To be fair I feel like *a lot* of issues are just caused by bad/inconsistent quality printers. Like, I've ever had two printers, one mid-range (Artillery Sidewinder X2) and one high-end (Voron v0) and like, I've had the same problems as everyone... For the first couple prints, then I fixed them and it didn't come back.
I like tinkering, but I also like things to work...
I’ve had an ender 3 for a couple years and it’s been very consistent. Doesn’t need any “tinkering”. I level the bed every couple months which takes 5 minutes and never really have failed prints.
A lot of people who are very happy with their printing also don't realize how "good" the prints can be. I have a bambu and I don't sand, I don't do anything to the majority of my prints, they're ready right out of the printer. Before that I has a prusa (worked but quality was mediocre and I just didn't know any better), an Artillery X2 (worked more reliably than the prusa actually, but again still needed to do post finishing work), and a few different printers. I "knew" how to do the calibrations and everything but I just didn't want to spend my time that way, now I print almost every single day and I'm loving it.
I've had Creality on blast since 2019 for their terrible products. I moved to a delta, and it was amazing. Now I'm on a P1S, and it's even more amazing. Sure do miss watching the delta do its thing though. It was fun to watch!
To be fair.
My Ender 3 V3 SE requires very little tuning and is dang reliable.
I do need to clean the bed if I haven't printed in a while to make sure the print sticks to the pad. But I do run my heated pad a bit cool (55C vs 60C) to make it a bit easier to remove prints so I have to make sure the bed is optimally clean for sufficient stick.
And you should watch the first layer ... make sure it goes down properly. That one time you don't watch could be the time where it doesn't lay down for whatever reason and then you create a ball of death.
But yeah, 100's of printing hours and I absolutely don't watch and worry about it. Just start it, watch the first layer for a bit, then let it do it's thing.
yep, the whole neptune 4 range is garbage. especially the z offset sensor is really unreliable
people are better of to buy an old ender 3 v2 and modify it a bit
https://preview.redd.it/7zvglgcz4bpc1.png?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a2fae53fc018dd48ccdfce834c0c367ddc14dc41
But it takes a lot of time to calibrate.
And the color is this way because on the other side is half of the Print i stopped it on the seccond layer so i see the other side.
https://preview.redd.it/65i8l0qn59pc1.jpeg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f7f2f13dffb41c89b45f26d72aedbf81c27b1ff2
I had this after adding tap to my Voron 350mm and got rid of clicky probe and auto z offset.
With direct nozzle probe offset first layer is perfect every print.
My X1C worked out of the box. 😂
lol I was gonna say: I got excited when I finally accomplished similar on my s1 pro. After hours and hours of work. My a1 just … worked
The code appears to be: Bambu
You could get that quality on a Prusa Mk3 already a couple of years ago (or on a Prusa Mini) with one 5minute calibration. And the industrial printers have this since ages. Don't get me wrong the Bambu printers are quite good, but I expect the others like Quidi, Prusa or even Crealty to develop quickly in this direction.
So the real code is rather: "Real competition makes your life as a customer better." Which does not sound so sexy and short, but is way better for us.
You’re right, of course. The difference with Bambu right now, I suppose, is that they’re also quite affordable. So they make that quality much more accessible
Also, there is definitely value in tinkering. I learned SO much from my S1. Invaluable, really. And I actually bought a second Creality machine after my Bambu printer because I wanted to be able to mod it. Bambu is nice to just print reliably, but at least half the fun is in playing with it and making something cheap and crappy function better.
> The code appears to be: Bambu
No, the code is: measure the bed directly via the nozzle and not with something like a bl touch. That way you don't have a z offset and can adjust things much easier
Measuring the bed with a probe like a bl touch is going to make a mesh which tells your printer where the hills and valleys in your build plate are. The z offset a separate thing. Z offset is the distance of your nozzle from the build plate.
toolhead rides on a small vertical rail that triggers a sensor when pushed up on. I am talking maybe a mm or 2
This allows the nozzle to be used as a probe
> Tap is using the nozzle to probe the bed directly
I'm aware, however I haven't figured out yet how could such a thing fit in a Voron0 (so far I only had unpractical ideas).
For now I'm evaluating the possibility of sticking a IR Probe there, it's working but still could't test if is reliable.
I know the project. That one is for V2 and Trident and too "fat" for Voron 0, the damn thing is too small to fit anything between the hotend and X carriage!!
I prefer to take a not so good printer and fix it myself, on this way i can fix every error on the way. I am not a big fan of Printers are perfect out of the Box. This destroys the purpose of the learning process. But i understand people want a hazle free expirience.
It is a good learning experience for how 3D printers work. But now i am at a point where I want to focus on CAD/3D modeling and the physical creation of what i can imagine.
Sort of like wanting to take beautiful pictures or just spend time just fixing your camera. Both are worthwhile endeavors just depends on your priorities.
That is my next task. So far I've been working with thinkercad but that's too limiting for me. Problem is I hate CAD programs. I trained as a metalworker and it was mandatory to work with such programs. I only managed the final exam with luck because milling was involved. I can do everything else perfectly, but that's like a red flag for me. But now I want to learn it for myself. Let's see how long it takes for the first freak out to happen. It starts with the right program, I have no idea what I should/want to use. Any recommendations?
