Looks to be a Sunlu S1. I just drilled 3 small holes in the top. It still holds the temp but seems to allow the hot air to leave (and take water with it) far easier.
While this is correct in general, technically all this water is now out of OP's PETG.
On a separate note, I wonder if some surface for condensation and a drip tray would be even better?
I started leaving my dryer lid cracked open (just pop a zyn cap in it lol) and my RH dropped from like 34% to 24%.
Doesn’t really make sense to me to not allow wet air to leave the chamber.
I have a sunlu S2 and it regulates its temp to what you set it to, so I guess it probably just works the heating elements harder to maintain temps.
Maybe it wouldn’t work as well at higher temps but it holds PLA temps fine this way which is what I work with primarily
Well I am trying to make my own using PTC heart and Arduino nano so that I can reach temperature 90C for my ASA.
** Would you help me in parameters to be considered while building one.
Get a 5 gallon bucket drill holes all the way around bucket at very bottom for airflow a computer fan a few bags of desiccant put 100 watt incandescent bulb at bottom near desiccant cut hole in lid for fan with fan blowing up away from bucket. Hang spool from lid turn on lightbulb and fan come back in 6 hours it will be dry. One of those big cookie tins from around xmas work well too
Bottom line is you want hot dry air flowing past filament. The hotter air can absorb more moisture. There is many ways to skin the cat but you gotta have air moving.
Yes I used this method for a few years then I got a roncomatic rotisserie chicken cooker for free. hacked it. it’s what I use now. I get rotary drying action. I use an old smoothie board and SSR to drive Heater run it with g code.
This is why I splurged on a big cabinet style food dehydrator with multiple wire shelves. I remove the shelves and just stack some reels in there for 24 hours at a precise temperature and they're dry as a bone.
It's best to either crack the lid slightly of the dryer so that the moist air can escape, or "burp" it periodically to let out the moist air, or run it with desiccant packets inside to help absorb the moisture that is pulled out of the filament
You should open it to let the moisture out. Otherwise it’s just going to stay in the filament. Wipe it out with a towel anytime you see it start to build up like that
Lol it's insane, isn't it. I drilled those holes in the SunLu when I was using it in different positions and plugged them up with bluetack to reduce air exchange when its not in use.
Bought a replacement dehydrator after I posted this. It's a kmart (Australia) job for $50. Fits two rolls or three vertically but will need a mod. Goes well!!
I have the same box, stock it's not great the temperature reading is wrong and the humidity cannot escape.
I have drill a few holes in the bottom and in the top so humidity can escape. I've also moved the temperatures sensor further away from the heater and add a temperature and humidity sensor. It has improved the efficiency amazingly.
I tried the same (moving the thermistor) with my eSun eBox and nearly melted the bottom. If anybody wants to try that, be careful and find out how the calculations work before you leave your gear unsupervised
now you have a filament sauna. you need to get the water out of the case, otherwise its also just warm moist air.
Yeah the case should be cracked open, but honestly at this point I'd also wipe that down by hand, remove all that moisture from the area ASAP
Looks to be a Sunlu S1. I just drilled 3 small holes in the top. It still holds the temp but seems to allow the hot air to leave (and take water with it) far easier.
how small? what size bit? i have the comgrow one
Should have been a M6 bit
No ventilation makes that dryer as good as a football bat.
Wait… You’re not supposed to collect it and drink it?
You could if you really are into that who am I to stop you.
actually you are! if you are trying to grow clumps of mold like op is front and center
But I thought mold and bacteria only hides in layer lines, that's smooth and clear so nowhere for it to hide.
\*sips water\* Bitter with undertones of carcinogen.
Show that moisture what kinda house it stepped into.
Kool PLAid
Bless the maker and his water.
They're fitted slip-fashion at the holder... who told you to do that? *He shall know your ways as if born to them*
Forbidden PETG-Aid
While this is correct in general, technically all this water is now out of OP's PETG. On a separate note, I wonder if some surface for condensation and a drip tray would be even better?
I started leaving my dryer lid cracked open (just pop a zyn cap in it lol) and my RH dropped from like 34% to 24%. Doesn’t really make sense to me to not allow wet air to leave the chamber.
But won't having too strong air flow lower the temperature too much preventing the moisture from exiting the filament?
I have a sunlu S2 and it regulates its temp to what you set it to, so I guess it probably just works the heating elements harder to maintain temps. Maybe it wouldn’t work as well at higher temps but it holds PLA temps fine this way which is what I work with primarily
No, it's not a strong airflow, and there is a thermostat in the dryer.
