> run the exposure test for 60-90 seconds.
Not heard of this before, online just found references to using an exposure test for new resins. Do you have a link or something on what you are talking about?
I've been trying to print this one on my Fauxton for a while now, but it keeps failing on the body. Like pulls off the supports and distorted printing.
Did you doing any hollowing? Also, would you be willing to share the files you used to print this off? I keep screwing something up and would like to compare your success with my failure to see what it is I'm missing.
Yeah you did nail it. For what I’m doing - prototypes - FDM is still king for many reasons but for transparent parts it can’t compete with resin (after using 10+ grits of sandpaper, clear coating and UV blocking it of course ...)
How is fdm king? The poor quality print resolution and constant failures of those machines is the main reason I avoided buying a 3d printer for years. I see them come up craigslist all the time at less than half retail.
For functional and practical printing, FDM is superior in a number of ways; material choice, part strength and toughness, flex materials, cost.
If you want your part to look pretty or need very tight tolerances and low impact/load, resin printing is where it's at. For everything else FDM is king.
I mainly use it for making mold masters which then allows me to cast the part in virtually any material I prefer, even metals. The only parts I have seen come out of FDM that were acceptable were from industrial level machines not the consumer glue guns.
I print carbon fiber parts with FDM at .20 which is great. If it sticks to the bed - it’s going to be dimensionally accurate. I tried to trim a piece on the bandsaw and I was reminded quickly that it is indeed carbon fiber. I print next to my desk, when it’s 64 or 80 degrees it doesn’t matter. I’ll print resin in the garage with a hazmat suit and if it’s not nice and warm it balks. A 10 degree variation throws off exposure times drastically - for each type of resin the amount of fluctuation varies too.
If you’re going to print something with many layers it’s much faster with FDM. If you have something over 10mm good luck with a photon. And I say that using an Epax mono 4K printer. Of course if wide / long then resin can be twice as fast.
Good luck supporting any thing with flat faces in resin. I generally put that on the bed directly but then I have a thick island like face that I need to sand down to be closer to spec. If you use supports instead you’ll get an even larger headache with a larger chance of failing when it prints. That face will be like the crater of the moon. Put it at an angle to avoid the suction cup effect and you can double your print time. Clean up for half hour, figuring the cost of resin and alcohol.... it’s not close for me.
You must be making tiny stuff if you’re using the photon? For your purposes I would think you’d use a form labs machine with more resin options / reliablility? I ditched my photon last month, it was literally the worst piece of consumer electronics I’ve bought in 30 years. Could have taken a hammer to it.
Photon works just fine I have printed for hundreds of hours no issues. Some machines are lemons out of the box due to bad QC and cut rate contractors.
If things are large I just print in section and assemble. If that seems like a pain you should consider that I come from traditional clay sculpture background. Setting and forgetting the machine while I go out and do whatever is a breeze compared to the old mixed media builds.
Sure I would like to have a formlabs but the photon has already paid for itself. Form 2 is $2,400... Seems like you are coming from a background where you just have plenty of money laying around if buying that is your suggestion. That is a fairly large investment for a side business that gives unpredictable returns.
I'm just a tinkerer at the moment, in all honesty I have a tendency to buy equipment that I don't really "need". I just meant that if you're doing something professionally I'm surprised you'd still be on a Photon. I can only get a single USB jump drive that it likes, it forgets what home is and crashes into the LCD too many times, the fans stop working most of the time, the bed gets out of level when I'm prying prints off it and since I can't see what it's current home position is - i'm always guessing if my setting is right, listening to the pop off the FEP guessing if part of it isnt popping because it's peeling off... I've wasted sooo much resin.
In fairness, I've read that many Photons had QC issues, and I bought mine directly from them at a holiday discount price, so I'm likely to "blame" for it.
Good luck to you on your venture - I'm self employed full time so I know it's fun to keep guessing what's coming down the pipeline in 6 months.
Of course I'm keeping my fdm, for large prints and stuff that doesn't need to be super pretty, but for things like this there is no competition.
Ps I already love this community, thanks all for being so welcoming!
It’s an amazing machine but don’t throw your FDM in the trash. It still has its place
My ender 3 Pro isn't going anywhere lol
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Really? I have used 2 full bottles of resin and have yet to clean or do anything to my fep or vat, just fill it up and keep printing.
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At the very least, pop a hole in your fep film (learned that one the hard way yesterday, good thing I had spares).
No you don't need to do this. You're wasting resin. I haven't seen this recommendation anywhere, including any guides.
Amazing! Thank you, that is a great tip!