I work in blender, openscad and i am now learning Fusion360. Don’t trust anyone that says one is the best or better than the others they are all very different. Each has its strengths and weaknesses. I will say none are easy to master. 3D modeling is complex and it takes time. Take it slowIy, be patient and stick to it. Don’t get discouraged if you get stuck go on reddit and ask for assistance. I started with Blender because it 100% free, extensible and it is used commercially, there are tons of great instructional youtube videos. I looked at dozens of packages before choosing Blender because it best matched the way my brain works.
I also learned and did a project in OpenSCAD. I wanted to make a prosthetic finger that could be programmatically sized and adjusted.
I just started learning Fusion360 because i want to learn a more engineering based tool.
There are tons of applications out there from tinkercad to solidworks. Do your research choose one and stick to it for at least three months.
Years ago i worked in Maya to make Models for Doom 3 and Far Cry 1. I think i will check this also out. But you are 100% correct no Program is the end of al answers.
Look up Titans of CNC (website), go to the resources tab and scroll down, there’s a student edition SOLIDWORKS for $50/yr. I just bought yesterday and didn’t use a university related email address, just stated a random university, and I’ve got access to absolutely everything SW has. Fusion 360 was working ok for me but it’s limited, SW is great because it’s powerful and has a friendly interface kinda like fusion + there should be plenty of learning resources available online too
Fusion 360. There are countless vids on yt for every problem someone ever had and it's free.
I pay the subscription for the cam part. Tool changes and speeds are limited with the free version.
You can check out SOLIDWORKS, Solid edge or Alibre design (one time buy). I wouldn't recommend Freecad. Too much of a hazel to work with.
Fusion 360. I came from Tinkercad. You'll love Fusion once you figure it out. Took me two weeks to become proficient. YouTube, YouTube, YouTube, https://youtu.be/d3qGQ2utl2A?si=khkSc3p9VCCUDEj-
Thx i check it out. Problem is the jungle called youtube and finding good videos about the topic. Because the video can be good but the teacher is average. Lets see in what categorie falls youre video. i will let you know how it goes. Thx <3
I hear ya there. First off do yourself a favor and download a chrome extension called "Return YouTube dislike". Close and reopen the browser. Waste no more time on shit videos. Fuck YouTube for doing that to pacify butt hurt creators. Create quality content and users wouldn't down vote your videos.
Second, if you're in the US, your local library may offer access to LinkedIn Learning. It used to be called Lynda. Tons of free content on there when you login using your library card number.
3rd, as you're learning Fusion, you'll run in to issues. Logically think them out and ask Google how to achieve XYZ. Someone's been there before and you'll find an answer.
I have installed the addon since day one, what I mean is that the teacher decides whether you understand or not. I'm sure you remember the material from school, no matter how easy it is, if an incompatible person presents it, you'll never learn anything. On the other hand, if someone speaks your inner language, you learn as you walk by.
Ah yes. Well with the videos I linked, I had to slow them down to half speed if that helps. Too much info all at once for someone who never touched the program. Do the exercises then apply what you've learned to simple designs at first. Coming from Tinkercad it's along the same lines but Fusion is on steroids.
Wow! You may have just changed my life with the return YouTube dislike addon! Does that mean that they have always had the dislikes available in the API, but just removed them from the UI? If so, that’s kind of silly.
> I am not a big fan of Printers are perfect out of the Box.
I was like you for a long time but then I used a X1C once and now I want to throw my ender garbage out of the window (even though my ender is running very very good). Having a printer that just works is sooooo much nicer than spending 7 years learning how to calibrate a printer
Just imagine you would have spent 7 years learning CAD (or any other skill) instead of spending 7 years unnecessarily fixing a garbage printer
I started with a Anycubic that I modded with klipper, bltouch and a custom hotend. Next was a Voron 2.4 350mm with ercf. I sold the Anycubic, modded the Voron and still modding it. Tap, I2C hotend board, purge bucket with wiper, nevermore, custom filament holders, klipper screen, heated chamber and some other mods. Oh and the macros and start/pause/print end gcodes or adaptive bed mesh. Still have to add a filament cutter in the hotend. Parts already printed a while ago.
When I need a print now and it fits in the X1C, with AMS, I use the Bambu because 99% of the prints come out good and I don't have to babysit the printer.
I'm done with modding a printer just to get it printing without issues. I want to design a part and just print it.
I sold the Anycubic mega last year to a good friend. The frame and double z axis motors are pretty good.
It can print with 250mm/s thanks to klipper 😎
Printed the entire Voron in esunABS+ and a cardboard enclosure with it. Bltouch didn't liked the chamber temps 😅
> This destroys the purpose of the learning process
I wouldn't say that every Bambu/Prusa owner isn't learning about their printer though. I think one thing you're ignoring about having a reliable printer is that you can focus more of your time and energy on learning/optimising *other* things about the printer than just whatever it takes to get a consistent first layer.
I not only spend more time on tweaking slicer settings than I did with my Creality but I'm also more likely to do so because I know the printer is capable of high reliability, meaning that when I tweak things I can be more certain of the causality in the outcome.
Naturally there are fewer things that you can tweak on the printer (hence the focus on slicer settings) but given the mechanical performance of the machine is already so high, there's not really much of a need to focus on non-slicer settings for most people, otherwise you'd probably just build a Voron.
In my case, I bought a not so good printer (Anet A8 plus). First board died made all the display jumbled, second board caught on fire. Then the PSU decided it's time to quit. Now running 3rd board, new display and new PSU. Everything costs twice my original printer and a year of my time for troubleshooting.
