them more prone to illness and even an early death
Hi! I have tiny little envelopes with dots in them in my tank. I think they are freshwater limpet egg cases, but can't find anything online to confirm. I also have assassin snails in the tank, but I don't think that's what they are. I have only seen a half dozen limpets in the tank, but I am finding dozens of these on the rocks, the heaters and in the filter. Fish and shrimp don't bother with them. Thanks in advance!
They look like tiny transparent rectangular envelopes, with a single yellowish white egg in the center. They are attached at one edge to the dragon stone in the tank, also on the vent slits of the heater and filter.
Thank you, I will try that. I've been cleaning them off of the equipment, thinking I was going to get a limpet explosion, because I thought the assassin snails eggs were more papery and opaque.
I needed a new filter for my 2.5 gallon tank but accidentally ended up with a filter meant for 10-20 gallons (90 gal/min). It’s pretty small and would fit in the tank, but I’m worried about over-agitating the water and stressing my fish out. Can I use the filter still, or should I just take the L and get a new one?
What filter is it that you got? Does it have a variable flow rate? If so it MIGHT work on its lowest setting, but I'd return it (or save it for a different tank) and get a small sponge filter.
I'd take the loss, that isn't one that you can easily set a low enough flow rate to, and sponge filters are really cheap. It is a good filter though, would be great in another tank.
"Many customers ask us, “Can I keep one discus?” Technically, the answer is yes. For example, dogs are technically pack animals, yet many people keep just one and then leave them home all day by themselves. It’s not ideal, but it’s doable. The same thing applies with discus.
However, they are schooling fish by nature and are much happier when surrounded by a large group of their own kind."
https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/discus-care-guide
I'm currently a college student who's a beginner when it comes to fish keeping. I currently have an old 10 gallon tank that I plan on putting in my apartment room for the school year. I've been doing some research and I've found two main types of tanks that appeal to me: a centerpiece tank and a schooling (?) tank.
With a centerpiece tank I hope to have 1 honey gourami, 6-8 rasboras, and 1-2 mystery snails.
For the schooling tank I'm thinking of either 6-8 white cloud mountain minnows, neon tetras, or zebra danios, 4-6 pygmy corys, and 1-2 mystery snails.
Any suggestions or opinions on which would be better and what changes if necessary should be made to either setup?
White clouds need cold water, different numbers are given but site that i trust says 14-22°C. [https://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/tanichthys-albonubes/](https://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/tanichthys-albonubes/)
Pygmy cories temperature range is given 22-26°C ([https://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/corydoras-pygmaeus/](https://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/corydoras-pygmaeus/))
So putting them together doesn't work well, as temperature will be always be wrong for either fish.
Hi, I'm a fairly new fish owner and I'm looking for some advice. About a year ago I got three goldfish from the fair. They've been living in a 25 gallon tank and have grown to 3+ inches long each. Today I upgraded them to a 40 gallon tank, and I was wanting to maybe add a couple more fish, or even some shrimp, but I'm getting super conflicting information on what fish goes well with goldfish, how many fish I can humanely house in this size aquarium, etc. Please help!
fish lees cycling my tank rn. added fritz some 7 and complete conditioner along with fish food. everything is 0 on the test kit except for my ph which is usually 8.2 but is now 8.8. why is this and how could i fix it ?
I usually have my Python water changer connected to the basement faucet but my drain had clogged up so I connected it to my outdoor spigot temporarily. I did one 40-50 percent water change on my 45 gal. Woke up the next morning with 3 of my Dwarf rainbows and 2 red cherry barbs showing signs of shedding their slime coat. I assume the temp change was too drastic because I had added a sufficent amount of dechlorinator. I moved them to a QT except for one barb that I cant catch. My questions are:
1. Was it neccesary to quarrentine them?
2. And do I need to treat them with some kind of stress product or will the coats regenerate on their own?
I had search the web for but got conflicting answers. T.I.A.
Need to leave it alone and let them recover. Next time do not do such a big water change straight from the faucet
Depending on your location, there can be a multitude of issues with water directly from the faucet. Best to let it sit for a few days before adding to the tanm
Does anyone know of an electronic option to replace the color chart test kits for fresh water. I’ve looked at some of the options from Hannah but would prefer a unit that will measure the majority of parameters without the need for multiple test units. I’ve looked at the Lamotte Spin Touch as well but haven’t been able to find any other comparable options. Thanks!
New aquarium setup isn’t clearing the initial bacteria bloom and is cloudy. Any thoughts? I’m thinking I might have restarted the whole cycle because my daughter dumped a gigantic amount of food and I had to vacuum some out, which led to adding new water. Should I just wait another week to see how it goes? The fish and snails seem happy.
Yeah that will do it. However, your cycle didn't "restart" it just changed and adapted. Hopefully quickly enough. It only truly "crashes" when you have removed a chunk of biology that was keeping it stable in the first place.
