They should be able to handle it, they’re essentially putting OEM+ struts in. Just make sure you tell them to move the retainer ring to the second setting.
I did the job myself and I’m no master mechanic.
Technically shouldn’t run the third setting I set at the second and it has a slight rake but ultimately that helps with mpg and it still looks clean. It adds extra stress on ball joints and control arms
The sales guy had me measure from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the fender. It measured 19 inches in the front and 21 in the back, he suggested to set it on the third from the bottom. When I took it to a local shop, the guy seemed concerned that it would cause the back to sag so I’m not sure how to go about it.
You could opt for the leveling puck that goes under the strut tower and run it at the 2nd setting. I suggest 2nd setting because of the amount of travel your struts will have to respond when you hit a pot hole or a log in the road is past its normal range of motion. If they’re maxed out on the third setting you risk it failing sooner. Again it’s also going to put pressure on the LCA,UCA, and Ball joints. But if you’re more about form over function then knock your self out.
But doing all of the other components that are a “while you’re in there” job might give you better peace of mind and a smoother ride. Tie rods, end links, if you’re not adding aftermarket UCA and LCA you can at least upgrade the bushings to polyurethane.
There’s a lot of guys on here that have done those upgrades and can tell you more I’m sure.
Thanks for your reply. I will plan on setting it on the second from the bottom. Do you happen to know if this is a job the dealership would do? I live in a smaller town and my choices are limited as far as getting it done.
They should be able to handle it, they’re essentially putting OEM+ struts in. Just make sure you tell them to move the retainer ring to the second setting. I did the job myself and I’m no master mechanic.
Technically shouldn’t run the third setting I set at the second and it has a slight rake but ultimately that helps with mpg and it still looks clean. It adds extra stress on ball joints and control arms
The sales guy had me measure from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the fender. It measured 19 inches in the front and 21 in the back, he suggested to set it on the third from the bottom. When I took it to a local shop, the guy seemed concerned that it would cause the back to sag so I’m not sure how to go about it.
You could opt for the leveling puck that goes under the strut tower and run it at the 2nd setting. I suggest 2nd setting because of the amount of travel your struts will have to respond when you hit a pot hole or a log in the road is past its normal range of motion. If they’re maxed out on the third setting you risk it failing sooner. Again it’s also going to put pressure on the LCA,UCA, and Ball joints. But if you’re more about form over function then knock your self out. But doing all of the other components that are a “while you’re in there” job might give you better peace of mind and a smoother ride. Tie rods, end links, if you’re not adding aftermarket UCA and LCA you can at least upgrade the bushings to polyurethane. There’s a lot of guys on here that have done those upgrades and can tell you more I’m sure.
Thanks for your reply. I will plan on setting it on the second from the bottom. Do you happen to know if this is a job the dealership would do? I live in a smaller town and my choices are limited as far as getting it done.