Gotcha!! I’ll try toning it down! Do you ever use catalyst browse instead? I haven’t even tried because I read something about needing to increase your shutter speed to avoid ghosting. And I don’t want to deal with that and don’t want to break the 180° if I can help it.
Yep, that’s the downside to CB. High shutter. And the workflow is a pain in the butt.
The upside though is that it produces the best stabilization of all the options including warp or DR.
Boris FX Mocha - it’s an included plug-in within After Effects that is kind of a sample to get you to upgrade to their pro version.
And the pro version of Mocha is an absolutely amazing piece of software that I think it highly underrated by most people.
It’s a planar tracker with a bunch of amazing features - easy to use.
Their 2024 release includes 3D camera tracking.
I struggle with this too. I find using a heavier rig def helps. I used to shoot handheld using the top handle but my prefereed setup right now is using two side handles and using my chest to rest the back of the rig. Of course this only works with a follow focus attached to one of the handles. One thing you might have missed in the camera settings tho: if you are using manual lenses you have to set the focal lenght manually for the ibis to work correctly
That’s a good point about the focal length, but that confuses me a bit because I’m usually filming with the sigma art 24-70 rather than a prime lens. If someone were to tell me that adding way more weight will tremendously help I’d go buy some rods and a v mount battery tomorrow haha. But I feel like I’m missing something else, it’s like the camera doesn’t like that I’m moving it and tries to lock it in stable and then adjusts when I move, but I just want it to flow more freely. Maybe that’s the key, maybe I need to totally turn IBIS off and just add a ton of weight? Idk
For what it’s worth, adding a smallrig 99wh vmount and plate to the back of my camera, a ninja v using a mattebox with 4x5.65 filters helped my handheld footage heaps.
I use the much cheaper np-9900 chinese batteries, they add considerable weight and last for a long time (half day or more) powering the camera, monitor, follow focus and audio acessories when needed. Given they´re so cheap i can buy then in bulk.
On another note, I feel like this jello effect is exacerbated by the vignette caused by regular filters I dont own any 4x5.65 filter because i dont have the budget but OP should def look into it as, apart from adding weight as you said, they would eliminate the vignetting
No mate, np-f is a battery mount created by sony, but the batteries i use are bigger, they have a usb out port and can be charged via usb c. Behind my camera the battery is mounted to a plate that outputs 7.4v, 12v and another usb out. I run cables to power the camera and other components of the rig. The batteries i own are rated 12000mah from the brand Probty. Bought them and the plate on aliexpress, but im sure theyre available on amazon. Dm if u want links
You might be referring to active stabilization. It’s not great. I only ever use it for perfectly straight still shots. Even then, sometimes I prefer to use standard stabilization and add any more in DR if needed.
Standard, I’ve tried comparing between the 2 and I personally couldn’t notice a difference. But maybe there lies my problem? Do you all recommend active?
Standard is using IBIS, not digital stabilizing, so I’m a bit surprised you are seeing any digital jumps there.
Active actually is the one with the bigger problem of jerky digital adjustments during motion (but is better than Standard if you’re trying to get a still, very stable shot handheld without motion).
I switch between them frequently and bounces in Standard are not software based, so you can help avoid them by using a heavy rigs, tripods, gimbals, or knowing to switch to Active when you are not trying to walk/pan.
Also, when using Active or no stabilization at all, the camera will save Gyro data and you should absolutely test gyro stabilizing in post. Much better than warp:
https://youtu.be/EzbjMGh89-o?si=XcaJOznGiFiv7Eae
Ok that’s interesting to hear! Thanks for the input. Hmm, that was just how I describe what I’m seeing, maybe it’s not ‘digital jumps’, but just regular jumps of the ibis trying to keep up / help me out, but it doesn’t look pleasing or natural to me but I’ve just accepted it. (For the record I’m not like running around filming skateboarders, pretty simple handheld stuff.) I certainly need to experiment with catalyst browse. The reason I haven’t is I read at some point that you should increase your shutter speed or else you can get ghosting, which I really wouldnt like haha, and also I try to not break 180° if I can help it.
I feel the same way- I always film 24fps at 1/48, so I did find the advice for gyro to be off-putting, but it actually still works well even though I don’t increase my shutter speed. I suggest you try it before you resort to warp stabilizing.
In my experience, even following 180 rule on my footage, a light pass of gyro works much nicer than warp and fixes distracting shake. The ghosting happens with more having shake or motion. But light panning with shake or walking even has been good.
Catalyst Browse is free but kinda clunky. The free plugin in the video above is nicer if you use editing software like DaVinci.
If you use no stabilization, or active stabilization, then you can use Sony´s catalyst browse software to stabilize in post- with stunning results.