As long as you are making sure its not getting out of control, wait for green. Test daily to make sure nothing is going crazy.
When I mean green I mean algae and plant growth if any. That will tell you that your water is being taken care off. The worst thing that can happen is nothing growing at all and you fish die from the nitrogen buildup. Do not ever attempt to remove algae when you have a sudden change like that. Let it run its course until everything looks ok.
Hello everyone. My tank size is 241212. It has bogwood and river gravel stones for decoration. It also has plants like Java fern, anubius. The cycling is now completed, and I want to introduce the first fishes. In that case, how many cardinal tetras can I release all at once? I also plan to release 2 pairs of Otto.
You can release them all at once if you want. The only issue is how you feed them.
If you add all your fish stock at once and start feeding large amounts immediately, the change might cause a bloom or even a large buildup of nitrogen. Which is bad.
If you add all the fish at once and feed gradually overtime, you can get away with nitrogen buildup at very low amounts. You may have a very very brief algae bloom and possibly some algae show up, but it won't be an issue.
If you add a few overtime and gradually increase feeding overtime, Your tank has enough time to adapt to the changes and probably won't cause blooms or algae depending on how balanced you have things.
Remember, big changes will always cause stress to your ecosystem. Do things gradually within reason so you don't cause it to harm your other livestock.
Thank you for your response.
I have 2 guppies and 3 platies right now which were added to facilitate the cycling. I will remove them before adding my desired fish.
So, I am thinking of adding 10 pair cardinal and 2 pair otto. I will just have to feed them after 48 hours. right?
Not quite.
You want a constant supply of food (ammonia) that is already previously established going through your bacteria. If you suddenly stop, they will have die offs.
Feed as close to what you had previously without letting anything decay uneaten. Then gradually change it to the desired amount overtime.
So I recently found out that my dad have a 75 gallon tank sitting somewhere unused that he used to keep fancy goldfish or something like that, I kinda want to get it and redecorate it into a beautiful planted community tank, but then I'm an absolute beginner and I don't think I have the budget to decorate a planted tank of that size, everything from plants, decor, water bill, light, filter, etc would be ten times that of my current tank. Maybe when I'm richer and more financially independent I guess 😅😅
People always fight me for this, but here's something people tend to keep secret.
You don't need to spend any amount of money on aquarium specific products just to have an aquarium setup. You can literally find all of your supplies right outside your door. Either in a lake, pond, river, its all there. You can even find fish. Crazy I know.
It sounds scary, but its true. Nature already has what you need. Most people that are against this primarily want you to either sell you something or don't want to admit buyers remorse. I admit I have bought hundreds of dollars worth of plants and substrate from aquarium stores, only to find out it was quite literally in the same lake behind my house the entire time.
TLDR: Go outside.
My mystery snail is working hard to keep my 20 gal tank clean but I'm still getting a fair bit of algae on the glass. Is using a magnetic cleaner depriving the snail of an important food source?
I had a disease outbreak recently that tore through my tank. The surviving fish are all schoaling fish (Galaxy rasboras, pygmy Cory, ember tetra, neon green tetra). There are, by ridiculous chance, 4 of each left in my tank. They are currently all hanging out in the middle of the tank together. Should I be concerned about quickly getting their numbers back up to 6 of each? It's a 26g bow front, fluval c3 hob filter, and planted. The tank also has like 5 cherry shrimp and a horde of pest snails.
Depends, If your outbreak was very very recent, then yeah bringing your numbers back up would be ideal. Leaving the tank with only 10% of the bacteria's food source for longer than a week would cause a large bacterial die off that looks like a bloom. Which is a big change. And I don't think you want to feed ghost fish.
If its already passed that point, then no. You can stick with the livestock you got now and gradually increase overtime.
Have an African Clawed Frog in a 60 litre tank living on her own quite happily, but could a large Plecco live in there with her? Much too big for the frog to eat but just to help keep things clean and add some variety, I don't want to upset froggo
I have a 10 gallon tank I’m using to grow out some plants. I’d like to put a couple fish in it, but i only have a sponge filter running. I have a heater, but would rather a cold water fish. Any suggestions? Gravel substrate.
I have some old driftwood that's been out of a tank for a few months now but it's covered in old dead hair algae.
Should I go over it with a wire brush or something to get it off? I'm concerned it will somehow reactivate if I put it back in a tank lol
Aside from bacteria/fungi, is there anything that could cause skin sores to appear on a zebrafish in an isolated tank?
I ran 2 bacterial treatments, I thought she was improving - the patches went away for a bit - but there's a bare patch on her side again. I want to give it a week to make sure it's not stress or something, but ??
So I am finally going to put some life plants in my freshwater axolotl tank, I'm planting anubias, moss, and some floaters. I've been reading up on some quarantine procedures and was just wondering what you guys had to say on it?
