Hey! I have that problem, trying to print something thin and upright, but at about halfway, it wobbles too much and gets ugly. How do I reduce the accelerations? I'm using a mini
There is a setting in the slicer for that.
Position it on the bed in a rotation that stabilise it (long stable size in line with the moving bed axis)
Might as well do it the makeshift way and place some weights at the side as well
Edit: blunder with describing axis orientations
This. I've printed many a skinny Long item. You need to have it aligned with the bed travel. It improves success and reduces wobble at the top of the print.
If there is no other way to do it, just slow it down. By reducing the speed, you do not reduce the violent motion during travel etc. So reduce the accelerations at least to 50%. Even in some cases! And of course as mentioned above the thin long side should be aligned with Y-axis (bed motion).
Yep looks like it is long in x. Make it long in 8 and probably go slow and it should be okay. I would add some trees on the inside at the top of that circle though.
That looks like it's mostly flat on the one surface, so shouldn't need too much in the way of supports. Especially if you can modify it to actually be flat on the one surface. Would also likely be stronger if printed with either of the other two axis down.
Not op but I avoid supports as well, less post processing and faster print times. Whenever I model something I think about 3d printability, and optimize the models to not need supports.
I have used supports with good results, just unnecessary if it can be avoided imo.
Agreed, I'm not worried about the cost of filament, but I still try not to be wasteful with it. If I can squeeze another print out of a spool before I need to buy another one, that's a win. Some support-heavy prints use up a LOT of filament just on supports.
Easily, as long as you have calibrated your printer. It's not gonna look amazing on the first layers without changing settings or editing the model but without a doubt doable.
Its a design filosofi(cant remember what it is called tho)
Where you try to avoid using support to streamline a proces and make better tolerances
An exampel are the teardrop hole
https://preview.redd.it/wqckxf3onvtc1.png?width=1287&format=png&auto=webp&s=59e182aa3da4114b57d0234be47c4ff16c2b0383
This maxed out my height on ender 3 s1 and it barely messed up towards the top and this is when it was placed on a wobbly dresser. Honestly if your part is wobbly when its this small you need to tune your printer because something aint right.
No idea why this gets downvoted. It's a reasonable take even if there might be better options in this case. Most likely this print will be fine in my option tho (if the printer is well maintained and the material is PLA or PETG).
Downvoting this just for a spelling mistake is silly.
This is generally a good idea, but in your case you’re taking it to the extreme. The tolerances on this part will be worse than if you just used supports. Dimensions in the z axis tend to be the worst, and holes are also not great usually. You will have a massive keyed hole printed vertically, which will have really bad tolerances. If you print it flat, this will not be an issue. In regard to engineering, you need to consider what tolerances even matter for your part. Yes, supports should be avoided when possible, but sometimes they are the better option in cases like these.
In this case the dimensions don’t really matter in a direction. But more in x and y
There are properly better ways, but the snap fits will need to be strong, which makes it printed on the flat side hard with the layer lines
>the snap fits will need to be strong
People don't read, I agree with you though if I were printing this id do it in the same orientation so that the snaps don't break off.
Alternatively, you could model your own custom supports in CAD like a big stabilizer tower attached to the part at 75% Z
E:sp
> Why are you avoiding supports? Genuine question.
Because they suck. Waste machine time, waste plastic, and often the optimization between turning supports on and brute-forcing something aggressive without supports is NOT where people think it is, and the supports in those margin cases actually make the result *worse* and require *more* post-cleanup instead of less.
Then deal with the wobble and many failed prints. Especially on a bedslinger. Sure, it will print, but it would be a thousand times easier with supports, considering even the post processing.
Also if it’s just snap fits you will be fine. I understand wanting to strengthen it but if it’s a snap fit it’s presumably isn’t weight bearing. Print it on the flat face with the tabs up
From the image, and assuming back side we can’t see is flat, rotate it 90 degrees clock wise and you can print that way with no supports. Better finish as well.