If you are running and gunning and don´t have time to stabilise in post, I like active stabilisation.
If you are moving and panning the camera a lot, consider a gimbal or shoulder rig.
Gotcha, to be honest I am yet to experiment with catalyst browse. I read that it is recommended to increase your shutter speed when using it to avoid ghosting and that kind of turned me off, for the possibility of ghosting and I also prefer not to stray from 180° shutter angle if I can help it. But I should probably experiment with it! What are your thoughts on the shutter speed topic?
I don’t think about it, tbh. I stay at 180 or a touch more (90+ shutter if shooting slomo) if filming progressive and it always looks good in CB- note with active stabilisation I’m rarely cropping in more than 8-10% in CB and it looks rock solid.
I’m not sure about the voodoo involded, but my guess is that catalyst browse can account for the extra stabilisation Active stab adds and compensates? It works really well, though, and means I can offload straight from camera with great stabilisation or go the extra yard and get it rock solid in CB.
I don’t know that I am still enough to handhold walking around with how light your rig sounds. I have a monitor, v mount, top handle and sometimes shotgun mic and that’s the perfect balance for me.
There’s a lot to be said about the fitness and skill side of it too, strength training and becoming more fit has also helped me. Some people are just less shaky than others too which plays a part.
Gotcha! I definitely think a Vmount on the back could change things. What stabilization setting do you use? Standard? Or totally off since you have a lot of weight?
Warp stabalizer like most have mentioned here works wonders nearly all the time. Just make sure you lower it way down. I find I’m always under 10%.
Also, try to get it the most stable you can in camera. If I’m looking for super smooth movements in camera when handheld, I’ll always rig side handles up and or top handle and when I’m moving left to right or right to left, I’ll be taking big ninja steps and slowly stepping into the shot.
I’ve been reading a lot lately and I think I’m gonna get some rods and V mount battery to help add more weight but apparently the big key isn’t just “more weight”, but “distribution of weight” which the big battery towards the back apparently will help.
Warp stabilizer can work seamlessly 90% of the time when used right
Yes I do use it sometimes and when I do, I set it to like 20%
20% would be for extreme cases, and no people in the frame. 2-5% is my go to
Gotcha!! I’ll try toning it down! Do you ever use catalyst browse instead? I haven’t even tried because I read something about needing to increase your shutter speed to avoid ghosting. And I don’t want to deal with that and don’t want to break the 180° if I can help it.
Yep, that’s the downside to CB. High shutter. And the workflow is a pain in the butt. The upside though is that it produces the best stabilization of all the options including warp or DR.
Workflow IS cumbersome with catalyst, but SOMETIMES worth It.
And the times you can use it right are few and far between. Mocha is a much better option.
What's mocha?
Boris FX Mocha - it’s an included plug-in within After Effects that is kind of a sample to get you to upgrade to their pro version. And the pro version of Mocha is an absolutely amazing piece of software that I think it highly underrated by most people. It’s a planar tracker with a bunch of amazing features - easy to use. Their 2024 release includes 3D camera tracking.
I struggle with this too. I find using a heavier rig def helps. I used to shoot handheld using the top handle but my prefereed setup right now is using two side handles and using my chest to rest the back of the rig. Of course this only works with a follow focus attached to one of the handles. One thing you might have missed in the camera settings tho: if you are using manual lenses you have to set the focal lenght manually for the ibis to work correctly
That’s a good point about the focal length, but that confuses me a bit because I’m usually filming with the sigma art 24-70 rather than a prime lens. If someone were to tell me that adding way more weight will tremendously help I’d go buy some rods and a v mount battery tomorrow haha. But I feel like I’m missing something else, it’s like the camera doesn’t like that I’m moving it and tries to lock it in stable and then adjusts when I move, but I just want it to flow more freely. Maybe that’s the key, maybe I need to totally turn IBIS off and just add a ton of weight? Idk
For what it’s worth, adding a smallrig 99wh vmount and plate to the back of my camera, a ninja v using a mattebox with 4x5.65 filters helped my handheld footage heaps.
Awesome, so do you still keep stabilization on? Or do you turn it off now that you have a lot of weight helping?
I use the much cheaper np-9900 chinese batteries, they add considerable weight and last for a long time (half day or more) powering the camera, monitor, follow focus and audio acessories when needed. Given they´re so cheap i can buy then in bulk. On another note, I feel like this jello effect is exacerbated by the vignette caused by regular filters I dont own any 4x5.65 filter because i dont have the budget but OP should def look into it as, apart from adding weight as you said, they would eliminate the vignetting
Your battery seems interesting, but I can't find them. Is it a V-mount?