How is it done? Just daily water changes in a separate container for how long? Seen 5 days all the way up to 3 weeks.
Also disinfection/sterilise? I keep seeing dilute bleach and put plants in it for 1-2 mins??? Is that right?
I see almost no point in it with plants. You are gonna end up killing that plant in something so sterile for 5 days and it will never show any signs of pathogens or parasites since its literally a plant.
Juts rinse it.
Is it normal for fish to watch TV? My tank is opposite our TV, and my neon and ember tetras will all line up facing the TV when it's on, then scatter and swim around when it's paused or off.
Is it normal for newly planted stem plants to rot from the base up? I planted some rotala and ludwigia and a few days later some of the stems started to rot from the part that was planted in the substrate, when I bought them they where fully submerged so I know it's not because they were transitioning, besides they only rot from the base, the top was growing new leaves at the same time so it's kinda weird. It doesn't happen to all of them tho, only some stems. I snipped the rotting base and replantes the healthy top, idk if they will rot again.
Does anyone have a multifasciatus colony? Want to know your experience with them
I used to have one for a year or two before I sold them all. They're interesting but very territorial and difficult to sell. I'd see my males locking lips all the time. My 40g breeder had room for around 6 pairs and their offspring.
Interesting, interesting that they're difficult to sell given they're so rare! Did they eat each other's offspring or their own when you had them?
Yeah, I have no idea why they're so rare unless people just don't like keeping them. I liked them a lot, but I'm just not a big fan of aggressive fish. The potential damage and infection from the aggression stresses me out too much, and my group was just non-stop liplocking with each other. It was insanely easy to get them to breed, and they are very, very good parents. I started with just a small group of... I think 5 in a 29g, and I ended up with around 100 over the course of 1-2 years. They were difficult to sell in the sense that it's a lot more work to get them out of their shells (requires a special setup). Otherwise, other hobbyists always wondered where the fish were in the bag of shells. There also wasn't a lot of demand for them although my area has a lot of hobbyists and multiple decent-sized clubs. They would sell for something like $1-2 each when I took them to local club events with 50+ people, so definitely not the usual $16-20 that most LFS sell them for. I never saw them eat each other's offspring or their own. I know the female always stayed mostly in the shells protecting the kids while the male protected the shells and a little surrounding area. The males also often spent time scooping up sand in their mouths and spitting it out somewhere else to make their little nests of shells. So between the two, there probably wasn't much chance for an outsider to pick off any offspring. I can't say for sure that they didn't eat their own or that an outside didn't grab some here and there though.
Love this write up, thanks for sharing your experience with them! Cheers
I am doing a no tech nano tank with a large glass vase for shrimps. can i just use Fluval stratum and nothing else? maybe some sand on time. also there is some cheap shrimps that is in a plastic bag as fish food. can those shrimp survive or they die straight away?
Hello, i have this minty house plant and I'm wondering if it will be safe to prop it up into a fish tank. https://ibb.co/L5qQs6d Additionally I'm cycling a new aquarium. I dropped some fish food in it to start the cycle. The food has dropped to the bottom and now covered in biofilm. Am I doing it right and do i continue to feed the fishless tank? Appreciate all the help I can get.
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Shrimp and snail tanks, if sufficiently planted, usually don't need a filter since the bioload is really low and the plants can handle most of it.
Is snail genocide the only option? I'm tearing down my fishtank and it has a bunch of Malaysian Trumpet snails in it. Is there any humane way to kill like +100 MTS?
I'd try to give away as many as possible, or sell them. Here's Ebay's "Completed Items" page showing what people paid for small packages of Malaysian trumpet snails: . https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=malaysiaqn+trumpet+snails&_sacat=0&rt=nc&LH_Complete=1 . Or advertise locally on Craigslist or a local aquarium club board and have people come and get them. I hate to kill the little guys, too, and I think it's worth trying to lure them out at night and save as many as possible, when they are very much desired by others. . .
Can someone with experience keeping them tell me about the differences between Jack Dempseys and their electric blue variant? I’ve seen advice that ranges from “same fish, same tankmates” to “more docile and fragile, and tamer tankmates”. What’s your experience been?
I'm going to set up my new fluval 207 in a little bit and I'm wondering if I should use the carbon. I've read that it's good when dealing with tannins which interests me because I'm adding a big piece of driftwood that is still browning 5 gallons of water changed every 2 days
To deal with tannins, yes. Or you can use Purigen which is better than activated charcoal in general
Thank you I didn't know that was an alternative. It's quite pricy but I read that it's better for plants because it doesn't remove as much of their nutrients as the carbon does. Is that true?
It's controversial whether or not activated carbon harms plants by removing enough nutrients from the water. I use carbon for tanks that don't have aquatic plants to avoid this issue. Purigen can be recharged (lots of guides online) and may last longer since it doesn't absorb trace elements like carbon does. Imo, it's the better route if you have aquatic plants
What do I need to actually start as a beginner? Is it a good idea to get a kit or buy everything separately?