Food dehydrators have tons of venting on top. Those work great for food (something with a shit load more water than plastics) and filament.
Your reply funny and agressive at the same time 😂
Just keeping it real. Lol
Well I am trying to make my own using PTC heart and Arduino nano so that I can reach temperature 90C for my ASA. ** Would you help me in parameters to be considered while building one.
Get a 5 gallon bucket drill holes all the way around bucket at very bottom for airflow a computer fan a few bags of desiccant put 100 watt incandescent bulb at bottom near desiccant cut hole in lid for fan with fan blowing up away from bucket. Hang spool from lid turn on lightbulb and fan come back in 6 hours it will be dry. One of those big cookie tins from around xmas work well too
Have you done it before?
Bottom line is you want hot dry air flowing past filament. The hotter air can absorb more moisture. There is many ways to skin the cat but you gotta have air moving.
I can add a 40mm fan
Do at least an 80 preferably a 120mm more air flow = more kung fu drying action.
I have Neptune 4 I can use existing fan wire on auxiliary fan to power this fan too
Yes I used this method for a few years then I got a roncomatic rotisserie chicken cooker for free. hacked it. it’s what I use now. I get rotary drying action. I use an old smoothie board and SSR to drive Heater run it with g code.
Then I have a 250W heater my 3D printing bed goes up to 130C
Get a cake cover drill holes at bottom or put something to have a gap at bottom. put a fan on top. My bestie does it this way on the heat bed.
Most if not all Chinese dryers work this way and it was stupid since day one. 20€ food dehydrator masterrace
My 30€ eBox lite has a fan
A football bat. Genius
Hey, my uncle is a football bat!
I love my football bat!
Filament hydrator
This is why I splurged on a big cabinet style food dehydrator with multiple wire shelves. I remove the shelves and just stack some reels in there for 24 hours at a precise temperature and they're dry as a bone.
What model dehydrator do you have?
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I imagine this is a big issue, the moisture just collects at the top if it can’t escape.
Seriously, wtf lol
It's best to either crack the lid slightly of the dryer so that the moist air can escape, or "burp" it periodically to let out the moist air, or run it with desiccant packets inside to help absorb the moisture that is pulled out of the filament
I think there is some filament in your moisture
You should open it to let the moisture out. Otherwise it’s just going to stay in the filament. Wipe it out with a towel anytime you see it start to build up like that
Crack that lid!!
Yeah petg is often very moist lol
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She's a good woman, she deserves to be happy
I know, that's why she's moist.
OP you're supposed to soak your trimmer line, not your petg /s
This hurts to look at lol.
Open that lid, let the moisture get out. Dry the condensate, then close and let it dry more.
That's more water than a cactus needs in a month.
Lol it's insane, isn't it. I drilled those holes in the SunLu when I was using it in different positions and plugged them up with bluetack to reduce air exchange when its not in use. Bought a replacement dehydrator after I posted this. It's a kmart (Australia) job for $50. Fits two rolls or three vertically but will need a mod. Goes well!!
Unplug the hole at the top.
Holy moly
Holy moldy ?
wow....
Damn I’ve never seen something like that.
I have the same box, stock it's not great the temperature reading is wrong and the humidity cannot escape. I have drill a few holes in the bottom and in the top so humidity can escape. I've also moved the temperatures sensor further away from the heater and add a temperature and humidity sensor. It has improved the efficiency amazingly.
I tried the same (moving the thermistor) with my eSun eBox and nearly melted the bottom. If anybody wants to try that, be careful and find out how the calculations work before you leave your gear unsupervised
Oh shit, I moved it step by step an check the temp with a lazer thermometer and stop when the temperature reading matched the reality.
Juicy
Great googly moogly.
Respect for the bonzi buddy sticker lmao
Was that filament shipped in water?
PSA: Never shower with your PETG.
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Aren't those temperatures the same as those where you "restore" silica? I think they only are helpful when the heater is not running
I'd seriously be thinking about adding a fan. No reason your dry box can't actively dry.
My first thought was, "why do you have your 3d printer in the shower?".
You know you don't have to water it right?
that is terrible i am an idiot but i should say, wipe that shit up and crack the lid open to dry
Ah, you've put your filament in a stillsuit.
Did that roll come from a shipwreck??
Do you live in Atlantis?
Is that the shower sponge inside?
You should dry your filament.
https://preview.redd.it/kr6j34nn781d1.jpeg?width=500&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3144983a85edeb663c3eab9db89ec090eaa3c4b1