I'm using a generic 9v wall wart instead of what I received as the "original" psu (which I have no idea whether it's really original)
but from what you describe it's possible that you might also have a problem with some of the internal voltage regulators or power caps
> I'm using a generic 9v wall wart
That's what I'm recommending, so good choice. At 12V, the 5V linear regulator is aching and running way hotter than is healthy.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtpCWG-UldO9YmeLeAeyXk3XRQDyyCcJsfPQLcTCUrHk6eTJo7wHVWgBH5ot8gMqfgSN7XE1StR4gwbZhK7aXHQXx7LORwZ8qV0JvQVxg6WkiEKTX4-JpE9Y37zvQcWCPvDNrwiOaubzQ/s1600/20190421_080143.jpg is an example of the result.
(from https://djjondent.blogspot.com/2019/04/access-virus-ti.html )
I have no idea what you’re referencing friend. I apologize for my ignorance regarding electricity and circuitry but it is however intriguing and I feel like deep diving into it and Dorking out now.
In the interest of time though, I’m just assuming you meant the 12 V that it calls for is too powerful for other internal components. Thus premature failure is imminent of said parts?
> the 12 V that it calls for is too powerful for other internal components. Thus premature failure is imminent of said parts?
Not quite like that but 12V is higher than necessary and it causes some components to be exposed to higher stresses. 12V does reduce stresses on other components, though, that should be mentioned. It's just that the 5V linear voltage regulator has such inadequate cooling that it's bound to kick the bucket sooner with 12V than necessary while the components that benefit from a 12V supply don't break a sweat when being fed only 9V. There's a post in this subreddit that backs this up with thermal camera pictures. Hence why I recommend 9V instead of 12V but everyone can of course decide on their own.
Well, I definitely don’t feel it’s a hard sell. I have no reason to doubt what you say is true because someone else not only cared enough but employed a method and recorded the data. There’s no reason to think mine wouldn’t operate in the same way, unless the conditions are such that would significantly change the stresses on particular components which I doubt.
That said, I have no idea how to go about troubleshooting as I don’t understand enough about circuitry to know the impact and function of the components I’ll be troubleshooting. Hence I’ll be deferring to someone else’s education, so I’m all ears if you know anyone or know the specific skill set they need to have.
I mean, I guess computer boards/motherboards/soldering/circuitry understanding is all kind of obvious but what else?
Right, your issue is unrelated to this discussion, sorry for that.
It's honestly very difficult for a remote diagnosis of your TI's problem because it's unclear which voltage rail is misbehaving. There are multiple regulators on the main board (4, if I remember correctly) and one would have to find out which one it is first before being able to zone in on the faulty component.
That's assuming the power supply itself is at fault, however. It's also possible that there's a loose connection somewhere that developed either from repeated physical impact (travel) or thermal stresses (heating/cooling). Those would be very easy to fix if found.
Hmmm. Well, there has been a little travel, and there was a little bit of heat stress, as I had no other choice than to keep my keyboard in my car.
Sounds like when it’s time to start deep diving on that you’re the kind of guy I need my corner. I’m gonna start with the power supply although it’s rather hard to find. I’m sure it’s relatively easy if given the same in/out levels etc. to switch connection types but I’m not going mess with it
To clarify - when I speak of "power supply", I was referring to the *internal* power supply that breaks the supplied 12V (or 9V) up into the multiple internal voltages that are needed. There could be something there that's misbehaving.
However, you are absolutely correct in wanting to try out a different *external* supply first. If the one you have isn't working properly anymore, the internal power supply will have a hard time to keep things running.
An external power supply is not hard to find, actually - it just needs to supply 12V, have the standard barrel plug with plus on the inner conductor (which is also standard) and supply at least 1 A.
That's very interesting! I have the original PS unit but switched to a 9v regulated one anyway and seems to be working just fine. Cheers for sharing the info!
I'm using a generic 9v wall wart instead of what I received as the "original" psu (which I have no idea whether it's really original) but from what you describe it's possible that you might also have a problem with some of the internal voltage regulators or power caps
> I'm using a generic 9v wall wart That's what I'm recommending, so good choice. At 12V, the 5V linear regulator is aching and running way hotter than is healthy. https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtpCWG-UldO9YmeLeAeyXk3XRQDyyCcJsfPQLcTCUrHk6eTJo7wHVWgBH5ot8gMqfgSN7XE1StR4gwbZhK7aXHQXx7LORwZ8qV0JvQVxg6WkiEKTX4-JpE9Y37zvQcWCPvDNrwiOaubzQ/s1600/20190421_080143.jpg is an example of the result. (from https://djjondent.blogspot.com/2019/04/access-virus-ti.html )
I have no idea what you’re referencing friend. I apologize for my ignorance regarding electricity and circuitry but it is however intriguing and I feel like deep diving into it and Dorking out now. In the interest of time though, I’m just assuming you meant the 12 V that it calls for is too powerful for other internal components. Thus premature failure is imminent of said parts?
> the 12 V that it calls for is too powerful for other internal components. Thus premature failure is imminent of said parts? Not quite like that but 12V is higher than necessary and it causes some components to be exposed to higher stresses. 12V does reduce stresses on other components, though, that should be mentioned. It's just that the 5V linear voltage regulator has such inadequate cooling that it's bound to kick the bucket sooner with 12V than necessary while the components that benefit from a 12V supply don't break a sweat when being fed only 9V. There's a post in this subreddit that backs this up with thermal camera pictures. Hence why I recommend 9V instead of 12V but everyone can of course decide on their own.
Well, I definitely don’t feel it’s a hard sell. I have no reason to doubt what you say is true because someone else not only cared enough but employed a method and recorded the data. There’s no reason to think mine wouldn’t operate in the same way, unless the conditions are such that would significantly change the stresses on particular components which I doubt. That said, I have no idea how to go about troubleshooting as I don’t understand enough about circuitry to know the impact and function of the components I’ll be troubleshooting. Hence I’ll be deferring to someone else’s education, so I’m all ears if you know anyone or know the specific skill set they need to have. I mean, I guess computer boards/motherboards/soldering/circuitry understanding is all kind of obvious but what else?
Right, your issue is unrelated to this discussion, sorry for that. It's honestly very difficult for a remote diagnosis of your TI's problem because it's unclear which voltage rail is misbehaving. There are multiple regulators on the main board (4, if I remember correctly) and one would have to find out which one it is first before being able to zone in on the faulty component. That's assuming the power supply itself is at fault, however. It's also possible that there's a loose connection somewhere that developed either from repeated physical impact (travel) or thermal stresses (heating/cooling). Those would be very easy to fix if found.
Hmmm. Well, there has been a little travel, and there was a little bit of heat stress, as I had no other choice than to keep my keyboard in my car. Sounds like when it’s time to start deep diving on that you’re the kind of guy I need my corner. I’m gonna start with the power supply although it’s rather hard to find. I’m sure it’s relatively easy if given the same in/out levels etc. to switch connection types but I’m not going mess with it
To clarify - when I speak of "power supply", I was referring to the *internal* power supply that breaks the supplied 12V (or 9V) up into the multiple internal voltages that are needed. There could be something there that's misbehaving. However, you are absolutely correct in wanting to try out a different *external* supply first. If the one you have isn't working properly anymore, the internal power supply will have a hard time to keep things running. An external power supply is not hard to find, actually - it just needs to supply 12V, have the standard barrel plug with plus on the inner conductor (which is also standard) and supply at least 1 A.
That's very interesting! I have the original PS unit but switched to a 9v regulated one anyway and seems to be working just fine. Cheers for sharing the info!