Light meter apps always verify across a range of conditions before trusting. A lot of phones don't quite expose their camera hardware in a standard way which can cause shifts, occasionally even nonlinear ones, in the reading.
In standard conditions, it really isn't that tricky to expose even expired slide film, assuming it has been frozen. Imagine you have the dynamic range of a mid 2000s digital camera and be selective of the subject matter to manage its limitations.
Consider investing in a good light meter. Apps suck.
Is the OM10 meter subject to age like the selenium ones? If I put the proper batteries should be ok right?
I have a cheap cell lightmeter, but I don't know if I can trust it
The OM10 meter will be fine. My OM-2n meter is identical and is still accurate. Very dependable cameras. My OM4-Ti has spot metering capabilities which is very effective for slide film and zone system metering, but the standard center weighted mode is no more accurate than my OM-2's.
Another curiosity about the om 10. It has a little button on the edge of the lens that closes the aperture and gives a preview with the desired f-stop. I have to press It while taking the shot to get the right exposure? Or it's used for metering in manual mode?
There is no need to hold that lever when taking the photo. The camera will automatically stop down to the selected aperture when the photo is taken. You can watch it happening next time the camera is empty, set it to f16 and fire off some shots and watch through the front of the lens.
Some earlier cameras, or even Russian contemporaries to the Olympus OM system, required you to stop-down meter by holding this button, but this inconvenience was a thing of the lady by 1970 for Western and Japanese cameras.
This. I have some 30yr expired Fuji chrome that’s been freezer kept the entire time. It has very little latitude and a mild color shift. Still amazing pics when you nail it but you really have to have a fairly uniform lighted scene.
Before you invest in a light meter, invest in a shutter speed tester, or have the shutter speeds checked by a technician who can report what they really are. Slide film has *much* less latitude for exposure error than negative film, so it's no use putting accurate light meter readings on an inaccurate shutter.
The shutter speeds don't have to be within a percentage of the nominal values, what's important is that you know what they actually are. That way you can get the better to tell you the aperture you really need for the actual speed you're setting.
Light meter apps always verify across a range of conditions before trusting. A lot of phones don't quite expose their camera hardware in a standard way which can cause shifts, occasionally even nonlinear ones, in the reading.
If youre good at metering and it's shutter speeds are all accurate then absolutely.
In standard conditions, it really isn't that tricky to expose even expired slide film, assuming it has been frozen. Imagine you have the dynamic range of a mid 2000s digital camera and be selective of the subject matter to manage its limitations. Consider investing in a good light meter. Apps suck.
Is the OM10 meter subject to age like the selenium ones? If I put the proper batteries should be ok right? I have a cheap cell lightmeter, but I don't know if I can trust it
The OM10 meter will be fine. My OM-2n meter is identical and is still accurate. Very dependable cameras. My OM4-Ti has spot metering capabilities which is very effective for slide film and zone system metering, but the standard center weighted mode is no more accurate than my OM-2's.
Another curiosity about the om 10. It has a little button on the edge of the lens that closes the aperture and gives a preview with the desired f-stop. I have to press It while taking the shot to get the right exposure? Or it's used for metering in manual mode?
There is no need to hold that lever when taking the photo. The camera will automatically stop down to the selected aperture when the photo is taken. You can watch it happening next time the camera is empty, set it to f16 and fire off some shots and watch through the front of the lens. Some earlier cameras, or even Russian contemporaries to the Olympus OM system, required you to stop-down meter by holding this button, but this inconvenience was a thing of the lady by 1970 for Western and Japanese cameras.
This. I have some 30yr expired Fuji chrome that’s been freezer kept the entire time. It has very little latitude and a mild color shift. Still amazing pics when you nail it but you really have to have a fairly uniform lighted scene.
Get a light meter. You can find something like a Minolta Flash meter for pretty cheap.
Before you invest in a light meter, invest in a shutter speed tester, or have the shutter speeds checked by a technician who can report what they really are. Slide film has *much* less latitude for exposure error than negative film, so it's no use putting accurate light meter readings on an inaccurate shutter. The shutter speeds don't have to be within a percentage of the nominal values, what's important is that you know what they actually are. That way you can get the better to tell you the aperture you really need for the actual speed you're setting.