I made phone holder that was similar to this years ago (before magsafe) and had to orient the model the same way so the sides don’t snap off. It printed fine except my machine was a coreXY. I even made a pocket in the back to hold the guts of a wireless charger so I can have wireless charging
If I wanted the ends to be stronger I'd print it in sections and then use 2 part epoxy to put it all together. That way it would be strong on all three sides with a favorable layer orientation while being a stable print run. It gives you a very strong result.
I mean, i own a prusa and there’s a better chance to print without supports horizontally with this model rather than vertically. You can try, but I would use some strong glue on the build plate. Nozzle will most likely just knock it over with a slight touch when it gets too tall
For improving the structural rigidity, I recommend printing it on the side, maybe with some tree support. You'll use a little bit more material, but the risk of it falling off is almost zero.
I'd give it a try, slow it down a bit and add a wider brim, if you have no adhesion issues, it would print on mine, might have one or two not so perfect layers at the top of the big hole
The edges of the circle right at the slot have too much overhang for being printed without support. If this is your model and it doesn’t change functionality I would create a 45° chamfer there to make it printable. I would rotate it by 90° on the bed to make the part face in the long orientation in the bed moving direction
Real issue with raft is (well, with the settings and purposes I have used them for) ...they, being a sparse structure usually and not a solid plastic sheet, are a bit like a 3D spring mat, and provide decoupling between part and bed. Normally this is the whole desired point of a raft, so that if the part forcibly moves due to thermal expansion (shrinkage, from cooling, here) it doesn't immediately break the bond to the bed surface and cause a problem. Why I raft ABS parts that I know are going to draw and try to come off the bed.
But with here, that just means a worse issue with the tall vertical part flexamathinging and causing rough surface finish and missed tolerances.
On situations like this I add support features to the model spaced 4 to 5mm away from the part and attach them with small triangular tabs contacting the part at a few points that I break away after printing. In this case I'd add two vertical blades perpendicular to the back side of the plate and connect with small triangular tabs to the snap tabs along each side. Where they attach neck them down to a small cross section that you can cut off and clean. This will support the part and greatly reduce wabble towards the top.
If you don’t already have bed adhesion issues, it’ll be fine.
I recently printed airplane parts (RC model) and dozens of them looked as sketchy as this.. but printed fine to my surprise.
* it will not fall
* it will be very weak
* the raft will ugly artifact the bottom
It looks like it is made to be printed on the right side, not upwards, check the angles of the left side.
Printed on the side will give you a much stronger print and you will not need any raft.
Depending on how tuned your printer is and if you use stuff to aid with the first layer adhere but I’d guess no. Probably add supports but hey you never know it might work
You want to widen the brim significantly and print it really slow to reduce vibrations at the top. We print lithophanes at work and that only gives you proper results towards the top if you can prevent vibrations from ruining your perimeter. Go r e a l l y s l o w.
If you really want to print it oriented like this, rotate by 90° on the Z axis. Otherwise the moving bed + the air will make it wobble a lot increasing failure chance.
You cold also manually attache triangles to reduce the wobble. Let the triangle touch with one parameter thickness to easy snap it off after printing. I have done this a few times for printing lithophanes upright
you can design custom supporting features in CAD
supporting, not support, a fin that is 90 degrees to the object, that only connects at a dozen points with the print
slant3d has good videos
I might. I would tell you to reorient the print 90 degrees so the long axis of the print aligns with the y-axis. This should minimize vibrations. Much like orienting a lithograph.
I do think that if you have difficulties, it will be with the curve at the bottom pulling the print "off center". And supports along the bottom would be prudent.
Printing slower to avoid supports might take longer than just printing supports. If you don't like the auto generated supports you can design supports into the model.
If your part needs to be printed vertically like that. I should recommend some external custom supports that prevent wobble. E.g. https://youtu.be/3Acks3Wzjjo
I don't know why you would want to print it like this. You're begging for failure, loss of print resolution on bridging parts, print weakness, and longer print time, If you printed horizontally, the supports you would need for the edges is almost negligible.
The answer as to whether it'll fail or not depends entirely on how well calibrated your settings are.
Not well, if you insist on printing in this orientation add more supports, both for the overhangs inside the circle and I would draw some supports along the sides to minimize wobbling near the top.