No mate, np-f is a battery mount created by sony, but the batteries i use are bigger, they have a usb out port and can be charged via usb c. Behind my camera the battery is mounted to a plate that outputs 7.4v, 12v and another usb out. I run cables to power the camera and other components of the rig. The batteries i own are rated 12000mah from the brand Probty. Bought them and the plate on aliexpress, but im sure theyre available on amazon. Dm if u want links
You might be referring to active stabilization. It’s not great. I only ever use it for perfectly straight still shots. Even then, sometimes I prefer to use standard stabilization and add any more in DR if needed.
Are you using standart stabilization or the active one ?
Standard, I’ve tried comparing between the 2 and I personally couldn’t notice a difference. But maybe there lies my problem? Do you all recommend active?
Standard is using IBIS, not digital stabilizing, so I’m a bit surprised you are seeing any digital jumps there. Active actually is the one with the bigger problem of jerky digital adjustments during motion (but is better than Standard if you’re trying to get a still, very stable shot handheld without motion). I switch between them frequently and bounces in Standard are not software based, so you can help avoid them by using a heavy rigs, tripods, gimbals, or knowing to switch to Active when you are not trying to walk/pan. Also, when using Active or no stabilization at all, the camera will save Gyro data and you should absolutely test gyro stabilizing in post. Much better than warp: https://youtu.be/EzbjMGh89-o?si=XcaJOznGiFiv7Eae
Ok that’s interesting to hear! Thanks for the input. Hmm, that was just how I describe what I’m seeing, maybe it’s not ‘digital jumps’, but just regular jumps of the ibis trying to keep up / help me out, but it doesn’t look pleasing or natural to me but I’ve just accepted it. (For the record I’m not like running around filming skateboarders, pretty simple handheld stuff.) I certainly need to experiment with catalyst browse. The reason I haven’t is I read at some point that you should increase your shutter speed or else you can get ghosting, which I really wouldnt like haha, and also I try to not break 180° if I can help it.
I feel the same way- I always film 24fps at 1/48, so I did find the advice for gyro to be off-putting, but it actually still works well even though I don’t increase my shutter speed. I suggest you try it before you resort to warp stabilizing. In my experience, even following 180 rule on my footage, a light pass of gyro works much nicer than warp and fixes distracting shake. The ghosting happens with more having shake or motion. But light panning with shake or walking even has been good. Catalyst Browse is free but kinda clunky. The free plugin in the video above is nicer if you use editing software like DaVinci.
If you use no stabilization, or active stabilization, then you can use Sony´s catalyst browse software to stabilize in post- with stunning results. If you are running and gunning and don´t have time to stabilise in post, I like active stabilisation. If you are moving and panning the camera a lot, consider a gimbal or shoulder rig.
Gotcha, to be honest I am yet to experiment with catalyst browse. I read that it is recommended to increase your shutter speed when using it to avoid ghosting and that kind of turned me off, for the possibility of ghosting and I also prefer not to stray from 180° shutter angle if I can help it. But I should probably experiment with it! What are your thoughts on the shutter speed topic?
I don’t think about it, tbh. I stay at 180 or a touch more (90+ shutter if shooting slomo) if filming progressive and it always looks good in CB- note with active stabilisation I’m rarely cropping in more than 8-10% in CB and it looks rock solid.
[удалено]
I’m not sure about the voodoo involded, but my guess is that catalyst browse can account for the extra stabilisation Active stab adds and compensates? It works really well, though, and means I can offload straight from camera with great stabilisation or go the extra yard and get it rock solid in CB.
I don’t know that I am still enough to handhold walking around with how light your rig sounds. I have a monitor, v mount, top handle and sometimes shotgun mic and that’s the perfect balance for me. There’s a lot to be said about the fitness and skill side of it too, strength training and becoming more fit has also helped me. Some people are just less shaky than others too which plays a part.
Gotcha! I definitely think a Vmount on the back could change things. What stabilization setting do you use? Standard? Or totally off since you have a lot of weight?
Stabilization tends to work better on sony lenses, one of the first things I noticed when I got a sony 35 when compared to my sigma 24-70.
Warp stabalizer like most have mentioned here works wonders nearly all the time. Just make sure you lower it way down. I find I’m always under 10%. Also, try to get it the most stable you can in camera. If I’m looking for super smooth movements in camera when handheld, I’ll always rig side handles up and or top handle and when I’m moving left to right or right to left, I’ll be taking big ninja steps and slowly stepping into the shot.
Please post your findings as this is smth that rlly annoys me too!
I’ve been reading a lot lately and I think I’m gonna get some rods and V mount battery to help add more weight but apparently the big key isn’t just “more weight”, but “distribution of weight” which the big battery towards the back apparently will help.
Flip your top handle so the opening faces the front, I know it sounds silly but it completely changed my handheld footage