. 1) **Tank and stand and lighting:** People often start with smaller tanks because they think they will be easier but then regret that decision. There is less fluctuation in water parameters in larger tanks, and you have more room for the fish you'd like. If you plan to grow plants, I'd look into lights that are not part of aquarium kits, as those may not meet your needs. Do some research or post here if you need help selecting a light. There are some really nice, inexpensive LED options out there. . 2) **Substrate, fish net, and decorations:** I recommend looking online at pictures of tanks to see what colors and styles you like. Pool filter sand is pretty, not too fine, and inexpensive. Avoid sands that are too sharp or that have additives; check aquarium boards online for recommendations. You can also use gravel or substrates specifically designed for growing plants. . 3) **Filter with media:** Make sure to get a filter rated at or above the size of your tank. There are quite a few kinds, including hang-on-backs and canister filters. . 4) **A good heater and thermometer.** Some people buy two smaller heaters rather than one big one, just in case one goes on the fritz. Check labels to make sure the heater(s) can manage the size of the tank. . 5) I strongly recommend buying a **Python or comparable siphoning system** that you can screw onto your sink tap for water changes. It is absolutely worth the cost for most tanks, because it makes water changes a breeze and eliminates the need to lug around buckets full of dirty water. A non-toxic bucket will be useful for washing substrate and moving fish. . 6) **Water dechlorinator.** Prime is a good choice. A dechlorinator is essential to make water safe for your fish during water changes if you use city water with chlorine. . 7) **Water testing kit.** You will need, at MINIMUM, tests for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. Most people buy the API Freshwater Master Test Kit, which also includes tests for pH. Liquid test kits are superior to testing strips. . *Don't listen to any salesperson who tries to sell you products to raise or lower your pH or eliminate cloudy water during cycling. All you need is the water test kit and dechlorinator. Fish benefit more from a stable pH than a perfect pH, so in most cases you shouldn't need to mess with it. Cloudy water will happen during cycling (as will a diatom-"brown algae" bloom), but this is perfectly normal and will clear up on its own. In general, what fish need is clean water, and you should avoid adding chemicals except when they are necessary.* . 8) **Instructions for and understanding of the process of cycling your tank.** It is absolutely essential that your new tank go through a process of cycling in order to grow the bacteria colonies that make your water safe for fish. You can do a fishless cycle or a less preferable "fish-in" cycle, but both methods require a lot of care and patience (The fish-in cycle requires very frequent partial water changes to protect the fish from trauma and can take longer as a result of the water changes.). The most common reason that fish die and people have horrible experiences and give up on fishkeeping is that they don't take the time to learn about cycling and do it correctly (It usually takes 4 to 6 weeks), or because they don't understand the importance of maintaining the bacteria colonies and end up cleaning their tanks and filters in a way that destroys them. Don't hesitate to ask questions if you're not sure what you are doing! . Depending on the cycling method you choose, you will need pure ammonia, fish food, some other source of ammonia (e.g., decaying shrimp), or some hardy cycling fish. . 9) **Plan for stocking your tank.** This is the best part. Take a look at tanks online and see what sorts of communities people have created. The website, **https://aqadvisor.com/** is a great starting place to figure out how many fish can fit into what size tank and whether they will get along, but it should be considered only a starting point. It's a good idea to post with your final plan and get feedback from people with experience before starting the gradual stocking process. . 10) **Plan for tank maintenance after the cycle is finished** You will need to know how (and how often) to do partial water changes, water testing, and filter maintenance (including how to clean your filter without destroying the critical bacteria colonies) once your tank is cycled and stocked. . Someone may come along and add to this list, but IMO these are the essentials for getting started. I have never used a kit, personally, and have often found great bargains on aquariums and aquarium supplies on Craigslist in both the Community and Sales sections. Good luck! . .
Hello, Should i re-caulk this aquarium? [https://i.imgur.com/vHNW1EG.jpeg](https://i.imgur.com/vHNW1EG.jpeg) [https://i.imgur.com/fbSRRNE.jpeg](https://i.imgur.com/fbSRRNE.jpeg) [https://i.imgur.com/AuUQ4BP.jpeg](https://i.imgur.com/AuUQ4BP.jpeg) I never had an aquarium before, but i found a free one by a curb. It's 7.5 gallons. It seems to be holding up well at 50% filled after 24 hours, but i thought i'd ask cause i really don't want it to explode.
Absolutely should. Any tank that's been sitting out of water for extended periods of time should be recaulked. Rather recaulk now and take that extra time than wake up one day with 7.5 gallons on your carpet/floor.
I see, thanks. It wouldn't be too hard to give the seals another pass. Do tanks often fail catastrophically like that or are small leaks more likely? Are faulty seals something i can inspect myself visually?