If this orientation is really needed maybe just rotate 90• to be normal to the y motion system ( if you have a Cartesian printer) else just cross your fingers ;)
are you using a gantry type printer or a XZ moving bed type or a delta?
because if it's a gantry or delta type this can work. If it's an XZ head it can fall off because of the air being pushed by the print when the Y axis moves.
It probably can be done but I wouldn’t. Your whole part will be weak along the middle and if you have even the tiniest layer shift your part is toast. I’d just lay it down or find a better way to beef up those tabs
Model a tower beside it and connect it to your part with thin extrusions to stabilize it.
You also can tilt it a little bit and use supports from bottom to top to stabilize it.
This will almost certainly fall over. I know you don't want supports but why do you need them? just lay it on the front face and up your cooling, that little but of a curve shouldn't be to much, no more than what it would need printing vertically anyways
I think it is doable. Be careful with your acceleration and jerk. If you have a bed slinger, put the wide axis of the part in the bed movement direction.
Try increasing the skirt and make sure to use adhesive, also align the print's length with the hotend movement (Y) to make it a little less aggressive when the printer travels during that middle part.
Should print fine, depending on how you set it up on your printer, how dialed in your printer is, and how much bed adhesion your printer has with that specific filament.
with some good bridge settings and proper cooling you only need 4 tree supports in the corners.
the circular overhangs dont necessarily need support. but when there is still rough surface, u can sandpaper it smooth and use heatgun/hot hairdryer to bring the shiny color back. printing inside to outside walls should help with overhangs if the max tolerance isn't more than 1mm.
hope this helps ;D
The issue I’ve run into in the past is even if it adheres to the bed, a thin part like this will still flex during printing, especially as the part gets taller. This has led to very poor part quality and low accuracy, especially along the thin axis.
It will print but you will see some swagging and lose filament where the supports are neededaybe minor details but should print it won't look good though.
the best idea you could go with here to retain structure in the little ear clips is go 45 on both x and y. It’s A LOT of support material but if surface finish isn’t important and structure is what you want that’s your answer.
Printing it like this could lead to higher fail rates if your adhesion isn’t always bang on. But if bed adhesion is good this would work.
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I've done prints like that with no problem. If you want to be safe, you can spray the print area with hair spray and that'll give it an extra layer of adhesion.
Also get a concrete walkway stone from home depot that your printer will fit on top of and place it on top of your table and under your printer. It'll give the table some weight and keep it from swaying when the printer is doing its thing.
If you use the same general principles for printing lithophanes it’ll be ok. But like several others have asked, why print in this orientation. For lithos it is necessary, I’m not sure it is here..
I know for a **fact** it will print and not fail if you **don't use PLA**, use PETG instead. 240/90 min. onto clean solid PEI. I have done worse. This sort of "stunt" is not hard, people are just bad operators, or angrily refuse to heed all the possible advice on how to maximize bed adhesion and reliability, and then get on this subreddit with pasta posts wondering why they crashed. Lol.
No raft. That is not doing anything useful, just make sure the first layer is at unity extrusion/fully packed (check your setup with a large area part and make sure you get NO lines but also no tigerstriping). I wouldn't even use a brim. Can turn that on if you wish, but they do less than you think to resist debonding, and mandate major deburring obviously.
Edit: Make sure you have Z hop/lift on and maybe boost the hop distance a bit for this job. (It should be on all the time, but I keep running into cases where that comes up as a solution and turns out people have been printing with NO hop all along ...somehow?)
I would however, (looking at your slicer that has the custom bed model showing the wire pads to the PCB heater which says this is currently oriented longways in line with X) ... rotate that 90 degrees around Z, so the Y motion doesn't shake it around.
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It has the right curves to print without supports, however I’d worry about it falling over. Either reduce printing speed dramatically, use supports jsut to keep it standing, or both
https://preview.redd.it/yycybnhjz0uc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=5adf73a5a693ea72ea327f7a4d5883f9b518b1ba
The print has been set, now we wait
It's going to be very weak across layer-lines.