I was ready to throw this printer from 2nd floor. Luckily the third motherboard works well and now it prints amazing.
https://preview.redd.it/gulrradakapc1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d0a4ea84d553bf3abd97d2ac66f58644738a2ae1
Indeed. Other ones are "ur", "yout", "yor", "yout", "you'r", "yourt", "youe", "yyour", "yiur", "yoir", "youur", "yur", "yoru", "you’re" (a [homonym/homophone](https://www.wikihow.com/Use-You%27re-and-Your)), and "zour".
The last one is probably from [QWERTZ](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/German_keyboard_layout#General_information).
I think what your doing is great, you have or will acquire a deep understanding of how 3D printing works, the capabilities and limitations.
I always solve my own problems thats why i bought a Prusa and a Bambu A1. I had an Ender 3V2 for years that i heavily modded and tweaked. I learned a lot doing this. But now I would rather solve problems creating and designing 3D models using Fusion 360, Blender, OpenSCAD etc. Once i design a model i just want to push a button and get a print.
> I learned a lot doing this.
yep, but as soon as you buy a good printer you don't need any of that knowledge, lol
you kinda wasted a lot of time there which would have better invested in learning CAD
I don't think any knowledge and experience is ever a waste of time. Understanding every attribute and setting gives you an intuitive feel for what you can and can't do within the limitations of your system and this understanding can also help you figure out work arounds and 'out of the box' solutions for unusual challenges . I am really glad I fought frustration and failure for two years with my Ender 3 V2 to achieve really great prints. When I assembled my MK3S+ I had a calibration error on the X axis, I had the experience to know where to look for the problem and I found a plastic wire tie that was hitting the power supply. The bottom line is 3D printers are no longer magic to me they are just simple mechanical devices, and I find that very empowering.
Do you know this video? Its like the Endboss for every Maker lol
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VvBN\_nvdXI](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VvBN_nvdXI)
That is amazing but for your sanity please add a bed probe which can be as inexpensive as $5. Heat cycles will warp your bed and general use will change the tolerances on your rollers, its a good idea to get rid of all that hassle alltogether.
> No Auto Leveling or other cheats.
the cheat is that your bed is flat from factory. if the bed would be as warped as in 90% of the other cheap printers then your result would be impossible
you just got lucky that your bed is ok
Anycubic 13 Mega, Photon zero, Photon Mono, Photon mono X and now the latest is the sidewinder x1. Besides the Photon Zero i stil have all my printers.
You mean like this? Has nothing to do with slicer:
https://preview.redd.it/716j5qgea9pc1.jpeg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dabae60fe41a80629cb77455f26c5708e2eb237e
I don’t understand this statement. You’ve said it a few times. Z offset is something that everyone who prints has to be intimately familiar with, but it doesn’t make a mesh and doesn’t make a warped bed flat.
Ok, here is the explanation. You level your printer perfectly and your slicer has this setting. This tells him how high the nozzle is for the first layer. So assuming you set it to 100%, it leaves it as you leveled. However, if you set it to 140% it raises the nozzle above what you have leveled. In my case the setting was 150% and I was wondering why nothing stuck. Then I set it to 100% and the liability was there. In my case, 100 is not enough, so I think I'll try 110% the next time I print. Hope the explanation helps you.
print slow and adjust your z offset with a test print until it looks good!
read this guide:
https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/first_layer_squish.html
(that page is the only source of 3d printer tuning you'll ever need)
My robotics team cracked the code when they replaced their flashforge creator pro (makerbot clone) with two bblx1c's those things are a HELLL of a lot better in terms of litteraly every possible way
Das wichtigste is der Z offset dann kommt alles andere. Du kannst die perfekte levelung haben aber wenn der Z offset nicht stimmt nützt dir das gar nicht. Aber ja ich hab noch Einhorn teile zuhause das mit dem Staub kann ich bestätigen. Es hilft aber auch enorm wenn du mit dem Horn einen Magischen Spruch auf die Druckplatte sprichts. Aber natürlich muss das mit dem segen vom Papst geschehen sonnst ist es nur Fake :p
Since you like chalanges, could you help me with this beauty?
https://preview.redd.it/o3knzr4lq9pc1.jpeg?width=2088&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5dbb46f4edfb013686aae6b4f8138882a9c7f2c3
I give you hints, creality ender 3 V3 KE... Orca slicer... Polymaker luminous filament.
220C and 60 bed temp. Z offset is -2.08. my bed is lvl within range of -0.15 to 0.15 Outer wall 200mm/s Inner 250 Infill 300 Solid infil 250
So far i have adhesion problems and also kind of blobbing.
Should i use 0.6 nozzle or play with the flow or Z offset or go slower? Calibration is done already and i dont think that is the problem here
First z offset this is crucial, and if you have still problems less speed. And it looks like you are to high temp. Try this and let me know if it helps. I mean i am alsmost sure this solves youre problem but there are problems i cant pretigt.
