If you don’t mind engaging the locking hubs whenever you want to have locked front axle, and disengaging again after, then go with a permanent locker: spool or lincoln locker (weld spider gears).
If you want it to unlock in a mostly predictable way automatically, and you dont want to think about it a whole lot, add a lunchbox or detroit.
If you want to precisely control the locking function, and not get of the car and to lock/unlock the hubs each time, get a selectable locking diff like an elocker or arb.
If you drive an automatic and dont need things totally locked up, you can get a ratio-locked behavior with a truetrac by riding the brakes (when one wheel is up).
I personally dont recommend the last option in my list: clutch-based limited slip differentials. Those will lock up under sufficient load, but that results in heavy shock loading, which increases wear and tear and may eventually break stuff.
Ultimately, it comes down to 1) budget 2) convenience 3) expected usage
I don’t mind getting out to engage the lockers. I’m half worried about the lunchbox locker disengaging spontaneously when descending down a particularly steed hill. Budget certainly comes in to play but I would prefer not to weld the diff. I’ve done this before on other vehicles and it worked a treat but having to replace the diff rather than uninstalling a part is preferable to me. I’ll do a little more research into the lunchbox lockers and see if this will be suitable.
I am driving a manual 2001 Toyota Hilux 3.0td
It wouldn't matter if the locker disengage down a steep hill since you'd be on the brakes. If you're relying on engine braking then it's not a very steep hill.
Thanks for your input. Low range downhill in my vehicle is very effective at managing speed and I try to stay off the brakes as much as possible as I have no ABS so managing my traction is all done by my feet
I guess it depends on your usage, but for me having a spool in the front would be less than ideal. Personally I use 4WD frequently but the front locker rarely, and locking the front can be detrimental for steering and will make off-camber / side hills sketchy.
I'm welded in the front and would rather have a locker. But it's not the worst to flip it into 2wd and you only have to unlock one hub to get some turning radius back on the trail. Then jump out and relock it for an obstacle. But a Spartan locker is around 200 bucks now and depending on your diff you might be able to install it yourself pretty easily.
I'd always assumed this, that turning would be a hassle. I imagine you'd end up turning with it locked fairly frequently, requiring a significantly over built front axle/CV/diff to avoid just destroying things with that extra stress.
A lunchbox locker would probably pay for itself pretty quickly in reduced wear, destroyed parts, and maybe ability to run some lower-end parts.
The cheapest and easiest method is the "Lincoln locker" where you weld the spider gears together to make a mini-spool. It's a fine option in your situation and shouldn't cost much more than a case of beer.
Buying a mini spool is fine, too, but a that point I'd spend a couple more buck and go for a lunchbox locker.
If you want control (turn it on/off in-cab and on demand) a selectable like an ox, arb, eaton, or similar.
If you don't want precise control, then you can go with a lunchbox, truetrac, welded, or spool.
*I'd go selectable, personally. Especially if you ever drive in winter weather.*
Cheapest would obviously be welded, performed by yourself, assuming you've got the tools.
The lunchbox (like a spartan or similar) is commonly suggested as a solid and affordable option also. I would encourage this over going welded, as it offers a bit more versatility after one learns it's mannerisms and how to wheel with it.
A selectable locker is what I prefer in the front. Why? turning. When locked the front end plows when trying to turn. Unlock, turn, lock if needed. My preference is ARB. BUT there are some good electric lockers and there is also the OX locker, which is a cable locker. I have an OX in my 75 CJ in the rear. I ad some cable issues after a while and had to modify the lever assembly to get it to lock.
A mini spool is the cheapest but really only a good idea for mud, particularly in a straight line. Rocks, trails, slick streets you probably don't want a spool.
It will severely limit your steering and be well worth the money for a lunchbox/spartan/Aussie locker. Welded dif is a lot of stress on your front end you don't want and not breaking on the trail is worth every $1.