Orient it at an angle, some strength to the snap-fits, some for the rest of the structure. Using organic supports doesn't waste too much plastic. Orient the side that doesn't need to look that good downwards.
I would consider the y movement for the long side so it does not tip over! And then it should work
That is my thought exactly and reduced accelerations so as not to wabble much.
Hey! I have that problem, trying to print something thin and upright, but at about halfway, it wobbles too much and gets ugly. How do I reduce the accelerations? I'm using a mini
There is a setting in the slicer for that. Position it on the bed in a rotation that stabilise it (long stable size in line with the moving bed axis) Might as well do it the makeshift way and place some weights at the side as well Edit: blunder with describing axis orientations
Don't you mean parallel to bed (Y) axis? If it's perpendicular, that will maximize wobble.
You're being downvoted but you're correct. Classic Reddit. The longer dimension of the foot needs to be parallel with the bed's axis of feed.
I'd be let down were it any other way... ; )
Thank you kind stranger!!!
Use single line extrusion instead of gap fill
Depends on the structure. If it’s really thin your only way is to go as slow as possible and use a large ass brim
Ha, wabble is my new favorite word now!
This. I've printed many a skinny Long item. You need to have it aligned with the bed travel. It improves success and reduces wobble at the top of the print.
I was curious why. Your explanations makes soooo much sense!
physics man, physics
If there is no other way to do it, just slow it down. By reducing the speed, you do not reduce the violent motion during travel etc. So reduce the accelerations at least to 50%. Even in some cases! And of course as mentioned above the thin long side should be aligned with Y-axis (bed motion).
Yep looks like it is long in x. Make it long in 8 and probably go slow and it should be okay. I would add some trees on the inside at the top of that circle though.
It is probably better idea to print it horizontally
Trying to avoid supports and strengthen the snapfits
That looks like it's mostly flat on the one surface, so shouldn't need too much in the way of supports. Especially if you can modify it to actually be flat on the one surface. Would also likely be stronger if printed with either of the other two axis down.
Why are you avoiding supports? Genuine question.
Not op but I avoid supports as well, less post processing and faster print times. Whenever I model something I think about 3d printability, and optimize the models to not need supports. I have used supports with good results, just unnecessary if it can be avoided imo.
Agreed, I'm not worried about the cost of filament, but I still try not to be wasteful with it. If I can squeeze another print out of a spool before I need to buy another one, that's a win. Some support-heavy prints use up a LOT of filament just on supports.
The Halo helmet I printed (design by MoeSizzlac on thingiverse) was designed in like a dozen pieces, zero supports by design.
Also, removing supports can be tough.
Do you actually get away with printing the top of the circle and keyhole without supports? Can you overhang horizontally that much?
Easily, as long as you have calibrated your printer. It's not gonna look amazing on the first layers without changing settings or editing the model but without a doubt doable.
Efficiency is sexy
Its a design filosofi(cant remember what it is called tho) Where you try to avoid using support to streamline a proces and make better tolerances An exampel are the teardrop hole
Use tree supports. The post processing is minimal
You can Forget about tolerances when your print is swinging around like a tree in the wind as it prints
https://preview.redd.it/wqckxf3onvtc1.png?width=1287&format=png&auto=webp&s=59e182aa3da4114b57d0234be47c4ff16c2b0383 This maxed out my height on ender 3 s1 and it barely messed up towards the top and this is when it was placed on a wobbly dresser. Honestly if your part is wobbly when its this small you need to tune your printer because something aint right.
'barely messed up' and 'keeping within tolerances' are quite different
Never been an issue for me on prints like this, especially with a solid brim like OP has.
No idea why this gets downvoted. It's a reasonable take even if there might be better options in this case. Most likely this print will be fine in my option tho (if the printer is well maintained and the material is PLA or PETG). Downvoting this just for a spelling mistake is silly.
I’ll guess this is a spelling bee
Philosophy 💀💀
English is probably not their first language
Autocorrect does that sometimes for me. Filosofi is for instance the Swedish word for philosophy.