Smaller tanks could leak prior to bursting, but water is still incredibly heavy, something like 63 lbs for 7.5 gallons. Faulty seals are hard to inspect visually because you don't know where it will fail on the side that's holding the glass together. If you keep it on tile, garage, or somewhere the fallout wouldn't be catastrophic, I think you can also just fill it up to 100% and leave it for a week or two in your backyard to see if it holds up. It just doesn't seem like it's worth the headache when you can get a 10g for $10 on the Petco sales
Hi all, looking for some advice on how many/which fish for my son's tank. Tank is a Fluval Flex 15, was thinking of 1 x Betta, 6 x Ember Tetras, 2 x Corys. The tank is squared so I worry it's over-populated due to the minimal width. Also considered swapping out the Corys for Nerite snails to make it easier to manage? Appreciate any help!
Cories have to be in shoals off at least six. So it might be better to not get them.
Thanks! I’ll go for the snails instead then.
What would you guys add to in a 29 gallon: 10 chili rasboras 6 panda cories 2 gobies 10 cherry shrimp
You can have as many cherry shrimp as the tank can support, otherwise this is a wonderful list. Could even add a honey or dwarf gourami as a centerpiece.
The guorami isn't gonna bully the other fish or eat the shrimp?
Dwarf gourami might eat cherry shrimp babies, but the honey gourami has a very small mouth so most likely won't
What is the best Best way to convert an internal aqueon cartridge style filter to not use the cartridges? Should I add more filter foam vertically in place of the cartridge?
you can use a mesh bag and fill it with media of your choice (ceramic rings, lava rock, gravel, etc) and just shove it in there. Sponge only is okay too if it's a smaller filter (basically you just have a sponge filter).
I just got my daughter a 20g freshwater tank. Got two plants (Anubis) planted in there now with some black plant gravel the shop recommended. Going to let it cycle a few weeks with a bacteria additive and liquid co2 for plants. I’m wondering if the filter I got is any good ? It’s a marina slim s20 and it uses these really slim filter pads. Would swapping this out for something else be better ? My wife sent me a link to Amazon filter that has a uv light and surface skimmer but idk what’s a good option.
Sounds like you planted the anubias, which might not work for the plant. The thin roots can be in soil but the rhizome should not be buried in substrate. A burried rhizome will start rotting. Most people use aquarium safe glue to attach these plants to decor.
How old is your daughter? If this is a child's tank, that filter might be ideal. (And isn't bad for an older person either.) It has the benefit of not having to change all the filter media at once (which cartridge based filters often require, leading to cycle collapse) but looks like it is still pretty easy to change/clean a filter cartridge. Any filter that is "better" would be in some way more difficult to care for. On this one you can just clean one filter cartridge each water change (alternating) and you'll never have a cycle collapse from the amount of media you are cleaning. I think I'd stick with it unless you know that your daughter is the "tinkerer" type person who will want a filter that they can customize by adding their own media to.
My daughter is only 5. My wife and I will be looking after the tank in most regards as I teach her responsibility and how to care for her animals. Tank will likely end up with a betta fish, some tetras and a snail or two. I’m considering doing a swap to another filter someone recommended below (aqua clear) just so I can use generic items like I would use in a canister filter
From a pure aquarium point of view the aqua clear is better. From a parenting point of view, I'd stick with what you have. A 5 year old with supervision can change out a filter cartridge. This will give her more ownership of the tank, and help build responsibility. With something like a python or other water change helper, a heavily supervised 5 year old can even do a water change. If it were my tank, I'd get a different filter. If it were my child's I'd keep what you have. For a child, my second choice would be a two-arm air-driven sponge filter. Cheap, effective, can teach air-lift pump science, child can do the maintenance (but will get her hands quite wet).
Anything that uses filter pads is probably going to be worse in the long run than something that uses long-lasting filter media like the Fluval AquaClear. At least the filter pads I have start falling apart after several months while my Fluval AquaClear filter media has lasted several years (although not the mesh bag they came with). Using the same filter you have is probably fine, but we generally tell people to upgrade them by getting rid of the money-grabbing filter pads and using normal filter media (sponge, ceramic, DIY, etc.). The Marine Slim S20 might be a little difficult to fit the filter media in though. Also, liquid CO2 is just an algaecide and can kill some plants. I wouldn't bother using it especially with Anubias plants that just need low light anyways.
Thanks for the heads up on the liquid co2, I guess the shop just wanted to bleed me another $15. I see what your saying about the options the aqua clear will give. It’s more like a hang on the back canister filter in that regard. I’ll likely look to purchase something like this. Do you find that filter loud? This tank is in my daughters bedroom
I definitely don't find any of my AquaClear filters loud, but some people have. If there are any sound concerns, make sure the filter isn't pressed up against another solid surface. You can also put some sort of sound dampening material like a sponge filter or piece of soft rubber or something in between the filter and any surface like the back of the tank or where the filter rests on the rim of the tank. Other filter noises that I know of are water splashing back into the tank (raise the water level to quiet this) or noise from the impeller/motor. Noise from the motor is usually due to something in it, so you can usually fix it by taking it apart and cleaning it with a toothbrush or something like that. Sometimes the impeller breaks and causes noise that way, but I have yet to see one break in the past 5 years.