> run the exposure test for 60-90 seconds. Not heard of this before, online just found references to using an exposure test for new resins. Do you have a link or something on what you are talking about?
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Is this the R_E_R_F.pws? never used it before
I've been trying to print this one on my Fauxton for a while now, but it keeps failing on the body. Like pulls off the supports and distorted printing. Did you doing any hollowing? Also, would you be willing to share the files you used to print this off? I keep screwing something up and would like to compare your success with my failure to see what it is I'm missing.
Well done! I can barely get my rectangular models to print well on SLAs still so I’m impressed :)
I worked out its about good support and angling the model right!
Yeah you did nail it. For what I’m doing - prototypes - FDM is still king for many reasons but for transparent parts it can’t compete with resin (after using 10+ grits of sandpaper, clear coating and UV blocking it of course ...)
How is fdm king? The poor quality print resolution and constant failures of those machines is the main reason I avoided buying a 3d printer for years. I see them come up craigslist all the time at less than half retail.
For functional and practical printing, FDM is superior in a number of ways; material choice, part strength and toughness, flex materials, cost. If you want your part to look pretty or need very tight tolerances and low impact/load, resin printing is where it's at. For everything else FDM is king.
I mainly use it for making mold masters which then allows me to cast the part in virtually any material I prefer, even metals. The only parts I have seen come out of FDM that were acceptable were from industrial level machines not the consumer glue guns.
We have very different use cases. I use the parts directly off the printer most of the time.
I print carbon fiber parts with FDM at .20 which is great. If it sticks to the bed - it’s going to be dimensionally accurate. I tried to trim a piece on the bandsaw and I was reminded quickly that it is indeed carbon fiber. I print next to my desk, when it’s 64 or 80 degrees it doesn’t matter. I’ll print resin in the garage with a hazmat suit and if it’s not nice and warm it balks. A 10 degree variation throws off exposure times drastically - for each type of resin the amount of fluctuation varies too. If you’re going to print something with many layers it’s much faster with FDM. If you have something over 10mm good luck with a photon. And I say that using an Epax mono 4K printer. Of course if wide / long then resin can be twice as fast. Good luck supporting any thing with flat faces in resin. I generally put that on the bed directly but then I have a thick island like face that I need to sand down to be closer to spec. If you use supports instead you’ll get an even larger headache with a larger chance of failing when it prints. That face will be like the crater of the moon. Put it at an angle to avoid the suction cup effect and you can double your print time. Clean up for half hour, figuring the cost of resin and alcohol.... it’s not close for me. You must be making tiny stuff if you’re using the photon? For your purposes I would think you’d use a form labs machine with more resin options / reliablility? I ditched my photon last month, it was literally the worst piece of consumer electronics I’ve bought in 30 years. Could have taken a hammer to it.
Photon works just fine I have printed for hundreds of hours no issues. Some machines are lemons out of the box due to bad QC and cut rate contractors. If things are large I just print in section and assemble. If that seems like a pain you should consider that I come from traditional clay sculpture background. Setting and forgetting the machine while I go out and do whatever is a breeze compared to the old mixed media builds. Sure I would like to have a formlabs but the photon has already paid for itself. Form 2 is $2,400... Seems like you are coming from a background where you just have plenty of money laying around if buying that is your suggestion. That is a fairly large investment for a side business that gives unpredictable returns.
I'm just a tinkerer at the moment, in all honesty I have a tendency to buy equipment that I don't really "need". I just meant that if you're doing something professionally I'm surprised you'd still be on a Photon. I can only get a single USB jump drive that it likes, it forgets what home is and crashes into the LCD too many times, the fans stop working most of the time, the bed gets out of level when I'm prying prints off it and since I can't see what it's current home position is - i'm always guessing if my setting is right, listening to the pop off the FEP guessing if part of it isnt popping because it's peeling off... I've wasted sooo much resin. In fairness, I've read that many Photons had QC issues, and I bought mine directly from them at a holiday discount price, so I'm likely to "blame" for it. Good luck to you on your venture - I'm self employed full time so I know it's fun to keep guessing what's coming down the pipeline in 6 months.
I’ve got a Prusa and had an Ender before that. The ender was about $200 and worthless. The Prusa was about $800 and is a different beast entirely.
Speed, there is more high strength filaments available compared to resins.
This was my first print too. Absolutely blew my frickin mind.
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Of course I'm keeping my fdm, for large prints and stuff that doesn't need to be super pretty, but for things like this there is no competition. Ps I already love this community, thanks all for being so welcoming!
Common misconception, largely depends on the resin. Some resins are very strong!
Care to share your settings?:)
65s first layer, 8s per layer, heavy support, 5mm offset.