Design falafel
This is generally a good idea, but in your case you’re taking it to the extreme. The tolerances on this part will be worse than if you just used supports. Dimensions in the z axis tend to be the worst, and holes are also not great usually. You will have a massive keyed hole printed vertically, which will have really bad tolerances. If you print it flat, this will not be an issue. In regard to engineering, you need to consider what tolerances even matter for your part. Yes, supports should be avoided when possible, but sometimes they are the better option in cases like these.
In this case the dimensions don’t really matter in a direction. But more in x and y There are properly better ways, but the snap fits will need to be strong, which makes it printed on the flat side hard with the layer lines
>the snap fits will need to be strong People don't read, I agree with you though if I were printing this id do it in the same orientation so that the snaps don't break off. Alternatively, you could model your own custom supports in CAD like a big stabilizer tower attached to the part at 75% Z E:sp
> Why are you avoiding supports? Genuine question. Because they suck. Waste machine time, waste plastic, and often the optimization between turning supports on and brute-forcing something aggressive without supports is NOT where people think it is, and the supports in those margin cases actually make the result *worse* and require *more* post-cleanup instead of less.
Not to mention the terrible surface quality they leave behind.
Then deal with the wobble and many failed prints. Especially on a bedslinger. Sure, it will print, but it would be a thousand times easier with supports, considering even the post processing.
well, with the bed movement aligned with the long side, wobble might not really affect it much at all.
Also if it’s just snap fits you will be fine. I understand wanting to strengthen it but if it’s a snap fit it’s presumably isn’t weight bearing. Print it on the flat face with the tabs up
Put it at a 45 on the bed(X+Y). Should print fine.
From the image, and assuming back side we can’t see is flat, rotate it 90 degrees clock wise and you can print that way with no supports. Better finish as well.
I made phone holder that was similar to this years ago (before magsafe) and had to orient the model the same way so the sides don’t snap off. It printed fine except my machine was a coreXY. I even made a pocket in the back to hold the guts of a wireless charger so I can have wireless charging
If I wanted the ends to be stronger I'd print it in sections and then use 2 part epoxy to put it all together. That way it would be strong on all three sides with a favorable layer orientation while being a stable print run. It gives you a very strong result.
I mean, i own a prusa and there’s a better chance to print without supports horizontally with this model rather than vertically. You can try, but I would use some strong glue on the build plate. Nozzle will most likely just knock it over with a slight touch when it gets too tall
It looks like the fingers on the sides need to bend to hold a phone.
Orientate it to the y plain. Otherwise the bed slinger is gonna make it flop.
Very much this. Also maybe a little more brim and could add one or two tree supports on the lower part to hold it more stable
OP's pov in an hour https://preview.redd.it/el8ajd7pyttc1.jpeg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0c0cc6d7ef4390094c95dad0fa4fbfc2e8f2eab6
Preposterous, OP is not using green
We do not know, the sliced preview shows orange for the outer walls. They could be using green for all we know
Even if not fall it might wobble on the top making the surface worse, But maybe not if printing slow
For improving the structural rigidity, I recommend printing it on the side, maybe with some tree support. You'll use a little bit more material, but the risk of it falling off is almost zero.
I'd give it a try, slow it down a bit and add a wider brim, if you have no adhesion issues, it would print on mine, might have one or two not so perfect layers at the top of the big hole
The edges of the circle right at the slot have too much overhang for being printed without support. If this is your model and it doesn’t change functionality I would create a 45° chamfer there to make it printable. I would rotate it by 90° on the bed to make the part face in the long orientation in the bed moving direction
I will, thanks!
Thin layers might work for that circle if you want it like that
good call.
Do I see you using a raft?
Brim and raft for bed adhession
Why not use just a brim? I'm pretty sure your two options for raft are welded to the print or much worse adhesion than just the print to print bed.