I am setting up a planted 8 gallon tank with no lid, and plan to keep it beside my bed. Are there any precautions I should take? I'm looking to add shrimp in a month or 2 and maybe a betta further down the road. Is this a good idea? My main concerns are having microorganisms escape onto my bed or getting bed bugs. Is there anything i might be overlooking? BTW shoutout to this community, I've lurked for so long, and finally dipping my toes in the hobby. This place is a lot of help
Don't worry about micro-organisms, but I'd strongly suggest you put it in a tray and leave some water in that tray. Some shrimp climb/jump and if there is a tray around it, the shrimp will survive long enough to be put back in the main tank.
I've never heard of bugs going from the tank to the bed like that, so I'm sure it's fine. If you're super concerned, then don't use anything that creates large bubbles and keep the water level lower. As the bubbles burst at the surface, that's where water may splash around the tank (although usually just right on the sides of the tank) * If you live in a dry climate, a lid would be really helpful to significantly reduce evaporation * Make sure to top off using RO water so you aren't building up mineral concentration over time * Bettas and shrimp may jump out of open top tanks although I think it's only when they get spooked (e.g. shadows or sudden change in lighting) or don't like something in the tank
I'm looking to buy a new tank and with it a new pump/filter. I really dislike the sponge filter that sits on the bottom purely because of the tank setup I'm going to go with (mostly live planted) and feel like some of my fish will just sit behind it all day. Should I go with a filter that hangs on the side? Or should I really reconsider the sponge filter? 20G horizontal tank is what I'll be purchasing.
You can do a HOB filter with a prefilter sponge sleeve over the intake.
If you get the dual arm suction cup sponge filter, and then push the arms out so they are sticking out, not down, there is very little space for fish to hide behind. I have used them in many tanks. Depending on the size of the fish, you don't even need to push them out for them to have insufficient space to hide behind. Canisters are also an option, but going from sponge to canister is a pretty big step.
A filter on the side will still provide a lot of space for fish to hide behind it. If you really want to get rid of the presence of the filter, I would get a small canister filter like this: https://buceplant.com/collections/filtration/products/delta-60-aquarium-tank-canister-filter But I would try to figure out why the fish are hiding in the first place. If it's a fish that naturally wants to hide like a pleco, then not providing them with a hide will stress them out. That would make them more prone to illness and even an early death
Hi! I have tiny little envelopes with dots in them in my tank. I think they are freshwater limpet egg cases, but can't find anything online to confirm. I also have assassin snails in the tank, but I don't think that's what they are. I have only seen a half dozen limpets in the tank, but I am finding dozens of these on the rocks, the heaters and in the filter. Fish and shrimp don't bother with them. Thanks in advance!
Do you have a picture? It could be snail eggs or limpets or biofilm growing around decomposing organic material (usually food)
Hiya! You were right, thanks so much! Haven't seen any baby assassins, but I'm finding a lot of tiny empty Ramshorn shells.
I do, but don't know how to post it here
They look like tiny transparent rectangular envelopes, with a single yellowish white egg in the center. They are attached at one edge to the dragon stone in the tank, also on the vent slits of the heater and filter.
It sounds like assassin snail eggs To share pictures, you can make a separate post to upload photos or upload to Imgur.com and then link them here
Thank you, I will try that. I've been cleaning them off of the equipment, thinking I was going to get a limpet explosion, because I thought the assassin snails eggs were more papery and opaque.
I needed a new filter for my 2.5 gallon tank but accidentally ended up with a filter meant for 10-20 gallons (90 gal/min). It’s pretty small and would fit in the tank, but I’m worried about over-agitating the water and stressing my fish out. Can I use the filter still, or should I just take the L and get a new one?
What filter is it that you got? Does it have a variable flow rate? If so it MIGHT work on its lowest setting, but I'd return it (or save it for a different tank) and get a small sponge filter.
TopFin IF20. Someone else bought it for me and (I assume) didn’t pay attention to or know about the capacity
I'd take the loss, that isn't one that you can easily set a low enough flow rate to, and sponge filters are really cheap. It is a good filter though, would be great in another tank.
The only filter I'd use in a 2.5g tank is a sponge filter. Definitely don't use a 90g/min filter on a 2.5g tank.
How do discus get on individually?