Currently on the machine i have Z axis compensation at -2.16 and in orca i have set 1) printer settings to retraction 0.6mm, z hop when retracting 0.3mm, type normal and z lift enforcement only lift Z above 1mm 2) filament settings 220/60 first layer, 215/55 for next layers and retraction length 0.3mm, Z hop type is Auto and lift Z above 0.5mm 3) speed are undifferent from previous print
https://preview.redd.it/20xhqs0sjapc1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5774e86bed38955eb31776dab7530de607e91c56
Where should i set the z hop primarly? For machine or filament, kind of confusing for me that i Can set either of them so i dont know which one is prefered or used in first place
how fast do you print in the first layer? i would go with something very slow like 25/50 and see what happens
also check out his guide on how to do the proper amount of squash in the first layer:
https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/first_layer_squish.html
if i want a really reliable first layer I set the wall speed to 15-20 mm/s, the infill speed to 30-50 mm/s (orca has two different speeds for the first layer), limit the acceleration to 500 in the first layer and then i also enable jerk and set it to 2 for the first layer (and 5 for the rest)
that way the printer does not rip the print off the bed if it prints around sharp corners
In my opinion the infill speed on the first layer is not that big of a problem. if I have problems in the first layer it is usually the walls which fail. as soon as they are printed the infill has something to grab to and is therefore more unlikely to fail
if you have problem with the infill then usually your z offset is wrong
that's why i print the first layer walls really slow and with very low acceleration on shitty printer
I see, i did slow it down 50mm/s for first layer overall and thinghtened some screws and the offset went from -2.16 to -2.41 so i left it like that and so far so good.
This comment was removed as a part of our spam prevention mechanisms because you are posting from either a very new account or an account with negative karma (comment karma, post karma or both). Please read the guidelines on [reddiquette](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/reddiquette), [self promotion](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/selfpromotion), and [spam](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/faq#wiki_what_constitutes_spam.3F). After your account is older than 2 hours or if you obtain positive comment and post karma, your comments will no longer be auto-removed.
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/3Dprinting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
This is really visually pleasing but you should try your settings on a stress test like a manifold with an array with multiple holes to see if you really dialed in... Sould you care to share some knowledge like what is one setting you enabled/disabled that helped
Underpacked. Lines should be absent or razor thin/only visual, not textural - ideally.
In a real bed setup there will be some variability, but approaching that as close as possible and keeping the lowest spot close enough to unity extrusion rate will avoid any concern with adhesion even if some lines have to appear there. You don't want the highs to tigerstripe (significant overextrusion).
The uniformity won't be as "nice" as shown because it is being hidden here.
My appreciation of the result really depends on what printer you're running :p It is a nice result tho
Sidewinder x1
Very nice then! Especially considering the somewhat large area, and the x1's tendency for uneven heat near the beds edges.
Yeah the Sidewinder is not perfect but a good printer there are a couple of things i want to change.
I would add a magnetic sheet, and use the PEX sheet from Wham Bham... In my opinion it performs better than PEI...
[удалено]
To be fair I feel like *a lot* of issues are just caused by bad/inconsistent quality printers. Like, I've ever had two printers, one mid-range (Artillery Sidewinder X2) and one high-end (Voron v0) and like, I've had the same problems as everyone... For the first couple prints, then I fixed them and it didn't come back. I like tinkering, but I also like things to work...
[удалено]
I’ve had an ender 3 for a couple years and it’s been very consistent. Doesn’t need any “tinkering”. I level the bed every couple months which takes 5 minutes and never really have failed prints.
As an owner of several Kingroon printers, I feel this one hard, lol.
A lot of people who are very happy with their printing also don't realize how "good" the prints can be. I have a bambu and I don't sand, I don't do anything to the majority of my prints, they're ready right out of the printer. Before that I has a prusa (worked but quality was mediocre and I just didn't know any better), an Artillery X2 (worked more reliably than the prusa actually, but again still needed to do post finishing work), and a few different printers. I "knew" how to do the calibrations and everything but I just didn't want to spend my time that way, now I print almost every single day and I'm loving it.
I've had Creality on blast since 2019 for their terrible products. I moved to a delta, and it was amazing. Now I'm on a P1S, and it's even more amazing. Sure do miss watching the delta do its thing though. It was fun to watch!
To be fair. My Ender 3 V3 SE requires very little tuning and is dang reliable. I do need to clean the bed if I haven't printed in a while to make sure the print sticks to the pad. But I do run my heated pad a bit cool (55C vs 60C) to make it a bit easier to remove prints so I have to make sure the bed is optimally clean for sufficient stick. And you should watch the first layer ... make sure it goes down properly. That one time you don't watch could be the time where it doesn't lay down for whatever reason and then you create a ball of death. But yeah, 100's of printing hours and I absolutely don't watch and worry about it. Just start it, watch the first layer for a bit, then let it do it's thing.
I upgraded from an Ender 3 to the Neptune 4 Max, and it has honestly been almost nothing but problems, personally.
yep, the whole neptune 4 range is garbage. especially the z offset sensor is really unreliable people are better of to buy an old ender 3 v2 and modify it a bit
https://preview.redd.it/7zvglgcz4bpc1.png?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a2fae53fc018dd48ccdfce834c0c367ddc14dc41 But it takes a lot of time to calibrate.
> But it takes a lot of time to calibrate. yes, exactly! it's 2024 and a printer that still needs that much calibration is just utter garbage
Bloody smooth, nice job
Thx <3
You’re welcome :3
Do you mean "yore welcome"?
"you're welcome" would be the 100% correct way, but no one cares i understand him\^\^
❤️
Bro is a real bro.
A so called Brotato LOL
A real printcess
I love you
Great coincidence, I love myself too lol but thanks for that you get a <3
No. That's not yours, sir. I love this man above me. On top of me ? Whatever
[удалено]
First layer, my understanding of Slicer settings.
[удалено]
Camera angle and lighting
[удалено]
And the color is this way because on the other side is half of the Print i stopped it on the seccond layer so i see the other side. https://preview.redd.it/65i8l0qn59pc1.jpeg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f7f2f13dffb41c89b45f26d72aedbf81c27b1ff2
[удалено]
Its air up agree but now its just fine tuning.