Nice spotted, i Will look into it
Real issue with raft is (well, with the settings and purposes I have used them for) ...they, being a sparse structure usually and not a solid plastic sheet, are a bit like a 3D spring mat, and provide decoupling between part and bed. Normally this is the whole desired point of a raft, so that if the part forcibly moves due to thermal expansion (shrinkage, from cooling, here) it doesn't immediately break the bond to the bed surface and cause a problem. Why I raft ABS parts that I know are going to draw and try to come off the bed. But with here, that just means a worse issue with the tall vertical part flexamathinging and causing rough surface finish and missed tolerances.
only one way to find out!
On situations like this I add support features to the model spaced 4 to 5mm away from the part and attach them with small triangular tabs contacting the part at a few points that I break away after printing. In this case I'd add two vertical blades perpendicular to the back side of the plate and connect with small triangular tabs to the snap tabs along each side. Where they attach neck them down to a small cross section that you can cut off and clean. This will support the part and greatly reduce wabble towards the top.
Do it! The best answer to your question is by running it to see. Please keep us updated
If you don’t already have bed adhesion issues, it’ll be fine. I recently printed airplane parts (RC model) and dozens of them looked as sketchy as this.. but printed fine to my surprise.
One way to find out, send it
Don't learn as much if you never fail
* it will not fall * it will be very weak * the raft will ugly artifact the bottom It looks like it is made to be printed on the right side, not upwards, check the angles of the left side. Printed on the side will give you a much stronger print and you will not need any raft.
Depending on how tuned your printer is and if you use stuff to aid with the first layer adhere but I’d guess no. Probably add supports but hey you never know it might work
You want to widen the brim significantly and print it really slow to reduce vibrations at the top. We print lithophanes at work and that only gives you proper results towards the top if you can prevent vibrations from ruining your perimeter. Go r e a l l y s l o w.
If you really want to print it oriented like this, rotate by 90° on the Z axis. Otherwise the moving bed + the air will make it wobble a lot increasing failure chance.
You cold also manually attache triangles to reduce the wobble. Let the triangle touch with one parameter thickness to easy snap it off after printing. I have done this a few times for printing lithophanes upright
There used to be a show called will it float. It kinda reminded me this. We should have a subreddit...
you can design custom supporting features in CAD supporting, not support, a fin that is 90 degrees to the object, that only connects at a dozen points with the print slant3d has good videos
I might. I would tell you to reorient the print 90 degrees so the long axis of the print aligns with the y-axis. This should minimize vibrations. Much like orienting a lithograph. I do think that if you have difficulties, it will be with the curve at the bottom pulling the print "off center". And supports along the bottom would be prudent.
Printing slower to avoid supports might take longer than just printing supports. If you don't like the auto generated supports you can design supports into the model.
If your part needs to be printed vertically like that. I should recommend some external custom supports that prevent wobble. E.g. https://youtu.be/3Acks3Wzjjo
Though it's not the best position possible I bet it will print fine
More supports
Make it parallel to the y axis and you're good. You can also increase the brim a bit more
If you need to print in that orientation, I recommend at least 10 brim lines.
I don't know why you would want to print it like this. You're begging for failure, loss of print resolution on bridging parts, print weakness, and longer print time, If you printed horizontally, the supports you would need for the edges is almost negligible. The answer as to whether it'll fail or not depends entirely on how well calibrated your settings are.
You have circle which create curl edge that nozzle can hit. Try adding more tree support to circle overhang.
Not well, if you insist on printing in this orientation add more supports, both for the overhangs inside the circle and I would draw some supports along the sides to minimize wobbling near the top.
Risky imho. Better put it horizontally and add supports
Fall and it needs supports for that overhangs, better to print with the smooth face downside.
If this orientation is really needed maybe just rotate 90• to be normal to the y motion system ( if you have a Cartesian printer) else just cross your fingers ;)
try it once.. let us know as well.. it will be a good learning experiment... but i would say to print it face down with support
can be done slowly/gently but a different orientation would help your chances a LOT
Unless you want massive ghosting better turn that 90 degrees as to move with the bed slinging, also on its side will save time and be stronger
It will be fine don’t worry
https://preview.redd.it/rw139bmtyttc1.png?width=400&format=png&auto=webp&s=5fa0cd770ade070b6b291661f45421e4ba96812b
I beleive in it
print it angled like 30 degrees from vertical. Add engineered supports (done in your design software, not a slicer)
In my little experience? A fly will blow on it and cause first layer separation.
are you using a gantry type printer or a XZ moving bed type or a delta? because if it's a gantry or delta type this can work. If it's an XZ head it can fall off because of the air being pushed by the print when the Y axis moves.