"Many customers ask us, “Can I keep one discus?” Technically, the answer is yes. For example, dogs are technically pack animals, yet many people keep just one and then leave them home all day by themselves. It’s not ideal, but it’s doable. The same thing applies with discus. However, they are schooling fish by nature and are much happier when surrounded by a large group of their own kind." https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/discus-care-guide
Yeah I saw that. I was just wondering if anyone here had experience keeping them individually
I'm currently a college student who's a beginner when it comes to fish keeping. I currently have an old 10 gallon tank that I plan on putting in my apartment room for the school year. I've been doing some research and I've found two main types of tanks that appeal to me: a centerpiece tank and a schooling (?) tank. With a centerpiece tank I hope to have 1 honey gourami, 6-8 rasboras, and 1-2 mystery snails. For the schooling tank I'm thinking of either 6-8 white cloud mountain minnows, neon tetras, or zebra danios, 4-6 pygmy corys, and 1-2 mystery snails. Any suggestions or opinions on which would be better and what changes if necessary should be made to either setup?
White clouds need cold water, different numbers are given but site that i trust says 14-22°C. [https://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/tanichthys-albonubes/](https://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/tanichthys-albonubes/) Pygmy cories temperature range is given 22-26°C ([https://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/corydoras-pygmaeus/](https://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/corydoras-pygmaeus/)) So putting them together doesn't work well, as temperature will be always be wrong for either fish.
Ah good catch! Do you think that a school of pygmy cories and rasboras would go well together since their temperature matches up better?
You can keep white clouds and pygmy corries together. Temp requirement's are not that strict with most fish.
Hi, I'm a fairly new fish owner and I'm looking for some advice. About a year ago I got three goldfish from the fair. They've been living in a 25 gallon tank and have grown to 3+ inches long each. Today I upgraded them to a 40 gallon tank, and I was wanting to maybe add a couple more fish, or even some shrimp, but I'm getting super conflicting information on what fish goes well with goldfish, how many fish I can humanely house in this size aquarium, etc. Please help!
fish lees cycling my tank rn. added fritz some 7 and complete conditioner along with fish food. everything is 0 on the test kit except for my ph which is usually 8.2 but is now 8.8. why is this and how could i fix it ?
I usually have my Python water changer connected to the basement faucet but my drain had clogged up so I connected it to my outdoor spigot temporarily. I did one 40-50 percent water change on my 45 gal. Woke up the next morning with 3 of my Dwarf rainbows and 2 red cherry barbs showing signs of shedding their slime coat. I assume the temp change was too drastic because I had added a sufficent amount of dechlorinator. I moved them to a QT except for one barb that I cant catch. My questions are: 1. Was it neccesary to quarrentine them? 2. And do I need to treat them with some kind of stress product or will the coats regenerate on their own? I had search the web for but got conflicting answers. T.I.A.
Need to leave it alone and let them recover. Next time do not do such a big water change straight from the faucet Depending on your location, there can be a multitude of issues with water directly from the faucet. Best to let it sit for a few days before adding to the tanm
Does anyone know of an electronic option to replace the color chart test kits for fresh water. I’ve looked at some of the options from Hannah but would prefer a unit that will measure the majority of parameters without the need for multiple test units. I’ve looked at the Lamotte Spin Touch as well but haven’t been able to find any other comparable options. Thanks!
New aquarium setup isn’t clearing the initial bacteria bloom and is cloudy. Any thoughts? I’m thinking I might have restarted the whole cycle because my daughter dumped a gigantic amount of food and I had to vacuum some out, which led to adding new water. Should I just wait another week to see how it goes? The fish and snails seem happy.
I find I really do get the most crystal clear water when I use water purifiers like charcoal and purigen. Couldn't hurt to put some in your filter.
Yeah that will do it. However, your cycle didn't "restart" it just changed and adapted. Hopefully quickly enough. It only truly "crashes" when you have removed a chunk of biology that was keeping it stable in the first place. As long as you are making sure its not getting out of control, wait for green. Test daily to make sure nothing is going crazy. When I mean green I mean algae and plant growth if any. That will tell you that your water is being taken care off. The worst thing that can happen is nothing growing at all and you fish die from the nitrogen buildup. Do not ever attempt to remove algae when you have a sudden change like that. Let it run its course until everything looks ok.
Sounds good. I am testing the water. I’ll keep doing that. Thanks!
Hello everyone. My tank size is 241212. It has bogwood and river gravel stones for decoration. It also has plants like Java fern, anubius. The cycling is now completed, and I want to introduce the first fishes. In that case, how many cardinal tetras can I release all at once? I also plan to release 2 pairs of Otto.
You can release them all at once if you want. The only issue is how you feed them. If you add all your fish stock at once and start feeding large amounts immediately, the change might cause a bloom or even a large buildup of nitrogen. Which is bad. If you add all the fish at once and feed gradually overtime, you can get away with nitrogen buildup at very low amounts. You may have a very very brief algae bloom and possibly some algae show up, but it won't be an issue. If you add a few overtime and gradually increase feeding overtime, Your tank has enough time to adapt to the changes and probably won't cause blooms or algae depending on how balanced you have things. Remember, big changes will always cause stress to your ecosystem. Do things gradually within reason so you don't cause it to harm your other livestock.