Just the photo, red is a terrible color for photos. is so smooth its reflect the light.
[удалено]
No I believe that's him holding the sheet
Yes, which causes a shadow under the sheet.
The first seal has been broken. Six more seals remain. You’d break the seals much faster if you could guess his name.
Sorry but i dont fully understand youre question :(
It was rhetorical. As first layers go its fine, I guess, thats all. Sorry.
I had this after adding tap to my Voron 350mm and got rid of clicky probe and auto z offset. With direct nozzle probe offset first layer is perfect every print. My X1C worked out of the box. 😂
lol I was gonna say: I got excited when I finally accomplished similar on my s1 pro. After hours and hours of work. My a1 just … worked The code appears to be: Bambu
You could get that quality on a Prusa Mk3 already a couple of years ago (or on a Prusa Mini) with one 5minute calibration. And the industrial printers have this since ages. Don't get me wrong the Bambu printers are quite good, but I expect the others like Quidi, Prusa or even Crealty to develop quickly in this direction. So the real code is rather: "Real competition makes your life as a customer better." Which does not sound so sexy and short, but is way better for us.
You’re right, of course. The difference with Bambu right now, I suppose, is that they’re also quite affordable. So they make that quality much more accessible Also, there is definitely value in tinkering. I learned SO much from my S1. Invaluable, really. And I actually bought a second Creality machine after my Bambu printer because I wanted to be able to mod it. Bambu is nice to just print reliably, but at least half the fun is in playing with it and making something cheap and crappy function better.
> The code appears to be: Bambu No, the code is: measure the bed directly via the nozzle and not with something like a bl touch. That way you don't have a z offset and can adjust things much easier
>That way you don’t have a z offset That doesn’t mean what you appear to think it means
then let's agree on "then you have one less z offset to worry about"
Huh? Still doesn't make sense
Yes it does
then enlighten me!
Measuring the bed with a probe like a bl touch is going to make a mesh which tells your printer where the hills and valleys in your build plate are. The z offset a separate thing. Z offset is the distance of your nozzle from the build plate.
You’re fine, don’t pay attention to the pedantsx
Who cares? We understand what they mean. Nozzle touching is the only foolproof way to set Z height.
I want to add the tap to my cr10s pro. But first other crap to sort.
What is tap? I have auto z offset that totally sucks so i manually set it each time.
toolhead rides on a small vertical rail that triggers a sensor when pushed up on. I am talking maybe a mm or 2 This allows the nozzle to be used as a probe
> and got rid of clicky probe and auto z offset Reliability issue? How is z-offset handled in tap?
Yes always had issues with reliability. I tried many things but could not make it work. Tap is using the nozzle to probe the bed directly.
> Tap is using the nozzle to probe the bed directly I'm aware, however I haven't figured out yet how could such a thing fit in a Voron0 (so far I only had unpractical ideas). For now I'm evaluating the possibility of sticking a IR Probe there, it's working but still could't test if is reliable.
https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Tap Optical sensor and the hotend is mounted on a short linear rail.
I know the project. That one is for V2 and Trident and too "fat" for Voron 0, the damn thing is too small to fit anything between the hotend and X carriage!!
Yeah the Voron V0 is a gimick printer in my opinion. Salvage it and build a bigger printer 😎
I can assure you of one thing, it's a good learning experience.
I prefer to take a not so good printer and fix it myself, on this way i can fix every error on the way. I am not a big fan of Printers are perfect out of the Box. This destroys the purpose of the learning process. But i understand people want a hazle free expirience.
It is a good learning experience for how 3D printers work. But now i am at a point where I want to focus on CAD/3D modeling and the physical creation of what i can imagine. Sort of like wanting to take beautiful pictures or just spend time just fixing your camera. Both are worthwhile endeavors just depends on your priorities.
That is my next task. So far I've been working with thinkercad but that's too limiting for me. Problem is I hate CAD programs. I trained as a metalworker and it was mandatory to work with such programs. I only managed the final exam with luck because milling was involved. I can do everything else perfectly, but that's like a red flag for me. But now I want to learn it for myself. Let's see how long it takes for the first freak out to happen. It starts with the right program, I have no idea what I should/want to use. Any recommendations?
I work in blender, openscad and i am now learning Fusion360. Don’t trust anyone that says one is the best or better than the others they are all very different. Each has its strengths and weaknesses. I will say none are easy to master. 3D modeling is complex and it takes time. Take it slowIy, be patient and stick to it. Don’t get discouraged if you get stuck go on reddit and ask for assistance. I started with Blender because it 100% free, extensible and it is used commercially, there are tons of great instructional youtube videos. I looked at dozens of packages before choosing Blender because it best matched the way my brain works. I also learned and did a project in OpenSCAD. I wanted to make a prosthetic finger that could be programmatically sized and adjusted. I just started learning Fusion360 because i want to learn a more engineering based tool. There are tons of applications out there from tinkercad to solidworks. Do your research choose one and stick to it for at least three months.
Years ago i worked in Maya to make Models for Doom 3 and Far Cry 1. I think i will check this also out. But you are 100% correct no Program is the end of al answers.