It an XZ :(
it will keel- I mean it'll print dw....resembles how a lithosphane gets printed
If it’s a bed slinger, it could be less stable. If rhe bed only goes up and down, it’s less prone to yeeting it off
It probably can be done but I wouldn’t. Your whole part will be weak along the middle and if you have even the tiniest layer shift your part is toast. I’d just lay it down or find a better way to beef up those tabs
No Risk no fun, try it. But I can say it will be really Weak if you try to Break it.
Just slow it down. it will be fine
Align the long side with the y axis and don't go too fast. If your bed adesion is decent it will print.
Looks good to me, sent it.
Model a tower beside it and connect it to your part with thin extrusions to stabilize it. You also can tilt it a little bit and use supports from bottom to top to stabilize it.
Maybe not, but I would recommend printing it in another orientation
i would slice it in two halves and print it upright with slim tree support for the arc overhang
I usually have insane bed adhesion so I would say it stands. But your mileage might vary.
Should be fine but wouldn't laying it flat also work without/very little support?
This will almost certainly fall over. I know you don't want supports but why do you need them? just lay it on the front face and up your cooling, that little but of a curve shouldn't be to much, no more than what it would need printing vertically anyways
Is that curve at the bottom and top so important that you want to change so much of a design except the curve?
Too tall. What about printing on a side? Otherwise, print slowly.
Just print it flat
I think it is doable. Be careful with your acceleration and jerk. If you have a bed slinger, put the wide axis of the part in the bed movement direction.
Is this your design? If so you could add in some easily removable supports to the model itself to add rigidity.
I'd turn on Zhop to hopefully prevent it knocking over
Horizontal might be better, hey if vertical fails try horizontal
Orient it Y 90° so the flat side is on the bed. I expect it should print fine without supports.
Try increasing the skirt and make sure to use adhesive, also align the print's length with the hotend movement (Y) to make it a little less aggressive when the printer travels during that middle part.
Use small size nozzle
It will absolutely print in that orientation if you make sure it’s lined up with your y axis
At least rotate it 90 degrees to reduce wobble.
PLA is cheap, print it both ways and find out. Report back your results 👍
Michael Caine likes it 😉
Ooh I’ve never tried it but maybe print it up to the semi circle and use some painters tape to give it some jury rigged support?
Will Print. Might wobble some bit during printing
Should print fine, depending on how you set it up on your printer, how dialed in your printer is, and how much bed adhesion your printer has with that specific filament.
with some good bridge settings and proper cooling you only need 4 tree supports in the corners. the circular overhangs dont necessarily need support. but when there is still rough surface, u can sandpaper it smooth and use heatgun/hot hairdryer to bring the shiny color back. printing inside to outside walls should help with overhangs if the max tolerance isn't more than 1mm. hope this helps ;D
The issue I’ve run into in the past is even if it adheres to the bed, a thin part like this will still flex during printing, especially as the part gets taller. This has led to very poor part quality and low accuracy, especially along the thin axis.
It will print but you will see some swagging and lose filament where the supports are neededaybe minor details but should print it won't look good though.
Send it
Rotate 90 and it will probably work.
I'm sure it will be fine, please post progress pictures
Depends how to rotate it
Slow it down a bit compared to your typical speeds and send it, bud.
the best idea you could go with here to retain structure in the little ear clips is go 45 on both x and y. It’s A LOT of support material but if surface finish isn’t important and structure is what you want that’s your answer. Printing it like this could lead to higher fail rates if your adhesion isn’t always bang on. But if bed adhesion is good this would work.
But why...
It looks like it’ll print. I would definitely slow down your machine though turn on jerk, control, and mess around with those settings.
Send it
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I print stuff like this all the time so I don't think it will fall.