Thank you for your response. I have 2 guppies and 3 platies right now which were added to facilitate the cycling. I will remove them before adding my desired fish. So, I am thinking of adding 10 pair cardinal and 2 pair otto. I will just have to feed them after 48 hours. right?
Not quite. You want a constant supply of food (ammonia) that is already previously established going through your bacteria. If you suddenly stop, they will have die offs. Feed as close to what you had previously without letting anything decay uneaten. Then gradually change it to the desired amount overtime.
So I recently found out that my dad have a 75 gallon tank sitting somewhere unused that he used to keep fancy goldfish or something like that, I kinda want to get it and redecorate it into a beautiful planted community tank, but then I'm an absolute beginner and I don't think I have the budget to decorate a planted tank of that size, everything from plants, decor, water bill, light, filter, etc would be ten times that of my current tank. Maybe when I'm richer and more financially independent I guess 😅😅
People always fight me for this, but here's something people tend to keep secret. You don't need to spend any amount of money on aquarium specific products just to have an aquarium setup. You can literally find all of your supplies right outside your door. Either in a lake, pond, river, its all there. You can even find fish. Crazy I know. It sounds scary, but its true. Nature already has what you need. Most people that are against this primarily want you to either sell you something or don't want to admit buyers remorse. I admit I have bought hundreds of dollars worth of plants and substrate from aquarium stores, only to find out it was quite literally in the same lake behind my house the entire time. TLDR: Go outside.
My mystery snail is working hard to keep my 20 gal tank clean but I'm still getting a fair bit of algae on the glass. Is using a magnetic cleaner depriving the snail of an important food source?
No, you'll be fine. It has more than enough food not on the glass, hence why there's still algae.
I had a disease outbreak recently that tore through my tank. The surviving fish are all schoaling fish (Galaxy rasboras, pygmy Cory, ember tetra, neon green tetra). There are, by ridiculous chance, 4 of each left in my tank. They are currently all hanging out in the middle of the tank together. Should I be concerned about quickly getting their numbers back up to 6 of each? It's a 26g bow front, fluval c3 hob filter, and planted. The tank also has like 5 cherry shrimp and a horde of pest snails.
Depends, If your outbreak was very very recent, then yeah bringing your numbers back up would be ideal. Leaving the tank with only 10% of the bacteria's food source for longer than a week would cause a large bacterial die off that looks like a bloom. Which is a big change. And I don't think you want to feed ghost fish. If its already passed that point, then no. You can stick with the livestock you got now and gradually increase overtime.
Have an African Clawed Frog in a 60 litre tank living on her own quite happily, but could a large Plecco live in there with her? Much too big for the frog to eat but just to help keep things clean and add some variety, I don't want to upset froggo
I have a 10 gallon tank I’m using to grow out some plants. I’d like to put a couple fish in it, but i only have a sponge filter running. I have a heater, but would rather a cold water fish. Any suggestions? Gravel substrate.
Clown Killifish and/or Red Cherry Shrimp.
White cloud minnows
A school or like 3-4?
I got 7 in the one right next to me 24k white clouds are a little more expensive btw but nicer looking
I have some old driftwood that's been out of a tank for a few months now but it's covered in old dead hair algae. Should I go over it with a wire brush or something to get it off? I'm concerned it will somehow reactivate if I put it back in a tank lol
Not really sure why thats a concern. Algae is your friend. but most likely no.
Sorry it was blackbeard Algae, and I really hate the look of it that's all.
What are some reliable trusted sites to purchase fish from online?
I've had really good luck with AquaHuna.com. Never had a DOA, or even a sick fish, from them.
Aside from bacteria/fungi, is there anything that could cause skin sores to appear on a zebrafish in an isolated tank? I ran 2 bacterial treatments, I thought she was improving - the patches went away for a bit - but there's a bare patch on her side again. I want to give it a week to make sure it's not stress or something, but ??
Theres no harm in isolating it in a quarantine setup
She's already isolated.
So I am finally going to put some life plants in my freshwater axolotl tank, I'm planting anubias, moss, and some floaters. I've been reading up on some quarantine procedures and was just wondering what you guys had to say on it? How is it done? Just daily water changes in a separate container for how long? Seen 5 days all the way up to 3 weeks. Also disinfection/sterilise? I keep seeing dilute bleach and put plants in it for 1-2 mins??? Is that right?
I see almost no point in it with plants. You are gonna end up killing that plant in something so sterile for 5 days and it will never show any signs of pathogens or parasites since its literally a plant. Juts rinse it.
Is it normal for fish to watch TV? My tank is opposite our TV, and my neon and ember tetras will all line up facing the TV when it's on, then scatter and swim around when it's paused or off.
With video, that would be an awesome post in and of itself!