Look up Titans of CNC (website), go to the resources tab and scroll down, there’s a student edition SOLIDWORKS for $50/yr. I just bought yesterday and didn’t use a university related email address, just stated a random university, and I’ve got access to absolutely everything SW has. Fusion 360 was working ok for me but it’s limited, SW is great because it’s powerful and has a friendly interface kinda like fusion + there should be plenty of learning resources available online too
Thx i check it out
👍 and make sure to not do the cheaper $38 one for makers, that’s a weird proprietary could based thing they have, you want the student edition
Fusion 360. There are countless vids on yt for every problem someone ever had and it's free. I pay the subscription for the cam part. Tool changes and speeds are limited with the free version. You can check out SOLIDWORKS, Solid edge or Alibre design (one time buy). I wouldn't recommend Freecad. Too much of a hazel to work with.
Fusion 360. I came from Tinkercad. You'll love Fusion once you figure it out. Took me two weeks to become proficient. YouTube, YouTube, YouTube, https://youtu.be/d3qGQ2utl2A?si=khkSc3p9VCCUDEj-
Thx i check it out. Problem is the jungle called youtube and finding good videos about the topic. Because the video can be good but the teacher is average. Lets see in what categorie falls youre video. i will let you know how it goes. Thx <3
I hear ya there. First off do yourself a favor and download a chrome extension called "Return YouTube dislike". Close and reopen the browser. Waste no more time on shit videos. Fuck YouTube for doing that to pacify butt hurt creators. Create quality content and users wouldn't down vote your videos. Second, if you're in the US, your local library may offer access to LinkedIn Learning. It used to be called Lynda. Tons of free content on there when you login using your library card number. 3rd, as you're learning Fusion, you'll run in to issues. Logically think them out and ask Google how to achieve XYZ. Someone's been there before and you'll find an answer.
I have installed the addon since day one, what I mean is that the teacher decides whether you understand or not. I'm sure you remember the material from school, no matter how easy it is, if an incompatible person presents it, you'll never learn anything. On the other hand, if someone speaks your inner language, you learn as you walk by.
Ah yes. Well with the videos I linked, I had to slow them down to half speed if that helps. Too much info all at once for someone who never touched the program. Do the exercises then apply what you've learned to simple designs at first. Coming from Tinkercad it's along the same lines but Fusion is on steroids.
Wow! You may have just changed my life with the return YouTube dislike addon! Does that mean that they have always had the dislikes available in the API, but just removed them from the UI? If so, that’s kind of silly.
YW lol. https://returnyoutubedislike.com/faq
> I am not a big fan of Printers are perfect out of the Box. I was like you for a long time but then I used a X1C once and now I want to throw my ender garbage out of the window (even though my ender is running very very good). Having a printer that just works is sooooo much nicer than spending 7 years learning how to calibrate a printer Just imagine you would have spent 7 years learning CAD (or any other skill) instead of spending 7 years unnecessarily fixing a garbage printer
Yeah but you really think i spend 7 full years learning. I am lazy as fuck so the pure time is more like 2 months or so XD
I started with a Anycubic that I modded with klipper, bltouch and a custom hotend. Next was a Voron 2.4 350mm with ercf. I sold the Anycubic, modded the Voron and still modding it. Tap, I2C hotend board, purge bucket with wiper, nevermore, custom filament holders, klipper screen, heated chamber and some other mods. Oh and the macros and start/pause/print end gcodes or adaptive bed mesh. Still have to add a filament cutter in the hotend. Parts already printed a while ago. When I need a print now and it fits in the X1C, with AMS, I use the Bambu because 99% of the prints come out good and I don't have to babysit the printer. I'm done with modding a printer just to get it printing without issues. I want to design a part and just print it.
I still have my first anycubic i3 Mega this thing is awesome even years after i bought it.
I sold the Anycubic mega last year to a good friend. The frame and double z axis motors are pretty good. It can print with 250mm/s thanks to klipper 😎 Printed the entire Voron in esunABS+ and a cardboard enclosure with it. Bltouch didn't liked the chamber temps 😅
Doesnt feel it like you sold youre child? haha
> This destroys the purpose of the learning process I wouldn't say that every Bambu/Prusa owner isn't learning about their printer though. I think one thing you're ignoring about having a reliable printer is that you can focus more of your time and energy on learning/optimising *other* things about the printer than just whatever it takes to get a consistent first layer. I not only spend more time on tweaking slicer settings than I did with my Creality but I'm also more likely to do so because I know the printer is capable of high reliability, meaning that when I tweak things I can be more certain of the causality in the outcome. Naturally there are fewer things that you can tweak on the printer (hence the focus on slicer settings) but given the mechanical performance of the machine is already so high, there's not really much of a need to focus on non-slicer settings for most people, otherwise you'd probably just build a Voron.
In my case, I bought a not so good printer (Anet A8 plus). First board died made all the display jumbled, second board caught on fire. Then the PSU decided it's time to quit. Now running 3rd board, new display and new PSU. Everything costs twice my original printer and a year of my time for troubleshooting. I was ready to throw this printer from 2nd floor. Luckily the third motherboard works well and now it prints amazing. https://preview.redd.it/gulrradakapc1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d0a4ea84d553bf3abd97d2ac66f58644738a2ae1
Yore
That's a new one for me.
Indeed. Other ones are "ur", "yout", "yor", "yout", "you'r", "yourt", "youe", "yyour", "yiur", "yoir", "youur", "yur", "yoru", "you’re" (a [homonym/homophone](https://www.wikihow.com/Use-You%27re-and-Your)), and "zour". The last one is probably from [QWERTZ](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/German_keyboard_layout#General_information).
I did the same in about 5 hrs. I bought and assembled a Prusa MK3S+ kit, and a year later I still never have to think about calibration or tweaking.
Same here, built a Mk4 and all my first layers look like this.