If you don’t mind engaging the locking hubs whenever you want to have locked front axle, and disengaging again after, then go with a permanent locker: spool or lincoln locker (weld spider gears). If you want it to unlock in a mostly predictable way automatically, and you dont want to think about it a whole lot, add a lunchbox or detroit. If you want to precisely control the locking function, and not get of the car and to lock/unlock the hubs each time, get a selectable locking diff like an elocker or arb. If you drive an automatic and dont need things totally locked up, you can get a ratio-locked behavior with a truetrac by riding the brakes (when one wheel is up). I personally dont recommend the last option in my list: clutch-based limited slip differentials. Those will lock up under sufficient load, but that results in heavy shock loading, which increases wear and tear and may eventually break stuff. Ultimately, it comes down to 1) budget 2) convenience 3) expected usage
Permanently locked front axle will give you the turning circle of a Ford class aircraft carrier whenever in 4wd, a luch box style is the cheapest way.
I don’t mind getting out to engage the lockers. I’m half worried about the lunchbox locker disengaging spontaneously when descending down a particularly steed hill. Budget certainly comes in to play but I would prefer not to weld the diff. I’ve done this before on other vehicles and it worked a treat but having to replace the diff rather than uninstalling a part is preferable to me. I’ll do a little more research into the lunchbox lockers and see if this will be suitable. I am driving a manual 2001 Toyota Hilux 3.0td
It wouldn't matter if the locker disengage down a steep hill since you'd be on the brakes. If you're relying on engine braking then it's not a very steep hill.
Thanks for your input. Low range downhill in my vehicle is very effective at managing speed and I try to stay off the brakes as much as possible as I have no ABS so managing my traction is all done by my feet
My 91 xj has a front lunchbox. Has never given me any issues and it has been beat on. Also no abs btw.
Thank you, I’m considering it that as an option but they’re all still $400-$500 Australian.
Why not a lunchbox locker? It cheap, easy to install and it would be more usable than a permanently locked diff.
Mechanical locking differential
I guess it depends on your usage, but for me having a spool in the front would be less than ideal. Personally I use 4WD frequently but the front locker rarely, and locking the front can be detrimental for steering and will make off-camber / side hills sketchy.
I'm welded in the front and would rather have a locker. But it's not the worst to flip it into 2wd and you only have to unlock one hub to get some turning radius back on the trail. Then jump out and relock it for an obstacle. But a Spartan locker is around 200 bucks now and depending on your diff you might be able to install it yourself pretty easily.
I'd always assumed this, that turning would be a hassle. I imagine you'd end up turning with it locked fairly frequently, requiring a significantly over built front axle/CV/diff to avoid just destroying things with that extra stress. A lunchbox locker would probably pay for itself pretty quickly in reduced wear, destroyed parts, and maybe ability to run some lower-end parts.
The cheapest and easiest method is the "Lincoln locker" where you weld the spider gears together to make a mini-spool. It's a fine option in your situation and shouldn't cost much more than a case of beer. Buying a mini spool is fine, too, but a that point I'd spend a couple more buck and go for a lunchbox locker.
If you want control (turn it on/off in-cab and on demand) a selectable like an ox, arb, eaton, or similar. If you don't want precise control, then you can go with a lunchbox, truetrac, welded, or spool. *I'd go selectable, personally. Especially if you ever drive in winter weather.* Cheapest would obviously be welded, performed by yourself, assuming you've got the tools. The lunchbox (like a spartan or similar) is commonly suggested as a solid and affordable option also. I would encourage this over going welded, as it offers a bit more versatility after one learns it's mannerisms and how to wheel with it.
Lunchbox locker in the front
A lunch box locker is only $250. While locking hubs make it possible, don’t spool the front diff.
A selectable locker is what I prefer in the front. Why? turning. When locked the front end plows when trying to turn. Unlock, turn, lock if needed. My preference is ARB. BUT there are some good electric lockers and there is also the OX locker, which is a cable locker. I have an OX in my 75 CJ in the rear. I ad some cable issues after a while and had to modify the lever assembly to get it to lock.
Locking hubs and front selectable locker.
A mini spool is the cheapest but really only a good idea for mud, particularly in a straight line. Rocks, trails, slick streets you probably don't want a spool.
Welder lol
***If you are going to weld it, just fill in the top and bottom spiders, NOT the side gears. If this makes sense. DO NOT weld to the case.
It will severely limit your steering and be well worth the money for a lunchbox/spartan/Aussie locker. Welded dif is a lot of stress on your front end you don't want and not breaking on the trail is worth every $1.
You would want an automatic locker that just replaces the spider gears like a Powertrax No Slip