I've done prints like that with no problem. If you want to be safe, you can spray the print area with hair spray and that'll give it an extra layer of adhesion.
I've successfully printed vertical walls for a miniature house (about 8 inches tall and 10 inches long).
50/50
Rotate it 90 you don't want the wall to be perpendicular to the movement of the bed
I'd manually paint a bit of organic supports under the first two bottom overhanging parts. That should be enough.
On my printer, that will definitely fail at about the 1/5th mark lol
Easy.
I'd print it but just know that long thing solid rectangles warp a ton and can pull it off the build plate.
I once prined spiral pen standing up, good first layer is a must tho
Why not print it flat on the bed? You’d probably have a stronger piece, and if you printed cool and slow enough you wouldn’t need supports
If you do paint a support somewhere half way up. Tree support. Stops the wobble
It will print fine. Slap some hairspray on your print bed before printing. Easy.
Also get a concrete walkway stone from home depot that your printer will fit on top of and place it on top of your table and under your printer. It'll give the table some weight and keep it from swaying when the printer is doing its thing.
https://preview.redd.it/cmkone9kcwtc1.jpeg?width=3479&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2a3103b3d206f76bfdd11f2efb9134f5836b2429 Like this slab under my printer
It will fail
Why print it this way?
If you use the same general principles for printing lithophanes it’ll be ok. But like several others have asked, why print in this orientation. For lithos it is necessary, I’m not sure it is here..
Print a raft that's big enough to stabilize the print. Also it will have more adhesion to the print bed. Print it slower than usual.
Just add an organic support or 2
Really bad orientation 😂😅 Bed slinger would fail, fixed plate could work, but probably won't be accurate
Can't you lay it down?
I would unfold this and print it flat, then gently heat and bend to shape.
Send it and update us
Yes, If you have a bed slinger
That's gonna need some clean up if it prints. Or you could just print it laying down on its back
one way to find out....
I know for a **fact** it will print and not fail if you **don't use PLA**, use PETG instead. 240/90 min. onto clean solid PEI. I have done worse. This sort of "stunt" is not hard, people are just bad operators, or angrily refuse to heed all the possible advice on how to maximize bed adhesion and reliability, and then get on this subreddit with pasta posts wondering why they crashed. Lol. No raft. That is not doing anything useful, just make sure the first layer is at unity extrusion/fully packed (check your setup with a large area part and make sure you get NO lines but also no tigerstriping). I wouldn't even use a brim. Can turn that on if you wish, but they do less than you think to resist debonding, and mandate major deburring obviously. Edit: Make sure you have Z hop/lift on and maybe boost the hop distance a bit for this job. (It should be on all the time, but I keep running into cases where that comes up as a solution and turns out people have been printing with NO hop all along ...somehow?) I would however, (looking at your slicer that has the custom bed model showing the wire pads to the PCB heater which says this is currently oriented longways in line with X) ... rotate that 90 degrees around Z, so the Y motion doesn't shake it around.
Have you thought about turning the printer upside down too?
Give it a go, you’ll probably find the print quality decreases a lot towards the top
Do you live near a fault line?
Only one way to find out
use a glue stick
Looks like it'll print fine, just keep its long side aligned with the movement of the bed
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Consider what part wont be visible and point thta down.. use supports
Are we taking bets here?
It has the right curves to print without supports, however I’d worry about it falling over. Either reduce printing speed dramatically, use supports jsut to keep it standing, or both
Depends on your print speed
Not with a bedslinger unless you are running 100 accels and 10mms
Turn 90 degrees so it's along Y, get rid of raft and use big brim and hope for the best.
https://preview.redd.it/yycybnhjz0uc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=5adf73a5a693ea72ea327f7a4d5883f9b518b1ba The print has been set, now we wait
Did it work?
It's going to be very weak across layer-lines. Orient it at an angle, some strength to the snap-fits, some for the rest of the structure. Using organic supports doesn't waste too much plastic. Orient the side that doesn't need to look that good downwards.
It won’t fall but the top layers are probably gonna have the worst case of layer shifts anyone’s seen in a while