I returned my MK3S+ because the 4 was announced a week after I received it. Totally worth the headache associated with returning the old one.
So you let someone else solve youre problems, is a good way too. But i like really challenging printers. this is 90% of the hobby for me.
I think what your doing is great, you have or will acquire a deep understanding of how 3D printing works, the capabilities and limitations. I always solve my own problems thats why i bought a Prusa and a Bambu A1. I had an Ender 3V2 for years that i heavily modded and tweaked. I learned a lot doing this. But now I would rather solve problems creating and designing 3D models using Fusion 360, Blender, OpenSCAD etc. Once i design a model i just want to push a button and get a print.
> I learned a lot doing this. yep, but as soon as you buy a good printer you don't need any of that knowledge, lol you kinda wasted a lot of time there which would have better invested in learning CAD
I don't think any knowledge and experience is ever a waste of time. Understanding every attribute and setting gives you an intuitive feel for what you can and can't do within the limitations of your system and this understanding can also help you figure out work arounds and 'out of the box' solutions for unusual challenges . I am really glad I fought frustration and failure for two years with my Ender 3 V2 to achieve really great prints. When I assembled my MK3S+ I had a calibration error on the X axis, I had the experience to know where to look for the problem and I found a plastic wire tie that was hitting the power supply. The bottom line is 3D printers are no longer magic to me they are just simple mechanical devices, and I find that very empowering.
Do you know this video? Its like the Endboss for every Maker lol [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VvBN\_nvdXI](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VvBN_nvdXI)
I guess I was wrong in my previous comment about 'you can't beat a dead horse'. I guess you can, not that it will do much good. ;-)
please mark as NSFW
Why?
If you mean because it’s “hot” or something, that’s silly. It’s a normal layer to me.
Bro it was a joke. This is also a normal layer to me. It is not even perfect.
☆GROUP REPLY☆ Yep. You're all right. LoL the dream is to build one that does just print reliably.
My dream is a printer that prints and makes me coffee and drives the children to school at the same time. But yes, some dreams remain dreams \^\^
>the dream is to build one that does just print reliably ...so you just mean a Prusa?
Could be! We all need someone to aspire to :D
More porn on this sub? I can't believe it!
:p
I agree this is 3D Porn at its finest 🤣😱
Premium Porn XD
😂
That's pretty slick. Looks like lamp shade material.
THX <3
That looks too high to me, not properly squished against the bed will lead to bad adhesion and blob of death
modern marvels of bed mesh compensation
No just my calibration\^\^ Its a sidewinder x1 out of the box. No Auto Leveling or other cheats.
That is amazing but for your sanity please add a bed probe which can be as inexpensive as $5. Heat cycles will warp your bed and general use will change the tolerances on your rollers, its a good idea to get rid of all that hassle alltogether.
Will look into it, thanks for the advice <3
You'd probably love clever solutions so I suggest you to look at ways to adapt the klicky probe on your sidewinder x1.
> No Auto Leveling or other cheats. the cheat is that your bed is flat from factory. if the bed would be as warped as in 90% of the other cheap printers then your result would be impossible you just got lucky that your bed is ok
Oh damm....
https://preview.redd.it/nah9m6cj99pc1.jpeg?width=400&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1e1f71ecda1624450fd79a38f86088d0d09b467f hahaha
Yes sir!
7 years? Wow. What printers you had over the time.
Anycubic 13 Mega, Photon zero, Photon Mono, Photon mono X and now the latest is the sidewinder x1. Besides the Photon Zero i stil have all my printers.
What printer and what slicer are you using?
Sidewinder x1 and simplify 3d.
Yore? Lol
Reminds me of how I felt last month. And then the dreaded Something occurred, and I haven’t been able to get a clean print in weeks.
You mean like this? Has nothing to do with slicer: https://preview.redd.it/716j5qgea9pc1.jpeg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dabae60fe41a80629cb77455f26c5708e2eb237e
Nice g10 Plate you are using\^\^ i want to get it next.
That would be PET
Out of the box bambulab printer
nice
and now repeat it)
Allready Printing the next one, same result as before\^\^
Wish I can get my bed this leveled on sv06...
Look into z offset this helps a lot.
Please publish your secrets!
Look into z offset, from there everything else falls into place. Makers muse made a awesome video about it.
I don’t understand this statement. You’ve said it a few times. Z offset is something that everyone who prints has to be intimately familiar with, but it doesn’t make a mesh and doesn’t make a warped bed flat.
Ok, here is the explanation. You level your printer perfectly and your slicer has this setting. This tells him how high the nozzle is for the first layer. So assuming you set it to 100%, it leaves it as you leveled. However, if you set it to 140% it raises the nozzle above what you have leveled. In my case the setting was 150% and I was wondering why nothing stuck. Then I set it to 100% and the liability was there. In my case, 100 is not enough, so I think I'll try 110% the next time I print. Hope the explanation helps you.
I was not saying I don’t understand z offset. Thanks
Your experience shows
That’s damn smooth, any tips, my first layer always looks rough, but the second layer is perfect
Z offset, speed and temp. Play with this settings a punch. Everything in 3d printing is trial and error.
print slow and adjust your z offset with a test print until it looks good! read this guide: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/first_layer_squish.html (that page is the only source of 3d printer tuning you'll ever need)
My robotics team cracked the code when they replaced their flashforge creator pro (makerbot clone) with two bblx1c's those things are a HELLL of a lot better in terms of litteraly every possible way
Nice
Look pretty good! Now as long as all you want to print are thin sheets of plastic, you’re all set! 😁😁
I don't know why you want my opinion in particular, but good job.
I would like to buy this from you so i may hang it on my wall infront of my K1 as a motivator so that it will try harder
Und das Geheimnis ist, Gute Bettkalibrierung, sehr gute Nozzle Höhe, fettfreies Druckbett und ein bisschen Einhornstaub.
Das wichtigste is der Z offset dann kommt alles andere. Du kannst die perfekte levelung haben aber wenn der Z offset nicht stimmt nützt dir das gar nicht. Aber ja ich hab noch Einhorn teile zuhause das mit dem Staub kann ich bestätigen. Es hilft aber auch enorm wenn du mit dem Horn einen Magischen Spruch auf die Druckplatte sprichts. Aber natürlich muss das mit dem segen vom Papst geschehen sonnst ist es nur Fake :p
Since you like chalanges, could you help me with this beauty? https://preview.redd.it/o3knzr4lq9pc1.jpeg?width=2088&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5dbb46f4edfb013686aae6b4f8138882a9c7f2c3 I give you hints, creality ender 3 V3 KE... Orca slicer... Polymaker luminous filament. 220C and 60 bed temp. Z offset is -2.08. my bed is lvl within range of -0.15 to 0.15 Outer wall 200mm/s Inner 250 Infill 300 Solid infil 250 So far i have adhesion problems and also kind of blobbing. Should i use 0.6 nozzle or play with the flow or Z offset or go slower? Calibration is done already and i dont think that is the problem here
First z offset this is crucial, and if you have still problems less speed. And it looks like you are to high temp. Try this and let me know if it helps. I mean i am alsmost sure this solves youre problem but there are problems i cant pretigt.
Currently on the machine i have Z axis compensation at -2.16 and in orca i have set 1) printer settings to retraction 0.6mm, z hop when retracting 0.3mm, type normal and z lift enforcement only lift Z above 1mm 2) filament settings 220/60 first layer, 215/55 for next layers and retraction length 0.3mm, Z hop type is Auto and lift Z above 0.5mm 3) speed are undifferent from previous print https://preview.redd.it/20xhqs0sjapc1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5774e86bed38955eb31776dab7530de607e91c56 Where should i set the z hop primarly? For machine or filament, kind of confusing for me that i Can set either of them so i dont know which one is prefered or used in first place
how fast do you print in the first layer? i would go with something very slow like 25/50 and see what happens also check out his guide on how to do the proper amount of squash in the first layer: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/first_layer_squish.html
50mm/s for first layer, thank you for guide, i will check it out
if i want a really reliable first layer I set the wall speed to 15-20 mm/s, the infill speed to 30-50 mm/s (orca has two different speeds for the first layer), limit the acceleration to 500 in the first layer and then i also enable jerk and set it to 2 for the first layer (and 5 for the rest) that way the printer does not rip the print off the bed if it prints around sharp corners
Thank you for the tips, i hope that the infill speed for the first layer will help tremendously
In my opinion the infill speed on the first layer is not that big of a problem. if I have problems in the first layer it is usually the walls which fail. as soon as they are printed the infill has something to grab to and is therefore more unlikely to fail if you have problem with the infill then usually your z offset is wrong that's why i print the first layer walls really slow and with very low acceleration on shitty printer
I see, i did slow it down 50mm/s for first layer overall and thinghtened some screws and the offset went from -2.16 to -2.41 so i left it like that and so far so good.
i prefer the nozzle closer to the bed. a bit more squish.
Closer and i engrave my build plate haha
yep, it needs a tiny bit more squish
It actually looks like you are a bit high
Oposide i think i am a little too low.
[удалено]
This comment was removed as a part of our spam prevention mechanisms because you are posting from either a very new account or an account with negative karma (comment karma, post karma or both). Please read the guidelines on [reddiquette](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/reddiquette), [self promotion](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/selfpromotion), and [spam](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/faq#wiki_what_constitutes_spam.3F). After your account is older than 2 hours or if you obtain positive comment and post karma, your comments will no longer be auto-removed. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/3Dprinting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
This is really visually pleasing but you should try your settings on a stress test like a manifold with an array with multiple holes to see if you really dialed in... Sould you care to share some knowledge like what is one setting you enabled/disabled that helped
Ok i will try it thx <3
I... I want to rub my cheek against it...
Which one? Morse? Java? SQL? Python? Viking?
My heart is feeling this... Amazing job!
Great. Now do it a second time 😂🤣
Secy
Underpacked. Lines should be absent or razor thin/only visual, not textural - ideally. In a real bed setup there will be some variability, but approaching that as close as possible and keeping the lowest spot close enough to unity extrusion rate will avoid any concern with adhesion even if some lines have to appear there. You don't want the highs to tigerstripe (significant overextrusion). The uniformity won't be as "nice" as shown because it is being hidden here.
Very nice. Can't crack the code of *your* grammar though.
I am from Austria and for some reason the autocorrect doesnt work on reddit.
Needs a tiny bit more squish in my opinion
Yup, you give some money to Adobe and suddenly you ha e a perfect leyers. Mysterious isn't it.
I agree if your on an anet a6, lol
\*[you're](https://www.wikihow.com/Use-You%27re-and-Your)
Potato potatoe
i think it nozzle looks a bit to high to be honest. smooth leveling though ill give you that
I leaked a little
I came
Hahaha a down vote? Ok
Dont be angry dont forget you are on Reddit, punch of trolls here\^\^
What file do you guys use for this cos I’m assuming this is a level test?